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Publications of the Canadian Archives — No. 4- 
 
 JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 1847-48 
 
 ALEXANDER HUNTER MURRAY 
 
 EDITRn WITH NOTES BY 
 
 L. J. BURPEE, P.R.G.S. 
 
 Published by authority of the Minister of Agriculture 
 under the direction of the Archivist 
 
 OTTAWA 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU" 
 1910 
 3448-1 
 
A JOURNAL OF THE YUKON IN 1848 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Alexander Hunter Murray, the author of this Journal, waa 
 born at Kilmun, Argyllshire, Scotland, in the year 1818. He 
 emigrated to the United States as a young man, and joined the 
 American Fur Company, with which he remained for several 
 yeai^s. His service with the American Fur Company must have 
 taken him pretty far afield, as witness his familiar references 
 to Balize, Lake Pontchartrain, and the Eed Eiver of Texas, in 
 the present Journal. In the spring of 1846, accompanied by 
 the late Mr. Brazeau (afterward of Edmonton), he found his 
 way from the Missouri to Fort Garry, where he entered the 
 service of the Htldson's Bay Company as a senior clerk. He 
 was appointed to the Mackenzie Eiver District, under Chief 
 Factor Murdoch McPherson, and set forth almost immediately 
 for his post in the extreme north. His way lay by Lake Winni- 
 peg and the Saskatchewan to Cumberland House; thence by 
 I'rog portage to the Churchill, and by Methye portage (famous 
 in the annals of the fur trade) to the river and lake Athabaska. 
 Descending Slave river to Great Slave lake, he entered the 
 mighty Mackenzie, and reported to the head of his department 
 at Fort Simpson. Some where on his journey — perhaps at Fort 
 Chipewyan, on Lake Athabaska — ^he had had the good fortune 
 to meet the daughter of Chief Trader Colin Campbell, of the 
 Athabaska District. After a brief courtship, they were married 
 a la contract, by Chief Factor McPherson — there being no 
 clergy so far north at that time. Murray and his young wife 
 spent their honeymoon desceriding the Mackenzie, a long and, 
 under the circumstances, no doubt delightful journey. Finally 
 they reached the mouth of Peel river, and turned up to Fort 
 McPherson, where they wintered. 
 
 In the early spring Murray took his wife over the moun- 
 tains to Lapierre House, on Bell river. Eeturning to Fort 
 McPherson, he made all preparations for the important journey 
 3448—1 
 
CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 described in this Journal. Leaving the fort on June 11, 1847, 
 he reached Lapierre House three days later. On the 18th he 
 embarked v^ith his men in the Pioneer, a stout river-boat built 
 at Lapierre for the expedition, and set forth to the v^estward, 
 his wife remaining at Lapierre. Murray's object was to build a 
 post on the Yukon, a practicable route to which had been dis- 
 covered three years before by Chief Trader John Bell. Bell, 
 after exploring Peel river in' 1839, and building Fort McPher- 
 son in 1840, had crossed the mountains to wh^t was then known 
 as Eat river — ^later named Bell, in honour of its discoverer. 
 Descending this stream to its junction with a larger river known 
 as the Porcupine, he explored the latter to some where about the 
 present international boundary — three days' journey down 
 stream. This was in 1842. Two years afterward he completed 
 his exploration of the Porcupine to its mouth. The natives 
 informed him that the great river into which the Porcupine 
 emptied was called the Yukon — or Youcon, as the traders 
 spelled it. As a result of this journey, it was decided to estab- 
 lish a post on the Yukon, near the mouth of the Porcupine, and, 
 as already mentioned, Murray was entrusted with this impor- 
 tant task. 
 
 Descending Bell river to the Porcupine, Murray reached tlie 
 Yukon, June 25, and, after some difficulty, found a suitable 
 site for his fort, about three miles above the mouth of the Por- 
 cupine, on the east bank of the Yukon. Thenceforward his 
 journal is devoted t6 a detailed narrative of the building of Fort 
 Yukon, and the visits of parties of, Indians from up and down 
 the river. Of these he offers us a lively description, and seems 
 to have missed no opportunity of questioning -them as to the 
 character of their country, the fur-bearing and other animals 
 found there, and the language, manners and customs of 
 the inhabitants — all of which is duly recorded in his journal. 
 After spending the winter at Fort Yukon, Murray left June 
 5, 1848, for Lapierre House, with the ' returns ' of the new 
 establishment. He rejoined his wife at Lapierre House June 
 23, having been absent a little over a year. 
 
 Here his present journal ends, but a few words may be 
 added as to his subsequent career, for which, as well as for the 
 particulars of his life previous to the Yukon journey, the 
 
JOURNAL 03? THE YUKON 3 
 
 editor is mainly indebted to Mr. Roderick MacFarlane, of Win- 
 nipeg, formerly Chief Factor iii the service of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. Mr. Murray seems to have returned to Fort Yukon 
 the same year, taking his wife with him. In 1850 he accom- 
 panied Robert Campbell (of whom something will be said later) 
 to Lapierre House; and the following year finally left Fort 
 Yukon, returning to Fort Simpson on the Mackenzie, where he 
 spent the winter. In the autumn of 1852 he reached Fort 
 Garry with his wife, and several children, who had been born to 
 them in the north country. Murray spent the succeeding winter 
 at Fort Pembina (now Emerson), of which he had charge for 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, for several years, after which he 
 was appointed to the management of the district of Lac la 
 Pluie, or Rainy Lake, and Swan River. Returning to Pembina, 
 he was promoted to a Chief Tradership in 1856. The following 
 year, being in poor health, he made a trip to Scotland, whare, 
 curiously enough, he met Joseph James Hargrave, who a few 
 years later was himself to become a resident of Fort Garry. 
 When Hargrave came out in 1861, one of the first men he met 
 on the banks of the Red river was Murray. The meeting took 
 place at the little settlement of Georgetown, to which Hargrave 
 had travelled overland from the south, on his way to Fort Garry. 
 ' After supper I went for a stroll,' he says in his " Red 
 River." ' Before we had proceeded fifteen yards I observed 
 symptoms of occupancy about a house in the village which had 
 during my short residence been shut up and uninhabited. On 
 inquiry, 1 learned the house was the residence of the local 
 representative of the Hudson's Bay Company, Chief Trader 
 Murray, who had that afternoon arrived on board the steamer, 
 accompanied by his family and servants ; and as we passed his 
 gate we encountered that gentleman himself standing at the 
 entrance to the inclosure before his house smoking his evening 
 pipe. On hearing my name Mr. Murray greeted me as an old 
 acquaintance, but I ridiculed the idea, till he mentioned the 
 fact of my having one morning walked to the Waverley Bridge 
 Railway Station in Edinburgh along with him, when I at once 
 remembered the circumstance as having occurred in 1857, after 
 a night which Mr. Murray passed in the house where I lived 
 at the time. I accounted for my forgetfulness by assuring the 
 3148— li 
 
4 CANADIAN- ARCHIVES 
 
 gentleman that his European trip of 1857 had answered its 
 health-restoring purpose so well that I would fail to recognize 
 
 the Edinburgh invalid in him We seated ourselves in 
 
 a small porch, the walls of which were adorned with guns, shot- 
 belts, and other implements of the chase, artistically hung, and 
 Mr. Murray entered into full details relating to certain parts 
 
 of the world he had visited His own experience in 
 
 Rupert's Land had been great and long continued — ^but the 
 adventure on which he most prided himself, evidently, was his 
 having founded the most remote post of the company, Eort 
 Youcon, in Russian America, situated within one or two degrees 
 of the Arctic circle.' Lewis H. Morgan had accompanied Har- 
 grave from St. • Paul, gathering material for his great work, 
 ' Systems of Consanguinity and Affinity of the Human Family,' 
 and while at Georgetown obtained valuable assistance from 
 Murray in the filling out of his elaborate schedules of relation- 
 ship, for several of the northwestern tribes. 
 
 About this time Murray was given charge of Lower Fort 
 Garry, where he spent several seasons. He retired from the 
 service of the company in 186Y, and spent the remaining years 
 of his life in quiet leisure on the banks of the Red river. For 
 a time he made bis home in a cottage below Lower Fort Garry, 
 which he named ' Kilmun,' after his birthplace. Later he 
 moved south a few miles to ' Bellevue,' where he died, in 1874, 
 at the age of fifty-six, leaving several sons and daughters, some 
 of whom are still living. His eldest son, Alexander Campbell 
 Murray (born 1859), is, or was a few years ago, in charge of 
 Fort St. James, in JSTorthern British Columbia, for the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company. He entered the company's service in 
 1876. (Morice's "Northern Interior of British Columbia," 
 332). 
 
 To return to the Journal, although not recording an original 
 exploration, it is of interest from more than one point of view. 
 It is the earliest detailed description we have of much of the 
 ground covered ; it affords very full information as to the man- 
 ners and customs of the Indians of the Yukon, at the time when 
 British fur-traders first went among them; it records the estab- 
 lishment of what might be called the extreme outpost of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company; and, finally, it throws an exceedingly 
 interesting sidelight upon the policy and methods of the fur 
 
JOUKJSIAL Of the YUKON 5 
 
 trade. The principal objects of the journey Avere the building 
 of Fort Yukon, and the opening up of trade with the tribes of 
 the Yukon country. This brought the H. B. men into what 
 was then Russian territory, and into competition and possible 
 conflict with the Russian- American ^ Company — as to which 
 Murray has a good deal to say. That the Russians did not, 
 as Murray evidently expected, attempt to drive him back on to 
 British territory, may have been due, to some extent, to the 
 fact that the Russian- American Company was on the point of 
 arranging with the Hudson's Bay Company a renewal of the 
 profitable Agreement of February 6, 1839. It was probably, 
 however, primarily due to the uncertainty on the part of the 
 Russians as to the new fort being on Russian or British terri- 
 tory. On the other hand, Murray was perfectly aware, and so 
 admits frankly in his narrative, that he was building on Rus- 
 sian territory. The explanation of this geographical ignorance 
 on the one side, and knowledge on the other, is simply this : the 
 Russians, as will presently appear, bad never been as far up the 
 river as the mouth of the Porcupine, and consequently had only 
 the vague reports of natives to guide them; while Murray 
 had not only explored the ground, from the opposite direction, 
 but, having the benefit of Sir John Franklin's observations for 
 longitude on the Mackenzie, was able to take that as a base 
 and reach at least an approximate estimate as to the position 
 of the boundary. As will be seen in his narrative, he was some- 
 what out in his calculations. Still, there was no manner of 
 doubt as to the mouth of the Porcupine being well within 
 Russian territory. Murray seems to have deliberately invaded 
 the ground of his rivals, though he had no shadow of right 
 to either build or carry on trade west of the boundary. It was 
 all in the game of the fur trade, and that game was a rough- 
 and-tumble affair at the best. It is possible, though improbable, 
 that Murray was not aware of the terms of the Agreement of 
 1839, expressly prohibiting such an establishment. The second 
 article of that Agreement (repeated word for word in the 
 renewal of 1849) reads: It is further agreed that the Hudson's 
 Bay Company shall not trade with the Indians nor receive in 
 trade or barter nor hunt any furs or peltries on any part of the 
 Russian, territory on the northwest coast or islands than that 
 ceded to them under the provisions of the foregoing article.' 
 
CANADIAIT AECHIVES 
 
 As the territory so ceded or leased was confined to the strip 
 between Cape Spencer and Portland Canal, it was a clear breach 
 of the Agreement to build a post and carry on trade on the 
 Yukon within Russian territory. Nevertheless the Hudson's 
 Bay Company retained possession of Eort Yukon, and carried 
 on their trade there, with or without the consent of the Russian 
 American Company, until the sale of Alaska to the United 
 States, when they were peremptorily ejected. Captain Charles 
 W. Raymond visited Fort Yukon in 1869, on behalf of the 
 United States governmment. ' On the 9th of August, at 12 
 a.m.,' he says (" Report of a reconnaissance of the Yukon River, 
 1871," p. 16) ' I notified the representative of the Hudson Bay 
 Company that the station is in the territory of the United 
 States ; that the introduction of trading goods, or any trade by 
 foreigners with the natives, is illegal, and must cease; and 
 that the Hudson Bay Company must vacate the buildings as 
 soon as practicable. I then took possession of the buildings and 
 raised the fiag of the United States over the fort.' 
 
 The Hudson's Bay Company thereupon abandoned the post, 
 and moved up the Porcupine river to the Ramparts, where they 
 built Rampart House, a little to the east of 142°. The astro- 
 nomical position of the fort not then being known, and there 
 existing some doubt as to its lying within British territory, it 
 was moved twelve miles up the river, to what was supposed to 
 be undoubtedly the eastern side of long. 141° — the inter- 
 national boundary. That the true position of the new Rampart 
 House remained in doubt up to a quite recent date appears, 
 however, from the Canadian Geological Survey map, 1890, 
 accompanying R. G. McConnell's " Report on an exploration in 
 the Yukon and Mackenzie Basins " (Annual Report of the Geo!. 
 Survey, IST.S., vol. iv), where it is shown on the United States 
 side of the boundary, in fact west of long. 141° 30'. J. H. 
 Turner, of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, who 
 made a survey of the Porcupine on the American side, in 1889, 
 found Rampart House to be in lat. 67° 08' !N"., and long. 141° 
 46^' W., ' nearly twenty miles west of the boiindary.' As a 
 result of these surveys, the Hudson's Bay Company in 1890 
 again moved Rampart House — this time to what was un- 
 questionably Canadian territory. 
 
 As to the exploration of the Yukon river, and the extent to 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 7 
 
 which its discovery must be credited to the Russians, it does 
 jiot appear possible to accept Murray's statements, in spite of the 
 fact that he was on the ground, and could not have had the 
 remotest reason for exaggerating the claims- of his trade rivals. 
 Dall, Petroff, Baker, and Whymper, all of whom went care- 
 fully into this question, and had at their command the original 
 narratives of Russian explorers, agree that the Russians did not 
 in any event ascend the river above the mouth of the Tanana. 
 Ivan Petroff, in his " Report on the Population, Industries and 
 Resources of Alaska," says that Gl^zunof explored the Tukon 
 (then called the Kvikhpak) as far as Nulato, in 1836. Marcus 
 Baker, in his Geographic Dictionary of Alaska, gives 1837-38 
 as the date of this first exploration, and says that in the latter 
 year Malakof built a blockhouse at IsTulato. Elsewhere the date 
 of this establishment is given as 1839. It was burned by the 
 natives, and rebuilt in 1841. !N"ulato is about four hundred 
 miles above the mouth of the river. In June, 1843, Zagoskin, 
 of . the Russian ITavy, explored the river for some distance 
 above Wulato, in fact, as far as the mouth of the Nowikakat. 
 Here the hostile attitude of the natives compelled him to turn 
 back. He afterward published a voluminous journal of his 
 travels in the valleys of the Tukon and Kuskovim. The Nowika- 
 kat seems to have been the extreme point reached by the Russians 
 at the time of Murray's journey. Some time after the building 
 of Fort Yukon, Russian traders ascended the river to Nuklu-' 
 kayet on the west bank, a few miles below the mouth of the Tan- 
 ana. Dall (" Alaska and its resources," 276-7) is of the opinion 
 that this did not take place until about 1860 ; but A. H. Brooks, 
 of the United States Geological Survey, thinks it probable that 
 the date was about 1850. In any event, it was after, not before, 
 Murray's visit, and the point then reached was still a long way 
 below Fort Tukon. In a letter dated October 24, 1908, to 
 the Geographer of the Department of the Interior, Mr. Brooks 
 says : ' The reason why the Russian traders never ascended the 
 river above ISTuklukayet is obvious — their clumsy boats would 
 be unmanagable in the swift water which prevails through much 
 of the Rampart region above. The same point seems to have 
 been reached by the Hudson Bay traders, who descended the 
 river from Fort Yukon foi- the purpose of barter with the 
 natives. [This was, of course, after 1837.] If any confirma- 
 
8 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 tory evidence were needed that the Russians were familiar with 
 the Yukon as far as the mouth of the Tanana, it would be 
 found in the fact that the lower Tanana natives have included 
 a large number of Russian words in their vocabulary. As it is 
 known that they did not descend the Yukon, they must have 
 acquired these by contact with the Russian traders at the mouth 
 of the Tanana.'* 
 
 In view of this evidence, it does not seem possible to accept 
 Murray's statements, positive though they are, that the Rus- 
 sians had explored the Yukon, not only to the mouth of the 
 Porcupine, but even to the headwaters of the Yukon, before 
 John Bell or Robert Campbell appeared on the scene. Mur- 
 ray's information was obtained from the natives, through an 
 interpreter, and it is probable that he, or they, may have 
 unwittingly credited to the Russians the explorations which 
 Campbell had been carrying forward on the Liard and Pelly 
 rivers. In any event, Murray's evidence camiot be accepted as 
 sufficiently conclusive to take from Campbell the honour of dis- 
 covering and exploring the Yukon from its upper waters to the 
 mouth of the Porcupine. 
 
 The narrative of Campbell's explorations is contained in a 
 pamphlet, " The Discovery and Exploration of the Youcoji 
 [Pelly] River," piTbli^hed at Winnipeg, in 1885, and this is 
 supplemented by information obtained from Mm by the late 
 Dr. George ^I. Dawson, and embodied in the latter's " Report on 
 an Exploration in the Yukon District " (Geol. Survey Report, 
 IST.S., Vol. III). Erom these sources it appears that in May, 
 1840, Campbell left Fort Halkett, on the Lower Liard, and 
 ascended that river to a lake which he named Frances, in honour 
 of Lady Simpson. Shouldering blankets and guns, Campbell 
 and his men ascended the valley of a river which they traced 
 to its source in a lake named by him Finlayson's. From here he 
 struck across to the Pelly, so named by Campbell in honour of 
 Governor Pelly of the Hudson's Bay Company. In 1842 Fort 
 
 * ' The sketch of the river below the mouth of the Porcupine (on 
 Arrowsmith's 1854 map) appears to have been due to the Hudson Bay 
 Company's traders, who, before Campbell had communicated his geo- 
 graphical information in London, in 1853, had already met the Russian 
 traders at the mouth of the Tanana. Much later, in 1863, I. S. Lukeen, 
 of the Russian Trading Company, ascended the river to the Hudson Bay 
 post. Fort Yukon, at tlje mouth of the Porcupine.' — G. M. Dawson. 
 "Vukon District," Geol. Survey, 1887-8. 
 
JOURNAL 01? THE YUKON 9 
 
 Pelly Banks was built, and in June of the following year Camp- 
 bell descended the Pelly to the mouth of a stream which he 
 named the Lewes, after John Lee Lewes, of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, when the hostility of the natives forced him to turn 
 back. In June, 1848, he returned and built a fort at the 
 confluence of the Pelly and Lewes rivers, which he named 
 Fort Selkirk. Two years later he continued his exploration of 
 the Yukon down to Port Yukon, where Murray was still 
 stationed, and with him ascended the Porcupine, to Lapierre 
 House. Crossing the mountains to Port McPherson, he finally 
 ascended the Mackenzie and reached Fort Simpson — to the 
 astonishment of the officers of the post, the belief never having 
 been entertained that the Pelly and the Yukon were one and 
 the same river, and that a water communication existed from 
 the Mackenzie up the Liard, down the Pelly and Yukon, and up 
 the Porcupine to Mackenzie waters again. 
 
 After the establishment of Fort Yukon in 1847, and Camp- 
 bell's demonstration of the fact that the Porcupine furnished 
 an easier road to the Yukon country than that by way of the 
 Liard, the Porcupine became the regular trade route from the 
 Mackenzie to the Yukon posts. Nothing in the way of geo- 
 graphical knowledge was, however, added to tht meagre records 
 of Bell's exploration, until 1888, when E. G. McConnell, of the 
 Geological Survey, went over the same ground covered by Bell 
 and later by Murray. A detailed account of this journey is 
 given in his " Report on an Exploration in the Yukon and 
 Mackenzie Basins," Geol. Survey, IST.S.' Vol. IV. 
 
 It is clear from this Journal, as well as from the statements 
 of Eoderick MacFarlane, who knew him intimately, that Mur- 
 ray was a man of education and taste, as well as a shrewd and 
 successful fur-trader. Not the least of his achievements was 
 the production of the series of spirited sketches accompanying 
 this Journal, drawn in the midst of engrossing duties, under 
 very difficult circumstances, and with no more effective appli- 
 ances than ' a few steel pens now going on their third year and 
 filed down to stumps.' Some of these sketches will at once be 
 familiar to readers of Sir John Richardson's " Arctic Searching 
 Expedition," where they are reproduced in colour. 
 
 Richardson carried on a correspondence with Murray, 
 several of whose letters are quoted in his book. He also makes 
 
10 OANADIAJSr ARCHIVES 
 
 constant use of the Journal, which was placed at his disposal at 
 Fort Simpson, by Chief Factor McPherson. According to 
 Richardson, Murray intended exploring a portioii of the Yukon 
 below the fort, in 1850. 'It was probably,' says Eichard- 
 son, ' the report of his party having been seen which induced 
 Captain CoUinson to land Lieutenant Barnard and Mr. Adams 
 at Fort Michaelowsky, that they might ascertain who the white 
 men were.' This exploration may have been carried out before 
 Murray left with Campbell for Lapierre House, in that year, 
 but no direct evidence is available, and the fact itself appears 
 questionable. 
 
 The following letters from Murray to Eichardson may 
 properly be inserted here, as supplementing the present Jour- 
 nal : — 
 
 In May, 1850, he writes from Fort Yukon: 'My account 
 of the course of this river, also a sort of chart I made of it from 
 the description given by the Indians, might perhaps lead yoTi 
 to have a wrong impression respecting the mouth of the river. 
 I am now convinced that it is not the same with the Colville, 
 and I have for some years suspected that its mouth lay to the 
 west. The Eussians have come up the lower part of the river 
 regularly for some seasons. I was at first informed that they 
 entered it from another river, but I am now told positively by 
 Indians who went down and met them last summer that they 
 come into it direct from the sea. By one of these Indians I 
 received a letter from the Eussians, which, being in their own 
 language, is unintelligible to me. Salmon and hook-nosed trout 
 (Salmo scouleri) ascend the river, but are not found in the Mac- 
 kenzie, or rivers falling into the Arctic sea. Again, I have 
 made frequent inquiries of the ' Gens du large,' or the northern 
 Indians, who visit the Arctic sea coast, and find that they are 
 unacquainted with the mouth of the river. For two winter 
 days' walking below the Porcujpine, the Yukon trends to the 
 west and southwest, and the natives say that it flows on in the 
 same direction. I am therefore inclined to believe that the Col- 
 ville is a smaller river, and that the Yukon empties its waters 
 into Xorton Soiind.' 
 
 In another letter, Murray gives the following interesting 
 isarticulars as to the arrivals of water foAvl in the. valley of the 
 Yukon : ' Of the two kinds of swan, only the largest sort 
 
JOUENAL OF THB ^UKOIf 11 
 
 {Cygnus buccinator) are seen here; they pass on to the north- 
 ward of the Porcupine river, to breed among the lakes. Bus- 
 tards (i.e. Canada geese) are plentiful, and breed everywhere, 
 from Council Bluffs on the Missouri to the vicinity of the Polar 
 sea. On the ramparts of Porcupine river they frequently build 
 high up among the rocks, where one would suppose only hawks 
 and ravens would have their nests. How they take their young 
 down is unknown to me, but they must be carried somehow. 
 Ravens and large gulls are very destructive to young geese. 
 With respect to the breeding quarters of the laughing geese 
 (Anser albifrons), I am able to inform you correctly, having 
 myself seen a few of their nests ; and, since the receipt of your 
 letter, made further inquiry among the northern Indians. 
 Their nests are built on the edges of swamps and lakes, through- 
 out most of the country north of the Porcupine, where the 
 ground is marshy. It is only near the most northerly bends of 
 that river that they are seen in the breeding season, and these 
 are male birds. They pass to their breeding places in the 
 beginning of June, and make their nests among long grass or 
 small bushes, where they are not easily seen. They are shy 
 birds when hatching; and, when any one comes near the nest, 
 manage to escape unperceived, and then show themselves at a 
 distance, and manoeuvre like grouse to lead the intruder away 
 from the place. Notwithstanding our ruthless habit of collect- 
 ing eggs of all kinds to vary our diet, I have often felt for a 
 laughing goose, whose anxiety for the safety of its eggs was 
 frequently the means of revealing to us the situation of its nest. 
 When the bird was swimming some hundreds of yards off, im- 
 mediately that any person in walking round the lake came near 
 • its treasure, the poor bird began to make short, impatient turns 
 in the water, resuming her calm demeanour if the intruder 
 passed the nest without seeing it. As soon as the eggs are taken, 
 the goose rises out of the water and flies close to the head of the 
 captor, uttering a frightened and pitiful cry. These geese are 
 more numerous in the valley of the Yukon than any other kind, 
 and the numbers that pass northwards there are perhaps equal 
 to that of all the other species together. The Gens du large 
 {N eyetse-hutcTiin) who visit the north coast regularly to traiSc 
 with the Eskimos, say that they have never seen any flying 
 northwards over the sea in. that quarter. White geese (snow 
 
12 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 geese, Chen myperioreus) are also passengers here, and there 
 are likewise black geese, which I presume you have never seen. 
 A few of them pass down Peel's river, hut they are more abun- 
 dant on the Yukon. They are very handsome birds, considerably 
 smaller than the white geese, and have a dark brown or brownish 
 black colour, with a white ring round the neck, the head and 
 bill having the shape of that of the bustard. (' This descrip- 
 tion,' says Richardson, ' applies pretty well to the brent goose, 
 Anser hernicla.') The black geese are the least numerous and 
 the latest that arrive here. They fly in large flocks with re- 
 markable velocity, and generally pass on without remaining, 
 as the others do, some days to feed. When they alight, it is 
 always in the water ; and if they wish to land, they swim ashore. 
 They are very fat, and their flesh has an oily and rather dis- 
 agreeable taste. Bustards, laughing geese, ducks, and large gulls 
 make their appearance here from the 2Yth to the 29th of April. 
 Snow geese and black geese about the 15th or 16th of May, 
 when the other kinds become plentiful. They have mostly 
 passed by the end of the month, though some, especially the 
 bustards, are seen in June. The white geese and black geese 
 breed only on the shores of the Arctic Sea. They return in 
 September and early in October, flying high, and seldom halt- 
 
JOUENAI, OF THE YUKON 13 
 
 Eichardson also obtained from Murray the following vocab- 
 ulary : — • 
 
 VOCABULARY OF THE KUTCHIN OF THE YUKON OR KUTCHI- 
 
 KUTCHI. 
 
 Drawn up by Mb. Murrat. 
 
 Animals. 
 English. Kutchin. 
 
 A bear so. 
 
 grizzly bear si-i. 
 
 beaver , se. 
 
 red fox na-kath. 
 
 black fox nakath-barhata-niliz-ze. 
 
 cross fox nakath-so. 
 
 white fox (arctic) etchi-a-thwi. 
 
 Canada lynx ni-itohi. 
 
 marten tsu-ko. 
 
 mink tchith-ei. 
 
 otter tsu-e. 
 
 musquash tzenn. 
 
 wolf zo . 
 
 hare (American) ' ke. 
 
 wolverine lekh-ethu-e. 
 
 seal.. . . .' nat-tchuk. 
 
 moose deer tin-djuke. 
 
 reindeer bet-zey. 
 
 goose . . kre. 
 
 swan ta-arr-zyne. 
 
 crane che-a. 
 
 duck tet-sun. 
 
 grouse akh-tail. 
 
 fish, a salmon tleukh-ko. 
 
 white-fish (Coregonus) tleukh-ko-tak-hei. 
 
 pike alle-ti-in. 
 
 blue-fish (grayling) rsi-tcha. 
 
 methy (Lota) ohe-tlukh. 
 
 Trading Goods. 
 
 An awl ; . . , tha. 
 
 An axe ta e. 
 
 Beads nak-kai-e. 
 
 A belt tho. 
 
 A blanket • . . .tselta. 
 
 A tobacco-box tseltrow-ti-ak. 
 
 Buttons yei-kai-thit-le. 
 
 A cap tsa-kol-u. 
 
 A bonnet tsa-til-ek-ha. 
 
 A capot or coat ik. 
 
 A duffle coat chai-ik. 
 
 A chisel so-itt-se 
 
 A comb tcheir-zug. 
 
 A dagger nil-ei-sho. 
 
 A file kuk-i. 
 
 Tape gartering lekath-at-hai-e. 
 
 A looking-glass mutchai-e-i-a. 
 
 A gun te-egga. 
 
 A gun-flint becn-tsi. 
 
 A gun-worm koggo-te. 
 
 Gunpowder .tegga-kon. 
 
14 CANADlAJSr ARCHIVES 
 
 VOCABULAR'S —Continued. 
 
 English. Kutchin. 
 
 Trading Goods. 
 
 A powder-horn a-ki-ibohe. 
 
 A kettle thi-a. 
 
 A knife r'si. 
 
 A ring .• ilat-thekk. 
 
 A shirt azii-e-i-ek. 
 
 A small shot tegga-atsil. 
 
 A ball tepga-atcho. 
 
 A fire-steel il-i-a. 
 
 Cloth athit-li. 
 
 Thread athit-li-itohi. 
 
 Tobacco se'ei-i-ti-it. 
 
 Trowsers illei-ik. 
 
 Vernlllion tingi-ta-tseikh. 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 A tree tetch-hau. 
 
 A willow kai-i. 
 
 Grass tlo. 
 
 The ground nunn. 
 
 Water tohu. 
 
 A river han. 
 
 A lake van. 
 
 Rain akh-tsin. 
 
 Warm konni-etha. 
 
 Cold konni-eka. 
 
 Hungry sei-ze-kwetsik. 
 
 Fatigued kei-a-sethelth-krei. 
 
 Sick eth-ill-seyk. 
 
 A mountain tha. 
 
 A valley kra-tanne. 
 
 The sun r'sey-e. . 
 
 The stars thun. 
 
 A rook tchi. 
 
 A house or fort izze. 
 
 A lodge or tent ni-ti-a. 
 
 A bow alt-heikh. 
 
 An arrow ki-e. 
 
 A canoe tri. 
 
 Good neir-zi. 
 
 Bad bets-he-te. 
 
 Day tzin. 
 
 Night tatha. 
 
 Sleep nokh-tchi. 
 
 Rest tuggath-illa-e. . 
 
 To sit tchith-u-etcha. 
 
 To walk ka-whot-el. 
 
 To run sha-tooha. 
 
 To shoot at-el-ke. 
 
 To kill beshei-en-i-eoha. 
 
 A man tenghi. 
 
 A woman tren-djo. 
 
 A boy tse-a. 
 
 A girl mitchet-ei. 
 
 A dog tleine. 
 
 A sled latchan-vultl. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 
 VOCXBVLARY-Conkuded. 
 
 English. Kdtchin. 
 
 1 tih-lagga. 
 
 2 nak-hei. 
 
 3 thi-eka. 
 
 4 Tan-na. 
 
 5 illa-kon-elei. 
 
 6 neckhki-et-hei. 
 
 7 ataitsa^newk-he. 
 
 8 nak-hei-etan-na. 
 
 9 nuntcha-niko. 
 
 10 tikh-lagga-chow-et-hi-en. 
 
 11 / tikh-lagga-mik-ki-tagga. 
 
 12 nak-hei-mikki-tagga. 
 
 13 thi-eka-mikki-tagga. 
 
 14 tanna-mikki-tagga. 
 
 15 ilakonelei-mikki-tagga'. ' 
 
 20 nak-how-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 21 nak-how-chow-ethi-in-unsla-tikh-lagga. 
 
 30 - : thi-eka-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 40 tanna-ha-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 50 atla-konelei-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 60 nikh-ki-at-hei-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 70 atait-ai. 
 
 80 nich-ki-etanna-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 HO muntcha-niko-ohow-ethi-en. 
 
 100 tikh-lagga-chow-ethi-en-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 200 . nak-kaggo-chow-ethi-en-ohow-ethi-en. 
 
 300 , . . thi-eka-Aow-ethi-en-chow-ethi-en. 
 
 The copy of Murray's Journal here reproduced was obtained ■ 
 by Dr. James Hannay, for the Dominion Archives, from Mr. 
 E. O. S. Schoefield, Legislative Librarian, Victoria, B.C. 
 
 The editor desires to express his acknowledgments to Mr. 
 James White, F.R.G.S., Dominion Geographer, for invaluable 
 assistance in identifying topographical points in Murray's nar- 
 rative. 
 
10 CANADIAN AECiriVES 
 
 BIBLIOGRAPHY. 
 
 Baker, Marcus Geographic dictionary of Alaska. Washington. 1906. 
 
 Bancroft, H. H History of Alaska. San Francisco. 1886. 
 
 Burroughs, J Alaska, its natives, birds, animals, trees, flowers, 
 
 resources. 1901. 
 Buschmann, J. C. E. .Systematische worttafel des athapaskischen sprach- 
 
 stamms. ... In Konigliche Akad. der Wiss. 
 
 zu Berlin, 1859, pt. 3, pp. 546-581. 
 See also his ' Die Volker und Sprachen im Innern 
 
 des britischen Nordamerika's,' same periodical. 
 
 1858, pp. 465-486. 
 
 Campbell, Eobert Discovery and exploration of the Youcon (Pelly) 
 
 river by the discoverer, Eobert Campbell. 
 F.E.G.S. Winnipeg. 1885. 
 
 Dall, W. H Alaska and its resources. Boston. 1870. 
 
 Alaska: the Harriman Alaska Expedition, &o. By 
 W. H. Dall and others. London. 1902. 
 
 Dawson, George M Eeport on an exploration in the Yukon district. 
 
 Geological Survey. N.S. Vol. III. 
 Gibbs, George Notes on the Tinneh or Chipewyan Indians of 
 
 British and Eussiau America. 1. The eastern 
 
 Tinneh, from a MS by Bernard B. Eoss. 2. 
 
 The Loucheux Indians, by William L. Hardisty. 
 
 3. The Kutchin tribes, by Strachan Jones. 
 
 Smithsonian Annual Report, 1866, pp. 303-327. 
 
 Hardisty, W. L Terms of relationship of the Kutchin or Louchieux. 
 
 In L. H. Morgan's ' Systems of Consanguinity 
 and Affinity,' pp. 293-382. 
 
 Hayes, C. W An expedition, through the Yukon district. National 
 
 Geog. Magazine. May, 1892. 
 
 Isbester, J. A On a short vocabulary of the Loucheux language. 
 
 Philological Society of London Proc, Vol. IV, 
 pp. 184-5. 
 
 Isbister, A. K Some account of Peel river. Journal of the Royal 
 
 Geog. Society, Vol. XV (1845), pp. 332-45. 
 
 Jackson, Sheldon Introduction of domestic reindeer into Alaska. 
 
 Washington. 1905. 
 
 Kennicott, E Kotch-a-Kutchin vocabulary. Words from the 
 
 language of the Kotch-a-Kutchin — the Indians of 
 Yukon river, at the mouth of the Porcupine 
 river. In F. Whymper's ' Travel and Adventure 
 in Alaska,' pp. 322-328. See also ' Biography of 
 Eobert Kennicott and extracts from his Journal,' 
 Chicago Acad, of Sciences Trans., Vol. I, 133-224. 
 
 Kirby, W. W A journey to the Youcon, Eussian America. 
 
 Smithsonian Annual Report, 1864, pp. 416-420. 
 
 Latham, R. G The ethnology of the British Colonies and Depen- 
 dencies. London. 1851. See also his ' Natural 
 History of the Varieties of Man ;' and ' Ele- 
 ments of Comparative Philology.' 
 
JOUEXAI, Or THE YUKOX 1( 
 
 McConnell, K. G Keport on au exploration in the Yukon and 
 
 Mackenzie basins. Oeological Survey, N.S., Vol. 
 IV. 
 
 Mncfarlaiie, E Notes on the mammals and birds of Northern 
 
 Canada. In Mair and Macfarlane's ' Through 
 the Mackenzie Basin.' Toronto. 1908. 
 
 Nelson, E. W Report \ipon natural history collections made in 
 
 Alaska. 1877-1881. Washington. 
 
 Ogilvie, Wm Exploratory survey of part of the Lewes, Tat-on- 
 
 Duc, Porcupine, &c. Interior Dept. Report, 
 1889, pt. VIII. 
 Geography and resources of the basin of the Yukon. 
 
 Royal Geog. Journal. Vol. XII, 21. 
 The Yukon District. Scottish Geog. Magazine, July, 
 1898. 
 
 Petitot, E. F Traditions indiennes du Canada nord-ouest. Paris 
 
 1886. 
 Traditions indiennes du Canada nord-ouest. Textes 
 originaux & traduction littfirale. Alenpon. 1888. 
 
 Petrofi, Iran Report on the population, industries and resources 
 
 of Alaska. Washington. 1884. 
 
 Pilling, J. C Bibliography of the Athapascan languages. Wash- 
 ington. 1892. 
 
 Raymond, Chas. W... Report of a reconnaissance of the Yukon river. 
 Washington. 1871. 
 
 Richardson, John Arctic Searching Expedition. London. 1851. 
 
 Ross, Bernard R Popular treatise on the fur-bearing animals of the 
 
 Mackenzie river district. Canadian Natura- 
 list, VI, Art. 2. See also his ' List of mammals, 
 birds and eggs observed in the Mackenzie river 
 district.' Ibid., VIL Art. 13. Ross's MS 
 vocabularies of the Kntoha Kutchin, Natsit 
 Kutchin, and Nehaunay Indians, are in the 
 Bureau of Ethnology, Washington. 
 
 Schwatka, P Report of a military reconnaissance in Alaska. 
 
 Washington. 1885. 
 Along Alaska's Great River. New York. 1885. 
 
 Sims, V. C Report of exploration of upper Yukon region. 
 
 Washington. 1886. 
 Turner, L. M Contributions to the natural history of Alaska. 
 
 1874.-1881. Arctic Series. V. S. Signal Service. 
 
 No. 2. 
 Whymper, F travel and adventure in Alaska. London. 1868. 
 
 See also his 'Russian America or "Alaska": 
 
 The Natives of the Youkon River and adjacent 
 
 country,' Ethnological Soc. of London Trans., 
 
 Vol. VII, pp. 167-185. 
 Compilation of narratives of explorations in Alaska. Washington. 1900. 
 
 To the above brief list may be added a general reference to the 
 reports of explorations and surveys undertaken at various times by 
 officers of the United States Government, in the interior of Alaska. These 
 reports will be found in the Annual Reports of the Smithsonian Institu- 
 tion, of the XT. S. Geological Survey, and other publications of the United 
 States Government. The principal reports of explorations and surveys 
 by officers of the Canadian Government, so far as they touch the field 
 covered by Murray's narrative, are listed above. 
 
 344l>-2 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 Youcon\ May 1848. 
 (Private) 
 
 Deae Siej — When I left Fort Simpson, you requested me 
 to send you, at this time, a ' full and particular account of M. 
 Yonom,'^ and as everything connected with this remote corner 
 of the globe will be interesting, I mean for once to send you 
 perhaps a longer letter than you ever received even from the 
 West Branch ; but I must not attempt to compete with my more 
 gifted contemporaries of that ' verdant ' and ' flowery ' land in 
 portraying with ' language poetical ' the beauties of the country, 
 the ' panoramic views,' etc., etc., not that I am devoid of feel- 
 ings of admiration for the ' sublime and beautiful,' but that 
 the Arctic regions have few such attractions. I purpose simply 
 to give you a plain but faithful account of all that I consider will 
 (be) of interest or importance in connection with the object for 
 which I was sent here ; but I find that I have delayed- this duty 
 too long, the season is approaching when x)ne must prepare for 
 the return voyage, and there is so much to occupy my attention 
 otherwise, that I must needs write more hurriedly than I could 
 wish. 
 
 You also requested me to send you some drawings of the 
 country, and as now I am altogether unprovided with either 
 drawing paper or pencils, and cannot comply in full with that 
 request, a few steel. pens now going on their third year, and 
 filed down to stumps are all my store, and must answer for 
 every purpose, and to ' do up ' a landscape with them is beyond 
 my humble powers; therefore, you must be content with the 
 
 1. Youoon is one of several variants of the name, now settled as 
 Yukon, that form having been adopted by both the Canadian and 
 American Boards on Geographic Names. The name was first applied by 
 John Bell, of the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1846, as he understood it 
 from the Indians. It was long known by its Eskimo name, Kwik-pak 
 (big river). See George M. Dawson's Report on the Yukon District, 
 Geol. Survey, 1887-8, 14-16 B; Marcus Baker's Geographic Dictionary of 
 Alaska, under title Yukon. 
 
 2. Obviously should read ' the Youcon.' 
 
 19 
 
 JWS— 2J 
 
20 CANADIAN- AECHIVES 
 
 few rough sketches that may be interspersed throughout these 
 pages. 
 
 I have appropriated a hooh for this letter, and as it must 
 be filled up with ' something or other,' I give you my journal 
 of the voyage to the Youcon in full, although it may be to you, 
 what Johnson's Dictionary was to Mr. Peniel, ' gr [and] dry 
 readin/ still the [coiirses]' and distances may be of consequence 
 — ^but I will not occupy your time or my ovrai with any further 
 prefatory remarks. 
 
 Allow me to introduce you to the starting point — Peela 
 River.^ 
 
 Fort Macpherson.^ From the batture in front, Jime, 1847. 
 There is the Fort as it was a year ago, but I may promise look- 
 ing much better on paper than it does in reality, coarse as the 
 sketch is. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM PEELS EIVEE TO THE YOUCON. 
 
 We commenced the journey to ' Lapiers House ' on the 11th 
 of June '47. My party consisted of Mr. A. McKenzie,* eight 
 men and one woman, accompanied by two of the P. River men 
 and four Indians to assist in carrying part of the things, par- 
 ticularly the potatoes and [barley]' you sent for seed, and an 
 
 1. This and tli© preceding emendation are conjectural, supplying 
 illegible words in the MS. 
 
 2. Named by Sir John Franklin after Sir Robert Peel. It was first 
 visited by Franklin on returning from his second overland expedition 
 to the Arctic. Explored by Bell in 1839; and in 1840-41 by A. K. Isbister, 
 also an officer of the H. B. Company. A more extensive exploration was 
 carried out by Count V. B. de Sainville in 1893; and. in 1905 C. Camsell, 
 of the Geological Survey, made a complete survey of the river. See 
 Isbister's account of his own and Bell's explorations, in the Eoyal 
 Geographical Journal, Vol. XV; and Camseirs Report on the Peel Eiver 
 and Tributaries, Geological Survey, 1904. Also Geological Survey, 1888-9, 
 114D. 
 
 3. Built by Bell, for the Hudson's Bay Company, in 1840. Named after 
 Chief Factor Murdo, or Murdock, McPherson. It is still maintained 
 by the Company, and is their most northerly establishment. Stands on the 
 east bank of Peel river. See Camsell's Report, 36CC. The description that 
 follows, in the text, refers to this illustration. 
 
 4. Alexander McKenzie. Several of this name were at one time or 
 another in the fur trade, without counting the great explorer who gave 
 his name to the Mackenzie river. This particular Alexander was a clerk 
 in the Hudson's Bay Company's service. He is probably the same 
 Alexander Mackenzie mentioned in Mair and Macfarlane's ' Mackenzie 
 Basin,' as having been stationed at Fort Resolution 1860-62. 
 
 5. Probably should read ' barley,' which it elsewhere appears Murrav 
 brought with him. 
 
JOUHJSTAL OF THE YUKON 21 
 
 extra bag of Pemican,' across the mountains: the Loncheux^ 
 Indian ' Vandeh ' previously engaged as Fort Hunter, and In- 
 terpreter to the ' Gens du f ou,'^ left at the same time with his 
 two wives and two children; he received some dried meat to 
 take them to Lapiers House, after which he was to provide for 
 himself and family. 
 
 The mens loads being weighed and all in readiness, we left 
 at the appointed hour 7 a.m., and were ferried across in the 
 boat to the west side of the river about a mile below the Fort. 
 The customary adieus and ' God bless yous ' having been duly 
 exchanged between us and our remaining friends, we shouldered 
 our packs, and, preceded by an Indian guide, struck into the 
 labyrinth of swamps and lakes that lay between us and the dis- 
 tant hills ; the whole of this flat, low, about four miles broad and 
 extending to the McKenzie, was overflown by the river in May, 
 and now in an almost impassable state. We waded most of the 
 way knee deep, but often to the middle in sludge and water, 
 the day was clear and warm, and the mosquitos had already 
 begun their ravages, which rendered the commencement of the 
 voyage anything but pleasant. In three hours we cleared the 
 ' slough of dispond,' and another hour brought us to the top 
 of hills nearest to Peels Eiver, where we rested for awhile and 
 partook of some pemican and moss water. The party being 
 now assembled and fairly ' en route ' in the open country, I 
 cautioned them to be careful of the company's property, that 
 each was responsible for what he carried, advised them not to 
 separate on the way, and left instructions with Mr. McKenzie 
 to look after things in general. I then started ahead with 
 Manuel, the best walker amongst the men, and an Indian not 
 so heavily loaded as the others, intending to reach L. P. House 
 in three days, so as to have my letters answered and things m 
 
 1. For an a<;<!Ount of the method of making pemmican, and the 
 materials employed, see Paul Kane's ' Wanderings of an Artist among 
 the Indians of North America/ p. 78. 
 
 2. Krst mentioned by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in his journey down 
 the Mackenzie in 1789. Sir John Richardson describes them briefly, but 
 credits most of the infor-nation he gives to Bell and Murray. See his 
 ' Arctic Searching Expedition,' ch. xii. Also Isbister, in Rep. of Brit. 
 Ass., 1847, p. 122. The Loucheux are of Athapaskan stock. 
 
 3. ' The Tathzey-kutchi, " people of the ramparts," known to the 
 traders and Canadian voyagers by the name of " Qens du Fou " . . . . 
 inhabit a wide country, which extends from the sources of the Porcupine 
 and Peel to those of the River of the Mountain Men.' Richardson, I, 398. 
 
22 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 order, that the voyage might not he delayed on that account. 
 The men each carried 40 lbs. exclusive of their provisions, 
 loaded quite enough for the trip at this season of the year. We 
 kept on at a strong pace for a few hojirs, until the Indian 
 became fagged, and expressed his inability to proceed with the 
 load he carried, having only my own things, not so much as the 
 others, I relieved him of his blanket, after which we got on - 
 better. Although now on high land and gradually ascending 
 eloping hills, the ground was completely saturated with water, 
 very little vegetation appeared, tufts of heath and moss thinly 
 interspersed on a bottom of soft mud, but only thrived about 
 6 inches from the surface, passed a range of small lakes extend- 
 ing toward the north, they were only open around the sides, the 
 ice in the centre appearing quite solid. Several large flocks of 
 geese were seen here, but we were too hurried to go after them. 
 On the banks of a rapid mountain stream, we found a few 
 dwarf pines, made a fire and intended camping for the night, 
 but after eating, and smoking of course, we felt refreshed and 
 pursued our journey. It was past 10 o'clock before we reached 
 a piace with sufficient brush to make a fire, and had some diffi- 
 culty in finding a spot dry enough whereon to sit. Each picked 
 out his own moss knole, and rolled up in his blanket composed 
 himself to sleep. We came only about 25 miles to-day in a 
 westerly course, and to the north of tlje winter route.^ 
 
 12th. Although stiff in the joints and otherwise fatigued I 
 could sleep little, from my moss bed having sunk into the water, 
 and from a severe attack of heartburn occasioned by eating* 
 the raw pemican which generally disagrees with my stomach. 
 
 I was therefore up early, and shot a brace of^ for my 
 
 own breakfast before the others awoke, we were ' on foot ' about 
 
 1. R. G. MoConnell followed substantially the same route, from Fort 
 MoPherson to Lapierre House, in 1888. ' The walking ' he says ' is 
 exceedingly difficult, as the surface is covered with the rounded grassy 
 soda which go in the country by the name of Tetes des femmes.' These 
 troublesome mounds are found in a wide plain which stretches to the 
 foot of the mountains. McConnell says the portage from Fort McPherson 
 to Lapierre House is about sixty miles long; that four to five days are 
 occupied in the trip ; that the ordinary load for an Indian on this 
 portage is forty pounds, exclusive of blanket and supplies for the trip; 
 and that the tariff for thiS" load is fifteen skins, or seven dollars and a 
 half, paid in goods. Geol. Survey, 1888-9, 116-17. 
 
 2. MS illegible. Probably should read ' partridge ' or • ptarmigan,' 
 which are found all through this country. 
 
JOUEXAL OF THE YUKON 23 
 
 the same time as yesterday, and meeting with few impediments, 
 made a good distance before breakfast, saw several fine deer, 
 and came close upon one on rounding a small hill, but our guns 
 being charged with small shot the chance was lost. The ground 
 became much firmer as we approached the Eocky Mountains, 
 now before us, and although the ascent was greater, the walking 
 was not nearly so fatiguing as yesterday, the hills are covered 
 with tolerable pasture and partridge and cranberries very plenti- 
 ful. Towards noon we reached the base of the ridge of moun- 
 tains, spread out our blankets to dry and took a short nap in 
 the heat of the day, preferring to walk during night, when, 
 although the sun is always shining at this season, it is cool. 
 Again refreshed, we began to ascend the mountains, by a ' zig- 
 sag' route amongst the rocks and snow banks, and in three 
 hours arrived at the sumit. Although calm and oppressively 
 hot below, we had here a cooling breeze, the view of the sur- 
 rounding country was very extensive, but not particularly strik- 
 ing, nothing but a continuation of barren mountains before us 
 and on each hand,^ behind me lay the undulating country we 
 had passed, the highest mountain to be seen here is about 6 
 miles to the south the bearings of which I took from Peels 
 River as a landmark in winter; the descent on the west side 
 was accomplished in less time, slipping, scrambling and tumbl- 
 ing over rocks and loose stones, and often assisted by a slide 
 down a snow bank, the bottom was reached in safety, with the 
 exception of a few slight bruises. We now joined that part of 
 the winter route known as the ' Barren tranise,'^ here every 
 place that could contain water was flooded, every snow bank 
 sent forth a stream, what appeared in winter to be diminutive 
 brooks, "were now foaming rivers, several of these intersected 
 our path and caused some detention. The last proved the most 
 formidable, where broad, |;he current was too strong, where 
 narrow too deep, we followed up stream some distance before 
 reaching a place that appeared fordahle, and we determined to 
 go no further. Manuel was the first to make the attempt, and 
 slowly committed himself to the water, while the Indian and 1 
 held on to the collar of his capot, he was just on the point of 
 
 1. ' The enelosing mountains/ says McConnell, ' are regular in out- 
 line and somewhat tame in appearance, and rise to elevations ahove the 
 ■valley from one thousand to two thousand five hundred feet.' 
 . 2. So this copy reads; obviously should be 'barren traverse.' 
 
24 CANADIAN AKCJilVKH 
 
 teing hauled up as a hopeless case, when the bottom was reached, 
 breast deep, and he was able to stand against the current. We 
 followed in succession and got a thorough soaking in snow 
 water, a smart walk soon brought heat into our shivering bodies, 
 but I was greatly mystified^ at the loss of a lot of Percussion 
 caps in my waistcoat pocket, rendered useless by the water, for 
 gun caps are scarce in this country. Several small bands of 
 Kein deer^ were seen on this [river], which appears to be a 
 favorite resort of theirs, during winter they are always to be 
 found here. Plovers and White Partridges (a wrong name 
 for the latter at this season, with their summer plumage they 
 have more the appearance of geese)' were plentiful, and two 
 brace were shot, some of their nests were also found, and the 
 eggs of course we devoured raw. On arriving at the chute, a. 
 pass in the rocks, where the sleds and dogs have to be lowered 
 over with lines in winter, we found it now a roaring cataract, 
 and the rocks on each side impassable. We had therefore to 
 ascend the hills and keep to the right for two miles further, 
 when the bottom was reached with all speed, a few tumbles over 
 rocks as before, and an ' almighty ' slide down an almost per- 
 pendicular snow bank, landed us far into the willows at the 
 bottom. We followed down the banks of the stream* until com- 
 pletely tired, and camped at 2 o'clock in the morning, where 
 there was plenty of dry wood, undressed and dried our clothes, 
 and supped in comfort on partridge and pemican. The distance 
 walked to-day might be 28 or 30 miles. 
 
 12th.^ Started at 10 o'clock and soon arrived at Bells River,^ 
 well known for its rapid current at this season. I had frequently 
 
 1. Apparently this is an error in copy for ' mortified.' 
 
 2. ' Caribou,' says Camsell (Geol. Survey, 1904, 47CC), ' are plentiful 
 everywhere in the vicinity of the mountain ranges (in the Peel River 
 country), some being found on the plateau.' 
 
 3. i.e., grouse. 
 
 i. The same branch of Bell river described by McConnell in his 
 report, 118D. Murray was unable to cross one of the mountain streams 
 entering this branch from the north; he, therefore, turned up its east 
 bank and crossed two miles higher up. 
 
 5. Should read ' 13th.' 
 
 6. Named after John Bell, who first explored its main waters iu 1839. 
 See McConnell's decription of the river, Geol. Survey, 1888-9, 121D. Bell 
 river rises in the height of land, not far from the source of Eat river 
 and joins the Porcupine about 137° 30'. The confusion in nomenclature 
 arises from the fact that the name 'Bell' was applied in Murray's 
 day to the branch of present Bell river, while present Bell river was 
 

 
 111 
 
 
 
 
 3448- p. 25. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 25 
 
 heard of the difficulties in crossing in the spring, hut was not 
 prepared to find it so very high as it now was : we each cut a 
 strong pole to assist in stemming the current, and several vain 
 attempts were made at different places : following up along the 
 banks, jfresh foot prints on the sand led us to a broader place, 
 where a pole, yet wet, was discovered : an Indian, as we after- 
 wards ascertained had crossed in the night on his way to the 
 Fort. But the river had risen much since, for no human being 
 could withstand the force of the current now. A raft was pro- 
 posed, but again disapproved of as being most dangerous from 
 the quantity of ice running, and so many rocks in the river. 
 There appeared no alternative but to follow up the river though 
 we should go to its source, which strange as it may seem, was 
 the same deep stream we crossed yesterday, but takes a circuit- 
 ous course of perhaps 20 miles amongst the mountains to the 
 north. The hills were again mounted, and continuing along 
 the ridge for some time we had a good view of the river above, 
 about two miles further up it separated into two channels, and 
 appeared from the height to be blocked with ice. Our steps 
 were bent thither, and fortunately we got safely on the main 
 cTiannel on a bridge of ice; the other channel being free, and 
 appearing short, Manuel who had the lead, entered it without 
 hesitation, and got about two-thirds' across when it became too 
 deep and rapid, on attempting to turn, his pole gave way and 
 he was carried down stream, most fortunately the current set 
 in to the opposite bank, and after rolling him once or twice over 
 he scrambled ashore, with the loss of his gun and bonnet. Had 
 he been carried a few feet farther down, the ice banks were 
 high and the current stronger, and he must have perished. I 
 did not till now remember that the ' lumber line ' for the new 
 boat was in the Indian's parcel, with it I was safe, having 
 secured my gun and pistols to my shoulders, I fastened the one 
 end of the line around my body, and attached a small stone 
 to the other, which, before entering the strongest of the current, 
 was flung across to Manuel, so that I might be brought up like 
 a log on the other side, but I managed with the assistance of a 
 strong pole to get over without being carried down. The 
 
 then known as Rat river. There were in fact two Eat rivers, rising in 
 thg same neighljoiirhood, one flowing into the Porcupine, the other into 
 the Mackenzie. Richardson calls the former Western Rat river. See 
 MeConnell, 115 D, on this double use of the name. 
 
26 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 Indian riot admiring this method, refused to make a trial, he 
 went further up, and crossed with less difficulty at a much 
 broader pi ace. ^ 
 
 Ourselves safe, my thoughts reverted to those behind, but as 
 they were accompanied by some Rat Indians^ who knew the river 
 well, our remaining here would be of little advantage. Being 
 now some 7 or 8 miles above the visual route, we intended 
 making a ' bee line ' for the houses, and ' Tarshee ' the Indian 
 undertook to be our guide. The whole afternoon was spent in 
 wandering amongst the mountains; not finding an outlet, we 
 climbed to the top of one, but there was no possibility of pro- 
 ceeding further in that direction, nothing to be seen but tower- 
 ing mountains and fearful precipices, and deep ravines covered 
 with eternal snow. There were no ' verdant hills ' here, not 
 a vestage of annimation appeared in this desolate region. It 
 was now late, but we looked in vain for a place to camp, all of 
 us being fatigued, our clothes saturated with perspiration and 
 Manuel completely drenched with water, we preferred sleeping 
 by a good fire to shivering up here amongst the rocks, it was 
 therefore decided to ' make tracks ' down the first valley, we 
 followed its course and arrived again- on the banks of Bells 
 River only a short distance below where we crossed ; the ground 
 was wet, but there were plenty of trees and a good encampment 
 was made as in winter. ISTone of us were in good humor, 
 ^fanuel for the loss of his gun and bonnet, ' Tarshee ' for losing 
 his way in the mountains, and myself for the loss of a day, for 
 1 expected to have slept at Lapiers House, and here we were 
 farther by a few miles than last night's encampment ; but there 
 was one consolation, the river was crossed and no obstruction 
 now lay before us by following the usual track. 
 
 1. McConnell's description of che ford and how it is crossed bears 
 oiit all that Murray here says. ' The ford,' he gays, ' is a difficult one, 
 Eis the stream is here deep and rapid, and its channel is paved with 
 treacherous quartzite boulders. The greatest caution is necessary in 
 crossing, as a stumble or false steyi would almost certainly be fatal to 
 one encumbered with a heavy pack. In, fording these swift mountain 
 torrents, it is customary to adopt a, communistic plan. The party line 
 up behind a long pole, and keeping a firm hold of it, advance into the 
 stream abreast. In this case the person above sustains the full brunt 
 of the current, but is held up by those below, and a stumbler receives 
 tlie support of those who have kept their footing.' Geol. Survey, 1888-9 
 119D. 
 
 2. Rat Indians, i.e.. Eat River Indians. Elsewhere Murray refers to 
 these Indians, of whom ' Grand Blano ' was chief, as the Youcon Indians. 
 
JOUEXAL OF THE YUKOX 27 
 
 14tli. Certain of reacting the houses to-day, we did not 
 again attempt the mountain, but kept along the west bank of 
 the river to the fork, where it takes a south west course which 
 also was ours. The low ground was very wet, and we preferred 
 walking along the sides of the mountains, (here less rocky and 
 more sloping than those before passed) until we joined the 
 beaten Indian track, which led us to the west over a long stretch 
 of hilly and marchy ground, and laterly through several mile? 
 of willows, small birch and poplar trees. On emerging from 
 this thicket we stood on the brow of a steep hill overlooking the 
 valley of Eat Eiver, the view here, although of a different dis- 
 cription, was ahnost equal to that on the west side of Portage 
 La Loche.^ 
 
 Had the bleak and ' snow capped ' mountains which bounded 
 the valley on each side, been covered with heather, the marchy 
 ground below us, •through which the river wandered, covered 
 with green fields, and the stunted pines to ' spreading oaks,' t 
 woiild have been greatly enhanced in my estimation. The blue 
 smoke curling upwards from the clump of dark pines far away 
 in the hollow, had a fine effect on the scene, but a still finer 
 effect on my spirits, for by it I knew that our people were alive 
 and the houses safe. Although there was no great danger, still 
 I had not heard from them for some time, and knowing the 
 aversion of the Rat Indians under - Grand Blanc ' to our going 
 to the Youcon, and the reported threats of the ' Gens du fou ' 
 to burn the houses, I could not be without anxiety. Another 
 hour's smart walking brought us opposite the houses, where our 
 anxious friends, who had long before discerned our approach 
 were waiting, and took us over the river in the boat. We 
 arrived at Lapiers ITouse^ at ^ past 4 p.m., where I was wel- 
 
 1. Portage la Loohe, or Methye Portage, leading from Churchill 
 waters into the Clearwater, and so to the Athabaska, Mackenzie and 
 Peace river systems. This -portage was not only a vital link in the vast 
 network of water communications — the highways of the western fur-trade, 
 but was and is one of the most beautiful spots in America. It has been 
 described with- enthusiasm by scores of travellers, from Alexander 
 Mackenzie down. See Back's account, in his ' Arctic Land Expedition,' 
 p. 71, and his delightful sketch, forming one of the illustrations in 
 Franklin's 'Polar Sea.' 
 
 2. Lapierre House, built originally as an outpost of Port MoPherson, 
 and, after the establishment of Fort Yukon, used in connection with the 
 shipment of supplies and furs to and from the Yukon. McConnell 
 
28 CAITADIAM' ARCHIVES 
 
 corned by Mrs. Murray, who, with the woman and three men 
 stationed there, I found well. They had passed the spring as 
 comfortably as could be expected, been well supplied with meat 
 by the ' Mourdour ' and ' TAie/ ■" the two Indians appointed to 
 hunt deer for the place. Once more alongside of my young 
 wife, before a table well replenished with venison steaks, and 
 the usual accompaniments, the fatigues of the journey were 
 soon forgotten. 
 
 15th. On looking around this morning I found the work, for 
 which orders were left in spring, all completed : the boat (named 
 the ' Pioneer ') built and ready launched, oars etc made, Mr. 
 
 Bells^ old ^ repaired for the Indian and his family, the 
 
 stern covered with bark, doors made, and everything in good 
 order under the management of Inkstir the boat builder. Part 
 of the forenoon was spent in talking with five Indians, all the 
 way from the Youcon, whom I found here awaiting our arrival, 
 they had been up towards the source of Porcupine river^ trad- 
 ing furs from the ' Gens du f ou,' from whom they heard of our 
 going to the Youcon this summer, the several messages sent by 
 the Kat Indians had not been delivered, and none of those in 
 the Youcon expected us, and had of course collected no provi- 
 sions. Prom these Indians I heard of the Russians being at 
 the Youcon the previous summer, the particulars of which I 
 
 describes the post as it was in 1888 (Geol. Survey, 1888-9, 121D), and says 
 it had then been in existence about thirty-five years. It has since been 
 abandoned by the H. B. Co. Lapierre House stood in Murray's day on 
 the branch of present Bell river which then bore that name. It was 
 afterward moved to the main stream, where its location is shown on 
 McConnell's map. 
 
 1. John Bell, chief trader in the Hudson's Bay Company. His 
 explorations have already been referred to. Sir John Richardson 
 obtained from him much of the information as to lower Mackenzie River 
 country and its natives, embodied in his 'Arctic Searching Expedition.' 
 Writing in 1847, Richardson says that Bell had then ' resided many years 
 on the Mackenzie.' Bell married a daughter of Peter Warren Dease, the 
 Arctic explorer. He was stationed at Fort Good Hope in 1837. 
 
 2. Probably • canoe.' 
 
 3. ' The Porcupine heads within thirty miles of the Pelly- Yukon 
 approximately in latitude 65°. 30' N., and after describing a great semi- 
 circular curve to the northeast, falls into the samp river a hundred and 
 fifty miles farther down. At its most easterly point it approaches within 
 eighty miles of the Mackenzie, but is separated from it by the main 
 range of the Rocky mountains. Its total length approximates to five 
 hundred miles.' McConnell, Geol. Survey, 1888-9, 122D. 
 
w 
 
 3448- p. 28 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YtTKON 29 
 
 then informed you. Here were Indians at L. P. House, sup- 
 plied with Eussian goods principally Beads, and taking the 
 furs from almost before our doors, intending to dispose of them 
 to the Russians in the Youcon this summer, surely the H. B. 
 Co. can supply Beads and the articles that Indians require as 
 well as the R. A. T. Co.,^ but I will have something to say on 
 this subject hereafter. These Indians had, besides a few Beaver 
 81 skins in Martens for which they demanded Beads and Gruns, 
 I could not open out my goods here, but persuaded them to dis- 
 pose of their peltries to the Indians here, which they did next 
 day for guns and ammunition, and the furs went to Peels 
 River.^ This being a clear day I had a good opportunity of 
 ascertaining the vslriation of the compas, by a meridian line, 
 my only method, and found it to vary scarcely 47 degrees east, 
 at Peels River it is 48 degrees. I brought the boat compas 
 . here on my first trip in April, had it placed in the end of my 
 sled — for I drive a loaded train — and took the bearings of the 
 numerous turnings and windings of the winter route, calcu- 
 lating the distance by our rate of walking and the time occu- 
 pied in each course. 
 
 COUKSES AND DISTANCES OF WINTER TRIP PROM PEBL^ KIVER. 
 
 April 2, by the windings of the loute 4 
 " 2, 
 " 2, 
 " 3, 
 " 3, 
 
 4, 
 " 4^ 
 
 i, 
 •• 5, " • " 
 
 5, 
 " 5, 
 
 I make Lapiers House to be distant from P.R., Y8 miles^ by the 
 winter route, by the summer ditto perhaps 68 miles, not in- 
 cluding the lost day, and allowing we had come the direct track. 
 Two of the Indians accompanying our party arrived in the 
 evening and informed us of all being safe on this side of Bella 
 
 1. Eussian-American Trading Company. 
 
 2. As already noted, McConnell makes the distance sixty miles 
 ' distant from P.E.,' that is. Peels riyer, or Fort McPherson. 
 
 4, 
 
 miles 
 
 n 
 
 miles 
 
 west 
 
 5i 
 
 " 
 
 5 
 
 " 
 
 S.W. 
 
 8 
 
 " 
 
 C 
 
 te 
 
 W. 
 
 11 
 
 " 
 
 8 
 
 *' 
 
 w. 
 
 8 
 
 " 
 
 5 
 
 " 
 
 w.s.w. 
 
 12 
 
 " 
 
 9 
 
 " 
 
 w. 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 1 
 
 " 
 
 N.W. 
 
 5 
 
 " 
 
 i 
 
 " 
 
 w. & s 
 
 7 
 
 ff 
 
 6 
 
 " 
 
 S.W. 
 
 7 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 '^ 
 
 S.W. 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 2 
 
 " 
 
 w. 
 
 6 
 
 " 
 
 5 
 
 tt 
 
 N.W. 
 
30 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 Eiver; they arrived there last night when the river was still 
 too high, but it fell greatly during the night, and they crossed 
 in the morning with little difficulty. 
 
 16th. During the day the Youcon Pioneers came dropping 
 in by 'ones and twos,' and in the evening the ' rear guard,' 
 namely John Hope and his wife, made their appearance ; I was 
 glad to see them all here in safety, but they were much fatigued 
 and the woman completely ' knocked up ' (I believe before she 
 left Fort Simpson) . All the things were safely received except 
 a valuable parcel of nails, containing those for gate hinges, 
 etc., lost by Bouche who had transferred part of his load to 
 some of the dogs, while he went after a band of Rein Deer, I 
 was much annoyed at this as he was told so particularly to be 
 careful of them. Here is a sketch of the houses, but they are 
 so closely immured in a thicket of pines, that no view can be 
 taken to include the surrounding mountain scenery. 
 
 17th. The new private orders were made out and my 
 writing finished, squared accounts with the Indians hunters, 
 and arranged with a steady old ' Loucheu,' father-in-law to 
 before mentioned ' Mourdour,' to remain in charge of thn 
 houses until fall, for which he was to be allowed a small 
 gratuity ; he was also to collect as many dry fish as possible for 
 the winter voyaging, to be paid for at the usual rate. Gave 
 out provisions for four days to the men, women and Indians 
 returning to Peels Kiver which rendered my stock of dry meat 
 abo^it 300 lbs. The men having had a days rest, were warned 
 to be prepared to embark immediately after breakfast on the 
 morrow. 
 
 18th. This being Friday, several hints were thrown out by 
 the men (they no doubt expecting to be allowed another day's 
 repose) to defer starting until, Saturday, but it could not bo 
 allowed. The boat was loaded and breakfast over before em- 
 barking; we 'shoved off' at' 10 o'clock with three cheers for 
 the Youcon, responded to by the Peels Eiver party on shore, 
 who left on their return at the same time. A few short wind- 
 ings brought us to Eat River, (it is on the banks of Bells Eiver 
 the houses are built) distant North and West f of a mile, it 
 flows from the ]!^orth, is narrow and deep with very little cur- 
 rent. I now commence the courses and distances, with which 
 I was as particular as possible. A ' Binnicle ' made of a solid 
 
JOUEXAL OF THE YUKOX 31 
 
 block of wood was prepared for the compas, and fixed in the 
 centre of the ' stern sheets ' free from any attraction of the 
 iron works of the hoat etc., and the bearings of every turn of 
 the river were noted, and the distance calculated by time, tha 
 rate of pulling and the strength of the current, W. 1-3 (West 
 1-3 of a mile) S.W. 1-5, W. & by S. 1-6, S. by E. 1-8, S.S.W. 
 1-3, S.W. 1-6, S.E. 1-6, E. by K i, W. 1-3, W. by S. h N.W. 
 & by W. 1-3, KW. 18, S.W. 1-3, S.E. & by S. i, W. & by E". 
 1-8, W.KW. 1-8, N.W. & by W. 1-3, W.KW. 1-3 (Eound hills 
 on north bank) S.W.i, S. 1-6, S.E. by S.^, S. & by E.J, KE. 1-8 
 (Double a sharp point) S.W. 1-6, S.W. & by W. i, S.W. & by 
 S. i, S.W. 1-6, (Small hills) S. & by'W. I, S.E. & by S. 1-3, 
 S.W. & by S. I, S.E. I, (S. point blanket mountain seen in 
 front), S. I, (Rocky hills on left), S.E. 1-6, S.W. h S. & by 
 W. 1-6, (double sharp point) N.N.E. i, N.W. 1-8, S. & by 
 W. 1-3, S. 2-3, S. & by W. 2-3, S.W. & by S. i, S.S.W. 1-3, 
 S.W. ^. A thunderstorm accompanied by heavy rain compelled 
 us to put ashore at -J to 3 o'clock. The rain continuing, we 
 embarked here for the night. The river continues narrow, deep, 
 and slugish, and of a most tortuous course, confined between, 
 small hills, often rocky and partly covered with small bush and 
 pines. The banks are steep and muddy and thickly covered 
 with willows. It is appropriately called by the Indians ' Eat 
 River,' having the appearance of a place suitable to the habit.* 
 of the musk rat. There are high mountains on each side, more 
 particulary the north, but few could be seen from the river, the 
 view being interupted by intervening hills. Plenty of geese 
 were seen, but, fond as I am of shooting, I was forced to lay 
 my gun aside, my attention beiiig solely occupied with my log, 
 owing to the confounded short turns of the river, however a few 
 were knocked down by W. McKenzie and some of the men. 
 Those of the men unprovided with guns of their own, were 
 each lent one for the trip and [given ?] a little ammunition in 
 case of meeting with hostile Indians etc. All were pleased with 
 the qualities of the new boat, she had a fair trial on the oars 
 and went well, and though heavily laden drew only two feet 
 water. About 9 o'clock the weather cleared up and became 
 much colder. 
 
 19th. A clear morning and blowing strong from the west: 
 Started at 5 o'clock and proceeded W. i, IST.W. i, (Steep hills 
 
32 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 on right) KW. & b.y W. 1-3, W. i, N.W. 1-6, S.W. & by W. 
 1-6, S.W. & by S. i W. & by S. ^, W. 2-3, S.W. & by W. |, 
 W.S.W. 1-8, ('Blue Fish Eiver'' enters from the south east) 
 W.IST.W. I, (Another slugish river enters from the south ) E".E. 
 & by E. f, double point 1-5, W. & by S. l, (Eocky banks on 
 left) W. 1-3, IsT.W. 1-3, (left bank high and sloping, river 
 widens, put ashore for breakfast) '^.'W. 1-3, JST.W. &'by W. 
 1-6, N.i^.w. 1-3, W.W. i, W. & by N. i, N.W. 1-8, (small 
 round island) K & by E. -Jj'lSr.N.W. ^^, (a small river enters 
 in right) :N.W. & by W. U, S.W. & by W. 1-3, W. & by N. i, 
 W.N.W. 4, W. i, (High banks) S.W. feby W. 1, W.S.W. i, 
 W. 1-3, (Range of barren mountains about 8 miles ahead) W. 
 S.W. i, W. 3-4, W. & by K 1-3, W. & by S. |, S.W. i, S. & 
 by W. 1, S.W. & by W. 1-3, S.W. & by W. h S.W. & by W. 
 1-6, S.W. & by S. i, S.W. & by W. 1^, S.W. & by S. 1-3, S.W. 
 1-3, S.W. & by W. 1, W.S.W. I, S.W. & by W. 1, W. & by S. 
 2-3, S.W. I, W.S.W. If. Where we entered the large river flow- 
 ing from the south east. We were hailed by some Indians, (sir 
 men with their families) camped aniongst the willows on the 
 point, and went ashore; the five Youeon Indians who left 
 Lapiers House the day before we did, were also here and had 
 warned the others of our approach. They were busy preparing 
 a feast for their Youeon visitors, to wit, a lot of musk rats, 
 moose fat, and wild onions' stowed in a vessel of birch bark. 
 They had a small quantity of excellent dried meat, which was 
 traded for ammunition and tobacco. I expected to have met 
 the ' Grand Blanc,' their chief, with a large party hereabouts. 
 but he had not yet returned from the mountains which pleased 
 us quite a mite, as we might have had some trouble with hira. 
 Those here already knew of the object of our going to the You- 
 eon, and appeared to care very little about it. I gave each a 
 small piece of tobacco, and they promised to take provisions to 
 the houses in fall. They commenced to dance, but we could 
 
 1. This small tributary of Bell river (now known as Rock river) 
 must not be confused with the. Blue-fish river which joins the Porcupine 
 from the south a few miles above the head of the Ramparts. 
 
 2. Eagle rirrr. 
 
 3. ' When at Red river,' says W. W. Kirby, ' I read a paper by Mr. 
 [George] Barnstou, on the growth of the onion on the banks of the 
 Porcupine river, and I have much pleasure in being able to confirm his 
 statements, that it is not the real onion, but the chive that grows in 
 such abundanc" there.' Smithsonian Report, 1864, p. i20. 
 
JOUENAL Or THji YTJKON 33 
 
 remain no longer, and left them ' going it ' on the banlc. Eat 
 Eiver, terminates here, we now descend ' Porcupine Eiver,'^ 
 (the Indian name is Chow-en-Chuke) three times the breadth 
 of the former with a strong current and more sloping banks, 
 W. & by N. If, N.W. & by W. 2i, N. & by W. 11, N.W. & by 
 W. li, N. & by W. li, N.E. -I, KE. i (High banks, lofty 
 moimtains seen in the distance to the KE.) IST.W. & by W..1, 
 N.N.W. I, N. & by W. f , (Mountains -on left) N.E. & by N. 
 f, N.W. & by N. ^, (Kocky hills on each side, known as the 
 ' Small ramparts ')' KW. & by W. i, KN.E. l^, N.KW. 3^, 
 W. 1, W.S.W. 1^. We camped at -J past 6 o'clock, had a strong 
 westerly wind all day with several showers of rain, since enter- 
 ing the river the country is more open, patches of small pine are 
 frequently met with on the banks, now less muddy than before, 
 but the rising ground has a very barren look, blighted pines 
 and very small birch are thinly scattered over it in every direc- 
 tion. We made better way this afternoon, being greatly assistO'l 
 by the strong current. The Youcon Indians overtook and 
 camped with us here. 
 
 20th. A cloudy and windy morning; we left early (4 
 o'clock), W.S.W. *, W.]S\W. i, (a small river on the right)' 
 W.KW. 2, W. & by S. If, N.W. i, KKE. 1^', K & by W. 
 f, W.S'.AY. 2j, (A sharp rock in middle of the channel, 
 middle of last course, hills on left, mountains 5 or 6 miles 
 ahead) KW. l^ KW. & by IT. 3, KKW. 1, KW. f, W.IN". 
 W. 1-1, W.S.W. If, W. & by S. Ih W. ii, (Heavy rain, put 
 ashore for breakfast, we remained here on account of -the rain 
 until noon when it cleared up, the wind blowing strong from 
 
 1. The Borcupine first explored by John Bell, in 1842 and 1844.. Three 
 years after Murray's journey, Robert Campbell ascended the Porcupine, 
 from Fort Yukon to Lapierre House. Thereafter the river became a 
 regular trade 'route for the Hudson's Bay Company, until the transfer 
 of Alaska to the United States, when the company were compelled to 
 abandon Fort Yukon and confine their operations to the Canadian side 
 of tte boundary. It was not until 1888 that that part of the Porcupine 
 from the mouth of Bell river to the boundary was surveyed, by E. G. 
 McConnell. The same year, Wm. Ogilvie explored the upper Porcupine, 
 from its source to the mouth of Bell river. 
 
 2. ' The valley,' says McConnell, ' is generally rather wide and shallow, 
 but at one point about ten miles below Bell river, becomes somewhat 
 contracted, and for some miles has the appearance of » wide canon.' 
 This is what Murray calls • the ' small ramparts.' See Geol. Survey, 
 1888-9, 123D, for description of this portion of the Porcupine. 
 
 3. Probably Driftwood river. 
 3448—3 
 
3i CAKADIAN AECI-IIVES 
 
 the west created an ugly swell, but by keeping along shore we 
 were enabled to proceed) W. 1^, W.lSr.W. f, KW. & by W. 
 If, (Steep rocky banks on south side) N.IST.E. 3^, N.IT.W. 1, 
 (High precipices on each side) W. & by N. 1^, W.S.W. 4|, 
 (an island) S.S.W. 1, W. h W.KW. l^, S.W. & by W. 21, 
 (A small river enters on the left, mountains seen to the south) 
 S.S.W.' 3, W. f, W. & by K If, (A narrow creek enters on 
 the letf the only outlet to a lake, a short distance to the south, 
 in which the Indians say there are plenty of excellent whi'e 
 fish ; they call it ' Big White Fish Lake,' it would be a great 
 acquisition to a post within reach) IST.W. 2^, S.W. & by 
 W. 2i, W.S.W. 1, W. & by S. 2|, (another small river joins 
 this on the left, high mountains about 10 miles to the south) 
 S.S.W. 11, (Kocky banks and shoal water) W.f, W.KW. 
 1^, W.S.'W. 1, (Head of large island; by the direction of the 
 Indians, we followed the left channel) S.W. & by W. ■^, S. & 
 by E. ^, S.W. 1, W.E".W. ^, Encamped on the island, near to 
 the lower end. Towards evening- the weather became very dis- 
 agreeable, heavy showers of rain and sleet with strong wind. 
 The boat went aground for the first time this afternoon, where 
 the river is broad and very shoal, although the water is never 
 considered high. The Indians say that in ' half a moon ' more 
 the boat could not pass. The Peels Eiver Indian with his 
 family in the large canoe, came up to us after supper. The 
 Youcon Indians went ahead to wait for us further on, where 
 they expected to kill some Eein deer. Two deer were seen 
 crossing the river in the evening, chase was given by the Indian 
 but without success. A few more geese were killed to-day. 
 
 21st. Some snow fell during night, and in the morning 
 sleet and rain, the weather was so unfavourable that we break- 
 fasted before starting. Left at 9 o'clock and proceeded on the 
 same course as' last 4^, IST.W. & by W. (An island 1-^ miles 
 in length followed south channel, the main channel on the north 
 side) 3| W.lSr.W. 1, W. 1^, (The Indians were tere waiting for 
 us on the bank with the meat of two Kein deer, killed th's 
 morning. Although only two of them had guns, each had his 
 share of the meat, they were paid in ammunition and a small 
 bit of tobacco given gratis to encourage them to hunt more") 
 
 1. This course about one and a half miles long by McConnell's sairvey. 
 
 2. Fishing river. 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 35 
 
 S.W. & by W. 54, W.KW. 1, N. & by W. 2, W. & by S. iy 
 S.W. & by S. f, (A low island, smootb mountains seen to the- 
 north) W.S.W. 2^, (Shoal water) S.W. and by S. Ih S.S.E, 
 If, W. & by S. If, S. 1, S.S.E. li, S. & by W. 2^, W.S.W. 
 If, (A large island on left, formed by the rain having cut 
 through this point in the spring, we kept the new course, a 
 saving of about 3 miles) !N".W. & by W. 4^, (High banks on 
 right, an island on left) S.W. & by S. 3^, (Kept to the left of 
 another island) W, 5^, S.W. 1, S. & by E. 4, S.W. & by S. §,■ 
 W. 1, l^.W. 1. Compelled again to encamp early oh ac- 
 count of rain, it cleared up in the evening and became very 
 warm, and the mosquitos more troublesome than usual. The 
 " river in some places passed to-day is broad, we were aground 
 twice on hidden battures, but plenty of water was always found 
 when in the proper channel. To the north is a range of high 
 but smooth mountains^ (seen by us most of the day) where it 
 is said Eein deer resort in numerous numbers during winter, 
 the Indians of course call them the ' Carribeux Mountains,' two 
 apparently very high mountains are seen to the south say 25 or 
 30 miles distant. We are now, according to my reckoning, 
 across the Boundary Line,^ and I have been on the look-out as 
 we came along, for a site whereon to build ; should it so happen, 
 that we are compelled to retreat upon our own territory. There 
 are several points that might answer well only for the scarcity 
 of timber for building purposes, but I daresay enough could 
 be picked up here and there if it was actually required.* 
 
 This is the country of the ' Vanta Kootchin ' (pien of the 
 lake) a band of about 80- ' first-rate ' fellows for the whites, 
 some of the Toucon Indians often come in winter to hunt deer 
 on these mountains. To the north west are the ' Ney-et-se- 
 
 1. By McConneirs survey this course should be S.S.W. Distance 
 overestimated. The ' low island ' referred to lies opposite the mouth 
 of Old Crow river, which Murray seems to have passed without noticing. 
 
 2. Now known as the Old Crow mountains, so named after a Loucheux 
 chief of that name, to whose hunting grounds they belong. 
 
 3. Murray is a good deal out in his reckoning. He has not yet 
 reached' the upper end of the Ramparts, and the International boundary 
 is not far from the lower end. He has, in fact, nearly fifty miles more 
 to go before he reaches Russian territory. 
 
 i. As a matter of fact, the Hudson's Bay Company was compelled 
 eventually to retreat across the boundary, though not by the Russians, 
 and a post was built near the lower end of the Ramparts. 
 
 3418— 3i 
 
36 CANADIAN" AEOIIIVES 
 
 Kootcliiu ' (Gens du large) numbering about, 40 men, it is also 
 ■witbin reacb of a band of tbe ' Gens-dn-fou,' and being right 
 in the midst of the Carribeux lands, I would suppose oio better 
 place could be found for provisions. 
 
 22nd. Another cloudy morning and a few light showers of 
 rain. We left at ^ past 5 and continued IST.W. 1\, W. & by 
 ISr. 2^-, (High crumbling rocky banks) JST.W. & by W. 1:^, 
 (Commencement of the great ramparts,^ the river becomes 
 quite narrow and the current much stronger) W 2^, W.S.W. 
 11, W. 1, W. & by S. If, W. i, W. & by S. 2^, N.W. & by W. 
 If, (A large rock peeping up in the centre of the river, called 
 by the Indians the death rock. A Loncheux while descending 
 in high water broke his canoe on the rock, remained there and 
 died of starvation, his bones were found on it in the fall. 
 Indians are proverbially good swimmers and it is strange to 
 hear of any n;eeting their death in this manner, but few of the 
 Loncheux can swim, although most of their time in summer is 
 spent on the water) W. 4:\, W.S.W. 2|, W. 1, (Found an open- 
 ing in the rocks with plenty of wood and went ashore for break- 
 fast, the Youcon Indians continued on to wait for us at a famed 
 deer pass below) W.S.W. 2^, W. & by S. I, W.S.W. 2f, S.W. 
 & by S. If, (passed .the Indian* canoes hauled up on the bank, 
 where there are some steep wooded hills) S.W. & by W. 3, 
 W.S.W. +, (very high rock on each side) W. 1^, W.S.W. |, 
 S.W. i S".W. & by W. I, KW. & by W. If, S.W. I, S.W. & by 
 S. 24, W. & by S.i, S.W. 2, W.KW. 1, (A small but very 
 rapid river enters from the IST.W.) S.W. \, S. & by E. (Heavy 
 
 1. ' The banks of the Porcupine/ says Richardson, " and country on 
 the north of it belong to the V anta-kutch{, " people of the lakes," having 
 80 men ; and to another band, named Neyetsk-kutchi, " people of the open 
 country," who have 40 men.' The latter are doubtless the Natsikkutchin 
 of Dall, the Natchekutchin of Eoss, and the Natsit-kutchin of- Petroff. 
 The latter says that the word natsit signifies strong, and that this tribe, 
 described as nomadic, not numerous, and occupying the banks of the 
 Porcupine above its junction with the Yukon, were known to the fur- 
 traders as gens de large. 
 
 2. The Ramparts is ' a local name employed by the traders to desig- 
 nate a contracted walled valley or cafion.' (The term has been applied 
 to similar conditions on the Mackenzie, the Yukon and the Porcupine.) 
 ' The portion of the valley of the Porcupine which passes under this 
 name is exceedingly picturesque. The banks rise steeply from the water's 
 edge on both sides to heights of from three to five hundred feet, and 
 their green slopes are everywhere broken by shattered pinnacles and' bold 
 crags and cliffs of brilliantly tinted dolomites and quaitzites.'— McConnell 
 129D. 
 

 
 
 K 
 
 344S— p. 36. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 37 
 
 swells here, sunken rocks and powerful current) f. A singular 
 isolated pillar on the left bank about 20 feet in height/ (the 
 channel is here broader)' S.W. & by W. f, S.W. & by S. 2^ 
 ■(channel again narrow) S.S.E. |, S. & by W. 2f (The 
 principal body of the river rushes through a small channel of 
 about thirty feet wide, between the rocks on one side and a high 
 strong batture on the other, this is named the ' Carribeux leap ' 
 from one being able to leap over it, so say the Indians) S.W. 
 i, S. & by W. 2, S.E. 1*, W.S.W. 1^ S.' & by W. 3, W. 3|, 
 KW. & by N. 2, W. & by N. h W. & by S. 1^, W.N.W. 1, 
 (Banks again sloping and wooded) 'N.W. 2f, (Channel broad 
 and rocky hills on each side) W. & by S. 1^^ S.W. & by W. 1*, 
 (Eiver becomes very broad, with low banks, and smooth hills 
 in the distance) S.W. 2, W.S.W. 4|, (An island on right 1^ 
 miles long, and another smaller one on the left) I^^.W. 2^, N'.E. 
 & by !N^. 1, Camped at J to 8 o'clock having come a good di-3- 
 tance to-day, but have to thank the strong current between the 
 ramparts, the river, for about 68 miles, runs between rocky 
 hills and precipices varying from 30' to 120 in height. The 
 channel is in most point's quite narrow but in others it again 
 spreads out, and numerous points suitable for camping both 
 summer and winter can be found. Several ugly rocks showed 
 » themselves above water, and the heavy swell in the narrows 
 indicated a rough and rocky bottom, where in low water it 
 would be most dangerous for a boat to pass, as there is no possi- 
 bility of making portages except in a few places, there is good 
 -' tracking ground ' all the way, unless the water is very high. 
 The deer are plentiful here all summer, their beaten roads in 
 the passes on each side are often seen, there is a range of moun- 
 tains extending to the south which they frequent in winter. 
 The Indians arrived after supper with the meat of another 
 small and lean deer, they saw several cross the river but did not 
 go after them being afraid they would not overtake them. The 
 
 1. This ' singular isolated pillar ' was afterwards supirSsed by the 
 traders, according to McConnell, to be equidistant from Lapierre House 
 and Fort Yukon, and was, therefore, known as the Halfway Pillar. The 
 ' small but very rapid river ' mentioned by Murray is now known 
 appropriately as Rapid river. Seven miles below this river, Murray 
 passes the site of future Eampart House. 
 
 2. Position of Eampart House at the date of McConnell's survey. 
 
 3. Position of Howling Dog rook of McConnell's survey. 
 
38 CAKTADIAIT AECHIVES 
 
 Loncheux^ hunter came up at the same time, having eaten noth- 
 ing all day. He received a piece of meat for supper. The 
 Indians joined in a dance in the evening. I had no opportunity 
 of taking a sketch of the ramparts except when ashore at break- 
 fast [for] which I am sorry, as we passed some very romantic 
 scenery. 
 
 23rd. A clear morning, but strong sou' west wind. We 
 started at 6 o'clock accompanied by the six canoes, !N".E. &• by 
 K 2 (the river broad and full of battures) N. & by W. ^ 
 (white clay banks) N.IST.W. 2J, (on the right is Bear Island, 
 so named from a band of seven Grizzly Bears being seen on it) 
 S.S.W. 11 W-.S.W. 11, S.W. f, S.S.W. 2, S. & by W. h 
 W. & by S. If, (High sandy banks) S.S.W. 2f, S.W. 4^, 
 (Blowing a gale of wind right ahead, a heavy swell, and the 
 boat shipping water, were compelled to put ashore in conse- 
 quence and remained until the wind fell in the evening ^- to 
 6 o'clock) continued S.W. 2, (passed ' Carp River ' entering 
 from the north)^ S.W. & by S. 1|, W. & by K If, S.S.W. 2, 
 S. U, S.W. & by W. h S. & by W. If, W.S.W. 2, S.W. 1|-, 
 W.S.W. 1, W. & by ]Sr. 2, W. & by S.' 1^, (High rocky shore) 
 W. 4, W.KW. 1, (Steep rocky island) W. 1. Encamped at 
 ^ past 9 o'clock on a small willow island, in a den of mos- 
 quitos, the sky again lowering but a calm night. The Indians ' 
 kept with us all day, and, although not always right, were of 
 some assistance in pointing out the proper channels. The river 
 is now broad and in many places shoal, with numerous small 
 islands and battures, the boat was frequently aground and at 
 one time got afloat with much difficulty. The current is yet 
 strong, but not so much so as between the ramparts. While 
 ashore so long to-day I endeavoured to ascertain the variation 
 of the compas, as the sun shone at times, but passing clouds 
 
 1. Throughout this copy of the journal, the name Loucheux is 
 repeatedly spelled Lonoheu^; possibly an error on Murray's part, but 
 more probably a mistake of the copyist in deciphering his manuscript. 
 
 2. Now Coleen river. Succor river, on McConnell's plotting shee.. 
 The ' high rocky shore ' which Murray encounters below ' Carp river,' 
 is now known as the Lower Ramparts. McConnell makes the distance 
 from the Lower Ramparts to the mouth of the river, sixty miles, in a 
 direct line, considerably more, of course, taking in the windings of the 
 river. Murray's ' Bear Island ' cannot now be identified. Dr. George 
 M. Dawson notes that ' black and grizzly bears roam over the entire 
 region (of the Yukon and its tributaries) and are often seen along the 
 banks of the rivers in the latter part of the summer when dead or dying 
 salmon are to be obtained with ease.' 
 
JOTTEM-AL OP THE YUKON 39 
 
 prevented me from drawing a meridian line accurately with the 
 rude instrument I carried for that purpose, I could not he cer- 
 tain whether it was 43 or 44 degrees east, I had the compas 
 marked ty guess at 45 east to-day which comes pretty near the 
 marh. 
 
 24th. The morning being favourable the men were roused 
 early, we had so much bad weather lately, that it was thought 
 best to take advantage of it when fine. Under way at 20 m. 
 past 4 o'clock, still blowing fresh from the same quarter as 
 yesterday, but with little swell. W.S.W. If, W. 3f, W. & by 
 H. 2^, (an island, low hills in the distance to the IST. and East) 
 W. 4, (low muddy banks covered with pines and willows) W. 
 KW. li,.]Sr.W._i, W 1, W. & by K i, W. IJ, (Blue hills 
 seen about 10 miles distant to the south, the river divides here, 
 followed the north channel, the .other appears to run about 2 
 miles to the south) W. & by N. 1^ S.W. J, S.S.E. IJ, S.W. 1*, 
 S.S.W. 1^, (joined south channel) W.S.W. 2, S.E. |, E. l|, 
 S.E. If, S.W. & by S. ^, (A river similar to Eat Kiver enters 
 from the south,^ head of large island, kept the left channel) 
 S.W. 4, S.S.E. i, E.S.E. I, (Blue mountains seen 15 or 20 
 miles ahead) S.S.E. 1|,- S.S.W. ^, (a small river enters from 
 the east) W. i, KN.W. f, S.W. & by W. f, S.W. & by S. IJ, 
 S.W. & by W. I, W. 2J, (foot of large island above noted) 
 KW. & by W. 3i, S. & by W. |, S. & by E. IS, S.W. & by S. 
 
 4, W & by S. 2i, S.S.E. 2^, (another island) S.W. &.by W. 1J„ 
 
 5. & by W. 3^, S.W. & by S. 1^, (Three beaver were seen here 
 and one killed) W. 1, (a lake pointed out in the left where the 
 Youcon Indians come to hunt rats in spring^) JST.W. & by W. 
 H, Wi (several small islands) S.W. 2|, W.S.W. 1, (island 
 on right) S.S.W. i, S.E. 1^, S.S.W. li, W.i, (Kiver shoal, 
 went aground. A smoke discerned "on the bank below, at what 
 is called the canoe portage, to which the Indians hurried, on 
 arriving they informed us that it was a Death Fire. It is the 
 custom of these Indians when any of them die, to make a fire 
 at a public place where they know their friends will pass, 
 willow poles are stuck in the ground on which is hung the hair 
 of the deceased. They told us, by what marks I know not, that 
 
 1. Probably the stream now known as Eat river, joining the Porcu- 
 pine to the east of 144°. 
 
 2. Eat lake. 
 
40 GANADIAK" ARCHIVES 
 
 it was an old man that had died, and being anxious about their 
 relations, they said they must leave us, but directed us to keep 
 to the left of a large island we would arrive at to-morrow. At 
 this time a thick smoke was noticed to the south, supposed to 
 be a signal fire, which hastened their departure. They shoul- 
 dered their canoes and disappeared amongst the willows. The 
 Peels Eiver Indians continued with us) N.W. & by W-. 2, K 
 W. i, W.S.W. i, S.W. i, S.W. & by S. i, S.S.W. 2|, (passed 
 through a small channel on the right) W. ^, (joined main 
 channel) NW. i, W. 1^, S.W. & by S. I, where we encamped 
 for the night at ^ past 6 o'clock, the men greatly fatigued. 
 Islands, battures, and small channels increase in number as we 
 descend, and the navigation of the river is of course niore intri- 
 cate, but the bottom which we frequently touched is smooth 
 and gravily. The current continues strong, the banks are low 
 and covered with larger trees than we have seen on this river. 
 There are several places which can only be ascended with the 
 boat in spring, by poling, as there is no possibility of either 
 tracking or using ours.^ A warm and beautiful evening. 
 
 25th. A fine morning, we were off before 5 o'clock. S.W. 
 & by S. 1, W. & by S. If, (a channel on right) ST.W. & by K 2, 
 W. & by K 2, S.W. ^, S.S.E. I, S. & by W. IJ, W.S.W. 1\, 
 W & by S. If, ( a channel on left) S.W. & by W. -J, (small 
 channel or river on right, soft undermining banks, river nar- 
 row) S.W. 1, the river divides, suppose this to be the head of 
 the island mentioned by the Indians. Kept to the left, (the 
 smallest branch) S.W. & by W. 2, S. & by W. ^, S.S.E. f, 
 S. & by W. 1^, W. & by W. I, (channels on each side) S. W. 
 & by W. i, S.S.W. 1\, (joined the main channel) S. W. h 
 S.S.E. 1, (A river with clear water enters from the east^), S.S. 
 W. l-J, W. 1, (channel on right) S.W. & W. \, S.W. & by 
 S. 1-J, (another small clear river, siippose a branch of the 
 
 1. i.e., oars. 
 
 2. Probably Big Black river, entering the Porcupine from the south- 
 east. Murray has passed Salmon river, coming in from the north above 
 Big Blaok river, but does not mention it in his journal. ' For some 
 miles above its mouth,' says McConnell, the Porcupine ' divides around 
 numerous islands, and branching channels become so frequent that care 
 has to be exercised to select the right one.' McConnell makes the 
 distance from Eampart House to the mouth of the Porcupine, measured 
 in a straight line, about one hundred miles, and fully one hundred and 
 fifty by the course of the river. 
 
JOUEISrAI, OF THE YUKON 41 
 
 above enters from East) W. & hj S. 1, (channel on left) S.W. 
 & by S. i, S.E. & by S. ^ S. & by E. %, (lake on left) 
 S.W. & by S. ^, (Kiver again divides, followed the left) 
 branch) W. & by S. I, W.N.W. 1, W. & by S. i, S. ^ W. 
 h W.N.W. i, W. & by S. i, S. & by W. h (Eiver again 
 forks off, still kept to the left) W. & by S. ^, W.IST.W. 1, (a 
 lake on right) S.W. & by W. -J, (Went aground in a narrow 
 and shoal place, we were afraid we had taken the wrong branch, 
 but the P. Eiver Indian among us told us we would soon join the 
 main channel, all hands were forced to take to the water, and 
 dragged the boatover almost dry land, there was now no current) 
 S.W. & by S. i, S. & bv E. i, S.S.W. -J, W. i, KW. & by 
 K J. W. i, S.W. i, W.S.W. I KW. i, K & by W. i 
 N.W. & by Wl, W.N.W. 1, S.W. & by W. i, S.S.E. ^, S. & by 
 E. f, S.W. & by S. 1, (a small lake on left) W. i, W. & by 
 W. i, K & ij -vv. ^, W. & by S. i, N. i, IT.E. & by N. i 
 K W. & by W. f , W.S.W. i, KW. i K & by W. I S. & by 
 E. 1, E. & by E". I, (small channels on right) N.W. -J, N.W. 
 & by W.f, (The river was before us, and we had hard work to 
 shove the boat through, being almost closed up between the 
 banks, we had followed the wrong channel this time, again in 
 deep water) N. & by S. |, S. 2, S.W. & by W. i W. & by 
 ]SF. ^ (channel on left) W.S.W. 2, (A small river on left and 2 
 channels on right) S.S.W. |, W. ^, N.KW. |, (large channel 
 on right) W.'N'.W. 1, on rounding the point we saw four Indians 
 on the south bank who iired two shots as .we approached. The 
 water was shoal close in shore and on demanding which was 
 the best place to land, they said there was no occa'sion for us 
 to come ashore, as there were nohody there. You are there, was 
 the reply of the interpreter; they then said they had nothing 
 to give us, but on going ashore we found that they had some- 
 thing — to wit — the carcass of a large moose just killed. After 
 each receiving a small piece of tobacco, and being told the object 
 of our coming to their country, they became more communica- 
 tive, and gave us much information respecting the river, etc. 
 They said that they expected us last year, but after what the 
 Eat Indians told them, they gave up all hope of now seeing 
 us, but they were pleased we had come, so would all of their 
 nation, but there were other people (the ' Gens-du-fou ') farther 
 up the Youcon that would be angry. Not expecting us, they 
 
42 CAITADIAM- AECHIVES 
 
 were afraid when they first saw us, which was the reason they 
 did not wish ns to come on shore. The fresh meat was now 
 willingly traded for powder and ball, and after talking and 
 smoking for half an hour more we hurried on for the mighty 
 river, now close at hand, the Indians accompanying us in their 
 canoes — IST.W. & by W. 1 — One reach more. Sou'Sou West, | 
 of a mile, and we entered the turbid waters of the Toucon. 
 Having ascertained from the Indians that there was no high 
 land below, the bows of the Pioneer were turned up stream, and 
 all in good spirits at being so near home, we pushed on at a 
 great rate for some time following to the sou' west behind a a 
 island, but on reaching the upper end, we joined the main 
 channel, a*id met the full force of a Toucon current; that of 
 the McKenzie is nothing to it; it was with much difficulty — 
 at certain places — ^we could make any way against it with the 
 oars ; the banks are so overhanging, thickly wooded, and chocked 
 with fallen trees, that tracking wag equally laborious, and the 
 water too deep in most places for using poles. Some of the 
 men were sent ashore with axes and a passage made until we 
 rounded the point with the line ; after which we got on a little 
 better. Bearing to the south and sou'east another mile, we put 
 ashore at the entrance to a small lake at ^ past 9 o'clock for th'3 
 purpose of encamping, but the mosquitos seemed determined 
 we should not, we were congratulating each other on starting 
 at getting clear of Peels Eiver before the mosquito season, but 
 this is ' out of the frying pan into the fire.' I have been in the 
 swamps of Lake Ponchartrain and the Balize, along the Red 
 Eiver ( Texas )^ and most parts of that ' GuUinipper ' country,^ 
 but never experienced anything like this; we could neither 
 speak nor breathe without our mouths being filled with them, 
 close your eyes, and you had fast half a dozen, fires were lit all 
 
 1. Lake Pontchartrain, about six miles north of New Orleans. A 
 canal connects it with, the city and with the Mississippi. Balize, one of 
 the pilot-towns near the mouth of the Mississippi. Red river, the lowest 
 of the great tributaries of the Mississippi traverses Texas and several 
 other states. 
 
 2. Gallinipper, a large mosquito. Of uncertain origin, (the name, 
 not the mosquito) according to Murray's New English Dictionary. One 
 of the characters in Haliburton's ' Clockmaker ' is described as jumping 
 up ' a snappin' of his fingers, as if he wor bit by a galley-nipper.' 
 
JOUEWAL OF THE TUKOIT 43 
 
 around, but of no avail.^ Eather than be devoured, the men, 
 fatigued as they were, preferred stemming the current a little 
 longer, to reach a dry and open spot a little further on, if 
 which the Indians informed us. Another half hour's hard tug- 
 ging brought us to it, and we encamped on the bai^ks of the 
 X oucon. 
 
 I must say, as I sat smoking my pipe and my face besmeared 
 
 with tobacco juice to keep at bay the d d mosquitos still 
 
 hovering in clouds around me, that my first impressions of tha 
 Youcon were anything but favourable. As far as we had come 
 (2^ miles) I never saw an uglier river, every where low banks, 
 apparently lately overflowed, with lakes and swamps behind, 
 the trees too small for building, the water abominably dirty 
 and the current furious ; but I was consoled with the hopes held 
 out by our Indian informant, that a short distance further on 
 was higher land. 
 
 The trip from Lapiers House occupied eight days, but we 
 were much delayed by rain and adverse winds ; next summer the 
 river will be better known, and if the water is high, and 
 weather favourable, I have no doubt the trip will be made in 
 six days. The distance from Lapiers House to the Youcon is 
 (I calculate) four hundred and fifty-two miles ^ this, you will 
 say, is only guess work, it cannot be otherwise, there is such a 
 multitude of sharp points and windings which had to be guessed 
 at, that no one could be certain ; but I have been as accurate as 
 was in my power, and guess it will hereafter be found not far 
 wrong. I may have tired you by being over particular in noting 
 matters of no importance, but as aforesaid this book has to be 
 filled up and I have only followed the fashion of McKenzie 
 Kiver, and some other parts of the country — ^the great fire on 
 the Columbia, to wit — ^by making a long story out of wh&.t might 
 'be comprised in a common signed letter. 
 
 We arrived here all safe, on Friday June 25 th, on which 
 
 1. A new Commination Service miglit be coastruoted out of the 
 recorded utterances of Nortli American travellers on tlie subject of the 
 energetic and enterprising mosquito. W. W. Kirby, who journeyed from 
 Lapierre House to Fort Yukon about 1860, says that he encountered 
 ' myriads of the most voracious mosquitoes that I have met with in the 
 country.' 
 
 2. MoOonnell makes the distance 337 miles, as follows : Lapierre 
 House to mouth of Bell river, 30 miles; Bell river to Rampart House, 157 
 miles; Eampart House to Fort Yukon, 150 miles. 
 
44^ CANADIAir ARCHIVES 
 
 date was commenced the regular journal, but I shall here con- 
 tinue my narrative for the remaining days of the month, to 
 give you a more particular account of our first interviews with 
 the natives than is therein mentioned. 
 
 I^ext morning (Saturday 26th) I left with three men and 
 one of the Indians to explore the banks of the river for a site 
 for our Tort, and was guided by the Indian, who seemed to 
 take great interest and pride in showing us the best places, and 
 in describing the banks of the river above and below. We found 
 the land all too low, and with marks of being overflowed, except 
 two places to which he took us. The one chosen is decidedly 
 the most eligible, and answers luell only for the scarcity of 
 timber; it is a ridge of dry land extending about 300 yards 
 parallel with the river, and 90 yards in width ; the banks are 
 here as they are everywhere else as far as we have seen, sandy 
 and undermining, but there is a large batture in the river in 
 front, and above that an island of about a mile in length, which 
 sets the current out, and prevents it except perhaps in high 
 water, from cutting away the banks. Behind us is another and 
 larger ridge of high land but it is too far from the river. The 
 other place mentioned is about a mile farther up on the same 
 side of the river, where there is still higher land, but the banks 
 are composed of pure sand, the wood still scarcer than here, 
 and the small channel opposite, which passes behind the island 
 nearly closed up and in the fall quite dry. Having made the 
 best choice I could, we returned, and tracked the boat up to our 
 final encampment, had the goods and everything taken ashore 
 and placed in security for the night.^ After the Indians were 
 informed that we had decided on building here, two of them 
 left to inform their friends of our arrival in their country, the 
 two others remained with us, one of whom is a leader of a small 
 band of fourteen men, who, he says, obey him like his own 
 children, it was his father who died lately, and whose Death 
 Fire we saw on Porcupine river ; he often spoke of his father, 
 
 1. Murray elsewhere gives the position of Fort Yukon as three miles 
 ahove the mouth of the Porcupine, on tho oast bank of the Yukon. W 
 W. Kirby says 'about three miles/ McConnell gives the position as ' a 
 mile and a half above the confluence of the two streams.' 'Fort Yukon,' 
 he adds, ' which was originally one of the best built forts in the north, 
 is now (1888) a thing of the past, and with the exception of one of the 
 outbuildings, which has probe bly also disappeared by this time, has 
 been torn down to supply wood for the steamers plying on the river.' 
 
# 
 
 
 ',-^.i 
 
 • C, '• 3 
 
 
 
 344S— p. 45 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 45 
 
 and with great affection and sorrow, and sometimes so agitated 
 that he could scarcely articulate his words. The old chief, he 
 said, was once a great man and a great warrior, and would have 
 been happy to have seen the whites again (it was he whom Mr. 
 Bell saw in the camp of Eat Indians) that before his death he 
 spoke good words to his sons, and when he disobeyed his father's 
 last advice, he knew he would not live long, for three days and 
 nights his tears had been running, because he had no tobacco to 
 smoke upon his father's grave, but he was now made happy, for 
 he would take care of the piece I had given him. I told him to 
 use that, and some more would be given him for that purpose 
 when he left us. I gave him a knife for his services in showing 
 us the river, etc., and a present of comb and looking glass and 
 a little Vermillion with which he was greatly pleased. In the 
 evening, he and the Peels River hunter had some harranging, 
 exchanged dresses, and made good friends. 
 
 27th. The Sunday was spent by the men in pi:eparing little 
 bark cabins for themselves, and by the interpreter and I in 
 talking with the Indian leader, who gave very direct answers 
 to our numerous questions about the country, the natives, the 
 Eussians, etc. He was one of four Indians from the place that 
 had seen the Eussians the' previous summer, and described them 
 as did the others at Lapiers House, as being all well armed with 
 pistols, their boat was about the same size as ours, but, as he 
 thought, made of sheet iron, but carrying more people. They 
 had a great quantity of beads, kettles, guns, powder, knives and 
 pipes, and traded all the furs from the bands, principally for 
 beads and knives, after which they traded dogs, but the Indians 
 were unwilling to part with their dogs, and the Eussians rather 
 than go without gave a gun for each, as they required many to 
 bring their goods across the portage to the river they descended. 
 The Indians expected to see the Eussians here soon, as they 
 had promise'd to come up with two hoats, not only to trade but 
 to explore this river to its source. 
 
 This was not very £|,greeable news to me, knowing that wo 
 were on their land, but I kept my thoughts to myself, and deter- 
 mined to keep a sharp lookout in case of surprise. I found 
 that the population of this country was much larger than I 
 expected, and more furs to be traded than I had goods to pay 
 for. Mr. McKenzie and I divided the night watch between us. 
 
46 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 a rule laid down and strictly adhered to when Indians were with 
 us. 
 
 28th. Ahont 4 o'clock in the morning we were ar roused hy 
 reports of fire arms from the point below, and every one was. 
 on his feet in an instant, three shots were fired by us in return, 
 twenty canoes hove in sight around the point and soon paddled 
 up along shore until close to our encampment, all the Indians 
 joining in songs and most unearthly shouts. They remained in 
 their canoes without attempting to land until the Indian leader 
 spoke to them; as soon as they had collected on the bank (there 
 were fifteen men with their wives and families in all about 
 forty) their chief, a young man, commenced to harrangue, but 
 it was addressed to the Peels Kiver Indian, who replied at great 
 length in his own defence. The Loncheux of Peels river and 
 the Indians of the Youcon were at war a few years since, and 
 are not yet on the best of terms, it was concerning this and not 
 U3 the chie£ ,was talking. I gave each of the men three inches 
 of tobacco to smoke before we commenced with the speechifying. 
 They immediately formed into a circle and began to sing and 
 dance at a.,furious rate, expressive of their joy at seeing us, they 
 then brought from thei? canoes some fresh meat and a quantity 
 of dried fish, and laid it at the door of my tent and traded it 
 willingly for powder, ball and tobacco. As advised by the in- 
 terpreter I deferred saying much until the principal chief 
 arrived with another band which one of the Indians had gone 
 after. During the day two more Indians arrived from the 
 opposite side of the river, and in the evening another salute of 
 five guns was heard from below. Not approving of the practice 
 of wasting ammunition I ordered the men not to fire, but one 
 Indians monitor (the young leader) said it was the custom with 
 them, when they came in peace, to discharge their guns, aiid if 
 we did not return the salute, they might consider us to bo 
 enemies. Five shots were then fired in answer to theirs, which 
 was responded to from the fleet of canoes, now close at hand, 
 by yells and shouts that might hay,e ' struck terror to the soul 
 of Ki chard,' but we knew it was that of rejoicing. There were 
 eighteen men also some women and children in this party. They 
 hauled up their canoes a short distance below, and formed on 
 the bank in ' Indian file,' the chief in front, the women and 
 children in the rear, and danced forward by degrees until in 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 47 
 
 ]front lof the tent, where they "were joined by the first party, 
 formed into a large circle, with the two. chiefs in the centre, and 
 continued dancing and singing without intercession^ for up- 
 wards of half an hour. A small piece of tobacco, the same as 
 before, was given to each of those last come, and a larger piece 
 to the chief, a fine looking young man, easily distinguished from 
 the others by his eagle feathers and a greater profusion of 
 beads on his dress. Some more fresh meat was brought forward 
 and traded as before for ammunition and tobacco. The»princi- 
 pal chief then shortly addressed the Peels Eiver Indian, sup- 
 posing him to be our interpreter, and concluded by saying, he 
 'waited to hear the Whitq Chief speak.' "What I had to say 
 was all ' cut and dry ' and delivered by the Interpreter in sen- 
 tences, and after their owm fashion. I commenced by bringing 
 to their remembrance Mr. Bell's visit to this river three sum- 
 mers ago,^ when they were all absent. We had heard so much 
 from other natives, about their being a brave people and friendly 
 to the whites, and their country reported so good for furs and 
 provisions, that we had come with the intention of building a 
 Fort and remaining among them. We had sent messengers by 
 the men of the lakes, last winter, to warn them of our intention, 
 but these people had not told them the truth, they were, angry 
 at our bringing so niany things into this country, because it 
 would prevent them from trading the furs at so low prices — 
 that we had come a long journey, and had much trouble in 
 bringing the goods accross the mountains, still he would trade 
 with them at the same rate as at Peels River and other parts 
 of the country. I told them we were a different nation from the 
 Whites some of them had seen farther down the river last sum- 
 mer, these people only came once a year to take away their furs, 
 and cheat them with useless goods, what we brought were good, 
 guns, knives, and everything, else, and we meant to live always 
 amongst them, but this year, we had only brought a few goods 
 
 1. Evidently should read ' intermission.' 
 
 2. Dr. George M. Dawson says ' Mr. J. Bell . . . was in 1846 in 
 charge of the Hudson Bay post on Peel river . . . and was instructed 
 again to cross the mountains and to further explore the Porcupine river. 
 In pursuance of these instructions, he in that year reached the mouth 
 of the Porcupine and saw the great river into which it flows, which the 
 Indians informed him was named the Yukon.' It is clear from what 
 Murray here says, that Bell explored the Porcupine to its mouth in 1844, 
 not 1846. 
 
48 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 on trial, and if ttey brought us plenty of good furs, and wer.e 
 able to supply us with food, that more goods and more men 
 would be sent next summer, and we would build a large Fort 
 and reside always in their, country, and sunply them with guns 
 at twenty Beaver each, instead of twenty-five and thirty which 
 they had been giving to other nations, and the same quantity' 
 of beads for six Beaver for which they had given the men of 
 the lakes twelve and fifteen. After enumerating the articles 
 we had, their excellent qualities, and the rate at which they 
 were traded, I concluded by asking if they wished us to remain 
 and build here (several of the young men, regardless of Indian 
 etiquette, replied aha, alia (jes, yes) and if so, if they would 
 bring their furs to us instead of taking them to the other whites 
 (the Russians). 
 
 The principal chief, after being spoken to by several others, 
 walked to the front and made a speech, the longest I ever list- 
 ened tp,^ except, perhaps, a cameronian sermon, and some parts 
 of [it] equally far from the text. The interpreter could not 
 repeat one fourth of it. He began by telling us the bravery 
 of his nation, the extent of their country, the quantity of furs 
 they could bring, and the moose and Rein deer they could kill ; 
 and after a super-extra allowance of boasting and self praise 
 arrived at what I wanted to hear. He said the White chief had 
 spoken truth; they found now that they had been cheated by 
 the other bands, and would hereafter bring their furs to us; 
 they wished no more to see the ' twisted ' (the Bat Indians 
 under Grand Blanc) in their country, they had told them what 
 was not true, and they had given up hopes of seeing us, and 
 some of them were just preparing to go and meet the other 
 whites down the river, but they would not ; that they had not 
 so many furs at present, but would soon bring what they had, 
 as they much wanted beads and guns. He and his followers 
 were glad that we had come to their country and wished us to 
 remain amongst them and they would strive to supply us witl: 
 meat, and what other things we required. 
 
 The other chief (leader of the first party) spoke, to the 
 same effect respecting his band, they were all rejoiced to seo 
 
 1. McConnell had to suffer a long harangue, by Senatee, chief of the 
 Fort Yukon Indians. ' As time was precious,' he adds, ' the harangue 
 was cut short by the present of a couple of handfuls of tea, the probable 
 object for which it was made.' 
 
JOUKNAL OF THE YUKON 49 
 
 US and made great promises. I told them that I was pleased 
 to hear them talk so well, we had heard that they were great 
 hunters, and we had brought little to eat, depending on them 
 to bring us meat. That we much wanted dressed moose skins 
 for shoes, for we had brought none with us. Battishe^ for snow- 
 shoes in winter, parchment for windows for our houses, deer 
 skins and sinews, etc. That we would trade all good furs made 
 in winter or spring but not those killed in summer. We had- 
 this year very few beads and guns, and would only give them 
 for Martens, Beavers, Black and Silver Foxes. That anything 
 else we had, would be given for all other furs, except Eats and 
 Marinots.^ I then advised them to turn their attention to mak- 
 ing provisions and those things we so much required, and as an 
 ' earnest of future favors ' some tobacco ready cut. up on a board 
 was presented to them; very few of them had pipes, and I 
 noticed several chewing the tobacco and even swallowing the 
 juice. After smoking until several were completely intoxicated, 
 the young chief ' par exemple ' could not get up until a drink 
 of water was given to him, he said they were now very happy 
 and wished to have a great dance, but they had only black paint 
 at present if they had some red it would make them look much 
 prettier. A little vermilion and a present of a comb and look- 
 ing glass was given to each of the chiefs. They retired to where 
 the women had prepared an encampment with branches and in 
 a short time issued forth arrayed in all their fineries, and Com- 
 menced to a regular Break Down, all joining. Thirty-seven 
 men and a lot of women and children, only two of whom had 
 before seen the Whites. They danced a variety of figures 
 accompanied always with songs, and continued at it for nearly 
 two hours. I am partly wrong in saying -figures, with one ex- 
 ception they danced always in a circle, the only difference in 
 their steps, gestures, and songs, of which latter they have a 
 great variety.' After the hall was finished they retired to their 
 own encampment, but the singing was taken up, at intervals, 
 imtil morning. 
 
 1. The thongs forming the net of snowshoes. 
 
 2. Probably should read ' Marmots.' 
 
 3. ' The formal dance/ says Eichardson, ' is always in a circle, but 
 the gestures and the songs which accompany them vary.' 
 
 3448—4 
 
50 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 29tli. Little work was done by the men yesterday except 
 grinding and handling their axes. To-day we erected a tem- 
 porary store for the goods and provisions and a scaffold for 
 drying meat. One of the men was employed preparing a small 
 piece of ground for an experimental garden.^ The day was 
 showery and warm, and our fresh meat, now more than we 
 could use, beginning to spoil, several of the Indian women 
 were employed in cutting it up, for which they each received 
 an awl, and considered it great payment. I had some more 
 talk with the Indians, a few of them left to kill moose for us, 
 the others remaining and although inquisitive and often in our 
 way, were very hecoming in their manners, and offering to 
 assist in whatever had to be done. 
 
 30th. All hands except Mr. lIcKenzie, the Interpreter and 
 Myself went to the opposite island for bark, although there were 
 with us a good assemblage of as wild and savage looking fellows 
 as needs [be], I felt no more apprehension of danger than 
 amongst the slaves at Fort Simpson,^ they were too glad to see 
 us here to offer any violence, still it behooved us to be always 
 on our ground.^ In the afternoon the men returned with the 
 bark, had the store covered and everything removed into it, and 
 now secure from the weather. It was 24 feet by 14, built of 
 unhewn logs, and half open at the end facing the river, in the 
 
 1. As will be seen later, this garden was partially suooessfnl. ' While 
 in the possession of the Hudson Bay Company/ says MoConnell, ' some 
 gardening was done in the vicinity of the fort, notwithstanding the fact 
 that it is situated almost on the Arctic circle. Potatoes and other 
 vegetables were raised, and barley is reported to have ripened. On the 
 Mackenzie river, gardening ceases to the north at almost the same 
 latitude.' P. C. Sohrader reports that ' the more hardy vegetables are 
 grown on a somewhat large scale in the mission gardens at Nnlato,' some 
 distance below Fort Yukon. See Dr. Dawson's conclusions as to the 
 possibilities of agriculture on the Yukon, Geol. Survey, 1887-8, 24B. 
 Petroff notes that good potatoes have, been grown in certain localities in 
 Alaska for eighty years or more. ' The cereal crops,' he says, ' cannot 
 be grown in Alaska.' There was, nevertheless, 'exhibited at the Toronto 
 Exhibition in 1908, wheat of splendid quality, grown at Dawson, on the 
 Yukon. 
 
 2. The reference here is not to slaves as bondmen, but to the tribe of 
 that name. The Slaves belong to the Athapascan linguistic stock, and 
 inhabit the country about Slave river. Great Slave lake, and the upper 
 waters of the Mackenzie. Fort Simpson stands on an island at the mouth 
 of the Liard river, and is 'the headquarters of the fur-trade on the 
 Mackenzie.' See McConnell's description of the fort, fur-trade agricul- 
 ure, &c., Geol. Survey, 1888-9, 85D. 
 
 3. ' Guard.f 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 51 
 
 door way my own tent was pitched so tliat none could enter 
 in the night without my knowledge, the men's cabins were close 
 to it, each was provided with a loaded gun, my own gun and 
 those remaining from the box were also charged and ready at 
 hand in case of need. 
 
 The Indians who left yesterday returned with the meat of 
 one old, and one young moose killed this morning, which with 
 the skins they traded as before. In the evening two of the 
 ' Gens-du-fou ' arrived in their canoes from their lands farther 
 up the Youcon. They belonged to the band of the chief who 
 visited Peels Kiver in the spring ; it was them the other Indians 
 referred to as being angry at our coming here. Those two 
 brought nothing, but said they had come only to see where we 
 were building, that their people were encamped some days' 
 journey up the river, and would come here as soon as they 
 heard of our arrival. But the Indians here thought they had 
 come only to see whether we had pickets around our encamp- 
 ment, as liey did not speak well. The young leader cautioned 
 us to be on our guard when the band arrived, as they would 
 likely come in great numbers. The customary haranguing 
 commenced between them and those here, they said nothing 
 concerning, us in public, but were greatly displeased to find a 
 Peels River Indian with us, most unfortunately a great number 
 of their women had died lately, and many were sick when they 
 left their camp, one of their women had been stolen from the 
 Loncheux of Peels Kiver, and they believed that ' Vandeh ' 
 our hunter, to revenge the loss of said woman who was a relative 
 of his, had made medicine to kill them, and they now wished 
 to kill him that no more of their wives might die. Poor Vandeh 
 had been in hot water ever since his arrival here, and thought 
 now that his day was come, and talked of making tracks home- 
 ward, but I told him not to be alarmed, and leave me Xo speak 
 to them. I did not attempt to persuade them of the absurdity 
 of their belief, for all the tribes in this part of the country 
 believe as gospel, that certain individuals have necromantic 
 powers to cause the death of others, though a great distance 
 apart.^ B^ut I told the two foolish gentlemen that Vandeh was 
 
 1. On the shamans or medicine-men of the Alaskan tribes, and their 
 practices, see Ivan Petroff's ' Report on the Population, Industries and 
 Resources of Alaska,' 162, &c.; also W. H. Call's 'Alaska and ita 
 Resources;' Richardson's 'Arctic Searching Expedition,' I. 385. 
 
 3448— li 
 
52 CANADIAN AECiriVES 
 
 not a ' medicine man ' nor an enemy of theirs, but lie had come 
 "with us on purpose to speak for them, when they brought no 
 interpreter, and be their friend; that he belonged to us, and 
 while we were here none would be allowed to do him harm. 
 The other Indians were all present but took no part in this, as 
 they did not wish to displease the Gens-du-fou, who they say 
 are very strong, the two bands nearest this numbering upwards 
 of a hundred men. I had a long conversation with the two 
 strangers, and explained all to them the same as to the others, 
 made some inquiries respecting their trade with the Russians, 
 the strength of their party, etc., but received generally evasive 
 answers. I regretted much to hear that they were displeased 
 at Peels River last spring, they say that the person who traded 
 with them offered to kill their chief. The whole affair is this : 
 While I was absent on the trip to Lapiers House, Edward Mc- 
 McGillinay^ was left in charge of the Tort during which time the 
 Gens-du-fou arrived. I met them at Lapiers House and sent a 
 note by the chief to McGillinay with instructions to treat them 
 well, etc. While trading with them in the shop, he was showing 
 off to the chief, the way to stab a man, of course, only in sport, 
 but these Indians who are the most trifling and awkward to 
 deal with of all the northern tribes, took it in earnest and left 
 immediately, but these two here appeared satisfied with our 
 explanation. Another very annoying circumstance happened 
 at the same time, and was in direct opposition to my instruc- 
 tions : one of the Indians had twenty skins for which he wanted 
 a gun, there were none to give him, and he being unwilling to 
 take other goods, the interpreter promised to give him his own 
 gun when he came to the Youoon, and the furs were left. The 
 only way I could arrange this was to pay the interpreter for his 
 gun at Peels River, but he by accident broke his gun in the 
 spring and it was of no use bringing it here. I am now obliged 
 to keep a gun to pay a Peels River debt, rather than displease 
 these Indians, the furs were received and must be paid for. 
 While talking with them, I took good care to tell them that 
 we were all well armed, and being in a strange couiitry kept 
 guard every night, and advised them whom we considered our 
 
 1. Edward McGillivray. Many of this surname in the fur trace. 
 Richardson mentions a M'Gilliviay Island, a little above the estuary of 
 the Mackenzie — perhaps named after Edward McGillivray above men- 
 tioned. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 53 
 
 friends, when they came to see ns, to come during the day, for 
 if they arrived in the night, in fall or winter when it was dark, 
 we might take them for enemies. They were particularly 
 amused with my douhle barreled gun, I also showed them my 
 pistols which I took from my coat pocket, one of which (the 
 only one with a lock) I fired at, and hit, by chance, a stick 
 floating past in the river. They were greatly astonished at this, 
 so were the other Indians, and so was I myself, for it was 
 almost a gun shot distant. One of them offered to bring me 
 fifteen skins in Martens if I would give him the pistol, but ho 
 was told that we did not trade them, but kept them only for 
 self defence. After a deal more friendly discourse, I gave them 
 a piece of tobacco to deliver to their chief, and remind him of 
 his promise to me last spring, that he and his followers would 
 come here in the summer and bring a supply of dried meat 
 and geese. 
 
 It was past midiiight before our conference was broken off, 
 and I felt as tired of talking, as I do of writing at this moment. 
 I had got very little rest since our arrival, and was too fatigued 
 to remain longer, so I tumbled in for a good sleep, while Mr. 
 McKenzie took the morning watch. 
 
 Note. — One band of the ' Gens-du-f ou ' have, of late years, 
 had much intercourse with the Loucheux Indians, and many of 
 them speak the language, when a strange party of them come to 
 trade in the Loucheux country, they generally bring a person 
 to interpret for them, both of those here spoke Loucheux 
 fluently. 
 
 Our encampment on the Youcon was, barring the 
 mosquitos, a very pleasant place, much more so than 
 I expected to find on first entering the river, and I must 
 say that we passed the summer very comfortably, although in 
 the midst of a heathen land, and so far removed from civilized 
 country. Fort Simpson for instance, we Youconians consider 
 as a partly civilized place, and talk of it as you would of Eed 
 Eiver settlement. Eat Portage is to us what Portage la Loche 
 is to the [people ?] of the McKenzie, and we look upon Peels 
 Eiver as being near home ; but this is now our home, a home 
 in the ' far west ' with a vengeance. Not many years ago the 
 settlers in Wisconsin and Iowa thought they could go little 
 farther ; an editor of some newspaper published in these parts 
 
54 CAN-ADIAM' ARCHIVES 
 
 described his town as being so far west tbat it was almost on 
 the edge, but he knew not the Youcon. We are over the edge, 
 and that by a 'long chalk,' which I call six degrees of longitude 
 across the Russian boundary.^ Of late years the margin is con- 
 sidered, by folks wot don't know no better, to be the outermost 
 stretch, but what is that to the Toucon ? We are thirty-three 
 degrees farther west than the mouth of their great river, though 
 still on terra firma, and I wish it was our own, I mean the 
 Hudson's Bay Co.'s, at least for a term of years until we 
 thinned it of its superabundance of Beaver and Martens. 
 
 But I am wandering from my subject, it was to give you 
 some account of the first season on the Toucon that I have taken 
 up my pen. I have said our encampment was a pleasant place, 
 and so it was, quite a little village entertaining no less than six 
 dwelling houses, all built upon the Sabbath day, for which I 
 am not to be held accountable. They were made of willow poles 
 covered with pine bark, and fashioned according to the fancy 
 of their owners, some open at the end, some half open, and 
 others only with a small door. Besides these six houses, there 
 was a log store, also another cabin for containing dried fish, two 
 more scaffolds, and a garden measuring 12 feet hy 8 — said 
 garden was prepared and fenced out, and on the 1st of July a 
 few potatoes were planted, and it was my peculiar care and 
 pleasure to attend to it and have it duly watered in droughty 
 weather, never expecting, that at that advanced season the crop 
 could be brought to maturity, but to try by every means in my 
 power to preserve seed for the ensuing summer. 
 
 Our village was built on a small clearance or prairie of about 
 40 yards square, close to the river bank on the lower part of the 
 ridge of rising ground before mentioned :about 100 yards farther 
 up was the highest land and extending farthest from the river, 
 this was chosen for the site of our establishment, it was thickly 
 covered with pines and willows, and the men commenced at once 
 and had a large clearance made and the heaps of rubbish com- 
 mitted to the flames. On July 1st our regular operations were 
 begun and all hands constantly employed, still we got on very 
 
 1. As a matter of fact. Fort Yukon was a little over four degrees 
 west of tlie international boundary; th.e latter being long. 141°, and Fort 
 Yukon, according to Capt. C. W. Raymond, U.S.A., being in lat. 66° 33' 
 47", and long. 145° 37' 47". 
 
^illiiljuiLiLiUiu 
 N> — 
 
 UAH- p. 55. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKOIT 55 
 
 slowly, most of the men (the Orkney men)^ were green hands 
 with axes and could scarcely square a log, and it was seldom 
 but some of them were off duty by being [cut?] and lamed. 
 Except a few sticks, all the building wood had to be brought in 
 the boat from the islands opposite about f of a mile distant, but 
 owing to the numerous battures and the strong current in the 
 river, they had to go about two miles to reach the islands, and 
 more time was occupied in going and coming than in cutting 
 and squaring the wood. Plaving already formed great ideas of 
 the country, I determined on building a Fort worthy of it, we 
 are in an isolated corner of the country and cut off from all 
 communication with other posts at least for assistance, and 
 surrounded by hostile Indians, the Eat Indians are enraged at 
 our being here, the ' Gens-du-f on ' reported ditto, also those 
 down the river with whom the Russians have been trading, the 
 Russians themselves might give us battle, and I concluded on 
 making a convenient and substantial Tort, though it might take 
 longer time. A plan was drawn out and by it the building was 
 guided, but as the work is regularly noted in the public journal, 
 it is unnecessary to make any particular mention of it here, 
 none of us were idle, there was always enough to do for both 
 master and man. We were fortunate in having generally fine 
 weather but there were often gales of wind, thunder storms and 
 rain, the month of July was oppressively warm, the ther- 
 mometer ranging so high that it would not have disgraced the 
 tropics. I never before spent a* summer so far north and could 
 scarcely [have] credited others had I been told, that, on the 
 banks of the Youcon, not far from the Arctic circle, the ther- 
 mometer was, at 2 o'clock on the afternoon of July 10th, 90 
 degrees above zero — ^but of the weather anon; a meteorological 
 journal was kept from the 1st of the month of which you. shall 
 have a copy. We were seldom without visitors, and they did 
 not often come empty handed, we had always plenty to eat and 
 plenty to do so that none were allowed to weary. Geese and 
 ■duck were always passing, and now and then a Beaver would 
 clap his tail ' en passant ' before our levee. The woods behind 
 abounded in rabbits and partridges, and go which way one 
 
 1. From almost the beginiimg of its history, the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany has drawn largely upon the Orkneys for its men. 
 
56 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 would, if a good shot, he need not return without something for 
 the kettle. 
 
 We lived on good terms with the natives and feared nothing, 
 except to see two boat loads of Russians heave round the point 
 on a nocturnal visit from the Gens-du-f ou. 
 
 The natives on whose lands we are number about ninety 
 men, and are divided into three bands, the chiefs or leaders of 
 each with a number of their followers were here in June as I 
 have already noticed at length, the others were soon made aware 
 of our arrival, and in a month afterward I believe they had all 
 been here, and all were alike pleased to see us. They soon 
 brought us their furs, principally Beaver and Martens the 
 greater part of which had been brought up by the leaders and 
 a few of the rich men of the nation who were preparing to meet 
 the Russians dovsTi the river. Beads and guns were always 
 demanded and I had few to give them, and was anxious to dis- 
 tribute what I had as equally as possible amongst them. But 
 they were not satisfied with this mode of trading, they say when 
 the others go to trade with the Russians they get what they 
 ask for and expect the same here, while we had what they 
 required. ITotwithstanding the explanations and reasons given 
 we had some difficulty in pleasing all, they were however satis- 
 fied with our prices. Blankets, axes, knives, powder horns and 
 files went off readily enough, but it was hard to dispose of the 
 clothing, as they consider their own dresses much superior to 
 ours both in beauty and durability, and they are partly right, 
 although I endeavoured to persuade them to the contrary. I 
 could not give them the reason for bringing so few goods, that 
 we had brought only a few on trial, but more would be sent next 
 year, which was the only way to prevent them from disposing 
 of their furs elsewhere. 
 
 I may now notice some of the principal arrivals during 
 summer, by way of lengthening my yarn and giving you a cleaK 
 knowledge of our interviews with the other bands of Indians. 
 
 On tlie 6th of July the ' Letter Carrier,' chief of the ' Vanta 
 Kootchin ' (people of the lakes) arrived with twenty men. This 
 Indian is well known at Peels River having visited that place 
 annually since its establishment, he sent a message in the spring 
 that he would meet me here in the summer. They brought 
 some dried meat geese and battiche according as desired, but 
 the object of their visit was principally to receive some ammu- 
 
JOUEKAL OF THE YUKON 57 
 
 nition for the summers hunt and to see where we were build ingr. 
 The Letter Carrier said this place was much more convenient 
 for him and nearer his country than Peels Eiver, and he would 
 prefer trading here if I wished it, he had a debt at Peels Eivev 
 but had furs to pay for it. I told him he was at liberty to trado 
 wherever he chose, but that we had very little goods this year, 
 and he could get no advances except in ammunition, and as 
 there were plenty of Martens and Beaver in this country we 
 would trade no rats at least for the present, but if he canie hpvo 
 we would be well pleased, as Ve looked upon him and his people 
 as our particular friends, etc., etc. What they brought was 
 paid for in ammunition, tobacco, and knives, and a few of them 
 only got credit although they all asked for it. The Youcon 
 chief and his brother were here when the band arrived, and 
 next day they had a bit of a row, which nearly ended in blood- 
 shed: their quarrel was, as all their quarrels seem to be, about 
 the women. One of the Letter Carrier's party had taken to 
 wife a sister of the young chief, and he had heard that they had 
 killed her. The chief demanded payment in beads for his 
 sister's death, which was refused, and something said that in- 
 sulted him, when he drew his knife and walked boldly up to the- 
 others, who would soon have cut him to pieces but for our inter- 
 vention. A few words of explanation from one Indian Hunter, 
 who Avas acquainted with the merits of the case, brought matters 
 to a better understanding — the woman had not been killed, but 
 was drowned in crossing a river by her canoe upsetting, tho 
 Letter Carrier made the brother a present of a large Esquimaux 
 spear, valued ton skins, and friendship was again restored. 
 They remained here four days during which time a party of 
 YoueoD Indians arrived and we witnessed some of their great 
 dances, and gimnastic games between the two parties; such a 
 dancing and singing, leaping and wrestling, whooping and yell- 
 ing, I have never before heard or seen.^ This was always per- 
 severed in all night and although amusing to us at first, by 
 being continued became very tiresome, we could not sleep at 
 night for the noise they made, although requested by the men, I 
 
 1. Here, and throughout Murray's account of the manners anrl 
 customs of the Yukon Indians or Kutchin, comparison may be made with 
 ch. xii. of Richardson's 'Arctic Searching Expedition.' Richardson 
 drew largely upon Murray's journal and letters for his description of 
 the Kutchin. 
 
58 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 would not ask them to desist in case of giving offense: these 
 people consider it the greatest treat they can give ns, by carry- 
 ing on their games in our camp, they said they had not been so 
 happy for many years. We were heartily glad when they all 
 left, and allowed us to enjoy peace and quietness for a few 
 days. ISTo more of the Rat Indians (as the men of the lakes 
 are called at Peels River) arrived until the beginning of 
 August, when six others came here, two of them belonging to 
 ' Grand Blanc's ' party. They had a few Martens and Beaver, 
 and a large quantity of rat skins notwithstanding they all knew 
 that no rats would be traded here; but these fellows had debts 
 at Peels River which they intended to evade paying, and ex- 
 pected to receive payment for all they brought. I did not wish 
 to encourage any of the Indians to leave Peels River, particu- 
 larly those that were nearer to it than this, and refused to trade 
 their Musquash, because there were more other furs in the 
 Country than I had goods to pay for. They were greatly dis- 
 pleased at this of course, and two of them flung about forty 
 skins (480 rats) into the fire, but they repented of their rash- 
 ness next day. I gave each of them a few measures of ammu- 
 nition on credit, and told them when they arrived in the spring, 
 if there were any goods left they would be paid for the rats but 
 not otherwise, and since they had brought them so far, if we 
 could not pay for them that we would take them to Lapiers 
 House with the boat in summer where they might get them 
 when they went to Peels River. I am not certain whether you 
 will be pleased or displeased at my refusing to take rats here, 
 as that trade is so much encouraged at Peels River, but you 
 sent me to trade with the Indians on the Toucon and not those 
 belonging to P. River, and 30% or taking Martens at their 
 real value, 60% is surely better than 6%. I doubt the Hon. 
 H.B. Co. would pocket very few dimes by the profit of mus- 
 quash sent to England from the Toucon. The ' Letter Carrier ' 
 with nine of his followers again visited us towards the end of 
 August, he brought some good furs and a respectable supply of 
 dried meat, but very lean, he renewed his promise to make pro- 
 visions for us, after he went to Peels River to pay his debt, 
 and I am informed by letter from Mr. Perrs^ that he had been 
 there and squared his account ; he has always kept his promises, 
 
 1. Protably Perry. 
 
JOUEITAL OIT THE YUKOW 59 
 
 and none exert themselves more in trying to please us, in speak- 
 ing in onr favour. He is much respected by the v^hole band 
 on vehom we may have to depend much for provisions, and I 
 thought it best to present him with the Chief's Coat, which 
 he partly expected and with which he was mightly pleased. 
 After being dressed he made an eloquent speech to his follow- 
 ers and the others assembled ; it was partly in praise of us, but 
 more particularly of himself. He said some of the ' Kootcha- 
 Kootchin '^ would not before believe that he was a great chief 
 nor believe what he said respecting the White people, but they 
 (the Indians) now saw that he was looked upon as the greatest 
 chief of the country. The Whites had only one fine coat and 
 they gave it to him before any other, but they would not loose 
 by that, if he did not bring some good meat and geese in the 
 spring, there were no Carribeux in the mountains and he 
 would never again see a white man, etc., etc. He and his fol- 
 lowers left us in high spirits and with professions of everlast- 
 ing friendship. 
 
 It was early in August that a large party of ' Gens-du-fou ' 
 arrived. We had previously been informed of the sudden death 
 of their chief, whom I met at Lapiers House, a young man who 
 had great influence with the nation, and reports were circu- 
 lated by the Indians that his death was imputed to our being 
 here and also to the ' Kootcha-Kootehin ' ; before breakfast a 
 large fleet of canoes was discried rounding the upper islands, 
 there were no Indians here at the time, but we all knew it was 
 the Gens-du-fou, and as our Indians had repeatedly cautioned 
 us to be on our guard when this band arrived, it created no 
 little fuss amongst the men, some of whom, and the oldest 
 stagers, are the greatest cowards I ever saw, yet to hear them 
 talk when alone, one would think them to be the bravest of the 
 brave. All the canoes (twenty-five in number) soon appeared 
 in sight gliding down along the bank on account of the swell 
 
 1. KiGhardeon haa Kutoha-kutohi ; and Dall, Kutoliakutchin. Petroff 
 says the Tunakliotana and the Kutohakutchin, forming together the tribe 
 of Tnkonikhotana, inhabit the banks of the Yukon river from Tort 
 Yukon westward to Nulato. They are less nomadic in their habits than 
 their eastern neighbours, but are by no means numerous. Their dwellings 
 are built of logs and roofed with bark, and their summer garments are 
 of tanned moose and reindeer skins, while those for winter use are made 
 of reindeer, wolf and fox skins. Their tribal name signifies ' men of the 
 Yukon.' 
 
60 CAN-ADIAlSr AEC HIVES 
 
 in the river, but there was no noise nor singing as with the 
 other, they landed a little above our encampment assem- 
 bled in silence on the bank: I went forward and presented 
 each with the usual token of friendship, a small piece of 
 tobacco, and expressed my happiness at seeing them here. As 
 soon as I had stepped to the one side, they started off at full 
 race all in a body to the lower end of the encampment and back 
 again to their landing place, shouting and whooping in a 
 peculiar manner; they immediately formed into a half circle 
 and danced with great vigour for a few minutes, keeping time 
 with their outlandish songs. They had a very extraordi- 
 nary and wild appearance with their greesy dresses covered 
 with beads and brass trinkets, and long cloated hair fluttering 
 in the breeze. These fellows had pipes of their own, pipes 
 made of tin or sheet iron traded from the Russians, more than 
 half of them had brought nothing to trade, and the others had 
 comparatively little — six bear skin^, a few badly dressed but 
 otherwise good martens, some moose and carribeux skins, some 
 pieces of fresh meat, and upwards of 100 geese killed with 
 their arrows while ascending the river. They were settled 
 with easier than I expected but occupying most of the day as 
 everything had to be explained to them: They seemed to be 
 generally satisfied with our prices, but made great objections to 
 our powder measure as being too small, that their Whites (the 
 Russians) gave them a much larger quantity. I had some long 
 talk with them in the evening, the greater part of which was 
 concerning their trade with the Russians on the coast, of whom 
 I did not speak very favourably, and explained to them the 
 superiority of our goods and our juster mode of trading, and 
 said all I could think of to encourage them to come here with 
 their furs and provisions. I expressed great sorrow at the death 
 of their chief, and presented his brother, who appeared to take 
 the lead, with a foot of tobacco to smoke on the grass ; the mark 
 of respect to the illustrious deceased seemed to make a favour- 
 able impression on them all, and the chief's brother said he 
 now looked upon us as his friends, but some of them spoke 
 differently to the Indians next day. After breakfast of the 
 following day when the men were sent to their work, several 
 of the Gens-du-fou became very troublesome and impertinent, 
 handling and asking for everything they saw — one wished to 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 61 
 
 .lave the carpenters edge, another the tracking line of the boat, 
 and so on, and although they were told not to enter the store 
 two of them stepped over the small barricade while my back 
 was turned, and were examining the loaded guns in my tent, 
 they were again told to go out, which on their refusing to do, 
 I shoved one of them out by the shoulders, and the other fol- 
 lowed of his own accord in double quick time. They then 
 demanded guns, beads and axes on credit to be paid for in the 
 fall; this I refused telling them that we had few of these 
 articles this year, but that we never gave credit to any one 
 imless we knew them well. They said, the Eussians were once 
 the same, they would not give them what they wanted, but they 
 (the Indians) killed a number of their people and pillaged one 
 of their Forts on the coast, and ever since that they had been 
 refused nothing. I had before heard of their murdering some 
 Russians at a small outpost but took their repeating the 
 story here as a rather bold threat. They were answered that 
 if they attempted that here they would find themselves greatly 
 mistaken, that we were a different people from the Russians 
 and not so easily frightened, we were always prepared against 
 enemies, we did not come here without guns to defend our- 
 selves, and we did not mean to give away our goods for nothing, 
 but they would be well paid for what they brought, and if they 
 came as friends they would be always well treated. After some 
 more quibbling they professed to be our friends, still maintain- 
 ing that they could trade cheaper in several things from the 
 Russians than from us. Two of this party belonged to a band 
 called ' ]Sraheiy '^ who inhabited the country about the source 
 of Grand River,^ one of the others belonged to the upper band 
 of ' Gens-du-fou,' he had been at the Peely' and gave me a very 
 clear description of the upper part of this river and the adjacent 
 country. The day was wound up as usual with a great dance 
 in which the chief brother did not join, while the others danced 
 
 1. Ball's Nehannees. According to Petroff, the Nehannees, Tutchone- 
 kutchin, and other groups living on the uiiper Yukon river, between the 
 boundary and Fort Yukon, are members of the Han-kutchin tribe. They 
 are, he says, known to the traders as gens des faux. Dawson says the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's people applied the name Nahanie or Nahaunie 
 to a group of tribes, on the upper Yukon. 
 
 2. This is evidently the same river which Murray elsewhere calls 
 Gravel. Probably ' Grand ' is an error in transcription of the original 
 manuscript. 
 
 3. Peely, i.e., Pelly river. 
 
62 OASTADIAW AECHIVES 
 
 and sung lie retired to a distance and bewailed most pitifully 
 the death of his brother. Aftdr the men had retired to their 
 cabins, the chief brother, noticing that the Interpreter and I 
 were on guard, came forward and told us to go to sleep, some 
 of his young men, he said, had not spoken well, but they meant 
 us no harm, they were our friends and he would make them 
 all sleep with him at a distance from us. He was told that 
 we had no apprehension of danger from them, but it was a 
 custom of ours to keep watch always at night until we had our 
 Fort completed. They left next morning in peace and quite: 
 ness, with promises to return in the fall if they were success- 
 ful in hunting, but if not, they might not- again see us until 
 spring, when they returned from the mountains. Several 
 stragglers of this party came in between [then ?] and fall, with 
 fresh meat and deer skins, which they generally traded for 
 ammunition and tobacco, but we found them always more 
 troublesome and difficult to please than the Indians of this 
 place. The only other strangers, except one of the Eussian 
 hunters, that came here in the fall, were four men of the ' ISTey- 
 et-se-Kootehin,'^ a band of about forty men, whose country is to 
 the north of this near to the polar sea, they have never seen 
 either the Russians or our people. These four arrived in com- 
 pany with two Indians of the upper band, one of them had a 
 gun and what little meat they brought was given for ammuni- 
 tion. They said most of their people would likely visit us in 
 the spring on the last snow. They were easily settled with and 
 pleased with whatever was offered them. 
 
 These are some of the principal arrivals during summer 
 and fall, and enough to show you the way we were received by 
 the several bands, and the way they were treated by us. Very 
 few days passed without some Indians coming in, and any 
 amount of talking had to be done. One and all were treated 
 with uniform kindness and respect, at same-time teaching them 
 to respect us, keeping them always in their own place, and 
 never allowing the men to use any liberties with them nor make 
 any bargains whatever with them without permission. Some of 
 the men, particularly the Canadians, were greatly displeased at 
 the discipline I so rigidly enforced, having been accustomed at 
 
 1. Richardson's Neyetse-kutchi, and Natsit-kutchin of Petroff. Murray 
 elsewhere calls them gens de large. See previous note. 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 63 
 
 Peels Eiver while old Lapiers^ was in command to have too much 
 of their own way and trade geese and meat from the Indians 
 whenever they chose, this was strictly forbidden here. There 
 is nothing that spoils Indians so mnch as allowing them to 
 trade with the men, or become too familiar with them. The 
 men had no occasion to trade anything; never in the Indians 
 country were people better fed than here during summer and 
 fall; mostly fish and dried meat, nets were always set in th(i 
 river, and now and then we had a meal of fish, and often pem- 
 mican and fiour when the dry meat was bad, and the men had 
 hard work — ^but the more we have the more we desire, an adage 
 peculiarly adapted to the voyageurs of this country, they had 
 been accustomed to so good fare during summer, that latterly 
 they became very nice, and turned up their noses at dry meat 
 that a year ago at Peels Eiver would have been considered a 
 God send. 
 
 Privations are often endured in establishing a new country, 
 of which we have had several salutary lessons in this district, 
 the first year at Peels Eiver and the west branch, perhaps at 
 the present day, although little was known of this country, I 
 came here with no other idea than that we would be ably pro- 
 vided for. The trading of furs was the object of our being sent 
 here, and has received a due share of attention, but my energies 
 for the first season were more particularly directed to the pro- 
 curing of provision which if properly set agoing, and the 
 Indians encouraged at first requires less trouble in after years. 
 
 Both branches of the trade were as prosperous as I expected, 
 or could almost have desired with the means at my command, 
 and I assure you, that when ' gloomy winter ' showed his heavy 
 face, it was a source of great consolation and thankfulness when 
 I looked into the well filled store, to know that there need be 
 no hungry tellies at the Youcon. 
 
 Immediately after our arrival the fishing was commenced, 
 and nets set regularly in the river but with little advantage 
 until the beginning of September when the trout began to 
 ascend, but they lasted only about three weeks, during which 
 time the labours of two men and an Indian, with thirteen nets, 
 produced 1,380 fish. Our nets were made in good time, and 
 
 1. Old Lapiers, or Lapierre, after whom Lapierre House was name'}. 
 He is mentioned in some of John Bell's unpublished letters. 
 
64 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 was generally the occupation of the invalids, for it was seldom 
 but some of the men were cut and lamed. A Peels River 
 Indian who accompanied us from Lapiers House was engaged 
 to assist the fisherman, and Indians paid to show the different 
 lakes around. The first trial was in a large lake to the south- 
 west of this, but with no success ; they then went to a chain of 
 small lakes or rather a deep river^ a day's journey farther on, 
 where the Indians make dried fish in summer. They remained 
 there until the water fell too low, 600 large white fish were 
 caught and placed ' en cache,' but on seeking for them in fall 
 they were found to be eaten by the wolverines. After the river 
 fishing was at an end some small lakes to the IST. West (a day's 
 journey from this) were tried, and 460 large and excellent 
 fish were taken which we got home in safety by the dog trains. 
 "^Vhen winter set in we had over 1,800 fish in store, which has 
 been of great assistance, but we may not always be so well sup- 
 plied with other provisions, and I hope, if you send me a good 
 fisherman, to have a larger stock next fall, jag the lakqsi are 
 now better known. The trout taken in the river are, I don't 
 know exactly what. They are not fresh water trout, neither 
 are they salmon trout, although they belong more to the latter 
 species. They make their appearance in August, but are not 
 plentiful until the beginning of September, when they ascend 
 the river in immense shoals ; when they first make their appear- 
 ance they are tolerable eating, have a silvery tinge on the back 
 and upper part of their sides, the belly is of a dark brown and 
 green, andjthe lower part of the .side,? 'Maejrbat bsfore they 
 disappear towards the end of September, they loose their bright 
 color, are soft and lean, and of a strong rancid taste. The 
 men get tired of them in a few days if served out constantly 
 for rations. They have a large head and mouth, the upper and 
 under jaws are much crooked inward and teeth like the fangs 
 of a rattlesnake, they are altogether a very ugly and ferocious 
 looking fish ; they weigh from 4 to 7 lbs. each. I took a draw- 
 ing of a large fellow in the fall and now copy it to shoAV you 
 what sort of ' critters ' are in the waters of the Youcon. There 
 is another and smaller kind without teeth, a smaller head and 
 still more crooked snout, they are of a transparent scarlet color, 
 the flesh is red like the salmon and similar to it in taste and 
 
 1. Probably Birch or Discovery creek. 
 

 3448— p. 64. 
 
JOUKNAL OF THE YUKON 65 
 
 quality ; only a few of this latter sort are taken, and then only 
 at the last of the season. The real salmon also ascend this 
 river, and are the first to -make their appearance, one only (and 
 a small one) was taken in our nets, but the Indians kill a num- 
 ber every year by barring the smaller channels of the river and 
 setting willow baskets constructed for the purpose. Several 
 large salmon, dried, were traded from the Indians, a piece of 
 one I sent you in winter which I hope you received, from the 
 appearance of them when dried I would suppose them to weigh 
 from 15 to 20 lbs., some very large ones are said to be some- 
 times caught by the Indians. There are several kinds of white 
 fish here as elsewhere, but we have them generally larger than 
 common, some of them weighing 6-| and 7 lbs. Those taken 
 in the lakes are large and of a superior quality, three are suffi- 
 cient for a man's daily allowance, the river trout are dealt out 
 in the same way. Pike are plentiful in both lakes and river. 
 Inconnu and Loche are found here the same as in the McKen- 
 zie. The salmon and trout are said by the Indians to be better 
 lower down the river, and far up they are very lean and often 
 found dead on the beach, which ihay be the effect of their long 
 journey from ^e sea. They do not decend the river until the 
 ic£ begins to set fast, but then follow the main channels and 
 very few are taken. So much for the Fishes} 
 
 The building and other work was pushed forward as quickly 
 as possible, but the dwelling house was not made habitable until 
 the end of August when we all removed into it, appropriating 
 two rooms for the goods, furs, and provisions. We got into the 
 house just before the cold weather commenced, and although the 
 rooms were in an unfinished state we felt very comfortable after 
 being so long in the open air. 
 
 The store was finished in October 25th, that is the walls 
 and roof, and we had much difficulty in covering it from the 
 
 1. Murray's ' ferocious looking fish ' with ' teeth like the fangs of a 
 rattlesnake/ is the King salmon (Oncorhynchus chonicha) ; the ' smaller 
 kind, without teeth, a snialler head and still more crooked snout,' is 
 probably the Humpback or Dog salmon {Oncorhynchus kisutch) ; and 
 his ' real salmon ' is, as far as one can judge, the Red salmon 
 {Oncorhynchus nerka). The inconnu {Stenodus mackemii) is first men- 
 tioned- by Mackenzie in his ' Voyages.' The loche is Lota maculosa, 
 variously known as the methy, loche, ling, maria, losh and burbot. All 
 these fish are found in the Yukon, and are minutely described in Edward 
 W. Nelson's ' Report upon Natural History Collections made in Alaska, 
 1877-1881.' 
 
 3448—5 
 
66 CANADIAN Archives 
 
 bark being too dry and brittle, the most part of tbe roof was 
 made water tight, but it will again require to be covered on 
 our return from Lapiers House. !, 
 
 The idwelling house and store was all the building that 
 could be completed, and although it might sound to you, that 
 little work was done for the time and number of hands, still if 
 you saw it you would think otherwise. Had we squatted down 
 in the first point of a good timber, and begun a fort like some 
 of your outposts, it might have been completed in the same 
 time, but we are far from large timber, and building on a more 
 extensive scale than usual, both house and store are substan- 
 tial and well finished work. The other buildings and pickets 
 will be the same and everything carried out in conformity with 
 the plan drawn out, and when the Fort is finished, as I hope it 
 will be next fall, I calculate on it being the best and strongest 
 (not excepting Fort Simpson) between Ked River and the 
 polar sea; it will occupy some time and require more labour, 
 but a good fort may be needed here before many years. The 
 dwelling house is 46 x 26 feet containing five compartments — 
 a hall in the centre, an office or sitting room and a bed room in 
 one end, assistants room, and kitchen in the other. It is built 
 of well squared 8 inch pine^ logs, the partitions are also of 
 squared and closely jointed logs, ball proof, and as we had no 
 pickets around in the first season, small loop holes were made 
 on each side of the hall neatly fitted with blocks of wood which 
 can be ope"ned at pleasure from the rooms, and used for mus- 
 ketry in case the Indians should attempt to play us the same 
 trick they did to Mr. Campbell and his party at Duses Lake.'' 
 The store is only 40 feet in length at present, but an addition 
 of 16 feet is tQ (be) made next season for a fish store, etc. The 
 men's houses will be the same length 56 feet containing three 
 rooms, one of which is intended for a carpenter's shop, etc. 
 
 1 . Murray's " pine ' must have been spruce, as pine does not grow 
 in this locality. 
 
 2. Dease lake. In Robert Campbell's own narrative he says, ' On 
 returning to Cease's lake, we passed a winter of constant danger from the 
 savage Russian Indians and of much suffering from starvation. We were 
 dependent for subsistence on what animals we could catch, and, failing 
 that, on ' tripe de roohe.' We were at one time reduced to such dire 
 straits that we were obliged to eat our parchment windows, and our last 
 meal before abandoning Dease's lake, on 8th May, 1839, consisted of the 
 lacing of our snowshoes.' 
 
o 
 
 
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 ^^ 
 
 
 
 :aju.i^ 
 
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 3^ 
 
 J/t/Z 
 
 -f^ 
 
 
 
 L_.........j y 
 
 
 
 
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 _i 
 
 JH-L 
 
 ^ ^ tS AJi<j. ^,.. <2^ /'ffi' .^f_M*^i'»/'*r 
 
 V 
 
 -'--£ 
 
 Lt'-.j ^7....-V^- 
 
 Ff 
 
 a 
 
 Plan of Fort Yukon. 
 
 •.Hi>i—\,. t;7 
 
JOURNAL Of the YUKON 07 
 
 A house or shed capable of containing two boats is to be erected 
 at the end of the men's houses and a meat scaffold as at Fort 
 Simpson at the end of the store. The pickets will not be pointed 
 poles nor slabs, but good sized trees dispossessed of their bark 
 and squared on two sides to fit closely and 14r| feet in height 
 above ground, 3 feet under ground, making a solid wall of 9 or 
 10 inches at the bottom and 6 or Y inches at the top, secured to- 
 gether by being morticed into a solid frame along the top, and 
 the same in the foundation. The bastions will be made as 
 strong as possible, roomy and' convenient. When all this is 
 
 finished, the Russians may advance when they d d please. 
 
 Although the building was finished for the first season, 
 there was no want of work both in and out of doors : The houses 
 had to be plastered and innumerable little jobs done before they 
 were made comfortable for the winter. Hoots for boat timber 
 had to be found and dug up before the ground was frozen, saw 
 logs cut and brought from the islands before the river set fast, 
 birch wood, for meat and wood sleds and snow shoes to be 
 brought from a great distance, fire wood to be cut, our fish to 
 be brought home, and a thousand other things which kept us 
 all constantly employed. Indians continued to arrive with both 
 furs and provisions, more furs than I could pay for with the 
 goods they wanted, but not so much meat as I expected, a large 
 party of Indians had been at war with another band (the people 
 of the Shade) ^ down the river, and of course had little time 
 to make provision. On their return a numbei of furs* 
 
 and I had much difficulty in settling with 
 
 them. They did not object to our prices, but all de- 
 manded beads, the few remaining lbs. were divided amongst 
 them, and one of the guns; when it was known that 
 we had no more beads their furs were kept back, some of 
 them were left with us to be kept till next year and paid for in 
 beads, but I had guite enough of this mode of trading at Peels 
 Kiver. They were told that we would take care of their furs 
 •until next year, and trade with them only when the goods 
 arrived. I however promised that we would have more beads 
 next season, and advised all those who had furs in cache not to 
 
 1. Biohardson's Testsfe-kutchi, ' people of the shade ' or ' shelter.' 
 
 2. Several words missing here in manuscript. 
 3448—51 
 
68 CAN-ADIAIf ABCHIVES 
 
 dispose of them elsewhere. With this party was an Indian of 
 the ' People of the Butes,'^ who had been Fort Hunter to the 
 Russians, he brought nothing with him, but came, I suppose, 
 out of curiosity. The Eussians had again been on this river, 
 at their former rendevous about the same time or 'perhaps a 
 little after we arrived; I heard this in August, and was put. 
 out of suspense at the time of being much troubled with them 
 that season. They brought plenty of beads and took away a 
 great many furs. Here it is very different, furs were brought 
 in and could not be traded, and it was a vexatious thing to see 
 therEi taken back for want of goods. The box x)f beads were 
 gone, the box of guns ditto, except two guns kept for the 
 defence of the place, the roll of tobacco was on its last legs, and 
 our shop, except cloth and ammunition nearly empty. The 
 ' Gens-du-fou,' distant Eat Indians, and one of the bands from 
 below had all promised to come here in spring, and having 
 nothing to settle with them, I determined on sending to Peels 
 Eiver for a roll of tobacco and some knives to be taken from 
 the year's outfit, as dogs had to be sent at all events to bring 
 the boat rails and other articles indispensable for our spring 
 operations. The men with five dogs and two sleds were dis- 
 patched for Lapiers House on November 21st in good time for 
 the letters to reach Peels Eiver before the departure of the usual 
 winter packet. An Indian acquainted with the country was 
 engaged to accompany them and promised if the weather was 
 favourable to take them to Lapiers House in fourteen days. 
 The men and dogs were provisioned for fifteen days, and the 
 men received a little ammunition in case of accident or being 
 detained by the weather. The men were eighteen days on the 
 winter trip to Lapiers House, and nineteen in returning with 
 their loads. On going up they were delayed one day on 
 account of the weather, but I have since learned did not hurry 
 themselves, as the Indian who accompanied them supplied them 
 
 I.Richardson's Tanna-kutchi, or 'people of the bluffs;' Petrofi s 
 Tennankutchin (Mountain men), or Tennan-tnu-kokhtana (Mountain 
 River men), occupying the mountainous basin of the Tennanah river, 
 an affluent of the lower Yukon. The Tanana, it is now spelled, literally 
 Tenan-na or Tenan river, said to mean River of the mountain men. It 
 was known to the men of the Hudson's Bay Company as Gens des Buttes 
 river. According to Petroft, it is the most important among tributaries 
 of the Yukon in size and beauty. It empties into the main river about 
 thirty miles below the Ramparts, say 290 miles below Fort Yukon. 
 
JOURNAL Of the YUKON 69 
 
 well with fresh meat, they had been complaining while at 
 Lapiers House of my stinting them with provisions, but if they 
 could come down with loaded trains in 19 days, they could 
 scarcely go up light in 15. 
 
 ISTot many days after the packet was sent off (on November 
 27) I received very unpleasant news, and had it been in my 
 power, would have sent off another letter to inform you of it 
 at the time, but no more men could be spared, nor were pre- 
 pared to undertake the journey so as to reach Lapiers House in 
 time. The young chief arrived in the evening and informed 
 us of, the arrival of two Indians from the lower bands with 
 men from the Russians. They had been sent to the Indians 
 here with messages from the Russians who w6re passing the 
 winter at the mouth of the river they descended, had a large 
 stock of goo'ds with them, were trading at much lower prices 
 than formerly, and had better goods than us. The Russians 
 were trying to incite the Indians here against us by telling 
 them, th^t it was on account of our being in their country that 
 so many of them had died in summer, that we were bad people, 
 etc., and inviting the Indians to go to them with their sick 
 friends as they had medicines to cure all diseases, that they 
 were sorry they had not been able to keep their promise with 
 the Indians here and visit their country in summer, they had 
 been unfortunate in having necessary boats built, biit next sum- 
 mer they would meet them farther up the river with plenty of 
 goods. The Russians had taken the most effective plan to work 
 upon the credulity of the Indians here, and I was greatly morti- 
 fied to hear from the young chief that some of his followers 
 believed what "they' had said and intended to go down with 
 their furs by the first open water. I sent for one of these 
 Russian Indians who was remaining with the lower band and 
 heard a repetition of the whole story before several other 
 Indians. 
 
 I had a long talk with them in presence of the stranger, ani 
 fook good care to give the Russians a ' lick back ' in their own 
 coin. I explained particularly the motives that induced our 
 opponents to send these messages, the cause of their lowering 
 their prices, and succeeded in persuading them of the absurdity 
 of the idea of our causing the death of their people, instead of 
 that we were their best friends, and had brought medicines to 
 
70 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 keep them from dying, etc. etc. etc., as for taking their furg 
 below in spring they were their own masters, and could dispose 
 of them to the Eussians if they chose, but if they did so they 
 would be sorry for it afterwards, assuring them that more goods 
 would be brought here in summer. The Indians present seemed 
 willing enough to hold on until next season, still a few days 
 afterwards, a lot of beaver were sold to the Eussians Indians 
 for fancy beads, an article they could not procure from us and 
 which they value above everything else. 
 
 When I wrote you in November, I had no idea of being 
 troubled with the Eussians until the following summer, but 
 here they were, wintering farther down on the same river, with 
 plenty of goods, and trading at prices far below our tariff, and 
 endeavouring to set our own Indians against us ; the receipt of 
 this intelligence was very disheartening to me. I have been 
 accustomed to the strongest kind of opposition while in the 
 south, and would like nothing better, as I love a row, than to 
 have it again, but I should wish also to have the means of com- 
 peting. 
 
 But here we are far across the Frontier, and with little but 
 promises to give the Indians. But before saying much on this 
 subject, and having partially narrated our doings until the end 
 of November, I may as well bring you to the end of the year. 
 The month of December passed off more slowly than any other 
 since our aTrival, we had fewer hands, but I need not enumerate 
 the work done. We saw no Indians except those in our imme- 
 diate neighbourhood, who brought in now and then some rab- 
 bits, and sometimes a few lynx skins, and we paid in ammuni- 
 tion and tobacco. The rabbit of this country are fully larger 
 than about Fort Simpson, and the quantity we received suffi- 
 cient for rations from three to five days in the week throughout 
 winter. Christmas and the 1st of January were, as in other 
 parts of the country, kept as holidays, and passed off quietly 
 and respectably enough, though with- myself about as dull a 
 new year as I ever spent, my usual high spirits being brought 
 to a very low ebb, by the recent intelligence received of )the 
 Eussians. 
 
 The first time the Eussians came to this river, was the year 
 before Mr. Bell was here, and ever since then (for the last four 
 years) they have come regularly during summer with a boat, 
 
JOUENAL OB THji> YUKON 71 
 
 and traded with several of the lower bands. Of the first two 
 years, little is known by the Indians here, of their third visit 
 I have already informed you of all I know, their anxiety to 
 procure dogs from the natives, and giving so high prices for 
 them, convinced me at the time I heard of it, of their deter- 
 mination to extend their trade on the Yoiicon. Last summer 
 they arrived as usual at the same place, the mouth of a large 
 river they descended, which falls into the Youcon, perhaps, by 
 the windings of the river, 350 miles below thig.^ They intended 
 to have brought two boats, and proceeded farther up the river, 
 not only to trade with the Indians, but to explore the river to 
 its source. They had not been able to get the necessary boats 
 built, but promised to be better prepared next (this) summer. 
 The boat they had was almost the same size as ours, and made 
 of, which our Indians informant describes as dressed parch- 
 ment, similar to the men's carrying straps which he saw here. 
 Last summer they brought more goods than formerly, princi- 
 pally beads, common and fancy, white, red, and several shades 
 of blue. The common white beads were usually traded higher 
 than with us, of the blue beads a little larger than a garden 
 pea, only ten were given for a beaver skin, except kettles, guns, 
 and powder, every other article was higher than with us. 
 Tobacco and snuff were traded very high, also the small shells, 
 some of which you sent me from Ft. Simpson, but I am not 
 aware of their proper name,^ these are traded in this country 
 6 and 8 for a beaver or three martens, a box of these shells here 
 
 1. The Eussian post of Nulato stood on the north hank of the Yukon, 
 a' few miles below the mouth of the Koyukuk, and about 400 miles from 
 the mouth - of the main river. The ' large river ' here referred to is 
 evidently the same which Murray elsewhere calls Eussian river, and 
 which is mentioned under that name in Sir John Eiohardson's ' Arctic 
 Searching Expedition.' Murray's confusion of the lower Yukon and the 
 Koyukuk will be dealt with in a later note. His letter to Eichardson, 
 quoted in the introduction, makes it clear that he afterward discovered 
 his own error as to the course and mouth of the Yukon. 
 
 2. Dentalium and Arenioola shells. ' The dentalium,' says Petroff, 
 ' was an ornament much prized by men ' and women. This shell did not 
 exist in the Eussian possessions, but was imported from the British 
 colonies north of the Columbia river. ... At the time of Davidof's visit 
 to Kadiak, in 1802, the price of one pair of these shells was a whole parka 
 of squirrel skins. Davidof relates a tradition of the Kaniagmute to the 
 effect that in the country of the Thlinket, far to the southward, there 
 was a lake from which the dentalium or hyqua shell was obtained, the 
 moUusks being fed with the bodies of slavey thrown into the water, a 
 story evidently invented by the Thlinket to enhance the price of this 
 commodity, of which they had a quantity.' 
 
72 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 would be worth over two thousand pounds. Besides the above 
 mentioned articles, the Russians bring to this country blankets, 
 capots, cloth, (of the latter two almost none are traded) powder 
 horns, knives, fire steels, files, iron hoops for arrow heads, iron 
 pipes, common arm bands, awls, rings, and small brass coins 
 similar to our old farthing, with which the Indian women 
 fringe their dresses, they bring no regular axes, only a flat 
 piece of steel shaped something like a plane iron, which the 
 Indians fasten to a crooked stick with battiche, and use it as 
 we would an adze, they say, and very likely have, other articles 
 which I have not seen. They have both fine and common guns, 
 but our guns are always preferred to theirs; formerly they 
 brought only sheet iron kettles but last summer I am told they 
 had copper kettles the same as ours. The Indians here being 
 at war, last summer, with the lower bands, prevented any 
 intercourse between them, and was the cause of our not hearing 
 sooner than in IvTovember, of these particulars. It seems the 
 Russians had left or were about to leave on their return, when 
 they heard of our arrival hei-e; they immediately set about 
 building a house ; this finished, one or two men were left with 
 the remaining goods, while the others returned to the portage 
 with the boat, and as they had plenty of goods in winter, very 
 probably some more were sent in the fall. Their prices were 
 lowered at once, kettles, knocked down from twenty to ten skins 
 each, common guns to ten skins, above a pint of powder given 
 for a measure, and beads and other things, above a half cheaper, 
 and cloth which they cannot dispose of, given for nothing. The 
 inaster himself is the person that remains below in charge of 
 the house, it was he that sent the rascally message to our 
 Indians, and if he ventures up this length in summer, as he has 
 promised, I think it very probable that he will! get his head 
 broken for his trouble, but they are the last people I wish to 
 see here, as should they come we will certainly get into a scrape. 
 I have told the Indians here, that, after our building is finished, 
 perhaps next fall, we will go down the river to whore the Rus- 
 sians are, and will likely build another Fort there. I circu- 
 lated this report merely that it might reach the Russians, and 
 perhaps be the means of preventing them from coming farther 
 up the river for the present. Their means of communication 
 with the coast is merely as I informed you last spring, but with 
 

 
 
 \^l r 
 
 \ 
 
 3448— p. 72. 
 
JOUENAI, OF THE YUKON 73 
 
 a portage, instead of the rivers being connected by a lake. I 
 have seen two Indians who were at the Fort in the coast and 
 acquainted with the inland route, I had them to describe it to 
 me and chalk it down on the floor. The river they ascend from 
 the coast must as far as I can judge fall- into Norton Sound, or 
 perhaps Kotzebues Sound, but I think the former, as there were 
 two large vessels at anchor while the Indians were there, and 
 I am not aware that ships are sent regularly through Behring 
 Strait. At the mouth of this river is a large Fort, a short dis- 
 tance above there are strong rapids, and farther up is a small 
 trading Fort which has been established for many years, above 
 it are falls and farther on mountains, on the other-side of which 
 passes the river that falls into the Youcon. They trade their 
 goods across the portage in winter with dogs, and have a house 
 on this side, from which they descend to the Youcon with a 
 boat in summer ; this river must flow in a north east direction, 
 as is described as being larger than Porcupine River (that, wo 
 descended). Two or- three years since a boat came down 
 another river (but not so far as its mouth) that joins the You- 
 con a great distance above this, this river flows from the south, 
 is very deep and with little current. The Indians were not 
 acquainted with its course but discribed distinctly enough where 
 it joined the Youcon, a large lake where one of its branches 
 takes its rise. The Russians have also been on the head waters 
 of this great river, not so far down as the forks of the Lewis 
 and Pelly but below the ' Great Lake ' the place I have marked 
 as shown by the Gens du fou, but I am not aw[are( 'tlhlat they 
 come there regularly.^ 
 
 1. Russian trading establishments and explorations on the Yukon 
 have already been discussed in the introduction. The river falling into 
 Norton Sound or Kotzebue Sound, as Murray supposed, was evidently the 
 Kuskokvim, which, however, empties much farther south. The descrip- 
 tion fits the Kuskokvim. The small trading fort would be Kolmakof 
 Redoubt, an old Russian trading post, about 200 miles above the mouth 
 of the Kuskokvim. The first establishment here was built by Ivan Simon- 
 son Lukeen in 1832. It was partially destroyed by the Indians in 1841, 
 and rebuilt by Alexander Kolmakof. The mountains referred to are the 
 Kuskokvim range, and the river beyond, the Tanana, Murray's River of 
 the Mountain Men. The portage from the Kuskokvim to the Yukon is 
 by a series of small lakes and streams, at the point where the two rivers 
 most nearly approach each other. No large Russian fort ever existed 
 at the mouth of the Kuskokvim, but what Murray heard of from the 
 Indians was probably Alexandrovsk, at the mouth of the Nushagak, 
 built under the orders of Alexander Baranof in 1818 or 1819. It is more 
 difficult to explain Murray's references to Russians on the upper Yukon 
 
74 
 
 CANADIAN ABCHIVES 
 
 This is all I have been able to ascertain respecting the Rus- 
 sians trading on the Youcon, and quite enough to show that it 
 is well known to them. They discovered it here, that is below, 
 a year before Mr. Bell, and very probably were also ahead of 
 Mr. Campbell on its upper branches, of their trade there I know 
 little, but below this, from what the Indians say, they have 
 carried oS an immense quantity of valuable .peltries. 
 . I will now attempt to give you a short account of this great 
 north western valley and its inhabitants. Since my arrival 
 here and also while at Peels River, it was my study to obtain 
 from the different bands of Indians a description of their respec- 
 tive lands and rivers, and by questioning so many and compar- 
 ing the several statements, I have been able to form some idea 
 of the course of the Youcon and other rivers, of which hitherto 
 very little was known, and to make it more plain, I have drawn 
 out a ' sort of map} which you can lay before you while you 
 peruse the following brief but imperfect account. The country 
 between this and Peels River I have partly described as far as 
 my own observations went: the courses of Rat and Porcupine 
 
 waters. A referfenoe to the accompanying map — much of the data for 
 which Richardson evidently got from Murray — shows the confusion that 
 then reigned as to the relative positions, directions, &c., of the Liard, 
 Lewes, Pelly and Frances rivers. The ' Great Lake ' may have been 
 simply the Pacific, or one of the great channels along the coast, confused 
 in Indian reports. The Russians may have ascended the Stikine, and 
 portaged over to Dease lake, though this latter is hardly prohable. It 
 may or may not be significant that' the Indian name for Dease lake is 
 Too-tsho, ' Big Lake,' and Dease river, Too-tsho-tooa, ' Big Lake River.' 
 Teslin lake would, however, more accurately meet Murray's description. 
 Richardson shows both ' Great lake ' and ' Russian Rendevouz ' on his 
 map, and says in his narrative : ' The Lewis flows from a large sheet 
 of water, lying within the Englisli boundary, but nam^d the Russian 
 lake, because Mr. Roderick (sic) Campbell . . . met there a party of 
 Russian traders.' In Simpson's ' Narrative of the Discoveries on the 
 North Coast of America' (pp. 172-3), it is said that Campbell 'met on 
 the banks of a river called the Stikine ..." a great concourse of Nahanie 
 Indians, assembled round a party of Russians. The latter ascend the 
 river in boats to a cataract far within the British lines .... There 
 were a number of men, commanded by four ragged, drunken officers, who 
 spoke a few broken words of English.' This account is so circumstantial, 
 and evidently obtained from Campbell himself, that one is at least safe 
 in assuming that the Russians ascended the Stikine, whatever or wher- 
 ever the Great Lake may have been. 
 
 1. This map has unfortunately disappeared. It is probable, however, 
 that we have the substance of it, with Murray's later corrections as to 
 the course of the Yukon, in the map accompanying Richardson's ' Arctic 
 Searching Expedition.' On this map will be found many of the names 
 applied by Murray to rivers, lakes and mountains in the Yukon country. 
 A reduced tracing of a portion of this map accompanies this journal. 
 
Y6 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 ' Gens du fou ' who had been at the Pelly were here in summer, 
 and with them another Indian belonging to the ' Men of the 
 Forks ' (a band near to the forks of the Lewis and Pelly) who 
 had two years before been at the Great Lake the principal source 
 of the river; they described the Porks of the Lewis and Pelly 
 where Mr. Campbell had been, the Lewis River and the house 
 on the west side of the mountains near Prances Lake where 
 some of their people had traded deer skins.^ To fix a. point 
 for the forks of the Lewis and Pelly, I have marked where I' 
 conceive, from a perusal of some of Mr. Campbell's documents 
 while at Fort Simpson, Frances Lake to be situated. The Pelly, 
 alias the Youcon, alias the Colvile,^ takes it rise from a large 
 lake to the south of the forks of the Lewis and Pelly and it is 
 most probable, if it is near where I have placed it, that Frances 
 River is one of its principal feeders. ITothing was known of 
 the extent of the ' Great Lake ' (as it is called) by the Indian, 
 he had only been there, and made mention of the Russians 
 having come a short distance down the river from the Lake and 
 traded with a band of Indians at the place I have marked 
 Russian Boundary. . The course of the river from the Pelly 
 downwards as drawn by the Indians is to the north west, and 
 at one place passes between high rocks or ramparts from which 
 the Indians there derive their name. The next river of any 
 importance is ' Red Island River ' which joins it from the north 
 west,' there is only one mountain between its source and that 
 of Peels River, therefore Peels River does not take its rise from 
 near Mount Traffic as has been supposed. The river to the 
 north of Frances Lake that is known to flow in a north west 
 direction, must therefore be, although it may take a circuitous 
 route, the Lewis,* as there is not extent of cduntry enough in 
 
 1. Campbell's Glenlyon House, built in 1840, and afterwards known as 
 Frances Lake House or Fort Frances. 
 
 2. As already stated, this serious error was afterward corrected by 
 Murray. 
 
 3. Probably Stewart river, whose headquarters approach those of 
 Peel river. The direction is, of course, entirely wrong. No stream rising 
 near the source or headwaters of Peel river could join the Yukon from 
 the northwest. 
 
 i. Here and elsewhere in Murray's narrative, his references to the 
 Lewes and the Pelly must be transposed. He has confused the two 
 streams. His Lewes is the Pelly, and his Pelly the Lewes. Richardson's 
 map makes same error. The lake which Murray mentions as the source 
 of the Pelly (Lewes), is doubtless Teslin lake. Both narrative and map 
 give Frances river as connected with the Pelly (Lewes) by the Gieat 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 77 
 
 any direction to create so large a body of water as the Lewis is 
 described to be. Between" the Lewis and Red Island Eiver is 
 a flat and barren prarie or desert which the Indians take four 
 days to traverse on foot, during summer they have to carry 
 water for the journey as none is to be found when they usually 
 make the portage. Farther down on the Youcon, another rivei- 
 of considerable size enters from the east/ and below that is the 
 de.ep river with little current on which the Eussians made their 
 appearance with a boat and traded with the Indians, one of its 
 branches, as already described, comes from a large lake, and no 
 great distance from that another river flows in the opposite 
 direction, which I take to be Comptrollers River.} The Youcon 
 flows on through the extensive country of the Gens du fou to 
 the north west, making several large turns and being joined 
 by several streams from the mountains on each side, it may 
 probably cross the boundary about Latitude 64, or just as likely, 
 farther to the north.' About sixty or seventy miles above this 
 place, it passes a ridge of high mountains, where are steep rocky 
 b'anlcs, these are called the ' Little Ramparts,'* from that to 
 where we are, it runs through a low and flat country, continuing 
 in the same direction and making fewer bends than before, three 
 miles below this it is joined by Porcupine River, proceeding 
 onwards to the north west for a good distance it again cuts its 
 way through the same range of moufltains it passed above.^ 
 Below they are knovra. as the ' Big Beaver Mountains,'^ it then 
 takes a ' Grand de tour ' to the north, and must run nearly 
 north until its confluence into the sea. About two days' journey 
 from the Big Beaver Mountains its waters are increased by the 
 
 Ijake (Teslin). This is, of course, altogether wrong. Prances river form- 
 ing the upper waters of the Liard. Murray's Frances river would seem 
 to be the Stikine, warped out of position by confused Indian reports. 
 
 1. Klondike river, probably. 
 
 2. That is, the river flowing into Comptroller's Bay, now known as 
 Copper river. The river Murray had in mind may, however, have been 
 the Chilkat. ,, 
 
 3. The Yukon crosses the international boundary, according to C. A 
 Schott, in 64° W 51 ». 
 
 i. Lieut. Sohwatka describes the Cpjjer Ramparts of the Yukon as 
 beginning at. Old Fort Selkirk (built by Robert Campbell, in 1848, at the 
 •confliience of the Pelly and LewesJ and extending downstream some 400 
 tniles. 
 
 5. The Lower Ramparts, beginning a little above the mouth of Tanana 
 river and extending up the Yukon 100 miles. 
 
 6. Tanana hills. These appear as the Big Beaver mountains on 
 Richardson's map. 
 
V8 CANADIAN- ARCHIVES 
 
 ' River of the Mountain Men,'^ a large body of vi^ater. . It enters 
 from the south and runs nearly parallel with the Youcon ; this 
 ■ river is famed for its abundance of Beaver. Next comes what 
 I have marked Eussian Kiver, as being that they descended in 
 the summer, which I have particularly described. At the mouth 
 of this river the Russians have wintered and are now estab- 
 lished.^ Below that, very little is known by the Indians here, 
 I have only seen one man, who in former years had been to trade 
 with the Esquimaux, you have it nearly as I had it from him, 
 with another river to the east and making a large bend to the 
 east before it falls into the polar sea, where it assumes its 
 modern name of Colvile. The Indians here have very little 
 idea of courses, but show distinctly enough the windings of the 
 river and where other rivers join it. Had I not known whore 
 the Colvile was, and gone by their account, I should have 
 .placed the mouth of the Youcon much farther to the west, and 
 at a greater distance from us than it possibly can be. The river 
 opposite this is about 1^ miles broad, but so thickly studded 
 with islands, that in one body it would be much narrower, the 
 current is much stronger than that of the McKenzie, the water 
 generally not so deep, but difficult to navigate from the numer- 
 ous battures, shoals, and channels. The banks on each side are 
 low, of a sandy soil, and easily cut away by high water, and to 
 ascend the river by a 'boat, except with a sail and strong aft 
 wind, is a most laborious and tedious business. The lands on 
 each side, here, is comparatively low, with innumerable small 
 lakes and swamps many of which have the appearance of being 
 the former channels of the river. Large islands are now being 
 swept away, while new battures appear to be forming, there are 
 not so many islands further dovni, but the river is nearly of the 
 
 1. Tanana river, which joins the Yukon from the soiitheast about 
 long. 152°. As already mentioned, this native name is said to mean Eiver 
 of the Mountain Men. 
 
 2. Nulato, below mouth of Koyukuk river. Murray may, at this 
 time, have confused the Indian accounts of the Koyukuk, lower Yukon, 
 and Kuskokvim — the lower Yukon or the Kuskokvim being his Russian 
 river, and the Koyukuk what he supposed to be the Yukon. No doubt 
 the Indians traded with the Eskimo on the Koyukuk, but they certainly 
 did not descend to the Arctic by way of the Koyukuk and Colville, the 
 headwaters of the two rivers being a hundred miles apart. The Colville 
 drains into the Arctic near long. 151°. Although the accepted spelling 
 is as above, Murray's ' Colvile ' is really more correct, the river having 
 been named by Dease and Simpson, in 1837. after Andrew Colvile. of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 'JQ 
 
 same description; where it passes between tlie Big Beaver 
 Mountains it is much narrower and the current very strong. 
 We are in the centre of the country belonging to the ' Kootcliin- 
 Kootchin ' (People of the low lands) low enough land in all 
 conscience ; ion every hand are small lakes, swamps and creeks, 
 along the margins of which are interminable thickets of willows. 
 The dry land (and where it is dry it is dry, being of a sandy 
 soil) is mostly open, or having a small birch and willows, the 
 only wood of importance is along the banks of the river or on 
 the islands. To the northwest, west and south we are sur-' 
 rounded by lofty mountains varying from 40 to 100 miles 
 distant, those to the south and siouth west are seen distinctly 
 from this and have a very rugged appearance. Beyond them 
 to the southwest as far as the Indians know it is all a moun- 
 tainous country. From the mouth of the ' Eiver of the Moun- 
 tain Men ' to the polar sea, the land is said to be very low and 
 swampy and thinly wooded. The country on the north of Por- 
 cupine Eiver, between the Youcon and McKenzie, is described 
 as being generally of the same nature as in the vicinity of Peels 
 River, where there are no mountains Acre are lakes and 
 swamps. Prom the Eamparts on Porcupine River commence 
 the Carribeux Mountains, they extend all along to the mouth of 
 the McKenzie, they are smooth and barren, unless the moss 
 and spare tufts of heather be considered verdure. The lands 
 towards the sources of Porcupine and Peels Rivers are of a 
 different nature, and the mountains rocky. I have seen two of 
 the ' Naheiy ' Indians, a band who inhabit the mountain" 
 towards the source of Gravel River,^ and ascertained a little 
 respecting its source. One, and the longest branch, springs 
 from a lake, and the others from amongst the moimtains, ho 
 says it is much nearer from the head waters of Gravel River 
 to Frances Lake than to the upper part of Peels River, there- 
 fore there is littlu chance of effecting a communication between 
 
 1. Gravel river, a tributary of the Mackenzie, which it joins above 
 Fort Norman, about long. 125°. Its headwaters approach those of 
 Macmillan and Stewart rivers, tributaries of the Yukon. In 1898-99 
 prospectors wintered on the upper waters of the Gravel, and crossed by 
 the pass at its head to the waters of the Stewart, reaching Dawson about 
 June, 1899. The river is laid down on the 1899 map of parts of the Yukon 
 Territory and Mackenzie district in 1908 from s.ketch maps prepared i-y 
 these prospectors. It was surveyed for the first time by an officer of the 
 Geological Survey. 
 
80 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 this and the McKenzie from that quarter. Between this and 
 the forks of the Lewis and Pelly, the country is reported to be 
 similar to what it is here, hut better wooded, the river also bears 
 the same character, rapid with many shoals and battures, and 
 difficult even for canoes to ascend. 
 
 I think there could be no better location for a trading estab- 
 lishment on this river than where we are: We are, as it were, 
 in a central part of the country and within reach of five different 
 bands of Indians, and I would calculate on, — ^but the Russians 
 being so near us have played th& devil with all my calculations 
 — I mean to say, that had we no opposition I could reckon with 
 almost a certainty on over 300 men trading regularly here. 
 This country abounds in all the various discriptions of fur 
 bearing animals common in other southern districts, except 
 Fishers. Otter are very scarce or the Indians kill few of them, 
 but for beaver it is inferior to no other country, martens do not 
 appear plentiful in our immediate neigjibourhood, still the 
 Indians kill great numbers, Foxes the Silver and Cross pre- 
 dominating, are very numerous, wolverines are also very plenti- 
 ful, the large gray wolf is often seen, and there are too many 
 Lynx for the rabbits to continue long as abundant as they have 
 been the past winter. We have the Black, Brown, and Grizzly 
 Bear, the latter kind are most abundant and infest the moun- 
 tains to the south and south west and the intervening country, 
 they are large and of the same ferocious nature as those in the 
 south, very few are killed by the Indians, who avoid meeting 
 them as much as possible, the bear generally riiaking the first 
 attack, and unless there are a good party of Indians together 
 to give battle they generally make their escape in their canoes 
 or by ascending trees. For moose, I believe this country to be 
 unequaled during the spring (March and April), it only rp- 
 quires a good hunter and a gale of wind to kill an animal when 
 it is required. Rein deer frequent the high lands about the 
 Ramparts of Porcupine River, four days' journey in winter 
 from this, only the large discription of Rein deer are found 
 on the mountains to the south.^ We have any quantity of rab- 
 
 1. In connection with the various fur-bearing animals found ty 
 Murray in the Yukon country, . reference may be made to Nelson's 
 ' Report upon Natural History Collections made in Alasika, 1877-1881,' 
 and to Petroff's ' Alaska,' p. 55, et seq, with his interesting series of 
 maps illustrating the range of the different fur-bearing animals. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 8 J 
 
 bits, and as for fish I have already given you a particular 
 account. The soil is of a dry and sandy nature, the best suited 
 for agricultural purposes in a cold country like this, how far it 
 will be successful I cannot yet. tell, but wo are about to givo 
 it a fair trial. I begin to fear the summer season is too short, 
 the few potatoes planted after our arrival (on July 1st) wero 
 allowed to grow as long as the season permitted, and taken up 
 on the 13{h of September, after the rivers were blackened by the 
 frost. Only ten potatoes were planted, but cut in pieces as 
 usual and our whole crop was nearly a gallon, varying in size 
 from a pea to a partridge egg, only about half a dozen of the 
 largest has kept over winter, although kept in the house in dry 
 sand and packed around with dry moss. The balance of the 
 potatoes brought with us, were placed in a keg filled also with 
 , pure sand, the best preservation for decay, in order to preserve 
 seed in some way or_ other, in examining said potatoes in the 
 fall— lo and behold, they had brought forth young, and nour- 
 ished them with the juice of their own bodies, for they could 
 draw precious little from pure sand. Ground is now. being 
 prepared and in a day or two more they will be planted and 
 some barley sown, also the other seeds you were so considerate 
 as (to) send me, and may God grant us a genial summer say 
 I, though it should only be for the ' tators,' for I would fight 
 with the pigs for them. 
 
 As- for cattle, hay could be found for a thousand head, and 
 without much trouble, there are swamps, which in fall, lare 
 waving with long grass around us in every direction. 
 
 The population of the country from the Pelly to the Polar 
 Sea — I mean along the Youcon and its tributaries — is from 
 what I can ascertain close upon 1,000 metij or men and boys 
 able to hunt,^ for women and children it would be needless to 
 
 1. See Richardson, I, 397, to same effect. Eichardson, in fact, here 
 follows Murray's journal almost word for word. The spelling of tribal 
 names differs in some oases. Richardson has Artez-kutchi, this copy- 
 reads ' Arlez-Koochin ;' Richardson reads Tathzey-kutchi, this copy 
 ' Fathzei-Kootohin ;' this Tratzh-kutchi reads ' Frawbsee-eootchin ' here ; 
 and his Zdkd-thaka or Zi-unka-kutchi, becomes ' Teeathaka ' or 
 ' Tecunka-Kootchin.' To some extent these differences may be attribut- 
 able to difierent readings of the original manuscript; and as Richardson 
 no doubt had opportunities of hearing the" names pronounced by Bell and 
 others who had been to the Yukon, it will be safe to assume that his 
 versions are substantially correct. ' Arlez,' in this copy should no doubt 
 
 3448—6 
 
82 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 make inquiries, I suppose there is a reasonable proportion. 
 Having only seen three men who had been as far up as the 
 Felly, I could get little knowledge respecting the tribes about 
 the Lewis and Pelly and towards the Great Lake, but between 
 the Pelly^ and the coast are a band called the ' Arlez-Kootchin ' 
 (Tough or hard people) numbering about 100. The ' Tchu- 
 Kootchin ' (People of the water) are also about 100 men, they 
 inhabit the country about the sources of deep river and to the 
 west of it. On the banks of the Youcon below the Forks of the 
 Lewis and Pelly are the Tathzei-Kootchin ' (People of the' 
 Eamparts) there are only about 20 men in this band, these 
 with the others above mentioned trade with the Eussians on the 
 coast. Between them and the lands belonging to the natives 
 of this place are the ' Han-Kootchin ' (People of the water) 
 known as the Gens du fou, this is the largest band of any here-, 
 about, there are in all 230 men. They^are divided into four 
 bands, the uppermost one is the ' Prawtsee-Kootchin ' (People 
 of the Forks) the Gens du fou inhabit a great extent of coun- 
 try, from the sources of Porcupine and Peels River to those of 
 the River of the Mountain Men ; they often visit the Russians 
 on the coast, but frequently trade with intervening Indians. A 
 few of them used to go to Peels River, last spring there were 
 16 men, and here in the summer and fall we saw a good many 
 but what they brought was of little value. The Indians- here 
 are the ' Kootcha-Kootchin ' (People of the low lands) they 
 are divided into three bands and number in all 90 men. Farther 
 down the river are the ' Teeathaka ' or sometimes called the 
 ' Tecounka-Kootchin ' of course (the people of this side, or 
 the middle people), there are only 20 men, and like those here, 
 
 read ' Artez ;' ' Fathzei ' should be ' Tathzei ;' ' Frawtsee,' ' Trawtsee ;' 
 'Teeathaka,' 'Zeeathaka;' and ' Tecunka/ ' Zecunka.' Such mistakes 
 in the transcription of initial letters in manuscript may, of course, very 
 easily be made. Apart from these differences, Richardson's versions 
 probably represent what he believed to be the more exact sound of the 
 Indian names. So far as the numbers of men and boys in these various 
 bands are concerned, Murray's figures may be compared with those of 
 Chief Factor James Anderson, whose- 1858 census is reproduced in 
 Dawson's Yukon Report (Qeol. Survey, 1887-8, 206B). Anderson gives 
 the number of those fraquenting Fort Yukon, Lapierre House, and Fort 
 McPherson, as 1179, but this includes women and children, so that if the 
 two estimates are even approximately correct, there must have been n 
 considerable loss of population in the decade. 
 
 2. As before stated, all these references to the Lewes must be taken 
 to refer to the Pelly, and vice versa. 
 
^^^-^^: 
 
 ^J^^ 
 
 ^^S' 
 
 3448 • p. 82. 
 
JODBNAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 83 
 
 except a few that may have seen the Eussians none had any 
 intercourse with the Whites. To' the west of these are the 
 rannm-Kootchm' (People of the Butes) upwards 100 men, 
 and farther down about the Forks of the ' Rv^sian River ' ara 
 the Teytseh-Kootchin ' (People of the shade or shelter), about 
 100 men. These last two deal regularly with the Russians, and 
 have since the first appearance of the Russians below been in the 
 habit of trading the furs from the Indians of this place. To- 
 wards the mouth of the river there are two other bands, usually 
 called the ' Tlagga-tsilla ' (Little Dogs) a nafae given by the 
 Indians here; their number is not known, but is supposed to 
 be considerably upward of a hundred men. It is believed that 
 they have not seen the Russians, and dispose of what furs 
 they may make to the western Esquimaux at the mouth of the 
 river. The country around Porcupine River, bat principally 
 to the north of it, belongs to the ' Vanta-Kootchin ' (People of 
 the lakes) known at Peels River as the distant Rat Indians, 
 about 80 men. The ' Letter Carrier ' their chief with perhaps 
 a third of his followers have traded at Peels River ever since 
 the Fort was built. The ' JSTeyetse-Kootchin ' (People of the 
 wide country) are almost^ the same band with the others, as they 
 have no particular leader^ of these there are about 40 men, none 
 of whom except four that were here in fall ever saw the Whites!. 
 The Indians that may be reckoned on to trade here, are the 
 ' Kootcha-Kootchin.' about a hundred of the ' Gens du fou,' the 
 ' Middle Band,' the ' Gens du Laye,' and perhaps^ fifty of the 
 ' Men of the Lakes ' — say 300 men — but if it were known that 
 we had plenty of the goods most in demand, that is beads and 
 guns, I would calculate on many more resorting to this place.^ 
 But I must give you a more particular discription of the 
 natives of this part of the world. The Loucheux Indians and 
 those here speak the same language, there is some difference in 
 pronunciation and a few words altogether different, but they 
 are easily understood by the interpreter.' The Middle Band 
 and People of the Butes speak the same. The- Indians to the 
 
 1. On the language and bonds of consanguinity and afRnity of tTit- 
 Loucheux and Kutchin, as well as on the meaning and application of the 
 latter name, consult Ball's ' Alaska and its Eesouroes/'Petroff's ' Alaska,' 
 Gibbs' ' Notes on the Tinneh or Chipewyan Indians of British and 
 Bnssian America,' in Smithsonian Report, 1866, and Dawson's ' Yukon 
 Report,' in Geol. Survey, 1887-8, 203B. 
 
 3448—61 
 
84 CANADIAN AKOHIVES 
 
 west and south of us, between (here) and the coast, have a great 
 difference in pronunciation, but they all understand each othei", 
 and it is undoubtedly the same language that is spoken all over 
 the country between the mouth of the McKenzie and Behring 
 Straits (except the Esquimaux along the northern coast) they 
 call themselves, as do all other tribes, the People ' Kootchin ' 
 at Peels Eiver the word is pronounced plain, here the n is scarc- 
 ely articulated, and frequently only Kooichi. To the west and 
 south west there are the Tchuktchis and the Tchukatchis, these 
 last our Indian's call the Tchukootchins (People of the water), 
 it is the same word, if I remember rightly TchuMches is the 
 name given the inhabitants on the opposite side of Behring 
 Strait, there is a band to the west of the same name, and there 
 is little doubt but they are originally the same people. 
 
 The ' Gens du fou ' speak differently, their language is a 
 mixture of the Loucheux and JSTawhawny, and is nearly the 
 same as is spoken towards Frances Lake, a number of the Gens 
 du fou, those farthest north understand the Loucheux well.' 
 
 The dress worn by all I have seen is nearly the same, the 
 only difference being in the fashion of wearing the 
 hair and some of their ornaments.^ They wear a capot or shirt 
 of dressed deer skin, pointed in front and behind something 
 like the tails of a dress coat, a broad band of beads is generally 
 worn across the breast and shoulders, and behind a fringe of^ 
 fancy beads, and small leathern tassels wound round with por- 
 cupine quills and strung with the stones of a white berry com- 
 mon in the country. The ' leather garment ' is simply a pair 
 of deer skin pantaloons, secured by a narrow band around the 
 lower part of the body ; a strip of beads about two inches broad 
 is worn on each side of the trousers from the hip to the ankle, 
 bands of beads are fastened around the legs and ankles. The 
 shoes and pantaloons are of the same piece, the stripes of beads 
 on the legs are in alternate squares of red and white, but fre- 
 quently only single fringes are worn, and those who are poor 
 use only porcupine quills. Beads are worn in every shape on 
 the breast and shoulders and sometimes immense rolls of all 
 
 1. On the dress and ornaments of. the Kntchin, the method of dressing 
 the hair, clothing of men and women, the arms, lodges, &o., compare 
 Richardson, I, ch. xii ; Strachan Jones' ' Kutchin tribes,' in Gibbs' 
 Notes, previously cited; Dall's, and Petroff's, Alaska; and Kirby's 
 ■ Tourney to the Youcon,' in Smithsonian Report, 1864. 
 

 
 
 
 I- ■ ■ >-- 
 
 >.._ "■ '/t 
 
 
 ' ' l' 
 
 -~:.. .^,: -y:-^-^. I 
 
 ^'' 
 ■^i' 
 
 . - . .-' 1 \ ■ . I I ' 
 
 '/if/ »; 
 
 3448—11. 85. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 85 
 
 colors for necklaces. The head bands are made of small and 
 various colored beads and small shells (the same as those yon 
 sent me), those shells are always used in the nose, and hung 
 to the ears. The hair is tied behind and wound around with 
 shells. Their mittens which they always carry Jire ornamental 
 with them, they even have them fixed to some of their guns. 
 Each man has hanging to his neck two small bags containing 
 black lead and red earth for painting themselves (their faces), 
 each one paints according to his own fancy, most commonly tbo 
 upper parts of the cheeks and around the eyes are black, a black 
 strip along the top of the ndse, the forehead is covered with 
 narrow red stripes, and the chin with strips of red and black. 
 Eagle and hawk . feathers are stuck in the hair behind, and 
 removed only when they go to sleep or to be used when dancing. 
 The ' Gens du fou ' and lower Indians mix their hair with red 
 earth, greese and the down of geese and ducks, by continuing 
 this from their infancy the tail attains an immense length, often 
 as large as the head, and becomes so heavy loaded as it is with 
 beads and shells and accumiilated dirt, that the neck is bent 
 forward, and gives the Indians the appearance of stooping. 
 Their arms are the common bow and arrows and the Eussian 
 loiife and dagger and spear. Their knives are made of iron, 
 but the fancy handles and fluted blades are of more value to 
 them than the temper of the knife ; they complain of ours being 
 too hard and the difficulty of -sharpening them. The quiver is 
 worn on the left side by a string around the shoulders, untili 
 lately very few had guns, but they are now in great demand, 
 of the 90 men who compose the band, only 12 of them have 
 guns, but many more carry powder horns, which they procure 
 from other Indians, and all carry ammunition when they can 
 get it, and have a share of what is killed by the owners of the 
 guns. The winter dress is a rabbit skin capot and deer skin 
 trousers dressed with the hair on, the hair is always worn next 
 the skin. Their dress clothes are always carried with them and 
 put on at night whether here or in their own lodge. The women 
 dress nearly the same as the men, only the capot is a leetle 
 longer, and with no point in front, they have fewer ornaments 
 and the hair is seldom tied. Each family is provided with^ a. 
 deer skin lodge, the hair is always kept on for warmth in- 
 winter, the lodge is seldom used in summer. In winter they 
 
S6 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 encamp in a thicket of pines, the ground is cleared and the 
 lodge put up on willow poles which they generally carry with 
 them on their sledges. Snow is then packed half way up, the 
 inside is lined with small pine brush, and the small hole used for 
 a door closed with a double deer skin. Although they have 
 small fires it is as warm as most houses. Their stock of pro- 
 visions, consisting generally of dried fish, is kept outside in a 
 ' cache ' made of branches and snow, open above on which are 
 placed their sleighs. They are better dressed and in general 
 live much more comfortably than the Indians of the McKen^ie. 
 The women do all the drudgery in winter, collect fire wood, 
 haul the sleighs along with the dogs, bring snow for water, etc., 
 but the men always cook, and the women are not allowed to 
 eat until their husbands are satisfied. They treat their wives 
 generally with kindness, but are very jealous of them. The 
 priUjCipal men of the nation have two and three wives each, one 
 old leader here has five, while others who have few beads (and 
 beads are their riches) to decorate the women, remain bachelors, 
 but a good fighter though a poor man can always have a wife. 
 The women do little in summer except drying the fish or meat, 
 the men alone paddle the canoes, the women go as passengers, 
 I have even seen the men carry them from the canoes to 
 where the ground was dry for fear of having their feet wet. 
 The men are about the middle stature, slim but well formed, 
 regular features and high forehead, and much lighter com- 
 plexions than any Indians I have seen. The women are ditto, 
 there is one here at this present, one of the chief's wives, as 
 handsome a woman as one might see in the longest day of the 
 year, were it not for her hideous garment and tattowed face, 
 the chins of the women are always tattowed, and black is the 
 color they mostly use to paint their faces. The young children 
 are not bandaged in moss bags or Indian cradles common with 
 other tribes, but placed in a kind of a seat made of birch bark, 
 with back and sides resembling an arm chair, and in front like 
 a Spanish saddle. In this the women carry their children by a 
 strap around the shoulders in the usual manner. The child's 
 legs hang on each side, encased in boots, the feet are confined 
 to prevent them from growing, they have all short and un- 
 shapely feet, but this with them is considered handsome. 
 
3448-1). 87 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 8Y 
 
 Dancing and singing are. their favovirite amusements, and 
 they excel any other Indians that I have seen in both, leaping, 
 wrestling and other feats of strength and agility are often 
 practised, particularly -when different bands meet who are on 
 friendly terms. They are the most inveterate talkers, every 
 one that arrives makes a speech which we must listen to, before 
 he moves from the door, explaining where he has been, how 
 hard he has worked to get so and so for us, that he ought to be 
 well paid, the news from the other band, etc. etc., and they will 
 not be interrupted until it is finished, though it should be the 
 coldest day in winter. They have like all other tribes their 
 good and evil spirits, which they seldom trouble except in cases 
 of sickness or war, the evil spirit is the one generally invoked, 
 they being most afraid of it; according to their account the 
 spirit works mighty wonders betimes. They have their ' medi- 
 cine men ' or conjurors who only, it is believed, can communi- 
 c.'ite with the ' evil one,' and foretell death. These fellows are 
 looked upon with respect and awe by the others ; should any one 
 have a quarrel or even dispute with another band, and this one 
 afterwards to die, it is believed by all that his death is caused 
 by the ' medicine ' of the other band ; a strong party is mustered 
 iuid sets cut to have revenge, if the death of their friend is not 
 i.'umediately paid for — from twenty to fifty and sixty skins or 
 beads is the payment for a death, varying according to the rank 
 of the deceased. The lower band of this nation was at war as 
 I have already mentioned with the ' Teytse-Kootchin ' and five 
 of the latter were killed, but not in open battle, a regular ' stand 
 Tir fight ' seldom occurs, the usual mode is by surprise at night, 
 or waiting in the vicinity of their enemies' encampment and 
 killing any stragglers that may come within their reach. The 
 cause of the quarrel last summer was the ^sudden death of a 
 woman, wife to one of our principal men. This occurred soon 
 after she had been here, and it was at first believed that we were 
 the cause of her death, but this was overruled and the blame 
 attached to the lower band who had some disagreement with 
 her liusband. Upwards of thirty warj-iors started off in canoes, 
 on their way down they had put ashore to sleep, when five of 
 the unsuspecting ' Toytse-Kootchin ' .arrived. One of them was 
 far behind the others, and the first four being allowed on shore _ 
 were instantly dispatched with their daggers and stripped of 
 
88 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 their beads and ornaments. The fifth man came up but not 
 seeing his comrades suspected that all was not right and refused 
 to go on shore, he landed on a batture and talked with them 
 across the channel. Two of our Indians carried their canoes 
 unperceived through the willows and embarked around a point 
 farther up and descended the river as if belonging to a different 
 party. They paddled for the batture on which the stranger stood, 
 they told him they were going down stream and would be glad 
 of their [his ?] company, that it was much pleasanter for two 
 or three to be together and sing as they went along. Ho waited 
 until they came up and was about to step into his canoe, when 
 the Little Chief tripped him by the foot, he fell into the water 
 and the other Indian stabbed him before he had time to get up. 
 The warriors (murderers) proceeded on their journey intend- 
 ing to have still further revenge, but they returned here with- 
 out killing more, there were too many of the other Indians 
 together for them to attack successfully. Two years since four 
 of the lower Indians were killed a little above where we are, 
 they arrived one night at tlie lodgo of au old man while he was 
 sick and encamped alone with his two sons, one of them a boy. . 
 The Indians entered the lodge professing themselves friends, 
 but after a while the sons noticing that they did not sleep and 
 suspicious of their intentions, left the lodgo intimating to tlieir 
 father that they were going to visit the moon snares, and took 
 w'ith them their bows and arrows. They remained outside until 
 they knew by the conversation that their father's life was 
 menaced, and knowing where the strangers sat, shot their arrows 
 through the tent and killed two, the others were dispatched also 
 by arrows while endeavouring to make their escape. This is 
 spoken of as being a remarkably brave action. But they seldom 
 tell of their reverses ; they must have been less successful than 
 some of their foes, twenty years ago, they say, they were a large 
 nation, but being always at war more than half of their people 
 have been killed. By all account they are a most treacherous 
 people, and the taking of a man's life is no more regarded by 
 them than that of a moose. With us they have behaved them- 
 selves well, particularly as they had never seen white people, 
 there is only one exception. Dne of them here in the fall wished 
 to enter Mr. Hope's house while his wife was alone, she shut 
 tlie door in his face, and he again tried to force it open, and to 
 

 ^mmmmi 
 
 
 
 
 
 /^^^,\ 
 ^ i 
 
 Saveeah, chief of the Kootcha-Kootchin. 
 
 3448— p. 8U 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 89 
 
 effect this drew his knife on the woman, as he said afterwards, 
 ■only to frighten her, and I helieve he meant nothing more, still 
 It was requested that he should have a particular blowing up 
 which he got, and with orders never to enter the house again. 
 The poor fellow was frightened almost to death about it, he 
 has not been here since. Except that one instance I can say 
 nothing against them. I have never known any of them to 
 steal, although to be sure they have had few opportunities, as 
 what we have got is strictly looked after, still they are not to 
 be trusted. On account of being so often at war, and living in 
 constant dread of enemies, they generally keep in large parties. 
 They spend the summer principally in fishing, and make a 
 supply of dried trout and white fish for winter. The small 
 rivers and narrow parts of the lakes are barred with stakes, 
 and large willow baskets placed to entrap the fish, sometimes 
 immense hauls are made ; they never use nets and know nothing 
 of them. In fall and winter they live on rabbits and moose, the 
 moose are generally snared, very few of the Indians can kill 
 them in any other way, but the animals are so plentiful that 
 they are frequently shot, the young chief has been employed 
 here as Fort Hunter and been very successful, but he is con- 
 sidered the best moose hunter in the whole band. Towardte 
 spring most of them repair to the Carribeux lands to make a 
 supply of dried meat, but more particularly to procure skins for 
 clothing, etc. Comparatively little of their time is devoted to 
 hunting furs, they talk as if they could get what they wanted 
 at any time, immediately after the disruption of the ice is the 
 season they kill most beaver. 
 
 I suppose I have said enough about these Barbarians. A 
 few sketches by way of a change and some specimens of the 
 language may be interesting to you. 
 
 The above Gentleman ' Saveeah V the principal chief of the 
 Kootcha-Kootchin was present while I was sketching the others, 
 and remarked that he did not see himself amongst them. I 
 offered to take his likeness to send to the Great White Chief,, 
 and he has been sitting for the last half hour with his best face 
 on. He is mightily pleased with his own appearance on paper. 
 
 1. This may be the same chief mentioned by Sohwatka as Senati. 
 
90 CANADIAIf AECIIIVES 
 
 although I have made a complete bough^ of it, except the mouth 
 it is not unlike. 
 
 I may here remark that all the chiefs hereabouts are young 
 men, and when they become old they are not much regarded as 
 leaders, none are considered a chief until they have 200 skins 
 worth of beads. This Indian never saw whites before we 
 arrived. He has given us more fur and more meat than any 
 other, was our 'Fort Hunter this spring, has great influence with 
 his band, and is the person for whom the Eed Coat is intended, 
 after our arrival from Lapiers House. 
 
 English. Kctchin.' 
 
 NUMBERS. 
 
 1 Tech-lafrga. 
 
 S Nawk-hey. 
 
 3 Thee-eka. 
 
 4 Tawnna. 
 
 5 Tlakon-iley. 
 
 6 Neech-kee-et-hog. 
 
 7 Atait-sa-newk-he. 
 
 8 Neech-kee-eta wnna. 
 
 9 Muntcha-necko. 
 
 10 Teoh-lagga-chow-et-liee-en. 
 
 11 Tech-lagga-meekee-tagga. 
 
 12 Nawk-heiy-meekee-tagga. 
 
 13 Thee-eka-meekee-tagga. 
 
 14 Tawnna-meekee-tagga. 
 
 &c 
 
 20 Nawk-how ehowetheein. 
 
 21 Nawk-how ehowetheein unsla techlag^a. 
 
 22 Nawk-how ehowetheein unsla nawkheiy. 
 
 &c 
 
 30 Thee-eka chowit heein. 
 
 40 Tawnna-ha chowit heein. 
 
 50 Atlskinniley chowit heein. 
 
 60 Neech-kee-et-hog chowit heein. 
 
 70 Ataitsa chowit heein. 
 
 80 Neech-kee-etwanna chowit heein. 
 
 90 Miintcha-necko chowit heein. 
 
 100 Tech-lagga ehowetheein ehowetheein. 
 
 200 Nawkaggo ehowetheein ehowetheein. 
 
 300 Thee-eka ehowetheein ehowetheein. 
 
 &e., &e. 
 
 1. A complete ' botch/ presumably. 
 
 2. Compare Richardson, I, 399-400, II, 382-85 (reproduced in Introduc- 
 tion to this Journal) ; Dall's ' Alaska ;' Latham's ' Ethnology of the 
 British Colonies/ pp. 22417; Hardesty's ' Terms of Relationship of the 
 Kutchin/ in Morgan's ' Systems of Consanguinity and Affinity,* pp. 
 293-382 ; Kennicott's Kotoh-a-Kutohin vocabulary, in Whymper's ' Travel 
 and Adventure in Alaska,' pp. 322-28; and Isbester's vocabulary, in Philo. 
 Soc. of London Proc, Vol. 4, pp. 184-5. 
 
Kootcha-Kootch 
 
 3448 -p. 90 
 
jouenal of the yukow 91 
 
 English. Kutohin. 
 
 AnimcUs. 
 
 ^«?'-:' So 
 
 g"''^ey gee.e 
 
 Beaver gg 
 
 &°««*°'^ Naw-kath-so. 
 
 S?9f*V* Naw-kath-berhata-neel-ir-zey. 
 
 White fox Etohee-athwee. 
 
 ijy'^^ Nee-cetohi. 
 
 Marten Tsoo-ko. 
 
 M"»K ; Tcheethey. 
 
 g"er Xsue. 
 
 ^*: Tzin. 
 
 Wolf... Zo. 
 
 Rabbit Ke 
 
 Wolverine .'..!.'.'.' l.'! .Lech-ethue. 
 
 ?eal Nawt-chuk. 
 
 Moose Teen-juke. 
 
 Kemdeer Bet-zey. 
 
 CJooae Chre. 
 
 awaa Taw-arr-zyne. 
 
 Crane Cheaw. 
 
 L>uok Tet-sun. 
 
 Partridge Aoh-tayl. 
 
 Fish or salmon Tlengh-ko. 
 
 White fish Teliigh-ko tawk-heiy. 
 
 Pike AUe-teein. 
 
 Blue fish Raee-toha. 
 
 Loche. Cho-tleugh. 
 
 Goods. 
 
 Awl Tha. 
 
 Axe Faw-ey. 
 
 Beards Nawkye. 
 
 Belt Tho. 
 
 Blanket Taetta. 
 
 Tobacco box Coltow-teeah. 
 
 Buttons Tey-ky-theet-le. 
 
 Cap Tsa kol-u. 
 
 Bonnet Tsa-till-ek-ha. 
 
 Capot Eek. 
 
 Duffle capot Chy-eek. 
 
 Chisel Soo-it-se. 
 
 Comb Cheer-zug. 
 
 Dagger Neel-ey-cho. 
 
 File Kook-ee. 
 
 Gartering Lakath-at-hje. 
 
 Looking glass Mootchye-se-a. 
 
 Gun Te-egga^ 
 
 Gun fiint.. . . BecE-tsee. 
 
 Gun Koggo-te. 
 
 Gunpowder Tegga-kon. 
 
 Powder horn Awkee-cetche. 
 
 Eettel Thee-aw. 
 
 Knife R-see. 
 
 Ring Eelawt-thick. 
 
 Shot Tegga-awtsil. 
 
 Shirt Azue-ee-ek. ' 
 
 Ball Tegga-awtcho. 
 
 Fire-steel Tlga. 
 
 Cloth Atheet lee. 
 
 Thread Atheetle-cetchee. 
 
 Tobacco Se-eiytee-it. 
 
 Trowsers Tley-eek. 
 
 Vermilion Tingee-ta-tseigh. 
 
92 CANADIAN AE0J1IVJ;S 
 
 English. Kcichin. 
 
 Some Common Words. 
 
 Tree Tetch-hau. 
 
 Willow Kyee. 
 
 Grass Tlo. 
 
 Ground Nun. 
 
 Water Tchu. 
 
 River Han. 
 
 Lake Van. 
 
 Rain Ach-tsin. 
 
 Warm Konnee-stha. 
 
 Gold Konnee-eka. 
 
 Hungry Seze-quee-tseek. 
 
 Fatigued Keea-seth-olth-chrey. 
 
 Sick Ith-ill-seyh. 
 
 Mountain Tha. 
 
 Valley Chra-twnn-e. 
 
 Sun R-sey-e. 
 
 Stars Than. 
 
 Rook Tehee. 
 
 House or fort Isseh. 
 
 Lodge Nee-bee-a. 
 
 Bow .' Alt-heigh. 
 
 Arrow Kee-e. 
 
 Canoe Tree. 
 
 Good Neir-zee. 
 
 Bad Bets-de-te. 
 
 Day Tzeen. 
 
 Night Tatha. 
 
 Sleep '. Nogh-tchee. 
 
 Rest Tuggath-illa-oh. 
 
 Sit Teheeth-oo-itche. 
 
 Walk A-whott-il. 
 
 Run : . Spa-tooha. 
 
 Shoot Awt-il-ke. 
 
 Kill Boshug-on-iooha. 
 
 Man Tin-gee. 
 
 Woman Trya-jo. 
 
 Boy Tse-a. 
 
 Girl Meet-ehet ey. 
 
 Dog Tlyne. 
 
 Sleigh Latchan-bultl. 
 
 I have just finished copying in my meteorological journal, 
 and find that I have only a few more leaves to fill up, which I 
 am partly glad at, as there are so many different jobs going on 
 now, that require my presence, that I am scarcely allowed to 
 sit down ten minutes at a time. I expected by this time to have 
 seen most of the Indians from the Carribeux Mountains, but 
 none have yet arrived, a few who were here about a month since 
 for ammunition, informed us that the reason of their people 
 not coming in as they promised on the last snow was, that the 
 Reindeer were very scarce, and that they had made no dried 
 meat, but would likely be here by open water, some of them 
 had a good many furs which they would keep until our return 
 from Lapiers House. 
 
 None of the lower band were here since April, they are 
 passing the spring with the ' Tannin-Kootchin ' on the other 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 93 
 
 side of tlie mountains to the west of this, and i have heard, 
 have disposed of many of their furs to that band for beads. 
 Ihis is only what I expected, it is not likely that the Indians 
 will keep their furs so long (until our arrival in July) when 
 they can trade elsewhere at any time, and get whnt goods they 
 require which they cannot procure from us. When I wrote to 
 you in November, I had then no other idea, than that the Eus- 
 sians would only make an annual visit to this river, and as their 
 stay would be limited, should they not reach the place, I fully 
 expected to have prevented the Indians here from meeting them, 
 and it was my policy, and is still, however repugnant to my feel- 
 ings to encourage [rather ?] than otherwise the enmity between 
 the Kootcha-Kootchin and lower bands, but now that the Eus- 
 sians have commenced to build farther down the river, and no 
 doubt intend to support a regular establishment there, and trad- 
 ing so much lower than us, the future prospects of the trade of 
 this place are not so encouraging as they were, particularly 
 when I consider of our forthcoming outfit. I received the [out- 
 fit ?] by the return of my men from Lapiers House on January 
 5th and must say, that I was greatly mortified to find so limited 
 a supply of the articles most needed (beads and guns) being 
 sent ; I notice that there- are only a quarter of a box of beads 
 (1-6 lbs.). I would have been better satisfied had none at all 
 been sent, as then I could have settled with the Indians alike, 
 without displeasing one more than another. I am now at a loss 
 what to do. There is one man of the upper band who has! 
 between 90 and 100 skins in martens and beaver which he is 
 keeping all for beads on our return. Two men would take more 
 than what are sent, and how am I to settle with 300 ? I know 
 you could not be aware at the time the outfit was made up of 
 what was required here, and moreover that it requires a certain 
 time too, if you have to depend on goods coming from England, 
 perhaps three years,^ before an extra supply of goods for this 
 
 1. ' At the time of the establishment of Forts Yukon and Selkirk,' 
 says Dawson, ' and for many years afterwards, the " returns " from 
 these furthest stations reached the market only after seven years, the 
 course of trade being as follows: Goods. — 1st year, reach York Factory; 
 2nd year, Norway House; 3rd year. Peel river,' and were hauled during 
 the winter across the mountains to La Pierre's House; 4th year, reach 
 Fort Yukon. Returns. — 5th year, reach La Pierre's House and are hauled 
 across to Peel river; 6th year, reach depot at Fort Simpson; 7th year, 
 reach market.' 
 
94 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 addition to your district is received at Tort Simpson, you might 
 not have had the means to send more, still I did expect at least 
 two boxes of beads and two of guns. Now I have got into a 
 scrape, or at least will get into one on my return ; the Indians 
 all expect a larger outfit, I have promised it to them and what 
 excuse can I give? You may ask why did I promise a larger 
 outfit ? I answer that I had no other means of preventing Hiem 
 from disposing of their furs to the lower bands, and surely I 
 had a right to expect a larger supply of goods than is sent. But 
 even already in spite of all my endeavours a quantity of furs 
 are traded, and it is perhaps just as well, because if they were 
 brought here they would be again taken away. Without heads 
 and plenty of them you can do. little or no good here. The 
 indent I sent you in winter might astonish you with respect to 
 that article and also guns. I then mentioned four boxes of 
 beads, because I thought it unlikely that you could send more, 
 that quantity with a proportionate supply of guns, ammuni- 
 tion and tobacco, and other articles mos.t needeiJ would perhaps 
 suffice, but unless fancy beads are also sent a great part of the 
 trade will go to our opponents. There is not an Indian here, 
 and very few even at Peels River but wear fancy beads, that is 
 blue and red of various sizes, they cost the Indians nearly 
 double what they pay for the common white beads, all these 
 fancy beads are traded from the Russians, or by the Peels River 
 Indians from the ' Gens-du-f ou ' and natives of -this quarter. 
 To trade here successfully,' there ought to be for one year's 
 outfit four boxes of common white beads, one box of red (same 
 size) and one box of fancy (blue of various sizes and colors and 
 necklaces), this quantity it will perhaps be difficult to procure 
 at York Factory, but there is a great quantity sent to Red River, 
 there every common woman wears them, the Company may 
 perhaps receive one shilling for each necklace, if they were 
 sent here they would be worth at least 30 shillings each. For 
 the small shells, a few of which you sent me at Peels River, 
 they are most valuable, every Indian wears them, as nose and 
 ear ornaments, for hair bands, etc., and a small quantity might 
 be sent annually from the Columbia without a great deal of 
 trouble. Except cloth and capots which can only be disposed 
 of wh§n there is nothing else, cloth even not then, everything 
 else can be traded here, some brass arm bands and neck orna- 
 

 ^m#x. 
 
 
 3448— p. 94 
 
JOUKNAL OF THE YUKON 95 
 
 ments, medals and larger sized ear rings could be disposed of 
 most advantageously, also some fancy handled knives. I would 
 most urgently advise, if you wish this settlement to prosper, 
 that an extensive and suitable outfit be sent, even though somi) 
 of the older established places should be more scantily supplied 
 for a season. Bvit even, though we have a good outfit, I have 
 my doubts of now being as successful as I expected. We can- 
 not begin to compete with the Rtissians as to prices, nor can 1 
 tell what the result will be after the full force of the oposition 
 will be felt. 
 
 I should like much to know what are the H. B. Company's in- 
 tentions respecting this country, whether it will be leased from 
 the Eussians A. T. Co., or if we are to continue here regardless 
 of them. In the latter case we shall in all' likelihood get into 
 some trouble, but if we have goods sufficient for the demands of 
 the Indians, I doubt not but we might fight our way for a few 
 years, unless the Eussians buildrnearer to lis than where they 
 are now; as for their coming here in summer, I have great 
 hopes, that the distance and difficulty of navigating the river 
 will be sufficient preventation. But should the Company (the 
 H. B. Co.) intend to extend the trade along the river, I will 
 submit to you my humble ideas respecting it : The Youcon from 
 the forks of the Lewis and Pelly to the Polar Sea may perhaps 
 be, from its windings, 1100 or 1200 miles in length,* it drains 
 an extensive and populous territory, abounding in beaver, mar- 
 tens, and all the common fur bearing animals. Moose are plen- 
 tiful, and I think there would be no danger, but a sufficiency 
 of provisions could be procured and were it properly established 
 would compose a district in my opinion equal to the McKenzie. 
 But there are several serious inconveniences which ought to be 
 taken into consideration ; the first and greatest is our proximity 
 to the Eussians, and being so far into their territories, and the 
 probability even if we had full permission to trade here, that 
 the opposition they would offer from inland establishments and 
 on the coast would affect us: and supposing that we had four 
 or five Torts along the river, and the country is sufficiently 
 extensive and popiilous to support that number, another great 
 
 1 The leneth of the Yukon, from the confluence of the Pelly and 
 Lewes to the fea. is 1,360 miles; its total length, from the headwaters of 
 the Nisutlin, is 1,765 miles. 
 
96 canabiajs^ archives 
 
 drawback would be the difficulty of having our goods andi 
 returns transported to and from the McKenzie; I wrote you 
 last spring regarding the present winter route between Peels 
 River and Lapiers House, of the great scarcity of wood amongst 
 the mountains, 'enough may be found for a year or two more, 
 but unless another route is foimd there will be much difficulty 
 in having our outfit brought accross. By following some of the 
 small rivers more to the south, no doubt wood for encamping 
 in winter can be found but there it may lengthen the journey. 
 Rat River rises from a lake in a pass in the mountains to the 
 north of Peels River Fort, from the same lake also flows another 
 river also named Rat River which joins Peels River near to 
 the McKenzie, both these rivers as far as I have seen appear 
 navigable, if a water communication could be formed then .it 
 would be most advantageous in every respect. I had once great 
 hopes that some communication by way of lakes might be dis- 
 covered between Gravel River, and some tributary of the You- 
 con, but from what the Indians say, I believe it to be imprac- 
 ticable, and as to being supplied from the Pelly, via the west 
 branch it is entirely out of the question, at least as far down the 
 Youcon as where we are.^ 
 
 I have been interrupted in writing the above by the arrival 
 of six of the ' Gens du fou ' from their lands up this river : I 
 will give you their news some of which is rather important. 
 A very large party of these Indians started to come here after 
 the disruption of the ice, with a quantity of furs and dried meat, 
 they had reached so far as the a'amparts where the river was 
 blocked except one narrow channel, they entered the channel 
 but found it closed some distance farther down, the current, 
 then very strong, cai'ried them too far, several of their canoes 
 were swamped, one man drowned, and all of the others except 
 the six men just arrived lost their furs and provisions, being 
 forced to throw them out to lighten their canoes and save them- 
 selves. Those here have only saved a few deer skins and lynx 
 
 1. Murray's Rat river first mentioned is now Bell river. Bell river 
 and Rat river rise in the same mountains, about 136° 10'. See previous 
 note on Gravel river. ' West branch ' refers to the upper waters of the 
 Liard ; it appears as ' N. west branch ' on the map accompanying 
 Richardson's ' Arctic Searching Expedition.' As elsewhere noted, the 
 route by way of the Liard and Pelly was abandoned in favour of the 
 Porcupine, after Campbell's journey of 1850. 
 
JOUEITAL 01" THE YUKON 97 
 
 and martens, the poor fellows are in very low spirits about it. 
 I am sorry for them, and for the provisions, but I consider it 
 fortunate for us that the furs were not brought, at least the 
 quantity they say they had, they were arriving here for guns, 
 and they would have got none nor very little else. These 
 Indians have been trading some furs with the Eussians 
 last winter, going there principally for a supply of snuif and 
 tobacco. These Indians are very fond of snuff and generally 
 carry it with them. The distance from this to one of the Rus- 
 sian Forts is not great, and ten of the Eussians with a party 
 of Indians started to come here in winter to see who and where 
 we were, but returned on account of the severity of the cold. 
 They have discovered another and nearer route to the Youcon 
 by descending a river which joins this in the Gens du fou coun- 
 try (above this) and they are coming here with a large party 
 of these Indians this summer. The Indians have been telling 
 us all about their Fort, their trade and their goods, etc., etc. 
 Amongst other things which they were bringing accross the new 
 portage was a cannon one of which they always carry on each 
 boat in ' these parts.' If all this be true we shall yet see the 
 Russians. I had hopes that from below they would scarcely 
 reach us, but since they descend the river it is most probable 
 they will be here. These Indians also tell us that they had 
 heard from the middle band, and these again from the upper 
 band (there are four bands in that tribe) that some of our people 
 were coming here this summer in a canoe, which canoe, a large 
 one, was being built at the Pelly, and three Indians engaged 
 to accompany our people hither; this of course is Mr. Camp- 
 bell, but I can scarcely credit the report as Mr. C. can only 
 be arriving at the Pelly about this time with the boats built 
 on the Lewis during winter or spring, and if his place is like 
 this, he will have too much to attend to in building his Foi^l 
 and managing the Indian trade etc., to spend so much of his 
 time on a voyage of discovery. He may descend the river easily 
 enough, but if reports are to be believed, the flowers will again 
 have faded ere he again view the banljs o f the Felly.^ Well, the 
 
 1. The beginning of June. 1848, when this was written, Campbell was 
 just about starting down the liver from Pelly Banks, to the forks of the 
 pSly and Lewes, where he bnilt Fort Selkirk. It was not until two 
 years later, however, that he and Murray met at Fort Yukon. 
 
 3448—7 
 
98 CAJSTADIAW ARCHIVES 
 
 Russians are to be here, and with a cannon, and I suppose with 
 
 the intention of blowing us all to ' they might and then 
 
 again they mightn't.' If they come by this new route andi 
 descend the river they will likely be here while I am absent. 
 I wish to God I had an experienced assistant either to leave 
 here or go with the returns to Lapiers House, as it is, my 
 presence to manage matters there, for this season, is indispen- 
 sible, and we shall be off on the trip as soon as it is possible to 
 ascend Porcupiijie river, it is not yet (May 26th) broken up, 
 except near the mouth. 
 
 A party of Indians from the Carribeux Mountains have just 
 arrived, smoke is seen ascending from the woods on the oppo- 
 site side of the river, which we suppose to be from the encamp- 
 ment of the lower band who are expected daily. I have no 
 time to write more now, this may be finished before I leave, or 
 while on the voyage. 
 
 June 16th. 
 
 I am now on the voyage to Lapiers House, encamped 
 amongst the rocks in the Ramparts of Porcupine' River. We 
 left on the 5th as soon as was practicable, the river overflowing- 
 its banks, and the current so very strong, that for a few days 
 at first I had great difficulty in mounting it, but it is now sub- 
 siding rapidly, and much lower than when we descended last 
 year, and several rather dangerous looking rapids appear, which 
 were not then noticed. We have, so far, fine weather and abund- 
 ance ofj-iiosqiiitos. 
 
 I left Mr. A. McKenzie and four men at the Youcon, and gave 
 instructions for the summer's work, and there is plenty to keep 
 them all employed. Our spring operations are pretty well 
 forwarded considering the great distance all the wood had to 
 be brought. Two new boats are. built each 30 feet 8 in. keel 
 and 9 feet beam. The cutting the timber for their boats and 
 bringing the same in sleds from tAvo to four miles distance was 
 a tedious affair, but it is .now over and with that built last 
 spring, there are now three good boats, as many, I suppose, as 
 will be required for some time. The two left are placed ' en 
 cache ' and well covered with small trees and brush to shelter 
 them from the sun and weather. The pickets for the Fort are 
 all cut and squared, and collected into piles close to the river, 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 99 
 
 they also had to be got on the upper islands, as no trees large 
 enough could be found more convenient, they are to be rafted 
 down stream on my return, they are the strongest pickets in 
 the country and when put up with bastions in proportion will 
 have something the appearance of a Fort. 
 
 I intended to have given you some account of how the winter 
 and spring was spent, but have now little' room, and less time. 
 We have subsisted all spring until the day of our departure 
 upon fresh moose meat, and there is left, well packed with snow 
 in the cellar fresh provisions more than will support the people " 
 left until our return. Upwards of thirty moose large and small 
 (but all lean) were killed during winter and spring, by the 
 hunters brought with me and one or two of the natives, since 
 winter very few Indians came near us, and all the dried meat 
 received is scarcely worth nothing. The Indians that did 
 arrive say that the reindeer are very scarce this season, and 
 also that their friends would not come near us, knowing that, 
 we had little to give them. Had we been obliged to depend on 
 the Indians for provisions in spring we would have not been cj 
 well off. With one thing and another I have been able to make 
 the two ends meet, and saved the greater part of the pemmican 
 brought with me. I left Lapiers House a year ago with 22 bags 
 of pemmican, only 4 of which were consumed, 5 are brought 
 with us for the present voyage, and of course 13 remain in store, 
 there are also a good stock of dried fish and some very poor 
 dried meat, with fully 300 lbs. of greese— this, with the fresh 
 meat on hand, I hope you will allow to be a tolerable commence- 
 ment in the way of provisions, and I hope satisfactory to you, 
 it is always pleasing to myself as my own predictions on leaving 
 Fort Simpson have been verified. The establishing the Youcon 
 has, I believe, been attended with little expense comparing it 
 to the west branch, and, were it not for the Kussians I might 
 promise would be no encumberance on your district respecting 
 provisions, if we had plenty of goods. You have sent me some 
 pemmican, the principal part of which I intend taking with 
 me this season, as I cannot depend much on the exertions of 
 the Indians, they will be so dissatisfied that so few goods are 
 brought, and I do believe the majority of them will not come 
 near us after it is known, if an adequate outfit is sent, T will 
 
 3448— 7i • 
 
100 CANADIAISr AECHIVES 
 
 take upon me to say, that no more pemmican need be forwarded 
 to the Youcon, but until such outfit is received the more pem- 
 mican you send the better, and that may not suffice for the 
 Indians are sure to forsake us and trade with our opponents, or 
 with the intervening bands of Indians with whom they can have 
 intercourse at all times, and then our trade both as regards furs 
 and provisions will be done for, 
 
 A few men of the ' Hawkootchin ' and other Indians arrived 
 beiore I left and by all accounts I will not be able to trade one 
 'half of the furs already collected by the Indians, to be brought 
 in on my return. A quantity of furs was left in store for 
 beads and guns which I would have brought with me had I 
 been certain of being able to pay for them on my return, but 
 of that I was very uncertain, and therefore considered it pru- 
 dent to leave them until they are traded. I know myself of 
 upwards of twenty men who have furs for a gun each on my 
 return. I could dispose of any quantity of guns this summer, 
 and I do hope you will send as many as possible, the Indians 
 all prefer our guns to those of the Russians. Guns and beads, 
 beads and guns is all the cry in our country. Please to excuse 
 me for repeating this so often, but I cannot be too importunate, 
 the rise or fall of our establishment on the Youcon depends 
 principally on the supply of these articles. 
 
 The returns of the first year of the Youcon, are twelve packs 
 of furs, and a half ditto of deer skins, also a small box of castors, 
 in "all valued at £15o1.15.S Stirling. This is not a large siim, but 
 as much as I could collect with the goods I had. I will not say 
 what it might have been, but if you give me an adequate outfit, 
 I do believe that in a few years, we would equal Fort Simpson, 
 that is if (and that if is an ugly word) we have full permission 
 of the country. Since seeing the ' Hawkootchin ' previous to 
 my departure my ideas respecting clothing, are materially 
 altered. These people, but these only seem very fond of our 
 capots, they have promised to come in the fall for some of them, 
 it would be well to send a respectable supply of 3^ and 4 ell 
 capots, but few or none of a smaller size, white is the colour 
 always demanded, also blankets, powder horns, files, axes, etc., 
 etc., and once more allow me to request you to send plenty of 
 ammunition and tobacco. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKCN^ 101 
 
 I had some more conversation witli the Indians that arrived 
 before we left, respecting the Russians, from what they all say 
 it is my firm belief that we shall see the Russians this summer, 
 they have been making every preparation on the portage to 
 descend the river. The more I think on this subject I am at 
 the greater loss how I shall act, but I hope to receive full in- 
 structions from you. They may order us to leave the coimtry, 
 perhaps try to. force us from it should we persist in remaining, 
 and I should be very sorry to involve the Company in any 
 difficulty with our Russian neighbours. But I only received 
 orders to establish a post in the Youcon, which is done, noth- 
 ing was said concerning the Russians trade or territory, and it 
 is my private determination to keep good our footing until 
 decisive instructions are received. 
 
 I have now said quite enough, another page yet remains for 
 a few lines on my arrival at L. House. I shall therefore tak,e 
 a two hours nap and proceed on in the voyage. 
 
 Lapiers House. 
 Arrived here yesterday (June 23rd) with the furs, etc., all 
 safe. The upper parts of the river is much lower than I ex- 
 pected, and unless it rises, I begin to fear that we shall have 
 much difficulty in returning to the Youcon. The men from 
 Peels River reached this at the same time as ourselves, and I 
 find myself too much occupied to add anything more to this, 
 the longest yarn I ever spun, and I must end abruptly. 
 
 I have now fulfilled my last promise to you, I have given 
 you as full and particular account of the country etc etc. as is 
 necessary, and am sorry that I had not leisure to write it more 
 carefully. 
 
 I am, Dear Sir, 
 Most respectfully and sincerely yours, 
 
 A. H. MURRY.' 
 Mttedo McPheesoh-, Esq.,^ 
 etc., etc., etc., 
 
 iFort Simpson. 
 
 1. Alexander Hunter Murray. ^, . . -n i. j. 
 
 2. Murdo, or Murdoch. MoPherson, was at this time Chiet 1 actor at 
 Fort Simpson. Sir John Eiohardson found him there in 18*8, and was 
 indebted to him for much information as to the tribes, fauna and flora 
 of the Mackenzie basin. He had already spent twenty years in the 
 Mackenzie district, having reached the rank of Chief Factor in 1847. 
 
102 
 
 CANADIAN" ARCHIVES 
 
 NOTES TO METEOEOLOGICAL JOUENAL. 
 
 I need say very little more about the weather than what is 
 contained in the foregoing Journal. The temperature of the 
 atmosphere was regularly noted every day during the past 
 eleven months, during summer at 6 o'clock a.m. and 6 p.m. and 
 in winter as soon or as late as I was able to see, in the month of 
 July at 1 p.m., but at all other times at noon or thereabouts. 
 
 It will be seen that I have in paany places mentioned the 
 day as being calm though the wind is noted as coming from a 
 certain direction, in such case I was guided by the course of • 
 the smoke arising from the houses or by the clouds, although 
 the wind could not be felt., 
 
 Parhelia, Solar and Lunar Halos and Coronae are very 
 common in this part of the country, but I think not more so 
 than at Peels Kiver. 
 
 A remarkable phenomenon was noticed here at night on the 
 26th of July, viz., the reflection of the setting sun, in two differ- 
 ent places in the opposite horizon about the same distance apart 
 as the bases of a rainbow. The one to the west remained after 
 the other disappeared, and kept rising as the sun sank, at one 
 time it was nearly as bright as the real luminary. The evening 
 was warm and sultry, and the sun reflected from dense copper 
 coloured clouds. 
 
 A little past 6 p.m. on January 14th the moon represented 
 the following appearance [see illustration] being reflected foui 
 times, the large circle extended one half of the heavens, the 
 night was clear, no clouds to be seen except under the moon. 
 
 It will be seen that we have had some very cold weather; 
 here the winter is much colder than at Peels Eiver, at leasl; 
 while I was there, the thermometer was never below 53, here it 
 was twice, as low as 58. There is less snow, and more clear and 
 calm weather during winter here than at Peels Kiver. 
 
 The river here, set fast on October 30th and broke up on 
 May 14th. Last season. Peels Kiver set fast in October 8th 
 and broke up on May 20th. 
 
\ 
 
 ■ r 
 
 
 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 , ■>' 
 
 
 A lunar phenomenon. 
 
 3448- p. 102 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 103 
 
 1 took no note of the Aurora Borealis except when it was 
 remarkably bright or beantiful, it is nearly as common here as 
 the ' stars of the firmament ' being seen almost every clear night 
 during winter, here as at Peels River it extends generally from 
 North West to South East. 
 
 P.S. The weather during the month of June much 
 resembled that of May, generally clear and dry, but several 
 thunder storms and showers of rain. 
 
104 
 
 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., JULY, 
 
 1847. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 1 P. M. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 - 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Abovis 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 July 1. 
 
 61 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Thunder with vivid light- 
 ning ; heavy showers 
 of rain. 
 
 „ 2. 
 
 63 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 62 
 
 
 S. W. 
 
 Heavy peals of thunder, 
 gusts of strong wind 
 and showers of rain. 
 
 „ 3. 
 
 67 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 59 
 
 
 S.E.. 
 
 Cloudy, showery ; steady 
 and moderate winds. 
 
 M 4. 
 
 59 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 61 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Clear. Strong wind, 
 calmed at 7 p. m. 
 
 „ 5. 
 
 59 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Clear. Blowy forenoon ; 
 calmed after mid-day. 
 
 „ 6. 
 
 62 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 E.. .. 
 
 Cldar. Moderate wind. 
 
 M 7. 
 
 59 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 S.E.. 
 
 Rainy morning, calm 
 noon ; heavy squall 
 and rain at 6 p. m. ; 
 afterwards cahu. 
 
 „ 8. 
 
 58 
 
 
 77 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 S 
 
 Rainy morning, light 
 wind, passing showers. 
 
 „ 9. 
 
 64 
 
 
 84 
 
 
 74 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Clear and almost calm. 
 
 n 10. 
 
 75 
 
 
 89 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 S.E.. 
 
 Clear and almost calm ; 
 90 above zero at 2 p.m. 
 
 M 11. 
 
 76 
 
 
 88 
 
 
 77 
 
 
 S.E.. 
 
 Clear and cloudy ; light 
 wind. 
 
 n 12. 
 
 72 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Cloudy ; thunder in fore- 
 noon ; blowy afternoon. 
 
 „ 13. 
 
 64 
 
 
 62 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Rainy morning ; cloudy 
 and strong wind ; 
 calmed at 7 p. m. 
 
 M 14. 
 
 50 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 N.E. 
 
 Cloudy ; strong wind. 
 
 „ 15. 
 
 52 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 N.... 
 
 Cloudy ; moderate wind ; 
 
 beautiful rainbow at 
 
 night. 
 Cloudy ; strong wind ; 
 
 M 16. 
 
 54 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 calmed at 8 p. m. 
 
 „ 17. 
 
 54 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Cloudy ; strong wind ; 
 showers of rain with 
 heavy squalls. 
 
 11 18. 
 
 55 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 w.... 
 
 Cloudy ; sunshine at in- 
 tervals ; strong and 
 steady wind. 
 
 M 19. 
 
 58 
 
 
 70 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear ; blowing a gale all 
 
 day. 
 Passing showers ; strong 
 
 „ 20. 
 
 61 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 wind ; sunshine and 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 clouds. 
 
JOURNAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 106 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, Ac, JULY, 
 
 1 847, — Concluded. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Ip. M, 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 July 21. 
 
 61 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Clear ; strong wind ; in- 
 creased to a gale after 
 6 p. m. 
 
 .1 22. 
 
 60 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear ; wind moderated 
 at noon ; calm evening. 
 
 M 23. 
 
 61 
 
 
 75 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Cloudy ; forenoon calm ; 
 in the evening moder- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ate wind. 
 
 M 24. 
 
 57 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Rainy morning ; strong 
 wind and cloudy. 
 
 n 25. 
 
 59 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 74 
 
 ■ 
 
 W. . . . 
 
 Clear ; moderate wind ; 
 river rising. 
 
 „ 26. 
 
 66 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 76 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Clear ; calm afternoon ; 
 sultry evening'; Strange 
 reflection of the sun ; 
 sec notes. 
 
 M 27. 
 
 68 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear ; almost calm. 
 
 M 28. 
 
 65 
 
 . .. . 
 
 81 
 
 
 74 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Clear ; pleasant breeze. 
 
 ,f 29. 
 
 71 
 
 
 86 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear ; wind variable, 
 but mostly calm ; river 
 falling. 
 
 M 30. 
 
 73 
 
 
 86 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Clear morning ; cloudy 
 evening ; strong wind 
 and rain during ni^ht. 
 
 „ 31. 
 
 61 
 
 
 82 
 
 
 70 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy ; moderate wind. 
 
106 
 
 OAKADIAIT AEOHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., AUGUST, 
 
 1847. 
 
 
 MOBNINO. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 BVENING. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Aug. 1. 
 
 62 
 
 
 76 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Clear ; light and change- 
 able wind. 
 
 „ 2. 
 
 61 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Clear, almost calm ; 
 cloudy evening. 
 
 ., 3. 
 
 61 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Cloudy and showers of 
 rain ; blowing at night. 
 
 M 4. 
 
 62 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear ; strong wind . 
 
 M 5. 
 
 58 
 
 
 70 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 w.... 
 
 Thundei in the morning ; 
 Showery fore noon; 
 afterwards a gale of 
 wind. 
 
 „ 6. 
 
 54 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 62 
 
 
 w.... 
 
 Cloudy; strong wind; 
 distant thunder ; heavy 
 rain at night. 
 
 M 7. 
 
 58 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Clear ; light wind. 
 
 M 8. 
 
 64 
 
 
 86 
 
 
 69 
 
 
 S.E.. 
 
 M () 
 
 „ 9. 
 
 62 
 
 
 86 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 S 
 
 M calm. 
 
 .. 10. 
 
 60 
 
 
 81 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 B.... 
 
 II It 
 
 .1 11. 
 
 58 
 
 
 85 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 S 
 
 n II 
 
 M 12. 
 
 57 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 E. ... 
 
 Overcast ; little wind. 
 
 ,. 13. 
 
 57 
 
 
 79 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 E.&S. 
 
 Variable and light wind ; 
 in the afternoon, 
 thunder. 
 
 M 14 
 
 57 
 
 
 73 
 
 
 66 
 
 
 
 S. E.. 
 
 Cloudy ; in the afternoon, 
 
 strong and squally wind. 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind ; 
 
 ,. 15, 
 
 56 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 S. E.. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 distant thunder ; rainy 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 evenmg. 
 
 ,1 16. 
 
 56 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 S.W. 
 toN. 
 
 Cloudy ; light and 
 changeab 1 e wind; 
 thunder. 
 
 M 17, 
 
 56 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy ; strong wind ; 
 showery afternoon. 
 
 ., 18. 
 
 55 
 
 
 57 
 
 
 56 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy ; a gale of wind ; 
 showery. 
 
 ., 19. 
 
 50 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 57 
 
 
 w.... 
 
 Clear and cloudy ; strong 
 
 wind. 
 Clear ; little wind. 
 
 .,. 20. 
 
 52 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 N. W. 
 
 „ 21 
 
 52 
 
 
 70 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 II II 
 
 .. 22. 
 
 53 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Cloudy ; n 
 
JO0BNA1, OP THE YUKON 
 
 107 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., AUGUST, 
 1847. — Concluchd. 
 
 
 MORNINO. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 
 Aug. 23. 
 
 53 
 
 
 88 
 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Clear ; little wind. 
 
 ,. 24. 
 
 54 
 
 
 72 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 N " " 
 
 M 25. 
 ,. 26. 
 
 54 
 33 
 
 
 72 
 
 68 
 
 
 46 
 54 
 
 
 N.and 
 
 N.E. 
 N.. .. 
 
 Clear ; calm until noon ; 
 
 afterwards strong wind 
 Clear ; strong wind ; ice 
 
 on the small lake this 
 
 M 27. 
 
 42 
 
 
 68 
 
 
 65 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 morning. 
 Clear ; moderate wind. 
 
 M 28. 
 " 29. 
 
 45 
 44 
 
 
 66 
 67 
 
 
 60 
 
 58 
 
 
 W.... 
 E.... 
 
 Hazy and clear ; light 
 
 wind. 
 Clear ; light wind. 
 
 p, 30. 
 
 38 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 44 
 
 
 N.E... 
 
 Light and steady wind ; 
 
 cloudy evening. , 
 Light and steady wind ; 
 
 clear. 
 
 „ 31. 
 
 36 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 44 
 
 
 
108 
 
 CANADIAIT AEOHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., SEPTEM- 
 BER, 1847. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Sept. 1 
 
 ., 2 
 
 n 3. 
 
 M 4. 
 
 n .5. 
 
 n 6. 
 
 M 7. 
 
 „ 8. 
 
 M 9. 
 
 „ 10. 
 
 „ 11. 
 
 M 12. 
 
 M 13. 
 
 „ 14. 
 
 ., 15. 
 
 „ 16. 
 
 M 17. 
 
 „ 18. 
 
 „ 19. 
 
 M 20. 
 
 n 21. 
 
 n 22. 
 
 ., 23. 
 
 MOENING. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 36 
 40 
 36 
 36 
 40 
 42 
 40 
 37 
 36 
 30 
 
 33 
 29 
 25 
 26 
 25 
 28 
 25 
 26 
 26 
 25 
 25 
 38 
 
 40 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 64 
 69 
 64 
 64 
 64 
 69 
 65 
 68 
 58 
 55 
 
 55 
 48 
 48 
 49 
 49 
 51 
 50 
 48 
 50 
 48 
 48 
 50 
 
 52 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 54 
 60 
 60 
 55 
 56 
 56 
 54 
 50 
 46 
 44 
 
 45 
 39 
 37 
 37 
 37 
 41 
 41. 
 40 
 41 
 40 
 44 
 43 
 
 44 
 
 Wind 
 
 W.... 
 S.W.. 
 S.W.. 
 S.W.. 
 S.W.. 
 W.... 
 S.W.. 
 W.... 
 W.... 
 S.W.. 
 
 W.... 
 W.... 
 W.... 
 S.W.. 
 N. W. 
 
 E 
 
 E 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 N 
 
 S.W.. 
 EtoN 
 N.W.. 
 
 N.W.. 
 
 Remabks. 
 
 Cloudy; light wind. 
 
 Clear, calm morning; 
 
 blowy afternoon. 
 Strong wind; cloudy 
 
 evening. 
 Clear; blowing strong. 
 
 n light wind. 
 
 II II rainy night. 
 
 II M light rain in 
 
 evening... 
 
 Cloudy; n rainy niglit. 
 
 Clear; moderate wind. 
 
 light wind; hoar 
 frost this morn- 
 ing, 
 light wind. 
 
 calm. 
 
 light wind. 
 
 Cloudy; light wind j Au- 
 rora Borealis at night . 
 Clear; calm. 
 
 II light wind. 
 
 II strongwind; 
 cloudy evening. 
 
 II andcloudy; steady 
 wind in the even- 
 ing; rain. 
 
 II and cloudy; light 
 wind. 
 
JOTTENAI, OF THE YUKON 
 
 109 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., SEPTEM- 
 BER, 1847.— Cow. 
 
 
 MORNINO. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 EVBNINO. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Sept. 24. 
 r, 25. 
 
 40 
 30 
 
 
 50 
 40 
 
 
 40 
 32 
 
 
 N.W.. 
 N 
 
 ir and cloudy; mod- 
 erate and steady 
 wind. 
 Cloudy; strong wind; 
 
 M 26. 
 
 „ 27 
 
 28 
 27 
 
 
 40 
 44 
 
 
 34 
 32 
 
 
 N 
 
 N 
 
 Cloudy and clear; in the 
 morning, snow; moder- 
 ate wind. 
 
 Clear; light wind . 
 
 M 28. 
 ,. 29. 
 
 26 
 23 
 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 
 
 32 
 34 
 
 
 E 
 
 N.E. . 
 
 Cloudy; light wind; Au- 
 r r a Borealis very 
 bright at midnight. 
 
 Cloudy; light wind. 
 
 ., 30. 
 
 24 
 
 
 43 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 E 
 
 Clear; calm . 
 
110 
 
 CAJiTADIAN' AECHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATiMOSPHERE, &c., OCTO- 
 BER, 1847. 
 
 
 MOHNING. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 ^ Remarks. 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Oct. 1.. 
 
 18 
 
 
 42 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 E.. .. 
 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 ,, 2.. 
 
 15 
 
 
 40 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 N.. .. 
 
 t. 
 
 „ 3.. 
 
 15 
 
 
 38 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 N.... 
 
 Tt 
 
 PI 4. 
 
 16 
 
 
 37 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 N. W. 
 
 Cloudy and calm. 
 
 " 5.. 
 M 6.. 
 
 22 
 24 
 
 
 36 
 
 38 
 
 
 27 
 31 
 
 
 N.W. 
 S.W., 
 
 _ II morning; clear 
 day; calm. 
 Clear; calm. 
 
 1. 7.. 
 
 16 
 20 
 
 
 33 
 33 
 
 
 24 
 27 
 
 
 
 
 ., 8.. 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 „ 9.. 
 
 21 
 
 
 33 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 E 
 
 II 
 
 M 10.. 
 
 19 
 
 
 33 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 
 .1 
 
 M 11. . 
 
 „ 12.. 
 .1 13.. 
 
 26 
 33 
 
 25 
 
 
 32 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 30 
 
 33 
 38 
 
 
 N.... 
 N. E.. 
 
 E 
 
 Strong wind with snow 
 from 7 a.m. until noon; 
 cloudy afternoon, but 
 still blowing. 
 Cloudy; moderate 
 wind; violent shower 
 of hail at 8 p. m . ; a 
 tew falling stars from 
 E. to West, 
 
 Clear; light wind. 
 
 Rain, snow and sleet all 
 day; light wind. 
 
 Soft snow all day; light 
 wind. 
 
 Cloudy; light snow show- 
 ers and light wind. 
 
 Clear; light wind. 
 
 M 14.. 
 M 15.. 
 
 M 16.. 
 
 M 17.. 
 
 32 
 32 
 
 27 
 16 
 
 
 35 
 40 
 34 
 29 
 
 
 33 
 33 
 32 
 21 
 
 
 E.... 
 N.W. 
 W.... 
 
 N .... 
 
 M 18.. 
 
 15 
 
 
 33 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 N. E.. 
 
 Clear and cloudy; light 
 
 „ 19.. 
 
 16 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 N. E.. 
 
 wind; snowy evening. 
 Clear and cloudy; light 
 wind; a few showers of 
 
 „ 20. . 
 „ 21.. 
 
 22 
 14 
 
 
 30 
 28 
 
 
 27 
 13 
 
 
 E 
 
 N.... 
 
 snow. 
 Clear and cloudy; light 
 
 wind. 
 Clear and calm. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 111 
 
 TEMPERATUKE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., OCTO- 
 BER, 1847.— Cow. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 EVBNING. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 Oct. 22.. 
 
 3 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 N. ... 
 
 Clear and calm; very red 
 sky at night; ice drift- 
 ing in the river; the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 back channels frozen 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 over. 
 
 M 23.. 
 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 N.E. 
 
 Hazy morning; moderate 
 
 wind. 
 Calm; clear day; cloudy 
 
 „ 24.. 
 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 N.W. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 evening. 
 Calm and cloudy. 
 
 „ 25.. 
 
 4 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 ., 26.. 
 
 10 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 N. ... 
 
 Cloudy; strong wind; 
 snowy evening. 
 
 M 27.. 
 
 20 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy; moderate wind; 
 a little snow falling. 
 
 M 28 
 
 15 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy; blowing a gale; 
 calmed at sunset. 
 
 M 29.. 
 
 20 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 N.E... 
 
 Moderate wind; snowing 
 
 lightly all day. 
 Moderate wind; snowing 
 
 M 30.. 
 
 20 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 lightly; ice set fast on 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 the river. 
 
 „ 31.. 
 
 i 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Light wind; clear day; 
 cloudy evening. 
 
112 
 
 CAWADIAW AECHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., 
 NOVEMBER, 1847. 
 
 
 MOKNING. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 
 Nov. 1. 
 
 4 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 W... 
 
 Clear morning ; calm ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 cloudy evening. ' 
 
 „ 2. 
 
 15 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Cloudy; blowmg, witk 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 snow; clear night 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Aurora Borealia very 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 bright. 
 
 M 3 
 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 W .. 
 
 Clear ; strong and sharp 
 
 
 
 wind. 
 
 <, 4. 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 15 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Clear ; and calm. 
 
 „ 5. 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 17 
 
 N.... 
 
 Clear; but foggy; light 
 wind. 
 
 M 6. 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 19 
 
 N.... 
 
 Clear ; light wind. 
 
 IP 7. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 13 
 
 W. .. 
 
 Clear and cloudy; light 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 wind. 
 
 n 8. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 12 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Light snow falling all 
 day ; light wind. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 II 9 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Strong wind ; cloudy ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 snowing at night. 
 
 „ 10. 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Moderate wind ; cloudy. 
 
 II 11 
 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 N.E.. 
 N.B.. 
 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 ,1 12. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Light wind ; clear day ; 
 cloudy night ; two 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 bright mock suns seen 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 all day. 
 
 „ 13. 
 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Light wind ; cloudy; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 clear ni^ht. 
 
 ,1 14. 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 20 
 
 N.... 
 
 Light wind ; clear; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 bright Aurora Borealis. 
 
 II 15. 
 
 
 24 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 12 
 
 W.... 
 
 Calm and cloudy ; snow- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ing at night. 
 
 I, 16. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 9 
 
 w.... 
 
 Light wind ; cloudy; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 snowing lightly in the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 afternoon. 
 
 ,1 17. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 10 
 
 w... 
 
 Light wind; snowing 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 lightly all day. 
 Calm and cloudy. 
 
 ,1 18. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 14 
 
 N.W. 
 
 II 19, 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 23 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 „ 20. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 13 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Cloudy ; strong wind in 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 afternoon. 
 
 ., 21. 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 2 
 
 E.... 
 
 Cloudy; light wind. 
 
 11 22. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 10 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind. 
 
JOUENAL OP THE YUKOIT 
 
 113 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, <fec., 
 NOVEMBER, ISil.— Concluded. 
 
 Date. 
 
 MOBNINO. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 .. 23. 
 M 24. 
 
 
 4 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 25 
 35 
 20 
 
 10 
 9 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 a 
 
 24 
 34 
 18 
 
 8 
 8 
 
 
 2 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 26 
 33 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 E... 
 
 N.... 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 N&E. 
 S.E... 
 
 E.... 
 E. .. 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind ; 
 
 snowing lightly all day. 
 
 Cloudy and clear ; light 
 
 „ 25. 
 .1 26. 
 
 
 wind ; strong wind at 
 night. 
 
 Cloudy ; moderate wind ; 
 light snow falling all 
 day ; clear night ; halo 
 and image of the moon 
 
 Clear and calm ; bright 
 Parhelia. 
 
 Clear and light wind. 
 
 Cloudy, and light wind ; 
 
 snowing a little in the 
 
 morning. 
 Cloudy and light wind. 
 
 Snow 13 inches deep. 
 
 1, 27. 
 M 28. 
 
 M 29. 
 1, 30. 
 
 
 3W8--8 
 
114 
 
 OANADIAN AECHIVKS 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, 
 DECEMBER, 1847. 
 
 &o., 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 Dec. 1. 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 W... 
 
 It r M 
 
 Cloudy and little wind. 
 
 ■, 2. 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 4 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 
 
 
 snowing lightly ; clear 
 night. 
 
 .. 3. 
 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 2 
 
 N.... 
 S.W.. 
 W.... 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 4. 
 
 
 wind. 
 Cloudy; little wind. 
 
 M 6. 
 
 
 4 
 2 
 
 Clear morning ; after- 
 
 M 6. 
 
 
 wards cloudy ; light 
 wind. 
 Cloudy and calm. 
 
 M 7. 
 
 „ 8. 
 
 21 
 
 • 
 
 10 
 
 
 22 
 
 8 
 
 
 22 
 6 
 
 
 s 
 
 w. .. 
 
 Cloudy; very strong 
 
 wind, veered to the S. 
 
 W. after midday and 
 
 increa.sed to a gale ; 
 
 continued all night. 
 Cloudy ; light wind ; clear 
 
 night. 
 Clear ; strong wind after 
 
 mid-day. 
 Clear; light'wind ; bright 
 
 Aurora Borealis. 
 Clear, but foggy ; light 
 
 wind. 
 Clear, but foggy ; almost 
 
 calm. 
 Foggy morning ; clear 
 
 and calm. 
 Clear ; light and variable 
 
 wind. 
 Clear ; dead calm. 
 
 n 9. 
 
 
 10 
 24 
 42 
 
 
 10 
 25 
 41 
 
 
 11 
 26 
 41 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 w.... 
 
 N .. 
 
 M 10. 
 
 
 u 11. 
 
 
 ,, 12. 
 
 
 49 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 47 
 
 N.W 
 
 „ 13. 
 
 „ 14. 
 
 
 48 
 50 
 
 
 47 
 49 
 
 
 47 
 49 
 
 N.... 
 NtoS 
 
 M 15. 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 M 16. 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 43 
 
 
 43 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 „ 17. 
 
 
 35 
 
 
 34 
 
 
 32 
 
 N.... 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind. 
 
 M 18. 
 
 
 31 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 26 
 
 S 
 
 II II 
 
 „ 19. 
 
 
 23 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 20 
 
 N.... 
 
 Cloudy ; calm. 
 
 M 2C. 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 10 
 
 S W.. 
 
 Cloudy ; moderate wind. 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 „ 21. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 25 
 
 N.W. 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE 'YCXON 
 
 115 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, .fee, 
 DECEMBER, I8i7.— Concluded. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Before 
 
 
 Dec. 22. 
 „ 23. 
 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 20 
 18 
 
 8 
 18 
 33 
 42 
 
 ....... 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 22 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 34 
 
 1 
 39 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 25 
 17 
 
 7 
 16 
 35 
 38 
 
 N.E.. 
 N.W. 
 
 W.... 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 N.W. 
 W..., 
 W.... 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind; 
 
 hazy but clear night ; 
 
 large lunar halo. 
 Snowing hghtly all day ; 
 
 little wind. 
 Calm and overcast. 
 
 Cloudy ; steady and 
 rather strong wind. 
 
 Clear morning ; light 
 wind ; cloudy evening. 
 
 Calm and overcast. 
 
 Calm ; snowing lightly 
 all day ; clear night. 
 
 Cloudy day ; light wind; 
 bright Aurora Borealis. 
 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 Calm and clear ; snow 21 
 inches deep. 
 
 M 24. 
 .1 25. 
 
 
 n 26.! 1 
 
 n 27. 
 
 .. 28. 
 
 
 M 29. 
 
 
 M 30. 
 M 31. 
 
 
 3448 -8i 
 
116 
 
 CANADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., 
 JANUARY, 1848. 
 
 Date. 
 
 MOENINO. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Abovf 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Jan. 1 . 
 
 " 3. 
 „ 3. 
 
 II 4. 
 
 
 38 
 
 27 
 22 
 
 
 35 
 
 25 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 34 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 26 
 
 35 
 44 
 45 
 50 
 50 
 
 18 
 
 33 
 
 24 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 27 
 
 31. 
 
 45 
 
 44 
 
 49 
 
 51 
 
 W.... 
 
 N. ... 
 S.W.. 
 
 w.... 
 
 8.W.. 
 W.... 
 
 S 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 N.. .. 
 
 E... 
 
 S.E. 
 
 toN. 
 
 N.. . 
 
 N. ... 
 S.E... 
 N.... 
 
 Clear morning ; overcast 
 afternoon; a little snow 
 at night. 
 
 Calm and overcast. 
 
 Calm and clear at noon ; 
 again overcast. 
 
 Light wind ; snowing in 
 forenoon ; afternoon 
 clear ; blowing strong 
 and snowing at night. 
 
 Calm and overcast ; a 
 little snow fell in the 
 morning. 
 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 11 5. 
 II 6 
 
 
 5 
 
 30 
 22 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 42 
 29 
 
 38 
 46 
 50 
 52 
 544 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 " 7. 
 
 
 
 n 8 
 
 II 9. 
 
 
 Moderate wind ; clear 
 
 afternoon. 
 Overcast ; strong wind 
 towards evening ; blow- 
 ing a gale at night; 
 wind shifted to south. 
 Strong wind and snow- 
 Moderate and steady 
 wind; clear; halo round 
 the moon. 
 Clear ; began to blow at 
 10 a.m.; two false suns 
 seen all day. • 
 Clear ; light winds. 
 
 Overcast and light wind ; 
 clear evening ; remark- 
 able circle and images 
 of the moon. See note. 
 
 Calm ; light snow in very 
 small particles. 
 
 Calm and clear; fog on 
 the river. 
 
 M 10. 
 
 M 11. 
 
 M 12. 
 
 M 13. 
 M 14. 
 
 15 
 5 
 
 M 15. 
 
 ,1 16. 
 
 
 II 17. 
 
 
 H 18. 
 ,1 19. 
 
 
 fog. 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 Calm and clear. 
 
JOVrBNAJj OF THE YTTKON 
 
 117 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., 
 JANUARY, I8i8— Concluded. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 Abov 
 
 e Belov 
 
 r Abov 
 
 e Below 
 
 Above Below 
 
 Jan. 20 
 
 
 64 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 17 
 
 N. to 
 
 N.E. 
 
 Foggy morning; com- 
 menced to blow strong 
 after midday; clouds 
 collecting. 
 
 .. 21. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 13 
 
 N.. .. 
 
 Cloudy ; blowy morning ; 
 calm afternoon. 
 
 M 22. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 11 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Snow with strong wind 
 until noon ; afternoon 
 clear with moderate 
 wind; Aurora Borealis 
 very bright. 
 
 11 23. 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 8 
 
 N.E. . 
 
 Overcast ; light wind. 
 
 11 24. 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 12 
 
 W.... 
 
 Light, raw wind; clear 
 morning, cloudy even- 
 
 M 25. 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 31 
 
 
 30 
 
 W.... 
 
 Light wind ; clear ; hazy 
 
 11 26. 
 
 
 48 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 evenmg; 
 Clear and calm ; very 
 
 11 27. 
 
 
 48 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 46 
 
 N.W. 
 
 foggy morning. 
 Clear morning, almost 
 calm ; overcast after- 
 noon; light snow in 
 
 11 28. 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 46 
 
 
 48 
 
 B 
 
 the evening. 
 Clear, light wind. 
 
 
 
 1, 29. 
 
 
 534 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 52 
 
 
 Clear but foggy ; calm ; 
 beautiful Aurora Bore- 
 alis. 
 
 11 30. 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 51 
 
 
 25 
 
 N.. .. 
 
 Foggy morning; calm 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and clear ; commenced 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 to blow afternoon; wind 
 
 11 31. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 fell at 7 p.m. 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 46 
 
 
 47 
 
 E 
 
 Foggy morning; calm 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and clear. Snow 27 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 inches. 
 
118 
 
 CAITADIAIT AECHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., 
 FEBRUARY, 1848. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 Peb. 1. 
 „ 2. 
 „ 3. 
 
 
 53 
 55 
 46 
 55 
 36 
 35 
 
 26 1 
 
 35 
 
 56 
 
 584 
 
 53 
 
 50 
 
 36 
 
 26 
 
 22 
 
 25 
 
 20 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 46 
 47 
 41 
 45 
 35 
 30 
 
 22 
 
 32 
 46 
 46 
 42 
 42 
 32 
 25 
 12 
 21 
 10 
 12 
 
 
 47 
 49 
 42 
 47 
 39 
 30 
 
 28 
 
 38 
 48 
 48 
 44 
 37 
 34 
 25 
 18 
 19 
 12 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 12 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 w.... 
 
 S.W.. 
 S.E.. 
 
 N. ... 
 
 W. .. 
 S.E.. 
 
 N.. .. 
 
 N.W. 
 
 W.... 
 
 N.. .. 
 N.. .. 
 
 Calm and dear; foggy 
 morning and evening. 
 
 Calm and clear; foggy 
 all day. 
 
 Calm, becoming cloudy 
 
 II 4. 
 
 
 in the evening. 
 Calm and clear ; foggy 
 
 „ 5. 
 „ 6 
 
 n 7. 
 
 11 8 
 
 
 as usual. 
 Calm and clear ; light 
 
 snow in the morning. 
 Calm and overcast ; a 
 
 little snow fell in the 
 
 forenoon. 
 Light wind ; cloudy ; 
 
 clearing up towards 
 
 night. 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 1, 9. 
 
 
 Calm and clear; fog on 
 
 the river. 
 Calm and clear ; light 
 
 wind in the evening. 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 M 10. 
 11 11. 
 
 
 „ 12. 
 1, 13. 
 M 14. 
 
 IP 15. 
 
 
 Calm and dear ; cloudy 
 
 evening. 
 Light wind ; cloudy. 
 
 Calm and cloudy. 
 
 Calm and cloudy; clear 
 evening. 
 
 Calm and cloudy ; clear 
 evening. 
 
 Calm and cloudy ; halo 
 around the moon. 
 
 Calm and cloudy ; com- 
 menced to blow in the 
 evening ; combined 
 lunar halo and corona. 
 
 ., 16. 
 
 
 „ 17. 
 
 
 „ 18. 
 1, 19. 
 
 
 „ 20. 
 
 „ 21. 
 1, 22. 
 
 . . 
 
 5 
 
 35 
 23 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 14 
 
 
 cloudy ; blowing at 
 
 night. 
 Strong wind ; cloudy ; 
 
 clear night ; beautiful 
 
 Aurora Borealis. 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 Light wind; clear; cloudy 
 evening. 
 
 
 
JOURNAL OP THE YUKON 
 
 119 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., 
 FEBRUARY, I8i8— Concluded. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Feb. 23. 
 
 
 6 
 '5 
 
 15 
 22 
 33 
 36 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 14 . 
 
 9 
 15 
 19 
 
 S.W.. 
 S.W.. 
 S.W.. 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Calm ; clear and cloudy. 
 
 Calm; snowing lightly 
 
 in forenoon. 
 Blowing a gale all day ; 
 
 snowing; clear evening. 
 Strong wmd ; clear. 
 
 Calm and clear morning 
 
 afterwards cloudy. 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 " 24. 
 
 10 
 
 . 4 
 14 
 ]2 
 22 
 23 
 
 8 
 
 „ 25. 
 M 26. 
 
 8 
 
 n 27. 
 
 ., 28. 
 ., 29. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Snow drifted so much that it is difficult to ascertain the exact depth. The 
 average may be 32 inches. 
 
120 
 
 CANADIAN ARCHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., MARCH, 1848. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 
 March 1 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Calm and Cloudy. 
 
 2 
 M 3 
 
 
 33 
 33 
 
 
 14 
 13 
 
 
 14 
 13 
 
 E 
 
 .1 and clear at 3 p.m ; 
 Ther. 9 below 0. 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 4 
 
 M 5 
 
 6 
 
 
 33 
 10 
 10 
 19 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 
 1 
 
 N.E.. 
 N.E.. 
 N.E.. 
 
 Clear ; blowing strong 
 
 after 10 a.m. 
 Clear; blowing strong al 
 
 day. 
 
 .. 7 
 
 
 5 
 
 Clear and calm 
 
 8 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 M II 
 
 g 
 
 
 29 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 10 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 II II cloudy 
 
 M 10 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 8 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Clear; light wind; a little 
 snowfall during the 
 night. 
 
 Clear ; light vrind ; halo 
 round the moon. 
 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 M 11 
 
 ,. 12 
 
 
 31 
 37 
 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 
 15 
 15 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 „ 13 
 
 
 37 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 Clear and calm; one false 
 sun seen in the fore- 
 noon ; halo round the 
 
 „ 14 
 „ 15 
 
 
 28 
 30 
 
 
 6 
 10 
 
 
 10 
 14 
 
 N.W. 
 S.W.. 
 
 moon. 
 Clear; light wind; cloudy 
 
 evening. 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 „ 16 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 M 17 
 M 18 
 
 „ 19 
 ,. 20 
 
 .. 21 
 
 
 27 
 36 
 23 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 
 15 
 12 
 13 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 N.E.. 
 W.... 
 
 N.... 
 
 II II halo round 
 the moon. 
 Clear and calm ; clouds 
 
 collecting at night. 
 Cloudy; light wind; clear 
 
 evening. 
 Snowing lightly in fore- 
 noon; light wind; bright; 
 Parhelia all day. 
 Clear and calm. 
 
 . „ 22 
 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Cloudy ; light wind. 
 
 ,. 23 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 ...... 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 Cloudy and calm ; clear 
 evening. 
 
JOUBNAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 121 
 
 TEMPEEATUEE OF THE ATMOSPHEEE, &o., MAEOH, 1848. 
 — Ooncluded. 
 
 Datb. 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Wind 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Mar. 24 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 22 
 28 
 15 
 10 
 
 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 N.B.. 
 S.W.. 
 W.... 
 S.W.. 
 
 w.... 
 
 N.... 
 
 w.... 
 
 Strong wind ; snowing 
 
 lightly all day. 
 Light wind. 
 
 Cloudy ; blowing a gale 
 after midday. 
 
 Blowing strong ; wind 
 shifted to west after 
 noon; snowy evening. 
 
 Blowing a gale ; clear 
 evening. 
 
 Cloudy afternoon ; blow- 
 ing strong at night. 
 
 Calm and clear. 
 
 Light wind and clear. 
 
 M 25 
 „ 26 
 „ 27 
 
 „ 28 
 M 29 
 M 30 
 „ 31 
 
 
 7 
 7 
 
 24 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 Snow much packed and decreasing in depth. 
 
122 
 
 CANADIAIT ARCHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., APRIL, 1848. 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 BVBNINS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 Rkmakks. 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 1 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 April I 
 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 S.W.. 
 
 Strong wind; snowintf. 
 
 p, 2 
 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 ., 3 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 7 
 
 N.... 
 
 11 II 
 
 „ 4 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 3 
 
 N,... 
 
 Strong wind n 
 
 „ 5 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 N.... 
 
 11 II clear; calm 
 
 » C 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 N.K 
 
 evening. 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
 Calm ; clear. 
 
 M 7 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 M 8 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 1 
 
 N.... 
 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 „ 9 
 
 
 26 
 
 2 
 
 ' 
 
 5 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 II cloudj'. 
 
 M 10 
 1. H 
 „ 12 
 
 M 18 
 M 14 
 
 2 
 11 
 
 22 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 29 
 32 
 
 32 
 22 
 
 
 
 15 
 20 
 30 
 
 32 
 25 
 
 
 N ... 
 N.K. 
 N.E.. 
 
 N.W. 
 
 toS. 
 
 W.... 
 
 1, . 1, light 
 snow during mght. 
 
 Light wind; cloudy; Par- 
 helia in forenoon. 
 
 Light wind; cloudy; Ther. 
 40 above at 4 p. m. ; Par- 
 helia and halo round 
 the sun this morning. 
 
 Light and variable wind; 
 snowing all day. 
 
 Strong wind and clear. 
 
 u 15 
 ,, 16 
 
 II 17 
 
 15 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 31 
 
 28 
 
 15 
 
 
 27 
 32 
 25 
 
 18 
 
 
 N.W. 
 
 Calm and clear; Parhelia 
 in forenoon. 
 
 Light wind ; cloudy morn- 
 ing; clear evening. 
 
 „ 18 
 
 
 M.W. 
 
 able halo and Parhelia; 
 see note. 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
 1. 19 
 
 2 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 II II 
 
 M 20 
 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Light wind n 
 
 ,1 21 
 
 8 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 N.W. 
 
 11 
 
 11 22 
 
 8 
 
 
 27 
 
 
 28 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Strong wind n 
 
 II 23 
 
 15 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 11 cloudy. 
 
 II 21 
 
 12 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 N.... 
 
 1, snowing after 
 midday. 
 
JOUEITAI, OF THE YUKON 
 
 123 
 
 TEMPEEATETEE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., APRtt, 1848. 
 
 — Concluded. 
 
 Date. 
 
 AprU 25 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 14 
 
 18 
 
 34 
 
 35 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 22 
 
 33 
 49 
 52 
 48 
 45 
 
 Evening. 
 
 Above Below 
 
 24 
 
 43 
 52 
 54 
 45 
 48 
 
 Wind 
 
 N... 
 
 N... 
 
 N.E. 
 W... 
 E... 
 
 Rkmahkp 
 
 Snowy forenoon ; strong 
 wind; two mock suns 
 and halo round the sun 
 in the afternoon. 
 
 Calm; clear and cloudy. 
 
 Calm ; cloudy morning ; 
 
 clear evening. 
 Clear; pleasant breeze. 
 
 M M cloudy 
 
 evening. 
 Clear ; strong wind. 
 
124 
 
 CAKTADIAN AECHIVES 
 
 TEMPERATURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., MAY, 1848 
 
 
 Morning. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Evening. 
 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 
 
 
 Wind 
 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 
 Mayl.. 
 n 2.. 
 
 30 
 28 
 
 
 45 
 45 
 
 
 42 
 39 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 N.E.. 
 
 Strong wind ; cloudy and 
 
 clear. :. 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 „ 3.. 
 
 28 
 
 
 46 
 
 
 47 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Very light wind ; clear. 
 
 n 4.. 
 
 30 
 
 
 39 
 
 
 34 
 
 
 E.... 
 
 Strpng wind ; clear. 
 
 „ 5.. 
 „ 6. 
 
 18 
 24 
 
 
 33 
 30 
 
 
 30 
 31 
 
 
 B.... 
 E.... 
 
 M M calm 
 evening. 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
 „ 7.. 
 „ 8.. 
 M 9.. 
 „ 10.. 
 
 M 11.. 
 
 23 
 26 
 30 
 30 
 26 
 
 
 30 
 32 
 43 
 40 
 39 
 
 
 30 
 33 
 47 
 42 
 40 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 S.W. 
 toNE 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 TI snowing 
 
 lightly all day. 
 Strong wind ; heavy 
 
 snow ; calmed at 7 p.m. 
 Light and variable wind ; 
 
 clear ; river rising. 
 Moderate wind ; clear ; 
 
 river rising. 
 Strong wind ; clear; river 
 
 „ 12. . 
 ,, 13.. 
 „ 14.. 
 
 „ 15. . 
 
 24 
 29 
 41 
 
 41 
 
 
 33 
 45 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 
 30 
 48 
 49 
 
 51 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 S.W.. 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Blowing a gale ; cloudy ; 
 river subsiding. 
 
 Very light wind; clear ; 
 river rising. 
 
 Strong wind ; cloudy 
 morning; clear even- 
 ing ; the river broke up 
 this afternoon. 
 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 M 16.. 
 
 33 
 
 
 45 
 
 
 42 
 
 
 W.... 
 
 Strong wind ; cloudy. 
 
 „ 17.. 
 
 34 
 
 
 43 
 
 
 44 
 
 
 w.... 
 
 11 clear and 
 cloudy. 
 Clear and squally. 
 
 „ 18.. 
 
 39 
 
 
 53 
 
 
 50. 
 
 
 W. to 
 
 E. 
 E 
 
 ,. 19.. 
 
 42 
 
 
 54 
 
 
 55 
 
 .... 
 
 Light wind ; clear. 
 
 ., 20. . 
 „ 21.. 
 
 ,. 22. . 
 
 46 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 
 56 
 68 
 
 66 
 
 
 63 
 66 
 
 63 
 
 
 E 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Calm; clear day; sultry 
 and cloudy evening. 
 
 Variable and light wind ; 
 clear ; ther. at 72 at 3 
 p.m. 
 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
 M 23. . 
 
 48 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 67 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Moderate wind ; clear. 
 
 „ 24. . 
 
 47 
 
 
 58 
 
 
 57 
 
 
 N.E.. 
 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
JOUENAL OF THE YUKON 
 
 125 
 
 TEMPEEATUEE OF THE ATMOSPHERE, &c., MAT, 1848.— 
 
 — Concluded. 
 
 Date. 
 
 MOBNING. 
 
 Noon. 
 
 EVBNINO. 
 
 Wind 
 
 RSMABKS. 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 Above 
 
 Below 
 
 „ 25. . 
 „ 26. . 
 M 27.. 
 M 28.. 
 ., 29.. 
 
 ., 30.. 
 n 31.. 
 
 44 
 40 
 44 
 44 
 45 
 
 51 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 50 
 50 
 56 
 54 
 56 
 
 62 
 70 
 
 
 
 46 
 49 
 54 
 49 
 62 
 
 68 
 66 
 
 
 
 N.E 
 
 toE. 
 B.... 
 
 E.... 
 
 E.... 
 
 S 
 
 S.E.. 
 S.E.. 
 
 Variable wind ; clear ; 
 
 calm evening. 
 Strong wind ; clear. 
 
 Pleasant breeze ; clear ; 
 
 calm evening. 
 Strong wind ; cloudy and 
 
 clear. 
 Very light wind ; cloudy 
 
 and clear ; a slight 
 
 shower of rain at 2 p.m. 
 Squally aud calm ; a 
 
 shower of rain. 
 Squally; a heavy shower 
 
 of ram in the afternoon. 
 
Cornell University Library 
 F 1091 M98 
 
 Journal ot the Yukon. 1847-48, bvAlexan 
 
 olln 
 
 3 1924 028 905 400