no] All books are subject to recall after two weeks Olin/Kroch Library DATE DUE -Mnn ' _jE-_-^^Q| I'WVT— "1 '" i|!iou| GAYLORD PRINTED IN U.SJI. Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924084294945 In Compliance with current copyright law, Cornell University Library produced this replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1992 to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. 1998 Jt^ ^....c^,^^ A^'^y^C^/r A ^^t-f-Cy ^^7T^ ^ SANTO DOMINGO. PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE AND COMPANY EDINBURGH AND LONDON ST DOMINGO PRODUCTS, Fro->iiispiece. SANTO DOMINGO PAST AND PRESENT A GLANCE AT HAYTI SAMUEL HAZARD AUTHOR OP "CDBA WITH PEN AND PENCIL' s anb JIIu0tratt'0nB LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE CEOWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STEEET 1873 [All rights resened.] •TO THK ORIGINAL OF THIS THE DISTINGUISHED PRESIDENT OF CORNELL COLLEGE, N.Y., IN PLEASANT MEMORY OF DATS OF AGREEABLE COMPANIONSHIP, AS WELL AS OF SOME ROUGH EXPERIENCES AMID NOVEL AND BEADTIFOL SCENES IN SANTO DOMINGO, Wijtee '^asee are !ietitcatci( BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. ■^^ condensed form, for the benefit of the Jf' general reader, the facts connected with the history of the PREFACE. Island of St Domingo from its discovery by Columbus to tbe present time, illustrating, as much as possible, its scenes and people by his own sketcbes, and photographs and en- gravings gathered from various sources. At a time when the masses of the people of the United States were watching with interest the action of their repre- sentatives in Congress on the question of the admission of St Domingo into the Union, the author was surprised to find how little was really known, either of the present or the past of that historic isle ; and in endeavouring to obtain this information for himself, he was astonished to fiijd the great lack of books (at least accessible, and in the English language) giving connected information of an island that had for so long a time, and in so many ways, played such an important part in the history of the world. Joining afterwards, on the island, the Commission sent out by the United States Government, the author, after almost entirely circumnavigating the island, and traversing its length and breadth, was amazed to find so magnificent a part of the New World so generally uncultivated and even uncivilised, after having been the first chosen spot of settlement of the discoverers from the Old World. Having seen the comparatively advanced condition of affairs in the sister isle of Cuba (which is not nearly so highly favoured by Nature), and comparing it with the present deplorable state of St Domingo, the curiosity of the author was roused to know, if there were not other reasons than the reputed one of climate why an island so attractive and valuable in every way as St Domingo certainly is, should remain for so long a time unsettled and uncivilised. Coming to London, and consulting almost every early PRE FA CE. writer of note upon the Island of St Domingo found in the treasures of the British Museum, the author is satisfied that the past history, especially of the Spanish part of St Domingo, is little known to the general reader of to-day, and that in that history is found ample reason for the pre- sent condition of St Domingo and Hayti — a condition, he thinks, arising only from the fact that this beautiful island has simply been the •' victim of misfortunes," brought upon it by its being successively the battle and disputed ground of the Spaniards and Indians, the Buccaneers, the English, the French, the Spaniards, the Haytians, and, finally, the Dominicans themselves. " The truth is not always to be told," is an old adage, and it is possible that the notes on Hayti may give oifence to some ; but the author does not see that anything is to be gained by glossing over the present utterly hopeless condition of this part of the island, simply in consideration of the feelings of a few over-sensitive "patriots," because, even in the definition of this word, they and the writer might not agree. He has been surprised, however, to find, on reading over the accounts of the difierent writers who have visited Hayti since the expulsion of the French, how perfectly justified are their remarks and experiences by the condition to-day of affairs in that Kepublic (?). The author is sure no one more ardently hopes to see a change for the better, as well in the government as in the people of Hayti, than he, feel- ing as he does, that not only will the people of Hayti be benefited, but so will be the great causes of humanity and civilisation. As there may be readers who would like to follow out PRE FA CE. more in detail the subject treated of in this book, the author has given a list of the most valuable authorities which he has consulted at the British Museum, and to which he shall make little or no further reference in his work, though he confesses he has used them freely, even at times quoting their very language. Notwithstanding the number of these writers, they all go over pretty much the same ground in detached accounts, except some few who give greater de- tails, but only in matters peculiarly local, and that would not be interesting to the general reader, who, the author hopes, will find in the present volume all that can interest him. The map accompanying the work is compiled from the one ordered by the Dominican Government in 1858, from the survej's and data of Baron Schomburgh and the French engineer Mendez, the latest and most reliable chart of the entire island yet published. Paris, OcloUr 1872. CHAPTER I. ST DOMINGO. PAOr Its Extent, Locatiou, Physical Peculiarities— The Aborigines — Their Habits, Customs, &c., ... . 1 CHAPTER II. THE CONQUEST. Lauding of Columbus — First Settlement — Columbus's Return on Second Voyage, and Founding of the First Permanent Colony — Expeditions to the Interior — Settlements there — Rapid Advance of the Island — Columbus's Hard Treatment — Ovando's Rule, IS CHAPTER III. THE EAELY SPANIARDS. Their Treatment of the Natives — Ovando's Rule — Habits of the Spaniards — Negro Slaves— Rapid Decrease of the Aborigines — Sugar-making — Diego Columbus and his Successors — The War of Enrique, and Final Peace, . . 33 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. THE DECLINE OF ST DOMINGO. PAGE Failure of the Mines — Expeditions fitted out — Depredations on Spanish Vessels — Depopulation of the Island — Neglect of Spain — Its Colo- nial Policy — Drake's Attack — The Capture and Ransom of the Capital, ... .49 CHAPTER V. THE BDCCANEEES AND EARLY FRENCH. Origin of the Buccaneers — Their Manners and Customs — Settlement of Tortuga, and their Extension from thence under the Auspices of the French — Settlement of St Domingo, . . 68 CHAPTER VI. THE JOINT OCCnPATION OF THE FRENCH AND SPANIARDS. The Boundary Question — Poverty of the Spaniards — Advance of the French — Successful Agriculture — Tobacco and Indigo Culture — Cocoa- Trees — The Introduction of the Coffee-Plant — General Im- provement ot the whole Island— Character of the Inhabitants — French Luxury — Discontent of the Planters, . . -.89 CHAPTER VII. THE REVOLUTIONS OF FRENCH ST DOMINGO. Mode ot Government of the French — Discontent of the Planters — Their Desire for Independence — Aspirations of the Mulattoes — Ogfe's Attempt at Insurrection — The Revolution in France — Its Effects on St Domingo — Contentions among the Whites — Insurrec- tion of the Slaves — Participation of the English in the Affairs of the Island — Their Defeat, and Success of the Blacks — Cession of the Island to the French, . . . 113 CHAPTER VIII. todssaint's rule. The Independence of Hayti — Toussaint takes Possession of the Whole Island, giving it a Constitution — Affairs under Toussaint — Napo- leon Attempts to Restore the Island to the French — Details of Le Clero's Expedition — Toussaint's Capture — Rebellion against the French — Cristophe — Dessalines — Final Failure of the French, and CONTENTS. their Capture by the English Fleet — Dessalines Marches against the Spanish Part — His Discomfiture — His Cruelties in that Part of the Island — Becomes Emperor — His Cruelties and Butcheries o£ the Whites — Conspiracy against Him — His Death, . 133 CHAPTER IX. THE WJIOLE ISLAND UNITED UNDER ONE GOVERNMENT. Dessalines' Successors — Cristophe and Petiou — Civil War — Peace between the Two Chiefs — Troubles in the Spanish Part — The Expulsion of the French — Co-operation of the English — Restora- tion of the Authority of Spain — Rebellion against her Rule — Death of Cristophe and Petion — Boyer's Rule — Allegiance of the Spanish Part to Him — Condition of the Island — French Claims — Boyer's Decline — The Republic of Dominica, . . 154 CHAPTER X. LAND HO. Arrival in the Tropics — First Sight of Land — Turk's Island — Salt Keys — The Haytian Shore — The Dominican Coast — Arrival off Puerto Plata — Its Harbour — Funny Method of Going Ashore — A Night Visit — Historical Notes of the Town — Its Bay — Situation — Trade —People, . . . 172 CHAPTER XI. SAMANA AND THE SOUTH COAST. Cape Samana — Balandra Head — The Bay of Samana — Santa Barbara — General Account of Samana Bay — The Caves of San' Lorenzo — Savanna la Mar — Voyage round the South Coast, . . 195 CHAPTER XIL ST DOMINGO CITY. The United States Commission — First Impression of the City — Visit to Baez and his Cabinet— Historical Notes of the City — Its Present Condition and Appearance — Trade and Future Prospects — Schools The Mausoleum of Columbus— Dominican Amusements — San Carlos and the Exterior of the City— The Harbour as a Port- Well of Columbus— Mahogany Trade— Labourers, . 212 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. VIOINIIY OP ST DOMIHGO CITY. PAGE Natural Caves — The Caves of Santanna — The Boundary Line — Beata and Alta Vela Islands — Neyba — Salt Mines — Sugar Plantations — Azua — Oooa Bay, . . .... SS.*) CHAPTER XIV. THE HISTORY OF THE DOMINICAN BEPUBLIC, INCLUDING THE SPANISH POSSESSION, . . . . . 247 CHAPTER XV. JODRNEY OVEKLAND. Organising a Party — Our Route — Crossing the Ozama — Tropical Forests — Lunching " al fresco " — First Night Experiences — La Tosa — San Pedro — Natural Farm — Bad Roads — Apartments — The Country People — Rough Experiences — Grand Scenery — Sillon de la Viuda — Cevioo — Ride to Cotuy, . . . . . .274 CHAPTER XVI. Its Appearance, History, and Location — The Yuna River — An Old Church, and Novel Mode of Advertising — A Village Cemetery — A First Regular Meeting to Receive the Commissioner — Courtesy of the People — Swimming a River —The " Royal Road " — Hu-man-i- cu — Old Cocoa-Trees — Domestic Institutions — Woman's Rights — Reception at La Vega — The Town and its History — Hospitable Attentions — The only Steam-Engine — The " Grand" Cathedral — An OfiScial Breakfast — The Famous Hill Santo Cerro — Superb View of the Vega^The Old Town of La Vega— The Valley of Constanza — A Paradise — Arrival at Mocha — An Attractive Town — Pretty Girls — Handsome Cemetery — Eloquence of the Commis- sioner, and some Plain Talk, . . . 296 CHAPTER XVI L FROM MOCHA TO SANTIAGO. Improved Roads — Fine Lands — Reception at Santiago — Fii-st Sight of the Yaqui — Description of Santiago and the Gold Regions, . 319 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. FROM SANTIAGO TO MONTE CRISTO. PAGE The Puerto Plata Road — Fording the Yaqui — Its Bottom Lands — The Vega again — A Dangerous Insect — Polite " Guajiro "■ — Tobacco Culture — A Dry Country but Fine Climate — The Amina and Mao Rivers — Some Tropical Habits — Swimming the River at Guayubin — A Faro Bank and Hotel — Multiplicity of Generals — A Long Ride through a Sterile Country — The Agave Species — Monte Cristo — Left Alone on the Island — Manzanillo Bay — The Country South of the Yaqui — The Uninhabited Region — Crocodiles and Iguanas, .... 336 CHAPTER XIX. THE NOETH COAST LINE FROM MONTE CEISTO TO PUEETO PLATA. Lack of Water — Advantages of Irrigation — Tobacco Preparation — Dominican Soldiers and Haytian Battles — Country Hospitality — Used-up Horses — Fresh Start — The " Puerta de los Hidalgos " — Bottom Lands of the Coast — Impromptu Cooking — Old Isabella — Laguna — Domestic Economy — A Long Ride — Played-out Horse — The Road from Santiago to Puerto Plata — The Requeros — Rough Accommodations — Bad Road to Puerto Plata — Arrival there and Departure, . . . ... 361 CHAPTER XX. JOURNEY TO HAYTI. "Cosa Dominica" — Dauphin Bay — Poor Accommodations — Tropic Night at Sea — A Cuban Horror — Cape Haytian from the Sea — First Experiences in Hayti — Haytian Officials — Value of Haytian Currency — Advantage of being Supposed a United States Commis- sioner, . . . ... 387 CHAPTER XXL CAPE HAYTIAN. The Paris of the West Indies — Population, Commerce, &c. — Ruins of French Civilisation — Beautiful Views — Fear of American Encroach- ments — Duplicity of Officials — Arbitrary Government — Trip to Millot — Scenes on the Road — Arrival at Sans Souci — Strange Treatment — Polite Officials — " Taking " the Citadel — Cristophe the Emperor — Horrible Cruelties — Views of the People — Return to the Cape, . . . 402 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. PAGE HATTI FROM THE DEPARTDKE OF BOYER IN 1843 TO THE ADVENT OF SAGET IN 1870, . 423 CHAPTER XXIII. COASTING THE ISLAND. Passengers and Tropical Mode of Travel — Coast Scenery — Port de Pais — Tortuga Island — Sfc Nicholas Mole — Bay o£ Port-au-Prince — The Town — Odd Appearance — Lack of Hotels — Suburbs of Port- au-Prince — Pretty Country-Houses — Old French Places — La Coupe — Road-Making — Haytiau Soldiers — Feeling about Annexation — Noble Conduct of the United States Minister — Aiding the Domi- nican Revolutionists — ^ Visit to the Interior — Sugar Plantations — Lake Azuey— A Storm in lieu of a Dinner — A Long Ride in Bad Weather — Departure — Gonaives, . . . 441 CHAPTER XXIV. ArPBNDATORT. A General View of St Domingo — Some Reflections on its Future — Views of President Grant — Climate — Insects — Seasons — Lands — Emigrants — The Population and its Character — Finances — Conces- sions and Grants — Hints to Emigrants or Travellers — Dominican Manifestoes— General Statistics — Treaty for Fixing the Boundaries —Notes on the Mineral Products of the Island, . . 466 ILLUSTRATIONS. PRODUCTS OP BAUTO DOMINGO, THE NORTH COAST OFF PUERTO PLATA, OLD SANTO DOMINaO CITY, . ENTRANCE TO COFFEE ESTATE, TOWN AND EAT OP PUERTO PLATA, . PLAN OF SAMANA BAT, A TROPICAL MORNING, SOUTH COAST — LOS LLANOS, SAKTO DOMINGO CTTT, CATES OP SANTANNA, PARASITES — A ST DOMINOO BROOK, VIEW FROM BILLON DE LA VIUDA, . THE VEGA REAL FROM THE SANTO CERRO HILL, MOOHA, .... THE RIVER TAQUI, . SANTIAGO, .... CACTI! COUNTRY, NEAR MONTE CRISTO, FLOWERING ALOE, . MONTE CRISTO BAT, NEGRO HABITATIONS, CONUCO OF PLANTAIN AND TOBACCO, TOWN AND BAT OF THE CAPE, PALACE OP SANS SOUCI (MILLOT), . PORT-AU-PRINCE, . . Frontispiece, To face Page 4 62. 108 176 195' 197 207 212 239 282 287 311 316 321 324 339 351 352 368 384 402 415 449 LIST OF SMALL ENGRAVINGS. PAGE PAOE Portrait of Columbus, 1 Plan of Tortuga, 77 Caribbean Skull, . 9 Port de Paix, . . . . 83 Drums 10 Preparing Tobacco, . 92 Canoe (Oviedo), H Preparing Indigo, . 93 Huts (Oviedo), . 12 Old French Sugar Mill, . 95 Wine-making (Benzoui), . . 13 Old French Plantation, . 98 Idols, .... 13,14 Toussaint L'Ouverture, . 134 Figures cut in the Rock, . . 14 Jean Pierre Boyer, . 164 Curing the sick (Hakluyt, afte r Salt Keys, . . . . 173 Benzoni), . . 15 Going Ashore, . . . . 175 Hammock (Oviedo), 17 Loading Cargo, 175 Sketch by Columbus, 19 Street in Puerto Plata, . 177 The Caravels, . 20 The Old Fort, . . . . 178 The Agouti, . 22 Dominican American, 181 The Coati, 23 Market Square, 183 A Spanish Attack (De Bry), 26 Washing Clothes, . 184 A Spanish Master (De Bry), 35 Horse, 186 Spaniard in Litter, . 35 Water-carrier, . . . . 186 Sugar-making (De Bry), . 38 TheManati, . . . . 191 Suicides (Benzoni), . 39 Cabo Viejo (Old Cape), . 192 Gold-mining (De Bry), . 40 Cape Samana, .... 196 Punishment of Negroes (De Balandra Head, 197 Bry), . . . 45 Santa Barbara, 198 House of Don Diego Colum Donkey, . , . . . 202 bus, .... . 47 Meeting in Arsenal Square, 209 Hatero, .... 50 A Weary Traveller, . 211 An old Street in St Domingo The Ozama, — Ruins of Colum- City, . . . . 60 bus' House, 213 Sir Francis Drake, . 61 President Baez, 215 A Buccaneer, 71 Plan of St Domingo City, 219 A Boucan 72 Old Part of St Domingo, . 220 Merry-making, 74 Business Street, 221 Sir Henry Morgan, . 75 A Dominican School, 223 LIST OF SMALL ENGRAVINGS. PAGE PAOE The Mausoleum of Columbus, . 224 The Cotton Tree, . . 350 Cathedral Door, 226 Cayman, . . 355 Old Franciscan Monastery, 232 The Iguana, . . 358 St Domingo Ferns, . 236 Lizards, . . 364 Entrance to Cave, . 238 Machete, . . 367 Tamarind 240 Primitive Sugar Mill, . 369 Manuel Seybano, 242 Sugar Boilers, . . 369 Crossing the Isabella, 277 Pass of the Cavaliers, . 371 Musician, . . . . 278 WOd Hogs, . . 374 Sand-box Fruit, 278 Parasitical Vines, . . 376 A Natural Farm, . 279 Tarantula, . 377 Old Negro 282 Played out. . 380 A Native Hut, 284 On the Bajabonita, . . 381 Apartments 286 Point Isabella, . 385 Sensitive Plant, 288 Dauphin Bay, . 392 Royal Plain, .... 290 Cape Haytian from the S ea, . 393 Severino Gonzalez, . 292 The Nondescript, . . 394 The "Commandante," 293 Haytian Waiter, . 398 Plaza and Old Church, Cotuy, . 297 "BorddeMer," . . 404 Cemetery at Cotuy, . 299 A Mercantile House, . 405 Meeting at Cotuy, . 300 Old French Place, . . 407 " Camino Real," 302 William, . . 409 " La Fuente," .... 304 Squatters in Ruined Plac< ss, . 411 The Cocoa, .... 305 Haytians, . 420 The only Steam-Engine in St Haytian Coast, . 444 Domingo, .... 307 St Nicolas Mole, . . 445 La Vega, . . . . 308 United States Minister's E louse, 447 La Vega Cathedral, . 309 A Street in Port-au-Princ e, . 450 Mocha Cemetery, . 317 Bay of Port au Prince fro m the Vicinity of Santiago, Tobacco House of the United States Train, .... 321 Minister, . . 451 Market Square of Santiago 323 Countrywoman and " Pieca- Gold-washing (Oviedo), , 328 ninny," . 456 A "Guajiro, .... 341 Uncles and Mammies, . 460 The Vega Real, 343 Scorpion, . . 480 Gigantic Cactus, 344 Centipede, . 480 THE BIBLIOGRAPHY OF SANTO DOMINGO AND HAYTI. AcosTA (Joseph, de) — Historia Natural y Moral de las Indias, 4to, Seville, 1590. Alcedos (Antonio de) — Geographical and Historical Dictionary of the West Indies, with large additions from Modem Voyages and Travels, by G. A. Thompson, Lond. 1812. America — The History of the Buccaneers of, gathered from several languages into one vol., with copperplates, Lond. 1699. Voyagien de Spanjaarden na West Indien, Johan Lodewyk Gott- fried, Leyden, 1727. Encyclopedia des Voyages, par J. Grausset S. Sauveur, Paris, 1796. An Account of the Spanish Settlements in, 1 voL 8vo, Edin. 1762. L'Univers Pittoresque, Paris, 1849. or an Exact Account of the West Indies, especially the Spanish Pro- vinces, by N. N. Gent, 12mo, 1655. Annales des Voyages (Malte Brun), Paris, 1808. Anonymous — Les Principes de Revolutions en Haiti, privately printed (by General Cinna le Conte, a grandson of Dessalines). Antonio del Monte y Tejada — Historia de Santo Domingo, desde su Descubrimiento hasta Nuestras Bias, Madrid, 1860. / xxii BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ST DOMINGO. Archenholtz (J. M. Von) — History of the Pirates, Freebooters, &c., of America, translated by G. Mason, 1807. Ardouin (B.) — Etudes sur I'Histoire d'Haiti, &c., 11 vols. Paris, 1853-61. Atkins (Jokn) — Voyage to Guinea, Brazil, and West Indies, 8vo, calf, 1735. Babbb db Marbois — Etat des Finances de Saint Domingue, Paris, 1790. — — Observations Personelles si I'lntendant de Saint Domingue, Paris, 1790. Barcia (And. Gonzalez)— Historiadorea Primitives de las Indias Occiden.- tales, fol. Madrid, 1749. Beard (J. R.) — The Life of Toussaint L'Ouverture, 1 voL 12mo, illus- trated, Lond. 1853. Beckford — Descriptive Account of the Island of Jamaica, with Re- marks upon Sugar-cane Culture, Lond. 1790. Bellin (N.) — Description Geographique des Debouquemens qui sont au Nord de I'lsle de Saint Domingue, Versailles, 1773. Benzoni (Girolamo) — La Historia del Mondo Novo, Venetia, 1565. Bergeaud- Stella — Roman Historique d'Haiti, Paris, 1859. Berlioz dAuriac (J.) — La Guerre Noire, Souvenirs de Saint Domingue, Paris, 1862. Biggs (Wm.) — MUitary History of Europe from the commencement of the War with Spain, Lond. 1755. 'Bloncourt — Des Richesses Naturelles d'Haiti, Paris, 1861. Bonneau — Les Interdts Europdens k Santo Domingo, Paris, 1861. Bonnycastle (Sir R. H.)— Spanish America, 2 vols. 8vo, Lond. 1818. Bossi (Luigi) — Vita di Cristoforo Colombo, Milan, 1818. Bouvet de Cresse (A. J. B.)— Histoire de la Marine de tous les Peuples Paris, 1824. Brasseur de Bourbourg — Bibliotheque Mexico, Guatdmalienne, 8vo, Paris, 1871. Breton (J. B. J. de la Martiniere)— Histoire de I'lsle de Saint Domingue, 8vo, Paris, 1802. Browne (Dr Patrick)— CivU and Natural History of Jamaica, plates Lond. 1756. Caederera— Informe Sobre los Retratos de Cristobal Colon, Madrid 185L Casas (Barth. de las)— Obras del Obispo dela Ciudad Real de Chiapa en las Indias, &c., Seville, 1552. Chanca (Dr Alvarez Diego)— Letter addressed to the Chapter of Seville, 8vo, 1859. ^y BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ST DOMINGO. xxiii Charlevoix (Pierre Francois Zavier de) — Histoiie de I'lle Espagnol ou St Domingue, Paris, 1730. Charolais — Les Interets rran9aia et Europ^ens, h, Santo Domingo, Paris, 1861. Charton (M. Edouard) — Voyagers Anciens et Modemes, Paris, 1854. (This is one of the best collections of Voyages and Travels extant, and to which the author of this volume is much indebted. To readers of French it is invaluable.) Chuichill (John) — Collection of Voyages and Travels, 6 vols. Lond. 1744. Coke (Rev. Dr Thomas) — History of the West Indies, 3 vols. Lond, 1811. Collection (A New) of Voyages, 7 vols. 8vo, Lond. 1765. Colombo (Cristofori) — Discorso de Cesare Correnti, Milan, 1862. Paesi Nuovamente Retro vati, Vicenza, 1507. Memorials of Columbus, a Collection of Authentic Documents from original MS. at Genoa, Lond. 1823. Zee en Land Reysen, 1707. Select Letters of C. G, by R. H. Major, Hakluyt, Lond. 1847. Columbus, Lettre de, publi^e d'apres la rarissime version Latino con- servee a la Bibliotheq^ue Imperiale, Paris, 1865. D'Alaux — Sonlouque et Son Empire, Paris, 1856. Dalmas (M. Antoiue)— Histoire de la Revolution de Saint Domingue, &c., Paris, 1814. De Bry (Theodore)— Works of, principally the Edition of 1595, Frankfort. De la Gerontocratie en Haiti, Paris, 1860. D'Hormoys — Une Visite chez Sonlouque, Paris, 1859. Descourtilz — Guide Sanitaire des Voyaguers aui Colonies, ou ConseHs Hygieniques des Europ6ens destinte Jl passer aux Isles, 8vo, Paris, 1816. (M. E.) — ^Voyages d'un Natuialiste et ses Observations, 3 vols. Paris, 1809. Flore Pittoresque et Medicale des Antilles, 8 vols. Paris, 1829-33. DessaUes (M. Adrien)— Histoire G^n^rale des Antilles, 5 vols, in 3, 8vo, Paris, 1847-8. Diez (Juan de la CaUe)— Memorial y Noticias Sacras y Reales de las Indias Occidentales, 4to, Madrid, 1646. Domingans "Alerta," a political pamphlet, Santiago (St Domingo), 1852. Dorvo Soulastre— Voyage par Terre de St Domingo au Cap Francais. Paris, 1809. Drake (Sir Francis) Revived, or a Summary of Foure Severeal Voyages to / the West Indies, 4to, Lond. 1653. xxiv BIBLIOGRAPEY OF ST DOMINGO. Drake, Life and Voyages of, by John Barrow, Esq., Lond. 1843. Du Coeur Joly (S. G. ancien habitant de St Domingo) — Manuel des Habitans de Saint Domingue, 2 vols. Paris, 1802. Dutertre (J. B.) — Histoire Gendrale des Antilles habitues par les Francais, 4 vols. Paris, 1667-71. Edwards (Bryan) — Civil and Commercial History of the West Indies, 3 vols. fol. Lond. 1793, 1801. Feance — Colonies, BibUotbeque Historique de la Revolution, Paris, 1810-20. Franoisci (Erasmi) — Ost und West Lidiscben Lust nnd Staats Garten, Nuremburg, 1668. Franklin — Present State of Hayti, Lond. 1828. Frezier (M.) — Relation du Voyage de la Mer du Sud, &c., Amsterdam, 1717. Froger (Le Sieur) — Relation d'un Voyage fait en 1695-6-7 aux Indes, Antilles, &c., Paris, 1598. Gage (Thomas) — Survey of Spanish West Lidies, Voyages, &c., Lond. 1711. Garan Coulon (J. Ph.) — Rapport sur les Troubles de Saint Domingue, Paris. An Inquiry into the Causes of the Insurrection of St Domingo, Lond. 1792. "^ GJarcia (Jose Gabriel) — Compendio de la Historia de Santo Domingo, St Domingo, 1867. Gardyner (George) — Description of the New World, &c., as in the Year 1649, Lond. 1651. Gonzalez Carranza (Domingo) — A Geographical Description of the Spanish West Indies, Lond. 1740. Gomara (Fr. Lopez de) — La Historia General de las Indias, Anvers, 1554. Granier de Cassagnac (A.) — Voyage aux Antilles, Paris, 1843. Giyneus — Navigatio Novus Orbis, Basle, 1532.' QuiUermin (M. Gilbert E.)— Prdcis Historique des derniers Even^ments de la Partie de 1' est de St Domingue depuis 1808, &c., Paris, 1811. Guridi (Zavier Angulo)— Elementos, &c., de la Isla de Santo Domingo, St Domingo, 1866. Gumey (Joseph John)— A Wiuter in the West Indies, plates, Lond. 1840. Hakewell (James)— Picturesque Tour of the Island of Jamaica, 4to, coloured plates, Lond. 1825. BIBLIOGRAPHY OF ST DOMINGO. xxv Hakluyt's (Kictard) Voyages, History of the West Indies, Cr*^vemc.-u-7'. "S.la. hajjc i^rre vnjont Ui -Mi»^, C;UT'ori tie /aKoche ^ F, te CheMln. dc l a. ^ . -p V Plaa of Tortuga. World, was called from its peculiar shape, as seen from the sea, " Tortuga de Mar," or sea- turtle, and is described at this time as a rocky isle, upon whose face grew roots of trees like ivy against a wall ; the north of the island, precipitous, rough, and unhealthy, affording no shelter whatever. On the south side there was only one port, indifferently good, but having two entrances, allowing the passage of seventy-gun ships. The lowlands contained the town of the port, where lived the principal and richest planters. On the island there was abundance of wood for ship-building, fruits, medicinal plants, &c., while wild boars, pigeons, landcrabs, and sea-crabs, abounded. SANTO DOMINGO. Sometime after "Willis liad been made captain, a French freebooter arrived on the island, and not being pleased at finding so many of his countrymen under the authority of an English leader, he returned to the Island of St Christopher, where the French were re-established under the command of Chevalier de Poincy, a Knight of the Order of Malta. To him was made known the condition of affairs at Tortuga. De Poincy immediately took steps to secure the island for the French : and there being at the time at St Chris- topher an engineer. Captain le Vasseur, an arrangement was made by which he should proceed to Tortuga as Gover- nor. On his arrival at that island he was well received by the French inhabitants ; and they being largely in the majority, the English were compelled to leave the island quietly in possession of the French, the former proceeding to Jamaica. Le Vasseur being thus in command, and fearing the return of the . Spaniards, built a fort on the top of a high rock that completely commanded the port and entrance with its battery of two guns. De Poincy, however, began to mistrust his Governor, Le Vasseur, and therefore organised an expedition to fully establish his authority over Tortuga; but, on its arrival at that island, it was found that Le Vasseur had just died, and the troops of De Poincy being well received by the colonists, order was soon established. Hardly was this done when the Spaniards in strong force again appeared, and a large number of the male inhabitants being absent, the island was captured, the Governor retiring within the fort, where he was besieged ; but making a stout defence, he was finally permitted by the Spaniards to leave the island with his people, with all the honours of war, carrying with them their arms. The Spaniards then left a garrison of some sixty men, and it remained in their possession until De Rossy, a gentleman of Perigord, and who had previously been a ISLAND OF TORTUGA. 79 pirate, determined, after the death of De Poincy, the Grovernor of St Christopher, to recapture Tertuga. Arrang- ing his plans with great skill, he surprised the Spaniards, and took the fort from a side they thought inaccessible ; and then sending the Spanish prisoners in a boat to Cuba, he re-established the authority of the French upon the island. Leaving his nephew, De la Place, as his proxy, De Rossy returned to France, where he died, De la Place governing until 1664, when the West India Company took possession in right of their charter, which gave them exclusive control over the trade of the French Antilles. This company sent to Tortuga a garrison with a number of military and civic officers, appointing D'Ogeron as Gover- nor ; and from that time began a period of prosperity and success for this island and the western part of St Domingo. D'Ogeron, acting under the company, established store- houses and dwellings for the servants and business of the company; and being a man thoroughly familiar with these islands and their inhabitants, acted with judgment and success. A guarantee of safety and protection being thus given to this island and its ports, numbers of traders, merchants, and pirates, were attracted there as a place both safe and convenient in which to transact their business, and its port soon became a busy and important place. The lands began now to be regularly cultivated, and the number of people increasing, soon spread themselves out upon the mainland of St Domingo; and war being declared between the Spaniards and Portuguese, commis- sions were issued to privateers to make war on Spanish commerce. With a view to make the settlers on land more con- tented with their lot, and to attach them permanently to their lands, D'Ogeron had a number of women brought 80 SANTO DOMINGO. out from France, and either bestowed them upon, or sold them to, the settlers. These women were the very- dregs of the Paris courtesans, and were assigned as so much merchandise amongst the rude, uncouth buccaneers; and it is quite amusing to see in what a perfectly matter- of-fact way they took possession of their new helpmates : — " I take thee without knowing, or caring to know, who thou art. If anybody from whence thou comest would have had thee, thou wouldst not have come in quest of me. But no matter; I do not desire thee to give me an account of thy past conduct, because I have no right to be offended at it at the time when thou wast at liberty to behave either ill or well according to thy own pleasure, and because I shall have no reason to be ashamed of anything thou wast guilty of when thou didst not belong to me. Grive me only thy word for the future ; I acquit thee of the past." Striking then his hand on the barrel of his gun, he added, " This will revenge me of thy breach of faith ; if thou shouldst prove false, this will surely be true to my aim." Not a very encouraging style of wooing, even for a courtesan. From this time forward the Island of Tortuga, and the adjoining portion of St Domingo, rapidly advanced in importance, and the history of the French and buccaneers becomes identified. As Tortuga grew in importance, many of the class of habitans had sought the seaside of the Island of St Domingo, establishing there, on the most convenient places, their plantations of tobacco, corn, &c., until almost the entire coast of the western part of the island was inhabited by these people, and newcomers were forced to go further inland, by which process the main island had gradually became tolerably well settled. The part where these people first located was known as the Cul-de-sac, a large valley in the west, extending to the sea; and the in- D'OGERON. 81 habitants increased so fast, that in 1672 there were 2000 planters. At first they incurred much hardship, as they were not able to leave the island to procure provisions, and the labour of clearing the ground was very great, filled as it was with trees and roots. They first planted beans, but they ripened and died away in six weeks ; then the potato was laid, which did well, and following this, the manioc or cassava ; and subsequently, when all manner of fruits were raised to sustain life, the culture of tobacco was entered into extensively. Under D'Ogeron, who seems to have been a man of sound judgment and great energy, the French colony of St Domingo made rapid strides. Although constant dis- putes were occurring with the Spaniards in reference to boundaries, and although on the frontier the planters were compelled to work in their fields with arms by their sides, yet such was the wisdom of D'Ogeron, who had been con- firmed as Governor of the entire French possessions, that, in marked contrast to the Spaniards, the French were rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. The year 1666 was a famous year in the annals of the entire island, being known as the year of the " Slkcs," and the population suffered severely from the ravages of small-pox, dysentery, and other diseases that prevailed as epidemics. In endeavouring to extend the influence of French authority over the Island of St Domingo, D'Ogeron met with some opposition from the planters, who, having opened a trade with the Flemings, thought it more profitable to continue that, and refused to recognise the French right to the exclusive trade of the island, on the ground that they were neutrals in neutral territory. But D'Ogeron, with prompt decision, made an attack on the mutineers, and, having defeated them, hung several by way of example. His efforts having alarmed the Flemish traders, 82 SANTO DOMINGO. they ceased to visit the island, which was thus restored to tranquillity ; and as many families came out from Brit- tany and Anjou, the island from that time began a won- derful career of progress and prosperity. As the Spaniards, after their various raids on the French settlers, had left no garrisons to prevent their return, the latter quickly returned to their desolated places, and with renewed energy and enterprise rebuilt their plantations. Still such a guerilla war was kept up, that there was no peace for those hardy settlers who were forced to labour in their fields with their ' firearms within reach, until D'Ogeron, indignant at these repeated attacks, and the losses his colony had sustained, conceived the idea of conquering the whole of the Spanish part, and with this idea organised a force of 500 men, which he placed under the command of the freebooter Delisle, with instructions to take the city of Santiago, next to the capital the most important town in the island. Delisle with his troops debarked in 1669 at Puerto Plata on the north coast, and from thence marched upon Santiago, which place he found had been abandoned by its inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the town of Concepcion de la Vega. Finding, however, that Delisle intended to burn their city, they paid him a ransom to leave it intact, with which he retired by the route he had come. Encouraged by this attempt at retaliation, the French spread themselves out in the beautiful plain of Limonade near Cape Francais, hoping henceforth to be freed from annoyance by the Spaniards ; and as immediately opposite the isle of Tortuga there was a fine bay, the shores of which were surrounded by high and fertile hills, a per- manent settlement, which afterwards grew into a large town, was located there. This bay was known as Port de Paix or Port of Peace. D'Ogeron also in 1674 sent reinforcements to Samana, DE P0UANG7. 83 whicli had been attacked by the Spaniards, but without success. So encouraged was the Governor by the rapid increase of the French colony, that he determined to return to France, and endeavour to induce the home Grovernment to send out a strong force, with which he pledged himself he would conquer the whole island for the French — a promise which, without doubt, from the weak state of the Port de Paix. Spanish colony, he would have been able easily to have kept. Unfortunately he died the following year in France, and the colony lost in him one of the best governors it ever had. He was, however, succeeded by De Pouancy, his nephew, who, though a most excellent man, does not appear to have been endowed with the same extended and liberal ideas as his uncle ; and he, fearing that the settle- ment at Samana could not be maintained, withdrew the 84 SANTO DOMINGO. inhabitants of that place to Cape Francais, where a per- manent establishment had been already made. The French, following the example of the Spaniards, had in the past few years gone largely into the slave trade, several fleets loaded with their himian freights having from time to time arrived at Tortuga, from whence their cargoes of negroes were distributed among the French planters, by whom they were set to work cultivating their lands upon the main island of St Domingo. Even at this early period in the island's history, the cruelties practised upon the slaves were so great, that in 1678 a rising among the negroes took place, incited by a negro named Padrejan, who, having killed his Spanish master, had fled to Tortuga for refuge ; but fearing to be captured and punished some day by the Spaniards, and seeing the discontent of the negroes on the French plan- tations, he resolved to make use of this as a means to restore himself to favour with his former masters. Inciting, therefore, a number of slaves to join him, he began to attack the French settlements, killing the in- habitants and burning their places, finally retiring to the mountain fortress of Tarare, where he intrenched himself. His incursions annoyed the French to such a degree, that there was no peace or safety so long as he remained uncon- quered, and a number of buccaneers coming into Port de Paix, Governor De Pouancy made a contract with them to attack and capture Padrejan ; and they, having carried out their plans with great vigour and resolution, succeeded in killing and dispersing the negro chief and his followers. Although on this occasion these pirates had rendered such signal service to the island, they were not considered as very desirable colonists, from their restless habits and indisposition to recognise any regularly constituted autho- rity, and though at this time they were much reduced in numbers, there were yet enough scattered throughout the island to make trouble when united with the factious BE CUSSY. 85 spirits among the planters, who at this time were in a state of discontent from certain restrictions and mono- polies of the West India Company, particularly in regard to tobacco. Up to 1684, neither religion nor justice were admin- istered in the French colony ; and in that year two com- missioners were sent out from France to concert measures with Governor De Cussy for the better regulation of the colony. Courts of judicature were established for the several districts, responsible to a supreme council at Petit Goave ; and relief was asked from the home Government, without success, for the removal of the restrictions which had been imposed upon commerce, particularly on the article of tobacco. When De Cussy first arrived on the island, he found the inhabitants there fretting at this monopoly of tobacco by the Government, which farmed it out, and they im- mediately prayed the Governor to remove it ; but this not having been acceded to, they, perhaps fearing a like monopoly, destroyed their plantations of cotton and indigo, and devoted themselves to the culture of cocoa, the first plantation of which had been established by D'Ogeron. Tortuga having now become almost deserted by the planters who sought the mainland, De Cussy endea- voured to induce settlers to locate on that island, but without success, and the island finally came to be utterly deserted, its inhabitants and trade going to strengthen the new town of Port de Paix, nearly opposite on the main island. And thus this place, once of such great historic interest in the civilisation of the New World, entered a state of decay and oblivion, from which it seems never to have recovered. In the year 1685, in France was published the cele- brated edict by Louis XIV. that became famous under the name of the Code Noir, and that was to have such 86 SANTO DOMINGO. an effect upon the affairs of the coloured population of the West Indies, as it was made to prescribe the duties of master and slave, and the privileges of the free coloured men. In 1689, war having been declared between France and Spain, M. de Franquesnay had been sent to the island to organise expeditions of the freebooters against the Spanish possessions in South America and Mexico; the Governor, De Cussy, availed himself of the return of this expedition from Panama to conduct, in 1689, another one against the Spanish town of Santiago de los Caballeros. Al- though he encountered a force of Spaniards, who made a strong defence, on the banks of the Amina, he succeeded in taking that place, where his men, partaking of the meat left in the houses, were many of them taken suddenly sick, and believing they had been purposely poisoned by the Spaniards, De Cussy in revenge ordered the city to be first sacked and then burned down, having accomplished which he withdrew his forces. The Spaniards, however, soon took revenge for this attack, for the Spanish part of the island being under the conamand of the royal admiral, Don Ignacio Caro, he organised a considerable expedition against the French. This expedition, organised in 1691, consisted of 2600 men that entered the French territory from two points : by land from the frontiers of the Cibao, and by sea at the Port of Bayaja (or Port Dauphin) for the purpose of attacking Cape Francais. De Cussy, getting news of the movement, organised, with De Franquesnay, a large force, and gave battle to the Spaniards at Sabana Real, January 21, 1691. The result of this battle was for a long time uncertain, until Antonio Miniel, a native of Santiago, who had held in ambush some 300 lancers, seeing the fight going against the Spaniards, gave the signal to his men to attack, when, falling upon the French, a great slaughter ensued, among BU COSSE. those killed being the Governor De Cussy, Franquesnay, and other distinguished officers, the entire French force being defeated. Following up their victory, the Spaniards entered the French territory, burning and devastating everything in their way, and putting to the sword all the inhabitants they met, until arriving at the town of Gruarico (Cape Francais), they sacked that place, giving quarter only to the women and children, after which they retired to their own part of the island, leaving the French in such a pros- trated condition, that when the new Governor, Dumas, took command, he was not able to muster a thousand men capable of bearing arms. It is probable that a long time would have elapsed before the French could have recovered from this severe blow inflicted on them, had it not been that at this juncture the English forces attacked and took the island of St Christopher from the French, owing to which cir- cumstance some 300 persons from that island came to St Domingo, and settled down at Cape Francais and its vicinity, giving thereby a little new life and energy to those people, already harassed to despair. The Court of France, in 1691, replaced the dead De Cussy by appointing as Governor Du Cosse, who had pre- viously been employed in the French service at Senegal. On his arrival at St Domingo he found the colony almost depopulated, and in a deplorable state, and the fillibusters almost extinct ; but with wise administration and skilful management he restored some new life to the colony, and encouraged the culture of indigo. In 1694, only two years after, he made a descent upon the Island of Jamaica, held by the English, and carry- ing off 3000 slaves from that island, took also a great quantity of indigo. In revenge for this disaster caused by Du Cosse, the English Government united its forces with Spain, and 88 SANTO DOMINGO. together they sent an expedition of twenty-four sail, with 4000 men, which rendezvoused in the Bay of Manzanillo on the north side of the island, where they were joined by a force of 2000 men, that the Spanish Governor, Don Fran- cisco Segura, had sent from the capital of the island. The expedition proceeded first against Cape Francais, which it took, and afterwards to Port de Paix. Both these places were destroyed, the men being carried off as prisoners by the English, while the Spaniards carried with them to St Domingo the women and children ; the allies thinking it better to retire laden with booty than to await an attack threatened by Du Cosse, the Governor, who had endeavoured to collect an army with which to resist the threatened invasion of these combined forces. The French population was further strengthened by the arrival of some of the inhabitants from the Island of St Croix, CHAPTER VI. ' How pleasant, in the burning noon of day Beneath the verdant canopy to stray, "Where ranks of palms their branching honours spread. That arch in Gothic aisles above the head ! " The Joint Occupation of the French and Spaniards — The Boundary Question — Poverty of the Spaniards — Advance of the French — Successful Agriculture — Tobacco and Indigo Culture — Cocoa Trees — The Introduction of the Coffee Plant — General Improvement of the whole Island — Character of the Inhabitants — French Luxury — Discontent of the Planters. A LTHOUGrH Spain had at no time, previous to the ■^-^ peace of Eyswick, recognised the right of any other power to locate upon St Domingo, it will be seen how, by that treaty, the French came to acquire a permanent hold upon this island ; and while the Spanish inhabitants were rapidly decreasing in numbers, and their settlements decaying, the French had prosecuted their opportunities with such vigour, that they had become masters of the entire western portion of the island. The allied powers of Europe happily having signed, in 1697, a peace at Eyswick, by which Spain regained all the conquests made from her by France since the treaty of Nimeguen, and the right of France to occupy and hold as her own territory the western part of the Island of St Domingo being conceded, there was, in the next few years, opportunity afforded for the inhabitants of that unfor- 90 SANTO DOMINGO. tunate isle to improve their condition, of wMcli the French, with their usual energy, were not slow to avail them- selves ; while, on the contrary, the Spanish portion seemed to use it only to sink deeper and deeper into decay. In fact, from the moment the French Government succeeded in getting a permanent hold upon the Island of St Domingo, the Spanish authorities appear to have lost their interest in their share of the colony, and nothing was henceforth done to assist its progress. In truth, the island was almost disowned by the Spanish Government ; and such had been the effect of the attack of the pirates on the commerce of Spain, that it was with extreme diffi- culty that ships to and from Mexico and Peru succeeded in making their voyages. In yielding, therefore, in 1697, part of the Island of St Domingo to France, Spain made no particular sacrifice. To her the island had been, for many years, only a burden ; and it is an undisputed fact, that, so far from this island yielding any revenue to the home Govern- ment, the latter had been forced to expend an annual sum of $200,000 for some years in payment of salaries and expenses in keeping this island to herself, this amount being appropriated from the revenues yielded by Mexico and Peru. In the Spanish territory, such was the lamentable con- dition of this beautiful island, so rich in every gift of Nature, that the inhabitants, say the chroniclers of the time, had not clothes actually to cover their nakedness, the women being forced to attend a mass specially celebrated at night, in order that their poverty and nudity should not be seen, they not daring to present themselves in the daytime on the streets. Bread was at an exorbitant price ; and we may judge that these reports were undoubtedly true, when we learn that even the clergy had no bread or wine for the sacraments, while the churches were utterly despoiled of their ornaments. EXTREME POVERTY. 91 In fact, the poverty of this colony was so extreme, that when the money arrived from Mexico to pay the salaries of the officers at St Domingo city, the day was made one of rejoicing and festivity, the reception of the funds being announced by the ringing of bells and the huzzas of the people. So far from this condition of things, in the Spanish part, being improved in the following years, matters went even worse, and the island became almost a wilderness ; and although an attempt was made to increase the popula- tion by bringing some families from the Canary Islands, it did not succeed, for as many inhabitants left St Do- mingo as had the means ; and we learn by the census of 1730, that the entire population of the island was reduced to 6000, St Domingo city itself not having more than 500 inhabitants, its houses being closed, and port and streets deserted, while most of the other towns became extinct, leaving only a few worthy to be called such. These were Cotuy, Santiago, Azua, Banica, Monte Plata, Baya- guana, Higuey, and Seybo. The first French, as has been before stated, having settled along the coast, followed the chase of the wild cattle as long as there were any to hunt; but as they killed faster than Nature propagated, it was not long before this means failed them, and they soon began to rely upon the supplies of cattle furnished by the Spaniards. The chase was succeeded by the cultivation of tobacco, which seems to have been a favourite labour with them ; and although their methods of preparing it were rude in the extreme, it was a source of great wealth to the early planters, until, becoming disgusted with its monopoly by the Government, which farmed out to private indi- viduals this valuable trade, they devoted their attention to other products. It stands now a curious fact in connec- tion with Hayti, that the lands that, under the early white settlers, produced not only enough tobacco for their own 92 SANTO DOMINGO. consumption, but as an important article of commerce, lie to-day uncultivated and unproductive, not from any fault of the soil, tut from the utter worthlessness of the present population. Preparing Tobacco. Under such a short-sighted policy of the French Govern- ment, although the population increased in numbers, the colony for a few years languished, until revived by the cultivation of the indigo plant. For some time after the discovery of the island, the Spaniards cultivated a little indigo, and at the end of the sixteenth century they sent considerable quantities of it to the mother country ; but on the decay of the Spanish part of the island, its culture was soon abandoned, although it continued to grow so INDIGO PLANTATIONS. 93 luxuriantly in its wild state, as to be looked upon as a mere weed. The French, however, found it greatly to their interest to cultivate it, and prepare it, though in a Preparing Indigo. primitive way, for the markets of Europe ; and to the culture of this plant the permanent success of the French on the island may be considered justly due. Every one wished to have negroes and augment his lands, and it was at this time that one planter began to acquire the land of another to augment his own portion. Now, too, grants were asked for, which formed what was called the second story, or second line of tracts, behind those first established on the coast. The success of the indigo, the increase of the popula- tion, and of the number of negroes produced by those brought by Du Casse from his raid on Jamaica, gave the first idea of establishing sugar plantations. These gave a new value to the lands ; and requiring larger tracts than 94 S A IT TO DOMINGO. the indigo plantations, several small ones were united, and became tlie property of one person. He who had sold his lot on the coast, carried his industry to the second, third, or fourth line, and succes- sively towards the interior of the colony; and thus the whole country gradually came under cultivation with a large population. The only thing not keeping pace with this progress being the cattle, for . the French never seem to have paid much attention to cattle-raising, although encouraged to do so by the Government, so that, as this means of subsistence decreased, they became more and more dependent upon their Spanish neighbours, who, seeming to have a natural aptitude for this business, had established " hatos " or grazing farms all over their part of the island ; in fact, with one exception, this was their only occupation. This exception was the cultivation of the cocoa or choco- late plant, which was a native of the Spanish part of the island, and is said, at one time, to have produced in value as much as the mines of the island. In fact, in the six- teenth century, there was no other cocoa known except St Domingo cocoa, and Spain was entirely provided with it from this island alone. The French, led by the example of their Governor, D'Ogeron, who, in 1665, had planted the first tree on the French part, had created a considerable revenue by the cultivation of this plant, the plantations of which had increased in every direction, particularly in the narrow valleys to the west of the island, where, it is stated, in some of the places there were not less than 20,000 trees. Up to 1716 this product flourished amazingly, when, in that year, for no known reason, the entire stock of trees failed to produce, and went to decay; and it was not until 1736 they were again cultivated, when they flourished extremely well, many of them reaching a height of thirty feet. The cocoa of St Domingo has been always considered FINE ESTATES. ^5 as more acidulated than that of the celebrated Caraccas, to ■which it is not inferior, and experience has proved that a mixture of the two gives a more delicate flavour than that possessed by either alone. So rapidly had the fortunes of some of the early planters been made, that we find that in 1715-17, many of them, with a view of enjoying their means, gained, in many cases, after long years of toil and absence from their native country, returned to France, carrying with them their means, invested in the securities of the Mississippi Com- pany. Unfortunately they proved worthless, and many of these planters were forced to return to St Domingo, and begin life anew. Others, however, satisfied to remain ou the island and continue their agricultural labour, had created for them- selves fine estates, either for the growth of sugar, cocoa, or Old French Sugar Mill. indigo ; and although the machinery for the manufacture of the former product would be considered rude in com- parison with the superb appliances that steam machinery 96 SANTO DOMINGO. has called into existence, and which are seen in perfection to-day on the sugar estates of Cuba, yet the buildings on many of these places were erected with not only an eye to comfort and stability, but to beauty also. None of these places are to-day to be seen intact ; but from the authorities of the time we get illustrations of what they were. In 1720, a permission, originally granted to the West India Company, and then revoked, to bring out negroes from Guinea, was renewed, giving them exclusive privilege, in accordance with their offers, to carry to American islands, 3000 negroes per anniim. In its list of members, it is stated, this company had the names of those most distinguished in France, in the army, navy, law, or finance ; and the effect at first in the colony was, that every one prepared to increase his extent of land, hoping to secure some of this imported labour to work it. The colonists, however, becoming dissatisfied with tbis privilege, which allowed the company to exact sucb exorbi- tant prices for the negroes as it chose, and having in remembrance the sad effects of the Mississippi Company, rose up in open hostility to it, insomuch, that when the agents of the company arrived, the colonists burned the warehouses, shouting, " Long live the King, but no com- pany." While protesting their fidelity to the King, they went so far, however, as to arrest his Governor, Sorel ; and a general uprising and discontent was inaugurated, which was not finally allayed until 1728, when the privileges of the company ceased, and quiet was entirely restored. The whole secret of tbis trouble appears to have been, that at this time great scarcity of negroes existed in pro- portion to the number of acres divided among the individual planters ; and as their riches would be most assuredly added to by increasing the number of slaves on each plantation, the planters wished to have the privilege of bringing in, on THE COFFEE-PLANT. 97 individual account, as many negroes as they desired, as they claimed the company took all the profit of the trade, and none of its risks, since the planter had to bear the loss of the slaves if they died in the process of being acclimated. Land being so plentiful, it was granted out on certain restrictions for a merely nominal sum, and success then depended upon the number of slaves that could be obtained to clear and cultivate this land. The slave population at this time amounted to 42,895 negroes, for some of which the West India Company were yet unpaid, the planters having suffered severely from the drought that prevailed in 1726. Two young coffee-trees had been given to Louis the Fourteenth, by the Hollander Pancras, superintendent of the Garden of Plants at Amsterdam. Some years after they were transported to Martinique by Desclieux ; there these trees succeeded admirably, and a short time after- wards they transported numerous shoots to St Domingo, which propagated with an astonishing rapidity, and from St Domingo the coffee-plant spread to all the other West Indies. In 1732, by an order that seems now very strange, the French Government prohibited, in St Domingo, the cul- tivation of the coffee-tree, on the plea that its inhabitants, having slave labour, could cultivate other products with profit, while the small planter of some of the other French islands had his existence depending upon this culture alone, as being adapted to white labour. Perhaps had this order not been issued, the planter of St Domingo would not have been so dependent 6n the slave labour, which was the final cause of the loss of the colony to France ; the restriction was, however, taken off in 1 735, when cocoa planting was also encouraged. With ail these materials of success, the French colony, notwithstanding the few drawbacks above mentioned, made the most astonishing progress in prosperity up to G 98 SANTO DOMINGO. the period of the French Eeyolution, and its history in this time presents some curious and interesting facts. One of the native writers, speaking of the period 1737, says, " At this epoch of its greatest splendour, no spectacle more magnificent needs to be seen than the state of cultivation on this queen of the Antilles. Nature appeared to smUe upon the laborious efforts of an active population wresting from this most fertile soil the most immense riches." old Freuoli Plantation. But the philanthropist trembled at that rapid prosperity which was due to the forgetfulness of the most precious rights of man, in supporting amongst themselves a mere handful of planters. As luxurious as Asiatics, they had became hardened in their hearts ; and the poor slave who made their riches was looked upon and treated as no better than a beast of burden. It was not in the nature of things that the French should make such rapid progress, without a people so near to them as the Spaniards deriving some benefit from the trade that quickly sprung up in the peaceable intervals of the petty quarrels concerning boundaries. SPANISH PROGRESS. 99 Fortunately, too, for tlie Spanish part, a Governor had been appointed who displayed great energy and intelli- gence in improving that hitherto neglected colony. This was Don Pedro Zorrillo, appointed in 1737 to the entire command of that part. The Spaniards were already addicted to contraband trad- ing, when the war between Spain and England breaking out in 1740, gave a new impetus to this trade, which rapidly assumed the form of privateering upon the English com- merce between North America and England. Following this was the wise and independent policy of the Spanish Governor, in throwing open the ports of St Domingo to the trade of neutral nations, of which advan- tage the Dutch and Danes particularly availed themselves. The result was quickly seen in the rapid disappearance of the misery of that part of the island, and the new life given to agricultm'e, which, with the export of the native products, gave a new circulation to money. A large increase of population took place with the increase of trade, and with the newcomers came such supplies of merchandise, that necessary articles were no longer beyond the reach of purchase of the inhabitants. New attempts, in 1747, were also made to open up the mines, and this was not confined to the working of the old mines merely, but also to those of copper, iron, &c., though no positive results appear to have been achieved. In 1751 the Spanish part suffered also from a terrible earthquake, that did an immense amount of damage, destroying entirely the old town of Azua ; while in the same year the Ozama, during a heavy freshet, rose to such a height as to wash the very walls of St Domingo city, causing much damage. The people, however, of the island, seem to have become so habituated to these destructive affairs, that they never entirely despaired of seeing their island in an improved state; and we learn that, in 1756, Monte Cristo, a flourish- 100 SAFTO DOMINGO. ing town on the north coast, one of those towns which had been destroyed by order of the Grovernment in 1606, was again revived as the port for the embarkation of the products of the great Cibao region, of which La Vega and Santiago were then the principal towns. A large number of families from the Canary Islands increased its population ; while it was declared a neutral port, a step that benefited the whole island ; for the French and English being at war, the prizes gained by the priva- teers of those respective nations were brought in there, and an active commerce was the result. Many strangers flocked to the island ; others, gaining riches, settled down to agri- cultural pursuits, and poor devastated St Domingo again looked up. This progress in the Spanish part was assisted too by the war that broke out in 1762 between England and her ally Portugal against France, Spain, and Naples ; for the Dominican Spaniards hastened to resort to a calling with which they were by this time well familiarised, and their privateers soon waged injurious war upon the commerce of the English in the West Indian waters, the prizes they took being carried to St Domingo, where the cargoes were sold to the inhabitants, or to the foreign merchants doing business there. The slave population of the Spanish part by this means was also much increased, as many prisoners were taken from the slavers in those waters. With the increase of commerce, a large trade sprung up in the cattle of the island, particularly with the French, who were now constantly in need, for food and labouring purposes, of the cattle, horses, and mules with which the Spanish part was inmiensely stocked. Many new towns were founded, and, their population increasing, became permanently established ; among these were Bani, Caobas, San Miguel, and others, some of which are to-day extinct. Peace having been declared between the European powers, Charles the Third in 1765 made an immense step TREATY OF ARANJUEZ. 101 forward, benefiting his colonies in opening their ports to a more liberal and general commerce, and removing the restriction which confined the ports of Spain to Cadiz and Seville alone. In this benefit St Domingo shared, as well as her sister isle of Cuba; and prosperous as has been the latter in our day, in the middle of the eighteenth century- she was as backward as St Domingo; for in 1730 the entire population of Cuba did not amount to 120,000 souls, while the capital city, Havana, contained not over 500 families. Up to 1776 innumerable had been the disputes be- tween the two nationalities as to the boundary line that should mark the extent of the frontier between French and Spanish St Domingo ; and though no regular agree- ment seems ever to have been ratified, yet, by tacit con- sent, a boundary defined by the river Eebouc (now G-uayu- bin), commencing near Isabella, and extending in an in- direct line to the south side of the island, in the vicinity of Petit Groave, was observed by both sides, the country west of this being held by the French. Many quarrels had nevertheless taken place, and much blood was shed, and bad feeling engendered; but, strange to say, the Spaniards, though the weaker party, managed to increase the extent of their boundaries. At last, however, an act was about to be done that seemed calculated to bring peace and quiet to both parts of the island, and to make amends for some of the misfor- tunes that had afllicted it. The boundary division of the two powers was to be finally adjusted. On the 29th Feb- ruary a treaty was signed at Atalaya, between the Brigadier Don Jose Solano y Bote, Governor of the Spanish part, and Count Ennery, Governor of the French part, fixing, as plenipotentiaries of the two Governments, the permanent boundary, the which was marked out by an officer appointed by each party by fixing landmarks, some of which are said to be in existence to-day. This treaty was ratified by the respective home Govern- 102 SANTO DOMINGO. ments at Aranjuez, June 3, 1777, and distinctly stated the boundary as beginning at the mouth of the river Massacre (Dajabon) on the north coast, and ternainating at the mouth of the Pedernales on the south coast, the dividing line being very irregular in its direction, but being marked at dif- ferent intervals by stone pyramids, numbered from 1 to 221, upon which were cut the words " France," " Espana." As this treaty has become of considerable importance in Do- minican and Haytian affairs, the reader will find it in full in the Appendix. In honour of this treaty, Charles the Third declared free the commerce between the two parts of the island, a first-fruit of peace by which the Spaniards profited much, since they only had cattle to give in ex- change for the abundant stores of merchandise of every variety with which the French were well supplied. Charles the Third also abolished, in 1778, the monopoly of the " Casa de Contracion " of Seville, by which the ports of St Domingo city and Monte Cristo profited very much ; and from this period the Spanish part appears to have made considerable progress, though not by any means to compare with the French. Dajabon, a new town, was established, and rapidly sprung into importance as a trading place on the frontier. St Domingo city, which had been almost in ruins a few years back, was rebuilt. San Juan, Banica, Santiago, and Azua had recovered from the effects of the earthquake of 1751 ; while Samana, Savana la Mar, and Puerto Plata were all well established and in a fiourishing condition. By the various causes above mentioned, the population had been materially increased ; and an immense number of fugitive slaves sought refuge in the Spanish part from the terrors of French slavery, and settling down to agri- culture, they soon became an element in the population which had by this time become well mixed. It is a conceded and curious fact, that while the early Spaniards of St Domingo had been the severest of task- SLAVE LAWS. 103 masters to their negro slaves, as time wore on they seem, for some reason or other, to have lost this habit, and their slaves were infinitely much better treated than those of the French. This may partly be accounted for from the fact that population became so reduced in the island at one time, that master and slave relied upon each other for company and sup- port, and the chains were in this way gradually lightened. The actual slave laws of the Spaniards were in fact rather mild in their character, and even more lenient in some respects than those of the celebrated Code Noir. All their laws had for their object the facilitating the freedom of the slave who could ransom himself bj' reim- bursing his master for his original outlay ; for not only was the master compelled to receive instalments on account of the desired freedom of the slave, but the law fixed a maximum price at which that liberty should be purchased, and which price being offered, the master was compelled to accept. Other articles there were, which, if strictly en- forced, would serve to lighten the bonds of the slave very much. This facility of freedom had rendered it easy for the blacks of Spanish St Domingo to secure their liberty, of which they freely availed themselves, to such an extent, that at one time, of a population amounting to 125,000 in that part of the island, 110,000 were freemen. It must however be remembered, that large numbers of slaves escaped from the French and became free Spanish subjects. It is also a notorious fact that the Spaniards never seem to have had the same stringent laws against their intermarrying with the negroes that the French had. In fact, I find some old authors alluding to this by sarcas- tically saying, " That the Spaniards appeared to be much more fond of their dusky female slaves, or Indian neigh- bours, than they were of their lighter-coloured spouses ; and though many had left legitimate wives in Spain, they appeared not at all reluctant to take temporary ones from such dusky maidens as were nothing loth." 104 SANTO DOMINGO. The effects of this loose system was soon seen in the mixed character of population, which, gradually extend- ing itself as time wore on, has left its imprint on the present population of the island, where it is sometimes hard to tell where the white begins or the black leaves off. Nearly the same terms came to be applied to this popula- tion as in the French part, though, from their Spanish names, they appear to be different. The pure Spaniards coming to the colonies to seek their fortunes were known as " chapetones," just as they are called to-day in Cuba " Peninsulars." The mulattoes were at first known more particularly as the descendants of Europeans and negroes, just as " mestizoes " meant European and Indian ; but these distinctions are hardly to-day noted. If about the only data available is accepted of the increase of this population — that given in the census of the parish priests, taken in 1785 — the augmentation in five years is truly remarkable ; for by it we learn this amounted in that time to 35,350 souls, 19,350 being free, and 16,000 slaves, making an aggregate population of 152,640; a very rapid increase indeed, if we refer back to the year 1730, when the whole population amounted to but 6000 souls. It perhaps only shows, however, of what this island is capable under proper government, and protection to set- tlers, with the right kind of inducements to emigrants. It is a curious fact to be noted in the history of Spanish St Domingo, that no sooner does its condition promise a speedy advance in wealth, population, and civilisation, than some unforeseen event takes place that throws the island as much further backward as it has advanced ; and this proves now to be the case ; for the great change that took place in the French part soon drew the Spanish part into that vortex of insurrection, massacre, bloodshed, and horrible civil war, and this too without there being perhaps the slightest similarity in the condition of the FEE NO H PROSPERITY. 105 affairs of the two parts ; for the one was just making a feeble effort to progress from its years of lethargic misery, while the other, perhaps spoiled and demoralised by its rapid increase in wealth and importance, was bringing upon itself, by its pride, luxury, and cruelties, a day of reckoning that will never be forgotten as long as history shall be read. Some idea of the great state of prosperity at which the French had arrived may be gained from a condensed statement of the condition of the different interests in successful operation in the year 1754, and these were estimated to be, in the commodities of the island, of the value of $6,250,000 (£1,250,000), and the imports to £1,777,500 ($8,887,500). There were 14,000 white in- habitants only, 4000 free mulattoes, and 172,000 negroes. The sugar plantations numbered 599, while the indigo places amounted to 3379. The cocoa-trees, after being once entirely destroyed, had reached the immense number of 98,946. The cotton, which in the Island of St Domingo assumes more the form of a tree, numbered 6,300,637 plants ; while of the banana, cassava, potato, and yam, under cultivation for supplying the means of subsistence, the amount grown was enormous. Although the French never professed to pay much attention to cattle or stock raising, yet even those had grown to what seems an immense number, for we learn there were on the French part 63,000 horses and mules, and 93,000 head of horned cattle. From this period up to the time of the Revolution in France, these figures were steadily increased ; so that com- puting the limited number comparatively of the white in- habitants, some idea may be obtained of the unequal manner in which the wealth and the riches of the island were apportioned. This was about the condition of affairs when, in 1776, the boundary was finally fixed between the two parts of the island. It may be well now to give a 106 SANTO DOMINGO. glance at the character of the population that formed this wonderful French settlement of the Xew World. In the early history of the French colonisation, the prejudice of caste was unknown on the Island of St Domingo ; for the buccaneer or freebooter made very little distinction between the negro and the European engage, so long as the latter was in bonds ; but gradually the engages worked out their time, which was usually three years, and became, by economy and labour, equal to other whites ; and as the engages eventually were prohibited being brought out from Europe on account of the intro- duction of slaves, they ceased to exist as a class. The blacks, born under a hot sun, supported better the labour of the tropical fields than the whites, and finally, the former were the only class of servants remaining attached to the plantations, the whites confining them- selves to the towns, and pursuing trade or commerce. The whites were composed of those originally settled on the island, having been born in Europe ; and to their offspring was given the name " creole," meaning the children of Euro- pean parents born on the island, a name that has come into general use, as signifying the native white inhabitants of any particular place, though applied for many years to the West Indies exclusively. Also in the towns were a large number of European French, who came out to enter into business as merchants, shopkeepers, and tradesmen, aU alike, how- ever, in their desire to accumulate fortunes rapidly, with which to return to Europe. The Creole soon became an important element in the population, and the effects of climate in those regions are such, that they became as they are to-day — a special type, being usually well made, of good height and regular figure, but not having that rich complexion peculiar to the Saxon race. The temperature of their climate is such, that they acquire a wonderful agility and easy suppleness of frame. St Mery describes the early French Creoles as a pas- CREOLE WOMEN. 107 sionate, high-spirited race, with a natural impatience that would not permit of their making even their journeys in an ordinary manner ; and as the roads had heen put in good order, they either rode or were whirled along at the rate of four leagues an hour. The Creole women were endowed with lovely figures, beautiful eyes, types yet visible to-day ; he relates, however, that these angels, with demoniacal fury, stood by and saw their female attendants punished in such a manner as would move, one would think, a heart of stone to pity. There can be now no dispute as to the actual demoralisa- tion of a large part of the people of French St Domingo ; for the facts are on record by numerous impartial authorities, principally spectators or actors in the state of affairs they describe. In 1760, some idea of the state of things existing may be learned from the report of a commissioner sent out from France by the Grovernment to learn the cause of so many deaths by poison, which had become so frequent as to assume the form of an epidemic, — an extract from which shows in forcible terms some of the habits of the planters : — " It arises from the too intimate intercourse of the whites and the blacks ; the criminal intercourse that the most of the masters have with their women slaves, is the origin of this attack. A legitimate wife, seeing the intercourse of her husband with her servant, in the absence of the hus- band has her punished severely. If the master is not married, and that is mostly the case (marriage not being popular, and libertinage more tolerated), the inconstancy natural to the men of this climate makes them change or multiply their concubines, from whence arise innumerable jealousies and distinctions ; and in the first, as in the second case, are the causes of the taking vengeance now upon the fortunes of the master, in poisoning his negroes, or taking his life, or that of his wife, or even their children." Up to 1763, it had been permitted that masters might eg- 108 SANTO DOMINGO. bring into France with them their black servants ; and many of the planters, being enormously rich, had large retinues of servants with them in Paris, where they lived in the most sumptuous manner, making great display of their wealth, insomuch that the expression at Paris became common, "rich as a Creole." Many of those who lived on their estates on the island lived the life of perfect sybarites, indulging in every luxury. The plains of the north and of the Cul-de-sac were crossed in every direction with spacious roads. The plains and the hills were covered with rich habitations, and with a white population numerous and happy. Fields of cane stretched out in every direction, with their boundaries marked by green and well-trimmed hedges. Many of the houses of the country were sm-rounded by terraces, upon which thou- sands of flowers of every tint and colour heightened the view. In the coffee-places long avenues of graceful palms gave shady approach to, entrances of solid stone and iron, while fountains and stone swimming-baths served to cool the air, as well as afford pastime to the planters and their families, many of whom spent half the year in Paris, the other, or winter half, being passed in what it is said were the most beautiful homes in the world. The planters were only able to increase their labour by importations of negroes from Africa, and therefore were habituated to look upon the blacks and mulattoes as so much human cattle, treating them in many cases with disdain and brutality, while the latter, awed by the superior education and position of the whites, looked upon them with fear. But from the nature of things, in due tim.e there were other relations sprang up between the whites and blacks than those of master and slave. As early as 1685, when Louis XIV. published the Code Noir, it was seen that great irregularities had sprang up between white masters, who had the power of life and death, and their female slaves, and in order if possible to .^ ENTKAhXn; TO COFFEIi ESTATIi. MULATTOES. 109 prevent these, many articles, now curious in their character, were inserted ; such, for instance, as the fining of a white two thousand pounds of sugar who should have children by his slaves. If a white debauched a slave, the woman and her children were to be sold for the benefit of the hospital, without ever having the power to be repurchased. Notwithstanding these apparently stringent laws, this intercourse became so great, that it was not many years before another race of beings had sprung up. All through the colony, the connection between the white and black resulted in the race of the mulattoes, and eventually from the intercourse of these again with the whites or among themselves, innumerable shades of colour sprang up, giving rise to the distinctions, as we know them, of octoroons, quadroons, &c., and of which St Mery in his work gives a list that is tedious in its numerous details of the ramifications resulting from this intercourse. To all these people, regular or irregular in birth, light or dark in colour, were given the various names of " people of colour," " sang melee," or " mulattoes." From this class also sprang another, one which, from the force of circumstances, eventually became of the great- est importance in bringing about the freedom of the negroes of St Domingo. This class was known as the " affranchis," or freedmen, being, in fact, the entire people of colour who were their own masters, and not slaves ; — a class that had, in a long number of years, been produced by slaves buying their liberty, by planters freeing their illegitiihate children, and by irregular marriages of black and white, which, though forbidden by law, were yet sometimes contracted. The men of colour, though free as far as their personal service to individuals was concerned, were yet considered as the property of the public ; and, as public property, they were subject to the caprice and tyranny of all those whom the accident of birth had placed above them. 110 SANTO DOMINGO. By the Colonial Government they were treated, how- ever, as slaves, being compelled, on reaching the age of manhood, to serve for three years in a military establish- ment, called the Mare Chaussee. This consisted of a certain number of companies of infantry, which were chiefly employed as rangers in clearing the woods of "marons," as runaway slaves were called; and though this organisation was eventually broken up, from the fear that arose that it afforded the people of colour a means of knowing their own strength, and of holding general communication with each other throughout the island, it was long enough in existence to have that very efiect. Upon the expiration of their terms of service in the Mare Chaussee, the mulattoes were also subject to the work of the corvees, a species of labour allotted for the repair of the highways, the hardships of which nearly all authorities agree in describing as terrible. Although they rendered all their military service in the militia of their particular province without pay or allow- ance, being in fact compelled to provide their own arms and accoutrements, they were nevertheless entirely deprived of any power to hold public office or employment, and were entirely debarred from all manner of liberal professions, and even the taint of blood spread to the latest posterity, so that no white man of any character ever thought of marriage with them. In the courts of justice, also, there was one justice for the white man and another for the coloured. There were, however, many exceptions; for many of the people of colour had acquired lands and become rich ; and these, by secretly buying the metropolitan agents, enjoyed peace and tranquillity, and received favours. Of the horrible cruelties practised upon the lowest class of the inhabitants — the negroes held in slavery — by their white masters, I shall in these pages give no details. They would fill volumes, and are to be found in the pages of CREOLE LANGUAGE. Ill every respectable authority of the time, as well French as Creole. Unfortunately, they are too familiar already to the public. The blacks proper, or negro slaves, were composed of slaves brought from all parts of Africa, many of them previously having belonged to the fiercest tribes, taken prisoners in battle — many of them even were cannibals — turned loose upon the island among others, to affect them by their presence or example, retaining, as they did, even in a state of servitude, many of their customs of religion, polygamy, and cannibalism ; and I need only mention here the religious worship of Vaudoux, which has been known to exist within a few years, and doubtless does secretly to-day, among some of the Haytians. The Creole language served then, as it does to-day, the colloquial purposes of the whole of the French portion of the island. It is a corrupt French, in which they have mixed some Spanish words Gallicised, and in which sea terms even have found a place. At best it is but a jargon ; inflection has a great deal to do with it. It can only be acquired thoroughly when young ; no European, it is said, ever fully acquiring it, no matter what the term of his residence may be in the isles. Many of the servants of the planters had been at Paris a long time, where they had gained new ideas, and where, as there were many freemen of colour, they had profited by their example and instructions ; and returning to Hayti, they had carried with them new ideas about their own condition, which made themselves felt in the many plots and insurrections that were constantly being organised among the slaves. But public aifairs might have remained in a state of tranquillity as regards the blacks, or their con- dition being somewhat improved, they might have become more contented with their lot, had it not been that the condition of afiairs and the state of feeling existing among the whites towards each other and the home Government 112 SANTO DOMINGO. also opened a field, and afforded an opportunity, which the mulattoes at first, and afterwards the blacks, seized upon to better their own condition. Troubles had sprung up between the militia and the regular troops, some of which ended in fatal duels on the part of the officers, and the militia had been forced into special service. Negroes were taken from the plantations, and forced to drill, much to the discontent of their masters the planters, many of whom had besides to pay a certain sum to keep up companies in their localities; and these things caused a feeling of restlessness on the part of many of the prominent inhabitants, and a desire to be indepen- dent of a metropolis that asked everything, and gave nothing in return. The Prince de Rohan came out in 1766 as Governor, with instructions to do all in his power to satisfy the colonists, and regulate affairs in a colony that had been re- ported at Paris to be in a state of almost open revolt, while its depravity was notorious, according to an account that describes it as " depraved as a country can be, having attained the apogee of demoralisation." Frightful pictures were drawn of the " orgies that these voluptuous colonists had given themselves up to in midnight balls, in the midst of which, the lights extinguished, each man used the woman he had seized at random." The Superior Council appealed to the King to redress some of the complaints made by the colonists, but De Rohan treated these as seditious. Then commences a period of internal struggle and bickering between the people, the authorities of the island, and the representative of the King. The prayers of the colonists were unanswered, and their wishes not consulted ; bitterness of feeling resulted, ending in the taking of sides, which finally resulted, from various causes, in the rising of the negroes. But this is deserving of a special chapter. CHAPTER VII. "Thy chains are broken, Africa, be free ! Oh ! ye winds and waves, Waft the glad tidings to the land of slaves.' The Revolutions of French St Domingo — Mode of Govern- ment of the French — Discontent of the Planters — Thdr Desire for Independence — Aspirations of the Mulatloes — Og^s Attempt at Insurrection — The Revolution in France — Its Effects on St Domingo — Contentions among the Whites — Insurrection of the Slaves — Participation of the English in the Affairs of the Island — Their Defeat, and Success of the Blacks — Cession of the Island to the French. rpHE general and popular idea of the revolution of St -'- Domi'ngo has usually been, that owing to the cruel man- ner in which the slaves were there treated by their French masters, they rose up and massacred all the whites who did not succeed in escaping from the island ; but we shall see that this was only partially the case, and the result of other causes. The revolution of St Domingo is divided into three distinct epochs ; — the first comprises the revolution of the whites ; the second, that of the mulattoes ; and the third, the revolution of the negroes. Three times was raised the cry of freedom, each time by different races, followed by frightful mixtures of massacres and conflagrations and of atrocious cruelties; the rich were driven away, and with them riches ; the whites were exterminated, but with them also European H lU SANTO DOMINGO. civilisation. St Domingo conquered her liberty ; but it is seated upon ruins, without other companions than dis- order and idleness. The Government of the French part of St Domingo, up to the year 1789, was exercised by a Governor- General and an officer called Intendant, both of whom were nomi- nated by the Crown, on the recommendation of the Minister of Marine, generally for the period of three years. Their powers, in some cases, were administered jointly ; in others, they possessed separate and distinct authority, which each of them exercised without the concurrence or participation of the other ; and these powers were almost unlimited, against the abuse of which the people had no sure protection. The Governor, in fact, was an absolute prince, whose will was, generally speaking, the law, the courts of justice even being dependent upon his final decision in many cases. The Intendant' s proper duties were to regulate the public revenues, or administer the finances of the colony. The collectors and receivers of all duties and taxes were subject to his control ; he passed or rejected their accounts, and made them such allowances as he alone thought proper ; and with him rested entirely the application of all the public moneys. The taxes and duties were laid on and modified, as occasion required, by a court composed of the Governor-General, the Intendant, the Presidents of the Provincial Councils, the Attorney-General, the Commissioner of the Navy, and the several Commandants of the Militia. This court was dignified by the title of the Colonial Assembly; and though the colonists had not a single delegate in it, the reader will see that, in the revolutionary state of affairs in which the colony was shortly to be placed, this Assembly played a very important part. The colony, for convenience in governing, was divided into three provinces, the northern, the western, and the DISCONTENT OF THE PLANTERS. 115 southern. In each of these resided a Deputy G-overuor, and in each were established subordinate courts of civil and criminal justice, from whose decisions appeals were allowed to the two superior councils, of which one was at Cape Francois, for the northern province, the other at Port-au-Prince, for the western and southern provinces. At the breaking out of the Revolution in France, there were at St Domingo several elements of trouble. The colonists, haughty in their pride and riches, absolute lords of vast domains, and arbiters of human lives in the persons of their thousands of slaves, borne down by a hard yoke, were restive under the government of a metropolis so far away, which, as they thought, interfered with the proper development of their interests, commercial as well as agri- cultural, and controlled by a Governor not chosen from among themselves, but sent from Paris, while they were debarred from sharing in the offices that their own success had created. The freedom in the United States, too, at this time was a signal of regeneration, and gave rise to new ideas of liberty and government ; and, as a result, the colonists wanted to constitute a national sovereignty for them- selves, and to demand, in return for the riches they sent to the metropolis, an independence they believed they merited. These ideas fermented strongly in the colony, and made rapid progress everywhere, when there appeared the first acts of the National Assembly in France. Every one of all classes and of all colours received with enthusiasm the news of the Revolution ; the planters saw therein the sister of the American Revolution, which should bring them also freedom and liberty of commerce. They hoped to govern themselves, and prescribe their own laws and customs ; while the numbers of small traders saw a chance for themselves in the numerous small offices that would be created, and by which, without 116 SANTO BOMINGO. ever giving a thought to the rights of the mulattoes, they alone expected to benefit. But the mulattoes thought differently, and they judged that, if the former classes were to have their share in these new rights, they (the mulattoes) also, according to the newly promulgated doctrines of the rights of man, should have a share in the benefits which would accrue. Thus these very divisions of classes gave ground for divisions of interests and ideas, which were looked upon, especially those of the mulattoes, as monstrous. Strange to say, the mulattoes, with the negro slaves below them, paid at first no regard to the interests of the latter, having no idea that they should share in this new millennium of liberty ; and it was only after being van- quished by the negroes, that the mulattoes consented to receive them as equals. Many of the mulattoes from St Domingo and other French islands were at this time resident at Paris, where they had gone with their wealth to enjoy the freedom which was debarred them in their native land, as also to bring up and educate their children. Through these a strong prejudice was created against the West India planters on account of the barbarous treatment of their slaves, and this created a sympathy for the black race that took form in the society known as the Amis des Noirs (Friends of the Blacks), and it is probably with them that efi"orts first began to be made to abolish African slavery. In that same city, and yet from the same isle, there was another class, very different in position, ideas, and feelings. This was composed of the rich planters, who, accustomed to spend most of their time, as well as most of their means, at Paris, had formed a club known as the " Massiac," ■ being the name of the owner of the house they frequented. They combated in toto the ideas of the Amis des Noirs, and demanded an independent government for the Island of St Dominffo. THE ASSEMBLIES. 117 When, in 1789, the National Assembly met, a deputa- tion of mulattoes presented a petition, asking for their civil and political rights ; to which the President of the Assembly responded by saying, that '' not a single part of the nation should ask in vain its rights from the Assembly of the representatives of the French people." Meanwhile, at St Domingo, the Creoles awaited not even the sanction of the home Government to their independence; for already they had formed primary Assemblies, and afterwards provincial Assemblies, repre- senting the three great divisions of the island, with sittings at the various chief towns of the provinces. Cape Francois, Port-au-Prince, and Aux Cayes. These Assemblies however, did not, permit the presence of a single coloured man ; on the contrary, a petition having been presented by a mulatto named Lacombe to the Assem- bly of the north, asking that the rights of the mulattoes should be recognised, the Assembly considered it as incen- diary, and hung the author. The three Assemblies (north, south, and west) not being able to agree with each other in the general admin- istration of the colony, resolved to confide these interests to an Assembly, called colonial; and this Assembly, in order to be perfectly free in its deliberations, held its sittings at the town of St Mark, 25th March 1790, taking afterwards the name of the General Assembly of French St Domingo. This Assembly decided that if, before three months elapsed, the French Government did not send it instruc- tions, it would assume the government of the colony. A decree, however, came in that time, acceding to the wishes of the colony in making it part of the general government ; providing, however, that certain laws incom- patible with the interests of the colonists should not be understood as applying to the colony, in these memor- able words i " It (the Government) has never meant to 118 SANTO DOMINGO. comprise the colonies in tlie constitution (in which all men were declared equal) decreed for the kingdom." This was a deathblow to the hopes the mulattoes had of securing their share in the " rights of man ; " and they asked in vain at the hands of the Assemblies a recognition of their claim. Yet again they did not despair, but appealed to that clause in the decree which says, "that should be considered as active citizens all men, adults, proprietors of real property, or, in default of such property, domiciled in the parish sin-ce two years, and paying contributions." The whites refused to interpret this as making mulattoes active citizens, and refused to receive them as such, placing themselves, on this ground, in open rebellion against the Government of France. The mulattoes, on the contrary, hoping in time to secure their rights legally, supported the Governor and the agents of the King. In May 1790, the General Assembly of St Mark published the basis of the colonial constitution, in which it stated very plainly its ideas of independence, and assuming to itself the extreme powers of the government; so that from thence there were two powers, — the legitimate one of the King, and the assumed one of the Colonial Assembly. The national guard took sides ; those who wished the independence of the colony called themselves patriots, and mounted a red cockade ; those who wished to maintain the submission to the general Government and the metropolis were called " aristocrats," a term of opprobrium, and these sported the white cockade. The planters took sides accord- ing as their interests dictated ; while the small inhabitants, knowing well the pride of the rich planters, who composed the patriotic party, sided against them, and with the Government party ; while the Provincial Assembly of the north, whose representatives were all more or less legal people, and who had been offended by a decree of the General FIRST CONFLICT. 119 Assembly proscribing the laws of usury and legal charges, sided with the Grovernment party. The General Assembly then declared as traitors to the country the members of the Provincial Assembly of the north, and proclaimed the freedom of trade ; licensed two regiments of militia, and ordered their reorganisation. A single detachment of the regiment of Port-au-Prince, induced by extra pay offered by the Assembly, answered its call, and was incorporated in the national guard ; and the Assembly, carried away by its desires, called to its bar of trial the colonial chief. Peynier, the Grovernor, then deemed it time to interfere, and dissolve an Assembly that was creating civil war in the island. He called upon the captain of the French man- of-war lying in the harbour to give him aid ; but the crew hearing orders given to fire upon the "patriots," refused obedience, and sided with the Assembly. The Governor, not discouraged, after issuing a pro- clamation declaring the Assembly dissolved, and its members traitors and rebels, ordered Colonel Mauduit to go with some soldiers and disperse the Provincial Assembly of the west, which had made common cause with the Assembly of Saint Mark. They, however, calling to their aid 400 red pompons of the national guard, Mauduit was on his arrival received by a discharge which killed fifteen men ; this so exasperated the soldiers that they threw themselves into the room, and dispersed the national guard, whose colours they captured; while the Assembly took to flight, the building being pillaged. The General Assembly now announced its determina- tion to resist, and the Governor ordered Mauduit against it ; while from the province of the north came a body of men commanded by the Baron de Vincent. Menaced by these forces, the Assembly saw appear at St Mark the same man-of-war {The Leopard) whose crew offered to stand by them; but the members of the 120 SANTO DOMINGO. Assembly taking a sudden resolution, determined to go to France on board this ship, and appeal to the Assembly there to recognise their illegal acts. So far from acceding to this, on their arrival the National Assembly of France declared them all traitors, and placed them in arrest. This news made a great disturbance in St Domingo, and the Governor having called together the primary Assemblies to elect new deputies, the absent members were re-elected. In the midst of this excitement came the news of the uprising of the mulattoes, inagurated by Oge. James Oge, a young mulatto, son of a coffee-planter, had been sent to Paris to be educated, where, at the age of about thirty years, he had secured the friendship of the Amis des Noirs, who, it is said, procured for him a commission in the army of one of the German Electors. Finding that the claims of his people were not to be allowed by the Assembly at Paris, he made his preparations, and by a circuitous route reached St Domingo, where he immediately addressed the Governor, Peynier, a note demanding a recognition for the mulattoes of their rights as citizens ; at the same time pre- paring, with the assistance of his two brothers, a force among the disaffected to back up his demands. With him was associated Chavannes ; but though en- camped at Grand Riviere, near Cape Francois, they were not able to gather together more than two hundred men, and this force was soon defeated ; Og^ himself being com- pelled to flee to the Spanish part, where he took refuge in St Domingo city. Peynier being succeeded by Blanchelande, the new commander made a peremptory demand upon the Spanish Governor for Oge, who was most infamously given up to the French, in spite of the noble protest of Doctor Faura, the Spanish Auditor of War. The rendition, however, took place on condition that the French should spare 0<'-e's life. DEMORALISATION OF TROOPS. 121 How well this condition was kept we can understand when we learn that, in the presence of the whole body of the Provincial Assembly, the unfortunate man was broken on the wheel. Hardly had the whites quelled the insurrection of the mulattoes, than they re-opened among themselves the re- bellion. Two frigates had been sent to St Domingo carrying troops to support the new Grovernor ; but it appears they had been tampered with, even before sailing from Brest, by the friends of the Council of St Mark ; and on their arrival, although they had been directed to land at St Nicholas' mole, they disobeyed these orders by land- ing at Port-au-Prince. Their bad example led away the hitherto loyal regiment of Mauduit,- and the patriots, mingling with the soldiers, seduced them so effectually, that they gave their assistance to the rebels, and against the authorities they had come to support. The small whites were also demoralised by the pro- mises and corruptions of the patriot party ; and the red cockades marched down to Colonel Mauduit, to ask for the restoration of the colours taken from them by him, the men of his own regiment even appearing against him. Mauduit seeing it would be useless to stem this torrent, came forward to present them the colours, when a voice from the crowd demanded that he should kneel down and beg pardon ; but, brave man as he was, he preferred death to dishonour, and baring his breast to the crowd, he fell sabred by a soldier of his own regiment, while the infuriated people fell upon his body, and mutilated and dishonoured it in every way, dragging it through the filth of the streets, foremost among these demons being a woman. Such were some of the scenes enacted by white men, as an example to the blacks, who were shortly to out-do 122 SANTO DOMINGO. their teachers in deeds of cruelty and bloodshed ; for follow- ing rapidly upon this event, the signal of the downfall of the power of the legitimate Governor, came that fearful episode in the annals of St Domingo which made the blood of the civilised world run cold with the horrors there perpetrated. From France in 1791 came the decree that "the colonial Assemblies actually existing should remain, but that the people of colour born of free parents shall be admitted to the primary and colonial Assemblies of the future, if they have the requisite qualifications." This was a firebrand thrown into the homes of St Domingo. The mulattoes, on receipt of this news, went crazy with delight, while the whites were enraged with vexation and disappointment. Open revolt was declared by the latter against the Government, and solemn oaths were taken by members of the Assembly, pledging their lives, their fortunes, and their honour to sustain the cause. A scene of days of chaos and confusion followed, in the midst of which Jean Francois, a mulatto, with a negro slave, Boukmann, on the plantation Turpin, gathered a force of negro slaves, and marched upon the town of Cape Francois, carrying as their banner of liberty the body of a white infant on a spear-head, and murdering and devastating in their whole march until they reached the environs of the town. Amidst the confusion that arose in the town on receipt of this news, the mulattoes demanded arms from the whites to assist in repelling the negroes. So far from their request being granted, the whites fell upon them, and massacred them, accusing them of having instigated the rebellion. The negroes were soon defeated by the assembled forces of the whites, who pursued their advantage by killing and murdering the negroes in every direction ; and a saturnalia of blood was inaugurated which makes the heart sick at the HORRIBLE ATROCITIES. 123 accounts of the cruelties practised by those polished whites from that most finished city, " The Paris of the West Indies." But these deeds brought their own punishment ; for the whole black population, finding they had no mercy to expect at the hands of the whites, rose in revolt under the leader- ship of Jean Francois, and Biassou, his lieutenant. Everywhere the fires of the incendiaries were lighted, and the once noble habitations were burned to the ground, while the hitherto smiling plains of successful agriculture be- came vast wastes of desolation. To add to the strength of this uprising, the minority party of the whites is said to have encouraged the blacks ; and the latter assumed, in their first attempts, to be fight- ing the cause of the King, whom they maintained the whites had in custody at Paris. The negroes marched to Port Margot, bearing a banner on one side of which was inscribed, " Vive le Roi," and on the other, " Ancien Regime;" and while calling them- selves " King's people," their leader marched at their head wearing the decoration of the order of St Louis. A letter found at one of the plantations after a fight implicated also the Spaniards in this movement of the Royalist party, and subsequent events seem to confirm it. The crimes committed by one of these negro chiefs ( Jeannot) almost pass the bounds of credence, and yet they are verified by many authorities. Young girls ravished in presence of their parents, white men sawed to pieces be- tween planks, others maimed, or their joints dislocated, while the fiend stood by and drank human blood mingled with tafia. His crimes became, however, even too great for the negroes, and he was taken and put to death by Jean Francois. Meanwhile the patriotic party, so far from being dis- mayed by the storm they had raised, refused assistance from France, and applied to the English at Jamaica for 124 SANTO DOMINGO. help ; and before sufficient time had elapsed for them to hear from there, the patriot troops mounted the English round hat, with a black cockade for the national colour. Lord Effingham, the Governor of Jamaica, did not deem it wise at once to accede to the demands of the patriots, but sent supplies of arms and ammunition, and also stationed a man-of-war on the coast. Meanwhile the negroes were carrying on their attacks and devastations, until the whites were forced to take refuge in the towns, until, at the battle of Limbe, the negroes were defeated. Yet again the mulattoes, who in all these troubles ap- pear to have been more inclined to the whites than to the negroes, asked for a recognition of their rights, which were refused them. Claiming then that they had law upon their side, they assembled together and elected their chiefs, among whom were some men of great intelligence, afterwards distin- guished in the history of the island (Rigaud, Petion, &c.). They fixed the seat of their operations at the little village of Croix des Bouquets, only a few miles from Port-au- Prince. A first attack upon the mulattoes by troops from Port- au-Prince was unsuccessful ; and the old planters havino- allied themselves with the mulattoes, as the "Ancien Regime," their power became established in the island, as the nucleus around which gathered increasing power, inso- much that the assembly of Port-au-Prince finally agreed that in future the garrison of that place should consist of equal numbers of whites and coloured men, agreeing at the same time that the Colonial Assembly should be re-composed in accordance with the decree of the 15th May. When, however, the Colonial Assembly re-united at the Cape, it would not approve of this action, and broke the agreement, again placing itself in communication with the English, without result; and shortly after news arrived SUCCESS OF THE BLACKS 125 from France of the approval by the home Government of its opposition, and civil war was again inaugurated, in which the two parties were arrayed against each other — the mulattoes and negroes each day learning their power better, and the whites of either party committing such atrocious deeds as subsequently were unequalled by the blacks themselves. The blacks and mulattoes having coalesced, a battle was fought between them and the whites at Croix des Bouquets, March 28, 1792, in which the whites were entirely de- feated, and driven back into the city of Port-au-Prince. It is related by several authorities, that notwithstanding the success of the blacks in this engagement, the negroes, under the command of their black chief Hyacinth, be- haved themselves with the utmost propriety. Not a house was burned nor a white man molested subsequent to the battle ; on the contrary, the chiefs ordered the negroes to return to work. In other parts of the island the black and white royalists met with success everywhere, until the agents of the French Government, seeing how hopeless was the state of affairs, returned to France to report the condition of matters in the island. By the edict of April 4, 1792, the National Assembly of France again declared the right of the free coloured man to a share of the government; and electing three new commissioners, ordered a new election of the colonial Assemblies. With these three new commissioners came 6000 troops. Slavery was to be legalised, while giving rights to free coloured men. Upon this the mulattoes separated them- selves from the negroes in revolt, and joined the troops of the party of the commissioners. These had, on their arrival, declared they recognised but two classes in the island — the freemen, without distinction of colour, and the slaves. Meanwhile the assembly of Port-au-Prince continued 126 SAFTO DOMINGO. their resistance, while that of the Cape dissolved. The former place was blockaded by land and sea, — Rigaud, a mulatto general, having command of the troops on land. The Assembly made a stout resistance ; but on the arrival of the French commissioners with troops, the city was, after an attack, surrendered, some of the principal rebels, however, making their escape to Jamaica. Meanwhile the blacks, ignored by the whites and the mulattoes, were in arms ; and various forces, under the com- mand of Eigaud and other mulatto generals, were sent against them ; and after various combats, the negroes were subdued, and an amnesty being offered, 14,000 negroes availed themselves of it, and the island was thus almost restored to a state of tranquillity under the commissioners, except in the province of Grand Anse, when war was declared between France and England, May 1793. Galbaud, a planter of St Domingo, or at all events the owner of a coffee estate, had been appointed Governor of the island by the authorities in France ; and his predilec- tions being strongly on the side of the colonists, he rather over-slaughed the commissioners and their acts. They, on their part, sheltering themselves behind the law that no planter could be appointed to authority in the island, and that at the time he (Galbaud) was given in France his appointment it was not known that he was a planter, refused to recognise his authority. Nevertheless, they were willing that he should return to France and make known this fact, and be reinvested with his powers as Governor. Galbaud's brother would not submit to these proceedings, and accordingly collected from among the inhabitants, the Cape militia, and the seamen in the harbour, a strong party to support the Governor's authority. This dispute led to some terrible scenes and affrays ; for in a few days the two brothers, at the head of a large number of followers, marched against the Government House in Cape DREADFUL BUTGEER7. 127 Francois, and were proceeding successfully, when a body of seamen, getting possession of a wine-cellar, became intoxi- cated and ungovernable and their column was obliged to seek shelter in the royal arsenal. Next day much parleying ensued ; but Polverel, the com- missioner, rejected the overtures of the Governor ; then fol- lowed scenes of horror indescribable ; for the commissioner, having made overtures to the blacks under Biassou and Francois, which were rejected, they were finally accepted by a negro chief named Macaya, who, with 3000 revolted slaves, entered the town, and murdered indiscriminately men, women, and children. A few white inhabitants attempted to seek shelter on board the ships ; but were intercepted by the mulattoes, and a dreadful butchery ensued, which horrified even the commissioners themselves, who were un- able to appease the angry passions they had roused, being forced themselves to seek shelter in a neighbouring fort, while Galbaud, with the frightened citizens, seeking refuge in the ships in the harbour, set sail for the United States. When the revolt among the negroes had begun in the northern province, many emigrations of the whites had taken place to the adjoining islands and to America. Some of the principal planters had even gone to England, and invoked the aid of the British Government, which had been refused until the war was declared between France and England, when, in 1793 the Governor of Jamaica received instructions to receive the submission of those inhabitants of St Domingo who solicited the British protection, and for this purpose he was directed to send a force to hold such places in St Domingo as should be surrendered to him. The French commissioners, Santhonax and Polverel, al- though they had succeeded, in addition to the force of 6000 regulars brought with them from France, in raising a large body of men from the national guard, the militia, and even the free blacks and runaway slaves, yet had these troops scattered over a large extent of territory. 128 SANTO DOMINGO. On the first information, therefore, of the attack of the English, they desired to strengthen their condition in every way, and for this purpose issued a proclamation abolishing slavery, offering clothes and arms to all slaves who would enrol themselves under their banner. Many of the negroes availed themselves of this oppor- tunity to secure arms and accoutrements, with which they immediately deserted to the mountain fastnesses, where, with a large number of others, tbey formed themselves into a sort of mountain republic. Among the principal leaders of the blacks in the early period of the uprising was Jean Francois, who bore the title of general, and to whom was afterwards joined others of note, as Biassou and Rigaud ; but the two former were more closely allied, ravaging together with their followers the same districts on the Spanish frontiers. As the above declaration of emancipation in the French part jeopardised in a great measure the interests of the inhabitants of the Spanish part, among whom there were a large number of slaves, the frontier towns, with the consent of the local authorities, and in connection with many of the royalist French emigrants, secretly assisted Biassou and Jean Francois with arms and money, in order that these chiefs might increase an insurrection among the people of colour, under the plea that the Liberals were in arms against the King because he had declared the liberty of the slaves. Notwithstanding this plea, the Spaniards profited by their assistance to the negro chiefs in receiving from them the negro prisoners they took, as well as the slaves they ran off from the plantations, giving in exchange for them cattle and gold ; these poor creatures were then shipped, at great profit by the Spaniards, to Porto Rico and Cuba. The death of Louis the Sixteenth of France made a great change in the state of affairs on the frontier of St Domingo ; for Biassou and Francois, onreceiving news of this event, renounced the revolutionary Grovernment entirely, and ENGLISH SUCCESSES. 129 with their companions abandoned the French territory, and seeking shelter among the Spaniards, took the oath of alle- giance and service with Charles the Fourth of Spain, and for their services they received commissions of high rank, Francois being made general, Biassou field-marshal, and Toussaint colonel in the Spanish army. In the contests that followed, Spain not recognising the republic of France, much damage was done by both parties on the frontiers, several Spanish towns being destroyed, and the inhabitants of those districts losing all the advan- tages they had gained in years of peace. England and Spain having united to divide the island between them, the Spanish troops pushed their black allies under Biassou and Francois with such vigour, that the French rapidly lost pos- session of a great part of the south, and the whole north of the island. The English, meanwhile, had landed, though not in very great force, at Jeremie, on the 19th September, being commanded by Colonel Whitelock ; and assisted by several frigates, the town of St Nicholas soon fell into their hands. An attempt on Tiburon was not so successful, failing utterly. St Mark, Arcahaye, Leogane, and other towns, however, soon fell into their hands; and encouraged by these successes, a second and successful attack was made upon Cape Tiburon, by which means nearly the whole of the western coast was subject to their control, except Port-au-Prince. Port de Paix, an important town on the north-west coast, was much desired by the English ; but it was stoutly defended by a veteran general of the French service, Levaux; and finding it impossible to take it at once by force, they resorted to corruption, hoping to bribe the old chief to surrender ; but he not only declined these overtures, but sent a challenge to the English commander for the insult offered him in making such a proposition. The English and Spaniards had agreed to divide the I 130 SANTO DOMINGO. island between them, in consideration of which, the latter were now giving the English their assistance in the attack on Port de Paix, but without success. In this alliance between the English and Spaniards, the famous Toussaint, Avho, for his valuable services, had been rewarded as stated above by the Spanish Government, was faithfully doing them service. Levaux and Rigaud, meanwhile, had been making war against the English with varied success, assisted in great degree by the delay in the arrival of ex- pected reinforcements ; but these having arrived, the city of Port-au-Prince fell into the hands of the English, with a large booty, the 14th of June. The French commissioners, who were at this place, made their escape, with numerous followers, before its surrender, to the neighbouring moun- tains, taking with them, by means of a number of mules, a large amount of valuable property. Finding, however, that the island was now pretty much in the power of the coloured people, captained by Rigaud and Toussaint, the commis- sioners sought the first opportunity to return to France, where it appears their proceedings were duly approved of by the French Government. This was followed by the general spread of the English throughout the different portions of the island ; but they had come into possession of so many towns, and such an extent of country, that their own troops were not numerous enough to hold them, and they had to rely in many cases on negro slaves, officered by themselves, or those French who were in favour of their cause. In many cases these allies proved faithless, and Rigaud and others were still carrying on their operations, by which the English troops met with disaster, to say nothing of the effects of the climate npon troops that were utterly unaccustomed to its peculiarities. "When Levaux was sorely besieged at Port de Paix by the English, he bethought him of Toussaint, whose influence he knew was very great with the negroes ; and by means of a faithful messenger he sent him an offer to TOUSSAINT rOUVERTURE. 131 induce him to leave the Spaniards and join him (Levaux), with his forces, promising to make him a general of brigade. Although Toussaint was in the service of the Spaniards, and had been decorated by them, he judged that the inte- rests of the negroes would be safer under a republic than with the Spaniards ; and he therefore persuaded his followers to join him, and accepted the offer of Levaux. Some Spaniards attempting to interfere with his plans, he did not hesitate to put them out of the way, and joined Levaux at Port de Paix. The peace of Basle in 1795, which ceded the Spanish part of the island to the French, was the means of augmenting the troops of Toussaint, who was now at the head of a large army, by the adhesion of Jean Francois and his troops. Toussaint, hopeful at this time of the cause of his race, took the name of L'Ouverture, in order, as he said, to announce to the colony, and, above all, to the blacks, that he was going " to open to them the door of a better future." Although the English were deserted by their allies, the Spaniards, they remained, with varying success, upon the island; until in 1797, the French Government made Tous- saint general-in-chief of all the French troops on the island, an authority which in effect he had enjoyed for some time previously. The war was then pursued with greater vigour against the English, who, although succeeding in making brave resistance against the French, were finally, in 1798, com- pelled to give up the island, the troops under General Maitland being withdrawn ; but not until a treaty of peace and commerce had been formed on the part of the English Government and Toussaint, by which St Domingo was recog- nised as an independent and neutral power during the war. It is related that the English, in their attempts to estab- lish their power on the Island of St Domingo, expended the sum of £20,000,000 sterling, losing by disease and death 45,000 men. 132 SANTO DOMINGO. In the midst of these operations, the year 1795 brought a peace between France and Spain, the conditions of the treaty of which ceded the entire island to the power of the French; the Spanish troops, it being agreed, should, a month after the promulgation of the treaty, vacate their part of the island, delivering up all the forts, ports, and places occupied by them, as soon as the French troops should arrive to take possession — a sad period in the history of Spanish St Domingo. In order to consummate the terms of this treaty, the French sent to St Domingo city Commissioner Roume to confer with the Governor Garcia in the arrangements for the details of its fulfilment as to the cession of the Spanish part to the French. After waiting there a month, and making all prepara- tions, and the French authorities not sending either the means or troops to take possession, the commissioner was obliged to return without having fully accomplished his object, and the condition of this part remained unaccom- plished, from the fact that the English invasion and the civil war prevented the commissioners sending the neces- sary troops, so that the Spaniards remained in possession until December 1795. The Spanish Government having then sent a fleet to take away the troops, and such in- habitants as wished to retire to other Spanish possessions, the opportunity was seized to transport the remains of Columbus, then resting in the grand Cathedral of St Domingo city, to the Cathedral at Havana, where they at present remain. CHAPTEE VIII. ' Sleep calmly in thy dungeon tomb, Beneath Besancon's alien sky, Dark Haytien ! — for the time shall come. Yea, even now is nigh, "When everywhere thy name shall be Redeemed from error's infamy. And men shall speak of thee As one of earth's great spirits ! " Toussaint's Rule— 7^^ Independence of Hayii—Toussaint takes Possession of the Whole Island, giving it a Constitution — Affairs under Toussaint — Napoleon Attempts to Restore the Island to the French — Details of le Clerc's Expedition — Toussaint's Capture — Rebellion against the French — Cristophe Dessalines — Filial Failure of the French, and their Capture by the English Fleet — Dessalines Marches against the Spanish Part — His Discomfiture — His Cruelties in that Part of the Island — Becomes Emperor — His Cruelties and Butcheries of the Whites — Con- spiracy against Him — His Death. npOUSSAINT L'OUVERTUEE,* one of the most remark- -*- able characters in history, was now in almost supreme control of the island, for though commissioners were sent out from France, such was the power he wielded over the people of all classes and colours, that he was able quietly * Toussaint was originally a slave, but said to be descended from a royal chief in Africa. Hia early life was exemplary for a person of his condition, being passed upon a plantation of the Count de Noe, where, the overseer taking a fancy to him, he was allowed to learn to read and write, even picking up some Latin and mathematics ; and having been promoted to be coachman, he had increased opportunities to improve his mind, thus laying the founda- tion of that wisdom he afterwards manifested. 134 SANTO DOMINGO. to make the commissioners act subserviently to him (Tons- saint). All authorities seem to agree that under Toussaint a reign of order began in the island that was remarkable. The blacks, proud to see one of their number in chief command in the island, looked up to Toussaint as a god ; while he, with a thorough knowledge of his race, prescribed such rules and orders as kept them in a state of tranquillity. He ordered them all to return to work, as they were before the war ; to la- bour on the plantations, for which they were paid as labourers; and he gave every protec- tion to the whites, even inviting those white planters who had fled the island to return and reoccupy their estates. Under his wise rule St Domingo soon ad- vanced in the most rapid manner in her agricul- tural and social pros- perity; but while Tous- saint was wise in peace, he was equally iron- handed in war, and some of the cruelties perpetrated upon the mulattoes, who at first refused to recognise his supreme authority, tarnish somewhat his fame. The year 1800 saw the island in a somewhat more settled state, the French part, with the exception of a small pro- vince iu the south, where Eigaud still held out against the authority of Toussaint, was in a comparatively tranquil state. Toussaint L'Ouverture. BUPLICITY OF ROUME. 135 and nominally under the authority of the French Republic, which was represented by the Commissioner Roume. Tous- saint was, however, the real authority in the island. This chief was not satisfied, however, until he was able to claim that the whole island, including the Spanish por- tion, was under his dominion, and he therefore proposed to the Commissioner Roume that the cession required by the treaty of July 1795 should now be carried out. Roume seems to have been quite aware of the ultimate intention of Toussaint to make himself independent of the Government of France, but considering it better to hide his suspicions, he so far assented to Toussaint's suggestion as to authorise him to appoint Generals Age and Chanlette the agents, with necessary powers to accomplish this transfer of authority. While apparently acting thus in good faith, he, with great duplicity, secretly sent word to the Spanish Governor that he should refuse to deliver up the Spanish domain, and should manage to detain the commissioners until a force from France should have time to reach St Domingo city, and hold it for the legitimate authority of France. Carrying out these secret instructions, the Spanish Governor- General Garcia managed to comply so well, that the envoys, who had with them only a small escort, were made to believe that their lives even were not safe from the Dominicans, who would not listen to the surrender of their city; and they returned to the Commissioner Roume as rapidly as possible, and made their report. Upon the strength of this, Roume rescinded his order for the surrender of the Spanish part ; but Toussaint, compre- hending the duplicity of the commissioner, at first im- prisoned him, and finally sent him out of the country to France. The French representative being now out of the way, and Rigaud the rebellious subdued, Toussaint found himself in unmolested supreme control of the island ; and deeming it 136 SANTO DOMINGO. a favourable time to put in operation a plan he had long been maturing, he, on the 9th November 1800, sent a note to General Garcia, demanding satisfaction for the insult oifered his officers, and advising him that he should send General Moise at the head of 10,000 troops to take pos- session of Spanish St Domingo in the name of the Republic of France. In order to give force to this note, at the same time he despatched it he put in motion the force under General Moise, his nephew, by the northern road through the Oibao country, while he himself, at the head of a column also of 10,000 men, marched by the southern route directly upon St Domingo city. General Garcia, in command at that place, made every preparation to resist these movements, and while sending word to the authorities of the Cibao to interfere as much as possible with the march of General Moise, he himself took measures to delay the march of Toussaint upon the capital. These measures were, however, comparatively ineffectual, though much annoyance was caused Toussaint by the activity of the militia against his columns, until he arrived at Naga, where a strong force in three columns resisted him so effectually that he was compelled to arrest his pro- gress and resort to diplomacy to carry out his objects. This he did by writing a note to Garcia, telling him that he, Toussaint, was surprised to find resistance on his journey, which he had not taken as an invader, but as an officer of the French Eepublic, to carry out the provisions of a treaty made with it by Spain. General Garcia, fearful that his own conduct in the matter would not be sustained by his Government, and satisfying himself that Toussaint really had documents that empowered him to act for the French, decided to cede his authority, and on the 2d January 1801, opened the gates of St Domingo city to Toussaint, who, at the head of his troops, took possession of this famous city, nominally EMIGRATION OF WHITES. 137 for the French Republic, the ceremony being solemnly consummated by a Te Deum in the Grand Cathedral, at which the principal authorities and the troops assisted. Toussaint being in possession, there was an immediate embarkation of a large number of the inhabitants ; first, the Governor and the Spanish officers and their families ; the members of the religious orders ; the most prominent of the citizens, all of whom by the treaty were permitted to take with them their property of every kind. Thus for the first time was the island left without the actual de- scendants of its original discoverers, and the star of Spain, which had blazed with such glory for a time in the New World, now disappeared from St Domingo, to reappear only in later days amid revolution, persecution, and cruelty. Added to this emigration were all those French and their families who, flying from the revolutions in the western part, had sought shelter from those troubles in the Dominican part, and who now, having no^ sympathy with the new authorities, took their leave of the island ; and, for the same reason, many of the native Dominican families, whose pride would not permit them to remain sub- ject to negro rule, though perhaps many of them counted in their ancestors people of that colour. These people sought the various islands of Porto Rico, Cuba, and others, which, by this accession of experienced planters of the cane and coffee, reaped immense advan- tages from this culture, to which they were really the first to give a scientific and systematic form. Thus the poor impoverished St Domingo of to-day has been the innocent cause of benefiting and enriching her neighbours, while she, with more luxuriant vegetation, richer soil, and better climate, awaits an emigration that will bring peace, order, and riches to her shores. It is related that after the surrender, Toussaint had the horrible idea of putting the remaining Spanish inhabitants to the sword, and for this purpose he ordered the populace 138 SANTO BOMINGO. to gather in the public square, where he then directed they should be separated, the women and children together, and the men by themselves, the different groups being sur- rounded by bodies of troops. It is even said that Toussaint's sister-in-law, knowing of this intention, had passed the previous night in prayer, asking God to take away from him such thought. If he ever entertained such idea, he did not proceed to execute it, for though he walked amongst the women asking cruel and rude questions, he finally, on the approach of a terrific storm, allowed them all to disperse without harm ; an action that the superstitious thought was the result of a miracle of the Lord in sending the storm at that moment. Being thus in possession of the whole island, Toussaint seems to have with great wisdom arranged his plans to benefit this part; and in naming Paul L'Ouverture, his brother, as Governor of the south, with headquarters at St Domingo city, and General Clervaux in command of the north, with headquarters at Santiago, he gave to the Spanish part of the island officers who, by their wisdom and judgment, were acceptable to the Dominicans. Having arranged his authority satisfactorily in this part of the island, Toussaint, by a circuitous route, returned to the western part ; it being stated his journey was a perfect ovation from its beginning to its end ; and the inhabitants looked forward under his rule to a season of peace and prosperity, — a future they had a right to expect, since, for the first time in its history, the whole island was united under one government. Efforts were made, by systematising the laws, improving the means of communication, and opening the ports of the island to the commerce of the world, to restore it to a peaceful place in the political world. To better consummate this, Toussaint, who had long meditated his plans, determined to declare the island independent of any European power ; and having formed 'CULTIVATORS." 139 the plan of a constitution for the island, in which he was assisted by several Europeans (Pascal, Abbe Moliere, and Maunil), it was submitted to a general assembly of repre- sentatives convened from every district, by whom it was approved and adopted. Afterwards it was promulgated in the name of the people ; and in July 1801, the island was declared independent, with Toussaint L'Ouverture as its supreme chief. Unfortunately for himself and his country, he held this position but a short time. The autumn of the year 1801 found every part of St Domingo in quiet submission to the authority of Toussaint, rapidly improving in wealth and happiness. Agriculture had been re-established, and many of the French planters had returned and taken possession of their old estates, though they had no longer any slaves. This name had given way to that of " cultivators," and the law had fixed that they should receive for their labour one-third of the crops. While thus offering liberal rewards to industry, heavy penalties were inflicted for idleness. The negro population, owing to these wise regulations, which gave them greater ease and more abundant food, was rapidly increasing in numbers. Among the better classes, following the example set by their former French masters, a great degree of luxury, and even elegance, was maintained, many of their houses being furnished in the most sumptuous manner. In their social life there was a great degree of ease, cordiality, and even refinement ; churches were opened, and religious ceremonies, according to the Romish Church, performed ; dramatic exhibitions were given, and some at- tention paid even to music and painting. Such was the state of afi'airs when, the hostilities between Great Britain and France having ceased, Bonaparte, who now held the position of First Consul, was able to turn his attention to St Domingo, and determined to 140 SANTO BOMINGO: re-occupy that island for France by sending out a large expedition. In the harbours of Brest, L' Orient, and Eochfort, a squadron of twenty-six vessels was collected in the month of December 1801, and on board this fleet was a force of 25,000 men, completely armed and equipped. In com- mand of this force was Napoleon's brother-in-law, General Le Clerc, and with him were many other distinguished officers, Eochambeau being in command of one of the divisions; Villaret was the admiral-in-chief; while Ma- dame Le Clerc accompanied her husband to participate in his triumphs. On the 28th January 1802, this fleet arrived in the Bay of Samana. Three divisions were immediately sent to dif- ferent parts of the island. General Kerverseau was sent with one division to St Domingo city. General Boudet with another to Port-au-Prince, while Le Clerc himself, with the rest of his troops, except a detachment sent to Manza- nilla Bay, went to Cape Francois. St Domingo city, after some resistance, and through the strategy of a native Dominican, Colonel Baron, in getting possession of some instructions from Toussaint to his brother Paul in command of this city, fell into the hands of the French under Kerverseau, the 20th February 1802 ; while at the same time General Ferrand received the sub- mission of General Clervaux in command of the negro forces of the Cibao. Thus the Spanish part immediately came under the do- minion of the French authorities. Kerverseau, as having been the chief of the expeditionary force, assumed command of the colony, remaining at St Domingo city, where he governed, it is said, with such strictness and severity, that the Dominicans soon grew weary and restless under him. As this capitulation had been brought about by the Dominicans making an attempt to assist with arms the FRENCH OPERATIONS. 141 efforts of the French, Toussaint L'Ouverture, when he re- ceived the news of the fall of this capital, which he had directed should be defended to the last extremity, revenged himself in the most cruel manner by murdering in cold blood nearly the whole of a regiment of Dominicans who were at Port-au-Prince with him, having taken the pre- caution to disarm them, and send them under escort to a place called Verette. At St Domingo city, General Ferrand, claiming to be the superior officer, had deposed General Kerverseau from his office, and imprisoned him for refusing to recognise his authority, finally sending him (Kerverseau) to France as a prisoner, after which Ferrand appears to have devoted him- self with great zeal and energy to the material welfare of that part of the island, improving the capital by seeking to bring to it the waters of the river Higiiero, in the vicinity. Meanwhile a terrible state of affairs was existing in the western part of the island. General Rochambeau, on the 2d February, landed at Fort Dauphin, on the north coast; and before any demand of any kind was made upon the authorities, the troops were landed on the beach in line of battle ; and a number of the negroes having gathered there in mere curiosity, were put to the bayonet, and the fort immediately taken by the French. The next day, the main body of the fleet and army, under Villaret and Le Clerc, arrived off Cape Francois, and im- mediate preparations were made to land and take posses- sion of the town. Henry Cristophe, a black man, who sub- sequently became famous as well as infamous, was then in command of the district of the Cape as general of brigade, and on the approach of the fleet he sent a messenger on board to inform its commander that his superior governor. General Toussaint, was absent at present ; and such being the case, he could not permit the French to land a single soldier until orders had been received from Toussaint. In 142 SANTO DOMINGO. case, he declared also, the French should refuse to await these instructions, and should attempt to force a landing, all the white inhabitants would be considered as hostages for their conduct, and that an attack on the town would be followed by its immediate conflagration. Le Clerc immediately replied, that if, in the course of the day, the forts Picolet and Belair, with all the batteries on the coast, were not surrendered, he should land his forces the next day at daybreak. Oristophe replied to this letter, refusing to comply with the demand, and stating that he would make such a defence " as became a general officer." A deputation of the inhabitants also waited on the French general, and, with the Mayor at their head, begged him to make no attempt on the city, as the blacks would certainly put all the white people to the sword. Le Clerc received this deputation politely, gave them some proclama- tions to circulate, and refused their request. On the 6th February he landed his troops some distance below the town, but sailed his fleet up to the mole of the city. Oristophe, however, no sooner received news of this movement, than, knowing the town to be indefensible, he set fire to it, and withdrew with his troops and some 2000 white inhabitants, to whom, though he had threatened to do so, he did no harm. News had by this time reached Toussaint, who was in the interior of the island, of the state of afi'airs, and with immediate promptness he issued orders putting the island in a state of defence against the French. It was at this time that Toussaint was endeavoured, through the medium of his children, to be seduced into giving in his allegiance to the French. Two of his sons had been sent to France to be educated, and had now reached quite mature years, one being almost of age. These sons the French Government had sent out on the expedition, in hopes that through them Toussaint's NEGOTIATIONS WITH TOUSSAINT. 143 sympathies would be worked upon to yield without a con- flict the dominion of the island. Under the escort of their tutor, they were sent out to the home of their father, some ten miles from the Cape, Toussaint having passed his word, which even his enemies say was never broten, that the children and their tutor should be returned in safety, without regard to the result of their interview. At the same time, Le Glerc sent an epistle, written by Bonaparte, and addressed to Toussaint, in which he was promised all manner of honours if he would give in his allegiance, while the tutor was instructed to make every effort, through the children, to induce Toussaint to accede to these proposals. It is only necessary to say here, that these offers were all unsuccessful ; that Toussaint, with a great effort, sent back his children in these words, " Take back my children, since it must be so. I will be faithful to my brethren and my God." Negotiations failing, Le Glerc issued proclamations ad- dressed to the " cultivators " of the island, endeavouring to enlist them against " their severe tyrant and master," and in many ways directing their attention to the hardships Toussaint had put upon them. To the black soldiers and officers he made tempting offers ; and as many of these were ambitious for themselves and jealous of their chief, numbers were induced to join the French ; while the most ignorant cultivators, seeing these things, and probably indifferent so long as they remained unmolested, took no active part. The campaign was opened by Le Glerc ; and then com- menced a terrible war, that for months devastated again this beautiful land, in which, with varying success, thousands of lives were lost on both sides. But as Le Glerc was constantly joined by negro troops and officers who became tired of the war, and who doubtless believed they would be as well off uuder French as negro rule, the 144 SANTO DOMINGO. island would probably have soon again returned to the dominion of France, had it not been for a fatal mistake of policy. Le Clerc, carried away by his success, and thinking he had no further obstacles to overcome in the reconquest oi the island, came out boldly with the original programme of the expedition. This was to declare the negroes restored to their former owners, or their attorneys, a proceeding which, being an- nounced to the inhabitants of the island by a proclamation issued in March, fell amongst them like a bombshell, as everj"- promise had been given all classes that slavery would not be re-established on the island by the French. Toussaint was far too wise a man not to avail himself of this weapon that the French had placed in his hands ; for, knowing full well the spirit of his race, he felt he could now count upon them, even to the humble cultivator, with safety, and he therefore immediately arranged his plans to prosecute the war with renewed energy, and joining his forces with those of Cristophe, he left the shelter of the mountains for the sea-coast, where the cultivators, the class most interested in the French proclamation, were in the largest numbers. Wherever Toussaint went, he called upon the blacks, however, of every class to take arms and join him ; and this they did to such an extent that he was soon able to drive the French of the north into the town of Cape Francois, which he would undoubtedly have captured, had it not been that the French hastened to concentrate their forces at that place. Such was the congregation of their forces at this place, and so closely were they besieged, that large numbers fell a prey to a pestilence which broke out among the troops. Le Clerc, finding himself thus cornered in the island, and powerless to take active measures, resorted to diplomacy, and issued another proclamation, dated April 25th, which he caused to be distributed among the blacks. TOUSSAINT'S CAPTURE. 145 This set forth that when he first arrived in the island he was not familiar with the condition of its affairs, and that therefore some mistakes had been committed, and that in order to remedy these, and provide for the peace and welfare of the island and the liberty of its inhabitants, an assembly should be called of representatives from dif- ferent parts of the colony, without regard to colour. Negotiations were also opened with Cristophe to bring the prominent officers and their troops to terms. Although the terms, as proposed by Cristophe, were not very palatable to the French, they were finally accepted ; and by the beginning of May a peace was concluded with Toussaint, and the subordinates and troops under him, by which the dominion of France over the whole island was duly acknowledged by all the inhabitants. One act of treachery on the part of the French remained, however, yet to be performed ; for Toussaint, having retired with his family to a small plantation near Gonaives, was, in the middle of the very month in which the treaty of peace had been made, taken prisoner at midnight with all his family, and taken on board a French frigate which had sailed into the harbour in the dead of night. From thence he was transferred to the frigate Hero, sent to France, where, being placed in close confinement, first in the dun- geons of Joux, and afterwards in those of Besangon, he died, as it is supposed, of starvation, the fact of his death being announced in the French gazettes of April 27, 1803. This breach of faith on the part of the French opened the eyes of the negroes to their ultimate designs; and Le Clerc having assumed the rank of Governor-General of the island, and issued a decree giving a new form of government, some of the compatriots of Toussaint took alarm, and immediately placed themselves at the head of some bodies of negro troops. Most prominent of these chiefs were Dessalines, Cristophe, and Olervaux. A rising took place also about this time in the interior K 146 SANTO DOMINGO. among the mountains, of other chiefs, one of whom was a nephew of Toussaint ; and the whole island was soon ablaze with the fires of the insurrectionists, so that the French were soon busily occupied in their new efforts to subjugate the island. A chapter of horrors might easily be written from the events that followed. French writers themselves speak of the scenes then enacted with loathing and disgust, and it is not perhaps to be wondered at that, when the negroes came into power, they retaliated upon the French some of the revolting cruelties that had been practised upon their own people by the officers and soldiers of that nation. To this day almost, " Les Noyades " of the French are spoken of with horror ; for their usual method of disposing of their prisoners, by making them kneel on the edge of a trench some twenty or thirty feet in depth, and then shooting them until the trench was filled by their dead bodies, was deemed too tedious and troublesome: as an easier means the negroes were placed in vessels, carried out some distance to sea, and, being chained together, were forced overboard and drowned. Such was the French civilisation that was desired to be introduced into the island ; but some of their refinements were truly of a classic kind, for, following the example of the ancient Eomans, they had their arenas, in which the performers were naked negroes and ferocious bloodhounds, brought from Cuba expressly to hunt this kind of game. Retribution followed these deeds, it would appear ; for the commander-in-chief, Le Clerc, worn out with troubles of body and mind, died on the island, and his corpse was sent to France, followed by his apparently inconsolable widow. Eochambeau succeeded to the command, but long months were spent without the French making headway; in fact, they were gradually losing their hold, foot by foot, notwith- standing that new troops had been sent out from France MUTUAL ATROCITIES. 147 until, at the beginning of 1803, the French were again cooped np in Cape Francois. Here the negro chief of the besiegers, Dessalines, gave an idea of the character which he was later to develop into brutal bloodthirstiness. In one of the engagements the French had captured some 600 prisoners, and without taking into consideration that numbers of their own men were in the hands of the enemy, the French general ordered them all to be put to death. When this news reached Dessalines, he at once ordered 500 gibbets to be erected, and selecting all the French officers he had in his power, and adding a sufficient number of privates to make up the total to 500, he caused them all to be hung up at break of day in sight of the French army. In the spring of this year, war had been again declared between England and France ; and in July an English fleet appeared off the harbour of Cape Francois. Dessalines immediately opened communication with its commander, asking his co-operation against their common enemy ; and although the latter declined positively to accede to this request, yet the efforts of the fleet in blockading the sea front of Cape Francois, materially assisted Dessa- lines, who, with his troops, cut off communication by land for the French. Notwithstanding this, the French held out until Novem- ber, being reduced, however, to the extremity of feeding on the very dogs of the place ; and Dessalines at that time making his preparations to storm the town, Rochambeau deemed it best to make terms for its surrender, and the withdrawal of the French from the island. Articles were signed on the 19th November with Dessa- lines, by which it was permitted to the French to evacuate Cape Francois and all its forts, with the munitions of war pertaining thereto, while they were to be allowed to retire on board their ships, with all their private property; the sick and wounded were to be left in the hospitals, to be 148 SANTO DOMINGO. taken care of by the blacks till they were sufficiently recovered to be sent back to France in neutral vessels. Notwithstanding these terms showed much liberality and great kindness of feeling on the part of Dessalines, the French were not satisfied without attempting to com- mit another act of treachery with their black enemies ; for on the very day of the meeting with Dessalines, the French endeavoured to treat with the commander of the English fleet for the surrender to him of the city, but in this they were not successful. This coming to the ears of Dessalines, the surrender of the city was immediately demanded, and the flag of the negroes was, on the 30th November, placed on the walls of the city, the French retiring to their ships, where they were in a state of great alarm ; for the blacks, it is pre- sumed for their meditated treachery, had threatened to sink the ships of the French with hot shot. The English, who had been watching off the harbour, in expectation of capturing this fleet, had a message sent them by the French commander that he was willing to surrender to them, to escape the threatened attack of the blacks ; and the English commander having accepted the terms pro- posed, the negro authorities were notified that the French fleet was under the protection of the British flag, and were therefore requested to commit no hostile act. As soon as the wind permitted, the French fleet sailed out of the harbour with its flags flying, but as soon as they were outside these were hauled down, the broadsides of the vessels fired, and the fleet surrendered. Shortly after, the small force remaining on the island at St Nicholas' mole took its departure, and thus the power of Napoleon was lost for ever on that part of the island. Dessalines now devoted himself to placing the island in a condition to benefit by the new state of affairs, and amongst other things, in order to allay the fears of the whites remaining on the island, issued a proclamation pro- DESSALINES. 149 mising protection and safety to all, stating that the war that was just ended had been in no wise carried on against the people of the colony. A proclamation having been issued the day before the evacuation of the French, signed by Generals Clervaux, Cristophe, and Dessalines, declaring the island independent, a formal declaration took place to this effect on the 1st day of January 1804, signed by all the chiefs and generals of the army, in the name of the people of Hayti, a name which had been determined on for the new republic. Jean Jacques Dessalines was declared Governor-Greneral for life, with power to enact laws, to make peace and war, and to nominate his successor — powers of which he made most horrible use. Dessalines has become one of the most prominent charac- ters in the history of Hayti; and his indiscriminate slaughter of the whites in the island, to whom he had promised pro- tection, would cover Ms name with eternal infamy, were he otherwise a god. On the contrary, he was a rude, unculti- vated, illiterate negro, who, by force of circumstances, strong physique, and undoubted bravery, came to have the power of life and death over thousands of human beings, the lowest of whom was perhaps his superior in those feelings which are but the natural adjuncts of man. His first act was to encourage the emigration from the United States of blacks and mulattoes. He offered $40 per head to the captains of American vessels for each indi- vidual of colour they should return to Hayti. He offered to open his ports to the slave ships, and to allow the people of Jamaica the exclusive privilege of selling negroes in Hayti, to be limited to men only. This he did on the plea that he wanted recruits for his army, and that so many slaves would be brought from Africa that his plan would secure them from slavery elsewhere, while making them freemen in Hayti. Hardly established in his position of Governor for life, this monster in human form issued a proclamation for the 150 SANTO DOMINGO. purpose of inciting the blacks to murder all the French on the island, stating a long list of the crimes they had committed against the blacks, and appealing to the love of the latter for dead parents, brothers, &c., to rise up and revenge themselves. This, however, not being acted upon by the people or troops, he himself, with his soldiers, proceeded to different towns, and murdered, in cold blood, the French, making no distinction of age or sex. At Cape Francois, not being satisfied that he had success- fully accomplished his object, he issued a proclamation announcing that justice (?) was satisfied, and inviting all who had escaped the massacre to appear on parade. When they did so, they were taken and shot ; and it is related that the little stream that runs through the town was actually discoloured by the blood of the slain. General Ferrand remained in possession of St Domingo city with a small French garrison ; and although at first a number of the inhabitants of the Spanish part had quietly accepted the Haytian Government, they had eventually sided with the French, and .during the troubles of the blacks in the west, many of the French and their families had sought refuge among the Spaniards, where, it is said, their intelligence and example was having a good effect upon the progress of that part. No sooner, however, had Dessalines arranged affairs in the west, than he set about compelling the Spanish part of the island to submit to the Haytian rule. This movement was, besides, quickened by an impolitic order that General Ferrand had issued, that the Domini- cans should make slaves of all prisoners of either sex, of more than fourteen years old, that they should take from the Haytians. In order to accomplish this movement with certain suc- cess, Dessalines had endeavoured to keep his preparations secret ; but Ferrand, getting information, made every pre- DISCOMFITURE OF D ESS A LINES. 151 paration to protect the capital, placing guns in position even on the roofs of the churches and convents. Dessalines having previously caused to be circulated among the Spaniards proclamations in which he threatened all manner of evils in case of resistance, put himself in march from Cape Francois on the 14th May 1805, and taking a circuitous route through the western and southern provinces of the west, he finally crossed the frontier with a force of 25,000 men. The Dominicans united with the French ; and such a terror had Dessalines' name spread over the island by his cruelties, that the very slaves in the Spanish part took arms against him in favour of their masters, whose kind treat- ment had strengthened their attachment. Notwithstanding these resistances, which assumed only the form of guerilla attacks against so large a force, Des- salines' troops succeeded in getting possession of Azua, Santiago, and other places of any importance, and finally sat down before the capital ; but he met here with such a vigorous resistance, that he was compelled to arrange his plans for a regular siege, when the arrival of a French fieet off the harbour interfered with their consummation, and he therefore determined to retire suddenly upon the region of the Cibao. This he did by forced marches, laying waste the whole country as he passed along, and murdering the inhabitants wherever he found them. Such was the depre- dation he committed, that it was years before Spanish St Domingo recovered from the desolation and misery he caused. On his return from this expedition, Dessalines had himself made Emperor, the empire being made into six military divisions, commanded each by a general, who corresponded directly with the head of the Government. The constitu- tion by which the empire was purported to be formed was signed by twenty-three men professing to have been ap- pointed as representatives of the people ; and in it were some 152 SANTO DOMINGO. singiilar declarations, such as the exclusion of white men from acquiring property ; the general name of " blacks " for all the subjects of Hayti, of whatever colour ; the suspension of citizenship by bankruptcy ; every citizen was also re- quired to profess some mechanical art. The condition and treatment of the cultivators was again prescribed by law as formerly, and they worked the estates, many of which had now become the property of the state, though the illegitimate children of former owners were allowed to make claims. The sugar plantations had been mostly all destroyed ; they have never since been restored in any number. The chief produce then (1805) was, as it is to-day, coffee, of which about fifty ordinary shiploads were produced. The population numbered at this time about 400,000 souls, the women being in a large majority. In fact, the cultivators were nearly all of this sex, so rapidly had the war carried off the men. After the expulsion of the French, Dessalines was in great fear that they would return, and he therefore used every means to strengthen his army and increase his resoui'ces. At this time the regular army amounted to about 15,000 men, 1500 of whom were cavalry. Although well armed and drilled, they were badly uniformed. To this force the militia was endeavoured to be made a strong adjunct, every adult male being compelled to be drilled. In case of another invasion, Dessalines had so arranged his plans that the troops were to withdraw to the hills and mountains, after having destroyed the towns and laid waste ■ the plain country ; and for this purpose a series of forts were erected on the tops of hills within support of each other, and the ground in their vicinity planted with such fruits and vegetables as would serve for food. Dessalines, however, did not live long to preside over his empire ; for his natural disposition to cruelty, increased by the power with which he was possessed, at last passed all BE ATE OF BESSALINES. 153 bounds, and the horrible deeds he committed, without the sanction of either law or justice, roused the people to rebel against his rule ; and his life was ended by some of his own soldiers, who, in arms against him, ambushed him at the " Pont Rouge," a short distance from " Port-au-Prince," the 17th October 1806, — shooting him, it is said, as he charged fearlessly upon them with only a walking-stick for a weapon. CHAPTEE IX. ' * And Hayti, from her mountain land, Shall send the sons of those who hurled Defiance from her blazing strand The war-gage from her Petion's hand, Alone against a hostile world." The Whole Island United under one Government — Dessalines' Successors — Cristophe and Peiion — Civil War — Peace between the two Chiefs — Troubles in the Spanish Part — The Expulsion of the French — Co-operation of the English — Restoration of the Authority of Spain. Rebellion against her Rule — Death of Cristophe and Petion — B oyer's Rule — Allegiance of the Spanish Part to him — Condition of the Island — French Claims — B oyer's Decline — The Republic of Dominica. AN the death of Dessalines, the power naturally fell into " the hands of Henry Cristophe, the second in command of the army, whom we have already seen acting so decidedly against General Le Glare at Cape Francois. Petion, a mulatto, however, put forth his claim to be the chief ruler, though Cristophe immediately assumed the title of " Chief of the Government of Hayti ; " and civil war was again produced by the contention of these two chiefs. Horrible and tyrannical as became the after career of Cristophe, there is no question that he began his reign in a wise and most judicious manner, that would have resulted eventually in great benefits to the island ; but it seems a peculiarity of the negroes in power in this island, that no sooner do they begin to feel a little assured in their posi- PETION. 155 tions, than the negro instinct of display, love of power, or some inherent element of cruelty, induces them to commit acts that bring on their own ruin, while horrifying the world with deeds of bloodshed. Unfortunately the acts of the white man in such periods do not permit us to claim much more for him on the score of humanity. Hardly had Cristophe assumed the reins of power than the rival candidate, Petion, placed himself in opposition to him ; and it is with some little pleasure that the eye, running over the pages of the history of this time, finds in the person of this new chief some solid elements of civilisa- tion, humanitj'^, and education. Petion, a mulatto general under Dessalines, had been educated at Paris, at the Military Academy, and was said to be a man of letters and of refinement, of gentle disposi- tion and charming manners ; and having been educated to the military profession, served with ability as the chief engineer of the blacks. At Dessalines' death he was in command of Port-au- Prince ; and when Cristophe marched against him, Petion endeavoured to check his progress at a place called Cibert, some four miles from that city. But he was then, January 1807, defeated, and forced to fly for his life. Then began another civil war in the island between the two parties, headed by these respective chiefs, which finally ended in Cristophe's remaining master of the entire northern district, with his headquarters at Cape Francois ; and by a sort of tacit agreement, Petion in 1812 remained in posses- sion of the southern province, with his capital at Port-au- Prince. Thus the western end of the island was in the power of two parties, while in the eastern or Spanish part matters ■were also in a complicated state. Notwithstanding the various troubles in the island, and the bad success of the French in their attempts to maintain their control of it, they had still retained some power in 156 SANTO DOMINGO. the east by their possession of St Domingo city and Samana; and it would seem as though they held on to these places as points d'appuis, from which they hoped to renew their efforts to re-establish their power over the western part. To facilitate this plan, many French soldiers, or those favourable to the French cause, had been settled in the Spanish part, and had been armed and organised ; and many of the officers even had been encouraged to create families for themselves among the Creole women, so that there should be some permanent interest held in the land. This had created quite a strong body ; and as the French held all the official positions, they had full power to make themselves obnoxious to the native and Spanish residents. This they did to such an extent that a revolutionary movement was inaugurated by one Juan Sanchez Ramirez, a citizen of Cotuy, who raised the standard of revolt among the Spaniards, but at first without much success, and he was forced to take refuge in Puerto Rico, where, however, some of the Spanish exiles united with him, and forming a party, they landed in the province of Seybo, and awakened the inhabitants of that part to resistance against the French. The state of affairs in Spain strengthened this movement ; for the Spaniards in the island, taking courage from the example of the mother country in throwing off the rule of the Bonapartes, rose up at the same time as Sanchez Ramirez's landing, and a strong movement was made in the vicinity of Azua, and also in Cotuy. The movement in Seybo gained such headway, that Ferrand, after making attempts to quell it through his subordinates, was compelled to take the field himself, leaving St Domingo city in charge of a subordinate general, Barquier. Ferrand, the 8th November 1808, met the Spaniards at " Palo Hincado." At first the French, fighting with great SUCCESS OF RAMIREZ. 157 bravery, were successful ; but some of the native troops having deserted them, they were quickly defeated by Ramirez and his followers ; and the brave veteran Ferrand, after having taken the life of one of their leaders with one pistol, blew out his own brains with the other, on finding himself alone, and his troops all either dead or deserted, not caring to survive his ignominious defeat.* The whole of the Spanish part was now in arms ; and Cristophe deeming it a matter of policy to aid in destroy- ing the last vestige of the power of the French in the island, assisted the Spaniards with supplies of all kinds, the result being that the French were finally cooped up in the two places of St Domingo city and Samana, where they were closely besieged by the revolutionists under Ramirez, who now held the chief command over the Spaniards. Unprovided, however, with artillery or besieging material, the latter were unable to capture these places, and they sustained a siege of some nine months, the garrisons, parti- cularly that of St Domingo city, suffering immensely, while the Spaniards who were detained in that city had to submit to every cruelty and hardship during this long term. Ramirez finally sought aid from the English, sending an envoy to the Governor at Jamaica, who fitted out an ex- pedition against Samana, which arriving there in November 1809, the place was captured, the French made prisoners, and their vessels taken by the English, the place being handed over to the authority of the Spaniards. In July 1809, another British force had been despatched from Jamaica to St Domingo city, under Admiral Cumby, the land forces being under General Carmichael ; and after some delay, and just as the English were ready to open * In later years Santana boasted he had the skull of Ferrand, which had been captured by his (Santana's) father, and that he intended to keep it as an heirloom in his family. 158 SANTO DOMINGO. their mortar batteries upon the city from the heights of San Carlos, Barquier agreed to capitulate ; and on the 10th July, the French having evacuated the town, the cross of St George was, for a second time in the history of this antique city, flung to the breeze from its walls. The keys of the city were retained, to be presented by the English Ambassador to the Spanish authorities at Seville, as a token that the ancient domain of St Domingo was once more restored to the authority of its parent country ; and on the 11th July, General Carmichael, the English commander, handed over the city to the patriot chief Eamirez, who took possession of it at the head of his troops. A commissioner was then despatched to Spain to notify that Government of the restoration of St Domingo to its authority ; but that country was in a state of war and con- fusion, and the Government, represented by the Junta of Seville, received this news with indifference, as the question of the home Government then was how to maintain its own safety, without caring to give thought to the re- acquisition of territory already parted with by its own volition. An alliance, however, being formed between Spain and England, which gave a more favourable aspect to the affairs of the former, a commissioner, Francisco Zavier Caro, was appointed and sent out to St Domingo, to give affairs there a regular form. The patriot chief Ramirez was confirmed as brigadier-general, and appointed Captain- General of the island ; a decree was also passed entitling St Domingo, as part of the American colonies, to send dele- gates to the Central Council ; and the island was organised into the same form of government in vogue before the cession to the French in 1795, the church organisation being the same. In fact, the old-time policy of Spain was restored of making the island but a place for ofScial patronage, and the appointments to important offices were made of persons ''ESPA^A BOB A." 159 sent out from Spain ; the services of those who had been the means of restoring the island overlooked or ignored, and the Creoles and other residents of the island found themselves overmatched by newcomers from Spain. This was especially the case with the soldiers, many of whose promotions were revoked, and officers' appointments ignored. This period is known in Dominican annals as the time of " EspaEa boba" (Spanish puppet), for nothing was done to benefit the island ; and, as a writer pithily observes, it was a time when there was no distinction between rich and poor, for all the inhabitants alike were in a state of extreme poverty; there was no luxury of any kind — neither theatres, inns, public walks, or any inducements for spending money, for there was no money to spend ; in fact, the people vegetated rather than lived, tranquilly devoting themselves simply to their favourite amusements of mass, dancing, and religious festivities — a description that will equally apply to-day. With the exception of a few trifling incidents, of local importance only, this condition of affairs continued, im- proved only a little by the accession of some of the exiled families to the population, and by the acts of some of the Governors, until, in 1814, the treaty of Paris gave regularly back to Spain her right upon the colony. So far from this appearing to have benefited the island, it, on the contrary, seems to have reaped no advantage whatever, and the inhabitants appear to have amused themselves at various times in this period by getting up revolutions, of which, it is said, there were some fourteen, though none of them amounted to anything until Jose Nunez de Caceres raised a strong party, incorporating in it the principal men of the island, and declared for its inde- pendence, which was finally accomplished, with little trouble and loss, in December 1821. Then a new banner was given to the breeze, with the name of "Colombia" as the designation of the new republic. As 160 SANTO DOMINGO. this lasted, however, only six weeks, it is not worth while to dwell upon it. Meanwhile we have left the western part of the island in possession of the blacks, under the two rulers Cristophe and Petion, who had agreed to a sort of quasi-peace, and both were devoting themselves to the advancement of their different governments. Petion's government, however, had been disturbed by the insurrection raised by Jean Baptiste Perrier, who, in 1807, had raised the standard of revolt in the mountains of Jeremie, for the nominal purpose of assisting Cristophe, and he carried on this insurrection for a number of years. In 1810, General Rigaud had arrived on the island, having made his way from France, and he also raised a revolt, assuming the command of the south, forming a council at Cayes ; and thus, in this period, the Island of St Domingo may be seen with five distinctive governments upon it — that of Old Spain, of King Cristophe, of President Petion, of Greneral Rigaud, and of Perrier. Rigaud dying, however, in 1811, was succeeded by General Borgella,who finally gave in his adherence to Petion. Cristophe had first made himself king, then emperor, and had set up a court that he endeavoured to make surpass the most gorgeous in Europe. Petion, meanwhile, as president of the republic, was earnestly devoting himself to the good of the people and the improvement of the country. Though he did not follow the example of Cristophe in bestowing orders of nobility, he yet rewarded his followers with grades of military rank. During the government of these two chiefs, and after the fall of Napoleon, it was proposed in France to have St Domingo restored to the Fi-euch Government, and much discussion was thereupon entered into in public as to the feasibility of the plan. No sooner did an intimation of this reach the blacks in St Domingo, than each chief notified the French authorities PET ION'S RULE. 161 that no attempt of any kind would be permitted to be made on the island; each authority proceeding to increase its means of defence. The French Government, however, having hopes of the accomplishment of this object by diplomacy, if not by force, sent out, in 1814, three commissioners to report upon the state of affairs in St Domingo, and the feeling of its chiefs and people for the project. These stationed themselves in Jamaica, from whence they attempted to carry on negotiations with Petion and Cris- tophe individually, and seduce them to their interest. Further communications from the commissioners were laid, both by Oristophe and Petion, before their councils, and the representatives of France were even invited to the island. The propositions in both cases were utterly refused, and in the case of Petion, with this refusal to recognise the demands of France, a proposition was made that indemnity would be paid for the losses with which the French planters had undoubtedly met in their departure from the island. Bonaparte's return from Elba put an end to all these negotiations. Petion, although much beloved by his people, seems to have been too mild and gentle a man to rule over such a peculiar population ; and the inhabitants, especially the cultivators, had, under him, sunk into such a state of idle- ness and sloth, that the island suffered much in its com- merce and products — so much so, that the revenue was not sufficient to meet the expenses of government. To increase the difficulty, Petion had issued an immense amount of debased silver coin, which eventually only added to the distress. Petion, who had been appointed President for life, with power to name his successor, was so overcome, it is said, with chagrin and sadness at the fate of his republic, that he gradually pined away, and died in March 1818, naming Boyer as his successor. L 162 SANTO BOMINGO. Cristophe, Emperor of the north, was still living, and pursuing a very different policy from that of Petion. Under- standing full well the nature of his subjects, he had issued the strictest orders compelling every man to work, and punishing with the utmost severity idlers and vagabonds. To see that these rules were complied with, his subordinates not only were compelled to make inspection of the planta- tions in their districts, but Cristophe himself rode in person at various times in various places to see that his orders were executed. The consequence was, that the whole of that part of the island was in a flourishing state ; the revenues were immense, commerce was assured ; and doubtless, had the Emperor had a little more judgment and humanity, with a longer life, he would have been just the man to show of what his people and the Island of Hayti were capable. While there was no end to his pride, ambition, and love of display, he had the good sense to gather around him educated, intelligent men, some of whom were Europeans, by whom he could profit in the rule of his country; he had even the ambitious project of buying up the Spanish end of the island, negotiations for which he had already entered into it is said. Unfortunately, as he had grown in power, he had more than increased in despotism and cruelty ; and if we believe the stories related of him, he eventually became one of the greatest of human monsters. Finally, to such an extent did he carry his exactions, his punishments, and his tyrannies, that his subjects rose against him, and the troops joining them, his power fast slipped away from him, when, in October 1820, being attacked almost in his very palace by his own guard, he put an end to his own life. General Boyer, who had succeeded Petion, availing him- self of the confusion created by the death of Cristophe, pushed forward to the province of the north, and the people throughout that district receiving him with acclamations UNITED REPUBLIC. 163 and joy, the whole of the western part became united under him into one government called the Republic of Hayti, of which he was made President. In order to ensure the tranquillity of the island, changes were made in the disposition of the northern troops, they being exchanged for those of the south; all titles were abolished, and those generals who had revolted against Cristophe were rewarded by commands in other parts of the island. Hardly had this new Government of the west been organised, than overtures were made by some of the inhabitants of the east to recognise the rule of the Hay- tian republic, and a deputation for this purpose waited on Boyer at Port-au-Prince, and tendered him the allegi- ance of the Spanish part ; for in this part, at this time, there were a great many of the Haytians who were living there, cultivating the ground, and, with the resident coloured people, formed the largest portion of it. Perhaps tired of the disputes between the ambitious leaders of the French and Spaniards, and Spaniards and Dominicans, the mass of the people longed, as they do to-day, for a stable form of government that would secure them in their peaceful labours and its results ; and in this feeling the entire population of the country, of whatever colour, shared. Boyer, therefore, no sooner received intimation of this state of things, than he began to march a force towards the Spanish frontiers, immediately following with his staff, the whole as they advanced being received in the most enthusiastic manner by the populace. President Boyer made a peaceful entry into the city of St Domingo ; and thus the beginning of the year 1822 saw the whole of the island, from Cape Tiburon to Cape Samana, in possession of one Government, the Republic of Hayti, under whose rule it was to remain for upwards of twenty-two years. 164 SANTO DOMINGO. Boyer. As Boyer presided over this republic for many years, it may not be amiss to give a few particulars concerning him. Jean Pierre Boyer was a dark mulatto, a native of Port-au- Prince, and, at the time of his elevation to the presidency of the republic, was about forty-eight years of age. His father was a tailor; and his mother, a Congo ne- gress, had been a slave. He himself, after taking part in the early troubles on the side of the French, had retired with Rigaud to France, from whence he returned with Le Clerc in his expedition, but joined subsequently Petion, to whom he served as aide-de-camp, finally being appointed his successor, after having served in various grades. He wasbelow the middle size, with a feeble constitution, and was extremely fond of display and ornament, taking great pride in showing himself on Sundays at the head of his troops in full dress. In his government of the new republic, Boyer was very far from displaying that judgment and wisdom that had marked the rule of Toussaint ; and, so far from profiting by the example set him by Cristophe, the good results of which had been patent to the whole island, in making the culture of the land and general agriculture the basis of a solid wealth and progress for the island, he seems rather to have followed the weak example of Petion in permit- ting the entire population to sink into a state of idleness, ignorance, and licentiousness. NEGOTIATIONS WITH FRANCE. 165 No effort was made to enforce the cultivation of land ; and even the influence that might have been spread around by the working of the public domain, which was considerable, was lost, the President turning his attention more particularly to the working of the mines in the island. This not proving profitable, and the revenues of the island falling short of the expenses, he also had recourse to the issuing of debased coin ; and of such a poor nature was this, that it is stated the counterfeit was better than the real, having more silver in it. But Boyer probably showed his want of wisdom more forcibly by his action towards the French Grovernment. Although the island was now united under one govern- ment, under the flag of the name of the Republic of Hayti, it had not been able to take its place in any way among the body of nations, not one single country having recog- nised it as having a distinct organisation ; even the South American State of Colombia, which almost owed its exist- ence to the aid it had received from St Domingo, had not even recognised its sister republic. Although, again, this independence of the island from the French had been maintained since January 1804, without any positive denial on the part of France to this assumption, yet now, in 1824, Boyer saw fit to send an embassy to Paris, to ask the recognition from the French of a fact that for years had been tacitly conceded by them — ^the independence of Hayti. For this recognition the commissioners were empowered to offer a pecuniary consideration of 100,000,000 francs ; but this was promptly refused, the French Cabinet, it is presumed, being wise enough to think, that if Hayti herself recognised the claim of France to her soil, the latter would be unwise to yield it. Some privileges conceded to an English company for the working of the mines decided the Government of France to send out to Hayti an expedition for the purpose 166 SANTO DOMINGO. of making demands on account of the above conceded claim. This expedition consisted of a fleet of vessels of fourteen sail, and is said to have been prepared either for peace or war, in case these demands were not acceded to. These were placed in the hands of Baron Mackau, an officer of the French navy, who was authorised to carry- on the negotiations on the part of the French King. The arrival of this fleet off the city of Port-au-Prince, it is stated, excited terror and consternation ; the object it had in view was unknown, and fears were immediately entertained for the safety of the city, which was in an almost defenceless condition. The account given of the behaviour of Boyer himself on this occasion is not very flattering, nor does it tend to elevate one's ideas of his courage and decision ; but on hearing that the object of the mission was peaceable, he prepared to enter into negotiations with Mackau ; and after several interviews and much discussion, an ordonnance offered by the French was finally accepted by Ingenac, secretary-general, on the part of the republic. By this document it was prescribed that Hayti, in case the several clauses contained therein were not complied with, should become a colony of France. As this transaction has lately created some discussion as to its bearing on the Dominican part of the island, it may be as well to give a synopsis of what the treaty was. This document was dated Paris, 17th April 1825 and signed by the King, Charles the Tenth, setting forth that the ports in the French part of St Domingo shall be open to the commerce of all nations; that the French ships and merchandise shall be admitted into the French part on paying only half duties— exports the same ; that the inhabitants of the French part of St Domingo agree to pay in five annual instalments, the sum of 150,000,000 francs RESULT OF NEGOTIATIONS. 167 as an indemnity for the losses of the ancient colonists ; and that when the conditions of this ordonndnce are fulfilled, the French part of St Domingo is declared independent. This document, therefore, ceded to France a right which had been strictly forbidden in the original constitution of the government of Hayti, and which says, " Never again shall a colonist or a European set his foot upon this ter- ritory with the title of master or proprietor." To President Boyer, therefore, belongs the odium of this transaction, which saddled the island with an immense debt, that it has found difficult to liquidate, and which has, un- doubtedly, had the effect of interfering with its material progress, as to this day the debt remains unpaid. The joy, however, at the settlement of this negotiation was, it is said, confined solely to the town of Port-au- Prince ; in fact, in the other portions of the island, the people were so exasperated that a revolution was threatened, and only prevented by the prompt movement of troops to the disaffected localities. Boyer, however, called upon the legislative body to sanction his action with France, and the measure, under pressure, was approved without debate ; the assumption of the debt to France being con- ceded as an affaii- of importance to the national honour and credit. In addition to the money advantage ceded to France by the treaty, there were accorded to her also special privileges of commerce, freedom of duties, &c., that caused great discontent. Every effort was made by the Government to raise money for immediate payment by a loan from the people ; but in this it was frustrated, the people vowing they would never contribute a cent ; the inhabitants of the Spanish part flatly refused to be taxed in any way to contribute to this claim, maintaining that they had never belonged to France. Many of the most prominent and intelligent of the Haytians protested against the treaty, affirming that it 168 SANTO DOMINGO. was not binding upon the island, and that even the action of the Legislative Assembly recognising the tribute to the French as a national debt was not binding upon the people ; for they had gained their independence by an immense struggle, and supported it at the expense of great bloodshed ; in addition to which, the independence of the island from France had now been maintained for the period of twenty- one years, which gave them an undoubted title to it. In addition to the treaty made public, there was also an additional treaty, kept secret, by which the sum of 30,000,000 of francs was to be paid for the fortifications and public edifices ; and of this tribute the sum of 60,000,000 was really paid in coffee and money before the end of the year 1828. At this time, such was the condition of the finances of the island, that in default of the payments then due to France, it became necessary to declare the Government of the island bankrupt, and all payments were discontinued. Louis Philippe having succeeded to the throne of France, finding, in 1838, it was impossible to secure the treaty of 1825, entered into fresh negotiations with Boyer, result- ing in a treaty which reduced the debt to the sum of 60,000,000 francs, and this has again been reduced by sub- sequent payments, though the period named (1867) for its entire extinction has since arrived without the Haytians being able to comply. There were other indebtednesses entered into by Boyer with private firms in France, which have caused great trouble, and involved the country in debt which it has been unable to liquidate. Nevertheless, on the final settling of the terms of the ordonnance, the independence of Hayti was celebrated, 11th July, with much rejoicing and display in the city of Port-au-Prince, the French ofiicers being feted and dined. This aff'air remained a source of trouble for a lono- time after, as in France, before the treaty was formally con- DEFECTIVE LEGISLATION. 169 summated, there was much discussion and demand on the part of the Government, and the loan with which to pay the first instalment of the treaty had to be raised in France on the most exorbitant terms ; in fact, so ridiculous was the nature of these, that at the time, it is said, the " Haytian loan" was a subject of ridicule among the mercantile community. On Boyer's accession to the government of the entire island, it had been hoped that such rules and regulations would have been made by him as would advance its material interests ; these, however, he appears to have neglected, until, finding matters were so rapidly growing worse from the laxity with which the mass of the people were governed, a law was put in force compelling the labourers to remain on the plantations, and to labour at least five days in the week. It was^found necessary even, to carry out this law, to place armed guards to enforce it upon the plantations ; but this would seem to apply to the military only, or those in authority : it being stated that on the plantation of the President himself the soldiers were used to drive the negroes to work at the point of the bayonet or the sword. Such was the result of this laxity in enforcing laws on the part of Boyer, that even the people of the north, who, under Cristophe, had been driven into regular habits of labour, were so demoralised during Boyer's rule, by the example of vice and idleness set by those of the south, that there was no longer any systematic culture on the island, the principal part of the population simply growing enough fi'uits and vegetables to give them food. It being seen, however, that the negro would not, in his new state of being, work unless forced both by law and power so to do, resort was had to a series of laws known as the *' Code Rural," which was passed by the Chamber of Communes on the 21st April 1826; and on the 1st May, at the agricultural fete annually celebrated in the island, 170 SANTO DOMINGO. these laws were made known to the populace, by whom they were received with very little satisfaction. In fact, though there can be no question of the good they were in- tended to do, and would do, the whole code is simply a strong illustration of power used to force unwilling labourers to work. There were numerous articles in the code prescribing the duties of non-property owners ; but their real purport was to declare every man who did not own land, having no ostensible occupation, or not. occupied as a cultivator, a vagabond with whom the law dealt severely, placing such at enforced labour on the public lands. Boyer's rule, however, gave no satisfaction to the more intelligent portion of the Haytians, and many discontents were generated, which finally assumed the form of another revolution ; and in ] 843 Boyer was deposed from power by a political party, composed principally of the young, active, and ambitious men of the island, some of whom, having been educated abroad, really desired to see the island improved, while others, however, ruined by a course of reckless extravagance and debauchery, hoped to better themselves by a change. But this was effected under the plea that Boyer had made no advance in twenty-five years ; that he had not given education to the people ; that he had maintained the military system, which retarded the pro- gress of civilisation, and aided him to violate the laws. With the inception of this revolution came a series of others, the results of which are to-day seen in the wretched condition of this once beautiful and cultivated portion of St Domingo. Boyer's government, although lasting a long time, seems never to have been satisfactorily accepted by the Dominicans proper; and it must be conceded his acts were in many cases arbitrary and despotic, and he is accused of great duplicity in his dealings ; as au evidence, the fact that the University of St Domingo, of which the people were justly REVOLUTION AND DISJUNCTION. 171 proud, was entirely closed and discontinued by Boyer, and this too after he had professed himself as being well pleased with it and its students ; but no sooner was he fully es- tablished in power than he ordered these very students, and many of the young men, immediately into the army — a course which succeeded in driving many of the white families from the island. As the result of this state of things, when the above revolution in Haytian affairs proper took place, it was quickly followed by the separation and final independence of the entire eastern or Spanish part of the island. But though the subsequent Haytian Governors lost all control of this part, they endeavoured to retain a portion of the territory, an effort that has been fruitful of discords and bloodshed between every succeeding power, — the land thus remaining as a debatable ground still in dispute ; and as it is one of the choicest portions of the island, it is evident that it will not be relinquished by either side, unless in the last extremity. In this district are comprised Caobas, Hincha, Banica, San Miguel, and San Rafael. The Dominicans, in 1844, seeing the state of affairs in the west, raised the banner of revolt, the young revolu- tionists having at their head a distinguished citizen, Juan Pablo Duarte ; and the movement being popular and suc- cessful, total separation from Hayti was declared, February 27, 1844. And as henceforth the two Governments re- mained for ever separated, I shall only refer to them again in my '' Present State of Santo Domingo and Hayti." CHAPTEE X. ' Amidst the heaven-reflecting ocean smiles A constellation of Elysian isles. The breath of ocean wanders through their vales, In morning breezes and in evening gales ; Earth from her lap perennial verdure pours. Ambrosial fruits, and amaranthine flowers." Land Ho— Arrival in the Tropics— First Sight of Land^Turk's Island— Salt Keys — The Haytian Shore — The Dominican Coast — Arrival off Puerto Plata — Its Harbour — Funny Method of going Ashore — A Night Visit — Historical Notes of the Town — Its Bay — Situation — Trade — People. ON the morning of the sixth day out from New York, all hands were called on deck, just as day was breaking, to catch the first glimpse of land, which proved to be, on nearer approach, the famed repository of salt, Turk's Island, appearing a barren place enough, though valuable to the English as a salt-mine. We were now really within the tropics, and enjoying the balminess of air peculiar to these latitudes, an enjoyment the greater when experienced from the deck of a comfort- able steamer in the exhilarating atmosphere of a breezy early morning. Our next sight of land is strange indeed, being the view of some low-lying sandy islands, which at first appear one long strip of hummocked land, but which resolves itself finally into the place known as Salt Keys, also famous for its salt, — the few houses scattered over it being the HAYTIAN COAST. 173 I r ■! ¥•' I |i„ I ■ ' 1 Hi I' dwellings of the sparse population wlio spend their existence, in what is almost a desert island, in procuring this necessity to life for their more favoured brethren in various parts of the world. But as the day grows older we come in sight of Hayti itself, running down whose coast we soon have before us its higher mountain peaks; and, as we stand closer in, there comes rapidly into view the bold mountain shore of the Dominican portion, of which it is hard to conceive anything more picturesque and beautiful as one ap- proaches it from the sea. Vast ranges of verdure-clad mountains stretch away diagonally from the sea, the spaces between them forming most lovely valleys and savannas, all, as we see them, teeming with vegetation, for not a sign do we see of abrupt or barren shores, or rocky cliifs. Every- thing is picture-like, even to the sandy beach upon which breaks the deep blue sea, forming as it falls into foam a belt of almost silver surf. Then came historic headlands, familiar to the readers of Irving's Columbus, and finally the prominent point. Cape Isabella, that marks the spot where Columbus established the first Christian settlement in the New World, the now almost unrecognisable site of Isabella. Finally we come in sight of the 174 SANTO DOMINGO. hills of Puerto Plata (silver port), marked by the most prominent peak on the north coast, known as Pico (peak) Isabella, or, as it is sometimes called, the " saddle," from its peculiar shape. The storm clouds, though, are now rolling their vapoury masses from its peak nearly 3000 feet high, the effect being wonderfully grand and majestic. Such is the perfect deliciousness of the weather at sea in this climate, that it seems almost a pity to reach the " promised land," were it not that it appears, as we draw near, almost to verify at this distance those lines of the " Emigrant Song," a place — ' ' To rear new homes amid trees that glow As if gems were the fruitage of every bough ; Round the white walls to train the vine, And sit in its shadow at the day's decline, And watch the flocks as they roam at will O'er the green savannas so broad and still." But truly " all is not gold that glitters," as we find on closer acquaintance with this really wonderful domain and its peculiar inhabitants ; for here it might truly be said that the aspect of nature is beautiful and grand, and, seen in all its magnificence of luxuriant tropical vegetation, that reaches to the very mountain peaks, is the place where apply those hymn lines so familiar to us all — " Where every prospect pleases, and only man is vile." At five o'clock in the afternoon we are directly off the harbour of the town ; and, without waiting to take a pilot, the staunch little steamer goes rapidly in through the narrow and somewhat shallow channel, the surf rolling gently on the sandbars and shoals that are on each side of the harbour, and we quickly come to anchor some distance from the shore. The bay contained several German vessels, that had lain there for nearly eight months on account of the war between France and Germanj'. They came out for cargoes PUERTO PLATA. 175 of tobacco, of which the Germans have an almost exclusive monopoly in the Island of St Domingo. The harhour is one of the most picturesque in the island, though not by any means one of the best ; for the shore shelves so gradually, that vessels have to anchor at some distance, and even small boats cannot land their passengers, who are compelled to mount upon the backs of the stalwart negro boatmen and be carried ashore — a ludicrous sight indeed. Vessels are loaded by ^ large lighters, and these ~ ^ ^' n 11 , Going ashore. again from small ox-carts, which bring their loads from the shore through the shallow water, such a thing as a dock or wharf when we first arrived being unknown ; but a temporary frame wharf was after- wards erected, but only for land- ing purposes. The change from daylight to dark is very rapid in this climate, as there is no twilight, and darkness found us preparing to make our first visit to Dominican soil. It did not look very promising for a first attempt, as there is no lighting of town streets, and we were told they were filled with mud. Still we had one distinguished gentleman aboard, who, in his desire to taste tropical fruit, could not control his impatience until morning ; and so a party of us, Loading Cargo. 176 SANTO DOMINGO. with pants tucked in our boots, go, via small boat and negro-back, to explore the town. shades of Cuba ! poetic dreams of fairy tropic lands ! where now are all thy realisations ? Or is this, our first introduction to Dominican scenes, a fair sample of what we may expect in all St Domingo ? God forbid ! for in the gloom of night we find mud and filth, narrow streets shrouded in darkness, swarthy faces, and very, very humble habitations. The town of Puerto Plata, like the few towns still left in the Island of St Domingo, is a very old town indeed, as far as its location is concerned, for the buildings were utterly destroyed by the Spaniards when they evacuated the island in 1865. The town, however, has been rebuilt after a fashion, with moderate-sized houses of wood, and in the outskirts with small cabins made of strips of the palm and withes, and roofed with thatch. That it had at one time been a place of very great importance and solid structures, is evident from the ruins of many of the warehouses and buildings still standing, which are composed of stone and the material of the country known as " mamposteria," a sort of concrete. As far back as 1499 the town is spoken of as a flourishing place, and it is even said that Columbus, in one of his later voyages, himself traced the plan of the town, which was afterwards, in 1502, constructed by the orders of Ovando the Governor, who, in order to connect it with the interior, built a fine road, upon which he expended large sums of money, being afterwards reproached therefor, as having committed a useless piece of extravagance. No actual vestige of this road remains. In those days it was a lively place, being the port at which were embarked the products of the mines and the sugar from Santiago and La Vega— the Spanish merchant- men coming here in great numbers for cargoes. The port was originally discovered by Columbus in his fii-st voyage. PUERTO PLATA. 177 and being overlooked by the high mountain already alluded to, the top of which appeared at sea so white to the Spaniards, they thought it covered with snow, as it glistened like snow or silver. Being undeceived as to the snow, they called the port, from this circumstance. Silver Port (Puerto de Plata). In 1543 the place was attacked by privateers, which seemed to be the commencement of its decay; and in 1606 it was one of those ports mentioned in the history of the island as being destroyed by order of the Spanish Govern- ment, in order to stop the illicit traffic with other nations. It figures in history as the place where, in 1669, Delisle landed to commence his attack on Santiago ; and in 1756 it was one of those towns that shared with Monte Cristo in the free commerce accorded to some of the ports. From that street in Puerto Plata. time to the present it has suffered various successes and reverses. After 1822 it was a flourishing place, possessing handsome houses and stores, ruins of which are yet seen. M 178 SANTO DOMINGO. The streets were paved, and on the hills surrounding the town were a great many very well conducted coffee estates. The reo-ion in which the town is located has always been noted as having abundance of gold and silver. Puerto Plata is to-day, however, a very irregularly built town, most of the houses being constructed of wood, usually two stories in height, with balconies on the second floor ; and the principal of these, as well as the storehouses, are placed in parallel streets that run directly down from the hills to the waters of the bay. These streets are narrow and badly paved, but the natural location of the town is a very advantageous one, affording ample space for the develop- ment of a large city. The land rises gently up from the shore to some moderate hills beyond the town, and these again are backed by the mountains, the whole spot being fully open to the breezes from the northern sea, while it is also open to the free transmission of the land breezes, which cool the air during the hot hours of the day. The Old Fort. The town itself is prettily situated on the side of a high FOET OF FUERTO PLATA. 179 mountain running gradually to the sea, the shore forming almost a crescent-shaped bay, to the right of which projects a small peninsula almost like an island, forming the most romantic feature in the town and harbour ; for on it is the ''fortress" (?), a series of dilapidated stone buildings and works built ages and ages ago for protection to the town. Now they are dismantled, crumbling ruins, overgrown with moss and vines and grass, and form as pretty a study of ruins as any artist could desire. They still, however, pro- fess to be the protection to the port; and to strengthen this idea, there are about twelve men and one musket, to say nothing of several rusty pieces of ordnance that cannot be fired, all left there as an established Dominican military (?) post. The actual port of Puerto Plata, though not by any means the best in the island, is capable of being made into a very important harbour. The entrance is not very good, owing to the bars on each side, on which the sea always makes a heavy surf. It faces exactly north, and a vessel must, in entering, keep very close to the point of the breakers, near the old fort, on the eastern side. The bottom has about three fathoms of water at entering, but shallows very quickly ; and large deposits of mud, it is said, are brought down by the two rivers that empty into the bay ; but there is anchorage in places seven fathoms deep. This anchorage is usually good and safe, having once passed the reefs at the entrance, though the squalls from the north and north-west are occasionally felt. During the rainy season the rivers above mentioned cause a strong outset ; and at this period one of them (the St Mark), in the west part of the harbour, is open for boats, and is the best watering-place. In winter the wind from the E.N.E. comes in about nine A.M., and continues until near sunset, when a moderate land wind comes off from the south-east; but the northers seldom 180 SANTO DOMINGO. blow strong into this port. The best loading season here begins when it is ended on the other side. The port of Puerto Plata is the most active one on the Island of St Domingo ; in fact, it constitutes, with the capital, the only places worthy of that name ; and here is done the principal commerce of the island. This is almost exclusively confined to the foreign mer- chants, the majority of whom are G-ermans, who have the entire monopoly of the tobacco trade of the region of the "Vega Eeal," which is almost the exclusive seat of its culture, having for the capital of the district the town of Santiago, the first in importance in the island. This business of tobacco gives rise and life to the entire trade of the town of Puerto Plata. Without it there would be nothing for the storekeepers, as there is in this vicinity no agriculture other than the growing of a few fruits in a shiftless sort of way. There is also the shipping of ma- hogany and other woods, the loading of which, however, generally takes place at the mouths of various creeks and rivers, or in the bays along the coast. The population of Puerto Plata is variously estimated at from two to three thousand inhabitants, mostly "people of colour," which may mean jet-black African, mulatto, or not pure white. This name, however, is never bestowed on a Dominican if possible, as they are very " touchy " on this subject, all being equally citizens. It may be as well here to explain the meaning of the terms applied in the Spanish islands to the difierent colours of the people. Creole is a descendant of Europeans settled in America. Mulattoes, or the ofi"spring of Europeans and negroes. Mestizos, or the offspring of Europeans and Indians. Negroes J the pure African. Of this population, the whites and mulattoes are the storekeepers and tradesmen in the town, and the blacks and mestizos are the labourers about warehouses, ships, &c. DOMINICAN AMERICANS. 181 Here in Puerto Plata there are a large number of negroes from the English islands Nassau, St Thomas, Jamaica, &c., most of them speaking English quite well; in fact, a large number of the coloured people speak some little of two or three languages. I was struck by the free, frank, and manly way in which these men look and speak, evidently showing they feel their importance as freemen— very different from the same class in Cuba. The women earn their living principally by washing clothes ; and, as a smart Nassau negro told me, did better and worked harder than the men. Those who came out from America appear particularly intel- ligent, retaining all the habits of neatness peculiar toour best coloured people. Some of them, in their towering high bandana head and gay coloured striped dresses, were models in this way. How- ever, in conversation with many of these people, I learned they were all will- ing to work, and work steadily, if they got pay ; many of them were per- fectly willing to go upon the farms in the vicinity and perform agricultural labours, provided they were sure of pay; but there is no general agriculture, and those eno-ao-ed in it are of limited means, and cannot afford to employ labourers. Plenty of labour can be had at from $1 to $3 per day. Dominican American. 182 SANTO DOMINGO. according to length of time, and by the month all are will- ing to work for $10 and $12. I found a good many negroes from the United States, who came out in the great emi- gration scheme some forty years ago. They appear intel- ligent, industrious, and tolerably well-to-do. The society of Puerto Plata is very limited indeed, being confined to a very few families, and these mostly foreigners ; and their homes, with one or two exceptions, are one-storied frame-houses of three or four rooms. The prevailing religion of the people is Roman Catholic, but there is a Methodist church established, and freedom of worship is supposed to exist ; and, perhaps, does to a cer- tain extent ; but my experience in trying to leave the town made me aware that " church holidays " are strictlj'' en- forced, the stores being closed and all traffic ceasing, and I could not even hire a negro to carry my luggage until he had obtained permission of the authorities, the reason given being it was " dia de fiesta." First impressions, it is said, are always best, but this was not my experience of Puerto Plata, for the place im- proved much on acquaintance, and I spent many days there pleasantly enough, though there was that which, at first sight, astonished and even disgusted me. Bright and early in the morning, which is always the most charming part of the day in the tropics, our party sallied out sight-seeing. The weather was like a day in early June — crisp and fresh, and everything green and bright ; and the town appeared to better advantage than on the previous night; but the streets, mostly unpaved, were filled with mud and filth. We first went to the " Plaza Mercado " or market-square, and a more ridiculous sight cannot be imagined ; for here, in a space about one-fom-th of an acre, was held the daily market. A few rude booths, made of thatch and poles, composed the butchers' stalls, in which were exposed fearful specimens of various meats. Ai-ound the square were seated groups of women and chil- MA RKET. 183 dren, with cloths spread upon the ground, upon which were displayed the various fruits in limited quantities, herbs, Market Square. salad, eggs, six to eight in a lot, peas by the cupful, &c., &c. This was our first opportunitj'^ of seeing the native Dominican chocolate, which is prepared by the country people, and sold in small flat cakes of a quarter or half pound each. As thus prepared, it has not a very attractive appear- ance ; for so rudely is it manufactured, that the broma or natural oil of the fruit gives the cakes a very greasy appear- ance and dark colour. Most of that sold at Puerto Plata comes from the little village to which the fruit gives its name (Cacao), a short distance from the town on the river San Juan, many of these country people coming miles along the coast road 184 SANTO DOMINGO. with nothing else but this, in small quantities, and a few bananas, to sell. Thence we strolled to the outskirts of the town, and so on to the snaall river from which the carriers get the water with which the towns-folk are supplied. A sudden turn in the road displayed to the astonished gaze of most of our party forty or fifty women of various ages, in various Washing Clothes. positions in the river, washing clothes. Some were entirely nude, some with only a waist-cloth, but all industriously washing away and chattering like parrots. Our stopping to look was the occasion of much merriment and chaffing increased by the vigorous screams of a nude old beldame of " Vaya ! vaya ! " (go away), which we presently did. Finding ourselves at a small " tienda niista " (notion store), with country garden attached, I engaged the pro- prietor in conversation, while he kindly took us through TOBACCO. 185 his place, knocked the wild, the sweet, and the bitter oranges from the trees for us ; showed us the chayote, the mango, the caimito, bread-fruit, yuca, from which cassava bread is made ; the banana in its various forms, under the general name of platano ; the shaddock ; the calabash, from which they make their bowls and cups; the various kinds of palm, including the cocoa, and many other fruits and plants, all growing almost without culture in a little place of an acre or two ; and, to use his expression, " It is their nature — they grow themselves." Amidst mud and mire, in front of this place, stretched the " Camino Real " (royal road, in name only), that runs into the interior to the large town of Santiago in La Vega, one day's journey from Puerto Plata. Upon this road that day, I think, there must have passed at least two hundred mules and horses, each carrying two bales or ceroons of tobacco, of about one hundred and twenty-five pounds each; and as this was the beginning of the tobacco harvest, we were told it was a daily occurrence. The Dominican tobacco cannot be said to be first-rate, any of it ; much of it is very inferior, and all of it is " flojo " (weak), as they say here. But this arises not from any lack of merit in the soil to grow it, but simply from want of attention and knowledge on the part of the cultivators, very difierent from their Cuban brethren, who spend whole nights watching their plants for the worm, or carefully trimming the plant at the proper time, and by other cares and precautions bringing it to perfection. The work-horses here are many of them as small as the mule, while none are larger than the ordinary-sized mule with us. Some of those that bring down the tobacco are not larger than a small pony, yet are well proportioned and clean limbed, and withal very wiry and tough, which they need to be from the cruel treatment they receive, many of them being completely used-up in their journeys. 186 SANTO DOMINGO. Horse. A sad lot they are, as one sees them, sore-backed and covered with mud, rest- ing before the warehouses. The price for a good horse is usually about $40 ; but I was amused, in address- ing several horsemen the question, " Horse for sale ? " to hear them say invariably, " Yes, seuor— $100." The water of the little stream that supplies the town is like that of all the rivers of St Domingo, clear and cold, and very pleasant to the taste; but although it is lime- stone water, it is considered to be very wholesome. This is brought into the town by water-carriers, who, each possessed of a small donkey, swing a large cask on each side of the animal, and then, mounting on the back, belabour the poor brute into town, thus carrying the water from door to door. Puerto Plata is considered a very healthy place, as, in fact, the whole island seems to be; the only thing they suffer from being the bilious and intermittent fevers which sometimes prevail, and of which we have so much in the Water-carrier. CUSTOMS. 187 United States. If it is not healthy the people there should not complain, considering the way they live and the con- dition in which they keep their roads, streets, and dwell- ings ; but they uniformly pronounce it perfectly healthy, even in the rainy season, which, on this side of the island, occurs in about the months of December, January, and February ; though this year, it is said, more rain has fallen than for the past five years. I find that all the coloured people that came from the United States like this climate, and would not care to go back, except temporarily to see " home." The people are all taking an interest in the United States, and many are trying already to learn English, for which purpose a night- school has been established in Puerto Plata, which is well attended. Having finished up pretty well sight-seeing in the town and vicinity, we adjourned at twelve o'clock precisely to the French hotel for breakfast, this being the regular hour for that meal, the habits of the people being adapted to the natru-e of the climate. They rise early, five or six o'clock, have a cup of chocolate or coffee and a roll and some fruit, and then go about their affairs until twelve o'clock, the breakfast hour, followed by the siesta until two ; then busi- ness again from two till four ; after which, at six o'clock, is the dinner. It is the custom for those who have horses, at this hour of the day, to take their " paseo " on horse- back, the evening hours being usually delightfully fresh for such exercise on their easy-going horses. I noticed that in many of the habitations the hammock is used in lieu of bed, being made either of grass or canvas. The nearest approach to a bed, except in the better class of houses, is an ordinary cot with pillow and sheet. The traveller having no acquaintances in the town fares rather badly for hotel accommodations, for there are only two establishments that have the slightest claim to the name. One of these, kept by a German, Emil, has 188 SANTO DOMINGO. only two or three rooms ; and the other, kept by a French- man, about the same ; the table is, however, very fair. We had here our first insight into the motives that have induced these people to express a desire for annexation to the United States ; for a party of us called to pay our respects to the Government officer of this district, known as the Administrator of Public Property, who has a very charming residence on the borders of the sea, and who received us with the utmost courtesy. Though he spoke no English, he was very ready to converse in Spanish. As Minister of Public Property, he informed me that the principal domain of the Government was in the ports, bays, and sea-coast towns of the island ; that in the interior there was no certainty as to the quantity of Government lands, as they were mostly held in private right, but that in each sea-port town there were valuable tracts belonging to the Government ; that none of this property would be sold at any price pending the question of annexation, for since it was first broached, two years ago, an order had been issued to that effect ; nevertheless, the Government was perfectly willing to lease any of its property for two, three, or five years, or even, in an extreme case, where a bonajide purchaser desired to make a home for himself, the " Ayuntamiento " (town council) was authorised to give a deed of such site. It seemed strange to us, coming from a populous country, where land in any desirable place commands such a hio-h price, to find here that town lots are and can be bought for two or three hundred dollars ; that within a mile of the western gate of the principal city 150 acres of desirable land has been sold for $600. Upon this land cocoa-nuts enough can be raised in two years to more than triple pay for the place. But this is the result of the terrible mill in which the island has been ground up, until nothing is left but ruined walls and magnificent earth that is valueless unless the country can be repopulated with labourers. REASONS FOR ANNEXATION. 189 The official spoke to me feelingly concerning the motives with which the Dominican authorities were influenced in their desire for annexation, telling me, to use his own words, " I am a Dominican, senor, and I am rich enough to go and live in any part of the world ; but then I would have no country. I have no interest at stake except the welfare of my beloved country. Naturally the property that I own here will become more valuable if the island goes to the United States ; but why should I be blamed for that ? I do not desire office ; all I want is to be sure that my property will be handed down to my children with cer- tainty; but under the present state of things there is none. We have no money ; we have not enough people in the island to make it prosperous ; we are liable to attack from Hayti at any moment they may have a revolution there ; and, therefore, for our own safety we want annexation." We went through the town to examine more closely the stocks of merchandise in the stores, which we found were mostly supplied with goods from St Thomas, which, being a free port, is enabled to undersell all other points in this region. I found, however, that a good many domestic dry goods could be used here to advantage. Straw hats, boots and shoes, hardware, agricultural implements, ice, and many other things, could be shipped here to advantage from English and American markets, if the island should become properly settled and governed. Leaving Puerto Plata, and going on board the steamer, we found quite a number of passengers, who were taking the opportunity of going to Samana and St Domingo city, some of them quite black, but all equal in cabin or at table. It was a beautiful bright afternoon as we took our depar- ture ; and as we ran close along the coast, with the fresh trade winds blowing, it was most enjoyable. The whole coast resolves itself into a constantly changing panorama of noble hills, beautiful savanas, bold headlands, charming curvatures of coast, with its belt of sand and surf separating 190 SANTO BO MINGO. the rich green verdure from the pure ultramarine of the sea. Shoals of flying-fish, like myriad bits of pearl, leap and glisten from water into sun, their peaceful sports sadly interrupted by the voracious dolphin, which, with its grace- ful form in glistening, varied colours, jumps, in its eager- ness, high out of water. No habitations are seen in the entire extent of coast, and only one small harbour, in which lies a vessel loading with mahogany logs from the adjacent hills ; and yet this is classic ground, for here were the abodes of over a million of the native Indians ; and here too, over these waters, sailed the grand Colon when on his way back to carry to the old world the fresh glad tidings of the new. Almost all the coast is lined with mangrove-trees, which are usually considered an indication of marshy soil. Some of these trees are so large their trunks would make a good sized rafter ; the bark is most useful for tanning purposes, but the branches are the home of myriads of mosquitoes, the roots being inhabited by the crab and the oyster. An eminent physician travelling on board the steamer, a gentleman familiar with every part of the globe, informed me that he found from experience, that wherever this tree grew there was always a certain amount of malaria and its adjunct fever prevailing. This he accounted for from the fact that the mangrove, flourishing in low places at the water side, has, if I may so describe it, its roots growing in the form of an inverted cage, into which the refuse vegetable, dead fish, and other matter is carried by the current and permanently lodged ; and this forming a mass of decom- posed material, an effluvia is produced creating disease and pestilence. The removal of this tree from localities has always been accompanied by an improved sanitary condition of the vicinity. There is usually along the whole of this coast a line of surf, but at low water some of the bars are left bare, and THE MAN AT I. 192 on these are found lobsters of extremely large size ; basins in the rocks are filled with shell and other fish, while coral and sea-plants are also to be had. In such places the voracious shark makes its home, and, at more rare intervals, the mauati or sea-cow — before 1 > alluded to as the siren of Columbus— is found. In " Ogilvy's Voyages " I find a curious account of these animals when they were more plentiful than they are now. He describes it as breeding in the sea, but also as ascending rivers, where, going ashore, it eats grass. One of the caciques kept in a lake one of these strange creatures (Guayando), 192 SANTO DOMINGO. which was so tame, that when called by its name, Matoom, it would come out of the water and go directly to the cacique's house, where, being fed, it returned to the lake accompanied by men and boys who seemed to charm the manati by their singing, and it often carried two children at a time on its back ; being once, however, struck by a pike in the hands of a Spaniard, it would never after come out of the water if there was a clothed man near. This particular animal, it is stated, lived twenty-six years in that lake. Those who have seen the Frenchman and his pet seals at the London Zoological Gardens, will be prepared to credit this rather fabulous account. After leaving Puerto Plata the coast line tends in a south-easterly direction to the prominent point Old Cape (Francis), a name given to it by Columbus, just around which is the first settlement of any importance along the coast, the little village of Tres Amaras. The country for the first twenty miles after leaving Puerto Plata by land, to the little bay of La Goleta, is quite level and singularly adapted to agriculture, there Cabo Viejo (Old Cape). GAPE CABRON. 193 being many extremely well ordered and organised planta- tions, the residences of some American and German settlers, who only await the settlement of the affairs of the country to enter regularly into the production of the fruits and plants for which the island is famous. Beyond Cabo Viego (Old Cape), almost to the peninsula of Samana, there is hardly a little village of any import- ance ; and though the road, if such it can be called, generally traverses the coast line, with innumerable creeks and lagoons to cross, the country for some distance inwards is quite hilly, and often rocky. At the Bay of Matanzas there is a small village of a few houses, where is stationed a small guard of Dominican soldiers from the interior town of Macoris ; but the road to it is so little used, it has become almost obliterated, and the free use of the machete is necessary to open a way. Beyond Matanzas, to the west, the country is almost entirely primeval forest ; but the land is low and level, and capable, if cleared, of making a fine agricultural country. Clearing Old Cape, the steamer makes a direct line almost to Cape Cabron or Lover's Cape, the extreme north- eastern part of the island, the coast line forming between these two points a large bight or bay, on the eastern side of which begins what is called the peninsula of Samana, but which, in fact, may be deemed an island ; for though now the channel of the Gran Estero is almost filled up, yet the authorities of the past speak of this passage as being open, though in the time of the early French the peninsula was known as " Presque Isle," while some early maps have it distinctly marked as an island. Along the whole of this north coast of Samana stretch the coral reefs that form the little groups of islands known as Los Ballaenas, Los Canas, &c., while the shore itself curves to the very edge of the sea in abrupt hills. Towering above these, at the very extreme point of Cape Cabron, is the landmark of the mariner, the celebrated N 194 SANTO DOMINGO.. " Pilon d'Azuc" (sugar pan), which raises its verdure- clad peak nearly two thousand feet above the sea. Port Jackson, in this natural bight, is the only bay of any importance, and to which the natives at certain seasons resort for turtle. Its waters are smooth, and protected from the sea by a coral reef that stretches almost entirely across its mouth. Thus the whole of this coast presents to-day to our eyes undoubtedly the same appearance it did when Columbus, with his heart full of the grandness of his discovery, and looking forward with anxious hope to the moment when he should make it known to his beloved Queen Isabella, directed along this beautiful shore the prow of his little bark in the direction of the coast of Castile. Sailing over the same waters, amid these same scenes, it requires little stretch of imagination to picture at this vesper hour the tenor and the earnestness of the evening prayers of so devout a man ; for — " 'Twas the hour of day When setting suns o'er summer seas display A path of glory opening in the west To golden climes and islands of the blest, And human Toices on the silent air Went o'er the waves in songs of gladness there. '' CHAPTER XL " Long on the wave the morning mists reposed, Then broke, and melting into light, disclosed Half -circling hills, whose everlasting woods Sweep with their sable skirts the shadowy floods. ' Samana and the South Coast — Cape Samana — Balandra Head — The Bay of Samana — Santa Barbara — General Account of Samana Bay — The Caves of San Lorenzo — Savanna la Mar — Voyage round the South Coast. TVAY had hardly broken when, turning out on deck, I ^ found we were just rounding Cape Samana, a bold high headland with apparently a terraced front, an appear- ance produced by its being a double cliff, the upper of which rises a short distance within the summit of the lower. The face of these cliffs appears steep and gloomy at this early morning hour, but an occasional gleam of light shows their general colour to be red, the levels of the terrace being covered with vegetation. Although this point is considered as the beginning of the bay shore, with its other or southern point at Cape Eafael, a glance at the map will show that Samana Bay proper begins at the south-eastern point of the peninsula of Samana known as Balandra Head, of which, as day fairly opened, we caught our first sight, as also of this noble bay. 196 SANTO DOMINGO. \ i Balandra Head is a remarkable red cliff lying at the foot of Mount Diablo, which, about one and a half miles back, rises 1300 feet high. Between the base of Balandra Head, its continuous line of hills, and the V shore, lies a most attractive sloping levee covered with vegetation, and which would be most charming sites for coffee or sugar i ^lai ifJ' estates, to say nothing of their beauty and if 'k M M) '^^^^^ ^s places of marine residence for the /J P Ml ill inhabitants of the future immense city of I a ^1 nil Samana. But from this point we caught J ffV^ if! °"^ ^''®* ^^g^^ of ttie far-famed bay whose name is now so familiar in the United States. Worthy indeed of all that has been said about its size and beauty, it broke upon me as the most superb harbour g I had ever seen, and before which even I those large and lovely bays of the " Ever " Faithful Isle " (Cuba) must pale. 6 Such is the extent of this noble bay, that no picture, however large, could do justice to its appearance ; but a glance at the accompanying map will give my readers an idea of the form of this superb sheet of water, the coveted prize of many Governments. In imagination clothe the sides of this bay with bold high hills, vary- ing from 200 to 2000 feet high, from which slope gently to the sea charming valleys covered with trees and vegetation ; indent the shore with coves, or here and there small harbours, whose white sandy shores glisten in the tropic sun, and you have some idea of this beautiful bay that Columbus himself has named the "Bay of Arrows," bfeing the place, it is said, where the blood of the children of the New World was first I'' 'l 111 Iff m nm 1^ iliili Wi/'/l|iif ^H^^mi] SAY OF CLARA. 197 drawn by those from the Old. Here resided the subjects of the cacique Cayacoa, whose widow was afterwards baptized in the Catholic faith as DoSa Inez Cayacoa. Ealandra Head. As we enter more fully the bay, we come to a point from which the channel resolves itself into a rather narrow space, with the land close at hand on one side, but shoals on the other that forbid all attempts at entrance there ; and this is the point selected for the site of the old Spanish fort still to be seen. Having cleared this passage or narrows, the channel widens into a noble baj' called the Bay of Clara, and from here, in a north-westerly direction, the steamer heads for the now famous town of Samana, which is situated in a bight or bay indented in the coast, the little island of CareSero' lying at its mouth, while other small but most romantic-looking islands are scattered at intervals within it. Looking out into the great bay between two or three of these, with t^heir rich foliage, and the graceful forms of the cocoa and palm reflected in dark shadows in the water. 198 SANTO DOMINGO. which the glowing glory of a rising sun serves to illu- minate, the traveller from the north cannot help being impressed by the richness of the tropical climate, and he begins to appreciate the strong attachment these children of the sun have for their homes amid such scenes. Samana Bay proper, known also as Port Santa Barbara, may be more properly described as an inlet running one and a third miles east and west, and is one quarter to one half a mile wide. The north shore is formed of irregular hills which rise a short distance from it to a considerable elevation; the head of the bay is low and swampy, the south side being sheltered by a reef and several keys. The town of Santa Barbara is at the west end of the bay at the base, and on the side of some hills, which are hidden almost from the east by a bold headland, on the summit of which is a small Dominican fort in a rather dilapidated condition. The anchorage off the little town is so good, that it is said a vessel may run its bowsprit ashore anywhere in the harbour; but there is a diversity of Santa Barbara. opinion as regards its healthfulness. The town itself is a mere congregation of one-storied houses, some frame, but S A MAN A CITY. U most of them huts constructed of the palm-leaf, in which the natives swing their hammocks in lieu of beds. There appears no commerce, and really no business, if I except the selling of the few fruits the country produces, the bananas and oranges being particularly fine. I had here an illustration of the facility with which " a dog is given a bad name," for my companion, having gone ashore to purchase some bananas, selected the very largest he saw. Not speaking Spanish, and the dusky saleswoman not understanding English, a lively time they had together in their trading, much to my amusement while reclining in the boat. On my asking the cause of the extremely demonstrative proceedings, he explained to me in high glee that the woman wished to take advantage of him, by making him take the smaller bananas in place of the large green ones he had selected. Great was his disgust and chagrin at finding that he had obstinately refused to be honestly dealt with, since the fruit he had bought was only good for cooking, while the smaller ones were the choicest kind for eating. The population is not over 800 or 1000 souls, the ma- jority of whom are blacks, either emigrants themselves, or descendants of those who came from the United States in Boyer's time. The present site of Samana city is by no means the best for a port, as there are many farther along the coast more desirable, but particularly the place mentioned in old writers as Point Martiniquois or Ooroso, about ten miles farther west, where it is said the knowing ones expect to locate the famous city of the future. Here there is a fine situation, healthy air, plenty of stone and wood, and abundance of pure water ; but the whole of the south coast of the peninsula forming the north side of the bay is desirable, having a fine level beach, and gently rolling hills capable of the highest cultivation. At the bottom of the bay, where the river Yuna enters 200 SANTO DOMINGO. by its various mouths tlirougli an extensive marsh, there is no desirable shore, and a bar of mud as yet renders navigation up that river impracticable, except to small boats drawing not over two feet of water. The mouth of this river being cleaned out, will afford a navigable means of access to the great valley of the Vega Eeal. The right to control this navigation, as well as to build a railroad and telegraph lines from the city of Santiago, has been conceded to a private company on most liberal terms; grants of alternate square leagues of land on each side of the road, not private property, have been given, and permission to use the stone and timber on Government land, without payment, in the construction of the road and its repair, while all material needed on the road imported into the island is exempt from duty. From the Gran Estero, or salt marshes, at the mouth of the Yuna, along the south side of the bay, the shore is generally rough and irregular, and in many places in- accessible by land and sea, composed as it is of sterile rock ; while islets of the same are scattered at intervals along the coast, among which are found innumerable beds of oysters. At the end of this string of islands is the famous Bay of Pearls, facing to the west, and bounded on the north by a tongue of land ; it has good anchorage for vessels of the largest size. On the shores of this bay are the noted caves of San Lorenzo, which, if time permits, are well worth a visit by the traveller. They are similar in their formation, and are of the same character, as those of Bel la Mar near Matanzas, Cuba. A narrow aperture opens into a series of large and wonderfully formed chambers, the roofs of which, as well as the walls, are composed of superb stalactites, which reflect every colour of light, while the floors of white sand give a charming air of purity to the scene. SAVAJSri^A LA MAR. 201 Savanna la Mar, a little farther east, is a small settle- ment of about a hundred houses, originally peopled by per- sons from the Canaries, at the same time as its opposite neighbour Samana. It is quite a small place, with a scattered population of about 300 souls. In order to get ashore, the same process is necessary as at Puerto Plata, by boat and negro-back, or wading. This village is, however, situated at the end of a plain of great extent, being more than thirty miles long from east to west, and extending some twelve miles to the south, where the southern range of hills separates it from the great plains of Seybo. All the land of this plain is capable of extended agriculture, though now devoted principally to grazing purposes, for which it is well adapted, being well supplied with water from some nine streams. This is, in fact, the only extent of land on this side of, and adjacent to, the Bay of Samana capable of culture. The country round Samana is comparatively unsettled. One sees here and there the huts of the natives, who are engaged principally in " killing time," varied by a slight stroke of manual labour in the small gardens or farms, upon which grows most everything of its own accord that can grow in a tropical country. The women, with precious little apparel on themselves, occupy their time gaining a livelihood washing for others ; but as household expenses are light with them, owing to the fact that the principal sustenance is the plantain, roasted or boiled, and the clothing and schooling of the children costs nothing, since they have neither, they (the people) do not need to earn a great deal, and therefore do not make the effort. One meets them on the borders of the shore with huge baskets on their heads filled with clothes, the only garment worn by them being a loose semi-gown, whilst following are members of the rising generation in a happy state of nature. 202 SANTO DOMINGO. The familiar donkey, while in every part of the world a subject of ridicule and amusement, yet seems always to be made a useful servant, no matter how small and odd look- ing; and here among the Dominicans he is met with, rough, ill- treated, and small, and yet with an immense pack-saddle,constructed Donkey. in the rudest manner, of straw or palm-leaf, placed upon his back, performing most of the carrying trade that is done. On the mainland we found the establishment of a New Englander, a young man who had come out from Maine, and established himself in the culture of the banana fruit and growing of cocoa-nuts. With a small capital of some $2500 he has been enabled to establish himself, and feels 60 much charmed and encouraged by the climate and life there, that under no consideration will he leave unless an- nexation fails. He plants his bananas just as apples are planted in the North, in regular rows, and the fruit is so much improved by culture, that already his bananas have a reputation in the market. His wife, also from New England, is out here with him, and pronounces the climate the most lovely in the world, and that had she only society, she could desire no pleasanter place in which to live. Samana Bay, the most superb harbour in the West Indies, in the time of the early Spaniards does not appear to have interested the Spanish authorities as to its great importance, though the early chroniclers refer to it always in terms of high praise as a place where a shipping port for an agricultural people might be established. BANISTER ISLANDS. 203 They were, however, at that time interested in the smaller ports of St Domingo and Puerto Plata, as places more convenient for the shipment of the ores from the mines, which at that time was the great interest of the island ; besides, in those days, when steam was unknown, Samana, from a peculiarity of some of the winds that prevail in the bay, was not a desirable port for the ill-constructed, unwieldy sailing vessels of the time. The old writers generally agree as to the Bay of Samana being about sixty miles long, but they calculate the bay as beginning at the extreme point of the peninsula at Cape Samana. Modern writers, however, making their calcula- tions based upon various surveys, agree that, starting from Balandra Head to the mouth of the Yuna, the length is about twenty-five to thirty miles ; the width between Cape Samana and the southern point, Cape Rafael, being about twenty-one miles ; the average width of the bay proper, however, is only about thirteen miles. The actual entrance to this superb bay is, however, quite narrow, for there extends from the southern cape to a clump of rocks or islands, known by the various names of Rebels, Banister, and Levantados, a line of shoals or breakers. By this means two channels are created, the southern one of which is known as Half-moon Passage (Media Luna), but this is only available for small vessels. The northern passage will admit vessels of the largest size, and is capable of being easily defended, as from the islands or rocks of the Levantados to the shore of the main- land the distance is little more than a mile. In olden times great difficulty was experienced in enter- ing this bay, and some very serious wrecks have occurred ; but now the bay is so well-known that no danger is experienced in making this harbour. Banister Islands received their names from an English- man turned pirate, whose vessel was attacked by two English frigates in 1690; but carrying his guns and crew 204 SANTO DOMINGO. ashore, Banister compelled them to retreat in a damaged state, though his own vessel was sunk. Attention was first called to this bay by the freebooters, who, extending along the north coast of the island, and finally overrunning the peninsula of Samana, established in this bay their place of rendezvous. As the French gradually acquired a permanent hold as successors to the buccaneers on Tortuga and the wesi, end, the Spanish authorities became alarmed and made efforts to hold it; and finally, in 1756, a number of inhabitants were brought over from the Canaries, and they were given plantations and live stock with which to begin a settle- ment. This effort was so badly sustained, that the place languished until, in the revolution of St Domingo, a num- ber of French refugees sought safety here, and established themselves, creating some sugar estates. On the uniting of the whole island under Boyer, these people left, and the coloured population from the United States came. The French always laid much value on the possession of this part, and England was at one time extremely anxious to secure it, being, as it undoubtedly is, the key to the southern passage of the Gulf of Mexico. It will be seen that, difficult as is the entrance to this famed bay, it is yet sometimes more difficult to leave it without the aid of steam ; for sailing vessels cannot make their way out, unless with the land-breeze blowing, and often the sea-breeze blows so steadily that it is impossible to get out for a long time. Should, however, a great harbour be established here, this objection could be easily overcome by the use of steam-tugs. Every authority, as well as practical investigation, serves to confirm the belief that Samana Bay and its surround- ings is a spot particularly adapted by nature to be a grand arsenal or navy-yard for the power that owns it. The peninsula, though not very extensive, will afford COAL. 205 occupation and nourishment to a large body of agri- culturists in the raising of fruits and vegetables, and in the culture of the coffee, cocoa, and cocoa-trees, to which the hills are well adapted. Sugar-cane can be produced upon the plains, while the timber is abundant for the purposes of commerce and shipbuilding. The great valley of the Vega Real, drained by the Yuna, with a current of four miles an hour, will pour into its lap an inexhaustible supply of agricultural products and pre- cious woods ; and wherever and whenever that spot may be selected for a city on this noble bay, under a sound Government it is destined in the future to be the great commercial port of this part of the world, rivalling even Havana or Vera Cruz. Although there are reports of abundance of coal on the peninsula, investigation does not verify them, for the specimens that have as yet been discovered are simply the common lignite, of comparatively little value. The captain of the T^ler informed me he had tried it in his furnaces to no purpose. The experience of residents and the records of authorities prove that, in a general sense, this district is very healthy, and free, ordinarily, from epidemics. On the low lands, or where the mangrove-trees prevail, there is always more or less of the " calentura," or slow fever of the country, which, perhaps, under certain circumstances, may terminate in bilious typhoid, or even yellow fever; ordinarily it is, how- ever, a trifling affair, soon conquered with a little attention. Samana is esteemed both a hot and wet place, there being the usual rainy season, with frequent showers in the dry season, while the thermometer ranges at midday as high as 90° in the shade, though at night and early in the morning throughout the year it descends as low as 70°. This temperature is, however, always rendered more bearable by the constant breezes that prevail. It is curious to read, in the works of the writers of 206 SANTO DOMINGO. different nationalities, the harmony that exists in their sentiments as regards the importance and character of Samana Bay ; but especially is this true of the French. A writer in 1861, at the time of the proposed taking posses- sion of the island by Old Spain, writes : " We are particu- larly interested in maintaining the liberty and security of Hayti. This country yet owes us fifty millions of francs, that the invasion of Spain will jeopardise. Our interests are greater in the St Dominican question. The Haytians regard France as a second mother ; the men of colour who preside over their destiny belong to our country by their fathers, as they belong to Africa by their mothers. The advantages, strategetical and commercial, of Samana Bay, have solicited for a long time the regards of maritime nations. This basin, so magnificent, where one can enter only by a channel of a mile wide, would be able to contain all the fleets of the world." Estaing, in 1764, undertook to found there a great establishment. Louis Philippe even, in accord with the recommendation of various French naval officers, had the intention in 1846 to establish a great arsenal there, but this was frustrated by the English alliance. St Eemy, in speak- ing of it, says : " Samana Bay is one of those maritime positions that is encountered but in two or three places in the world. It is not only the military key, but the com- mercial key to this part of the world." On our arrival at Samana Bay we found that the visit of the United States Commission had created great excite- ment among the people, the members of which had pursued their investigations in every direction, and then left for St Domingo city. Following their example, we steamed out of Samana Bay, and it was not long before we passed MontaSa Eedonda (round mountain), that marks the southern point (Cape Rafael) of the bay, being prominent from its strong re- semblance to a sugar-loaf iii iff Mi Y i I ii i|, ; II. •.' "»i* 1 ?. vr ' i ' ' ' 1 ^ T» 1 1 J' "LOS LLANOS." 207 From here to Punta Espada (Sword Point), the shore presents the aspect of a series of declivities covered with verdure, but apparently (as in fact they are) uninhabited. Cape EngaSo marks the most eastern point of the island, and we are now in what is known as the Mona Passage, the name given to the channel which divides St Domingo from Puerto Rico. In the middle of this passage are two small islands known by the names of Mona and Monita (Monkey and Cub). Mona, the larger of the two, is about seven miles long and two wide, and was given to Diego Columbus by the Spanish rulers in 1512; and at one time is said to have been fully under cultivation, but now it is uninhabited. The course of the steamer being now entirely changed, she heads almost due west, and we pass the Island of Saona, once famous in the annals of the Jesuits as a place where they held exclusive control over fertile fields. It is as large as the Dutch Island of Cura^oa, and said to be infinitely more fertile, though now desolate and unpro- ductive. Spread out before us we have a splendid view of the entire coast line of this southern shore, beyond which, stretching far away to the interior of the island, where they are met by the misty hills and mountains, lie those wondrous prairies or plains of which we have heard so much by their names of " Los Llanos " or savanas. These occupy the whole extent of the south-eastern part, beginning at the Ozama on the west, and terminating at the eastern end of the island. Far as the eye can reach stretch these vast plains, covered with long grass, with here and there clumps of trees, an occasional house or hut only to be seen ; while in the far distance is the continuation of the Cibao range of hills, which divides these plains in two. This is the country spoken so enthusiastically of by St Mery as being so well adapted to sugar estates ; and they 208 SANTO DOMINGO. remind me, by their extent and character, of the vast sugar plains of Cuba, which teem with luscious wealth. These are now occupied but by the roving herds of cattle and their attendant " hateros " or herdsmen. In all this district there are but two villages of any im- portance — the one, Higuey, being at the eastern end of the island, on the river Yuna, which empties into the Bay of Higuey. This town is renowned because of the " Virgin of Alta Gracia," to which superstition attributes astounding miracles. It was founded as far back as 1502, by John of Esquivel, and has always been a place of importance in this part of the island, though to-day, like all Dominican towns, it is a straggling, irregularly built place. The other town, Seybo, is situated at the foot of the mountains, nearer to the north and centre, upon the right bank of the river of the same name. It is not, however, the original town as founded by the Spaniards, but was settled a century ago by the farmers of the vicinity, who met there to hear mass. From the left bank of the Ozama to Cape Engano stretch these vast plains, comprising an extent of country near sixty leagues in length, containing 700 square leagues of land, of which more than 600 are in plains, comprising a body of the finest agricultural land in the world, and being watered by many rivers of various sizes. The products of this section are shipped at the romantic port of Romana on the coast, which is capable of being made into a good harbour for the extended agricultural products of this part. All the inhabitants are a fine class of people, free and independent, though of difi"erent shades of colour; the majority being the native brown or Creole white. I shall not forget the impression made upon me by the sight of some 600 of these people, who, hearing the United States Commissioners were at St Domingo city, gathered together ADDRESS ON ANNEXATION. 209 from every direction, and marching up from their homes many weary miles, gathered in the great arsenal square. Meeting m Arsenal Square With the flags of the United States and Dominica unfurled at their head. After they had rested from their long and hot march, they were drawn up in a hollow square by the colonel who had charge of them, and a priest (their padre, as they called him), who seemed to have great influence and weight with them, made them a stirring address, amid much enthusiasm, in which he said that they would now, perhaps, have an opportunity of joining a great nation, in which the people were identified with the cause of progress, of intelligence, and of industry ; it remained for themselves to say what they would be when that time came, as, if they were possessed of the above qualities of the people of that great nation, they would be equal to any one there. All were equal ; there was no distinction of colour, no slavery, no tyranny; nothing but freedom and protection from a o 210 SANTO DOMINGO. strong Government, which would bring peace and order into their beautiful island, and, with their consent, pro- tection to industry and security for property. For himself, he said, though he had been a Spaniard, Puerto Rican, Dominican, and always their padre (here the entire multitude with much respect uncovered), he yet hoped to call himself an American. Three cheers were then given for the Dominican banner, and then three more for the American, which were given with a will, when the men broke ranks and took to the shady side of the wall for rest. I seized hold of the colonel, who was a weather-beaten, swarthy -looking man of medium height, with grizzly moustache, who told me he was about fifty-six years of age, and that he had served in the army forty-six years of that time in various grades ; that Baez was his chief, to whom he was devoted, and he would go just where the President told him. If he (Baez) was for annexation, so was he, and he knew it would be a good thing for Dominica, else Baez wouldn't propose it. This was the most refreshing and frank explanation of views I had met with from any one. Alas ! for those earnest people ; they know little of " politics " as understood in the United States. I wandered among these men, asking them questions about their habits, hopes, and experiences ; and from all I heard but one sentiment — discontent at the present con- dition of affairs in the island, and hope for the future, that a connection with the United States would give them peace and security. Most of the people seemed to be poor and badly dressed but none lacked energy, and all expressed a desire for profitable work, some even asking if the prospect of a rail- road through their country would not afford means of gaining money. Although many of these men had marched that day CATTLE PASTURAGE. 211 some eighteen or twenty miles through mud and under a hot sun, they contented themselves with a frugal repast of a roasted plantain or bit of jerked beef, their beverage being the water carried in the water-bottles by their sides, many of them with their pet gamecocks carried on their shoulder or under their arm. Physically, these men are as fine a lot as I have ever seen, and while lacking even the elements of education, they are by no means deficient in natural intelligence. On this plain, which we have been describing, the cattle of hundreds of owners pasture in herds, being annually collected, counted, and the young branded. In the dry season it is customary to burn all the grass, the cattle taking to the timber, which is scattered at intervals in groups that look as if they had been planted by the hand of man, resembling great parks ; near them are springs of water or streams, in whose vicinity grow various shrubs, upon which the cattle browse. In these oToves the weary traveller is glad to hang his hammock and recuperate himself from the effects of the mid-day heat. A Weary Traveller. CHAPTER XII. ' A holy gathering, peaceful all ; No threat of war, no savage call For vengeance on an erring brother.' St Domingo City — The United States Commission — First Im- pression of the City — Visit to Baez and his Cabinet — Historical Notes of the City — Its Present Condition and Appearance — Trade and Future Prospects — Schools — The Mausoleum of Columbus — Dominican Amusements — San Carlos and the Exterior of the City — The Harbour as a Port — Well of Colum- bus — Mahogany Trade — Labourers. IT was the early morning of one of those perfect days with which one only meets in the tropics that we came in sight of the famous old city of St Domingo. It does not make much of an appearance as regards size and grandeur when viewed from the sea south of it ; yet, seen this beauti- ful day, with its gaudy-coloured roofs and ruined age-stained and picturesque towers, it presents a quaint and attractive sight, though a very different one from the splendid approach to her younger and richer sister — Havana. A queer old place it is, and as we come up to its harbour, formed by the mouth of the river Ozama emptying into the sea, we cannot help imagining ourselves back ages ago. As we look at the ancient walls and turrets that tower hig:h above our heads in passing through the narrow channel to the harbour, we almost fancy we can see the Spanish adventurer of the fifteenth century bringing his arquebus to "ready," as, dressed in the quaint costume of that time, he stands prepared to challenge us with his " Quien viva? " (who comes there). And, indeed, it requu-es no great stretch UNITED STATES COMMISSION. 213 of imagination to picture thus sucli scenes, for here is seen no hand of progress on these old hills, which Nature has changed more than man. Would that we might truly answer to the challenge of the sentry — Here comes the spirit of American institutions, to bring peace and good- will, progress, enlightenment, and improvement to this beau- tiful but impoverished, depopulated, and hard-used land. Here we found the members of the United States Com- mission busy in seeking that information they were sent out to obtain ; and never was a nation more earnestly and honestly served than by this body of experienced gentlemen, who, without hope of reward or profit, and at much in- convenience to themselves, earnestly and conscientiously availed themselves of every means and opportunity to seek the truth about the affairs of the island. In these efforts they were immensely assisted by the energy and intelligence of the correspondents of some of the most prominent newspapers of the United States. First impressions of such a place as St Domingo city can- The.Ozama— Ruius of Columbus House. not fail to be novel and strange. From the time of landing 214 SANTO DOMINGO. at the quay, entirely deserted of shipping, to the moment when, having secured quarters in the spacious saloons of a Government palace, the traveller has a chance to collect his thoughts, every moment brings a new, interesting, or funny sight. Gaily-coloured walls, with dirty negroes sunning them- selves against them; narrow streets, with solid-built houses, whose immense doors and spacious windows contrast forcibly with their limited height of only one or two stories ; broad- brimmed-hatted horsemen on small, compact, quick-moving horses, contrast with the dusky urchin who, naked of every- thing but a shirt, bestrides an immense straw-saddle on the back of a very diminutive donkey, — all serve, with hundreds of other noticeable things, to strike the stranger, and impress upon him the fact that he has exchanged his Saxon associa- tions of order, cleanliness, and precision, for the peculiarities of Spanish tropical life. Knots of men and women, mostly colom-ed, and busy in talk, are scattered about the quay or in the small open places called "plazas ; " odd-looking stores, with still more odd- looking assortments of goods, are entirely open to the gaze of the passer-by ; while in the market-place are noticed the same peculiarities observed at Puerto Plata, only on a more extended scale. Go where one will, however, every one is cheerful, polite, and communicative, while the dusky " fair ones " presiding over piles of strange, unknown tropical pro- ductions, are merry, while obliging even in giving information. Such are the sights that to-day first greet the traveller in the city that at one time was famous for its magnificence. The day after my arrival I called at the palace to pay my respects to the authorities and present my letters of in- troduction. I was received by Mr Delmonte in the most cordial manner, and presented to President Baez, the Secretary of State, Mr Gautier, being present. They were all extremely affable and kind, and had rather a practical joke, though of a pleasant nature, at my expense ; for on PRESIDENT BAEZ. 215 my happening to let drop a Spanish word, the President laughed and said — " I must talk to them all in Spanish, as it was too hard work for him to talk English, and Mr Gautier did not understand it, and therefore we should get on finely as one family." We had some pleasant words together, and I left feeling that my first had heen anything but a formal call. President Baez is a courtly, pleasant man, of medium height and agreeable appearance. He is just fifty-seven years of age, and would never be taken for other than a Spaniard were it not that his hair, as he turns his head, shows just a little of the character of the hair of the African. He speaks French aswellas he does Spanish, but English only tolerably well. He seems perfectly frank. With the easy air and manner of a thorough man of the world, he impresses me as a perfectly upright man, and that seems to be generally the impression made. The accompanying portrait of him is a very good one, though somewhat younger than he now appears. The por- traits circulated representing him as a black man are utterly false. Mr Gautier, the Secretary of State, is a man of about forty years of age, rather bald, with thin black hair, small, pierc- ing black eyes set well in his head, and with a noble brow 216 SANTO DO MI EGO. that bespeaks intellect. He is rather reticent ; but, as he speaks no English, it may be for that reason, interpreters being awkward mediums. I found him conversing in Spanish agreeable, but precise in his expression, as though he weighed carefully each word, and his entire head re- sembles somewhat the first Napoleon as depicted in pictures. Minister Delmonte, who has charge of the public instruc- tion and education, is a medium-sized, spare man, with a quick, nervous action, speaking English very well. He is very cordial in his manner, and seems honest and straight- forward. In fact, as far as I have seen Baez and his Cabinet, judging from several interviews I had with them, my impressions are extremely favourable, and though pre- pared by articles in the newspapers of the United States to take a rather prejudiced view of some of these gentlemen, I confess I was entirely converted to the opinion, held even by the enemies of President Baez, that he is a remarkably talented man, earnest for the welfare of his people and country. St Domingo city, the oldest existing settlement in the New World, humble as it is to-day, is yet a place of great interest to the antiquarian or artistic traveller. Its early history is enveloped in a cloud of romance, but from which have been sifted the following facts. When the-Spaniards -Were joriginallyisettled at the town of Isabella on the north coast, one of their nTi mber ^_Migu_ej. Diaz, havingardifficulty with a servant of Don Bartholomew Columbus^stebbed him, as he thought, fo deathj_andTear^ ing_the consequences of his act, fled into the woo^s,_an^ finally wandered to the south si5e oftheJsland,where, enter- ing the domain, on the banks of the Ozama, of one of the native princesses, the latter eventually became enamoured of her Spanish guest, and it is even said they were^nally married. Diaz appears to have become somewhat tired of this princess after a while, and longed for the presence of his ST DOMINGO CITY. 217 countrymen ; and his wife, noticing hig melancholy, and hoping to make him better satisfied, proposed to him to bring his companions to that region, telling him also, as an inducement, of the gold to be found in the Ticinity of the river Jaina. Diaz, big with this news, appears to have sought the vicinity of Isabella, and while loitering about there, learned that the man whom he supposed dead was still alive ; and thus feeling it safe to return, entered the town and made known to Don Bartholomew Columbus the news of the gold mines of the Jaina. Bartholomew immediately took steps to verify this fact, and finding it true, received orders from his brother the Admiral to found a town in the vicinity. The spot selected was on the high and commanding bluff on the left bank of the river Ozama ; and here, in 1494, August the 4th, was founded the new town, to which was given at first the name of New Isabella, but which was after- wards exchanged for that of St Domingo, in honour, as some writers assert, of the day (Sunday) on which the town was first established, and, as others again assert, in honour of the father of Columbus, who was called Domingo. To this place, in 1496, all the inhabitants of the original town of Isabella removed, and it soon became the capital town of the island. Columbus himself seems to have visited it for the first time on his return from Spain in August 1498, two years after its foundation. Here the town remained, the houses principally being constructed of wood, until 1502, when Ovando came out as Governor to succeed Bobadilla. The fearful hurricane foretold by Columbus was the cause of its removal to the other side, for in that storm the place was entirely destroyed, and Ovando then determined to change its location to the other or right side of the river. This appears to have been a great mistake, and Charlevoix says it was only done because there were already there the habitations of some Spaniards ; and it is undoubtedly lower 218 SANTO BO MINGO. than the other bank, and is frequently enveloped in the vapours of the river, which are created by the sun driving them before him — no small thing in a humid country. In addition to this, the opportunity was lost of alwaj's having a supply of fresh water, while in the new city the people had to rely upon their cisterns, because the water of the Ozama is brackish many leagues from its mouth. The new town made rapid progress from the fact that a number of the inhabitants built up houses on speculation, which drew to the place many of those arriving from Spain en route to Mexico, who, finding such a substantial well- built city, settled down there. The Governor Ovando intended to bring the water of the river Jaina, nine miles ofi", into the town, and a part of the aqueduct was even constructed, a slab in the principal square still remaining to show where there was to be a fountain. Oviedo, the historian of the time, in describing St Domingo says, " that as touching the buildings, there is no city in Spain, not even Barcelona, so much to be pre- ferred as San Domingo. The houses for the most part are of stone — the situation is much better than Barcelona, by reason that the streets are much larger and wider, and with- out comparison straighter and more direct, being laid out with cord, compass, and measure. In the midst of the city is the fortress and castle, and such houses so fair and large that they may well receive any lord or noble of Spain with his train and family, and especially is this true of that of Don Diego Columbus." Although, from that day to this, the city has experienced many changes and reverses, its general plan is much the same, and many of the old landmarks are still standing. Some of the buildings in the vicinity of the Cathedral having a very odd and venerable appearance. The form of the city is that of a trapezium or quad- rilateral figure, whose four sides are neither equal nor PLAN OF CITY. 219 parallel, being about 1100 yards long on the east side to- wards the Ozama, nearly 1000 yards on the south side 1, 2. Barracks. 3. Powder magaaine. 4. Signal tower- 6. Government palace. &-16. Churches. ST DOMINGO CITY. 10. Ruined monastery (San Francisco). 17. General hospital. 18. Cathedral. 22. Slaughter-house. 24-29. Gates. bordering to the sea, and 1900 on the west side, and north ^ toward San Carlos. The circumference of the town is about 4500 yards, the main street running from the principal square to the land -gate or Puerta del Conde. The very walls of the east side of the city are washed by the Ozama, while on the south, the shore ends abruptly in bold rocky cliffs, against which the surf violently dashes ; upon the edge of this cliff extends an old useless parapet. 220 SANTO DOMINGO. inside of wliicli is a wide ample space originally used as the " Paseo" or promenade of the townspeople, but which now, overgrown with grass, appears silent and neglected enough. The outskirts of the city are composed of rather un- Old Fart of St Domingo. attractive frame or semi-clay huts, roofed with palm or straw ; while in the interior of the town the houses are, many of them, solid and imposing. They are built in the old Spanish fashion, usually of one story in height, seldom over two. A wide entrance with immense folding doors opens into the hall, which conducts into the patio or court- yard, around which are the quarters and offices. The same lack of glass in the windows, and the use of iron bars, seen in Cuba, are universal here ; while the quietness of many of the old streets in the upper part of the town reminds one of a city of sleepers. In the streets leading up from the wharf, and in the vicinity of the market-place, more life is seen, and the architecture of the stores and houses, if not so imposing, is more modern. The whole city seems to be built upon a solid limestone WATUB SUPPLY. 221 formation, sloping somewhat in the direction of the river, which makes its drainage easy, but appears to limit the supply of water. This is obtained principally from cisterns, that are placed upon the flat roofs, and to which the rain water is conducted by the pipes from the different roofs. The walls of the older houses are very solidly constructed either of stone or the material known as mamposteria, a mode of architecture some- what similar to that of Cuba. The method of making these walls is simple and econo- mical. The glutinous earth of the vicinity is taken and mixed with lime, and some- times, as in Cuba, with powdered stone ; frames of planks are then made in the de- sired form, and these are filled with layers of this composition, sand and lime being added. The whole is then moistened with water, well pounded and kneaded, and Uusine&s Street allowed to dry, when the mould being withdrawn, leaves a fLi;m solid wall, which, on exposure to the air, becomes hard as stone. Even the walls of the city are built in this way. With the exception of the old churches, there are few really imposing buUdings in the city, the government buildings, except for their solidity of construction, having 222 SANTO DOMINGO. nothing striking about them, though their style of archi- tecture, peculiar to Spanish America, strikes the novice at first as somewhat grand, from the balconied piazzas sup- ported on pillars of solid construction. The general business of the city appears very limited indeed, and there are only one or two really large and ex- tensive stores with general assortments of goods. But there is always a certain amount of amusement to be- obtained by the stranger in trading among these old Spanish towns. The perfectly easy, leisurely way in which negotiations are conducted, the amount of chaff and compliments exchanged even in the most ordinary pur- chase, is somewhat astonishing to people of the Anglo- Saxon race ; and it becomes, after a while, quite a pleasant amusement to have a seller name some ridiculous price for an article, just to see to how much one can finally reduce it. In fact, it is a question if St Domingo city, under any circumstances, will ever become a great business place, in its present locality at least. The opposite bank is undoubt- edly a more desirable location for a modern town in every respect ; besides which, there are so many places in other parts of the island having greater advantages, that the general commerce of the island will hardly seek this as its port, however large its local trade may become. Even its chance to be the capital of the island will, I think, be disputed by the interior town of Santiago, which, situated in the centre of the island, in the midst of a superb agricultural country, with ample water communication to every part, will have, with the assistance of the railroad, the controlling power in the island, becoming almost a second Chicago. The principal trade of St Domingo city is confined to the shipping of mahogany, dye, and cabinet woods, which are brought down from the interior, as well as the hides from the cattle in the Seybo district, but this entire trade is limited in amount. VILLAGE SCHOOL. 223 On the opposite side of the river the shore is well adapted for the erection of wharves for a large city, there being there a natural levee. On the hills above is a little village known as Pajarito (little bird), containing a few inhabitants only. I was much amused, however, while strolling through the place, by a visit to the village school, which was simply a thatched hut with earthen floor, where I found a number of children, of both sexes and of all colours, seated on stools around the room. Between each pupil I was astonished to find a gamecock attached to a sort of perch ; and on my asking the children for an explanation, they said, " Oh ! they belong to the schoolmaster, who fights them on Sunday." This func- tionary was out, but I afterwards met him, and found him A Dominican School. to be an intelligent coloured man, highly amused at my surprise at such new means of education, he explaining by a shrug of the shoulders and the remark, " Cosa Dominicana." On Sunday we went to the grand Cathedral to hear the 224 SANTO DOMINGO. morning service, high mass being performed by the Vicar- General ; and though the worshippers were not large in numbers, they comprised all classes and colours, the female sex being predominant. The chanting of the priests was accompanied by an orchestra, principally stringed, and The Mausoleum of Columbus. small in number, that was placed in the choir, which is constructed in the centre of the church, a mulatto with strong nasal accent acting as leader of the vocalists. The Cathedral, the most interesting building in St Do- mingo, is in its interior a grand old church, with pillars and arches and crypts and altars innumerable ; and as we view its vast extent we can readily believe the accounts of the various historians, who give such glowing relations of its splendours in ancient days. Its exterior bears the marks of its great antiquity upon its form, not only in the weather- stained walls, but in the quaint architecture. This old church was particularly interesting to me as MAUSOLEUM OF COLUMBUS. 225 having visited the last resting-place of Columbus in the Cathedral at Havana, I had now the opportunity of seeing his first mausoleum in the New World ; for it was here that his remains were brought from Spain, as well as those of his brother Don Bartholomew. It seems extremely curious, and well illustrates the lethargy and decay of Spain, that, in 1783, when Moreau St Mery, a Frenchman, visited the city, it was a matter of absolute doubt and uncertainty as to the resting-place of these remains ; and it was only through his exertions they were positively found to be there, in a leaden coffin, which had been walled up in the Cathedral ; and even then it was not ascertained to a certainty in which cofiin were the bones of Columbus himself. Another one was found at the same time, containing those of his brother Bartholomew. This edifice stands facing the public square, and is built of solid stone, Gothic in architecture, and has a nave and two wings. It was begun in 1512 and finished in 1540, being constructed after the model of a church in Rome ; and has withstood the shocks of all earthquakes — a proof either of the strength of its walls, or else the weakness of the shocks of the earthquakes, that once or twice in two or three hundred years have visited this island. ^ The church is entered by three large doorways and two porticoes, these being the most striking part of the building, massive and imposing in appearance, and richly carved originally, although now worn with age. To mount upon the roof, one ascends by a spiral staircase built of stone, and from the roof a good view of the city is obtained ; and it was upon this that cannon had been mounted in defence of the town, there being even a bomb- shell still remaining in its wall, fired by the English when attacking the French in possession of the city in 1 809. The city at one time possessed a large number of church organisations, being, as it was then, the principal arch- bishopric of the New World. When they were all in full p 226 SANTO DOMINGO. operation, there were two or three monasteries, two nun- neries, several hospitals, and a number of parochial or Cathedral Door. minor churches. All, or most of them, are now either extinct or gone to such decay as is sad to witness. Many of these institutions, but particularly the Cathedral, were rich in gold and silver ornaments and decorations, but of which they have been despoiled at different times, prin- cipally, however, during the occupation of the French. Desiring to get information about religious and educa- tional matters, we called upon the Vicar- G-eneral, and had a very pleasant interview with him. We found him in one of his rooms, close by the Grand Cathedral, and in its court- yard, in fact. He is a short, stout, full-made man, with full black beard and moustache, sparkling black eyes, and full round head and face. As he sat before me I could not help thinking he was the very picture of a jolly Domini- can friar, particularly as the close-fitting skull-cap, with a funny little button on top, gave him a very comical appear- ance. He informed me he had only lived here a year ; that there was a seminary, primary school, and college, all under SEMINARY AND COLLEGE. 227 the care of the Church. The schools contained altogether some three hundred pupils. In the college there is a night- school for the poorer class, who are amhitious of knowledge, and of whom a certain number are gratuitously instructed at the expense of the Town Council; while others are admitted, that can afford it, at the rate of one dollar per month. Our conversation with the Vicar- General was very full and entertaining, and his views of annexation very frank. I asked him how he liked the idea of it. He replied, " At present there is only one Church here, and that is the Roman Catholic ; hut if annexation comes, there will be others." "Yes," I replied; "but then you must remember that you will have ample toleration for your Church." He laughed cynically as he said, " But I have to tolerate others too." I answered, " You have only your own Church, with a very small number of members ; in the United States your Church is a very powerful one, and has a great many members ; don't you, therefore, suppose that your numbers will be increased, and your church revenues improved by annexation ? " " Frankly, senor," said he, " it really don't make much difference with me either one way or the other. I like Rome better than I do here; it is sometimes so hot for me in summer ; but I tell my people, when they ask me about it, they must remember that they cannot do with the United States as they did with Spain ; once annexed they cannot get out." In the building occupied as the seminary there are various classes under instruction by brothers of the Church, and some few refugee Cubans acting as instructors. A school of medicine is established, and the principles of physiology and medicine taught ; lectures being given, while we were present, upon osteology, illustrated by the human skeleton. 228 SANTO DOMINGO. We were exceedingly charmed with our visit through the seminary, which we made after seeing the Vicar-General ; for though most of the classes were limited in numbers of pupils, we were treated with a courtesy that seems to be an instinct with these people and their children. In every case, on entering the room, the pupils, as well as their instructors, immediately arose, the latter coming forward, and in the kindest manner volunteering all the information we wanted. What a change, however, from those early days in the history of the city, when its celebrated university gave pre-eminence to its citizens over those of all the towns of the New World, by the liberal education extended them, the renown of which became so great, that the city itself received the name of the " Athens of the New World ! " Another old landmark of the dead past of this historic town is the building known as the " Castle of Columbus," being the house built upon the margin of the west bank of the river by Diego Columbus, the son of the Admiral, while the old town of St Domingo was still upon the eastern side of the river. It was built very solidly of stone, and sur- rounded by an enclosure to protect him from the attacks of Indians. Afterwards, when the town was removed to the other bank, the house was completed, the ramparts of the town running down to it, and one of the gates immediately under it receiving the name which it bears to-day from the hotlse of Colon. It has now gone to decay and ruin; but yet makes a picturesque and interesting point for the visitor to St Domingo city, — the illustration in a previous pace showing it in a better state of preservation than it is to- day. As we desired to satisfy our curiosity with a view of the Dominican cockpit, we paid a visit there in the early after- noon. The place was crowded, the pit being only a small place or circle of about fifty feet radius, much humbler than those of its Cuban neighbour. We mounted up to TEE GARNI7AL. 229 the top seat, by means of a ladder, for a standing place; but on Damion Baez, the brother of the President, per- ceiving us, he very kindly offered us seats below in the select part ; but, as we only wished to stay a few moments, we declined his offer. A cockfight seems to be the same all the world over as it is here, in Cuba, or " in Jersey." Much as we may disapprove of such exhibitions, particularly where repre- sentatives of the Government are present as patrons, I must confess I would rather " take my chance " with these people in their cockfights than with the roughs at a dog- fight in New York city, or a prize-fight in the ring ; for I hold that none of these exhibitions represent truly "the people " of any of the places in which they may take place ; and I am free to say that I have heard the best of Cubans, as well as Dominicans, speak of the cockpit with abhor- rence, and hope for its abolition. The customs of a people, however, are not to be changed in a day, whatever time may effect. We saw but one fight, and then left, our interest being soon over, as our curiosity was gratified, and the noise of the audience, as they in their excitement screamed out their bets, was deafening. This being the first day of the carnival, the streets all the afternoon were filled with maskers and mummers, who at this season have much liberty allowed them ; but with it all, in the two or three days to which this privilege extends, we heard of no disorderly conduct whatever. It was in strong contrast, as we turned from one of these processions of merrymakers, to meet another making its way along the plaza ; but it was a procession of a very different order — a funeral, which, with its four-wheeled canopy trimmed with white, and drawn by one horse, was carrying to its last resting-place the remains of an aged citizen, whose friends on foot formed the funeral cortege. In either case, very, very humble, and so different from the rich displays made in the great city of Havana, of which St Domingo may, in 230 SANTO DOMINGO. fact, be said to be a very small and cheap edition — inferior in every respect except in its natural advantages. Long years of adversity and revolution have impoverished the country, killing all enterprise, deadening every energy of its people, and destroying every sense of security, so that if the capitalist should feel tempted by the numerous rich openings offered by the natural advantages of the country, he is deterred by the lack of confidence in the Government's power to resist the cabals and attempts of a lot of political vagabonds, who, seeing only in turmoil and trouble a chance for themselves to rob and appropriate, are ready on the slightest pretext to take up arms. Thus there being no commerce of any moment, and little production, the revenues of the Government are limited, and are not sufficient to meet the expenses. No improvements take place ; communication by land from one town to another is at times utterly impossible, and only at intervals by mule and horse-back. The result is, that every class is poor, and feeling this, a sense of shyness is manifested to strangers by the better class not natural to their desires or traditions. Although there is much talk about the unhealthiness, I cannot find that St Domingo city is ever anything but healthy; for, from the old historians down, every writer speaks of its healthfulness. I do know that since we have been here there have been but two funerals — one of them being the above ; in fact, they have a joke here, saying " People die only of old age." Certain it is that during our stay here the climate has been delightful, the nights being fresh and cool ; and I am told there is no change in the summers, except that the days are a little hotter. Before day throughout the year a blanket is required in sleeping. Our thermometer since we have been here at the palace has hardly varied a degree each morning, showing an even temperature each day at five o'clock a.m. of 64", while at mid-day it has not gone over 86°. RESIDENCE FOR INVALIDS. 231 I was constantly reminded of the pure air of Trinidad de Cuba, said to be the healthiest place in that island ; and though St Domingo city is not situated upon a high mountain, as is Trinidad, it yet seems quite as cool and salu- brious, owing to the fresh breezes from the hills prevail- ing at night, while those from the sea prevail during the day. For a winter's residence for invalids, this city could be made a very attractive place, and would offer a fine field to enterprising hotel-keepers to establish houses, either in or out of the city, for the accommodation of those desirous of escaping northern winters. At present there is no hotel worthy of that name ; but the stray traveller will be well taken care of by inquiring for " Monsieur Auguste." Biding up over the hills outside of the town, we get fine views of the harbour, which is comparatively small, being formed by the confluence of the Isabella and Ozama rivers, which by their junction form a Y. Each of these rivers receives in its course the tribute of many others of less consequence, and of a yery great number of streams and ravines, brooks and springs. Both of them take their rise in the mountains lying to the north-west of the city, and meet about three miles above it. The anchorage in the port itself is deep enough for vessels of any size, and it is a perfect landlocked harbour, the banks in some places being as high as twenty feet. The river for nearly three miles is about twenty-four feet deep, with a bottom of soft mud or sand. The present obstacle to it as a port arises from the fact that at the entrance there is a rock which prevents vessels drawing more than eighteen feet of water from entering; but this could easily be removed by blasting. In the time of the floods, some idea may be formed of the volume of water coming down the Ozama from the fact that the sea, at some distance from the river's mouth, is entirely discoloured by its muddy waters. As we sit upon the hill looking down upon the city, it 232 SANTO DOMINGO. has a strange appearance, with its red-coloured roofs and age-stained walls, those of the old Franciscan monastery, covered with vines and moss, being prominent in the fore- ground, just behind the bastioned angles of the northern walls. Taking a bridle-path, we rode almost around the city, parallel with the walls, which are, in fact, as old as they look, having been erected as far back as 1506 by Nicholas Ovando, of whom such great deeds are told in the ancient Spanish chronicles. These walls are about eight feet thick and ten feet high, the revetment being of hewn stone, and the scarp cut in the solid rock. There is no Old Franciscan Monastery. glacis, while the bastions are very small, except those at the four angles, which are larger; the one at the south-west angle, known as La Forsza, built by Ovando, being in good ' preservation, though now beside it is the city shambles. Above the city, on the hill, stands the old town of San Carlos, as old as St Domingo itself, being perhaps better known to the readers of Irving as Heignes. The oround however, is the only antique portion of the place ; for the WELL OF G0LUMBU8. 233 houses are all modern, built of wood, of generally the most humble description, and the only striking object is the ubiquitous church that crowns the eminence. There used to be an immense amount of ordnance at St Domingo city, but most of it was carried away by the English in payment of assistance rendered by them to the Spaniards against the French. As a fortified city it would seem to be a failure, for the hill San Carlos commands it ; and unless this place was fortified with advanced works in connection, no amount of money expended on its walls would prevent the city from being rendered untenable. This was practically illustrated by General Carmichael, when he took the city with his troops upon this hill without firing a shot. Continuing our ride, we reached the Well of Columbus, on the left bank of the Ozama, deriving its name from the reputed fact that Bartholomew Columbus himself is said to have built this well. At all events, it is a very old structure of stone, with a quay or wharf parapeted of the same material upon the river, while standing against the hill-side is a double-arched structure, in the centre of which is the well or cistern, quite deep, and having in it delicious pure water, of which many of the vessels avail themselves. Upon the quays, between the well and the city walls, we found large quantities of the woods of the country, such as lignum, fustic, ebony, iron-wood, and mahogany, together with dye woods, being weighed in large scales prepara- tory to shipment ; and it makes quite a busy and strange scene, with the background of wooden booths of the roughest description, where the workmen regale themselves with " san cocho " (a stew), bad rum, cakes, &c., the end of the quay being devoted to the sale (wholesale) of fruits and vegetables. The workmen or labourers seem to work steadily and earnestly enough, even in the hot sun, to set at rest the 234 SANTO DOMINGO. doubt whether these people will work even if they are paid ; for here, where their wages are regularly paid by foreign houses, there is no trouble in getting labour. To these landings come the country people from far up the river Ozama, in their strange boats, a canoe dug out of huge trees, which, propelled by its one man occupant, probably comes forty or fifty miles to bring a couple of hundred plantains, not worth perhaps more than thirty or forty cents a hundred ; or perhaps the " canotero " brings down a more valuable freight, in the shape of two or three bits of mahogany, the average size of which is about three feet long by two square, the value of each piece not exceeding $8 to $10 here. CHAPTER XIII. ' The plantain and banana's luscious fruit In circled clusters load the curling shoot ; With golden bloom the nectared orange glows ; With spicy custard soft anana flows ; The juicy melon fills its netted mould ; And the crowned pine perfumes with fragrant gold.' Vicinity of St Domingo City — Natural Caves — The Caves of Santanna — The Boundary Line — Beata and Alta Vela Islands — Neybo — Salt Mines — Sugar Plantations — Azua — Ocoa Bay. TT was with a good deal of amusement to ourselves, and -^ gratification to a group of natives looking on, that a party of us gathered together one fine morning, prepared for a ride through the country lying in the vicinity of the city. Our horses had been gathered from various sources, though none of them, with their original equipments and their freely-costumed riders, would have passed a '' dress parade." Two or three of us particularly presented a ludicrous appearance, — a robust western major insisting upon taking the smallest horse, while the doctor was more particular about the size of his saddle than the quality of his mount, the others being selected pretty much at hap- hazard. Much to our gratification, however, our equines proved better in quality than in appearance, for size is no criterion of goodness in a St Domingo horse, many of those of the medium size being wonderfully endowed with 236 SANTO DOMINGO. powers of endurance and rapidity of movement, the gait being similar to that of the Cuban horses, a sort of rack or amble. The land to the west and north of the city is rather rough and rocky, but after that it changes in character, and becomes very pretty, though for some distance out the country is somewhat level, and the soil of a rather reddish clay. In old times the vicinity of the city was noted -for the beauty of its gardens and the charms of the places of "recreo," or country-houses, which most of the wealthy citizens possessed ; but to-day these have all disappeared, and one only meets with the ordinary " finca " or truck garden or farm, though along the sea-coast some pretty places have been established. Strange to say, however, in all St Domingo, where nature is so prolific in every fern and fruit and flower, man seems to care very little about its cultivated beauties, and it is the rarest thing to find even an humble attempt at a flower- garden, be it in town or country. The ex- planation for this in- variably given me hy the people, on my ask- ing why they did not have them, was, " What is the use? just as soon as we had one made it would be destroyed in another revolution." Most of the Antilles are noted for their caves or sub- S^^v^ St Domingo Ferns. CAVES OF SANTANNA. 237 terranean formations found in them; and St Domingo shares largely in this peculiarity, for they are to be met with in every part of the island. On the east bank of the Ozama, some two miles distant from the village, there is a curious cave known as a " Cueva de Agua " or water-cave, where there is to be seen a natural lake formed in a rocky cavern, in which are many stalagmites of curious form. The most noted of these caves, however, are those of Santanna, reputed to be one of the places of resort for the aborigines of the island, who came here to worship their zemes or gods. To this cave our party directed its way, after having made the circuit of the town; and passing out by the western gate, and in front of the large cemetery, which lies bare and desolate just outside the city walls, we soon reached the thick scrub-covered rolling plain beyond the city, till, striking a bridle-path directly through the woods, we were protected from the sun by the dense foliage, which, meeting just above our heads, formed in many places a natural arch, under whose protecting shades we seemed as though shut out from the world, while turns in the path gave us lovely vistas of palms, and cocoas, and graceful flowing vines, and blossoming bush, that were charming; while the aroma and fragrance of the vegetation, on which still clung the morning dew, was especially delicious. Here, too, we met with the hedge of maya, upon which was now ripe the small yellow fruit, which, eaten sparingly, acts as a gentle purgative. At one of the houses, after we had ridden some distance, we picked up our guide, a negro boy, who, with only a pair of pants on, was drawing water, his back exposed in all its nakedness to the hot sun, which he did not seem to mind. Coming to a high fence, which we could neither go over nor let down, we actually took the difficulty by the horns; that is, we rode our spirited little horses, after a small 238 SANTO DOMINGO. fight, slap through the hedge of the prickly maya, without their heing the least the worse for it. And then we descended a narrow road through green fields to a shaded path that descends suddenly to the Entrance to Cave. entrance of the cave, which is composed of a double arch- way, the division being formed by grotesquely -shaped pillars of corallaceous rock, one of the arches permitting ingress of mounted visitors. Around these grew the thick tropical vegetation, the parasitical plants pendant from the branches of the trees giving an exceedingly graceful appearance to the entrance. Being mounted on the largest horse of the party, I found it necessary now and then to stoop in my saddle in FTtp ROCKY AMPHITHEATRES. 239 order to prevent knocking my head against the roof, and I calculated from this that the cave was in its lowest point, from roof to floor, some seven or eight feet high. This entrance forms a sort of double saloon, passing through which we came into a rocky amphitheatre of per- haps three hundred feet or more in diameter. The sight was indeed a strange one, the amphitheatre having all the appearance of having been at one time a lake, the walls of which were formed of the same peculiar rock, massed together in grotesque strata and strange forms, at the base of which, round the entire circle, were the apertures known as the caves ; above, the clear blue sky, unusually brilliant in colour, while upon the upper edge of the amphitheatre was the luxuriant vegetation of this island, giving grace and beauty in every conceivable form and colour to the scene ; the graceful tendrils of the vines entwining themselves around the trunks of the towering trees, whose thick and umbrageous foliage served to throw a tempered light into the cavity, the open floor of which was covered with masses of rock of varied form, thrown together in wild confusion. The mosses, and ferns, and herbage, that crept and grew over and in every crevice, added to the wild, strange, and beautiful scene. What gave a still more interesting, and, if I may so express it, weird appearance to the amphitheatre, were the long, innumerable roots of the trees upon the verge of the rocks, which looked exactly as though they had originally taken root in the earth, which, having after- wards been washed away, left these same roots gathered together in bundles of from ten to thirty in number each, which, growing downwards, had finally taken root in the substrata, looking, as they hung relieved against the gloomy background of the caves, like so many woody pillars. We entered several of these caves, and discerned naught 240 SANTO DOMINGO. but gloom and owls, whicli our feeble candles served barely to disturb. While these caves are extremely interesting as showing the freaks of nature, they have neither the brilliancy of the crystal caves of Bellamar in Cuba, nor yet the grandeur and extent of our Mammoth Cave in Ken- tucky. Yet withal there is such a weird look about the shapes of the pillars and the forms of the walls in their different degrees of obscurity, that it makes one expect to see appear some strangely-formed demon or wild-looking hermit, inquiring by what right his solitude is disturbed by beings from a far-away western world. The fact that some idols have been found in these caves is cited as authority for their having been used by the natives either as a place of worship or burial; for when a cacique died, his people opened and dried him by the fire, that he might be preserved entire. The body was then laid in some cave, together with his arms, and frequently his favourite wife attended him. This cave, it is said, was thus used. After leaving the caves, we made a considerable detour, in order to get an idea of the agricultural interests of this part of the island ; but we found comparatively little reward, for the amount of products are limited to the plantain, some garden vegetables, with a small amount of tobacco. A tropical shower com- ing on, we sought shelter under one of the most superb Tamarind. ^^.^^^ j j^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^ noble tamarind, of immense size, whose foliage, growing somewhat like that of the horse-chestnut, was so dense that we were perfectly protected from the downpour of AGRICULTURAL LANDS. 241 rain. These trees alwaj'-s remind me of our locust-trees, though so much larger, and the grouping of the leaves with its fruit in the branches forms a most graceful natural feature. It always seems to me that nature in St Domingo stands a constant reproach to the inhabitants for their supineness and indifference to improving their condition. For one is constantly led to think what might be accom- plished by man's energy in a country where nature does so much. From St Domingo city westward to the Haytian border there is not a single town of any importance, though there are several villages of considerable size scattered at in- tervals throughout a section of country comprising some of the finest agricultural lands in the world, capable of supporting a large and industrious population, and where the climate is as salubrious as in that of any other part of the globe. The roads, like those in the rest of the island, are hardly worthy of the name ; but there is a fair bit of road from St Domingo city to the river Jaina in the west, available in good, weather for carts, though pack animals are generally used— the traveller invariably going on horseback. Moreau St Mery, who seems to have personally and most thoroughly examined all this district of country from St Domingo city to the Haytian line (at the time of his visit, 1784, in possession of the Spaniards), speaks in the highest praise of the character of the soil, the salubrity of the cli- mate, the abundance of wood and water, and the advantages of numerous harbours on the coast. Having determined to penetrate to the interior of the island and the north-west, and being informed the southern side was similar, in most respects, to those parts of the north which I proposed to visit, I was forced to decline the services of one of the natives of this section of the country, who, offered himself as guide, with a strongly written Q 242 SANTO DOMINGO. recommendation. Here it is, as also the portrait of the individual, as characteristic of his class, in case any future traveller should need his help : — " Manuel Seybano knows all the country about the upper Nigua and Nizao ; one of the best mountaineers I ever saw — when he is sober — ^and good as a circus when he is drunk — a type of man rarely found out of the backwoods ; a noted pig- hunter, and if the pigs are not wild, 'poco importe,' if he does not get caught himself; spends about half his time in the woods, and the other half in the cala- boose for making mistakes be- tween wild and tame pigs {i.e., those with or without ear- marks)." As St Mery's notes have been verified by later authorities and the personal investigations of members of the United States Commission, it may not be amiss to give here a general account of the principal points of this section. Beyond the province of St Domingo on the west, beginning at the Ocoa river, and extending to the boundary line, lies the famous district of Azua, comprising within its limits the communes of Azua Neyba, Barahona, San Juan, Las Matas, Banica, &c. most of which lie in the section marked in the map as the debatable ground, and comprising some of the finest parts of the island, but now in a disorganised state from the con- stant irruptions of the Haytian borderers united with some Manuel Seybano, BAHORUGO MOUNTAINS. 243 refugee Dominicans, who, banded together under General Cabral, a former Dominican leader, keep the country to the west of Azua in a state of suspense similar to that of our Indian frontier. The western border of the Dominican territory begins, as will be seen on looking at the map, on the south bank of the river Perdenales (Flint river), flowing at the west side of the high mountain range known by its Indian appellation of Bahoruco. These mountains, rising majestically from the Dominican lines, face with a gentle slope the sea nearly to the south- west, opposite to the shore of which is the small island of Beata. Valverde says that these mountains are extremely fertile, and possess a lovely climate ; and quotes as an illus- tration that a Spanish officer, being up there in pursuit of fugitives, had tents erected for his party, which he covered with cabbage-leaves, so large was their growth. This situation, where everything seems to bespeak mines of gold, and where gold-sand is found in the water, was a great resort for the Spanish and French negroes, where they formed themselves into an unconquerable body, and committed depredations on the surrounding country. All along this shore going east are many coves, where vessels of moderate size may enter, and particularly Eagle's Cove, where it is said ships may approach near enough to be fastened ashore. Here is met the most southern point of the island. Cape Beata, and opposite it lies the little island of the same name, famous in times past as the great resort of French privateers, they being eventually driven from thence by Admiral Cowley. Columbus saw this island in 1498, and took shelter in its passage from a storm in 1504. Some six miles to the south-west of Beata is the now famous island of Alta Vela (Big-sail), so called by Columbus in 1494, on account of its height and form, which at a 244 SANTO BOMINQO. distance resembles a vessel under full sail. The land on the island rises to the centre, and is covered with wood ; but it has more lately been occupied as a guano-island, with the expectation of procuring large quantities of that fertiliser. An engineer, however, on board the steamer, whose services had been engaged there, informed me that as yet the quantity of guano was very small, it having only been found in pockets in the rock, and that his services were engaged to run the engines in the new occu- pation of salt-making. Continuing north from Cape Beata, the first bay of im- portance is Neyba, into which empties the river of the same name, that has its source in the above-named mountain, and which waters a fine extent of country. That looking west was all formerly occupied by the Maroons or runawaj'' negroes, being originally the famous province of Xaragua. In the early days of the conquest these slopes were de- voted to the cultivation of sugar ; and St Mery, a practical planter, computes that in the two plains adjacent to this coast there could be established over 250 sugar plantations capable of employing in his time over 50,000 negroes ; while in the plain of Neyba, watered by that river, 150 more plantations could be profitably established. The river Neyba having several mouths, that run through low grounds or marshes, the Bay of Neyba is not so good a port for this section as the Barahona, a little to the south ; but this is capable of being made into a good harbour, and it is said Toussaint had commenced to establish there an important town when the arrival of the French put an end to his plans. All the country lying to the east of the curious lake called Enriquello is known generally by the name of the Plain of Neyba, which is pretty generally fertile. Near the little town of the same name is situated the famous mine or rock of crystal salt, which is generally used by the people in that vicinity for cm-ing their provisions. The COMMUNE OF AZUA. 245 salt is said to have the peculiarity of becoming much heavier on being exposed to the air ; and it is said that the natural reproduction of this mineral is so rapid that quite a large hollow will be filled up again in the course of the J' ear. To the north, on the Neyba, lies the fairy valley of St John, or San Juan, noted for its great fertility in all time and the salubrity of its climate, while more lately it has been the seat of Cabral's raids. In old times the whole of this district comprised the province of Maguana, under the control of the chief Caonabo. The town of San Juan is an old place, and has suffered many reverses, having shifted its location at various times. To the north is the town of Banica, which, originally founded by Ovando in 1503, is now held by the Haytians. The whole of this beautiful valley of St Thomas, as it is called, possesses a superb climate, being an elevated district, and well adapted to raise cattle, sheep, wheat, and all the products of the temperate zone. And now we come to the famous commune of Azua, which always seems to have been a favourite part of the island, and has been noted for the luxuriance of its sugar- cane, its fruits, and the salubrity of its climate. Almost identical in its peculiarities of soil and vegetation with the district of Monte Cristo in the north-west, Azua seems always to have been a more settled part, probably from its lying in a milder region, and being upon the great southern route, in old times, from the Spanish to the French capital of the island. The old town of Azua was founded in 1504 by Diego Columbus. He gave it the surname of Compostella, in honour of Gallego, commander of the order of Santiago, who had a habitation in the neighbom-hood, its present ap- pellation being the old Indian name. This is the district which first produced in the most 246 SANTO DOMINGO. prolific manner sugar for the Spaniards — the cane being noted as producing for six consecutive years full crops without care or renewal. In fact, to-day cane is shown in bearing said to be seventy years old. But sugar alone is not the only excellent product, for every fruit and vegetable is remarkably perfect in this region, the orange especially being noted for its flavour. The present town is situated on the road from San Juan and Neyba to St Domingo, and is some two leagues dis- tant from the Bay of Ocoa, one of the most famous ports on the south coast, and in which Columbus took shelter from the great storm. The old town, where Hernan Cortes was town-clerk before he started out on his adventurous career, was de- stroyed by an earthquake in 1751. This terrible event led the sea up to the very town, when it was abandoned. Like all other Dominican towns, it is now a straggling- collection of one-storied houses, built of palm-leaves, straw, and poles, gathered round a wide open space honoured with the name of " plaza ; " and aside from the fact that it has been the home of the Baez family, who own large pro- perties in the vicinity, there is nothing to attract the traveller at present. With railroads, and capital, and immigration, this would probably prove a district agriculturally of the first import- ance. In this case the Bay of Ocoa, with its port of Calderas, being splendidly adapted for a great marine rendezvous, would prove a formidable rival to St Domingo city. All this district to the west of Azua has suifered much from the various revolutions and incursions which seem to have selected this province for their inception ; but now, happily for the rest of the island, these little " unpleasant- nesses" are pretty much confined to one locality. To thoroughly understand the cause of these, we shall have to study a little of the history of St Domingo since it became a republic. CHAPTER XIV. " Spain, watching from her Morro's keep Her slave-ships traversing the deep, With bitter hate and sullen fear Its freedom-giving voice shall hear.'" The History of the Dominican Republic, including the Spanish Possession. T)ETURNING to tlie period when the Dominicans separ- -*-*' ated themselves from Hayti, whose people had revolted against its chief, President Boyer, we look in vain in the annals of the time, from 1843 to the present, for any period of six consecutive years of peace and tranquillity for the inhabitants of the Spanish part of St Domingo. Nothing but conspiracies, revolutions, and civil wars mark a period of some sixteen years, in which Hayti, by constant incursions, added to the troubles of her neighbour. In absolute despair, it would seem, of securing tranquillity in any other way, one of the Dominican chiefs ceded in the most arbitrary way to the Government of Spain the island over which she had formerly had extreme control, by right of discovery and conquest. Immediately upon the giving to the breeze the flag of freedom by Duarte, the whole people of the Spanish part were in arms ; and it was declared free of Haytian rule in a formal manner February 27, 1844, a day that has ever since been kept sacred as the birthday of the Republic of Dominica. Carlos, surnamed Riviere Herard, who had succeeded Boyer in the direction of affairs in Hayti, receiving news 248 SANTO DOMINGO. of this insurrection, marched by the southern route in March 1844, to attack the Dominicans, as they now called themselves, with a force of 15,000 men ; but being opposed by General Santana near the town of Azua, he was entirely defeated, March 19, and forced to retreat, reducing to ashes on his way that town, a fate to which it has since become well accustomed. About the same time a similar expedition was sent into the interior region of the island, the Cibao ; but meeting with a like fate, it was compelled to retreat ; and, following the example set by Dessalines, the country through which the army mJirched was laid waste with fire and sword. On the declaration of independence, a temporarj'^ Govern- ment had been formed under a " Provisional Junta Gober- nativa; " and there were two divisions in the island — the north with Duarte at its head, and the south with Santana for chief. On the 10th July, however, Santana — wlio, covered with the lam-els gained in his victory over the Haytians, had marched into the capital — was on the 12th proclaimed supreme chief of the new republic ; and in the following November, delegates from all parts of the island having assembled at San Cristobal, a constitution was formed and confirmed, Santana being elected by the spontaneous vote of all the towns of the island President. Santana, it appears, was an humble planter, who had been living a quiet life in his native district of Seybo, but called into action by the affairs of his country, he seems to have acted with great decision and bravery ; and being possessed of much landed wealth, is said to have used it freely in the service of his country. Without being either brilliant as a lawyer or a soldier, he was possessed of good sound sense. It would appear that he resigned his office in 1848 ; but Zimenes, his successor, playing into the hands of Soul- ouque, the latter was induced to make an incursion in 1849 with 4000 men against the Dominicans. DESIRE FOR ANNEXATION. 249 Santana being called upon to assume command of the troops, met the enemy at Ocoa, April 21, 1849, with only about 400 men, and succeeded in defeating Soulouque's army utterly. For this he received the name of " Liber- tador; " and Zimenes being declared unfit for his position, Santana, forcing him to resign, restored peace and tran- quillity to the republic, acting under the title of Dictator. But he became unpopular from not securing the recognition of the United States ; and in 1849, Buenaventura Baez was elected President of the republic by a great majority of the electoral votes, — serving out his full term, it appears, with great honour to himself and advantage to the country, the republic being now recognised as having a political existence. Hardly had Baez taken his seat as President, when he was waited on by a deputation from the Cibao district, bearing a petition signed by the most prominent men of all classes, asking him to open negotiations with the United States for the purpose of annexation. Baez does not appear to have favoured this at the time, and advised its postponement till a future day, assuming that the slavery existing in the United States made it inexpedient for a country so many of whose citizens were dark-skinned to ally itself thereto. No one can blame him for this, knowing full well, as he did, that his own status in the United States, as regards colour, would be hard to define ; while in some parts of the South he would have been placed on a par with the field- labourer of the plantation. It would appear he was persistent in maintaining these views until he saw that it had become a matter of necessity, and was decidedly the wish of the entire people of the republic. It really does seem as though for a few years the Domini- can people enjoyed a season of rest and improvement. The country was out of debt, the money in circulation, consisting of paper issues, had a value fixed by the Govern- 250 SANTO DOMINGO. ment ; some attempts were made at organising an army and navy, stores and munitions for which were duly pur- chased ; while, more important than all, a mediation was obtained, in which Great Britain, the United States, and France united in securing peace from hostile neighbours. As the time for a new election drew near, Baez, who had identified himself with the party known as the clerical party, became unpopular with the people, who, it appears, thought more of the State than of the Church ; and in con- sequence, in 1853, Santana was duly elected President. There does not seem to be any reason to suppose that Baez acted in any improper way, or committed any act against this decision of the people, as he appears to have retired quietly to his estates in the vicinity of Azua. Santana, however, either mistrusting Baez, or jealous of the reputation he had acquired, seems to have acted more in keeping with the character of his former position as Dictator, rather than as President of a free republic ; for he decreed the banishment of the ex-president from the island, to which decree Baez appears to have yielded quiet submission. In order to settle the status of the clerical power, San- tana also made the Archbishop take the oath of allegiance to him as a power greater than the Church. On the 25th of February 1854, a congress of revision met in the capital, and confirmed the constitution of 1844, Santana promulgating the same as President of the repub- lic on the 27th, making a speech at the same time on the happy state of affairs existing. Although in the early part of this term Santana seems to have been very popular, and succeeded in repelling another attack made by the Haytian ruler Soulouque in 1856, notwithstanding the mediation that had been formed, yet it would seem that administrative power was not one of his gifts, and affairs in the island became very unsettled ; the credit of the Grovernment was lost, and INSURRECTION- IN CIBAO. 251 public opinion became so well fixed as to his incapacity for government, that he himself was compelled to confess his inability to control any longer its affairs ; and, there- fore, resigning his office, he retired to his place in the Seybo province. Curiously enough, however, he seems to have mistrusted the future, and made such preparations in retiring, by taking ample supplies of ammunition and arms, as would enable him, if he saw fit, to take an active part in future events if they should not prove to his satisfaction. It is stated that a movement that he made towards leasing the Bay of Samana to the United States was the real cause of the discontent against Santana in this term, particularly as this feeling was fostered by the representa- tives of foreign G-overnments, who, in fact, protested against the consummation of the treaty, which had been prepared by the agent of President Pierce. The change in Government put an end at that time to these negotia- tions. Baez at this time was out of the country, but all parties pretty generally seem to have united in requesting him to return and occupy the presidential chair, Santana himself even using his influence to induce the diplomatic corps to make use of their position to induce Baez to return, which, after several refusals, he finally concluded to do, taking his seat February 1, 1857. Hardly had he been installed in office, when attempts at insurrection in various parts of the island were made, all of which were put down, until there arose a more formid- able one in the region of the Cibao, of which the large and flourishing town of Santiago is the capital. This place, the centre of the tobacco trade, controlled principally by foreign merchants, and with a population more largely composed of whites and active, enterprising coloured people, has always had jealousy existing among its people against St Domingo city, as being the capital of 252 SANTO DOMINGO. the island, it being contended that Santiago, laying aside the question of antiquity, has greater claims to hold that position. Here, then, a strong feeling, fostered it is said by the English agent, existed against Baez, which finally assumed the form of an irresistible rebellion ; and he was driven in 1 858 from the island, going to Europe to look after some private matters. We have here the first appearance in the active affairs of the island of Jose Maria Cabral, the intimate friend and schoolmate of Baez in former days, but latterly his poli- tical rival. He was with Baez at this time taking part in the various encounters of the rebellion against his authority, and remained for a time on the island after Baez had left ; but his connection with that officer made him such an object of suspicion and persecution, that he, Cabral, found it convenient to depart also. Santana, who had taken an active part against Baez, was again called upon to preside over the affairs of the Government, and it was through him the island passed eventually back to the Spaniards. Unable to preserve peace among the factions of the island, without means or resources for its government and improvement, set upon constantly by the Haytians, who on every occasion and under every pretext sought an excuse to war upon the Dominicans, and regain pos- session of the whole island for themselves, Santana, it would seem, disheartened with affairs, and believino- that some strong power was necessary to preserve the individuality of the Dominican territory, suddenly, and almost without consultation, either of the people of Domi- nica or their rulers, threw himself into the arms of Spain giving up to its authority, in May 1861, the entire possession of the Spanish part of the island. It is a very difficult matter, judging at this day from the chronicles of the times and the conflicting statements of BRAVERY OF S ANT AN A. 253 friends or enemies of Santana, to form the proper estimate of his character ; but it is something to say in his favour that, up to the period of the Spanish annexation, he appears to have been to a great extent the idol of the population ; and even now the traveller frequently hears from the older people sentiments of the warmest admiration for the " Lion of Seybo," as he was called. Nominally the President at different times, he was, in fact, the dictator of the island, whose will was supreme law. His power over the masses of the people, it is said, was extraordinary ; and he did not hesitate to punish the most noted chiefs of the island. Many people may blame him, and do, for his desire of annexing the island to Spain; but knowing what we do now of the Dominicans and their history, we can afford to look with greater leniency on this act, in the belief that, feeling the need of means and protection from a strong power, having had experience of the selfishness of the different leaders in their party quarrels, utterly ignoring the welfare of the country, and having a watchful foe like Hayti ever ready to avail herself of the troubles and dis- sensions in the island, he acted the part of a patriot and statesman in ceding to Spain the possession of a territory which had been identified with the glories of her past history. Charity will concede as much, we think, to a man whose memory to-day is revered; who, while alive, was always honest, and who, for himself, never despoiled the public treasury. Valiant without a rival, he was the first to hasten to battle, and his breast was the first presented to the balls of Haytian enemies. He gained with justice from his admiring countrymen the appellation of " Libertador de la Patria." In manner, Santana is said to have been rough and brutal, though, according to some authorities, he would be better characterised as determined. 254 SANTO DOMINGO. Santana seems to have been really desirous of annexing the island to the United States ; but in this, it is said, he was frustrated by the threats and opposition of the French Consul-Greneral at Port-au-Prince, Maxime Raybaud. He then offered it to France, and finally to Spain, sending for this purpose General Alfan to make the offer. That the people of St Domingo were not generally con- sulted in this movement there can b(J no doubt, and even in some of the cases where an effort was made to consult their wishes, a decision was given against this action. The whole scheme, it is said, — and appears to have been, ■ — was a private one of Santana's, who, calling together the commanders and governors of the different districts of the republic, informed them he had opened negotiations with the Spaniards to incorporate into their monarchy the Domini- can republic ; and gave instructions how they were to treat the people in regard to securing their votes. Many of those who gave their votes testify they were not aware to what extent this plan of incorporation was to be carried ; and it is even stated that Santana himself was de- ceived eventually by the Spaniards. This may be believed if we read the treaty made between the two authorities, which seems just and reasonable enough, if its provisions had been fairly carried out, which they were not. This treaty embodies as follows : — 1. That the industrial freedom shall be preserved without the power of slavery being re-established. 2. That the republic of Dominica shall be considered as a province of Spain, and enjoy the same privileges. 3. The services of the greatest number possible of the men who have been of importance in the country since 1841 particularly those of the army, shall be recognised and have preference in appointments. 4. That as one of the first measures, the Spanish Grovern- ment shall recognise the responsibility of the paper circulat- ing in the island as money. TREATY WITH SPAIN. 255 5. That it shall recognise as valid all acts of the Domini- can Governments that have succeeded one another in the island from the birth of the republic. Spain denies that there was any previous treaty made for this incorporation, claiming that it was the spontaneous act of the people. Facts, however, do not corroborate this, for it appears the measures of the Spanish Government were taken with due deliberation, while the people of St Domingo were taken by surprise. In the circular sent by Santana to the governors, it was stated that Dominica was to be considered as a province of Spain. When the affair was consummated, and the treaty came to be signed, it was found that this was meant to be considered as a province beyond sea, to be ffoverned as were Cuba and Puerto Eico. It will be curious to watch the opinions of the press in Spain as an exposition of Spanish sentiment and policy on American affairs on this St Domingo question ; and we find the Cronica of 1861, speaking of the " unexpected demonstration" in St Domingo, accounts for it on these grounds : — " Fear of their enemies on the border, who wish to possess their territory ; mistrust of the United States in its aspirations ; that, instructed by the lack of success of the republics of the Continent, they have hopes of sharing in the same benefits as Cuba and Puerto Rico, and that they want to be permanently governed. Tired of its own inde- pendence, and afraid of the encroachments of the United States, it seeks our protecting power. And with this island stretching its right hand to Puerto Rico and its left to Cuba, we commence a new system, giving us the control of the Gulfr Nevertheless, they were a little fearful that the United States would interfere with this occupation; but that Government being busy with its own rebellion, took no steps against it, but eventually recognised the transfer. 256 SANTO DOMINGO. They claimed that " the principal service that St Do- mingo can render us, is that of preventing the North American race from getting a footing too near Cuba." A weak opposition only was manifested in Spain against this project, some of the papers stating, in order to create a feeling against it, that yellow fever constantly prevails in St Domingo, and Le Clerc's expedition was cited as an illustration of the fatal consequences that might be anticipated for the Spanish soldiers in taking possession. This charge was met by the assertion, "that while it is true that the Antilles are subject to this fever, it is also certain there are portions never affected by it, and among these is St Domingo, in which not a single Spaniard who has gone there has lost his life from it, but, on the con- trary, all live happy and contented." This transfer was consummated by Santana inviting the population of St Domingo city to meet in the cathedral square to witness the incorporation with Spain. Two war-steamers had been sent by Spain to Calderas harbour, and a number of Spanish officers had landed at St Domingo, without visiting any other parts ; and on the day of this incorporation these two vessels of war came up abreast of the city. From daybreak of the 18th March 1861, signal was given of the solemn proclamation of the union of St Do- mingo, numbers of people circulated about the streets, and at six A.M. the "plaza" was peopled by numbers of all classes, and a short time after began to arrive the troops that had constituted the garrison, all without arms. General Perez, chief of the capital, arrived with his staff, while senators, officers, and some persons of distinc- tion were present. General Santana made a speech from the balcony of the court of justice, informing the people what was to be done, and announcing, in accordance with the expressed wishes of the people (?), the alliance with Spain. ACT OF INCORPORATION. 257 Two prominent chiefs, who had heretofore manifested their opposition to the scheme, were by some means in- duced to remain tranquil, and though present, they, with the people, seem to have remained quiescent, offering no sign either of dissent or approval. The secretary of General Santana read the act of in- corporation, as follows : — " In the very noble and loyal city of St Domingo, on the 18th day of the month of March 1861, we the under- signed, met in the Hall of the Palace of Justice of this capital, declare, that of our free and spontaneous will, in our own name and that of those who have conferred the power upon us of acting for them, solemnly proclaim the Queen and Lady the excellent Isabel II., in whose hands we deposit the sovereignty that until now .we have exercised as members of the Republic of Dominica. We declare equally that it is our free and spontaneous will, as well as that of the people, who by our presence in this place we represent, that all the territory of the republic is annexed to the crown of Spain, to whom it belonged before the treaty of the 18th FelDruary 1855, in which her most Catholic Majesty recognised as a sovereign state that which to-day of its spontaneous will the people to it return this sovereignty. In witness of which," &c. Notice was at once sent to Governor Serrano at Cuba, and immediately troops to the number of 3000 poured in from that island and Puerto Rico, until further levies from Spain arrived, the whole number reaching eventually some 6000 men. But it must not be supposed that the incorporation went on thus smoothly all over the island; on the contrary, though I find records of documents purporting to be the will of the people of San Juan, San Antonio de Guerra, Pedro de Macoris, Baya Guana, Monte Plata, Savana la Mar, and Seybo, signed each by the governor or commandant, the parish priests, and one or two of the K 258 SANTO DOMINGO. prominent officials, as representing the will of the people, yet I do not find any record of the general popular will at such places as Azua, Puerto Plata, Mocha, Vega, San- tiago, and Monte Cristo. On the contrary, I even find that at Macoris (San Francisco de) an attempt was made by the people of that town to dispute this action of the Government; but the governor of the place, putting a cannon in position on the plaza, opened fire on the people, who were thus dispersed. Some time after, when troops had been landed at Puerto Plata, the ceremony of exchanging the Dominican for the Spanish banner took place, in presence of these armed bodies. " Spain began her rule with fair and generous promises, but they were not fulfilled. She mistook entirely the temper of the Dominican people. She forgot that they were freemen, and had virtually been their own masters for three quarters of a century." So far from keeping close to a liberal reading of the terms of the treaty, no sooner was she assured of her pos- session of the island, than the promises to her "most favoured " province were forgotten. In place of the im- provements promised, and the appointment of Dominicans to office, hordes of officials came from the two slaveholding islands of Puerto' Rico and Cuba, and were placed in authority over the heads of free citizens, many of whom, from their colour, they professed to look upon as no better than bondsmen. A machinery of Government was established, oppressive and intolerable, for which the people were expected to pay, and calculations were made as though based upon an im- mense revenue, to be derived from a country flourishing in agriculture and commerce, and with a numerous and well-to-do population — just the reverse of the actual con- dition of the island. It is stated that the entire expenditure INSURREGTION. 259 of the republic for the year preceding the Spanish annexation was but $241,347, while the estimates for the year 1863, remitted to Spain for approval, amounted to |4,476,000, and this to be applied to the administration of a territory some 20,000 square miles in extent, containing less than 150,000 inhabitants. The same policy that ruled in the slaveholding island of Cuba was endeavoured to be reproduced in St Domingo, and though some of the wiser and more enlightened minds of Spain protested against the folly of endeavouring to make a free people retrograde, the policy was persisted in, until it brought its own reward. Let us see what the Spaniards themselves say in their press. " But if in this incorporation Spain proposes nothing else than a vain display of authority, if she seeks nothing more than a means of satisfying a horde of hungry agents, who hope to prosper at the expense of the country," &c. " The Cabinet of O'Donnel could not accept the rein- corporation to Spain of Dominica, in order to condemn it to the same rules that were prevalent in the Antilles." At no time, while the Spaniards were in possession, was there perfect peace in the island. At St Domingo city, where were the principal headquarters of the officials, tranquillity and contentment, arising from the flow of Spanish gold, seem to have prevailed up to the very hour of the departure of the Spaniards; but in the other parts, especially in the Cibao and the north, great dis- content prevailed. Hardly a month elapsed before numbers of the Domini- cans opposed to annexation, who had gathered together in Haytian territory, promoted an insurrectionary move- ment. Geffrard, who had become the ruler of Hayti, on receiving news of the Spanish incorporation had protested against it, in which he was also joined by the representa- tives of France and England. Issuing a proclamation, in 260 'SANTO DOMINGO. whicli lie put forth doctrines that seem to be those of the present rulers of Hayti, he held that " from the moment when two peoples inhabit the same island, their destinies, by sympathy or attempts of the stranger, are necessarily united. The political existence of the one is intimately allied to that of the other, and they are bound to guarantee one to the other their mutual safety." The negro population, fearful that the restoration of European power in the island would bring a return of slavery, sided with the Dominicans, claiming " that the proposed organisation given to the Island of St Domingo defrauded completely the people of those hopes they had for the future in their change of Government." With these views, the movement of the Dominicans sheltered in Haytian territory was encouraged; and at the head of this party was General Cabral, who had united with him several other prominent chiefs, among them General Sanchez. These, marching upon Santiago almost before the Spaniards had time to take possession, proclaimed a republic. Santana, who had marched to Azua on the appearance of opposition, from thence despatched General Alfau to the Cibao, where he was successful in putting down the republican movement, capturing nearly all the leaders except Cabral, who made his escape into Hayti, wounded and sick. Most of these prisoners, comprising the very best of the youth of the Cibao, were murdered in cold blood; and though for the time this had the effect of puttino- an end to any future attempts at rebellion, the fire of independence only slumbered, awaiting the slightest breath to fan it into flame. So heavily, however, did the Spanish rule weigh upon the people, that small revolts were constantly occurring in different parts of the island, and it seemed impossible to secure peace ; though it is stated that, with great nobility GENERAL BUG ETA. 261 of character, the Dominicans did not at first revenge the cruelties perpetrated on them by the Spaniards, hut even returned their prisoners on parole. Oppression, however, became so strong, that a general desire for freedom prevailed throughout the island, but particularly in the Cibao region, of which Santiago was the capital, where the Spaniards had, in the Fort St Louis, their principal headquarters. So serious did this feeling become, that the Spaniards seem to have become alarmed, and a general amnesty was declared to all, whether they had acted in opposition before annexation or in rebellion since. It was too late ; the smouldering fire was not to be entirely quenched, especially with such rulers as General Buceta in command of the Cibao district. Stained with every crime, this man had been expelled as a criminal offender from Spain, but had at first been given the command of Samana, being afterwards removed to Santiago, where his greatest pleasure seems to have been in seeing how much he could torment the people over whom he was placed. He ruled with an iron hand; and the accounts of his brutality and cruelty are some- thing frightful, testified to, as they were, in my presence by priest and layman, man and woman. Although representations were made to higher authority asking for the removal of this Governor, no notice what- ever appears to have been taken of them ; and he retained his position until at last the people, worn out with his cruelties and oppressions, as well as those of other officials, broke into open rebellion ; and at the mountain Capotillo near the village of Dajabon, an humble farmer, a country- man named Cabrera, raised the banner of revolt. This man, utterly illiterate, not even knowing how to read or write, placed himself at the head of sixteen men in August 1863, and descended into the plain of Monte Cristo, where he was joined by Pimentel, Luperon, and 262 SANTO DOMINGO. others, who took possession of the small village of Savaneta. Here they were joined by a large body of Dominican refugees from Hayti, who, crossing the frontier, united their forces, then marched upon and took Dajabon, Guayubin, W 1 I III :^f\ ' E t llMll 11 Hi 1 • •■•1, .5 ., • 9 "■^ - --J-. '- \ . •^ ^ y. " WIDOW'S PASS." 287 (Widow's Saddle), to the south of which are the sources of the Ozaraa river. Over grassy slopes and rough defiles of now hard clay, except where here and there some mountain stream trick- ling down keeps the path moist; up wooded hills, upon which are seen every form of parasite, whether in its incipient form of a mere bundle of grass upon the branch of some tree, hanging in strange woody ropes or graceful festoons, or framed into sturdy many-trunked trees, we ride ; now holding hard with knee and braced-in stirrup, or almost embracing the horse's neck, one hand firmly grasp- ing a lock of the mane to prevent sliding back, we gain the mountain top, where, dismounting, we fasten our horses, and then pushing our way through the bushes, we come out upon an abrupt, sharp point upon the very ridge. And this was the " Widow's Pass," and there the great mountain heart of the island, with the towering Yaqui peak soft and distant ! What a sight was then laid out before us, unrolled like some huge topographical map, only with every point marked in bold relief by Nature's own hand, so there could be no mistake about hill or dale, mountain or valley. Steep down rose the extreme points and tops of the trees of the mountain below us ; beyond that a higb. moun- tain slope, and then descending slopes, and valleys covered with forest, with now and then a bright brown patch of the savanna land ; while in the distance rolls back into hazy eternity the dark-blue hills in various shades of indigo, blue, cobalt, and, where the morning sun glints on them, the most delicate violet tints, the tops of the highest hid away in cottony clouds. But words fail to paint a scene like this, where even the pencil cannot portray its beauties, needing, as it does, the colouring of a Church or a Bierstadt. This pass is a defile so narrow, separating the north from the south so effectually, that a handful of men might dis- pute the passage with an army. 288 SANTO DOMINGO. Here the Spaniards, in early days, offered to make a stand against Dessalines, when he attacked their lines to drive out the French; but the latter had no faith, and would not trust them with arms, else that desolating march might have been prevented. Descending the mountain, we reach a stream of clear running water, into which the Doctor and I, warm and muddy, rushed to get our baths, the first we have had in what might be called a St Domingo stream. Mr White, although envying us our enjoyment, declined bathing, from the fact that Admiral Porter had cautioned him against Sensitive Plant. bathing in these streams. Many of the authorities of the island give this advice also, and, perhaps, under certain circumstances, of hot sun or heated body, it would not be wise to enter the almost ice-cold water ; but our experience has taught us (including since the Commissioner), that when the clothes are slowly removed, and the body cooled before going into the water, no evil results are experienced. On the contrary, in the early morning we have found great benefit from it, to say nothing of the immense refreshment of such a bath after a long day's ride. Very pleasant enjoyment it is to thus pull up at mid-day and enjoy even the frugal meal that may be called lunch. BAB ROADS. 289 breakfast, or dinner, when, spreading a poncho upon the rich herbage, a siesta forms a pleasant finale to the lazy toying with that wondrous creation of Nature, the sensitive plant, whose tender petals seem to fold themselves up even at the breath of man. Our afternoon journey of this day was not soon to be forgotten, for we all had deep experience of St Domingo mud on the roads, which were almost impassable. The Professor led the way through one quagmire ; but the author, coming next, turned a little aside, and in went his horse up to the girths in sticky, pasty mud. Spurrings and lashings, answered by wild efforts on the part of the horse to extricate himself, only served to fix them deeper in the ditch, until the horse, infuriated and frightened, seemed ready to fall over on his rider. " Jump for it ! " shouted the Professor ; and jump I did, plump over my heavy boot-tops into the mud ; but throwing myself forward to the solid ground with the reins still in hand, succeeded, with whip and shouts, in pulling my now unburdened horse through to terra Jirma, where he stood trembling like an aspen, the only question between us being which was the muddiest. The Commissioner and the Doctor, profiting by my sad example, wisely made a detour through a short bypath in the woods, and came through without mishap ; but we were all glad enough when the Professor turned aside into the very bed of a stream in preference to taking the road, and following up its course, we had sure, gravelly bottom, even if it was at the cost of being occasionally splashed with pure water. That wild, strange scene I think none of us will ever forget, as, pursuing our way, we rode through a narrow bottom-land, in the centre of which was the little stream, over which and our heads would sometimes meet and entwine so thickly the branches and foliage of the trees on its banks, that sunlight was entirely excluded ; and then through openings in the bushes we caught a view of groups 290 SANTO DOMINGO. of palms and other strange trees in the meadow, while rising directly behind them were the hills covered with the gigantic forest trees, over which had grown the most dense and graceful hanging canopies of the morning glory, making a scene in which it would appear that Nature her- self had draped and festooned the sides in honour of the representative of progress embodied in the modest person of Commissioner White. At last we strike the road again, and then bursting out r- Royal Plain. from the timber upon the open ground, we get our first view of a part of the far-famed Vega Royal (Royal Plain). It appears that the name " Vega Real " was given by Columbus himself originally only to the level country lying between Samana and Monte Cristo ; but as new rUGA REAL. 291 villages sprang up, the word in its meaning became more contracted, being applied to the land at or near the place called La Vega. Now it means all that level tract lying between the Monte Cristo range and the Cibao or Cordillera ranges of mountains, extending west from Samana to the Haj'tian frontier, near Monte Cristo. In this immense valley are comprised the best agricultural lands and the principal towns of the island, including Cotuy, Macoris, La Vega, Mocha, Santiago de los Cabal- leros, Guayubin, and Monte Cristo, and though there is abundant tableland, it must not be imagined it is all flat prairie soil, for even many of the prairies are very rolling in their nature, while ranges of hills break up the level at various points. But here to-day in the " Vega," in the " Cibao," as it is indiscriminately called, is the principal agricultural wealth of the island ; and though thus far on our journey we had met with few houses, we began to find, as we approached the region where the character of the country changed so much, more signs of cultivation and habitation. We had some peculiar experiences of the weather of this island, for though the day was bright, we were constantly subjected to a series of showers, none of which lasted over ten minutes, and then it would be perfectly clear, until we really all became tired of being fooled so often, and vowed neither umbrella should be hoisted nor poncho put away. In one of these pleasant showers the temptation of making a pic- ture of the Commissioner was too great to be resisted, and it was deemed so characteristic, that I promised it should form the subject of my dedication page. Crossing a number of savannas, we reached at length the banks of the Cevico river or creek, which we quickly forded, and rode through a grassy, green avenue lined with palm, cocoa, and banana trees, into the village of the same name, where we put up in the usual fashion at the hut of a negro citizen. Cevico is simply a congregation of thatched huts around an open 292 SANTO DOMINGO. space called a plaza; and tlie statistics of tlie town are complete when I state there are fifteen houses and seventy- five people. We were received, however, by quite an historical old personage, Severino Gon- zalez hy name, who, a light- coloured mulatto, and now eighty-nine years of age, had been a captain in the army of the celebrated Dessalines. But his manner of receiving us at his door was simply superb, and would have befitted a prince showing us into a splendid palace, instead of the humble earth- floored, thatch-covered hut of which he was the owner. With his blanket wrapped about him in Roman toga- like folds, he, with quiet dignity and a magnificent wave of his hand, said, " My house is at your disposition, senores. ' ' My regret was only equalled by my chagrin when , after pouring out my thanks in my best Spanish, the Pro- fessor slyly said to me, in homely but forcible phrase — " Dry up, old fellow; he's as deaf as a post." In this house we found the family principally consisted of females, the daughters of the most opposite coloured complexions ; for while one was black as ink, possessing withal a graceful figure, the other was one of the finest- looking yellow women I had seen, with straight hair and superb black eyes, her form answering in its proportions and grace to a sculptor's model. Severino Gonzalez. THE '' COMMAND ANTEr 293 Orders were immediately given to gather the people of the village together before our departure in the morn- ing, in order that the Commissioner might hear their views. Bright and early, therefore, next day came a perfectly black negro with more clothes on than most of those we had seen. He informed the Commissioner that he was the " Com- mandante," and leaving that gentleman to digest the in- formation, he retired to an inner room with the afore- mentioned good-looking young woman ; and after some time had elapsed, reappeared in a clean suit of clothes, a Colt's revolver in his belt, and a brown felt hat bound in white on his head, the whole suit form- ing a happy contrast to his dusky face, which, I must say, gave one the impres- sion that he would willingly " knife " you for a ten-cent piece. Seating him- self in a hammock, he in an extremely consequential man- ner was proceeding to give us an idea of his great impor- tance, when he was abruptly cut short, and told to allow the people to come in, as the Commissioner wished to see them, and not the dignitaries. A number of all classes then came in, to whom Mr White made an address, and they showed themselves very enthusiastic at the idea of having perpetual peace given them, some being affected even to tears ; and it was with The " Commandante." 294 SANTO DOMINGO. hearty '' God speed you! " that we took our departure as soon, as the interview was over. We had fourteen miles of the roughest riding to do that I have ever seen in my life before we reached Cotuy, over roads that were not roads, up steep slippery banks of clay, and down rocky declivities that in places were so narrow, and gave such dangerous footing, that we were compelled to dismount and whip our horses down, picking our own way by holding to branch and bush with our hands, while our feet were constantly treading air. Well may every one exclaim and pray, " Give us roads ! " to which we say " Amen ! " most heartily. A sorry figure we cut, as, nearing Cotuy, we were met by the Commandant, a very black darky, who, in spotless linen suit, put us quite to the blush for our mud and travel-stained appearance. However, we were escorted into Cotuy to the house of the alcalde, who had prepared for Mr White's party — Mr Gautier, the Secretary of State having, we found, sent a courier on in advance to advise the authorities of his needing care and quarters. This house was an humble affair, though as good as there was in the village, it being simply of one story, divided into three parts, with a thatched roof; these three parts formed the rooms, the one on the left being that in which the alcalde held his court, the centre being the living-room, while the third part was redivided into two small rooms, one the shoemaking shop of his son, the other a bedroom appropriated to Mr White's use. As we had left Cevico at early morning without any breakfast except a cup of coffee and a roasted plantain, we were nearly famished on arriving at the alcalde's, and a suggestion was made that he should give us something to satisfy us while our people prepared a more substantial meal. Bless the dear old man's heart! In a twinkling we had a dish of fried eggs with onion and garlic seasoning, VILLAGE BAND. 295 served in cassava bread, moistened with warm water, and a dish of rice. Bread we had not, there being none in the town ; but do you think, lector mio, we held back on that account? No, sir ! to use a homely but apt phrase, " we went through " those dishes, and I had the satisfaction of helping the august Commissioner himself to the last egg. Ye pampered officials at home ! think how your devoted servants suffer in a strange land. Seriously, however, four days roughing it in St Domingo mud, woods, and roads, had made us ready for anything at meal-time. Tired as we all were, we had to receive the calls of one or two of the high public function- aries, and particularly the Commandant, a perfectly black man, and the fastest talker I have ever heard in any lan- guage ; but after much talk, Mr White excused himself on the plea of fatigue ; the officials took the hint and left us, but not yet to slumber, for to such an extent is hospitality carried in St Domingo, that when a stranger of importance arrives in a town, the band of the special locality proceeds to serenade the new-comer. However pleasant such a com- pliment might be to the tired traveller, even if performed by Strauss' band, yet it was a little too much for our feel- ings when a " din infernal " was made outside the house by the village band, consisting of a big drum and a little one; and so exasperated were our drowsy feelings by the noise, that it was promptly ordered to clear out, even the expected douceur (through ignorance, however) being with- held — " Cosa Dominicana." CHAPTER XVI. ' Through citron groves and fields of yellow maize, Through plantain walks, where not a sunbeam plays ; Here blue savannas fade into the sky. There forests frown in midnight majesty." COTUY — Its Appearance, History, and Location — The Yuna River — An Old Church, and Novel Mode of Advertisitig — A Vil- lage Cemetery — A First Regular Meeting to Receive the Com- missioner — Courtesy of the People — Swimming a River — The " Royal Road " — Hu-man-i-cu — Old Cocoa-Trees — Domestic Institutions — Woman's Rights — Reception at La Vega — The Town and its History — Hospitable Attentions — The Only Steam-Engine — The " Grand" Cathedral — An Official Break- fast — The Famous Hill Santo Cerro — Superb View of the Vega — The Old Town of La Vega — The Valley of Constanza — A Paradise — Arrival at Mocha — An Attractive Town — Pretty Girls — Handsome Cemetery — Eloquence of the Com- missioner, a7id some Plain Talk. ANE and a half miles from the river Yuna, in the centre ^ of the savanna, lies the old town of Cotuy, one of those originally established hy the Spaniards, being distant from Sfc Domingo city some eighty miles, and equally dis- tant from the town of La Vega to the north, and the bottom of Samana Bay, thirty-five miles. Situated formerly a little farther to the north, it was known as La Mejorada, or the Privileged, but eventually received the name of " Las Minas," because it was located in a district noted for its mines of gold, silver, copper, and iron. It was a flourishing place soon after its foundation by GOTUY. 297 order of Ovando in 1505, and some of the mines were worked up to 1520, when the scarcity of workmen was beginning to be felt. When the mines were closed by order, this town began to experience the same results that affected all the others, and became almost extinct. The modern town is a very humble place indeed, consist- ing of about two hundred houses and less than a thousand inhabitants. It is principally built around the plaza or square, which forms the centre of the town, the houses Plaza and Old Church, Cotuy. being of the usual framed, thatch-covered style peculiar to the country. The population, as far as we could learn, were principally interested in raising pigs ; but the country throughout this region is famed as a fine country for growing tobacco, coffee, and cacao. Under favourable circumstances there is every reason for its becoming a large town, situated as it is on the banks of the river Yuna, the largest navigable river, with one exception (the Artibonite), upon the entire island. This river, taking its rise in the rocky hills of the valley of Constanza, runs pretty generally due east, and passes 298 SANTO DOMINGO. within a mile and a half of Cotuy, and thence continuing its course through the great plain of the Vega Eeal, it finally, by various mouths, empties into the Bay of Samana, thus in its course running through an extent of country some 200 miles in length. It is fed by innumerable streams, and at present is navigable for boats some forty miles from its mouth to Almacen ; but canoes have no difficulty in ascending as high as Gouty, the usual depth of the river being even in the dry season several feet, the width from 150 to 200 yards. It would not be a difficult matter to improve the channel in such manner as to permit of flat boats being floated down ; and in this event, Cotuy would become the agricultural shipping-point of the great extent of country in its vicinity. Ten o'clock having been appointed by the Commissioner as the hour for the official reception, we occupied ourselves, after rising, in paying our respects to the village cure, visiting the old church and the village generally. We were much interested in the padre, a man of many years, and who, though born in Catalonia, Spain, had lived here nearly all his life, and "a better country I never want," he said, surpassing even his native province in healthfulness. He was too ill to accompany us, but we paid a visit to the old church, that had been standing many hundred years, and bore over the main door a crack caused by the great earthquake of 1842. A more poverty-stricken, cheerless church-interior I never saw ; built of stone, many parts had gone to decay without efibrt at repair, while the whole place had a damp, earthy smell, which, with the humble bier standing in an alcove, served to remind us of a charnel-house. As showing the utter simplicity of the religion of these people, we noticed there was placed in the curtained niche of an alcove a wax figure, nearly life-size, of Christ bearing the Cross, which of itself was horrible ; but in the VILLAGE CEMETERY. 299 midst of other decorations, of bits of gold-paper and paper- flowers, a highlj^-coloured gorgeous label had been taken from a vermicelli box and pasted at the foot of the figure of Christ. If this label had been in some foreign tongue, it might be supposed that it remained there in utter ignorance by priest and people of what it was ; but there it was in Spanish, as fine an advertisement as I ever saw, that Farrell and Son, Barcelona, made fine vermicelli for soups. Walking through the town, we saw nothing to interest us ; but, having a theory that the living are best judged Cemetery at^Cotuy. of from the manner in which they treat their dead, I walked out to the village cemetery on the outskirts of the town, which was a very humble, simple affair indeed. A lot enclosed by a fence made of withes, a wooden portico under which was a simple door with a cross in white paint marked upon it, served as the last resting-place of the villagers, the graves of whom were marked by no elaborate monument, but usually a simple cross of wood. 300 SANTO DOMINGO. Returning to our quarters, I found the people were already gathering for their interview with the Commis- sioner. They were from all sections and of all colours ; and the room not being capable of holding them all, they crowded in at the windows and doors, anxious to get a glimpse of the man who was perhaps to decide their future. (^^"* The Commissioner . in a few well-chosen phrases ex- plained the nature of his mission ; and when he appealed Meeting afc Cotuy. to them for their desires of annexation, there was no mistaking their earnestness as they shouted, " We wish it." It was a remarkable sight to see, in this humble habita- tion, these men, different in language, customs, and even complexion, earnestly invoking the representative of the Great Republic to give them that liberty with which they SWIMMING A RIVER. 301 were familiar in name only, and for which many of them had been struggling all their lives. One man, a tall swarthy fellow, whose feelings got the better of him, could not restrain his enthusiasm, but stretching himself to his full height, raised his hands to heaven, and exclaimed, *' With body and soul, God knows, for myself and for all this people, we want it and hope for it " (annexation). It was with a good deal of pleasure that at an early hour next day we took our departure from Cotuy ; for though we had been well treated by its people, one gets soon tired of a place where there is absolutely nothing to do or see ; and the dusky Commandant seemed desirous of making the most of us, as such an event as the arrival of a distin- guished stranger was extremely rare in these parts. He therefore deemed it his duty to see us safely on our way, and, mounted on a fiery little horse, seemed proud to display his horsemanship, for which all Dominicans are noted. In an humble way these people, with true courtesy, did all that lay in their power to honour the "passing guest ; " and if I seem to speak lightly of their appear- ance and habits, it is in no spirit of ridicule, but as a mere matter of truthful description that I see them as " ithers see us." At last we arrived on the banks of the main river, the Yuna, a branch of which we had crossed soon after leaving Cotuy, and here we found that our pack-horses would have to be unloaded, and swam across, while their cargoes were taken over in canoes, we ourselves being under the necessity of half-swimming and half-fording the river with our horses. The river was quite wide and with a swift current, the shores low and gravelly, as was the bed of the river ; but we all managed to get over without accident, except the writer, who, with his usual luck, managed to secure two good bootsful of water. 302 SANTO DOMINGO. The negro boatmen were very skilful in getting over ■without loss our cargoes and horses. This was done by- means of a cotton-wood canoe, a large ceiba-tree furnishing the material, the canoe being simply the trunk of one of these trees hollowed out by fire and axe. In this a perfectly nude negro stood with a long pole and pushed his way over ; the horses, having their halter straps held by another negro, swam after the canoe, which was allowed to drift with the current of the stream, while ' Camino Real the negro poled its head to the shore — an amusing as well as exciting scene. Leaving behind us the Yuna and its branches, we came out into a beautifully shaded road, with grassy surface, traversing which for some miles we reached the bank of the stream where we made our noonday halt. Our afternoon ride was still over level country, now savanna, now wooded and slightly rolling, until we struck the " Camino Real " or royal road, a great wide avenue in the forest, though now in fearful condition, but NATIVE HOSPITALITY. 303 bearing evidence that at one time some attempt had been made to make a regular highway, for still standing on each side were the " royal palms " planted for shade in regular lines, which gave an imposing and graceful appear- ance. But the roadway itself was filled with mud and water, the ground worn into ridges and gullies, resembling our corduroy roads, only, in lieu of the timber, the ridges were of earth baked hard by the sun. This is caused from the fact that the animals traversing this road put their feet in the same place as those gone before, and these gullies, becoming soft, fill with water, and get deeper and deeper, so that the traveller pursuing this route feels his horse stepping into these gullies, and over the ridges with a motion like camel-riding. Some hours of this fatiguing work made us very thankful when we at last arrived on the banks of the Jaina, a branch of the Yuua, where we were enabled to refresh our- selves with a swim in its clear and swift-running stream about twenty yards in width, and over our saddle-girths in depth. A pretty savanna with the romantic Indian name of Hu-man-i-cu, was our stopping-place for the night. Here we were hospitably received at one of the best houses with which we had met among the country people, quite a large cabin in the centre of several acres, enclosed with the pretty and luxuriant hedge of the maya or prickly aloe, while palms and cocoas gave shade to the house. Around us were fine views of the distant mountains, which towered high above the tops of the neighbouring forests. Our hosts seemed to be people of the better class, the husband, however, being away in the calaboose under charge of sticking a knife into a man at a dance a few evenings before. His wife took it very philosophically, as being quite a " cosa Dominicana," and she appeared in many respects quite an intelligent woman, her colour being what we 304 SANTO DOMINGO. should call brown, though two of her children were quite black. Well-to-do as these people appeared, there was not an _ article of crockery \ (if I except one it would not be polite to men- tion) in the house. Everything usu- ally made of such material was here fashioned out of calabashes, cocoa- uuts, or gourds; and yet there was every variety of bowls, cups, and ladles, all scrup- ulously clean and highly polished, in the cupboard, which had its place in the corner under the name of " La Fuente," and of which the lady of the house appeared very proud. The " Doctor," a strong advocate of " woman's rights," having engaged my services as interpreter in a conversation carried on with the wife, was anxious to have her opinion on the subject ; and I was highly amused when she said, with a good deal of vim, that " women had no business with such matters ; that if they attended properly to the duties needed in their domestic circles, their husbands would manage other matters for them." She was decidedly in earnest when she said " there could be but one head to a house — that was the man ; " all of which the Doctor put down to a gross state of ignorance. ' La Fueotc.' COCOA TREE. 305 Like her more favoured sisters elsewhere, however, she preferred the town to the country ; it was more cheerful and liveljr, and she could have more " bailitas " (little dances). Here I saw some fine specimens of the cocoa or chocolate tree, one of them being pointed out as twenty-five years old, and still profusely bearing fruit. This product alone would make St Domingo a flourishing and wealthy island, if the inhabitants, feeling assured of the future, chose to turn their atten- tion to its cultivation; and it would be a difficult matter to compute the amount of wealth to be acquired in an island ■where, without trouble, its plains can be filled with cattle and cane, while the hills, even to their tops, produce so readily the cocoa and the coffee. If there were no other products, if the immense wealth of mine- rals and fruits, and other products so easily cul- tivated, were left out of sight, and only the first-named produced, there is wealth enough here for millions of people to live in ease and com- fort, who are now struggling with starvation in less favoured countries. Three miles from Hu-man-i-cu, the other and even more difficult road from St Domingo city, known as the Jaina road, joined the one upon which we travelled; and a few IT 306 SANTO DOMINGO. days previous Professor Blake of the United States Com- mission had passed that waj'' with his party. We reached La Vega, only a few miles' ride from our night's resting-place; and entering a beautiful avenue, bright with the evergreen grass of this always verdure-clad island, we were met on the outskirts of the town by the Governor of the province, Jose Eodriguez, the Commandant of Arms, and about fifty of the most prominent men of the place and vicinity, all well and clean dressed men, white, black, and coloured, and all well mounted on the active, spirited horses peculiar to the island. -The fine horses and equipments, as well as the bright, clean appearance of the riders, put us quite to the blush, as, on our tired, mud-splashed horses, and with personal attire rough, dirty, and careless, we received their saluta- tions. I have never been more agreeably disappointed in my life than I have been in the people of St Domingo. No matter what the shade of colour, from the time that I landed at Puerto Plata to the moment I left the island, I saw nothing but the most natural and graceful courtesy exercised, not only towards all strangers, but also to each other. And here we might have thought we were going to be taken to the most superb palaces and entertainments, judging from the manners of these men, who, making no pretension, placed with true politeness before us such ac- commodation as they had. Escorting us to our quarters, the guard doing us honour as we passed the plaza, we were safely bestowed in the house of the village padre, who, vacating the premises, as we afterwards found, left the house and servants entirely to our party, furnishing our meals and attendance without a single command on our part, or chance to make any recompense, even at our departure keeping the attendants out of the way, so that we should not settle with them. Interchange of courtesies here ensued, accompanied with REMAINS OF STEAM-ENGINE. 307 hearty hand-shaking and good wishes from the people. Appointments for official receptions being made for next day, we were left to enjoy the luxury of getting baths and clean clothes, of which we stood much in need after our journey. The balance of the day being left unmolested to wander where we pleased, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to stroll through the village and the outskirts. One of the most striking objects was considered to be the remains of a steam-engine, said to be the only one ever put up in the The only Steam-Engine iu St Domingo. island, and certainly the only one I saw or heard of in my travels. This we found lying on the banks of the river, utterly useless and broken. It had been brought out from the United States by the village priest. Padre Moya, who had it put up ; and an American, named, I believe, Jordan Lancaster, from ISTew Jersey, engaged to run it. Logs from the neighbouring hills were sawn, and afterwards floated down the Camou river; but the Spaniards left the mill ruined, as they did everything, when they departed the 308 SANTO DOMINGO. island ; and there the boiler still lies, a fitting emblem of dead progress in an island where there is ample field for the remunerative working of thousands of mills and engines. The present town of La Vega is situated on the river Camou, one of the tributaries of the Yuna, and at a short distance only from its right bank. It lies in the centre of a beautiful savanna, which in La Vega. form is nearly round ; and is almost completely surrounded by hills, the town being to the north of the Cibao range, which it faces. It owes its foundation to the destruction by an earth- quake of the famous old town, founded by Columbus, of Concepcion de la Vega, which lay some six miles to the north and east. It is laid out in a regular manner, the streets crossing each other at right angles, in the centre of the town there being the usual plaza or square, near which is the only building of any importance in the village, the church. The houses are principally constructed of wood, though LA VEGA CATHEDRAL. 309 of a much better class than those in the majority of the towns, some of them being quite respectable frame-houses. The remains are still to be seen of ruined stone houses, showing that, at some previous time, the place deserved its name of a substantial city ; but lying in a plain as it does, and seen from the outskirts, it has anything but an impos- ing appearance, although its natural location is lovely and perfectly salubrious. The town receives its name from the great valley in which La Vega Cathedral, it is situated; and the province of which it is the capital is noted for its superb lands for grazing and the production of coffee, cane, and tobacco. Strolling through the town, we found there were some primary schools in the place, and well attended ; but the amount of business carried on seemed limited enough. Judging from the church, it was evident that more had been anticipated for La Vega than it had been enabled to fulfil ; for an immense church or cathedral had been begun 310 SANTO DOMINGO. on an extremely grand scale for so small a place, but was not able to be finished owing to want of funds. A very imposing structure in design, with pillared arches and solid walls of stone, it had been roughly roofed in, leaving the rafters and a portion of the unfinished wall unplastered. Yet there was the usual amount of tapers and flowers, only the limited number of worshippers were lost in so great a place. Our party was entertained at a state breakfast, given by the village padre, who, a native of Corsica, had been edu- cated in France, and we found him to be a highly polished and cultivated man. "We enjoyed our entertainment much, meeting the prin- cipal men of the village, all of whom were white, and as polished and intelligent a set of men as could be met under the same circumstances anywhere, while the material on the table was only excelled in its cuisine by its profusion. I must confess we were all much astonished at finding the unanimity of sentiment existing in this region, after what we had heard; and while there was some difference of opinion in reference to the present rulers of the island, there was an entire and hearty sentiment desiring annexation to the United States. A still more extensive general meeting of the citizens and people was held when breakfast was over, at which speeches were made ; and, our adieux being said, we rode off, escorted by the Grovernor and a number of others, being joined also by the padre, who, with his robe tucked up around him, and mounted on a spirited little horse, chal- lenged any of the party to a race, which he would doubt- less have won ; but our whole party increasing their gait after fording the river, we were soon on our way to Mocha. But, six miles from La Vega, we were to see a spot in which we were more interested than any place on the island, and of which we had received what we deemed 4 l* ^ 111 'ifllliiil'ni( 'T'tr^ ^jT . y^ *yi HOLY HILL. 311 fabulous accounts. This was the famous hill " Santo Cerro " of Columbus. The road we were travelling was very romantic and beau- tiful, though rugged ; and suddenly leaving it, we began our ascent over a very narrow and stony path, that led up almost perpendicularly above the tops of the trees, on what seemed a mere knob of rock. Still continuing, we found we were ascending an isolated hill, and as we cleared the trees of the lower surface, we began to get superb views of parts of the Royal Plain. We were none of us, however, prepared for the sight we beheld, as, reaching the very top of the hill, we found spread out before us in every direction the whole extent of the Vega Real, the famous Royal Plain of Columbus. The spot upon which we stood was the famous Holy Hill, noted in the history of the island as the place whereon was worked a great miracle in favour of the Spaniards. It is related that Columbus having erected a cross upon this hill, the Indians in vain attempted to cut it down and to burn it. Struck with terror, they perceived the Virgin sitting on one of the arms of the cross, and the arrows they shot at her returned to pierce their own bodies (?). Notwithstanding that '* every Spaniard would have a piece of this cross," there was left enough (so say the chroniclers) to take to St Domingo city, where it was covered with silver filigree, and, under charge of the priests, was produced at the Cathedral, to help to sell indulgences and perform fresh miracles. Upon the top of this hill, which forms a level plateau, stands a plain wooden church, originally founded by the Brothers of Mercy; and upon the very edge of the hill stands a large wooden cross, overgrown with vines, to perpetuate the memory of the original cross, I suppose. Back of the church there is a small village containing a few inhabitants ; but it is said, in former days, when the Holy Brothers had formed this hill into a hermitage, there were beautiful 312 SANTO DOMINGO. gardens all over it, where were produced. fruits only grown in temperate zones, but which, from the height of this hill, found a congenial atmosphere. But historic as is this old hill and its surroundings, it afforded us the greater gratification of seeing, I might say, the whole island at our feet; for there, far below us, to the right, to the left, lay the thousands and thousands of leagues of the noble, beautiful plain famed in and out of the island as the Vega Real. . In front of us, looking north, and stretching away until lost to sight, lay, hazy, grand, and majestic, the Monte Cristo range of mountains, extending almost to Samana, the bay of which, with its waters blue and hazy, or glittering in the sun, we could perceive like a spot in the distance. From the base of the hill whereon we stood to the moun- tain range, lay quiet and peaceful the vast level plain, broken here and there by the silver ribbon of a stream, or the curling blue smoke that served to mark the location of some hut or pueblo ; — such a plain as that seen from CatskUl, New York, or the Dyke, in England, on a clear day ; yet the very opposite in its character, for here were seen no rich fields of grain, no pretty farmhouses or neat villages, showing a careful and successful agriculture. No ; here was seen naught but nature, — beautiful, it is true, but wild, uncultivated nature, — where the palm, the cocoa, and hundreds of forest groves held undisputed sway over this superb expanse of land, where, with labour and capital aldded to intelligence and industry, it could be made to bloom into a perfect flower, fruit, and vegetable garden. It may seem too practical amidst such scenes, but I could not help wishing there might soon be seen the smoke of the locomotive on the projected railroad, that would bring access, civilisation, and culture in its train to this superb region. Descending the hill, we bade adieii to the padre and his GONGEPCION BE LA VEGA. 313 friends, and, accompanied by the Grovernor, we proceeded on our journey. A short distance from the base of the Holy Hill he pointed out to us the clump of stones that marked a portion of the site of old Concepcion de La Vega, to which the plain gave its name. Here, too, with this spot the pen of historic romance has been busy ; for it is said this is the spot where was first celebrated in America, in a formal manner, high mass, upon which occasion officiated the famous Father Las Casas; and every place in the vicinity is connected with Columbus. In 1493, Columbus having received an account of the mines of Cibao (literally stony or rocky ground), came himself to verify the report ; and upon this occasion, when crossing from Isabella, via the Monte Cristo range, he discovered this plain ; when so struck was he with its extent and beauty, that he named it " Eoyal." Constructing in 1495 a fort at La Vega, he was enabled, it is said, to defeat, with bis brother Bartholomew and the small number of troops with him, 100,000 Indians ; and this post became the foundation of the city of Concepcion de la Vega, the city being built on the very spot where Guarionex, cacique of the kingdom of Magna, had resided. The other fort established in the Vega by Ovando in 1504, and known as Magdelina, was placed at what is now known as Macoris. Owing to the fact of the mines of the vicinity, and the town being made a bishopric, it soon became an important place; but in 1564 an earthquake overthrew the whole town, and the ruins, up to within a few years, it is said, were plainly visible, the earth in some places remaining half open, leaving exposed to view the roofs of buried houses. The place is now, however, overgrown with rank vegetation. In the time of the original Spaniards it was the chief place from which they emanated on their forays, and here 314 SANTO DOMINGO. it was that Eoldan's mutiny was brought to a focus ; while at the time Bobadilla came out, Columbus received here the news of his arrival. In later years, so absolutely had the country gone to ruin, that the pass used by the Spaniards of that time to visit the mines of the Cibao became unknown, and it was not for many years that it was rediscovered. Strange to say, this very pass, leading then, as now, to the valley of Constanza, is little known, and yet the latter is famous as being in one of the most delightful parts of the island. It is said to be some five leagues in circumference, is fine and well watered with delightful springs. The pasture is good for all sorts of cattle, and from it one can descend on the other side to the fairy valley of San Juan already alluded to. It is stated that horses become particularly excellent here, while sheep and goats thrive amazingly. The situation is so cold, that during eight months of the year thick blankets are necessary on the bed, and in the hottest season meat keeps sweet several days. On the highest part of the neighbouring mountains there is often a slight white frost, and in the valley fire is often desirable for comfort towards evening. This was formerly a famous country for wheat ; and those who have succeeded in penetrating to some parts of this mysterious valley, state there are yet people residing there who are white, the women having even fair hair, and blue eyes similar to the Biscayans. It was my intention to have penetrated into this un- known country, but being unable to secure a guide, I was compelled to believe the assertion that it was to-day im- penetrable, and that, in fact, for many years it had not been traversed by white men. In 1864 the Dominicans were pursuing the Spanish troops through the valley from La Vega to Hincha, and their general, Esteban Rocas, was compelled, in order to efl^ect his retreat, to cut a way through this section over MOCHA. 315 mountains and precipices, and this for infantry only, it being impossible for a cavalryman to pass. For this reason, as was pithily explained to me, " No one knows anything about it, since a Dominican would rather go two or three days without eating than on foot ; he wants his horse, and will not visit places except he can go on horse- back and make a figure." I confess to having a good deal of sympathy with them on that score since traversing their country. Sir Robert Schomburg endeavoured to pene- trate it, but was unsuccessful, though it is said Colonel Henneken was more successful. And yet this is part of the country to which even Columbus gained access. The sierras bordering it are very high, some of the peaks being from 7000 to 9000 feet in height ; and it is believed by all the natives, from the nature of the quartz rock, that there is abundance of gold. I am led to believe, from what I was told, and what I have seen of the vicinity, that this valley is similar in character to those in eastern Cuba in the region of the Yateras, which, from personal experience, I can testify to as being superb in climate, salubrity, and soil. And so, thinking of the far-away past and the almost unknown present of this beautiful land, we continue our journey to Mocha, passing through a tolerably well-settled country, upon each side of the road being the various agri- cultural places known as " fincas" " estancias" "ynjenios," or " canuco," all meaning smaller or lesser farms, where tobacco, corn, and plantains are grown, or cane-sugar and molasses rudely made, while coffee is left to grow almost wild. In the bracing air of evening we came in sight of the beautiful town of Mocha, as it lies nestling in a plain at the foot of the great hills, and we now began to feel the im- mense difference between the temperature of the coast and the hill country, as these elevated plains and mountains are called. 316 SANTO DOMINGO. Here again we were met by the Commandant, a remark- able-looking man, and unmistakably a white gentleman ; and, of course, there were a thousand apologies made by these more than courteous people for the accommodations offered us ; but we really had no cause of complaint on that score; and we were glad, after our pleasant evening meal, in company of some of the prominent men of the place, to bestow our wearied bodies in our ever-present bags. With such a day as we awoke to, there was no linger- ing in one's bed, and so, bright and early, we were out and about, drinking in new life from the glorious atmosphere of this region. Mocha is an active, thriving town in the great plain, about twenty-five miles to the north of La Vega. It is situated in the heart of a country noted for its productive- ness over all other parts of the island, the tobacco and coffee of the locality being famed for its abundant growth and good quality ; and from what I saw of this region, in- cluding Santiago, I believe, in case of immigration into the island, this section will become the chosen spot. The population seems to consist more largely of pure white people than any place in which we had been, and the general character of the town and its people seemed, after a short acquaintance, to be of a superior nature. The streets are well paved ; there are many stores with a fair assortment of goods, and apparently doing an active business. The houses are mostly built of stone or the concrete of the country ; and from the careful condition in which they are kept, the town, with its abundance of blue and white paint, presents a clean and gay appearance. Altogether I was reminded of some of the pretty and flourishing villages of Cuba. The town boasts of a good-sized church of stone, covered with a corrugated iron roof, and it presented a more cleanly and thriving appearance than any church in which we had been ; while the cemetery at the end of the main street was BEAUTIFUL WOMEN. 317 a remarkably handsome place, both in its construction and its locality ; for situated upon the very brow of a hill, it overlooked the lovely plain, beyond which, in the distance, the many ranges of hills formed a charming background. We were quite surprised to find not only two-storied houses in the town, but even some that had garret windows, a degree of civilisation we had not yet met with in the island. And here, I may say also, we saw the first really beauti- ful women whom we had met ; and the sight of two lovely looking girls at one of the corner windows, with their Mocha Cemetery. brunette complexions, rosy cheeks, lovely eyes, and rich dark hair, was too much for some of our party, who, putting themselves at the feet of the young ladies (figuratively a los pies de V. M.), were rewarded by their very gracious smiles and "gracias." Here again Mr White was called on to address a large crowd of these earnest people, who had congregated at the town-hall to hear about the possibility of their becoming " Americanos." 318 SANTO DOMINGO. Eloquent as lie always was, and fired by the earnest, long- ing looks of the men of these strange assemblies, it was a rather trying ordeal to go through to be compelled to stop in the midst of an eloquent peroration to allow the inter- preter to translate it to the audience ; and Mr White was fortunate in having at his service Professor G-abb, whose long residence on the island has rendered him familiar with the colloquial language of the people. All it is necessary to say here about these addresses in various parts of the island is, that they were extremely practical and to the point ; and though these people heard some very " plain talk " about themselves, and what they would have to expect as part of the American Union, the remarks of Mr White were everywhere received with honest appreciation. CHAPTER XVII. ' Earth, yield me roots ! Who seeks for better of thee, sauce his palate With thy most operant poison. What is here ? Gold ! yellow, glittering, precious gold ! " — Timon of Alliens. From Mocha to Santiago. — Improved Roads — Fine Lands — Receptioti at Santiago — First Sight of the Yaqui — Description of Santiago and the Gold Regions. '' T^E had now been eight days on our journey, almost con- ' ^ stautly in the saddle, traversing a country which may be said to be almost a primeval wilderness. Up to our arrival at Cotuy, and from thence to Mocha, the country was so sparsely inhabited, that houses by the roadside were met with but rarely. Almost without nourishing food, exposed to the sun, and occasionally wet by the sharp tropical showers that went as quickly as they came, yet we were all in fine health and good spirits, notwithstanding the prognostications of the evil-minded ; and it was, therefore, with keen appreciation for the beauties of the road that we started on our journey of fifteen miles from Mocha to Santiago, the famous city ofthe"Cibao." Mounting our horses, and accompanied by a brilliant escort, we left behind us, early in the afternoon, the pleasant town of Mocha, with its gay appearance and pretty girls ; and 320 SANTO DOMINGO. striking a continuation of the Royal Road, we found we were in a much more thickly-settled country. The road was wide, shaded, and pretty generally dry, though here and there we came upon some ugly places, through which we had to struggle and stick in the pasty mud. The soil throughout was of the richest, blackest loam, similar to the splendid lands of Mississippi ; while on each side of the road we found the habitations of a much better class, and the farms or plantations on a larger scale ; yet with all there was a perfect absence of systematic labour and agriculture. One of the places pointed out to me as an " ynjenio " or sugar-place, was possessed of a fine lawn in front of the house, shaded here and there by the most superb specimens of the royal palm, while fine cattle were browsing on the grass ; the house itself, commodious but plain, being only one story in height, of wood, and painted bright red. Inquiring about land values, I was told the house and over a thousand acres of good cleared land, capable of raising cane, coff'ee, cocoa, cotton, and fruits, could be bought for about $5000 in gold ; a grand speculation with a stable Government assured. We soon had signs that we were approaching a prominent town, for we constantly met the " requeros," or mule-trains, on the way, with loads of tobacco to the principal depot, Santiago. Then we passed whole fields of guava growing wild, acres of broad-leafed tobacco, corn, and other productions, while groves of the " ramon " tree, upon the leaves of which horses and cattle feed as though it were grass, met us at every step. Some distance out from Santiago we were met by General Cacerees (the reputed son of Baez, whom he very much resembles), the commander of the military district, ac- companied by no end of governors, commandants, generals. RIVER YAQUI. 321 and others, all assembled to receive and do honour to Com- missioner AVhite. Mounted as they all were on fine horses, they presented an animated sight. Presentations and congratulations being over, the caval- cade wended its way towards the famous " City of Gentle- men," of which we caught a glimpse when we were yet some distance off. Riding apart a little from the road, I was taken by one of the officers to the edge of a bluff, and there, far below Vicuuty of Santiago Tobacco Tram me, rolled the wide, swift-running, but now rather shallow, Yaqui river, the famous gold-river of Columbus, which, running through the heart of the island, drains some of its most fertile plains, the limits of which end abruptly, and in many cases precipitously, on the Yaqui. This river, known by its various names of Yaquey, Yacki Grande, takes its rise in the mountains near the Peak of Yaqui, and in its course extends some 200 miles, emptying finally into Manzanillo Bay. Having a number of tributaries, it waters 322 SANTO DOMINGO. and fertilises a vast extent of country, and from the nature of its banks could easily be formed into a vast canal. So -winding is its course, that Columbus, crossing it several times, believed he had met with as many different streams, and accordingly bestowed various names upon it. After many windings in the road, we came in sight of Santiago, high up on a plateau, its abrupt cliffs and walls giving it the appearance of a regularly fortified place, as at this point the town itself was not visible. Descending to the river bank, and then mounting up a steep hill, we enter this queer, ancient, and historic city, bearing still about it, with its ruined walls and grass- grown streets, vestiges of its antiquity, relieved only by the fresh new houses of stone and plaster that have in later days been built. A house having been prepared for our reception, we were soon comfortably bestowed in the most modern well-built house with which we had yet met, but, like most all Spanish houses, having its saloons over the stores and warehouses of the ground-floor. During the whole evening numbers of the most pro- minent men called to pay their respects to the Commis- sioner, and appointments were made for the next day for the public meeting with the people generally. I had read of the beauty of the moonlight nights in St Domingo, but up to this time we had had no fair specimen ; but I confess the opportunity we now had of enjoying one of those beauties of the tropics was superb. The house in which we were located was upon the highest part of the plateau, the windows, like all those of this country, large and opening to the floor, so that swinging in one's hammock you could look out on the beautiful scene before you, the white walls of the house looking even more white in the pale light of the moon, while by con- trast the shadows were deeper and more mysterious, and stretching away beyond were the gently rising hUls SANTIAGO. 323 that finally ended in the mountain range which almost entirely surrounds the town, forming as it were a vast amphitheatre. A beautiful scene indeed, with the evening air pouring in fresh and pure ; and, with the fatigues of the day upon us, it was no very difficult matter to slip away into the land of dreams. " Santiago de los Caballeros " is one of the most ancient towns in the Island of St Domingo, and to-day really the most important in every respect. It received its name, St James, in honour of an order of knights in Spain, and was founded in 1504, owing to its vicinity to the Market bquare of Santiago famous fort " Concepcion de la Vega," and its being about half way between that place and the port of Puerto Plata. As has already been shown in the earlier chapters, it has at various times been subjected to attacks from the early French and buccaneers; it has been burned down by fires ; 324 SANTO DOMINGO. it has been shaken down by earthquakes ; and more latel}'' utterly destroyed by Dessalines, and by the Spaniards when they left the island. It is situated on the right bank of the Yaqui river, in a savanna that extends to the very edge, being nearly sur- rounded, as above stated, with hills and mountains ; and from its frequent destructions, it possesses now no building worthy the attention particularly of the traveller. It is built, as usual, around a large plaza or square, in which is held the market, the largest and most busy one we had seen, where it was a most amusing and instructive sight to stroll and see the country people with their products of every variety for sale. The streets are quite straight, and pretty generally run at right angles to each other, the houses in the main part of the town being almost entii'ely constructed of stone, while in the outskirts they consist of frame-work or the usual palm-thatched houses of the country ; and for this reason, seen from the hill at the back of the town, and looking across to the opposite bank of the river, the town presents a rather irregular appearance. It lies in the very heart of the finest agricultural region of the island, and is about 160 miles from the capital, with which it has little or no commercial intercourse, its port proper being the town of Puerto Plata, though in former days, when Monte Cristo was an organised port, its traffic principally went there, as the roads there are better, and easily accessible even for carts, while that to Puerto Plata is something fearfully difficult, and at times almost im- possible, even for animals, the only means of transport. The climate is undoubtedly the finest in the island, the place being noted for its salubrity, and it now possesses a population of about 8000 inhabitants, largely composed of whites, the majority of whom are as intelligent and polished as can be met with anywhere. Being situated in the heart of the tobacco region, San- GOLD MINES. 325 tiago is a place of active business, and controls this trade, many of the merchants being simply the agents of the foreign houses established at Puerto Plata ; and this influ- ence, principally Grerman, controls this part of the traffic of the island. The tobacco raised in the vicinity seeks this place as its depot, where it is packed on the backs of mules or horses, and, in charge of the teamsters who specially follow this calling, is despatched to Puerto Plata, whence it is shipped to Hamburg. With the proposed railroads to Samana and to Monte Cristo, Santiago must become the great trading centre of the island, if not the capital. In addition to the agricultural products of the region of which it is now the capital, Santiago has been, and pro- bably always will be, the centre of the great mining interests for which in all time the island has been famous, but which have never yet been attempted to be developed. About these mines there appears to be no really reliable information, but the geological survey now being carried on by Mr W. M. Gabb in the interests of a New York company will throw great light on this subject, especially if a work proposed by Mr Gabb, and for which he has had ample opportunities from his position of gaining materials, shall be published. It will not, of course, be to the interests of the company to make known all they know about such matters, but in general terms, I may state as Mr Gabb's opinion, that gold occurs scattered over a large part of the north flank of the central range of mountains (south side of Cibao), and also on the upper waters of the Jaina river. The gravel is rich in quality, but the quantity is too small over any given area to make it of great value. It might be placed on a par with the class of mines known in Cali- fornia as Chinese diggings, and will not pay a white man's labour. Gold quartz veins abound higher up the mountains. 326 SANTO DOMINGO. above all these " placer " deposits, but their quality has yet to be ascertained. That they bear gold has been proven by direct examination, and by the inferential proof that the gravel deposits derive their gold from them. Iron occurs in paying quantities only in one place, the Maimon river, a south branch of the Yuna, about a hundred miles from Samana Bay. It is superb in quality and the position of the deposit with reference to work, but the transportation and demand questions are too much for it now. Coal prospects are bad, such as are found being of poor quality, and appearing only in two or three inch veins. Professor Blake, the geologist to the United States Com- mission, who traversed the island from St Domingo city to Puerto Plata, reports superficially that " for the greater part of the distance between the Jaina river and the Vega Heal, we traversed a gold region comparing favourably in its indications of the metal with the gold regions of Georgia and the Carolinas. " Some portions of this region along the Jaina were anciently worked, in a rude and imperfect manner, by the Indians and Spaniards. Within a few miles of the ruins of the ancient city of Buenaventura, but on the opposite side of the Jaina, there are ancient pits and mining shafts, partly filled up and overgrown, known among the people as ' Puits de los Indios ' (Indian wells). It is evident that the miners, whoever they were, followed the bed of a ravine to its head, and then sunk pits at intervals, pro- bably at the prolongation of the placer, and excavated the gravel between them, in the same manner as California miners ' cayote ' their claims. There are doubtless some hill deposits along the Jaina that would pay to work, if water can be delivered upon them without too great an outlay. " There is no lack of water in adjoining streams, and there is sufficient fall or drainage for tailings. . . . GRAIN GOLD. 327 " There is no doubt that there is a gold region of consider- able extent and promise in the island, but I did not see anything to excite great enthusiasm regarding the deposits, or to encourage the expectation of immediate large returns from mining operations there. There is enough, however, visible to justify the labour and expense of carefully pro- specting the ground. The rocks are very similar to those found in all gold regions." Of iron ore he says, " There is abundance all along the route of brown iron ore, but it is questionable whether it is sufficiently pure to make pig iron." I may say here, that people pretty generally state there is gold in abundance throughout all this region, but that it needs tranquillity to work it out scientifically, although, even in a rough way, it pays the ordinary labourer to wash it out. We were informed of some Americans who had been in the interior for two or three years, but they being very close mouthed, nothing was known of their operations more than that they occasionally came down for provisions, which they paid for in gold. We saw specimens of the grain gold that had been gathered, and it is the same that, having been assayed at the United States mint, showed a fineness of 0.946. I was also informed by a prominent and reliable physician of Santiago that many of the country people always have more or less grain gold in their possession, and that there was one woman in particular who every Saturday came into Santiago to sell a certain amount of gold, which, from its form and its nearly exact quantity, proved the regular result of a week's washing. So much for modern investigation. Yet both history and tradition have given important facts on this subject; for as Lyonnet, who was twice sent out by the French Minister of Marine, in 1809 says, "Not a single country unites within itself a greater variety of mines. Nature has left nothing to 328 SANTO BOUINGO. desire in the mineral region ; gold in the part of Santiago, and in the region of the Cibao ; silver is common in the vicinity of Puerto Plata and Neyba ; a quarry of marhle at some distance from St Domingo ; there is also clay for pottery, porphyry, alabaster." We have it on record by Columbus himself that the Indians paid a tribute in gold on this island ; and Oviedo, who is deemed a reliable historian of the events of his time, has even illustrated his description of gold-washing with Gold-Wasliing. (Oviedo.) drawings of the natives at this occupation, the process appearing similar enough to that of pan- washing to-day. In the first voyage of Columbus, when his ship struck on a rock at La Navidad, it is related the cacique sympathised with the great Admiral so much, that, among other things, he presented Columbus with a mask, of which the eyes, the ears, and the nose were made of solid gold. When the mines of La Vega and the Cibao had been in operation some time, the discovery of those at San Christobal or Buenaventura (good luck) was made, and THE GIBAO MINES. 329 Bartholomew Columbus, going there in May 1496 to examine them, established a working party. Although as early as 1499 these mines are spoken of as being in decadence, it is yet on record that in 1502, ac- cording to Oviedo, two men, Garay and Diaz, found the most wonderful nugget of gold which has ever been dis- covered in any mine; it weighed 200 ounces, and was valued at 3600 dollars of the time. Romance even accom- panies this statement ; for it is related the lump was first discovered by an Indian woman in the service of the two above named, who were so delighted that they killed a pig to roast, upon which to feast their friends, serving it up on this same " grain" of gold for a dish, and of which they boasted that their Majesties had never dined off so rich a one. Unfortunately it was lost in that gale predicted by Columbus, it having been purchased by Bobadilla to send to Spain in the fleet. Walton in his time states that the poor people at a rivulet close by, after heavy rains, continue to wash the sand they collect in a small calabash, obtaining often an ounce a day ; the small particles, he says, being dislodged by the mountain torrent from the great mine, the old vein of which is now fallen in. But it was the famous mines of the " Cibao " (the Indian name for a stony country) which were the first that afforded specimens of the riches of the country, and yielded them the most treasure; and these were situated in the centre of the island near La Yega and Santiago, bordering on the river Janico; while in the mountains that enclose the valley of Constanza were large veins of a productive nature, large particles being washed down by the rains. Munoz states that Columbus wished to satisfy huu- self of the richness of that region, and accordingly, in March 1494, made that famous march by the Gentlemen's Pass (Puerto de los Hidalgos) into this region, when he was presented with gold-dust and gold in grain by the 330 SANTO DOMINGO. cacique, two of these latter, it is said, weighing more than an ounce. "Walton states that in the south, at Guaba and at Bahorico, several persons clandestinely enriched them- selves without ever making use of a tool, the maroons, who at that time occupied that section, procuring all the neces- sities they wanted with the gold they brought down to the villages with them. I find it stated that in 1502, although the working of the mines temporarily ceased, it was not from lack of re- sults, but only from the difficulty of obtaining labour since the order portioning out the Indians had been revoked. In 1505, however, the Governor Ovando, who, it is well known, had pursued a policy opposed to this order, made his peace with the King by sending home as his share from the mines of La Vega and Buenaventura alone 460,000 escudos of gold per year, a sum large enough to make the court wink at his transactions. But it must be remem- bered also that, in addition to this, Ovando carried on the government and made expensive improvements out of the revenues of the island, and as the cane had not yet become productive, we must suppose the yield of gold was large. This is corroborated by Herrera the historian, who alludes to the gold from the mines as amounting to over 460,000 dollars per annum in those days, and that not counting the grain-gold surreptitiously appropriated, Peter Martyr, who had also good opportunities of know- ing, says, that besides silver, copper, and iron, the mines produced, in his time, 600,000 ducats of gold. Even as early as 1602, as much as 240,000 crowns of gold were minted at the old town of La Vega from the mines in the Cibao; and the town of Cotuy, in those days, was generally known by the name of " The Mines," from the fact that there were so many miners living there, and work- ing the mines in its vicinity. Santiago, it is said, was also at one time inhabited principally by goldsmiths. SILVER MINES. 331 When we remember that all these above-named sums were abstracted at a time when metallurgy was almost un- known, and the loss excessive, we can imagine what must have been the original richness of this part of the island ; and it remains yet to be seen, by practical explorations and workings, if these are exhausted. Some authorities state that in 1511 many of the mines were abandoned from want of labourers, and because the working of the cane had become so profitable. That there must have been foundation for all these statements, it is given as a fact that, in Ovaudo's time, the receipts of gold received in Spain were so large, that the news spreading among the people, there were not vessels enough to take out the emigrants desiring to go to St Domingo. In 1530, when the decay of St Domingo had already begun, I find the President of the Eoyal Court remitting to the Emperor, as his share of one-fifth of the mines, $10,000 in gold and fifty measures of pearls, at the same time advising him that they had discovered in the island a very beautiful mine of silver and several mines of iron ; the latter being judged, in Spain, better than that of Biscay, although these mines were never worked. Permission coming from the Emperor to work these silver-mines, so much silver was extracted, that permission was also granted to coin reales (ten-cent pieces) of the value of those in Spain. As, however, the wondrous wealth of the mines of Peru and Mexico became known, interest seemed to be lost in those of St Domingo from various causes, principally, we may suppose, from lack of labourers, until, in 1543, all work ceased ; and by a royal decree Spain ordered that all the mines should be closed, the execution of the order being intrusted to an armed force, while the civil ofiicers visited each spot and denounced the most severe penalties on those who should attempt to work them. But when the island had reached a state of almost 332 SANTO DOMINGO. absolate decay, there yet seems always to have been more or less ore of various kinds taken out ; and I might cite here facts from Charlevoix, personal investigations of St Mery, of Soulastre, of Walton, and of Valverde ; but, to use the words of the latter, " To indicate all the places where are to be found the mines of St Domingo is impos- sible, because many have not been discovered, and the memory of others has been lost that were worked at the beginning. The island contains, however, ranges and forests where only the montero or fugitive negro have penetrated ; mountains, it can be said, where human foot has never trod, consequently there are many to discover." But all these authorities give place and date to gold mines and dis- coveries. As, however, I have fortunately succeeded in seeing the report made by the Commissioner, Juan Nieto, sent out by the Spanish Government in 1793, and who, from being the mineralogist to his Majesty, is entitled to confidence, it will be best to accept his statements concerning the mines of the island, showing not only that there are very valuable mines in the island, but where they are. The reader will find it in the Appendix. It is only by thus gathering our information from various sources and periods that we are able to form any idea of the real nature of this wonderful island. Among other autho- rities, I may quote an article from the "Annales de Chimie," by Guyton, who says, " It had long been supposed that platina was found only in the gold mines of Santa Fe and Choco, in Peru. Twenty years ago there was a report that some had been obtained from a ferruginous sand in St Domingo ; but apparently the examination of this was not executed so as to give decisive results, since it has not been published. What Mr Percy submitted to the inspection of the Institute in February 1810, leaves no doubt of the existence of this metal in St Domingo, eastern part. It exhibits precisely the same characters as that we have seen from COPPER MINES. 333 Spain. It is found principally after heavy rains in the sands of the Yaqui river, at the foot of the mountains of the Cihao." If the theory be true that all these islands constitute the ridges of one vast chain, of which Cuba and Porto Eico are a part, it is only natural to suppose that the same veins of ore found in one will be in a greater or less degree found in the others ; and though there is no regularly opened mine of copper in St Domingo, yet the signs are that there is abundance of that metal ; and we need only refer to those wonderful copper-mines of the " Cobre " in eastern Cuba to be satisfied that this ore does exist, in paying quantities, on these islands. Having thus gone, at some length, into the mining pro- spects of the island, we need only again refer to Santiago, to say that, notwithstanding what had been said about the strong anti-annexation feeling existing there, we were not able to discover much of it. Strolling about frequently alone, in stores, and among the people, and in the market, I confess I was much astonished to find the sentiment so generally difiused among a class of people, especially those who, one would think, to look at them in their listless positions, cared about nothing but being let alone. Yet eyes would sparkle and faces brighten as they spoke of having a strong Government. The secret may be explained, perhaps, by my experience with a fine-looking old yellow woman in the market-place, to whom I said — '' Well, old lady, you don't care about annexation, I suppose; you look comfortable enough?" " Yes; I want it too, more than anybody." " How so ? " I asked, noticing that she looked very sad. Her eyes filled with tears as she said, "Now my old man 's gone, I want my boys home from soldiering." And this seems to be the case with most of the womenkind, as they complain that, with constant attempts at revolution, there is no surety for the men remaining at home. 334 SANTO DOMINGO. At the public meeting accorded to Mr White, the elite of the people of the Cibao were present ; and I was struck by the fine forms and intellectual heads of most of those present, comprising members of the Church, law, medicine, and the leading native merchants. Eloquent as Mr White had been in placing before the people whom we had hitherto met the nature of his mis- sion, he seemed to be more than ever impressed with the responsibility resting upon him, especially as here were represented the intellectual men of the island, capable of taking any position demanded of them by society. Referring to their sad history, to their revolutions, and to their position (or lack of it) as an independent state, he compared their past with their future, in case they were admitted as a part of the American Union. Comparing the condition of the island as he saw it with what it had been described to him, he expressed the im- mense pleasure he had received in their beautiful land, and spoke feelingly of the wealth and happiness that would be produced naturally by their alliance with some strono- power ; and he hoped, for their sakes, it would be with the United States. Explaining fully the nature of our Govern- ment, he cautioned them, if they did not wish to become citizens of the United States, it was now time to express their views, which they could all do there openly or meet him in private ; but that they must remember, that once part of the United States, there could no longer be tolerated discontent and uprising against their rulers ; that a means was provided and a term prescribed when officers could be changed, this power being always in the hands of the people ; and that, if they earnestly and honestly wished to enter the American Union, and were accepted they would have the satisfaction of knowing that, while they thus became Americans, they would none the less remain Dominicans, a name of which they seemed so proud. ENTHUSIASM OF MEETING. 335 These remarks were received with great and evident satisfaction, and every one, at the conclusion of his speech, rushed forward to take the Commissioner hy the hand, the rest of us coming in, also, for an occasional " shake " from some enthusiastic "man and brother." CHAPTEE XVIII. * Delightful change ! how cool the breezes blow, And fan the sickly moisture from my brow ! The lungs confess their balm ; no more the same, Lightness and vigour renovate the frame." From Santiago to Monte Cristo — The Puerto Plata Road — Fording the Yaqui — Its Bottom Lands — The Vega again— A Dangerous Insect — Polite " Guajiro'' — Tobacco Culture — A Dry Country but Fine Climate — Tlie Amina and Mao Rivers — Some Tropical Habits — Swimming the River at Guayubin — A Faro Bank and Hotel — Multiplicity of Generals — A Long Ride through a Sterile Country — The Agave Species — Monte Cristo — Left Alone on the Island — Manzanillo Bay — The Coimtry South of the Yaqui— The Uninhabited Region — Crocodiles and Iguanas. WHEN our party reached Santiago, it was found that, owing to arrangements with the other Commissioners, Mr White would not have time to accomplish himself all that he desired, in visiting both Puerto Plata and the land lying to the north-west of Santiago up to Manzanillo Bay and Monte Cristo. As both the Doctor and myself had already visited Puerto Plata, the Commissioner requested us to mate this journey overland, and report to him at Monte Cristo, while he joined the ship and came up by sea ; which arrangement being acceded to, our preparations were soon made, we retaining two of the peons (servants), with the necessary stores and horses, while the balance of the party accompanied Mr "White. General Cacerees, learning our intention, with great BO AD TO MONTE CRISTO. 337 kindness furnished us with letters to all the authorities in the districts in which we expected to travel, ordering that every facility should be shown us for prosecuting our journey; and as our projected trip was to within a few miles of the Haytian border, on which there was constant fighting, it will be seen the orders might prove of good service to us. The region we were about to visit is famed throughout the island as being, so far as climate and healthfulness are concerned, a perfect paradise, the only requisite lacking to make it a Garden of Eden being a more liberal supply of water. On the morning, therefore, of March 3, an hour or two after Mr White and his party left us, we took our way out of Santiago; and fording the Yaqui river, which is the same stream we afterwards find at Manzanillo, struck the broad wide road that leads all the way to Monte Cristo, and which is said to be the only continuous road in the island upon which carts can be drawn. We found the road dry and dusty, the soil composed of a whitish clay, and then red gravel and clay, but it was wide, free from mud, well shaded, and bordered with timber, and could, with a little care and expense, be made into a most excellent waggon-road for transporting to Monte Cristo the produce that now seeks Puerto Plata as an outlet. Travelling this road for about eight miles to where it turns off towards Puerto Plata, we found the cpuntry so uninteresting and unsettled, that we determined to try the south bank of the Yaqui, as being less known and more interesting, for though a longer route, it runs in and near the fine bottom lands of the Yaqui. Following, therefore, a small creek, we struck at its mouth the main river, whose banks at this point were quite low, the river being about 100 yards wide, running swiftly over a gravelly bed ; but the current was so strong, that y 338 SANTO DOMINGO. we had to change direction and ride our horses directly against it, thus making a long sweep across the river, our guide remaining upon the shore and pointing with his finger the direction we were to keep. Striking the other shore, we turned our horses' heads on the now south bank, and continued our course through low bottom lands well wooded, and which, much to our surprise, we found to be well settled, principally by negroes or mulattoes, who busied themselves in the raising principally of tobacco; the field of plantain, it being understood, is always as necessary an adjunct as the roof of the house, for it is upon the "plantano" that the Dominican countryman lives. We found the people along this section generally quite poor, indifferent, and without much aim or hope for any- thing, except just to live. Occasionally we could find some intelligent person that showed more signs or desires for im- provement. They were all, however, exceedingly kind and communicative to us. We find nowhere the orange tree cultivated, nor any of the finer bananas, while the coffee and the cocoa and cacao are left to grow wild or by accident. It was the same old story. " Would not all these things grow ?" we ask. " yes," is the reply. " I suppose they would if they were planted." " Why don't you grow them then? " " What is the use ? Who wants them ? There is no market for them, and we don't want them. We have all we need without the trouble." Yet all these alluvial lands were rich in soil and forest growth, and the tobacco alone that could be raised would amount to an enormous sum, for these lands are of that low, moist nature that fine tobacco requires, and similar to those in the famous " Vuelta Abajo " of Cuba. Eiding for some seven miles along this bottom land in a fair road bordered on each side by the most luxuriant vege- THE CACTUS. 339 tation, we met with no settlements until we came to Platanay, which was simply a congregation of frame huts in an open savanna, the population apparently consisting of women and dogs. Our afternoon ride brought us up into the higher land, away from the bottom land, and we soon had evidence of the dry nature of the climate of this part of the island in the parched, hard nature of the soil ; for though of apparently good clay, it was baked so hard by the hot sun as to seem like stone, the country being almost entirely uninhabited, except when we came out upon some savanna-like place such as Platanay. We had been having, even in the bottom lands, signs of the cactus in many forms, but now we found them coming almost exclusively, the short (espargato) thick kind, with its broad prickly leaves, being even eaten by the cattle. As the sun was getting low we increased our pace, entering upon one of the strangest bits of land with which I have ever met. In many places the path wound up by some strangely formed fissure or chaotic abysss, that at a distance looked like rock, but on near approach proved to be clay, that from long dryness had split and cracked and crumbled, while upon the level plain every variety of the cactus was met with, growing in weird and strange confusion, and giving with their strange forms and cold grey colours, with here and there a dwarf tree, from which the dry moss hung down in strange festoons, a spectral, gloomy character to the landscape. As the shades of night quickly fell, we came upon a rude out-of-the-way cemetery, which, it would seem, had been fittingly placed here ; for this purgatory, or city of the dead, was a subject worthy of Dore's pencil. As the gloom of night closed over us, we felt we were not in the most enviable position, for, riding fast, we were far ahead of our servants or guides. We knew not the road, and we knew our resting-place for the night must still be some distance off, with no water near, either for ourselves or our horses. 340 SANTO DOMINGO. The moon, however, coming out from behind the clouds, enabled us to see the road or path, or rather one of many ; but luckily taking tbe right one we kept on, occasion- ally passing through some wide, level plain, upon which stood the tall rank grass, burnt dry by the sun, and upon which we saw, now and then, cattle, large and fat, feeding. This is one of the peculiarities of St Domingo. Traverse these vast savannas in mid-day, and you see not a living thing; but as soon as the sun goes down, you find coming out from bush and wood and tree, cattle, horses, mules, and goats, while you look in vain for the house of the owner. "With an amount of sense which the stranger would do well to imitate, they sleep in mid-day. It is my belief, that in this one article alone, the people could make themselves rich by raising beef and hides to send to the northern markets, if there were any facilities for doing so; for cattle have always increased so fast here, even without care, that a hide at one time was worth more than the whole carcass, and this too only six days from New York markets, with meat at fancy prices. And there is really no drawback to this, or why herd- ing should not be carried on as extensively here as in Texas. Sometimes a large fly similar to the cantharides, when an animal is wounded seizes upon it, and fastening itself to the sore deposits there an egg, which afterwards breeds into a maggot that gnaws and widens the wound, and finally deprives the animal of life. I have seen a cow that otherwise was perfect, having torn the flesh of its hind leg, was being gradually killed in this way; there it lay without being able to move any distance, the insects having actually burrowed into the bone, and yet no one thought of attempting a cure, although the wound was like a window, so easily could it be looked into. DOMINICAN TOBACCO. 341 But meeting a " Guajiro " who was returning from water with his cattle, we were in- formed as to our correct road, and putting spurs to our tired, thirsty horses, we rode rapidly until about two hours after sunset, and after passing several dry brooks and canons, we came out upon a level plain, which, by the appearance of the grass and the cattle, we A " Guajiro.' judged produced water, and making our way up to the , only house iu sight, we dis- covered we were just above the Yaqui, on high table land, where, finding we would be allowed to swing our hammocks, we made ourselves as com- fortable, pending the arrival of our peons, as we could. The people with whom we had stopped were more than usually intelligent. Both the man and the woman were mulattoes or natives, though they claimed to be white, and both could read and write. They were much in favour of annexation, and spoke of the benefits the country would derive from it. Their business was to raise tobacco and graze cattle, which, notwithstanding the drought, they said grew fat and strong feeding on the leaves of the espenosa, a species of cactus. To my inquiry why an intelligent man like him did not raise better tobacco, and improve the quality of it, he replied: ''What's the use? Good, bad, or indifferent, the merchants pay just the same price for it ; there is no market to go to except Hamburg, and Dominican tobacco has always had such a bad reputation that no higher price can be had there for it. If we could go into another market where, when the grades are sorted, a better price 342 SANTO DOMINGO. would be paid according to quality, it would improve us and our crops." Although it was very dry here, as they thought it, yet they could always raise two crops a year, one of tobacco, the other of corn. As for the low country, he said he could not be induced to change, the climate up here being always so good, in which his wife coincided. We found the night quite cold enough even with two blankets in our hammocks, but the morning air when we arose was superb, fresh, and bracing, and as we came from our bath in the Yaqui we were prepared to believe all that had been said of this paradise of a climate. For months and months it never rains a drop, and two years ago for one whole year it never rained. This is un- usual, for they have their regular rains almost every day in July and August, and in the winter, what they call the " Northers," it rains December, January, and February. Leaving here at an early hour of the morning, we soon came to the Amina river, a pleasant, rapid-running stream, and after striking into some bottom lands we came to another rapid stream, the Mao, both of which empty into the Yaqui. Both of these we forded, the banks in each instance being low and well timbered, the bed of the stream being small, clean stones. Penetrating the woods we came upon a plateau, upon which was placed the straggling village of Mao, an assemblage of a dozen or so native houses, inhabited by mulatto-coloured people and some negroes. The invariable reply to our question, " What do you raise here ?" was answered by " Tobacco, sir." " Won't fruits grow, and cane, and coffee, and cocoa ? " " Oh, yes ; only we don't raise them." "Why not? "I ask. " Quieu sabe, senor." (I don't know.) We make a detour, get lost in the bottom lands by the river bank, stumbling in our way over quite good-sized THE VEGA REAL. 343 tobacco patches and plantation fields, and finally, being gone about six miles out of the way, we were piloted by a native Dominican, he having the kindness to ride out of his way at least a mile to show us our right road. The aspect of this part of the Vega Real is very peculiar and changeable ; as you strike the main stream of the Yaqui everything is of the most luxuriant nature, palms and vines, and forest trees, covered with the various species The Vega Eeal. of the orchid, shade a surface thick with grass or green- leaved bush. Going some distance away from the river, or perhaps between two streams, usually emptying into the Yaqui, thougb now dry, the plain stretches out before you, covered with stunted vegetation which seems dying from thirst ; while as we noticed in the distant mountains of the Monte 344 SANTO DOMINGO. Cristo range it was constantly showering, tut those showers did not, strange to say, extend beyond the summit ; and this I afterwards discovered to be an actual fact, that while the north side is receiving abundance of rain the south is as constantly being parched up by drought. The new road to which we had been piloted we found was the " Real Camino," which, in this case, means some- thing, it being a wide, dry mud road, with a sterile tract of land on each side, which seemed to be burnt up by the hot sun and the lack of water. They talk about the burn- ing suns of the desert, but I think it would be hard to rival this midday sun of Dominica, for the road was utterly devoid of shade : there was no grass upon which to feed the horses, and no water for mile after mile. With my pocket-hand- kerchief wrapped around my head Dominican fash- ion, a huge palm- leaf hat on top, and my umbrella raised, it seemed utterly impossible to avoid the rays of the sun ; so, thinking the quicker I was out of it the better, I put spurs to my horse, and, leaving the Doctor to take it Gigantic Cactus. A SIESTA. 345 more slowly, I galloped on for shade, grass, and water. Hot and hotter it seemed to me as mile after mile I rode quickly on. Nothing but dry sterility ; not a house, not a human being to be seen anywhere, and not an animal even, except a stray comical-looking jackass now and then; while, to make matters worse, every brook I came to was dry as a bone, and "earth, earth everywhere, but water none." I looked at the cactus in its varied form, many species of which were perfectly gigantic, or the beautiful aloe plant, with its fresh green leaves and tall-stemmed flower, and wondered how they stood it and lived, when, happily, just as I was beginning to despair, I discovered ahead of me a clump of trees, with a few cattle under them, and riding up, my eyes were gladdened by the sight of a shallow, clear running stream, well shaded by dwarf trees, and some few of a larger growth, but no grass of any kind. Here were gathered a num- ber of horses, mules, and cattle, all standing quietly beneath the trees to keep out of the hot sun. My horse was soon tethered after watering, and hoisting my um- brella, I made a shelter of it in the sandy bed of the stream, stretching myself with intense relief for a siesta, taking care to have my revolver in convenient distance in case of accident, and then was lost in sleep until disturbed by our party, an hour afterwards, just arriving. Here is where the newcomer fails in adapting himself to the climate, and often brings upon himself sickness and suffering; for in place of following the example of the natives, the traveller from the north comes here full of energy and life, and imagines he can stand anything, and so, perhaps, he can for a time ; but he will eventually find that a wise Providence prescribes the life he ought to lead. Thus a man, wishing to work or travel, should be out and about at five o'clock in the morning, and at ten or eleven should shelter himself from the meridian sun until two or three, when the cool breezes of the afternoon have arrived, 346 SANTO DOMINGO. and thus he can easily accomplish quite as much and with more comfort than in the north. Thus learning from experience what we had heen fre- quently advised of, we remained until the strong afternoon breeze set in, and then started for Guayubin, a small village upon the Yaqui, where we were to stop for the night. Night overtook us before we entered again the rich bottom lands on the river ; but, as the moon was bright, we were rather glad to continue our journey over a country that offered us nothing in the way of scenery, soil, or inhabitants. Arriving, however, on the banks of the Yaqui, we found a small settlement, and were informed we would have to canoe the river ourselves and swim our horses, and that the boatmen were on the other side. However, we rode directly to the river bank, which we found to be some fifteen feet high and steep, and here we sat and stood for nearly an hour waiting for the ferrymen, who seemed to be carousing on the other side. Our shouts moved them not. I bawled to them that, being in a hurry, we wanted to cross, at which they seemed to be much amused ; even my shouts of " ofiicial business " and " government service " were of no avail, until they deemed it worth while, after an hour of this work, to come across for us. A man may be pardoned if, under such circumstances, he uses strong lan- guage; and I am afraid though ours was good Ano-lo- Saxon, it could not be found in the Shorter Catechism. One of the men, we found, was inebriated; but, as they both seemed to understand their business, we allowed them to unsaddle our horses, which they led down to the river bank, where was a large dugout or canoe. In this were placed our saddles ; we stepped in also ; and one negro taking the paddle or pole, placed himself at the stern', while the other, taking the halter straps of the two horses in his hands, placed himself at the bow. Then there was CROSSING THE RIVER. 347 a row, the horses pulled and backed, and the canoe rocked and turned till I thought we should get a bath also ; but finally, with shouts and pulls, the horses were got into the water immediately over their heads. Then the swift cur- rent took us, steered by the paddle ; the horses snorted, and plunged, and swam, their heads being supported by the negro in the bow ; every few yards we came to a sort of bay or shoal, on which the horses were allowed to get their footing, then another push and a swim, and so on to the other side. Here, a few- yards from the shore, we had to saddle up, as the canoe could go no farther; and, mounting our wet, tired horses, we rode up the bank, where we found a guard drawn up, this seeming to be an advanced post. A few words to the sergeant and the use of the Greneral's name gave us rapid directions for the village, which place we soon found, much to our gratification. Having a special order to the General of the district, and asking for his house, we were shown to the centre of the town, where we found a low, one-storied house of two rooms, well lit up. Dismounting, we showed our letter, and was told the Greneral was not there, but would be soon. The brother of the General then came forward, and he was informed we needed shelter for ourselves and food for our horses. The house was placed at our disposal in which to hang up our hammocks, the poverty of the place, he said, not permitting him to offer other accommodations. Wet, tired, and hungry, we tied our horses and entered. The first room had a billiard table, upon which some persons were playing, while behind it, in the corner, was a faro bank surrounded by players. Turning from this room we were ushered into another one, where already two hammocks swung and a bed was placed. We were too tired to be critical, and the offer of some hot punch made of eggs, rum, milk, and nut- meg, not only mollified us, but furnished us what we needed in the shape of meat and drink, as we were by this time accustomed to short rations. 348 SANTO BO MINGO. The General, Don Frederico Garcia, accompanied by several others, soon made his appearance, and apologised for his inability to treat us better, but was profuse in his offers of assistance. He seemed to be a fine, frank, manly fellow, quite handsome, and every inch a soldier in his carriage. He immediately presented us to his friends, whom he also honoured with the title of general. This made about the sixty-fifth general we had met with since we had been upon the island ; but, as yet, never a com- pany of soldiers had been seen. Ah! well, it is only " cosa Dominicana," I suppose. Our baggage having arrived, and hammocks hung, we excused ourselves on the plea of fatigue, and tumbled into our bags, where, happily, we were oblivious of everything. Bright and early the General came to see us, and finding us determined to start immediately, kindly gave us a dragoon to show us the road and take us to his (the General's) father's, half-way on the road to Monte Cristo, where we were to breakfast; and swallowing our coff'ee and bit of bread, we were soon en route, following the river for some distance ; then leaving behind us the fine tract of bottom- land in which Guayubin is situated, we were soon again upon the dry, hard soil of this upper country, that appears only fit to grow cacti or browse goats, innumerable herds of which we met on our road. A sharp ride of three hours brought us to the house of Don Ambrosio Garcia, the father of the General. Here upon a knoll, standing a little way back from the roadside, was the plain but commodious dwelling-house, without a blade of grass, a tree, or even a piazza to shelter the occupants from the sun ; but such a magnificent site, and still more superb air, made amends for this ; and the kindly way in which Madam received us and bade us welcome was extremely pleasant. Breakfast was soon prepared for us to which we did ample justice. We had hardly finished it when Don Ambrosio arrived, and welcomed us to his house THE COTTON PLANT. 349 most cordially. He had just come in two hours from Monte Cristo, our destination. Perhaps if the isle of Dominica were peopled entirely by such men as the two G-arcias, father and son, it would to-day be something in the political world ; for here was one of the most pleasant, intelligent, courtly men with whom we had met. His grandfather was an Englishman, his mother a Spaniard, I believe ; but, at all events, he was a warm advocate for annexation, which would be the salva- tion of the country, in his opinion. He had owned this land for a lifetime, and would not change it for any place in the low country. The wife, who had been born and bred in Santiago, was of the same opinion, on account of its extreme healthfulness, good roads, and purity of air. Don Ambrosio talked about the dryness of the soil and the scarcity of water, and then took us out to his canuco or farm, to show us the orange, the pea, the bean, the tomato, corn, pumpkin, squash, a number of native fruits, and, like a small tree, the cotton plant growing upon what he and others called sterile soil,because, forsooth, without machinery, or wells, or cisterns, or even the simplest agricultural implements, it did not grow the cane, coffee, and cocoa, all of which require more or less water. I asked him, did he ever plough the land ? He replied, he had never had a plough, and didn't believe there was one on the island (which was true enough) ; but that, if he had, he could make his land very valuable by turning the soil in the rainy season. This, he said, was very irregular ; but they generally had plenty of rain throughout the year, though at times it was very dry. Professor Blake and Major Macgrue, old Californians, have since told me that all this district, from what they have seen, resembles very much California ; and that, with irrigation, this would be first-rate agricultural land for any and everything. But even now there are two things that can be grown there that 350 SANTO DOMINGO. are invaluable. I allude to the cotton plant, which, in place of being a simple bush planted from the seed each year, is here a tree, growing two and three years, which The Cotton Tree. needs only to be trimmed and pruned to produce a large yield of the finest cotton — quite equal, some say, to the sea FI,n\T(Tr;iNG ALOF. VALLEY OF THE TAQUl. 351 island ; and not only white in colour, but of the kind known as Nankeen. The other article is that of the " CabuUa " (Foucroya Cuhense of botanists), a species of agave, from the fibres of which they get an article of hemp, of which most all the rope on the island is made, and which, being mixed with " sisal " hemp, makes splendid rope. Both of these grow naturally without care on this dry land, and with care and cultivation could be made to flourish in extensive plantations. All of this apparently sterile region is the home of the cactii, of which I counted more than a dozen species, while the family of agaves are seen in an immense variety ; and We found specimens of the aloe in flower, with a stem over fifteen feet high, — the most superb specimens we had ever seen. Don Ambrosio speaks of the disputed ground partly in possession of the Haytians, as being the garden-spot of the island, extending across to Azua on the frontier. While he described the entire valley of the Yaqui as consisting of a fertile stripe of alluvial lands adjoining the river, thence a high rolling plain extending on both sides to the base of the mountains ; the lower portion of the rolling plain, capable of irrigation, and with irrigation capable of produc- ing every species of tropical vegetation, especially sugar- cane. The southern slope of the northern hills is generally dry for about fifty miles from Monte Cristo ; but the north side of the southern range is very fertile. All of these dry lands are, however, especially valuable for cotton. Of course, during the wet season, the whole character of the country is changed ; everything then becomes bright, fresh, and green ; and this is about equal to our summer and spring, occurring in April, May, June, and July. Notwithstanding these dry seasons, the cattle, horses, and mules do extremely well, for the region is remarkably 352 SANTO BOMINGO. healtliy, and the former, when there is no grass, eat the espargato. Refreshed with our rest, including a siesta in the hammock, we left late in the afternoon the house of Garcia, where we had been so hospitably treated, and started on our journey for Monte Cristo, some twelve miles off, in a country of the same character we were now in. As the sun was just preparing to set into the horizon, we mounted the ridge that separated us from the sea, and then bursting on our view was a superb scene indeed. From the high point on which we stood the road descended into an extensive plain, broken a little to the left by a low hill, beyond whose crest could just be seen the roofs of the houses in the village of Monte Cristo, the land stretching down to a sandy, level coast; to the right, the plain, through which a small stream of brackish water ran, extended to a bold, high hill, known by its various names. La Grange (the Barn, given it by Columbus), and the " Morro," and which, making into the sea in front of the town, formed, with another strip of abrupt land, the promontory, inside of which was the spacious bay of Monte Cristo, in which now rested only a few fishing boats, where, in times gone by, rode merchant vessels from other climes. Descending the hill by a winding road we entered the little village, that is all that remains of the once populous, large, and important town of Monte Cristo, now simply the depot for receiving mahogany and other woods from the neighbouring country, to be shipped in small schooners to Puerto Plata, whence it goes to the European markets. Here we were hospitably housed in the warehouse of a German merchant, there being no hotels of any kind. We had hardly reached Monte Cristo when we found the Nantasket coming into the harbour with Commissioner White on board, and after remaining only long enough to get some fresh provisions, and take the Doctor on board, she steamed out of the harbour en route for home via Hayti. MONTE CRISTO. 353 Although I had intended to investigate tlie island more fully than the others, it was not without considerable regret that I saw my companions take their departure, and leave me to pursue my journey alone ; for the pleasant intercourse of the Commissioner and the Doctor had made very agreeable a journey through these tropic wilds, that would otherwise have been only interesting. But the Doctor did his best to leave me in a cheerful frame of mind, as I saw the last of him (shallow water preventing stepping from shore into boat), perched upon the shoulders of a stalwart sailor, his pockets filled with fruits of various kinds, a bundle of native hemp in one hand, while the other held carefully a superb specimen of the aloe flower, his umbrella protruding from under his arm. And so our pleasant party was broken up ; the many days of rough, hard journeying over, and the pleasant talk we had at our jolly mess all done ; and I left to pursue my further investigations all alone. Although the present town of Monte Cristo is a place of comparatively little importance, not being an open port, and the population only a few hundreds, it has in its time, as previously mentioned, in the past history of St Domingo occupied a prominent place, and one, as we have said, likely again to be occupied, in case of an improvement in its affairs. It is stated to have had at one time a population of 26,000, with its houses well built of stone, while upon the prominent points around were quite considerable forts, not a vestige of which now remain. In the time when the Yaqui also emptied its waters into the bay, there was no difficulty in obtaining fresh water, whether for the inhabitants or for the shipping that then frequented the port. From the fact that this source is now changed, Man- zanillo has become more of a place of shelter for vessels, although there is yet in that bay no town, and it is more z 334 SANTO DOMINGO. than probable that, with its natural advantages, it will be- come a formidable rival to Monte Cristo. Both of these places, however, are the natural shipping points of an immense and superb tract of country lying to the south of them. Monte Cristo is likely to prove an important point in the island, if ever the enterprise and energy that American annexation shall bring sets in; for this is the most accessible point from the interior of La Vega and Santiago, and, with a road made over which waggons could go, all the tobacco that now seeks a market upon mule-back by the fearful path down the mountain to Puerto Plata would come here for shipment. A hundred thousand bales of tobacco even now find their way to market each year, upon which a tax of two to three dollars per bale has to be paid for transporting it the small distance of sixty miles — a business that in old times was done here at Monte Cristo. Twelve miles west of Monte Cristo is the superb harbour formed by the Bay of Manzanillo, with clear water, the bottom at sixteen fathoms being seen. It is a bay equal, or even better, than Samana, though perhaps not so exten- sive, being five or six miles wide, and seven long, having also small arms and coves. In places the water is so deep that vessels can anchor with their bowsprits touching the shore. The shores are well wooded, the red mangrove predomina- ting, from which it is presumed the reputed unhealthiness of the place arises. There is abundance of rain there, and the great river of Yaqui, which runs by Santiago, naturally empties into this bay ; but at present a lagoon is formed, caused by obstruc- tions, sand, snags, &c., that have formed all the way down from Peladero. This lagoon extends for about eight miles square, and is gradually working its way back to the interior, covering up the low wooded lands in its vicinity, and thus forming the lagoon, in which abound innumerable THE CAYMAN. 355 fish; and here also the "caj'man," for which the waters of the island are famous, makes his home. Manzanillo Bay lies in a direction from north-west to south-east, and extends into the island a distance of about ten miles, and has emptying into it a number of streams be- Cayman. sides the Yaqui, the principal one of which is the Massacre, or Dajabon, famous for its pure water. The water of the Yaqui is also exceedingly pure, and the lagoon or lake formed by it has an average depth of. five or°six feet, but the channel varies from eight to fifteen feet ; so that steamers might easily find their way through it, were it not for the old logwood forests through which the river passes. 356 SANTO DOMINGO. Forcing one's way through the water-plants and swamp- timber, you at last come in sight of the river Yaqui itself, nearly 250 yards wide at this point, with its waters so clear that the fishes and caymans in it can be distinctly seen. Originally the Yaqui emptied into the bay at Monte Cristo also, as it had two mouths, but it has now become dammed up, as above described ; but it is considered feasible to open the channel again, which would give fresh water to Monte Cristo, and restore the fertile lands in immense quantities, now overflown by the lagoon. It is said that the river can be made navigable for flat-boats and small stern-wheelers all the way to Santiago. Residents in this vicinity state there is a natural change going on at this mouth of the river, which in a few years may throw it back to its natural bed, leading out by Monte Cristo, for the various channels are now being entirely closed up by the numerous trees and obstructions that the river carries down, and which form what is called in Dominican parlance a " balza " or bay, similar to those formed in the Mississippi, and which throws the natural course of the river into the woods on each side. Both sides of this river, from the lagoon up to the Maguaco, are covered with logwood tracts, in width from one to three miles, the wood being of good quality, straight and thick ; and it is said that, working it economically, and cutting down only the trees of larger growth, eight to ten thousand tons may be annually extracted from this quarter, as the trees grow very fast. The difficulty in exporting this article at present is the distance required for trans- portation, which, with the workmen's wages, makes the expense too great. All the lands south of the Yaqui bordering the river, from Manzanillo to Gruayubin, are extremely fertile, and a number of small settlements are scattered throughout the section. Tobacco, wax, and honey are produced in abun- dance; but the two latter, from the want of cooperage MAHOGANY TREES. 357 and easy conveyance, are not at present valuable as pro- ducts, though immense quantities could be exported. The " sierra," or range of mountains that extend from the southern boundarj"^ to this section, and that run nearly parallel with the Yaqui river, furnish abundance of maho- gany of the finest kind. This grows in " manchas," as it is called, or clumps of from fifteen to twenty trees close together, while for some distance no other mahogany-trees will be found ; and it is according as these trees are more or less convenient to water or means of transport that they are cut down. For this reason, at all accessible points mahogany has become somewhat rare, but in the interior, even at short distances in the impenetrable forests, there is abundance of this valuable wood, together with fustic, lignum vit^, ebony, and many other valuable woods hardly known. Our hardy lumbermen from the Middle and New England States, with their experience and sawmills, would find a mine of gold in all these timbered lands of St Domingo, some of the most precious and choice logs having at times sold in England as high as £100 ($500). The present mode of getting out this timber is very rude. A merchant, for example, buys the right, at a trifling sum, to cut down in certain tracts all the mahogany he can find. Then with a party he penetrates into the forest, and at the most accessible point selects his trees, which are cut down, and divided into various pieces, according to the mode of transportation, which in every case is exceedingly difficult ; if by water, then the logs are larger, but most generally oxen are used to haul the small pieces through the woods, and this done, even then it has to be often recut into smaller pieces, easy to carry on mule-back; and it is no uncommon sight to see, in the woods or on the road, trains of these diminutive animals each with a small square piece of mahogany in the straw panniers carried on each side. 358 SANTO DOMINGO. Sometimes the wood is so heavy that, in water trans- portation, it sinks ; and again, the mud is so deep, it can- not possibly be hauled further, and is therefore left on the road to decay. All of this territory that I liave been describing is known ^^-^^^ Tae iguana. as the " Despoblado " (uninhabited), as, being near to the Haytian frontier, it has always been a desolated ground, although some of it comprises the finest land in the island. The soil is rich enough to grow sugar, cofi"ee, rice, and tobacco on all the levels ; the hills furnish the wood, while in the savannas the cattle can be raised in large quantities, THE IGUANA. 359 the guinea-grass growing as high as the knee of a man on horseback. The cayman on all these rivers is said to abound, while the famous " iguana," a species of the lizard family, not only abounds, but is said here to become dangerous from its great size, some of them reaching five feet in length. A resident described them to me as being " more audacious than the cayman, though not to be compared in length or strength with the latter. Anyhow, I do not care to meet them on foot, as they turn round like a snake ; while a man is all right in the face of an alligator, whose only fearful weapon is his tail — the claws and teeth only work afterwards ; but this cussed old iguana jumps about like a dog, and can turn round ten times in a minute." Its flesh, however, is eaten as a great delicacy, the example having been set by the early Spaniards, who described it as a serpent, and at first refused to touch it; but the " Adelan- tado " (Bartholomew Columbus) being enticed by the pleasantness of the cacique's sister, Anacaona, determined to taste of the serpent. But when he felt the flesh thereof to be so delicate to his tongue, he fell to without fear, — an example which his followers seeing," &c. I saw here some of the largest terrapins with which I have ever met, and they are found in abundance in the waters of all parts of the island. Listening to the account given by a merchant, over a barrelful of them, of the mode of their capture, I laughed incredulously, and said it was equal to St Mery's story of the dogs of the island, who, wishing to swim the rivers, and being afraid of the caymans, place themselves at some place on the bank, and there yelp and bark, until seeing they have drawn all these monsters to one place, they (the dogs) start off to another point as hard as they can go, and there safely swim across. "Not only," said my friend, "can I vouch for the truth of that story, but I will add that the mules often resort to that artifice, too, to get across the rivers ; and I have seen 360 SANTO DOMINGO. them do it." Such being the case, I am bound to believe his account of terrapin-hunting reliable, more especially as I had ocular demonstration that the terrapins were caught. These gather together in the shallow water under the crocodiles or caymans, as they rest with their backs exposed in some sunny place in slumber. The negro women, who by the by have not the slightest fear of the cayman, knowing this, seek these sleeping monsters, and gently tickling them on the belly, cause them to turn over, when the women quickly seize the terrapins beneath. CHAPTER XIX. " Favoured of Nature, Eden of the seas ! Where beauty, health, and plenty join to please ! Clime of the sun ! yet fanned with cooling air ! Brighter than summer, yet than spring more fair ! . . . Let industry secure Wealth to thy plains, and commerce to thy shore ! ' The North Coast Line from Monte Cristo to Puerto Plata. — iMck of Water — Advantages of Irrigation — Tobacco Preparation — Dominican Soldiers and Haytian Battles — Country Hospitality — Used-up Horses — Fresh Start — The " Puerta de los Hidalgos'" — Bottom Lands of the Coast — Im- promptu Cooking — Old Isabella — Laguna — Domestic Economy — A Long Hide — Played-out Horse — The Road from Santiago to Puerto Plata — The Requeros — Rough Accommodations — Bad Road to Puerto Plata — Arrival there and Departure. WISHING to examine the country lying between the Yaqui river and the coast, and extending from Monte Cristo down to Puerto Plata, I took my leave of tlie former place, and making an early start, began my journey in that direction, although I had many misgivings about my horse and those of my attendants, which, from their lonij' and arduous journeyings, and the poor food with which they had been supplied, showed signs of giving out. Strangely enough, although corn grows in abundance at the least two crops in the year, it is with the greatest difficulty the traveller can in most places purchase enough grain with which to feed his horse, and he is therefore compelled to trust to the guinea-grass, or avail himself of 362 SANTO DOMINGO. patches of com planted simply for fodder, no attention being paid to the grain. Thus the poor animals are worked and starved to death, never being groomed or attended to, and in many cases it is simply their hardy natures that saves them from a miserable death. For the first twenty-four miles my road was the same as that by which I had come, namely, from Monte Cristo to Guayubin. Traversing it in daytime, I was better able to see the country, which, as I have before stated, is generally very dry, very little settled, and called sterile, though, from what I have already written, it will be seen that all that it needs to make it fertile is a simple system of irrigation.* About twelve miles out I met our friend, Don Frederico Garcia, the commandant and governor of the province, on his way up to Monte Cristo, and thence to the frontier for a little scout against Luperon. He was accompanied bj'- quite a number of distinguished (?) generals and others, all mounted on horseback, to whom I was introduced with much formalitj". We had some pleasant words together ; and on bidding them good-bye, I saluted General Garcia, hoping that his desires might be soon gratified, and that then we could both shake hands as "Americanos." " God grant it," he said, " and you must embrace me as your friend and brother anyhow ; " whereuporf, spurring his * While in England, it has been the good fortune of the author to meet with Lieutenant Woodward of the Royal Engineers, now acting as Assistant Commissioner of Irrigation in the Island of Ceylon. From him I learned that many parts of that island are similar to those of St Domingo, but that by a simple system of irrigation thousands of acres of land that had been considered as worthless and sterile have been rendered fertile and productive, by bringing the waters of the various rivers over the land at certain periods. This has been easily accomplished by erecting dams in the various streams, which, being filled during the season of high water, have been flooded upon the land in the dry season. This system could be easily adapted to St Domingo, where there are no lack of watercourses ; and so naturally adapted are their banks and the nature of the country through which they pass, this could be accomplished at a very trifling expense in comparison with the immense value of the lands they would thus bring under luxuriant cultivation. TOBACCO PREPARATION. 363 horse close to mine, he threw his arms around me and gave me a most hearty embrace. Now as "Frederico" is a fine-looking, handsome white soldier, this little ceremony was not so bad, but when Grene- ral , a stalwart jet-black negro, pushed his horse up to mine, and said, " Yo tambien (I also), sir," I confess I felt a little weak in my patriotism, but still allowed him to give me a good square squeeze, taking care to avoid the threat- ened embraces of the rest of the party, on the plea that my horse was a little weak and tired, and I must hurry on ; so with more hand-shaking and hearty good-byes, we parted the best friends in the world. My poor horse, fatigued with his constant journeyings on the island, was utterly overcome before I reached Guayubin by the heat and thirst, which latter he was entirely unable to allay from want of water the whole of this distance. On arriving near the bottom lands of the Yaqui, he was so utterly used up, that I had to dismount and lead him a mile or so to the house of Seuor Rodriguez, to whom I had a short note of introduction, where, by the assistance of one of their people, he was conducted slowly to a watering-place, where he was able to cool his mouth, now parched almost to dry leather, while I ayailed myself of the opportunity of taking a short siesta in the ubi- quitous hammock, pending the arrival of my escort, which I had considerably outdistanced. As all of Rodriguez's family were away, I sent my "peons" on to Gruayubin, only a mile or two farther, to order my mid-day meal, and see if it were possible to procure fresh horses, as all of those I had were almost entirely knocked up. At this house I had the chance to study their primitive way of preparing the tobacco for market and for domestic cigar manufacture; it is of the most rude and simple nature, the tobacco being merely run over while dry, and piled up in quantities enough to fill a ceroon, without regard to colour, perfection, or quality of leaf, all being stowed 364 SANTO DOMINGO. indiscriminately in a pile inside the matting. Yet, with care, the tobacco of St Domingo can, I believe, be made as valuable in the marts of commerce as that of Cuba. Some of that I smoked in the uplands of the interior was quite as high flavoured and good as that of the best Vuelta Abao, and doubtless, if care were used in its curing, large quan- liizards. titles would be equally good, that are now only passable, from negligence or ignorance in preparation. Having refreshed myself at Guayubin, I found I could not be supplied there with fresh horses. The secretary of the General, however, who, though a negro, seemed to be master of several languages, advised me to go on a few miles farther to a place called " Villa Lobo," where there was a superior " Coronel Commandant," DOMINICAN SOLDIERS. 365 who might be able to furnish me a dragoon and horses, and to whom he wrote me a note of introduction. Starting off my escort, therefore, slowly, I gave instruc- tions to my guides where to meet me, and their gait being so exceedingly slow and tiresome, I set off alone at a more rapid gait, in order to see more of the country by daylight. It is a peculiar feature in this island that everywhere in the dryest sections the moment you come near a water- course or river the whole aspect of the country changes from dry sterility to that of the most luxuriant vegetation ; so that the traveller in these dry regions usually tells his approach to water by the gradually-improved appearance of the vegetation and soil. Thus it is around Guayubin in every direction, for near it are some of the best lands on the island, while the town itself is situated on the finest bottom lands bordering the river, where everything grows of which it is possible to conceive. Leaving again the town behind me, I found, as I gradually travelled on, the coimtry to fall somewhat back into the dry and sandy nature of the soil about Monte Cristo, though here and there I came across patches of tolerably good land. Not a soul did I meet nor a living creature did I see, as I rode on mile after mile, if I except those lively little fellows the lizards, which, of every size and colour, con- stantly in their quick nervous manner crossed my path, or rushed from their hiding-places in the grassy paths of the woods, alarmed by my horse's feet. Night soon overtook me on my lonely road, and I was not sorry to join company with three wild-looking soldiers, as they informed me they were going the same road — two of whom were on foot, the third being mounted on a diminutive jackass, with the rations and arms of the party. I kept company with them for some time ; but thinking to make time, and having received instructions about my road. 366 SANTO DOMINGO. I continued on, until, in entering a woody defile, it became so dark that I mistook the white, gravelly bed of a dry stream for the road, up which I rode some distance, over rocks, jumping trees, and struggling against branches overhead, until I finally brought up against the precipitous bank; but the moonlight coming to my assistance, I dis- covered my mistake, and retraced my steps to the point where I had lost the road, being guided thereto by the songs of the soldiers, who had come up and were passing on ahead of me. I soon rejoined them, and was amused and interested by their accounts of soldier-life in St Domingo, and the general service of the army. There is one thing to be said about these Dominicans, and that is, they could, with drill and discipline, be made the best of infantry soldiers, for they think nothing of starting off and marching their forty-five to sixty miles per day, day in and day out, apparently without any fatigue, and on food that we would not think could keep body and soul together. As I rode alongside the mounted one, the two footmen kept always ahead, singing at the top of their voices some Dominican refrain, which seemed to enliven their weary journey. They gave me some amusing accounts of their fights with the Haytians, and seemed to hold them in great con- tempt, as they (the Dominicans) did not hesitate to attack with the odds against them of sometimes five to one. At the time I considered this as braggadocio, but I was credibly informed by a Haytian general that this was absolutely the fact, as the Haytian people were not fond of fighting, and they dreaded the machete of the Domini- can soldiers, a sort of sword with which all Dominicans of the lower ranks are armed, whether they are soldiers or civilians. An eye-witness described to me, in amusing terms one of these fights, in which the two parties approached each shouting with all their might; then the Haytians HA YTIA N BA TTLES. 367 would fire in the air, thinking the noise would scare their opponents ; but the latter, drawing their swords, would rush in, and compel the Haj'tians to seek covert, and thus sometimes a whole day would be spent by these people, to the number of several hundreds, without any one being hurt, and yet it would be called a great battle, each side claiming a victory.* Coming to a halt in a narrow path in the woods, the party informed me that, turning a little to the left, I would come to the place of which I was in search ; and bidding me good-bye, they started off, leaving me under their instructions to find mj^self in front of a large house in an open savanna, before which was blazing a large fire, and about which were gathered a number of soldiers. Inquiring for the ,, ^ ^^ commandant, I found, with my usual luck, he had gone back from whence I had just come, but that his wife was there. I asked for her, when, from a crowd of women at the door, there arose one who said she was that lady. Handing her the note and telling her my needs, she remarked that she could not read it; that there were no horses, but that I was welcome to make myself as comfort- able as I could. As the prospects were not very attractive for a long stay, I thanked her very kindly, and having the address of a well-to-do planter in the neighbourhood, I hired a guide to show me the way to his house, leaving word with my peons to come up with me. " Villa Loba " I found to be a large scattered settle- ♦ The author happened to be near a place where there was a skirmish in which Luperou, with a party of some ten men, came very near being cap- tured, being compelled to take to the woods, several of his party being killed or captured, as was also his horse and equipments with private papers. The whole number engaged on both sides was not over twenty-five men, and yet I saw in the organ of Cabral, as well as in some American papers, an account which purported to be that of a tremendous battle, in which, of course, the " Patriot" party were the victors. 368 SANTO DOMINGO. ment on some very excellent land, most of the smaller huts being occupied by negroes, while the larger places, or " canucos," were inhabited by well-to-do whites or mulat- toes. In a short time I arrived at the house I was seeking, the moon happily serving to show us our road, over which it was only by beatings and spurring of the guide and myself that my now utterly used-up horse was conducted. No sooner had I arrived and made my wants known, than I was invited in the most hospitable manner to dis- mount, enter, and make myself at home, my poor horse being immediately looked after. On entering the house, I found it to be a substantial wooden building in the usual fashion of the country, with several rooms, the main one being filled with quite a number of women of all ages, busying themselves by candlelight in shelling the native white and red bean, or "frijole," of the country. Of course my advent created great interest, and they chattered and worked at a great rate until the arrival of my peons and horses put a finishing touch to their curiosity, and they all prepared to clear up the room, that I might swing my hammock and make myself comfortable for the night. I found all of these women kind, bright, and intelligent, with a natural dignity and refinement quite surprising in people of their habits and situation, and the younger people I found could read and write, while several books of poetry in Spanish, and one or two illustrated French magazines, showed some disposition for and power of knowledge. Here it was decided that my present horses were utterly unfit to prosecute the long and tedious journey I had before me to Puerto Plata, and I therefore made my arrange- ments to discharge my guide Simon and the horses that had come all the way with us from St Domingo city, my host making arrangements to send me in the morning with his brother and two horses to the old town of Isabella or Laguna, PRIMITIVE SUGAR-MILL. 369 and everything being ordered for an early start in the morn- ing, I -was soon, after my long day's journey, sound in the most refreshing of slumbers in my hammock. I found in conversation with my host that, like all these Primitive Sugar-Mill. places, tobacco was the principal product, with the tano " for food ; but that everything could be grown easily in the way of sugar - cane, coffee, and chocolate, to say nothing of hundreds of smaller fruits and vegetables. I saw, on examining his sugar-mill, that it was of the rudest de- scription, a simple "trapiche" or wooden mill of three upright rollers of wood, worked by 2 A "pla- Sugar- Boilers. a one- 370 SANTO DOMINGO. horse power, the juice being conducted in a rude wooden trough to two small open-air boilers or pans of rude construc- tion, not holding, either of them, over ten gallons of juice, and from this there was manufactured a limited quantity of rum and syrup for home consumption ; and these were actually the only kind of sugar-mills I saw in operation in any part of my journeyings in St Domingo. These people, though probably of the most intelligent country class, seemed to have no idea of improved labour, of beautifying places, of increased comfort, or of solid, sub- stantial, nourishing food. They have never seen any better, they know no better, and I doubt if they desire better, unless example is set before them. I asked my host, as politely as I could, so as not to give offence, for the amount I was indebted to him for his hospitality, the food of my horses, ifec. " SeSor," said he, " I am a plain man; I know nothing of the customs of the world, and how a stranger should be treated as he deserves ; but I do what I know and feel. I have no account against you. There, you see, is the broad public road ; it comes very near my house, from which you can always see it. Whenever you come this way, and you want food and shelter either for yourself or your horses, believe me this house is yours just as much as it is mine, and you are welcome." So with a hearty shake of the hand, and laughing good- byes from eyes and lips of the bevy of women at the door, I rode off in charge of the brother of my host, with many " God speeds " and " Pleasant journej's." And this has invariably been my experience of the country people of St Domingo. Quiet and inoffensive, devoid generally of education, unaccustomed to the ways of the world ; yet they have always shown themselves hospit- able to a fault, as far as their means would permit ; and their natural intelligence and instincts are so good, that any one would be quickly undeceived who took them for PASS OF THE CAVALIERS. 371 fools, while readily receiving a lesson from them in quiet good-breeding. Puerta da los Hidalgos (Pass of the Cavaliers). 372 SANTO DOMINGO. Our road led through a beautiful rolling country, gradually ascending in its general tendency, being well wooded, with occasional open lands ; but the entire country being well adapted, I should think, to cane and coffee. There are two roads leading from this section over the mountains to the coast, one farther to the west, and the other the famous pass of Columbus, the " Puerta de los Hidalgos" (Pass of the Cavaliers), so named because when Columbus penetrated to the interior of the island, he came by this route, then the only one known ; and this was so difficult, that in order to permit their horses and supplies to be got through, the young cavaliers went to work, and with their «wn hands removed the rocks and cut away the iinderbush to open a passage ; and in honour of the energy manifested by these young soldiers, it received the above name. It was the first-made road in the New. World, and, as we found by experience, a fair type of the mountain roads of St Domingo. Soon after leaving Don Antonio's, we had struck a gradually ascending country, until we gained the mountain side, and struggled up nearly to the top. Here a rocky path, that looked as if it might be the bed of a mountain torrent, offered us the only means of descent; and this, the guide informed me, was the famous pass. Slipping and scrambling, now almost lying down on the horse's back, or again hugging his neck, we managed to get down somehow ; but the excitement and the grandeur of the scene repaid me for the apparent danger. The sides were mostly precipitous, while huge masses of rock lay scattered in wild confusion here and there in our path, which was covered on each side with trees and bushes, some of the former of enormous growth, the branches frequently meeting above our heads in such a way as almost to exclude the light of day. Through this wild path we came to a turn in the road, which exposed to our view, above the openings in the trees, the blue ocean of the WILD HOGS. 373 north coast. This was a peculiar sight, for standing as we were upon the top of the mountain, and looking over the vast extent of forest that intervened between us and the coast line, it curiously enough brought the blue waters of the sea apparently in a line with the tops of the trees, thus leading one almost to believe the intermediate space was some vast hollow inside of an immense embankment. The range of mountains upon which we now were are known as the Sierra, and run parallel with the coast, being of limestone formation, and with rather a scarcity of water, oifering no attraction to the miner. From its summit we now gradually descended by a rough road almost to the sea- shore, to the house of a countryman. We had passed mostly thus far a highly uneven, wooded country, fairly watered, until now we were on the bottom lands along the coast, where we met with plenty of natural clearings on the hillside or in the bottoms. Most of these were occupied by settlers, growing tobacco, coffee (wild), the plantain, and a great deal of fine cotton — fine staple and good length. One of these places presented quite an American appear- ance, the house having piazzas, and the first grape-vine- covered arbour I had seen on the island. The soil every- where was of the best black loam, unmistakable in its richness, and capable, as all the inhabitants told me, of producing everything in the shape of vegetation. All the people of this section devote themselves principally to the tobacco culture, paying no attention to cattle, though they own large numbers of hogs. These are allowed to run wild and take care of themselves, and this they have learned to do to such an extent, that every spot where there is anything planted has to be surrounded with a strong ■ fence of withes to prevent their entrance. The woods are full of these strange-looking animals, generally tall, gaunt, and wiry, quite savage in their nature ; and, as they rush out on the traveller as he rides through the forest, might easily be mistaken for the peccary. The flesh of these 374 SANTO DOMINGO. constitutes the only meat used by the people of this section. Wild Hogs. At our stopping-place for our mid-day meal, I was com- pelled to fall back upon my own resources, as the guide knew nothing of cooking any of the stores I had for that purpose ; and the bright-eyed hostess of the house where we stopped having apologised for having nothing to offer, and her culinary experience being confined to boiling or roasting a banana, or frying a piece of pork, looked with interest and astonishment at my successful operations for a meal, until, IMMENSE GROWTH OF TIMBER. 376 overcome by her curiosity, she exclaimed, " Dios, senor (Lord, sir), but you are a good cook ! " The sun was well above the meridian when we started for our night's destination — La Laguna, a settlement just the other side of the old site and Bay of Isabella, famous as the first place settled on the island by Columbus. Our road still lay in the bottom lands of the woods, the main road now and then being crossed by wide open swathes in the underbush running down to the seaside, used for roads by the mahogany-cutters in hauling down the huge logs of that wood, fustic, and other valuable woods, with which all this tract of country we passed through abounded. Many ot these pieces of wood we saw left half buried in the mud, some of the heavy rains having made the paths so muddy that it had been impossible to get the logs to the coast for trans- portation and shipment. All of this cutting is done with the rudest of implements, no saw whatever being used, and the pieces being simply hewn into rough logs of a size suitable for transportation. This shipping of mahogany is quite a business with the coast people, as they haul or float these logs down to some convenient bay or inlet, where small vessels or lighters convey them to the larger ports for shipment abroad ; and in some cases, where the size of the bay permits it, the large vessels themselves come up and load directly at the port. All of this soil of the bottom lands appears to be of the richest kind, resembling much the bottom lands of the Lower Mississippi, and equally favourable, I should say, for the cultivation of the cotton crop. Timber of every kind was met with in this region, some of which was of immense growth. One tree that we saw, called by the natives " Higo," had projecting from its trunk, higher than a man could reach, some twelve huge buttresses, and such was the spread of these, that a good sized tree was growing from between two of them. The parasites " Haguey " and " Cupey " we met with in 376 SANTO DOMINGO. Pardbilical Vines great nranber, botli in the form of the newly - grown vine and the more ma- tured tree, while the palm of every species was seen at every step. A new fra- grance saluted my nostrils in the most delicious of odours arising from the millions of a small flower growing on a bush, and called by the natives " Aroma," resemb- ling much in its odour our lilac, though the aroma is more delicate, the flower being of a small yellowish red colour. A pretty star -shaped flower that grew in pro- fusion also attracted my attention, the guide calling it "Dona Anna." Late in the afternoon, as we were within a short distance of the old settlement of Isabella, I was tempted by its THE TARANTULA. 2,11 historic associations to turn aside from the road and see what remained of it. There was absolutely nothing to repay me for my trouble, the place possessing no natural beauty, and the few ruins remaining having no particular form or meaning, being mostly covered with running vines and thick vegetation. With much difficulty can be made out where has run originally a small village street. Still it was something to see a place that was the first settlement of Europeans on the American continent, a place hallowed by the memories of association that Columbus' actual presence gave to it, and the few stones lying in mixed heaps perhaps having been parts of walls holding up the roof under which he himself may have sat. In such places the tarantula frequently makes its home ; and here for the first and only time I saw one of those horrible-looking spiders, whose numbers and bite have been so much overrated ; for I was told, and found it to be the case, they are not often met with; and if they do occa- sionally succeed in stinging some careless person, their bite is only painful, and never dangerous. The place to-day is as it was when its settlement took place, remarkable for its unhealthiness, a great deal of the "calentura" or fever of the country prevailing there, which, from its situation, I should judge could not be otherwise, as it is upon the side of a small river emptying into a small bay, the shores of which are low and somewhat marshy. Night overtook us before we came to the settlement (a very scattered one) of Laguna, and I had the misfortune Tarantula. 378 SARTO DOMINGO. to find also that the planter at whose house I had expected to stay was absent with all his family, and, at the sugges- tion of the guide, we pushed on a mile or two farther to the house of another planter, making our way through dusky ravines and thick-foliaged covered paths, fording also two or three streams, until, tired and sleepy, we were gladdened by the sight of lights in the house of our destination. This I found to be a large wooden house, set back from the road in a large savanna, around which was the usual fence of the country, with — remarkable to me, as I had not seen one, before in all my travels — a large double English gate, that opened and shut in the good old-fashioned way, instead of necessitating our taking down about twenty poles to get into the enclosure. The occupant of the house was a South Carolina mulatto, who had long lived out here, and was now engaged in trading with the country people for mahogany and other woods, and though he spoke very disparagingly of the habits of the people, he himself set no different example to them in his person and habits, for his estab- lishment offered nothing cleanly or attractive in its interior or exterior arrangements. His wife was swinging in a hammock, sick with the fever she told me, but he said she was only " playing off; " and judging from my after observation of her lazy, filthy ways, I should judge he was right. What perfectly helpless, useless people these women are, many of them ! They seem to be so utterly ignorant of everything a woman should know. Their housekeeping amounts to nothing; their cooking, simple as are the viands, is vile, and they appear to do nothing but loll in hammocks and smoke cigars. However, I have been too long in Dominica to be particular ; and my hammock being swung, I am soon in the land of dreams. With morning comes the announcement that one of our IMPROMPTU COOKING. 379 horses is knocked up, and I must hire another one, which has to be sent for to some distance ; so, availing myself of the time, I proceed to the river (Isabella) bank, and have a most delicious bath in its clear, swift-running waters, finishing which, I become interested in the food question, as nearly twenty-four hours have elapsed without my eating anything. " I have nothing," was the reply of my host to my question about food, " except plantains and slapjacks to give you." Now slapjacks are very well in the abstract, but when they are offered a hungry man as the subsistence upon which to prosecute a long and tiresome journey, they are bad, in point of fact. I therefore suggested that I had some remaining stores that might be turned to account if he had wherewith to cook them. He had the means, and they were at my disposal to cook to suit me, and thinking this was the safest way to avoid being poisoned by boiled lard, garlic, &c., I became immediately " chef de cuisine." I think my readers would have been astonished at the way my material was converted into a Dominican stew ; for rice, sardines, pickled salmon, canned tomatoes, stale bread, peas, claret wine, vermicelli, pepper and salt, and sauces all went into the soup-kettle, with what result I leave them to imagine, when I say that, after disposing of the soup from this " oUa podrida," and eating a large quantity of its more solid material, the balance was dis- posed of by every man, woman, and child on the place, who were called in to partake of the most luxurious feast they had ever seen ; in fact, my guide was so overcome by his share in the disposition of the viands, that he informed me confidentially I was the best cook he had ever seen, and that "American (?) cookery pleased him much." God help us, though ! A man, to travel in this country and keep his life, needs to be a little of everything, and for these people any good " square meal" would be as a new era in their lives. 380 SANTO DOMINGO. The horse arrives ; he has one eye and a sore back, but his four legs appear good. I have no choice ; I must reach Puerto Plata before next day, to meet the expected steamer, and I am told, with sharp riding, I can get there by mid- night, the distance being about forty miles. My guide swears it is impossible ; I cannot reach there until late next day ; the road is infernal, and that if I want to break my neck, all right, go on ; but he wishes to preserve his. We have much talk, and finally start together. I leave him behind on the road until my horse be- comes indiffer- ent to the spur, through weak- ness, as I think. I try coaxing, no use ; kicking, no go. I lead him, he makes me pull him ; and, becoming desperate, I lie down and go to sleep until my guide rejoins me. I curse him and the horse ; he laughs, and says it is an old trick of the horse ; he is lazy, and my spur not sharp ; tells me to mount, and hands me a switch, and, presto, what a change! I have just time to say " Good-bye — to-morrow in Puerto Plata " — and off I start ; and sure enough I never laid eyes on that guide again until next day I found him, late in the day, inquiring for a mad American, who, he was afraid, had come to grief on the road. And yet that was one of the most enjoyable rides I had in St Domingo, as far as the country was concerned ; for beautiful fields, deep, thick woods, good grassy slopes of road, succeeded by rocky precipices and mud paths, followed each other in rapid succession. Now I would be galloping Played out. BAJABONITA RIVER. 381 through some magnificent sweep of tableland, over grassy paths that led by a tobacco, plantain, or coffee patch; now I would be slowly picking my way down to some rapid river by its stony and precipitous bank, the rapid but clear waters of which had to be forded, sometimes saddle-flaps deep; then again I pulled up at some negro "bohio" (hut) to inquire my way — one thing never ceasing, and that was the movement of my switch either upon the body of the horse or before his eyes, the effect being good in either case. Before striking the Puerto Plata road I counted no less than ten rivers or turns of rivers that I had crossed, the water, without exception, being sweet, clear, and cold, and their beds usually gravel or small stone ; the banks, in many cases, being exceedingly precipitous. The principal one of these, and that I crossed several times, was the Bajabonita or Isabella, whose waters, though swift, were On the Bajabonita generally shallow, though, from the nature of its banks, it 382 SANTO DOMINGO. will be seen, in the rainy months, it can become like most others, very deep. In all of this north coast tract of country, from its rich soil, its fine climate, abundance of water, and general capacity to produce every tropical plant, I should say it was the most desirable part of the island, being exposed daily to the refreshing northern trade-winds. Once or twice I managed to lose myself in the multipli- city of the woodland paths ; but I was always set right in the kindest manner by the simple natives, whether black or coloured. I must confess, however, their ideas of dis- tance are limited, or very hard to extract from them. For example : — " How far is Puerto Plata from here ? " " Whew ! " and a long whistle. "Is it more than a league ? " " Yes, sir." " More than two leagues ? " " Oh, yes ; more, sir! " "Carajo! is it five, then?" " Well, when you have travelled five leagues you are pretty (cerquita) near it." Then I get mad, perhaps, and say, " Is it one day or two days' journey from here ? " " Oh, no, sir ; only three hours' ride," which is, perhaps, equal to twelve miles ; but that is the way all distances are judged on the island, so many hours from one place to another. As night draws on, I find myself entering the main road running from Santiago to Puerto Plata, just below the high point known as Altamira (High View). The scenery is grand in the extreme, though wild and picturesque ; great hills stretch away on every side, upon the tops of which are gathered the heavy clouds that forebode a tropical rain- storm, while even yet the sun is setting in magnificent glory. The road itself is fearful ; a mere ravine of melted clay, with rocks of all sizes tossed about apparently in THE REQUEROS. 383 volcanic confusion. Long trains of mules, laden with tobacco and fruit and solid bits of wood, can be seen here and there struggling, or falling, or picking their way down the road, the air made lively by the sounds of the requero (teamster) as he curses, directs, or implores his animals. Now it is a shout of " Bur-r-r-o " (" Oh, jackass! "), with a whack of his stick, or perhaps a scream at the top of his voice of " Ca-val-yo " (" You fool of a horse ! "), accom- panied with imprecations, as the animal, staggering under its heavy, awkward load, struggles from a bed of mire up to its very belly, or slips and falls upon some great rock ; the tune being entirely changed into that of a lively refrain by the swarthy driver as he and his mules strike some little bit of road barely passable and level. This is a ludicrous picture, looking at it in our way, to see these long trains of animals, many of the horses not as large as a good sized donkey, come struggling under their heavy loads through the mud, attended by a swarthy, tall, Indian-looking fellow, in a broad-brimmed-hat, shirt, and pants, and with a machete (sabre) almost as long as him- self strapped about his body, its curious scabbard hiero- glyphically marked, ending in a turn or twist similar to a lobster's claw ; but on these little horses, and with these strange men, come one of the greatest sources of the wealth of this island. These requeros are a special class, who devote themselves to the carrying trade between Puerto Plata and Santiago. They are a wild, rough set in their manners, and many of them said to be very wealthy ; but all living a frugal, hardy life, and, without exception, honest and reliable. In Puerto Plata, merchants told me they thought nothing of calling to any one of these men passing the door, and handing him a roll of money, say, " Give that to So-and-so in Santiago." " Write the direc- tion," would be the reply, and the exact money never failed to be properly delivered. Nevertheless there is fitting occasion here for the inter- 384 SANTO DOMINGO. Tention of the Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, for these patient beasts are most shockingly treated, beaten almost to death when wearied with their heavy loads, or having their rude pack-saddles placed upon backs that are so fearfully raw, a fresh palm-leaf needs to be laid on, even to bear the hitching of the saddle. Darkness and the pouring rain overtake me together half way down the mountain. My guide and baggage are miles behind, and will not probably be up in the rain to-night. I, however, struggle and fall and blunder on, trusting to the good sense of my horse to carry me through the dangerous places ; but at last, after sundry mishaps, I follow the advice and example of the " requeros," who have halted their teams to await either moonlight or day- break. Seeing a house by the side of the road, I ride up and say— " Buenas noches " (good night). " Good night, senor. Disipount." I explain how I am fixed, and am invited to enter and make myself as comfortable as I can. The same old story — a rude house on splendid land — a canuco of tobacco and plantains — not a thing to eat or to drink, in fact, and I look around for a place to sleep. Around three sides of the house runs a wide bench, upon this, one after another, the occupants spread their beds of undressed hides, and in a few moments are snorinsr. I ask for a hammock, which luckily they have, and in which, with hat, boots, and clothing still on, I throw myself, covered with mud, to get a night's rest. Day breaks, gloomy and damp. My horse unfed, except from browsing on the short grass, stands, wet from head to foot, more dead than alive, while I, " faute de mieux," make my breakfast oif an orange and a cup of coffee — all that my shelter affords. Saddling up, I am soon on the road again, and the sun ^ '-^V CONl'CO OF I'LANTAIK AND TOBACCO. PUERTO PLATA. 385 coming out, dispels the rain and gloom. All Nature smiles above and around; but in my path, running water, mud, broken rocks, and swollen streams, make it a narrow and crooked one indeed ; team after team I pass, all on their way to Puerto Plata — horses, mules, men, and women covered with mud ; the men barefooted and in shirts and pants; the women in a simple gown, which, rolled up pannier fashion on their persons, shows more of their form than decency requires. At last, from the mountain side, I get a view of Puerto Plata and its lovely bay far down in the plain below. Visions of a hotel rise up before me — dreams of a breakfast " a la fourchette " come quickly in my mind, to say nothing of anticipated delights in sporting once again " store clothes ; " and so I whip up my now nearly dead horse, until, attempting to pass a dangerous-looking quagmire, my horse rebels — whip and spur no use. Then two little negroes rush out, and caution me not to go there, as I can't get out. They point to another place that looks even worse. I try it, but my horse refuses it, even under pressure of spur and whip. Now, " horse sense " is considered good the world over : I have a great respect for it. Therefore I dismounted, fixed the reins to the cantle, and leaving my horse to his own judgment, I whacked away at him, until, becoming desperate, in he plunged at the designated spot, which proved to be a slough of liquid mud, breast deep. With fearful struggles he went through to the other side, while I picked my way on foot through the prickly hedge, con- gratulating myself on not having absorbed in my trousers and boots quantities of Dominican mud. Never did town look so charming in my eyes as did Puerto Plata that day, and it was truly a haven of rest to me in the days I passed there preparing my mails for the steamer, after whose departure I took passage in the Dominican man-of-war for Monte Oristo. This man-of-war 2b 386 SANTO DOMINGO. is simply a large fore-and-aft schooner, carrying a gang of thirty-five men, with one brass six-pounder gun, which the captain frankly told me he was afraid to fire off, fearful that it would " burst," or open the seams of his vessel. However, we had a pleasant sail up of eight hours from Puerto Plata. to Monte Cristo, keeping only a short distance from the shore, and affording me an opportunity of seeing the character of the coast of the interior of the country through which I had previously passed. Point Isabella. Cape Isabella now loomed out low and sharp against the high wooded walls that formed its other shore. Enter- ing the Bay of Monte Cristo in a strong gale under foresail and jib, we found a United States steamer, the Yantic; and as soon as we anchored. Captain Carpenter was good enouo-h to send a boat for me, and I was soon on board with a large mail-bag of letters for the officers and crew, to enjoy once again a Christian dinner. CHAPTER XX. ' The image of the jest I 'U show You here at large." — Merry Wives of Windsor. Journey to Hayti — " Cosa Dominica "—Dauphin Bay— Poor Accommodations — Tropic Night at Sea — A Cuban Horror^ Cape Haytian from the Sea — First Experiences in Hayti — Haytian Officials — Value of Haytian Currency — Advantage of being supposed a Ujiited States Commissioner. AN the afternoon of the 27th of March, finding there " was a small schooner to sail that night for Cape Haytian, though nominally for Turk's Island, I engaged passage in her. Matters were all arranged, baggage fully prepared, and the authorities notified of our intention. I was fortunate in having for my eompagnon de voyage a Cuban revolu- tionist, a colonel in the insurrectionary cavalry, who, having come up with me from Puerto Plata, was to accompany me to Hayti, and thence he was to go to Jamaica. Our passports and papers were pronounced all right by the commandant at Monte Cristo, who, with a thousand offers of service, and profuse promises that we could count upon him under any circumstances, bade us an impressive good-bye — this was about five o'clock in the afternoon. But greater enterprises have sometimes failed through 388 SANTO DOMINGO. smaller means than the lack of a cart (vide the saving of Rome), which came very near being the cause of our plans failing. At seven o'clock, being all ready, we desired to have our rather extensive baggage taken in a cart down to the schooner's boat, some distance from the village ; but upon sending for the cart, were informed that no vehicles w^re allowed to go through the town from sunset in the evening until daybreak in the morning. Of course, we thought this was a mistake as far as we were concerned, and accordingly sent word to the com- mandant (the same above alluded to) that it was for us and our baggage that the cart was desired. Word came back that it was against orders, and no cart could be permitted to pass, contrary to these instructions, through the village. Our host, a well-known merchant, and friend of the commandant, went himself to explain. It was no use, he returned unsuccessful. By this time we were boiling angry. Here was a man who, a few hours before, had vowed he would do anything in the world for us, and now refused even to let us have a cart, and to him I had had friendly letters, and official letters from the authorities, too ! By Jove ! it was too much. And still having in my pos- session a document from the Governor to " all authorities," ordering them to assist me, I "went for" the command- ant, found him with a crowd in a beer-shop, and calling him out, asked him what this all meant. He vowed again he would do anything in the world for me, but this he couldn't do, as it would cost him his straps. " Do you see this paper ? " I asked, flirting my order in his face ; " and do you not know its contents ? " " Oh, yes ; but I dare not give you the cart." " I do not ask it, sir," I said ; " I demand it. And do you tell me that, with this order, sent by your superior. DOMINICA AND HAYTI. 389 who is directed by his superior, the President of this island, that you, a subordinate, refuse to obey it? " " Well, sir, it would cost me my position." " Never mind your position. Will you obey it or not ? " I growled at him. " Well, sir, I will give you the cart, but it is I that will suffer. I do it on my responsibility, and I am willing to do anything to serve you." But here I cut him short, upon which he directed the officer of the guard to accom- pany us to the boat with the cart — " Cosa Dominica ! " Getting on board the vessel, we found her to be a small fore-and-aft schooner, manned by a captain and three men, all Jamaica negroes, speaking English, the cargo consisting of twelve oxen, which completely filled the small hold. The night was clear, and though the breeze had not yet sprung up, anchor was quickly weighed, sails set, and we slowly dropped out with the current from the Bay of Monte Cristo, the last hail being from Captain Carpenter of the Yantic, as we passed under her stern, wishing me a safe passage. Now, although no open war is declared between Dominica and Hayti, yet such are the relations existing between them, that no vessel is cleared from the ports of one to those of the other. Consequently, although it is perfectly understood by the authorities where this schooner comes from and goes to, her papers specify that she sails under the English flag for Turk's Island. Only a few days before, however, a young American merchant, having business in Hayti, had chartered a small boat to take him up to Cape Haytian, or the " Cape," as it is called, some United States despatches being sent at the same time. When the boat arrived, however, at the Cape, the owner was taken and imprisoned for several days, being finally set free, and told to return to Monte Cristo, with the remark, that the next time he brought American despatches he would be hung. However, we are slowly 390 SANTO DOMINGO. drifting along on the now still ocean, not a puff of air being felt, and so we go below in hope to use the pigeon- hole of a cabin for sleeping. Vain hope ! At any time it is small ; but now, with the heat and the stench from twelve oxen coming through the partition, we are driven on deck. Here we tried to sleep on the narrow space by the com- panion-way, but our attempts were unsuccessful ; and while dozing I was constantly threatening to roll off into the sea; and notwithstanding the captain assured me that I would wake up before "touching water," we finally amused ourselves with conversation. Long hours my Cuban friend and I passed in talk about his island and its revolution, with the prospects of its con- tinuation and success, from which I gathered their prospects were never better, and, without any immediate chance of the revolution ending, it still was rather increasing than decreasing, and likely to be prolonged for years in the section of the island of which they are now masters. Seeing that I was familiar with his country, he confided to me many details of the revolution ; but one account he gave me that still placid night, with the stars looking gently down upon the same calm waters that washed his own sunny isle, I shall not forget. The Colonel had been sent, when quite a young man, first to England and then to Germany to be educated, studying in both these places, and finally in France. Pos- sessed of large means, he had returned to Cuba and entered largely into business just before the breaking out of the insurrection, in which he took part of his own free will, leaving his father, an old man of many years, on the plantation, and indifferent to the cause. After long, long months of absence of toil and fighting, the Colonel, it so happened, was passing in the vicinity of his father's house; and halting his troop at a distance, not wishing to compromise his father, he himself sought an interview, which he succeeded in obtaining; and on A CUBAN HORROR. 391 taking his departure, •with a curious presentiment, he asked the old man's blessing. Joining his troop, they rode on to their camping- place, in which they had hardly heen installed when a messenger, an old servant of the Colonel's, arrived to say that the Spaniards having shortly after followed the Colonel to his father's house, had accused him of holding communication with his son. The old man, while disowning any improper motives, acknowledged his son had been there and received his blessing; and the Spaniards, infuriated at this news, set fire to the out-buildings, and told the old man they would kill him. On receiving this news the Colonel, with his troop, rode as fast as their horses could carry them ; but arrived at the plantation too late, only to find "What?" I asked, as soon as I saw the relator had recovered from his emotion. " The out-buildings burned to the ground, and in the hall of my father's house, the old man lying with his skull split open, and his grey hairs soaking up the blood!" Then he told me how he and his troop, having each taken a solemn oath, followed up that party day after day, occasionally capturing a straggler, until, by a successful ambush, he succeeded in capturing the whole party, some fourteen in number, with their officer. " What became of them ? " I inquired. " Having hung them to as many trees, we passed our sabres through their bodies, and left them to serve as warnings." Tired out watching for the breezes that came not, we selected the softest planks on deck and turned over, rather than in, to sleep. Daybreak found us still off Manzanillo Bay, " a painted ship upon a painted ocean," for not a breath had we of wind: and this was provoking indeed, for the Cape is 392 SANTO DOMINGO. only sixty miles from Monte Cristo, and the voyage is usually made in a few hours, we having expected to reach there hy daybreak; and not a mouthful of food of any kind was there on board that we could possibly swallow. As the sun rose the wind sprung up a little, and we slowly gained headway, drifting rather than sailing, within sight of another of those beautiful bays for which this island is famous, that of Dauphin Bay. Dauphin Bay. This, it is said, is one of the most beautiful ports in all St Domingo, being able to contain a great number of vessels, closed as in a basin— the entrance being gained by a canal only a quarter of a league from side to side, which, at the bottom, opens into two wide bays, where are several islets, close to which there is water enough to careen vessels ; these also can anchor close to land. The bottom is good everywhere. There is also a river emptying there, which, though deep, is brackish. This bay is on Haytian territory, having upon its shores a fort known as Fort Liberty, which forms a frontier post. About eleven o'clock the trade-winds blew fresh and strong, and our little boat flew over the waters like a bird, until the prominent hills of the Haytian shore that marked GAPE HAYTIAN. 393 the location of the Cape grew bolder and bolder, and -we could even see the white walls of the town on the very edge of the sea. Twelve o'clock found us running close in to the shore, examining with eager interest the walls of the old Fort Picolet at the very entrance of the bay, until a short time after found us at anchor directly opposite the custom-house wharf, with mind intent on shore and breakfast. Alas ! vain hopes. It was the hour of siesta ; offices and stores were closed, and no officials were seen. We proposed to go ashore on our own responsibility, but to this the captain would not consent, as he was liable to Cape Haytian from the Sea. a fine, telling us we must wait patiently until two o'clock, when the officers would be on board. To us, with hungry stomachs, the minutes seemed like hours ; but at last— oh, happy sight !— there put out from the captain of the port's office, a mile up the beach, the customs boat. Nearer, yet nearer came the boat, until, about opposite the custom-house, it put in there— right 394 SARTO DOMINGO. under our very eyes, and this, too, after our waiting nearly two hours ! Ah ! dear reader, did you ever hear any real, right-down honest swearing? If not, then you should have been on board our schooner that moment. We had barely recovered our breath when the boat at last came off to us — a boat big enough for the cutter of a frigate, with the crew of a lame negro, a small boy, and a half small boy, while in the stern, in the shelter of a torn rag tied to a broken pole, sat two young, gaping fellows, with sallow complexions, who we were told were the officers. The sarcasm of my remark to them, " That their break- fast must have been a good one, they were so long at it," I am afraid was lost upon them, as we hurried into their boat to be pulled up to the landing of the afore - mentioned captain of the port. Here we were received by another pallid speci- men of humanity in the shape of an old, weazen-faced, dried-up official, who, with a slow and stooping gait, pot- tered around, until, reck- less with hunger and rage, we howled at him to hurry up his move- ments, as we were nearly famished. I thrust my passport in his face The Nondescript. ^^ askcd me my name I told him to read it ^ he said we must wait for his secretary; we swore we EXPERIENCES IN HATTI. 395 wouldn't — we wanted our Consul and our breakfast; until, poor man ! frantic with indecision, lie commenced writing our names down on stray scraps of paper, and then calling a nondescript sort of youth, who happened to be passing by, bade us go with him to the " General de la Place." If ever there was murder near being committed, it was upon that youth that morning. Up one street and down another in the hot sim, by piles of ruins overgrown with vines, through streets that looked as if there were no sound habitation in them, until, hot, hungry, and savage, he brought us back to within a square or two of whence we started, to the office of the government interpreter; where, thinking this was a ruse for fees, we vowed we could talk every language under the sun, and didn't want his services ; but the captain of the schooner it seemed did. Then that youth made a sign to follow him again, but I laid my hands upon him and asked him " Did he wish to live any longer?" He bowed a scared assent, and muttered something like " General de la Place; " but I made him understand his only hope consisted in getting us there by the shortest route. He " lived the other side of the town," was his reply. Yes, I should think he did, that mahogany-coloured, bald-headed, spectacled, wiry old cuss, with his begilded old swallow-tailed uniform coat ; and he might just as well have gone up to the top of the mountain with his office as far as we were concerned, for we couldn't have been more nearly dead than we were when we arrived there. He was a courtly old fellow, I will say that for him, this " General de la Place ; " and I was so far mollified by his gentlemanly manner as to address him an appeal in French that he would facilitate our progxess as quick as possible, as we had not partaken of food for twenty-four hours. 396 SANTO DOMINGO. " Tou' cT suite, monsieur," was his reply, smilingly given. After a few questions and some notes by his secretary, a spectacled old negro, the General bowed us out, our troubles being over, as we thought, until we heard this old hypocrite say to the guide, " Bureau of Police." Utterly overcome at this, I supported myself against a wall, and glaring upon the uniquely costumed guide, I insisted upon knowing exactly how far we had to go yet, and in what direction. If there was any more places besides the " Bureau of Police " to visit, I declined posi- tively to go, unless they took me as a criminal to one of their prisons, where, in any event, they would have to "feed" me; but, as a free and mighty American citizen, travelling in a country at peace with my own nation, I pro-test-ed. It will hardly be believed, but that youth grinned! Yes, I repeat it — actually grinned in my face, and muttered, " Eepublique (?) d'Haiti," as he pointed to himself. By Jove ! I wish he had been, for I think then and there the glorious Eepublic of Haiti would have become utterly extinct, never more to be found upon the school-maps to puzzle the brain of our young (and some old) scholars as to whether it was a separate island or not from St Domingo. The " Bureau of Police " looked more like a horse-stable, with its dirty guardroom and rusty old muskets, and dirty, ragged negro guard. The " chief" and his aide, coal-black negroes clad in blue denims stiff with starch, received us, asked us impertinent questions, which I cut short by poking my passport at him. He laid it on the table, leaned over it, examined it, turned it over, and then fell to studying it for some minutes, after which he looked at me and said — " Your name?" " You have it there before you," I replied. HAYTIAN PASSPORT. 397 " What 's your business ? " " To get your vise on that passport, and something to eat, as quick as the Lord will let us," I responded, at the same time informing him I was an American citizen, as that paper showed, and if there was any more delay I should place myself under the protection of my Consul, and let him attend to my business. The chief fell to studying the paper again, but finally ejaculated, " Half-a-dollar," at which the captain of the vessel protested, telling me it had never been exacted before, but I however put the money down, on which the " chief" handed me my document. This was a little too aggravating, and therefore I re- marked, " Eh bien, mon ami, you have read my paper, for which I make no charge ; but for this half-dollar, you must earn it by giving me your autograph, or a stamp, or a seal ; " to which he muttered, ' ' Mais oui," " Mais oui ; " and having examined all the others, he scrawled some hieroglyphics over them and declared we could go. " Anywhere ? " I ask, " no more officials to visit ? " " Non, non, monsieur." " Le bon Dieu soit benit ! " we utter and leave. " To the hotel," we savagely say to the youth with the " casquette de-paille." " It is closed, busted — there is none," is the reply ; at which imagine our " pheelings," sympathising reader ! From the previous day up to noon of this day, not a mouthful of food; from noon up to evening waiting on these officials, and yet no food — and now no hotel ! Happy thought! To the Consul, whom luckily we find at home. He immediately sallies out with us to hunt up at a billiard-bar-room and cafe a place where we could be entertained (?) after a fashion — where they owned just one bed, and this I magnanimously gave up to my com- panion, as I still had my trusty hammock, which I was permitted to hang in an arch of the courtyard, where the 398 SANTO DOMINGO. Consul left us to " go through " that landlord's bill of fare from beginning to end. "What will you have?" he asks. " Everything, anything, beer, bread, fruit, cheese, bring it all at once ; " and no Haytian before or since has appeared so charm- ing as did the attendant as he promptly complied with our command. Our menu for dinner was composed more leisurely and in a better frame of mind ; but revenge is sweet, and my slumbers were sound that night. Why? Because, just as I was rolling myself up in my bag, the landlord asks, " Are you a United Haytiaa Waiter. States Commissioner ? " "Bother! No; goodnight." " Well, the authorities think you are, and have doubled the guards to-night." '''' Akf mais bon soir, voisin." " The Paris of the West Indies." Well, it may have been in times gone by, but to day it can hardly be entitled to that name, unless on account of its ruins. With a class of people like the old polished French planters of the " ancien regime," this town may have possibly been all that the historians say it was, for as far as nature is concerned the place is lovely indeed. The good God has done everything for it ; but now, with these semi-barbarians, it has been for years retrograding in civilisation and improvement. EXPENSIVE DRINK. 399 As a panacea for the evils of my first day in Hayti, I awoke to find myself suddenly a millionaire. Yes, it is the truth ; for in one day I was transformed from " an humble correspondent," with a few hundreds in good solid gold, to be a " commissioner " with $200,000 at my control. But let me explain. My first act on rising on this magnificent morning of my second day in Hayti was to adapt myself to the custom of the country and ask for a "cocktail." I got it; I drank it. I had no fault to find with it, for it certainly was well fabricated. " How much ? " I asked. " Thirty dollars, monsieur." I start back horror-struck. Thirty dollars for a drink ! I see it. I am a poor, miserable American, disowned by his Government, in a foreign land, and these barbarians know it, and now they want to swindle me. But the old spirit of '76 comes strong upon me, and I get reckless. I vow I will not pay it; and drawing from my pocket a silver coin of the realm of America, value ten cents, I declare it is all the money I have. To my amazement the mild barkeeper says, " I haven't the change, sir." Ah ! I begin to see it ; and with a princely air I say, " Oh ! keep the change," as I walk to the door in a digni- fied manner ; but once out, I walk, yea, I run. Where ? To my bankers, upon whom I have a letter of credit for a few hundreds. I present the letter. " Do you want it all now, sir ? " "Yes," I say, in a careless, easy manner, "if con- venient." (I think I see now the cause of the peculiar twinkle in that clerk's eye. ) " It will take us some time, sir, to get it ready. Please amuse yourself for half-an-hour or so." So I kick my heels against a large box of American soap. I whistle; the minutes go by ; I light a cigar and 400 SANTO DOMINGO. stroll out to the door ; it looks like business, for many- carts are gathering around the square. I stroll on the quay, and am stopped by a dirty-looking negro with a club, a shirt, and a portion of pantaloons, who says, " You can't go there ! " " Who are you ? " I ask. " One of the guard." I am scared; I back out, and attempt to slip around the corner, where I hear shouted at me — " Que bagage ta ? " I turn, I tremble, my knees bend, for there, mounted before me (to be sure, the donkey is very small, even if it has large ears), is a mighty warrior in cocked-hat, with befrogged and gilded swallow-tailed coat, cotton pants (nigger stripe), and though he has no shoes, he wears a spur : therefore I know he must be a general, for his sword is large. I salute with respect (I missed being a general once myselfj, when I hear a laugh and the re- mark, " Don't lose time on that fellow; he's only a guard." Mortified, I attempt to cross the street ; it is blocked up with mules and donkeys heading one way. I turn down another street ; it is the same. I think this a nice active place for business, and turn into the street leading to my bankers' ; it is filled with donkey-carts, drays, mules, and horses with panniers and carts drawn by bullocks. I think this must be an unusual day in business, perhaps a market-day. " What does all this mean ? " I ask of a sable cart- man, in my best French. " Ca — 00 — dee," he replies. I try it again. " Que bagage," is the response. Now, as I haven't any baggage with me, I am at a loss to know what it means, when happily an English-speaking person steps up and says, " I guess you don't understand creole, and these fellows don't speak French." I ask him then what all this means. He replies, "It is the United States Com- HAYTIAN PAPER MONEY. 401 missioner drawing a draft in Haytian money, and these carts are to load up with it." " Why, that is funny," I replied ; " I thought I was the only strange American here, and the Commissioners had all gone home." " No ; this one got in last night from Monte Cristo." " Oh, dear ! " I began to feel so queer that I just had strength enough to fall in at the door of a cafe, and say " Beer ! " (You know everybody drinks ale here, or, as it is called, " beer.") Thus strengthened and encouraged, I sought my bankers, and asked, as well as the crowd will permit, " Is that ready ? " They call me into the private office, and ask, " Now, what are you going to do with all this money? Where are you going to put it ? Because we have a large warehouse here, and will store it cheap for you." " Oh, oh ! " I begin to think my mind is going, but yet gasp out, "■ What does all this mean? " " Why, don't you see? You present your draft, and say you want the money. Now, the only money they have here is the paper money of the country ; it is to-day worth $400 in paper for $1 in gold, and if you draw your $200,000, it will take all these carts and mules to carry it ; and if you will be advised by us, you will leave your draft here, and draw the money as small as possible, as you want it ; therefore let us send these carts away while you take ' a beer.' " I took the beer. CHAPTER XXL ' All heroes are alike : the point 's agreed ; From Macedonia's madman to the Swede.' Cape Haytian — The Paris of the Weft Indies — Populatio7i, Commerce, &'c. — Ruins of French Civilisation — Beautiful Views — Fear of American Encroachments — Duplicity of Offi- cials — Arbitrary Government — Trip to Milot — Scenes on the Road — Arrival at Sans Souci — Strange Treatment — Polite Officials — " Taking" the Citadel — Cristophe the Emperor — Horrible Cruelties — Views of the People — Return to the Cape. rpHE town of Cape Haytian is to-day, though one of the -*- oldest towns on the island, a city of ruins. Settled originally by the " filibusters " from the Island of Tortuga, it would seem as though fate had decreed that it should be the objective point of the raids not only of foreign " fili- husters," but of native enemies also. First settled in 1670 by the buccaneers, its history shows a sad record of mingled progress and ruin, of great riches and extreme poverty, and finally of devastation by God and man. This is the original " Guarico " of the Spaniards ; then Cape Francis of the French ; more lately Cape Henry, after Cristophe ; and now usually Cape Haytian, though known simply as " The Cape." Lying at the very foot of some noble mountains that stretch boldly out into the sea, and form a prominent landmark to the mariner, it is to-day, approaching it from THE PARIS OF ST DOMINGO. 403 the sea, a lovely spot, as first seen from the deck of a vessel. A deep curve iu the coast line forms a fine baj"^, upon which rests the gaily-coloured walls and roofs of the town in a long, narrow plain, running from the coast back to the verdure-clad hills, which form such a superb back- ground to the picture. Across the bay, and opposite the town, stretches away a vast plain, that ends only at the base of a range of mountains that nearly mark the boundary line between Dominica and Hayti, and the view in every direction is charming in the extreme. The town has been at one time an extremely well-built city, with houses entirely of stone, well-paved streets, large public square, and fountains and churches, grand and innumerable, and of the highest char- acter of architecture, bearing even to-day traces of having been the handsome place that St Mery describes so minutely as existing before 1789. Before the revolution that separated the island from France, this town had become the centre of commerce, and such was the degree of luxury and refinement to which its inhabitants had reached, it was everywhere spoken of as the Paris of St Domingo. Its misfortunes began in 1793, when it was burned in the troubles among the revolutionary chiefs ; again by the French fleet; and that old Turk, Cristophe, also laid it in ashes. For many years it struggled along in improvements, and many handsome houses and buildings were rebuilt, until in 1842 the terrible earthquake that visited the island laid almost the entire city in ruins, burying under its walls thousands of persons, while whole families were swallowed up, and became extinct in the catastrophe. The country people came in crowds into the town and gave themselves up to pillage, plundering the houses and the inhabitants without hesitation ; and when remonstrated with, they with imprecations remarked, " It is our time now," and their 404 SANTO DOMINGO. numbers were so great, that no general resistance could be made to their maraudings. To-day the street parallel with the sea is tolerably well built, mostly with large and substantial storehouse dwell- ings of the foreign merchants, and throughout the town sub- stantial stone dwellings and wooden buildings are mingled promiscuously with the ancient ruins. A more romantic place for the artist's study it would be ' IJord de Mer.' hard to find ; and one can traverse square after square of crumbling ruins of stone, can walk through narrow paths that once have been stately streets, and see on every side arches, pillars, balconies, groined walls, and niches over which is growing and running the luxuriant vegetation of the tropics, while in the interior of courtyards, and what have once been halls and saloons, many finished in marble or solid stone, are growing the full-aged cocoa, banana, palm, and other trees, and in and about some of the FOREIGN POPULATION. 405 public squares are ruins of noble churches and convents, even yet beautiful and majestic in their decay. Of the inhabitants, the larger portion are black — -jet black; and then come the mulattoes of various degrees of colour, a few native whites, and then the foreign popula- tion, by which latter class is mostly transacted the com- merce of the place, which consists in exporting coffee and logwood, and the importing of provisions, dry goods, hardware, soaps, &c., a large portion of which come from A Mercantile House, the United States, particularly the common dry goods— the whole of the country people being, in fact, clad in the blue denim of the Amoskeag Company of New England. Many of these foreign merchants live in a very great deal of style and luxury, occupying generally the rooms over their warehouses, many of which, those especially in the upper part of the town, are very handsome, solidly- built establishments, showing at once what the cities of 406 SANTO DOMINGO. this island would become if there were peace and a safe government. What the great bulk of the black population does for a livelihood I was unable to find out, for they were principally occupied in " loafing " while I was there, though a great many of the women keep small stores for the sale of fruits, notions, Ac. The only active workers that I saw were those along the shore engaged in loading and unloading vessels, and these seemed to be as quick and steady in their labours as any one could desire; and as they are paid promptly by the foreign merchants who employ them, I am led to believe that a good deal of the inertness of the people of this island is simply owing to the uncertainty of being paid. This seems always to be present to the mind of the Haytian of the lower class. I have had a fellow carrying my trunk on his head stop short, and turning to me, say, " You pay me ? You sure you pay me ? " Again I have seen them, when I asked a service of them, shake their heads dubiously. " Why, I will pay you for it," I would say. " Will you, then? Well, pay me now, and I '11 do it." And doing this, I had no reason to complain. But, from tradition and experience, these poor ignorant people seem to have a bad opinion of the white man, to whom they still apply in a general sense the term mechant (wicked). As a type of the way in which they work at their ease, I was struck with the process of building a house two stories in height. Part of the second story being already built, one of the workmen seated himself in the scaffold of the upper window, and received the bricks thrown to him one by one by the man below, still another one being ready to take them from the hands of the first and lay. them down for him. It would be a nice calculation to know how long it would take, at this rate, to build a three-story brick-house. OLD FRENCH PLAGE. 407 The town is an extremely interesting one to the casual traveller fond of historical researches, and the natural beauties of the surrounding country are so great, that many beautiful rides can be taken on horseback in the vicinity. One of these, to a place called Marchegal, is particularly interesting, affording an opportunity of seeing a large por- tion of the town itself; and then, mounting up by a lovely road on the mountain in rear of the town, affording a superb view of the plain, and the town with its bay, the plain Old French Place, beyond, and the mountain range still further off, upon one of the peaks of which can be distinctly seen the celebrated Citadel of Cristophe. From this old place of Marchegal can be obtained some idea of what this country was in its civilised days; for here may yet be seen stone terraces, stone walls of solid archi- tecture, drains of mason-work, stone baths, and remains of beautiful gardens and improved agriculture ; all, alas ! now sunk in ruins. A few days' sojourn will exhaust the attractions of the 408 SANTO DOMINGO. city ; but half a day's journey from the Cape, towards the Dominican frontier, lies, in a charming valley, the little village of historic fame known as Milot, celebrated as the residence of King Cristophe. If the reader has ever heard anything at all of Hayti or its history, he will have heard of this celebrated negro, and the wondrous palace of " Sans Souci " he built for his royal dwelling, while on the mountain is the equally famed " Citadel." Before visiting the island I had read of these wondrous places ; and in my various travels in St Domingo, whenever '' The Cape " and Hayti were mentioned, these places were spoken of as something fabulous, that were well worthy of a visit. As no travelling is allowed in the island without passes, I called our Consul to my assistance, and determined to visit these places ; and he was kind enough to make applica- tion to his friend, the General of the province, Alexis Nord, for a permit for me to visit the Citadel and Sans Souci at Milot, which was apparently granted. Here it is, translated from the original, forcibly iWasirzimg free Hayti, a regular written document on a printed form : — Liberty* Equality. Fratemiiy. No. Eepdblio or Hatti, Cape Hattian, 31st March, 1871, 68th year of IndependeDce. Nord A lexis. General of Division, Aide-de-camp of his Excellency the Presi- dent of Hayti', and Commandant of the Department of the North. Permit to Mr Hazard, American subject, to go to Milot, accompanied by a guide, to attend to his business. Be is recommended to the kindness of the authorities. NoRD Alexis. Meanwhile some friends, hearing of my intention, decided to make up a party to accompany me, and invitations were given by them and accepted, without it being stated parti- cularly that I was to be of the party, which was composed principally of foreigners. * The italics are the authcjr's. NATIVE GUIDE. 409 It will hardly be believed, but when it was known that I was to be of the party, they all backed out, because I was an American and reputed Commissioner, and my company was not deemed safe. For such is the state of fear in which the country is kept, and so arbitrary are the acts of the Government, that foreign merchants even do not feel safe, and, therefore, are careful not to compromise themselves in any way. Pleasant company is always agreeable; but still I was determined not to lose my trip, notwithstanding the lugu- brious accounts given me of the danger I ran; so, casting about, I began negotiating for a guide and a horse. The first appeared in the person of " William," a graceful native, accomplished in the languages of Eng- lish, Creole, and broken French. Hardly yet accustomed to the cur- rency of the island, I was somewhat taken aback at the sum he required for his services, $2000 (£400); but with the aid of pencil and paper and a close cal- culation, I made out the net amount would just be five dollars of real money ; so he was at once engaged. All efforts proved fruitless to hire a horse for myself, though the wmiam. guide was more fortu- nate ; and I was compelled eventually to accept the offer ot one from a friend. Then William failed me : first it had 410 SANTO DOMINGO. been the horse ; then he wished to indulge himself in a spree; then he appeared before me in a costume that fore- boded rain ; until, tired of delay, I named the hour at which I should start with or without him ; but I finally succeeded in getting off, quite late one afternoon, with my guide, both mounted, and he carrying my hammock and some few stores. Out through the north-eastern gate we rode past the sentry — who, on my asking him a question, politely replied, " Give me a dollar!" — to a broad, hard road, bounded on one side by the savanna, while back from the other rolled beautiful ascending land to the very mountain, while all along were the usual one-storied wooden-houses — the land, although in such close proximity to the city, being generally uncultivated. Just outside the city gates, beside the public road, where thousands and thousands of people are continually passing, is a large potter's field, where diseased cattle are taken and left to die and rot, while in the same place is put the house- hold furniture of those who die of yellow fever. Passing by this lot, you see the whitening bones and skeletons of defunct animals, and tables and chairs, and even mattresses, left there intact to impregnate the air with the seeds of contagious disease, when a simple bonfire of the articles so infected would remove the revolting sight and prevent all danger. But such is sanitary law in this en- lightened (?) Republique d'Haiti. " William," I discovered, had some difficulty in keeping up with me, so I awaited his arrival, and then discovered he was very drunk, being constantly tumbling from his horse. In explanation he endeavoured to convince me that it was the " fool of a horse," that would not keep in the road ; but ordering him to go ahead of me and lead the animal, it was very quickly seen which would not keep straight. SCENES ON THE ROAD. 411 However, we made progress, though a slow one, and for the first few miles I was struck with the great difference in population between Hayti and Dominica ; for while in the latter part you rarely meet any one in the road, here ■were crowds of negroes, men and women, on foot and on horseback, all going to or from the city with produce or supplies. The road, too, was a hard gravel-and-sand road, per- fectly practicable for carts and vehicles ; and three miles out we came to a solid stone bridge over a small stream, Squatters in Ruined Places. the parapets of which were in ruins, though the causeway was good. I ask, " Who built it ? " ''The French," is the reply. They don't built bridges now-a-days. For some distance our road ran through rather a barren tract, and then turning off, we struck most beautiful prairie land, only cultivated here and there with the plantain patch, while on the sides of the road grew thick the logwood originally planted by the French for hedges. 412 SANTO BO MINGO. Or, again, we passed fields of what looked like bushes or scrub timber, so thick was it, and which I found was the coffee, left to grow wild and be choked up with rank vege- tation. A sad, sad sight, too, were the ruins of gateways and houses with which we met at alinost every step. All of them, were of the most solid kind of masonry, the gate- posts in many instances being of solid stone and of carved work, while the houses gave signs of having been large and stately mansions ; but all, all were crumbling to decay. It required no great stretch of imagination to picture this section of country before the Eevolutiou, when this whole plain, with its handsome houses, superb plantations, and well-kept hedges, presented the appearance of a vast and beautiful flower-garden. I found the country well cut up by good roads, that originally appeared to have been solidly constructed with stone, and ditches were in many places dug on each side, while stone culverts and drains gave evidence that at one time civilisation had had some share in the improvement of the country. I was particularly interested in seeing this ; for often I had thought it would be impossible to make roads or keep them in order in such a country as Dominica, and here I had new evidence that it was not only possible, but easy to make and drain good reads. Constantly before us in the turns of the road we saw the blue hills of our destination, seeming almost to recede as we advanced, conspicuous, however, on one of which were the sheer walls of the Citadel. Night was closing in on us as we struck a more fertile country, where the cane was cultivated in large fields, and where occasional groves of coffee were met with in uncared- for luxuriance. More than this, too, we passed for miles through groves of the guava, whose yellow fruit, just ripen- ing, filled the evening air with the most fragrant, delicious, almost suffocating perfume. VILLAGE OF MILOT. 413 Xow, in almost every direction, we saw the glow of fires in the different fields ; and it needed not to ask the cause of this, for the night air was heavy with the odorous fumes of the cane-juice, which they were boiling in their rude way to make sugar and rum. Then a tough bit of road, and we began our ascent by a rocky road on the mountain or hill that intervenes before reaching Milot; but directly we descended again, and there, calmly lying in the moonlight, was the village of Milot in its beautiful plain, while beyond it were the gloomy hills of the Sierra, as a background to the immense walls of the far-famed palace of Sans Souci, that even in the night were remarkable in the grandeur of moonlight and deep shadow. We asked at several houses for shelter, but there seemed something wrong, as no one was inclined to grant it, a pro- ceeding very unusual in these regions. Finally I ask for the Commandant, and am directed to the quarters on the hill. I ask for the General ; he is away, but his subordinate comes forward and asks what I want, though he seems to know already that I am an American. He says he has no quarters. I tell him he must find them. He says, " My orders don't call for that" (he hasn't looked at them). I tell him he had better read them. Says he can't, but will see the General's secretary ; and we start out to hunt him up, until I tell him, " Never mind ; get us into any house." He insolently says he can if I will pay, which of course I tell him I expect to do. Meanwhile one woman, more hospitable than the rest, says I may swing my hammock in her house if I like, as " she loves the Americans ; they saved her life." Considerably puzzled, I dismount, and when our arrangements are all made, I get from her that a messenger came up before me to say that an American was coming up to " take " the Citadel. I laughed heartily, until it was explained that they were afraid that I came to make plans of the fort so that we could come and take it. 414 SANTO DOMINGO. I went to my bag for the night, laughing at the idea these people had of the Yankee nation, and was roused up at an early hour in the morning by my guide, who said the subaltern had sent word that I must get up at once, see the town and the palace, and go about my business, as my order permitted nothing else. Pretty mad, I sent him my compliments, requesting him to visit a place not in the Arctic regions, and, turning over, went to doze again. When I awoke, I found the General had returned, and sent me a com-teous message that he was sorry he had not been there the previous night, as he would have furnished me comfortable quarters, and requesting me to call on him as soon as convenient. Breakfast over, I went up to his quarters, and found him to be a perfectly black, ordinary negro, but speaking pure French well. I showed him my order, and told him I wished to visit the historic Citadel. This he said I could not do. I quoted my order to him, and we had some angry words together, ending in my tell- ing him I should hold him responsible to his superior for not complying with instructions. Then at last it all came out — the vile duplicity of these people and their rulers ; for this very Alexis Nord, after apparently complying with the request of the Consul, had sent a messenger on ahead of me to give other instructions. Naturally, I was pretty mad, finding, after my trouble and expense, the objects of my journey were only to be partially accomplished, and I took the liberty of telling " the General " some views I had about savages. I had, of course, no right to find fault with being kept out of any place, particularly a fortress, for every Government has a perfect right to exercise its own judgment in admitting strangers to such places ; and had I been the only foreigner to whom was refused this permission, it would still have been far from me to find fault. I-'P, ■';3^:''\ PALACE OF SANS SOU CI. 415 But this was not the case, as I understood the Citadel had been quite frequently open to the inspection of foreign visitors ; but of the deception practised, and the discourtesy shown to the Government of which I was a citizen, I think I had just right of complaint, though I have since learned that no nationality is exempt from these petty displays on the part of Hayti. However, I made the best of a bad bargain, and started with a guard to view the principal object of interest, the " Palace Sans Souci," and a superb palace it must have been in its time. Imagine a long, narrow, lovely valley clothed in verdure, shut in by high hills, and ending at one end in a gently-rising knoll that blocks up the narrow ravine between two grand high mountains, the precipitous faces of which seem the walls of a natural fortress, and you have an idea of the natural location of the palace. The palace of Sans Souci was constructed by Henry Cristophe, the King of the North, upon the brow of the hill of the village of Milot, then an old sugar estate. The site was well chosen, because there was a superb view of the valley below and the hills around, while it (the palace) was imposing and grand. Its original plan was primitive, but was successively increased, and thus its architecture is irregular. There was a rez-de-chaussee or basement, then a second story and a belvidere, or look-out, from which superb views were obtained. Upon the right was the throne-room, and below was a circular church used by Cristophe and his family ; upon the left was the terrace of Caimito, so named from a large tree of that species that overshadowed it. Then some large dwellings for the officers and secretaries, while adjoining these were solid buildings for sheltering the many carriages and equipages of the King. Behind the palace were large gardens filled with flowers, fruits, and vegetables, while water ran down in cascades from the neighbouring moun- tains. Ranged above the main palace were buildings used 416 SANTO DOMINGO. as storehouses, arsenals, barracks, &c., for the military, while printing-offices, the mint, and offices added to their extent and number. Most of these buildings are still standing, as well as the solid stone steps, the esplanade, the courtyard wall, with its ponderous gate-posts. Although the earthquake of 1842 ruined them to such an extent, they have never since been occupied ; yet, seen as they are to-day, with their historic associations, their magnificent natural site, the extent and majesty of their architecture, the traveller is well repaid in making a special visit to them. Besides this palace of Sans Souci, Cristophe had other magnificent places throughout his dominions, bearing the various names of the " Queen's Delight," " The King's Beautiful View," " The Conquest," " The Victory," " The Glory," &c. Most of these were sugar estates, others were cotton plantations, but all lying in this most fertile and beautiful plain of St Domingo and Hayti, known as the " Artibonite." But here at Sans Souci was the favourite place and residence of the tyrant King Cristophe ; and as long as a stone of these walls shall stand, so long will there be a monument to one of the greatest savages and murderers that has ever disgraced God's earth. The history of this man and his rule in Hayti seems like fabled romance, and is too long for me to give here, but a few facts may not be uninteresting. For fourteen years Cristophe, originally an African slave, ruled here at Sans Souci, where, seated on a throne placed under the before-mentioned caimito-tree that shaded the terrace, he held court. His officers and people dared not look upon his face, but knelt before him as slaves, and with a wave of his hand he consigned immediately to the dungeon or death any of his subjects who displeased him. Did he want a carriage built or an article made, he would have brought before him the artificer. SUICIDE OF CRISTOPHE. 417 " How long will it take you to make one like this ? " lie would ask of the now trembling mechanic. " Three mouths," perhaps would be the reply. " If in two weeks it is not here before me, finished, you will be thrown from the precipice," was all that Cristophe said, and the man was taken away. It was at this palace that Cristophe died by his own hand. To show the character of the man, a short time before the revolution broke out against him, he had had an attack of paralysis, from which recovering somewhat, he had him- self put in a rum-and-pepper bath and rubbed by his attendants. This made him feel so much better that he ordered his people to be assembled, and then appearing before them on the terrace, he was so stupefied that he fell upon his knees in the attitude of supplication, and had to be carried in. Then came the news of the revolution against him at the Cape. He saw his fields of cane burned before him under his very eye. Then came the revolt of his favourite troops ; and seating himself in the gallery of his palace in a dressing-gown and curious hat he wore, he made pass before him all the troops of his guard : to each one of them he gave a dollar to go and fight the rebels. Meanwhile he was seated on the esplanade with his two daughters near him, when word was brought him that his guard too had deserted him. Rising up, he bade good-bye to his wife and family, and withdrawing to his chamber, blew his brains out with a pistol. The officers and people of the palace immediately sacked it of all its precious valuables, while his wife and daughters, enveloping the body of their father in a hammock, fled to the " Citadel" above. This "Citadel," it is probable, has had more to do with making Cristophe infamous (as well as famous) than any- thing else. It was constructed originally by the French upon the chain of the mountain " Bishop's Hat," a height 2d 418 SANTO DOMINGO. of several hundred yards above the level of the sea. Begun in 1804, it was not finished until 1820, for there was alwa5's being executed upon it new labour. Such was its height that, standing upon its walls, one gets dizzy ; and from thence were thrown into the valley beneath thousands who had incurred the enmity of the King ; so that it came properly by its name Grand Boucan. Such was the cruel treatment of the labourers employed upon it, who worked without pay and very little food, that 30,000 persons are said to have perished in its construction. The walls of the fort are built upon the solid rock itself, and are from fifteen to twenty feet thick, and of great height, being built of masonry or solid stone. There were several batteries of the largest kind of ordnance placed one above the other. Here in this citadel were the arsenals and storehouses of the King ; and the accounts given of the quantities of provisions, of gold and silver, and precious things stored there, seem fabulous, were there not on record the names of those who became rich at its sacking. The commotions of nature have utterly ruined this once formidable place, and naught remains now but the ruins to show the immensity of the place and its con- ception, and even these are guarded with jealous care by the auth()rities from the eye of the stranger. Prince Saunders, the agent of Cristophe in England, gives the following information of these places in the time of his master : — " The Citadel Henry, that palladium of liberty, that majestic bulwark of independence, that monument of the greatness and of the vast combinations of a Henry, is built on the lofty summit of one of the highest mountains in the island, whence you may discover to the left the island of Tortuga and the reflection of its beautiful canal ; in front, the gentle risings, with the city of Cape Henry, its roadstead, and the vast expanse of ocean ; on the right, La Grange, Monte Cristo, the city of Fort Royal, Manzanillo Bay, and the surrounding hills. SANS SOUCI. 419 The eye is gratified with the prospect of the beautiful plain, and the magnificent carpet of verdure spread before it. " The position, fortified by nature, and to which art has added all its science, with casemates and bomb-proofs, has secured it from being successfully besieged, while the mouths of the cannon overtop the elevation of the high ground, and command the adjacent territory, affording pro- tection to the whole north." He describes Sans Soucias a town " likely to become the capital of Hayti." " Ravines have been filled up, moun- tains levelled, and public roads laid out. This superb royal palace, its sumptuous apartments, all with inlaid work, and lined with the most beautiful and rarest tapestry, ... all these combine to embellish the retreat of a hero. ... I know it to be the intention of our King to have the rotunda of his palace in the Citadel paved and lined with quadruples ; such a novel species of apartment will reflect a precious drapery, and be without a parallel in the world." My visit to this wonderful place I shall never forget, and returning to the village, I gave orders for our start. Availing myself of the time, I rambled through the village, entering into conversation with the people, and to my inquiry, " Why do you dislike the Americans so much? " I was invariably told that the Government had informed them the Americans wanted to come and take their lands and make them slaves and work. I am very certain that many of these people were much enlightened before I left them, but they were hardly able to realise my last words, that we had freed our slaves, and were now educating them. Having no idea of being detained on the road by the slow movements of William, I determined to start back alone, as I was now familiar with the road, and notwith- standing his warnings that a present shower would end in a violent storm, I left him to convey to several of the 420 SANTO BO MINGO. natives some of the home truths about their condition, and putting spurs to my horse, I reached the Cape safely, after an extremely hot ride, much to the surprise and gratification of my friends, who I really believe had felt seriously alarmed about me, as it was currently reported I never would reach the Citadel, and, in point of fact, owing to the trickery of the Grovern- ment, I did not. Before I left the Cape, I was known as the Ameri- can who had attempted to "take "the Citadel, one rascal having the impudence to make a sign of throat-cutting in pointing me out. As I had the intention of going overland to Gonaives, the Consul had asked for a letter for me from the autho- rities, one of which, similar to that given me for Milot, was furnished by Alexis Nord, the other, purporting to be a recommendation to the authorities at Gronaives, was given into my hands sealed, and, in all probability, had my plans been carried out, would have been duly delivered to its address. On my return, however, I found such difficulty in getting horses, that I decided to avail myself of the chance to visit the entire north coast of Hayti in the American steamer Port-au-Prince, which runs regularly from New York to this island every month. For this reason my letter to the DUPLICITY OF OFFICIALS. 421 authorities at Gonaives could be of no further use, and with so much talk and so much duplicity on the part of the officials, I confess my suspicions were aroused, and my curiosity excited as to the honesty of its contents. There- fore, after I left the island, it being still in my possession, I took the liberty of opening it ; and here is its literal translation, upon which, I think, no comment need be made, as it speaks for itself, simply stating, however, in justice to myself, that never, as far as I know, did I give hint or intimation to any Haytian that I had ever had anything to do with a United States Commission. It is more particularly valuable, however, as an exposition of the sentiments that seem to pervade the breast of every Haytian, no matter what his status socially, who has not been out of the island, that the acme of perfection has been reached by Hayti and its people, from which happy delusion it would seem almost a pity to undeceive them, were it not that the world generally, and they particularly, will be benefited by a critical examination. Liberty. Equality. Fraternity. Republic of Haiti, No. • Cape Haytian, April 2, 1871. 68tli year of Independence. Chatannes, General of Division of the armies of the Republic, Provisional Commandant of the Arrondissement. I'o the Commandant of the A rrondissmient of Gonaives. General — Monsieur Hazard, one of the members of the American Com- mission sent to the eastern part of the island, has been here some days, coming from Monte Cristo, in order to go to Port-au- Prince, for which he is furnished with a permit from the Commander of the Department North. As we ought to prove our independence, preferring rather to bury ourselves in our ruin than to annex our country that we have gained at the price of the blood of our forefathers, and as we are at the level for which God has created us, men equal to all men in any part of the world, I have not need, General, to recommend for this stranger all the regards you should have for him, in order that, on his return to his own country, he may be able to defend us from the "sauvagerie" of which very often we are accused. It is with these sentiments, General, I salute you in the country (en la patrie). Chatannes. 422 SANTO DOMINGO. Sorry am I to confess that I cannot conscientiously make this defence, and, in fact, I have been, like most persons who visit Hayti, utterly disappointed in its people and government ; and the candid and impartial traveller, friend of the black race though he be, must feel, in visiting this island, that its people have not yet solved the problem of self-government ; for though their constitution seems to be good enough, it is yet so unwisely administered by those in power, that the country has simply been, since Boyer's time, a country of revolutions, at the history of which it will be well for us to glance, in order to properly understand the condition of its affairs to-day. CHAPTER XXII. "This country, which for twenty-seven years has never ceased to he in a state of revolution, caused by the ambition of those without occupation, who have seen in this way a means of making money, or of repairing their banki-uptcies in the changing of Government officers, has need of a reform, moral and political." Le Conte. Hayti from the Departure of Boyer in 1843 to the Advent of Saget in 1870. TT would be neither interesting to the reader, nor possible -^ in a volume like this, to detail the acts or history of every individual who appears prominent in the annals of Hayti from 1843 to the present time. Eminently a country of factions and of revolutions, happily for the world at large, Hayti's political status has in no way affected the rest of mankind. Nevertheless the philanthropist cannot but regret that, while the history of the rest of the world shows a wonderful record of progress, civilisation, and enlightenment in the past thirty years, she alone stands a warning, in her present condition, of the evils resulting from a lack of all these. The excuses given by the party that overthrew Boyer, " that he had remained stationary for twenty-five years, that he had not given education to the people, and that he had maintained the military system, which retarded civilisation and aided to violate the law," are just as applicable to-day. The impartial writer hardly needs to rely upon his own judg- ment to form an opinion of Hayti and its people, for so 424 SANTO DOMINGO. numerous and so frank have been the confessions made by many of these literary patriots, that it is not a very diflScult matter to select what is really the truth, and that may be found embodied in the words at the head of this chapter. General Le Conte, who within a few months has himself become a martyr to this fever of revolution, and paid the penalty of failure, was the author of these words, and, perhaps, as a real Haytian, a descendant of the famous Dessalines, as good a judge of his people as can be found. Numerous causes of discontent, however, added to the action of Boyer in paying indemnity to a Spanish man-of- war, created the insurrection against him in 1843, at the head of which was General Herard Eiviere, a mulatto, an ignorant soldier, and a man, it is said, without the slightest political knowledge or experience ; but he was supported by a body of young men, who believed themselves justified by the excuses given above in overturning one Government without having prepared plans for another. Many of these young men were well instructed ; some had been educated in Europe; but the largest part of them, and they the most noisy and demonstrative, had been ruined by their debaucheries. They wished, therefore, to rebuild their fortunes, and, with the vanity peculiar to the Haytian, shine in the first rank. Hardly, however, had Herard been installed at the head of the Government, when he was compelled by the con- dition of affairs in the Dominican part to march to the frontier, and while absent, revolts broke out among the blacks, and several candidates were proposed as President ; but Herard, returning at the head of his army, with the assistance of some friends, effected a coup d'etat, by which he was made President, and subsequently, in January 1844, confirmed for life. The pen tires in transcribing the names of the Haytian Presidents, they were made so fast, after the spirit of revolution had once begun its career, and the eye finds no DEMORALISATION OF HAYTI. 425 period of peace or tranquillitj'- among this people on its page of history. The revolution of Herard, begun with great promises, soon weakened under the excess of zeal of its promoters, who it is said had deceived the country, and the people were again in revolt, wreaking their vengeance and hate on the innocent as well as guilty; and from that time to this, the spirit of revolution seems to have taken such hold, that the Haytian takes it in with each breath of air. For several years immorality and corruption joined with revolution in demoralising the country. Individual governments, or those of party, succeeded one another in shorter or longer intervals, according as the character of the chief was more or less strong and absolute; but the people have never had a voice in the election of their chief ruler, for some bold chief or some party, having the control of an armed force, imposed its candidate upon the people, who, too timid to act otherwise, accepted him, while hoping and waiting till some more fortunate one should have his turn. Thus (says Leconte) the laws have never been observed in Hayti, and their violation is the most natural thing iu the world. The leaders demand their execution, but in order to facilitate their personal interests, or those of their favourites, devotion to the country in Hayti goes for nothing; it is the devotion to a leader or individual that is the act of virtue. Thus Herard, becoming unpopular, was deposed by the people, and fled to Jamaica, and an old negro, named Guerrier, was appointed his successor ; but he did not live long enough to have any eifect, and dying in 1845, soon after his election, he was succeeded by Pierrot, a still older negro, some seventy years of age. Nothing of any im- portance seems to have occurred during his term, which was short, but a vast waste of money, induced by a system of rewards to military chiefs, and an army was, at great expense. 426 SANTO DOMINGO. kept up, and constant incursions made upon Dominican territory. In the spring, however, of 1846, another revolution was inaugurated by the nomination of General Riche, a man sixty years of age, to the Presidency, Pierrot retiring dis- gusted to private life. Riche made some efforts to improve the condition of affairs, his term being a great advance on that of his pre- decessors, and some attempts were made at general agri- culture ; but the revenues of the island were principally absorbed by the army, and it is said that out of five million dollars revenue, three millions were expended for that purpose. After the fall of Boyer, some of his ministers had as- sisted his successors with their counsels, and the Ardouins, Dupuy, and others were thus found aiding Riche ; Dupuy, a man skilled in affairs of state, it is said, being his chief councillor ; and although petty revolts were occurring all over the island, he was enabled to maintain his position for a short time. But the same causes which tended then to demoralise the country and unsettle its people are those that render it a botbed of revolution to-day. The bankruptcy of its treasury, the ambition of aspiring chiefs, the hatred of dis- appointed ones, and the want of any regular system of commerce and agriculture, with the incubus of an army living in idleness and eating up the substance of the land, must have their effect. Riche dying in 1847, the senate and the country were divided as to his successor — two competitors being in the field, Generals Souffran and Paul ; and in order to get out of this difficulty. Senators Ardouin and Dupuy named Faustin Soulouque, and, on his being proposed by the Presi- dent of the Senate, B. Ardouin, he was declared chief of the republic. Soulouque had been born a slave, and was at eighteen GENERAL SOULOUQUE. 427 years of age a slave of General Lamar, who took him for his " aide-de-camp," from which he was slowly promoted until he became a General. He was superstitious, illiterate, and a member of the secret order of Vaudoux. A fine-looking mulatto of about sixty-two years of age, though appearing much younger, he was excessively vain and fond of admiration. Without the slightest political experience or knowledge, Soulouque, believed to be a man without decision, will, or fixed views, was thus selected by a coterie which, having governed pretty much the country through his predecessors, expected to find in him the easy tool or lay figure with which to work. The majority of the people, astonished at first at this nomination, that took the country by surprise, remained indifferent, and some of the most prominent men, laying aside their prejudices, determined to yield the new official their support for the sake of the country. But it would appear that if Soulouque had nothing else to recommend him, he had at least a wUl of his own, with some administrative capacity, which quickly made him inde- pendent of his electors. On making this discovery, these men, it appears, were much chagrined, and endeavoured to unite all the coloured and mulatto infiuence by turning Soulouque into ridicule, and finally conspiring against him. Soulouque, however, threw himself into the arms of the blacks (always spoken of by the mulattoes as the ignorant blacks), and a terrible and bloody struggle of caste ensued, April 16, 1848, in which he was the victor ; but it was only through the interference of foreigners that more horrible deeds of murder and bloodshed were prevented. Soulouque now created an empire, as it was called, and in August 26, 1849, declared himself Emperor, under the title of Faustin the First, appointing a number of his followers to titles of nobility, to which has been, and 428 SANTO DOMINGO. always will be, attached a certain amount of ridicule, though the names bestowed on some were simply those of the districts to which the French themselves had given the name of Limonade, Marmalade, &c. For twelve years Soulouque reigned in the most absolute manner, like a tyrant it is said; but it is also related of him that, though without instruction, he was sincere and honest. At all events, adopting the motto, f I am the state; my will is the law," he made himself felt throughout the country as its ruler, and thus prevented any attempt at conspiracies against him. Ambitious to bring the whole island under his rule, he made several attempts against the Dominicans; and a favourite oath of his was, that he would exterminate the rebels of the east as so many hogs ; but, as we have already seen, these attempts were unsuccessful. '' Let us rejoice," he said ; " we await the future, when a time shall come when the people will say, ' What a beautiful epoch was that of Soulouque ! ' " But even this happy (?) reign was troubled by such a practical matter as payment of a debt; for the French forced the Emperor to hypothecate one half of the customs duty (treaty of May 15, 1847) towards paying the debt due them, and of which not one single payment had been made from 1843 to 1846. Notwithstanding all this regal splendour, it does not appear the masses of the peopl.e were either contented or happy, and the Haytian phrase " Yet another revolution," was to be illustrated by Fabre Nicholas Geffrard, one of Soulouque's generals, who, in 1859 at Gonaives, raised the banner of revolt. Loaded with debts occasioned by play and libertinage, it is said GefFrard personally carried very little weight, but announcing himself as the representative of a chief named Paul, who was much respected by the people, and who had already raised the banner of revolt in the west and south. PRESIDENT GEFFRARD. 429 he was soon supported by large numbers of the discontented population ; and Faustin the First was compelled to leave the glories of his new empire behind him, and take refuge in Jamaica, where he was soon to be followed by' Geffrard. The latter, however, soon came out under his own name, offering the people a democratic rule, with free and liberal institutions, of which he declared himself the champion ; and no sooner did he feel assured by the strength of his followers, than he declared himself President of the republic, and the empire fell. Some of the portraits made of Geffrard are not very flattering ; he is pronounced a hypocrite, a shallow man, .making great pretensions; as extreraely dishonest and devoted to libertinage, keeping a number of mistresses, and aiding by his own example to demoralise not only the young men, but in seducing the young women from virtue. From the first his rule gave no peace or satisfaction to the country. An attempt made to assassinate him resulted in the death of his daughter; while his entire rule was not free from executions and assassinations, many women even suffering death. Born of a mulatto mother by a black father, Geffrard, it is said, availed himself of this circumstance to ingratiate himself with both parties, now claiming with the blacks that he was of them through his father, and in the same manner he claimed a position with the mulattoes. It was during Geffrard's rule that the Spaniards, then in possession of the eastern part of the island, threatened to bombard the town of Port-au-Prince. The Haytians, it appears, had committed, as was their frequent custom, some raids on the frontiers, carrying off horses and cattle ; and the Spanish authorities immediately demanded reparation, which not being granted, a fleet was sent to Port-au-Prince, and a demand made on Geffrard for some 40,000 doUars, 430 SANTO DOMINGO. as also that the Spanish flag should be saluted. Forty- eight hours were only allowed for a final decision. GefFrard protesting he would not comply with the terms, and the Spanish commander being equally obdurate, it was only through the influence of the diplomatic corps that the latter consented to leave the sum to be settled by arbitra- tion, Geffrard, under protest of force alone, consenting to salute the Spanish flag. Nothing, however, it appears, could make Geffrard popu- lar, and being well aware that there must be a change, he wisely decided to take French leave of the country, and with a large amount of public funds he made his escape to Jamaica. Succeeding Gefirard came Sylvain Salnave, a plain honest soldier, who, supported by the army, was sustained by the great mass of the people, especially the blacks, who made him President of the republic ; but, with the best intentions, he appears not to have conciliated all parties — the aristocracy, as the mulattoes are called, being opposed to him. Duly elected by the Constituent Assembly on the 14th June 1867, he entered at once into the discharge of his functions, which by the same Assembly were prescribed to terminate in May 1871 ; and the constitution at present in force was then promulgated, the customs laws passed by Soulouque, and slightly revised by Gefirard, being enforced then as they also are at present. This constitution, which " the Haytian people proclaim in presence of the Supreme Being, in order to consecrate for ever its rights, its civil and political guarantees, its sovereignty, and its national independence," is iindoubtedly a good one, and, if fully carried out in all details, quite sufficient to make happy and prosperous any people living in a land so highly favoured by nature as Hayti. This constitution, amongst other articles, provides that " the Republic of Hayti is one and indivisible, essentially CONSTITUTION OF HAYTI. 431 free, sovereign, and independent." The territory and the islands that belong to it are inviolable, and cannot be alienated by a single treaty or convention. The territory is divided into departments ; each department is sub- divided into " arrondissements," and each one of these into " communes," all of which are determined in their number by law. All Haytians are equal before the law. They are all equally entitled to civil and military offices, dependent on merit alone. There is no distinction of birth, order, class, or colour. The liberty is guaranteed to every citizen to go and come, remain, &c., without being arrested. Yet to-day it is a common occurrence for the military to take young boys and men from off their mules in the public streets, even though they may be household servants with their employers present, and pack them off to the army, without asking permission, or the recruits having any redress. " No law shall be ex post facto in its effects." Yet no change in government has ever taken place that the upholders of the previous recognised stable authority have not been murdered, imprisoned, or exiled — Salnave as we shall presently show, being the first victim. Three powers form the government — the legislative, the executive, and the judicial ; and each power is independent of the two others. The legislative power is exercised by the Senate and the Chamber of Communes, forming together the National Assembly. The President of the republic is the executive. The Chamber of the Communes is composed of the direct representatives of the people, elected by the primary assemblies of each commune ; this chamber elects the senators. The President of the republic is elected by the National Assembly for four years, and no one can be re-elected but after an interval of four years. Notwithstanding this constitution and its rules, and a President who seemed desirous of conforming himself to it, a war-cry was soon raised, and again this island was given 432 SANTO DOMINGO. up to revolution, murder, pillage, conflagration, and blood- shed, when " blood flowed in waves, and fortunes were utterly swept away, whole families being compelled to flee to Jamaica and St Thomas, with only their jewellery to furnish means of subsistence." Salnave sustained himself with varying success against the revolters, who committed every crime, maiming and torturing their prisoners, young girls being violated, while women and children were ruthlessly murdered. In Port-au-Prince, where Salnave was finally held be- sieged by the " Cacos," as the new party was called, crowds of distressed people sought the various Consulates for safety ; and though Salnave proclaimed they would be attacked if affording this shelter, many persons were pro- tected, though even foreigners were not safe from the wrath of parties until English and American men-of-war sailed into the harbour and covered the town with their guns. In November 1867, Chevalier, one of Salnave's generals, deserted him with a large body of troops, and joined the rebels ; and the Cape falling into their hands, two of Salnave's war-steamers were captured, leaving him only one, the Terror, at Port-au-Prince. On the 18th December, three rebel vessels entered this harbour at night, and, through treachery, captured her without a shot being fired. The news of this capture aroused the city, when it was found that General Brice had landed 1500 men, and the town was to be attacked. Salnave, finding the town had been partially set on fire, retired with his friends to the grand palace, a handsome stone edifice, where it is said he was making his preparations to leave, as also to resign his position, when the town was bombarded by the vessels in the harbour. One of these, the Terror, had its guns under charge of the only practical artillerist on board, a young American PRESIDENT SALNAVE. 433 named Hall, and he, under threats of taking his life, was forced to point a gun upon the palace, which he did with such precision, that a shell burst in the throne-room, the most magnificent in the palace, but then filled with a large quantity of powder, which exploding, immediately blew up the entire building. Salnave, who was just mounting his horse to seek pro- tection at the American minister's, escaped, and took the road to La Coupe (Petionville), on the heights above the town, which latter was only saved from total destruction by the crews of the English men-of-war. In the ruins of the palace five hundred men perished. Brice being now in command of the town, despatched the Terror to bring Nissage Saget, then at Arcahaye, to the capital, and on his arrival ensued still further scenes of horror, many prominent men and officers being proscribed and murdered. The English Consul had persuaded Salnave to retire, and he sought shelter on the frontier, endeavouring to make his escape to Dominica ; but he was captured by that high-toned patriot Cabral, January 11, 1870, who, surren- dering him to Saget, received, it is said, $5000 in gold. Meanwhile hundreds of people had sought the protection of Mr Bassett, the American minister, who occupied a country-house some two miles out of the city ; and at one time there were over a thousand persons, men, women, and children, on his ground, being fed at his own expense, and though demands were made by the new authorities for the lives of these poor people, Mr Bassett declared, at immense risk to himself, that on the score of humanity his flag covered them all, and not a hair of their heads should be touched. All honour to him! for his efforts were successful in saving thousands of lives, though he himself was shot at on the public streets. When Salnave was brought into town, a prisoner, and wounded in the left hand, he was escorted by some two 2 E 434 SANTO DOMINGO. thousand soldiers to the court-house, and there tried by a military court, of which General Lorquet was president, on the charges of cruelty and bloodshed since the time of Geffrard, firing the town, and treason. His trial lasted three hours, and he was pronounced guilty, sentenced to death, and twenty minutes after taken to the steps of his own ruined palace, and there shot to death. On the 29th May 1870, the present incumbent, Nissage Saget, was named (it cannot be said elected) President for four years, and still remains at the head of this free and orderly republic of Hayti, whose citizens have reached, " at the price of the blood of their forefathers, that level for which God has created them, men equal to all men in any part of the world." God help the world if this were so ! The reader looking over this chapter will perhaps think I have exaggerated these events of Haytian history. I wish I could say I had ; but, on the contrary, I have been so astounded at the records written by Haytians themselves, that I have endeavoured to soften the details I found there, lest I should be accused of this. But is Hayti to-day any different, and does it promise any better future ? Alas ! no ; that is indeed a blank. What is this experiment of " self-government," so de- scribed by some over-zealous or badly-informed people ? Do they not know that at present there exists in Hayti an- other of those military despotisms for which the island is famous ; that passes are required by the country people to come to town ; that the only police are soldiers ; and that not a year goes by unaccompanied by revolution and blood- shed? Do they not know that there are no general means of education, or of communication, except byroads ordinarily fit only for animals, most of which even were originally made in the time of the French; that bridges going to decay are not repaired ; that there is no general system INDOLENCE OF THE HATTIANS. 435 of agriculture, and absolutely no manufacturing of any- kind ; that positively there is no freedom of opinion of any kind, and that neither foreigner nor native dare express their honest views, if they are not in accord with the Government ? Do they know that this Government is bankrupt, its coin depreciated to four hundred dollars of paper to one in silver ; while France threatens it for a settlement of its claims, and Prussia has been forced within three months past to forcibly seize Haytian war-vessels in settlement of her claims, only too glad, doubtless, to strengthen her bold upon an island whose principal trade she monopolises, whose merchants are principally composed of her citizens? Do they not know that the men of the island exist upon the industry of the women, who are really the only labourers ; and that, furthermore, at least two-thirds of the population do not speak any language recognised by the civilised world ; that there is not a town on the island not remaining in ruins more or less caused by their revolutions? Again, do they not know that, with acres and acres of splendid sugar-cane, there is hardly a steam-mill; that, with a soil especially adapted by nature for coffee-raising, there cannot be said to be a dozen coffee estates in the island, and that even the coffee, which, left thus in its ■wild state, grows in such abundance that it cannot all be harvested, is in the marts of commerce valued as an inferior article, not from any demerit of its own, but from the fact that the people are too lazy to clean and prepare it properly for market ? I could here quote many paragraphs from Haytian writers themselves showing how conscious they are of their own shortcomings, but space does not permit me ; yet I cannot refrain from quoting a few passages from the works of their most celebrated historian (Ardouin), who says : " In general the people of Hayti are capable of industry ; a thousand means besides those of agriculture are offered 436 SANTO DOMINGO. to them to arrive at a state of great prosperity, but they do not avail themselves of them. In the towns, where there is a surplus of inhabitants, there is no lack of labour, but few of the workmen acquit themselves well in their tasks. A great part remain idle, and indifferent to the happiness that depends upon them ; they like better to vegetate than live honestly by labour. The youth of the country give themselves up to foolishness and frivolity, and to that idleness which is the mother of all vice. The crime most frequently committed is theft, and the greatest number of the criminals are the young." " Another consideration comes from the natural union of the men with the women without any tie of marriage, and the number of children \>j one father having different mothers, creating irregular and irresponsible families and ties." Quoting from a late article in one of their papers {La Gazette du Peuple, April 6, 1871), the editor says : " For sixty-eight years, from which dates our existence, what have we done ? Nothing, or almost nothing. All our constitu- tions are defective, all our laws are incomplete ; our cus- tom-houses are badly administered, our navy is detestable, our finances are rotten to the base; our police is badly organised, our army is in a pitiable state ; the legislative power is not understood, and never will be ; the primary elections are neglected, and our people feel not their im- portance ; almost all our public edifices are in ruins ; the public instruction is almost entirely abandoned." Yet, not satisfied with her own position and the regula- tion and improvement of her own people and affairs, Hayti presumes to interfere with her neighbour, Dominica, furnishing the disturbers of its peace with assistance, in order to create an impression that the people of that part do not want to join the American Union. God forbid, that the annexation of this part of the island should be thought of by us for one moment, even GOVERNMENT OF HAYTI. 437 though Dominica becomes one of our States ; for the people of that part, humble as they are, are years ahead of the mass of the Haytians, and it will take years of missionary enterprise and instruction to prepare them for the blessings of civil liberty as enjoyed by us. Perhaps to-day no nobler enterprise could be under- taken by the United States than the annexing, settling, and improving St Domingo, in order that, in time, the in- fluence of its new civilisation might, by example and its spreading influence, develop among its dusky neighbours a desire to share in the blessings and advantages which it is the boast of Americans that American institutions bring. It is this fear, I truly believe, with which the authori- ties of Hayti regard Dominican annexation to the United States, for they, know well enough that their safety and control exist only so long as the masses of the people remain sunk in ignorance and sloth. It was during these negotiations Hayti became alarmed, as she always has done at any effort made by a foreign power to get control in the island ; and she assists with arms, men, and munitions the rebel Cabral, who is so conscious himself of his position that he even entitles a newspaper (purporting to be his official organ, but which is printed by Haytians at Port-au-Prince) Revolutionary Bulletin; and Luperon, who is simply a robber chief, was maintained likewise ; and so patent to the whole world was this aid rendered by the Haytian authorities, that the records of the United States Consulate at Cape Haytien bear the copies of the protest of the energetic Consul at that place (a col- oured man) against this improper and illegal action towards the United States. But perhaps the best illustration of the absence of true wisdom and statesmanship in the government of Hayti is its treatment of the outside world, an example of which is the following, from the report of the United States Com- 438 SANTO DOMINGO. missioners, three gentlemen eminent for their learning, statesmanship, and philanthropy. HATTI. The Commissioners, of course, felt a deep interest in the experiment of self- government which the blacks are trying in Hayti. They certainly wished it all success. They could not understand how any new and close relations between St Domingo and the United States could affect that experiment otherwise than favourably. They felt that it would be unjust to our Government to suppose that it contemplated any action injurious to it. They had too much faith in the virtue of our institutions to doubt that the form established of similar institutions in a neighbouring land must act favourably upon republicanism and progress in Hayti. The only force to be exerted would be a moral one, the force of example. They knew of no valid claim which Hayti had against St Domingo, nor of any rights or interests which could be endangered by the extension of our institutions over the western end of the island. Neverthe- less, they desired to give to the Government, and to intelligent citizens, an opportunity of stating their views. Moreover, they desired, iu the most friendly spirit, to make the same obser- vations and study of Hayti and its inhabitants as they had made of the Dominican Republic. They intimated to the President and his Council their dispositions and desires. They stated even that they should be glad to be put in the way of ascertaining what were the claims of Hayti upon St Do- mingo, and what were the views and wishes of the Haytian people with respect to any changes that might be brought about in the neighbouring republic. But they received no encouragement to pursue their inquiries. They asked verbally, and through our minister in writing, for permission to explore the interior of the island, but this was met iu a spirit equivalent to a refusal. They contented themselves, therefore, with taking such testimony, and gathering such information upon matters bearing upon the question of an- nexation, as they could without giving offence. In reviewing the whole field of their investigations, looking to the interests of both divisions of the island, they are firmly persuaded that the annexation of St Domingo to the United States would be hardly less beneficial to the Haytian than to the Dominican people. This benefit would arise first from the example which would doubt- less be afforded of a well-regulated, orderly, and prosperous State, the great need of that part of the world, and which it has as yet never seen ; a second and more direct benefit would arise from the equitable establishment of a boundary line between the French-speaking and the Spanish-speaking nations upon that island, and its guarantee by a strong power. This would end the exhausting border warfare which has been one of the greatest curses of Hayti as well as St Domingo, and would enable both to MILITARY AMBITION. 439 devote their energies thenceforward to the education of their people and the development of their resources. Respectfully submitted, B. F. Wade, Andrew D. White, S. G. Howe. To the President of the United States. Naturally such a state of affairs as herein described must have its effect upon the character of its people, and thus the lower order of Haytians are utterly ignorant and illi- terate. " They are improvident and thoughtless of the future, from a consciousness that their lands are held by a tenure often depending on the whim of an officer, and are, moreover, liable to the devastations of contending armies. They attend not to the increase of planting. The pruning-knife seldom checks th-e rank luxuriance of the coffee-tree, or the hoe extirpate the choking weeds. The first years of Haytian independence gave a gleam of pros- perity, for the country was in that secondary stage of for- wardness in which the French left it, and from which it has since gradually declined." Of the better class and the leaders, the following from a prominent Haytian, who was very frank with me, gives this expression of his views and experience : " The greatest ambition of a Haytian is military glory ; to become a general is the very pinnacle of his hopes, and to attain this, anything will be sacrificed. If the country be at peace, and he see no chance in this way to get in, he sets about getting up a revolution ; this once attained, and successful, the victors take the spoils, until they, in their turn, have to give place to other successful ones. Mean- while the country goes to ruin ; the blacks do not work, because lazy and indifferent ; the peaceable better classes remain as quiet as they are allowed to be, while a small party in power holds despotic control over the lives, hopes, and fortunes of the others, without doing anything to better either the country or its people. Consequently most of the 440 SANTO DOMINGO. business of the country is done by foreign traders, -wbo, under the protection afforded by their flags, transact busi- ness, taking care, in return for the risks they run, to exact exorbitant profits wherever they can ; even with this they have their privileges restricted, and, as a general thing, the Government is largely in their debt." No wonder that Candler, the champion of the black race, who visited the island in 1840, and distributed books and tracts, was compelled, even in the then more favourable condition of the island, to say, " What a mournful exhibi- tion is thus presented to us of the morals of Hayti ! How earnestly must the friends of freedom and of good order in civil society desire amelioration in the institutions of the country ! " What would he now say ? CHAPTER XXIII. ' Oh ! whence, as wafted from Elysium— whence These perfumes, strangers to the raptured sense ; These boughs of gold, and fruits of heavenly hue, Tinging with vermeil light the billows blue ? " Coasting the Island — Passengers and Trofical Mode of Travel — Coast Scenery — Port de Paix—Tortuga Island — St Nicholas Mole — Bay of Port-au-Prince— The Town — Odd Appearance — Lack of Hotels — Suburbs of Port-au-Prince — Pretty Country- houses — Old French Places — La Coupe — Road-making — Hay- iian Soldiers — Peeling about Annexation — Noble Conduct of the United States Minister — Aiding the Uotninican Revolu- tionists — Visit to the Interior — Sugar Plantations — Lake Azuey — A Swim in lieu of a Dinner — A Long Ride in Bad Weather — Departure — Gonaives. AN the morning of April 3, we went on board of the ^ steamer, having bid good-bye to our good friends of the Cape, and found a large number of passengers already congregated on the deck, the majority of them being Hay- tians of various shades of colour. These people were mostly members of the Senate and House on their way to Port-au- Prince, where these bodies were just going into session. They seemed to be a well-behaved, polite set of people, several of the legislators being quite young men, while one of the senators was a venerable, corpulent negro. The Port-au-Prince was a moderate-sized steamer, with accommodations for a sea-voyage of only about twenty passengers, but she had probably twice that number now. 442 SANTO DOMINGO. But as the voyage around the island is a very smooth and pleasant one, the Haytians lived and slept on deck under the awning ; in fact, I found it more agreeable myself to swing my hammock aft, and rest in that, than go below in the warm cabin. Rather an odd sight, though, to see passengers on a steamer content themselves with spreading their mattresses and blankets upon the deck, and thus get their night's rest — men, women, and children being huddled together promiscuously. The steamer is owned by a New York firm, and came out direct from that place to Cape Haytian, consigned to the American house of Murray, Price, & Co. The company has a subsidy.of $40,000 per year from the Haytian Govern- ment, which I believe remains unpaid for two years past, for which subsidy the steamer carries a mail once a month, and also, free, the members of the Government and their families between the capital and the Cape. The anchor is up, and off we go from this beautiful bay ; but keeping close in shore we have the opportunity of seeing the lovely scenery of the Haytian coast ; and nothing can be more charming than thus voyaging in these tropic seas amid such beautiful scenes, where, as in the present case, our company was pleasant, the ship agreeable, and its officers attentive. I was much interested with the talk I had with the Haytians about themselves and their Government, and they all expressed much sympathy in the rude treatment I had received at the hands of the authorities, the Citadel story seeming to be familiar to them, and of which they professed to speak as a great outrage. They may, or may not, have been sincere, but at all events they heard some candid opinions from me. These members expected a warm time in the Assembly with Saget, the President of the republic, as there was a dead lock between them on various questions, and one or COAST SCENE BY. 443 the other would have to yield, else there would ensue still another of the many revolutions which are periodical on this island. The greatest trouble affecting the present Government is to know how to run its finances, as the paper money now out has little or no value, and in fact there is nothing of value in the republic upon which to base credit, unless the customs are hypothecated. The greatest revenue is obtained from the export duty on coffee, which amounts to an enormous sum, but which kills the industry of the country, making the coffee so high to export to foreign markets that millions of pounds are left unpicked on the trees each year. This I can readily believe, for as we sailed along the coast we did not see any signs of a thickly-settled country or of a general agriculture. Only occasionally we saw clearings on the hill-side that marked the residence of some settler; yet the country is beautiful in the extreme, and, as the Haytians on board told me, splendid coffee land. Now we are entering a noble canal or passage formed by the island of Tortuga and the mainland, and upon the shore of the latter is spread out before us the little town of Port de Paix, presenting a pleasing aspect from the sea. It is a small place, with tolerably well-built houses of stone, a large church, and a public fountain ; but the site of the town is unhealthy from the low, marshy nature of the land in the vicinity ; but the country about it is said to be fertile in coffee, with forests of many valuable woods. Its historic interest is centred in the fact that Columbus landed here on his first voyage, naming the place Valparayso, or Valley of Delight ; it was also the dwelling-place of one of the ancient caciques ; and the French, being driven from the island of Tortuga opposite, settled here, and gave it the present name of Peaceful Port. Tortuga (or Turtle) Island, which forms the other shore 444 SANTO DOMINGO. of this channel, is about nine leagues long and some two miles in its greatest width, and is apparently uninhabited and uncultivated, but the woods upon it are said to be very valuable. This island is note- worthy as being the ori- ginal home of the famous "buccaneers," freeboot- ers, or filibusters of the New World. Leaving Port de Paix, the character of the shore seems to change very much, and becomes more wild and barren, with occasional hills of the coffee, and late in the afternoon we came to the superb harbour and bay of Mole St Nico- las. This is the first place in the whole island whereEuropeans landed, Columbus entering the baj' on the 6th of De- cember 1492, and nam- ing it St Nicolas in honour of the patron saint of that day. He gave it the name after- wards of Mole from its shape. This place, called the Gibraltar of the New World, remained almost unsettled until 1764, but it was ST NICOLAS' MOLE. 445 successively settled by French, Germans, and English, and at different times immense sums of money have been spent on its forts and walls, which, in the numerous attacks and revolutions from which it has suffered, have be- come in a great degree ruined and dismantled — Cristophe having or- dered all the principal forts to be destroyed. The bay itself makes a fine picture from the sea, and ships of the largest size can ride out gales with perfect safety. The soil here is arid and poor, and produces in perfectiononly the grape and the fig. But the climate is said to be ex- tremely healthy. This port or bay is esteemed to be as valu- able and commanding a place in the west of the island as Samana Bay is on the east, com- manding as it does the channel between Hayti and Cuba, and probably, under any strong and stable Government, would become an im- portant and strong naval rendezvous in these waters. From this point the shores become very barren and 446 SANTO DOMINGO. unattractive, were it not that nature assumes sucli strange shapes in the volcanic-looking rocks of the shore, or the terrace tablelands that look like artificial glacis. Then follows a forbidding-looking coast, hardly shrub or sign of vegetation to be seen ; but the rocks rise up in level plains or ledges, that assume the form which entitles them to the name aptly bestowed upon them, " The Platforms." Night closes on us as we enter the bay in which is situated Port-au-Prince, and which at daybreak all hands are called to see. A magnificent harbour and a queer old town indeed, are our first . impressions, not much changed by further investigations ; there also we find at anchor a little fleet of Haytian men-of-war. A lively time we had of it, as we got into the dock, with the chattering of these coloured people, both on board and ashore ; but the sight of the only wharf in the port nearly finished me; for, utterly broken and decayed, it was the only one allowed by the Government, and upon it were nearly naked negroes with sacks of coifee on their heads, balancing themselves on the loose planks, an exploit which we ourselves became quite familiar with. To show how this Grovernment is conducted, this wharf has been supposed to be under repair by a friend for some time, who took the contract from the Governinent with the understanding that he might import the lumber for it duty free ; at the same time the authorities also passed an ordinance that no other lumber should be landed within the city limits. It need only be said that, since that time, if all the lumber had been put upon the wharf that was imported for it, it would be as big as a mountain. It had been my intention, on reaching Port-au-Prince, and seeing that part of the island, to have gone overland to Jacmel ; but the experience of what I had seen of this part of Hayti satisfied me that I should not be repaid for my trouble. As the steamer, owing to the intervention of the Holy UNITED STATES MINISTER'S HOUSE. 447 Week, would be detained in port some ten days or two weeks, I was only too glad to make my arrangements to proceed to the United States in her. There being no hotel of any respectable kind in the town, I was glad to accept the kind offers of hospitality made to me by our minister and others. Mr Bassett, the United States minister, lives most delightfully, about a mile out of town, on a hill overlooking the town and bay, affording a superb view in every direc- United states Minister's House. tion, while the place is charming in its luxuriant vegeta- tion, having also a marble bath large enough for swimming, with water fresh and cold from the mountain stream. This dwelling was originally built in 1849 for one of the many rulers of Hayti, the Emperor Soulouque ; and though making no pretension to elegance, is a house per- fectly adapted to a climate where one passes most of the time out of doors or on piazzas, of which this has an 448 SANTO DOMINGO. ample supply ; and here, amid flowers, or shaded from the sun by awnings conveniently lowered on the porticoes, one escapes entirely the heats and odours of the town below, while favoured by ever pure and fresh breezes from the neighbouring mountains. Near to JVIr Bassett's are several other beautiful places, with terraced gardens, roomy and stone-built dwellings, and superb stone swimming-baths, in which the ladies of the families swim as well as the men. Most of these places were originally owned by the old French planters, and from them can be obtained an idea of the luxurious manner in which, during the palmy days of Hayti, the French planters lived. I was particularly glad to meet these places, as showing me what a refined, energetic, and intelligent people could make for themselves in the way of beautiful homes and plantations in the St Domingo portion of the island, under a strong and stable government. Some of my most delightful hours were spent enjoying the kind hospitality of Mr Bassett and his lady, sharing with them some delightful rides on horseback, both to the town as well as the neighbouring country. One ride of an evening I remember with particular pleasure, up the fine mountain road to La Coupe, a beautiful village at the top of the hill. The road all the way up was apparently dug out of the mountain side, solidly constructed like a turnpike, and afforded us most superb views of a lovely valley between the mountain ranges, and also of the town and bay of Port-au-Prince. This was the only real attempt at a road in the whole of St Domingo or Hayti that I saw; but it was enough to show that no great difficulty is to be encountered in open- ing the whole island to good means of communication and travel. Having arrived during Holy Week, we found business pretty much at a stand still, Holy Thursday being kept as VISIT TO HAYTIAN MAN-OF-WAR. 449 a close holiday by the people and authorities. I was much amused, while in the cabin of our steamer, by a visit paid by a coloured gentleman, who said he was the officer of the guard at the wharf, to the captain of the ship. This official stated he waited on him, the captain, to tell him that he must not permit any one to work on that day, as it was a holy day, and the authorities did not allow it. The captain told me to say that he had permission from the authorities, and that, in fact, work never ceased on board ship. My acting as interpreter engaged me in quite a long and amusing theological discussion with this august official, the disputed points of which were finally settled by our " taking a drink " together, which he seemed nothing loth to do. Mx Hall, an American, who has served in our navy, being chief of artillery on board the Haytian man-of-war Terror, I gladly accepted his invitation to go on board of her, and a highly interesting visit I had. She is commanded by a Frenchman formerly in the French merchant service, and has several white officers, while her engineer and crew are all black. I was pleased most with the beautiful order in which Mr Hall had his batteries, the pieces of which were principally 10-inch Parrott guns, with one or twp 11-inch Dahlgrens. The vessel was quite a large one, and seemed in excellent order, barring the crew, who, I thought, were rather ragged and dirty, which can be accounted for from the fact that only one suit of clothes is issued to them at a time by the Government. Port-au-Prince, the capital of the republic of Hayti, is certainly an interesting town for a few days to the stranger, not alone from its being the principal town in the Island of Hayti, and curious in its architecture and appear- ance, but also from its historical associations. The town was permanently established as far back as 1749, the convenience of its location to all the other points in the island, as well as its proximity to the most fertile plain 2 F 450 SANTO DOMINGO. of the island, the Cul-de-sac, being the principal reason of its present location. Different portions of it were originally built at different times, but, like all the other towns of importance in Haj'ti, its original character has been very much changed by the succession of revolutionary fires and earthquakes to which, since the period of its settlement, it has been subjected. The ground upon which it is situated has a rather abrupt descent from the hills around down to the edge of the sea. The streets, which are wide and of good width, run at right angles to this bay front, being crossed at regular intervals by others, which thus gives the town the appearance of being laid out with great regularity, for while on board ship in the harbour one can see these principal streets extending back up the hill some distance, except to the south, where the plain terminates at the foot of the range of mountains. A Street in Port-au-Prince. Directly in front of the town are several small islands, which tradition says gave their name to the town, from the fact that they were known as the Prince Islands, while far PORT-AU-PRING\E. 451 out in tlie bay are seen the hazy hills of the Isle of Gronave, which, with the point of land, Cape St Nicolas, really forms the harbour of Port-au-Prince. This Isle of Gonave is said to be about forty miles long by nine wide, with valuable woods growing upon it, and a climate remarkably healthy, but it is to-day unsettled ; its ancient name, familiar to Irving's readers, was Gruanabo or Guanabano. Bay of Port-au-Prince from the House of the United States Minister- Port-au-Prince is reputed to be a very unhealthy place at times, much fever, both yellow and native, prevailing there; and if the theory of the prevalence of the mangrove-trees be true, it is easily accounted for, the shores and islands being covered with these breeders of pestilence. Historians tell us that at one time the town possessed handsome, solid structures, including public buildings, fountains, churches, &c.; but if so, they have almost entirely disappeared, or left ruined walls to mark where they might have been, for to-day even the houses of the Assembly are of wood of most ordinary construction, while the 452 SANTO DOMINGO. President's palace itself is only mediocre as an ordinary building. The ruins of the palace of Salnave are still extant, and show that they may have been a very majestic series of buildings, quite imposing in their architecture, while occasional fountains, the worse for age and neglect, show, in different parts of the city, attempts in ancient days to beautify the place. There is yet, however, in existence an immense stone basin in the upper part of the city, originally built and still used for the purpose of bathing the horses of the town's-people, a degree of luxury of which no other city I know can boast. To-day the lower part of the city has a good many fine warehouses, principally those of foreign merchants, who live on the second floors; but the great majority of the bouses are built of wood, in the most nondescript, irregular styles of architecture. The market-places are mere open squares, and the church, though large, has nothing remark- able about it ; but the streets, lined with their odd stores and contents, void of sidewalks, and filled constantly with people, present an odd and novel appearance. There seem to be no sanitary rules whatever, and the only cleansing of which I heard was that of the city streets by the heavy rains and showers. In fact, quite in the city, and upon the open square, dead animals are taken and left to die and rot without hindrance from any one. It being the Holy Week, with a great deal of show and ceremony going on, I had an opportunity of seeing a good many interesting sights, the military displays and Govern- ment shows being the principal ones. The President and his staff made a great display in their brilliant uniforms, the former particularly, who, though a man over fifty years of age, was gorgeous in diamonds, feathers, and gold lace. My admiration (?) for the soldiers was mingled with pity on account of the nature of their clothing, which, however brilliant in high-coloured braids and flannel ornament, NATIVE POPULATION. 453 must be awfal hot for them in this climate, consisting as it does of our old army clothing. The people are, I under- stand, a little " down " on the Americans on this subject, it appearing that their uniforms were a lot sold at auction at Baton Rouge, at one of our Government army sales, purchased by a government officer in New York for about $6, and sold at $26 to the Haytian Government. This uniform is sarcastically called the Van Bockkelen uniform in Port-au-Prince. Of course, the population are principally blacks, while the mulatto class constitute the principal aristocracy, to which are added the white French Creoles, as also many of the foreign merchants, and at a social gathering all these will be seen in various proportions according to circum- stances. As many of the native coloured population have been educated in France, there are found a good many highly- cultured men, extremely courteous and gentle in their manners ; and of some of the younger men, only a few removes from white, many may be said to be quite elegant in their dress and manners. Among the Creole population one meets with extremely lively and agreeable women, many of whom are married to foreigners. The old distinction of colour, however, exists even here, I am told ; for the mulattoes pride themselves on being a different people from the blacks, while the latter sneer at the former as being neither white nor black. I found a good many English-speaking people, and amongst them some coloured people who settled here years ago, established themselves in business, and are now doing well. I had many conversations with them, among whom there seems to exist a great difference of opinion about some things. For instance, some say annexation is the only salvation for the island ; others say it would not do at all ; and one individual, speaking of the annexation of St Domingo, said, " The time has not come yet for it." 454 SANTO DOMINGO. ''Why not?" I asked. " Because the day that that takes place there won't be a white man left alive in the island." (?!!!) Mr Bassett, our minister, I find, has made a great many friends for himself by the straightforward, manly course he pursues, and though naturally he does not please every one, yet he is extremely popular with the majority. Certainly, if Mr Washburne received so much praise for his course at Paris, what ought to be said of Mr Bassett's course here during the Salnave troubles, when nearly 3000 people sought the protection of our flag at his office and house, and where he, on the score of humanity, refused to allow a single person to be harmed by the excited revolu- tionists thirsting for their blood ? Standing alone at that time in his position, shot at in the public streets, and without the presence of a single American man-of-war to sustain him, he fed and cared for those people at his own expense, and though his course was sustained by the authorities at home, I am sorry to say the money he then spent has never yet been refunded — a nice encouragement for an official to assume such noble responsibility ! I picked up a great deal of curious information about the St Domingo business while I was in Port-au-Prince. I found the locality from which emanate all the proclamations of Cabral, and was permitted to take from the press itself, where it was being printed, copies of the paper. The Dominican Flag, or Revolutionary Bulletin, which purports to be printed in San Juan in Dominican territory, but which is made up here, as well in its accounts of imaginary battles and victories, as its truthful (?) sentiments 'of the " Dominicans." The printer of this sheet laughingly told me he always took care to get his money for the printing and work ; and that was the end of his business. I also had the pleasure of meeting the distinguished author of " Cabral's VISIT TO THE INTERIOR. 455 Protest " to the Commissioners, who, on my quizzing him about it, laughingly replied, " Well, Cabral signed it, even if I did write it." This same party confessed to me that though it was his business to write against annexation, he was perfectly aware the people of St Domingo were unanimous in favour of it. I was a little puzzled for a day or two to know how to get back into the country, as I was quietly informed no permission would be granted me, if asked for, by the autho- rities. As I had, however, a passport regularly vised by government authority, I determined to take my chances and " go it alone." This was more easy for me to do from the fact that I had a letter to an American merchant here who owns a large sugar estate some distance back in the interior, and, as he was at his place, made my arrange- ments to pay him a visit. Having found a horse to carry me and my traps, and having very luckily found a guide in the person of an engineer, who was going to the very place of my destina- tion to repair some of the sugar-mill machinery, I started out of the northern gate of Port-au-Prince for the sugar place of La Selle, in the grand plain, of the Cul-de-sac, famous in all time for its splendid agricultural quE|,lities. Our road was a broad, level one, leading through an immense plain, the sides of which were bounded by moun- tains clad in verdure, and about which were heavy clouds rolling before us that promised rain. This road, like all I have thus far seen in Hayti, was a perfectly good one, capable of being travelled in good weather by vehicles of every kind, though, with the excep- tion of an ox-cart we occasionally met, all the travelling was on mule or horse back. The sides of the road were almost universally lined by the hedges of logwood, that had grown to such an extent as to be now a valuable article of export, while the coffee-tree was, as usual, seen here and there growing almost wild. The houses were of the most ordinary 456 SANTO DOMINGO. kind, constructed of the small withes or planks of the narrow woods of the countrj'', and princi- pally thatched roofs. It being market- day, we found the road filled with the country people on the way to town, some on mule- back, some on foot, but not a cart of any kind did we meet. Most of those we met were women, some with immense straw hats on, others with baskets on their heads, and yet, again, some with nothing but a "piccaninny" stowed away on their backs by a cotton cloth wrap- ped about the waist. All of the people, especially the wo- men, were cheerful, and answered with a smile our " Bon jour, ma chere," often having a reply to offer. In fact, throughout my visit to Hayti, I was satisfied that the majority of the people are quiet, docile, and peaceful, and that it is only owing to their chiefs and party leaders that the men are so brutish, in many cases made so by their vagabond life as soldiers. Countrywoman and " Piccaninny-' SUGAR-CANE CULTIVATION. 457 Ruined walls, houses, gateways, ay, even the remains of a bridge, met us at various distances out, marking the era of a past civilisation, which, alas ! seems now to he utterly extinct ; while the agriculture that had once made this island to blossom as a garden, with its superb coffee places and sugar estates, has now sunk into nothing; for the traveller beholds naught but the plantain patch, the wild coffee-field, or the small field of sugar-cane, whose product is principally used to make the drink, rum, or tafia, that has as much to do, as anything else, after the miser- able Government, with the degradation of the people. After some hours of riding we came upon a tract of country in which we see " sugar estates " that have more claim to the name, for the houses and mills are larger and more numerous, and the extent of cane cultivated greater; but even of these the product is principally rum and tafia. We found we had plenty of streams to cross, and farther on we discovered the rain-storm had been travelling ahead of us, the roads being now heavy with mud and water, and as the soil is the same rich clay or loam that prevails in similar places in Dominica, we were not sorry, after a fatiguing ride of some fifteen miles, to find ourselves at our destination, just as night overtook us. My letter presented, we were soon made welcome, and bestowed in comfortable quarters, our host entertaining us with his experiences of sugar-cane growing; and as this is about the only regularly organised place in the island, his remarks will give a more than flattering idea of labour and agriculture on the island. He has under cultivation a thousand acres of cane, which is growing all the year round, for as fast as cut down it renews itself from the same stalk, no attention being paid to the weeding, hoeing, or care of the cane, as is done in Cuba. His labourers are all blacks, all living on the place or in the vicinity, and his contracts are made with about 458 SANTO DOMINGO. thirty-five heads of families to do the necessary work, the average wages per hand being about twelve cents per day, and this he esteems expensive labour for the quality furnished. He has little or no strong control over this labour, being compelled to humour the hands in great degree in their holidays, fandangos, and church celebrations. He has steam-engines, distilleries, and valuable apparatus, under charge of a coloured engineer, to whom he pays |12 per month, the whole place being in charge of an administra- tor, who receives a salary or interest. Contrary to every other sugar-producing country, the mills stop every day; and when I ask if this is as profitable as running the mills night and day during the regular season, the reply is, " If I attempted such a thing my plan- tation would be burned by the people." Although some $50,000 have been invested in the place, ■it yields, owing to the poor labour and the irregular system of agriculture, a rather slim return, and this is only in rum and tafia, little or no sugar being produced. Many of the neighbouring plantations that have no mills send their cane to this one to be ground. A schoolhouse has been established on the place, and maintained at private expense, it being open to all the children of the neighbourhood ; but such is the condition of the people, and the lack of interest they take in bettering themselves, that not over fifteen pupils attend the school. In the morning early my host bade me good-bye, as he returned to Port-au-Prince, while I, with a guide, under- took a day's journey and return, to the celebrated Lake of Saumatre, which lies equally between Dominica and Hayti, some twenty miles from my stopping-place. The French name this lake from its bitter-tasted waters, and the Spaniards bestow upon it the name of A^iuey, the line of demarcation between the two nationalities cutting it in two nearly equal parts lengthwise ; and the waters are said to JOURNEY TO LAKE AZUEY. 459 have the curious peculiarity of ebbing and flowing like the tides of the sea. However, bright and early we started on our long and tedious journey, my guide being a coloured man from Phil- adelphia, formerly a servant in a family there, but for many years domesticated in Hayti, and by name Jerry. Jerry was a bright, smart fellow, fond of study, and intelli- gent in the affairs and condition of the Haytians, and I was much the gainer in information from the day he spent with me ; and as he not only speaks English but creole perfectly, he was of great service. Our road still lay through a flat and uninteresting country, the soil of a sort of white clay in many parts, in others of dark rich loam, it being all well watered and wooded, the agriculture being limited to the cane, plantain, and wild coffee. The country was only sparsely settled by negroes living in the rudest of huts, with no attempts at gardens or improvements of any kind. .At some of the little settlements through which we rode we found parties of the men gathered fighting cocks, while at others the sound of the tum-tum or banjo gave notice of a fandango that was taking place. In another place, as we drew near the frontier, in passing a large house with a number of men seated or standing about it, we were halted and directed to dismount, upon doing which we found it was the headquarters of the com- mandant, and a guardhouse near the frontier, and thus I expected to have had some trouble, as being an American, and having no authority to travel, I was liable to be in- terfered with. I don't know how Jerry fixed it, but I do know the oflicer was very polite, inviting us to take a little tafia with him, and, very glad not to be stopped on my journey, I accepted his apologies with great pleasure. Another hour's ride brought us, through woods and bottom-lands, to our first view of the lake, but both 460 SANTO BO MINGO. our horses and ourselves being in need of rest, we stopped at a small canuco in search of food and rest. Luckily for me, we, had taken the precaution to bring a few crackers with us, otherwise we should have fared badly, for not a thing could we buy. Eggs they had none ; fish, although the lake was full, they did not catch ; oranges they did not grow; and thus, here in a land that ought positively to flow with milk and honey, it is impossible to get a mouth- ful of any wholesome Christian food. I asked Jerry how these people lived, both here and on ' Uncles and Mammies.' the plantations, and he assured me the only food eaten by them — men, women, and children — was ordinarily a sweet potato or plantain, boiled or roasted, with a drink of tafia-rum, and that with this they constantly eat the sugar-cane. As a very great luxury they might very rarely eat a piece of salt mackerel or codfish, and if they AMERICAN NEGROES. 461 happened to go to town, a small roll of bread would be purchased as a great luxury. At different times there have been a number of American negroes brought out and located on the island, but in most cases bad faith was kept with them. In the case of those who came out with Redpath, many of them were deceived, and forced to work two days in the week for Government in order to contribute to the money for their passage out. Some of these old people quite amused me with their questions about "home," and many of them reminded me of the " uncles " and " mammies " of the Southern States. These were a very different class from those I had met in Port-au-Prince, some of whom, quite intelligent people otherwise, carried away by their position as successful mer- chants, spoke rather contemptuously of their less favoured brethren. One of the most singular things I observed was that here, on this side the frontier, with identically the same soil and climate as that in Dominica, tobacco was not raised, and was considered a great and rare luxury, while just on the other side the Dominicans raised abundance. So also with cattle; while there there was abundance, here there was none to be seen, except maybe a sheep or two, or perhaps a goat. While our horses were feeding I endeavoured to get a siesta upon a palm-leaf mat that had been spread upon the ground for me. Vain hope ! for in the branches of the cocoanut-trees in whose shade I was lying were some bee- hives, their occupants buzzing about; over and under me the fleas and mosquitoes fought as to which should have me in possession, while an occasional ray of the hot sun warmed me up into a state of tropical frenzy, until, desperate with my inflictions, I gave the order to saddle up, and Jerry and I were soOn, after a rough ride of a mile, at the border of the beautiful lake of Azuey, where, in old times, sugar places 462 SANTO DOMINGO. and French civilisation made this a garden, now, alas ! wild and uncultivated, even unmarked by such a sign as would show what had been, were it not for the piles of ruined walls and stones that marked a garden wall. The lake is surrounded by steep hills, except on the southern side, where is a small plain, filled in days gone by with beautiful sugar places. The water is clear as crystal, and looked very tempting to us after our long journey and unsuccessful attempt at refreshments. We hitched our horses in the woods, and going to the only favourable spot on the shore, found a small party of coloured females washing clothes. I remarked, " It was a nice place to bathe." " Oh ! yes," they said, " very nice." I suggested that we had some idea of going in. They thought we would like it. I began to "peel," apologising for disturbing them, which I did not succeed in doing, as they said, " Oh ! don't mind us" — and Jerry laughingly exclaimed, "Oh! you needn't be so modest; they ain't afraid, if you are not." Ah ! cosa d! Haiti ! But the water was good and invigor- ating, combining as it did all the elements of hot and cold baths — ^for there were springs of both all in a very small space. It may be for this reason I could not dis- cover any brackish taste in the water, for which the lake is celebrated ; but at the end of the lake, where there are some salt mines, this peculiarity may exist in a more marked degree. The lake is a very pretty one, looking exactly like some of our Hudson River or Lake George scenery. It is about fifteen miles long and about eight miles wide in the widest part, being capable of steamboat navigation, it is said. After we came out we were pleasantly informed there were crocodiles there, too, and I have to thank them for the respect they manifested to the person of the first American who had ever bathed there. DEPARTVEE. 463 Heavy clouds warned us of an approaching storm, which finally broke upon the other side of the lake, and so we were soon in the saddle, hoping to outride the rain, which we succeeded in doing for an hour or two. But finally it came upon us — a pouring, heavy rain, that came straight down, leaving no hope of keeping dry even with umbrella and poncho. But why describe that long and weary ride home — the mud and mire, the water above and below, the swollen streams, the tired horses and riders, and the long, weary hours before we reached our night's destiuation, or the long and uninteresting journey over the same road next morning to Port-au-Prince ? Suffice it to say that, with that last journey and the advent of the rainy season, I concluded that, having visited the most favoured parts, I had seen enough of the interior of Hayti, and glad I was to get back to comfortable quarters and civilised food in Port-au-Prince. Next day, going on board the steamer that was to return me to the States, I found her, with a full cargo of coffee and logwood, ready to sail, a number of passengers having also engaged passage in her to New York. A lively time we had getting off, for among the passen- gers were the American Consul and his wife, who, after a residence of many years, were taking their departure for good, their leave-taking of the town and its people being marked by the assembling on the wharf and steamer of all the principal people, black, white, and coloured. Then there was a young belle, too, whose friends, with the " sympathy " peculiar to these people, gathered to take a last farewell ; and as most of those were handsome young people of the feminine order, there were some of us quite sorry not to have such charming friends to whom to say good-bye in Haytian fashion (i.e., kissing on both cheeks). My farewell was of a different order, however ; for as I 464 SANTO DOMINGO. grasped the hand of a stalwart merchant, the last to go over the side, he said, " Remember me to H ; tell him Hayti hasn't changed for the better ; that, bad as things were when he was here twenty years ago, they are to-day ten times worse." Alas ! poor Hayti ! But now we are clear of the deck, tears are shed, handkerchiefs waved, and at last we are steaming over the beautiful bay to Gonaives, our last place to visit in Hayti. With placid sea and soft skies I find it more agreeable to swing my hammock on deck for the night than to go below in the cabin. Many of the passengers think as I do, and stretch themselves on deck, being protected from night dews by the awning ; therefore we are all ready, when day breaks, to get the first glimpse of the little town of Gronaives, which, though situated in a beautiful bay, offers nothing very attractive in its landscape sur- roundings. The anchor dropped, a party of us were soon ashore in the fresh early morning, being received at the landing by a German merchant, who acts as Consul for the United States. Then we saunter through the great, wide, hot streets of the town, that looks as if it were originally intended to be a place ten times its size. We went into the large church filled with its dusky devotees ; and while my devout com- panion says her morning prayers, I occupy myself in studying out the problem of the church architecture and decoration, and the authorship of some of the paintings upon the walls. Then a stroll through the market-place, with its country people dealing in small supplies ; through the " Place," with its one tomb or monument to a defunct Colonel Somebody, and we have seen the entire town of Gonaives, and are ready to enjoy the hospitalities of the tasteful and comfortable mansion of the Consul, presiding over which is his charming wife. Yet Gonaives is a place of some importance in the GONAIVES. ■ 465 commercial world, for here are shipped large quantities of the coffee of the island, of which that produced about Gronaives is said to be the very best. Cotton, too, is produced, and used to be shipped in large quantities, while, in the palmy days of Hayti, when there was an agricultural system, indigo in large quantities was an important product. The town is situated on a flat, level plain, its name being the original Indian name, though the place was not really settled until about 1738. The place is historic, as having been the port from which Toussaint L'Ouverture embarked in the Heros for France, never more to be actively heard of in the annals of the country ; but here also was proclaimed the solemn Declara- tion of Independence that made the Haytians freemen ; otherwise it is one of the most uninteresting places I have seen. Again we are on board the ship, steering along the coast, which presents the same characteristics of rocky shore, verdure-clad hills, or curious tableland, forms that have entitled this part of the coast to the name of Platform ; and as the shades of night are closing in, we see behind us the last point, as we head directly north, of the Mole St Nicolas ; whereupon, with visions of the balmy days of a northern spring before us, we join heartily in the chorus ascending to those tropic skies, of — " A wet sheet and a flowing sea, And a health to the Homeward Bound ! " 2g CHAPTER XXIV. APPENDATOET. ' Methinks I see my country rise, Her regal emblem now no longer a bird of prey. But spreading out her ample wing, A broad impartial covering. The weaker sheltered by the stronger." General View of St Domingo — Some Reflections on its Future — Views of President Grant — Climate — Insects — Seasons — Lands — Emigrants — The Population and its Character — Finances — Concessions and Grants — Hints to Emigrants or Travellers — Dominican Manifestoes — General Statistics — Treaty for Fixing the Boundaries — Notes on the Mineral Products of the Island. TF the reader has accompanied me thus far, he will now -^ have a good idea of the past history of St Domingo, as also its present condition. If, in some of my descriptions of the people, I may have appeared more candid than perhaps good taste or cour- tesy would require, it has simply been that I might place distinctly before the world the actual condition to-day of this island and its people, and this with the sole view of benefiting them. No one could be more astonished than was the author when, having carefully followed all the discussions in the APPENDATORY. 467 United States upon this subject, and having his mind filled with the denunciations of this island and its people (by political leaders for political purposes), he landed upon the shores of St Domingo, where, instead of finding war and bloodshed, troops and cannon, and a people controlled by- mere force, he found instead everywhere the utmost peace and quietness. Greater still was his astonishment when, reaching St Domingo city, the headquarters of the tyrant, the usurper, Baez, he found that person in peaceful occupation of the Presidential chair, or walking about like any other citizen, unattended or supported by the armed myrmidons that had been described as alone keeping him in place. In order not to fatigue the reader, I have touched in my journeying very lightly on the sentiment of annexation to the United States among the people of St Domingo ; but here I deem it a fitting place to testify to the almost universal wish of the people, high and low, to come into the American Union ; and this testimony may be esteemed of greater weight when I say, that it was elicited, not only from the people in many a quiet talk, in dwellings and stores, in towns and villages, away from any official presence or influence, but also in the wilds and solitudes, where I heard but one cry, " Give us peace and safety, and good roads." In the contest of politics against St Domingo annexa- tion, some of our wisest and best men seem to have been led astray either by false information or through ignorance of the actual condition of affairs in that island, and some phases of this contest would appear ludicrous were not the results so serious. Here, for instance, while a champion is wielding the weapon of defence in favour of the revolutionist Cabral, the latter comes forth and refuses to be defended in the following " official document," of which such fellows always seem to have a large supply, thus : — 468 APPENDATORT. GOD. COUNTRY. LIBERTY. JosB Maeia Cabeal, General of Division of the National Armies, and Superior Chief of the Revolutionary Movement, &c. To tlie Honourahle President of the Senate of the United States of America. Honourable Peesident — The honourable Charles Sumner of Massachusetts, in his discourse upon the proposed annexation of the Island of St Domingo, pronounced in the Senate the 21st December 1870, says, with reference to my policy, "They have assured me that his policy (Cabral's) is to unite the two Governments of Hayti and Dominica, as they were before the revolution and war that lasted from 1846 to 1848 (?), terminating with the insecure indepen- dence of the Dominican part of the island." The policy that the Senator Sumner attributes to me being that which neither my party nor I foUow, I consider it my duty to protest, as I here do, against this part of the above discourse ; and in doing this, I believe I have well interpreted the wishes of my associates, and fulfilled one of the sacred duties that have been im- posed upon me as chief of a party. I have the honour, &c. Jose Maeia Cabeal. Neyba, February 18, 1871. But this distinguished champion was not allowed to escape the wrath of the opponents of Cabral either ; for the Boletin Official of St Domingo says, " Mr Sumner, the orator of the Senate at Washington, whose lips should never be opened except to utter political or social oracles in accord with his great reputation, . . . wounded in his self- respect, &c., runs as the wounded stag, and in his flight fastens deeper and deeper the dart that wounds him. The Commission will see that the lamentations of Mr Sumner are nothing but the ignorance of our history, and a means of discrediting the high and wise policy and the aspiration of an immense majority." But having made ourselves acquainted with the past and present of this beautiful land, the question naturally arises, what will be its future ? Not only are the Dominicans and the Haytians inter- APPEFDATORY. 469 ested in this question, but so is all the world, and especiallj' the American people. The philanthropist, the statesman, the merchant, and the manufacturer, are all equally con- cerned in an island which, under certain circumstances, will conduce to advance the cause of civilisation and humanity, the extension of trade and the production of necessary articles. Though, as an American, I should be glad to see our institutions carried into that island, and our great privilege of self-government bestowed upon the people of the tropics, yet I should be equally glad, for the sake of the Dominicans and the Haytians, to see their island allied to some pro- gressive Government ; and Germany has already a strong footing on the island in the hold her merchants have acquired on its trade and commerce. That any Government would profit by this connection there is not the slighest reason to doubt; but to the United States, from their position, would accrue advantages and benefits that could come to no other nation ; and these were perhaps never more clearly and soundly expressed by any statesman than by General Grant in his annual message when recommending the measure to national legislation. He said : — " During tlie last session of Congress a treaty for annexation of the republic of St Domingo to the United States failed to receive the requisite two-thirds vote of the Senate. I was thoroughly con- vinced then that the best interests of this country, commercially and materially, demanded its ratification. " Time has only confirmed me in this view. I now firmly believe that the moment it is known that the United States have entirely abandoned the project of accepting as a part of its territory the Island of St Domingo, a free port will be negotiated for by European nations. " In the Bay of Samana a large commercial city will spring up, to which we will be tributary without receiving corresponding benefits, and then will be seen the foUy of our rejecting so great a prize. The Government of St Domingo has voluntarily sought this annexation. It is a weak power, numbering probably less than one hundred and twenty thousand souls, and yet possessing one of the richest terri- tories under the sun, capable of supporting a population of ten 470 APPENDATOBY. millions of people in luxury. The people of St Domingo are not capable of maintaining themselves in their present condition, and must look for outside support. They crave the protection of our free institutions and our laws, our progress and civilisation. Shall we refuse them? The acquisition of St Domingo is desirable because of its geographical position. It commands the entrance to the Caribbean Sea and the Isthmus transit of commerce; it possesses the richest soil, best and most capacious harbours, most salubrious climate, and the most valuable products of the forest, mine, and soil of any of the West India Islands. Its possession by us wiU in a few years build up a coastwise commerce of immense magnitude, which will go far toward restoring to us our lost merchant marine. It will give to us those articles which we consume so largely and do not produce, thus equalising our exports, and imports. In case of foreign war it will give us command of all the islands referred to, and thus prevent an enemy from ever again possessing himself of rendezvous upon our very coast. At present our coast trade between the States bordering on the Atlantic and those bordering on the Gulf of Mexico is cut in two by the Bahamas and Antilles twice. We must, as it were, pass through foreign countries to get by sea from Georgia to the west coast of Florida. St Domingo, with a stable Government, under which her immense resources can be developed, will give remunerative wages to tens of thousands of labourers, not now upon the island. This labour will take advan- tage of every available means of transportation to abandon the adjacent islands and seek the blessings of freedom and its sequence, each inhabitant receiving the reward of his own labour. Porto Hico and Cuba will have to abolish slavery as a measure of self- preservation to retain their labourers. St Domingo will become a large consumer of the products of Northern farms and manufactories. The cheap rate at which her citizens can be furnished with food, tools, and machinery will make it necessary that contiguous islands should have the same advantages in order to compete in the produc- tion of sugar, coffee, and tobacco, tropical fruits, &c. " This will open to us a stiU wider market for our products. The production of our own supply of these articles will cut off more than one hundred millions of our annual imports, besides, largely increas- ing our exports. " The acquisition of St Domingo is an adherence to the Monro doctrine ; it is a measure of national protection ; it is asserting our just claim to a controlling influence over the great commercial traffic soon to flow from west to east by way of the Isthmus of Darien ; it is to build up our merchant marine ; it is to furnish new markets for the products of our farms, shops, and manufactories ; it is to APPENDATORY. 471 make slavery insupportable in Cuba and Eorto Eioo at once, and ultimately so in Brazil ; it is to settle the unhappy condition of Cuba, and end an exterminating conflict ; it is to furnish our citizens with the necessaries of everyday life at cheaper rates than ever before ; and it is, in fine, a rapid stride toward that greatness which the intelligence, industry, and enterprise of the citizens of the United States entitle this country to assume among nations. So convinced am I of the advantages to flow from the acquisition of St Domingo, and of the great disadvantages — I might almost say calamities — to flow from non-acquisition, that I believe the subject has only to be investigated to be approved." And it can be said that if this doctrine of Monro is to be maintained with any reason by the United States, it is hardly fair to the Dominicans to say to them, " You shall not come into our Union, but neither will we allow you to ally yourself with any one else." Other nationalities might naturally have something to say in this direction ; for, as said the London Times (Nov. 29, 1869), on receipt of the news of an expedition starting from the United States to take possession of Samana, which was looked upon by some as a stepping-stone to Hayti, and from Hayti to Cuba: — " The commercial life that would be imparted by these move- ments can hardly be over-estimated; and hence, supposing them to be carried out with fairness to all parties concerned, they may be contemplated as full of- promise in favour of an extension of British trade." If it be the mission of England to colonise and settle (see parliamentary debates on Fiji annexation) the desolate spots of the world, it may be claimed for the United States that it is hers to encourage all aspirants for civil liberty in any part of the New World, and either by her protection or incorporation lend a helping hand to human- ising all young peoples irrespective of race or colour. One of the most curious features about St Domingo is, that although it is the fashion to-day to belie and be-little it, yet in all the authorities, from the time of its discovery to the present time, no matter of what nationality, there is 472 APPENDATORT. 4^ hardly a ■writer who does not speak in the most glowing terms of this island, its climate, its scenery, productions, and the general natural intelligence of its people, and their gentleness and kindness of disposition under favourable circumstances. I am glad to bear testimony to the fact, from personal observation, that the masses of the people of St Domingo will compare favourably with those of Great Britain, Belgium, or France. Canon Kingsley has been by some deemed romantic because, familiar as he is with the lower classes of his own country, and with the masses particularly of the London population, who live, in many cases, utterly ignorant of pure air, light, and warmth, he should wish that the beau- tiful but unsettled solitudes of the New World might be peopled by some of their number. But the writer so far agrees with him that he wishes, in these days of international meetings, that some grand in- ternational organisation could be formed to transport those who have not the means themselves, to those parts of the western continent where a new field of health, labour, and riches would be open to the teeming populations of the old world, and no more favourable or desirable spot does he know than the beautiful Island of St Domingo. While I do not wish to inflict upon the reader a mass of dry statistics, which he would probably never read, it is due to the full understanding of our subject that I give some practical information in reference to matters that have been much misunderstood, most of which I extract from the reports of the United States Commissioners, verified as it has been by my own personal experience and consultation of every available authority. And, firstly, in regard to climate and health. The testi- mony of witnesses, the observation of the Commissioners, and the reports of special investigations, show that it is generally a healthy country. Emigrants easily become accustomed to the climate. On the coast, where hot weather prevails, care APPENDATORY. 473 must be taken. Individuals from the Northern States, now residing on the coast, and engaged in cultivating plan- tations there, say they can labour with their own hands, and that white men may work under certain regulations as safely as in the United States. As a fair illustration of this, it may be stated that the greater numbers of those persons engaged in commerce are foreigners, from France, from England, from Spain, but more particularly from Germany, all of whom, with perhaps the exception of those residing in Port-au-Prince and Cape Haytian, enjoy as good health as they did in their own countries. The mountain slopes and valleys, overlooked or sur- rounded by lofty ridges, are comparatively cool, and are favourable to Northern constitutions. Within a few hours' ride inland farms were visited, where the temperature, cooled by the neighbouring peaks, was bracing ; and in the same fields could be seen growing cabbage and bananas, potatoes and plantains, Indian-corn and sugar-cane, &c. Effective labour can be prosecuted by white men in such regions, and general good health maintained. The pro- cess of acclimation to strangers coming in was so slight as to be scarcely an inconvenience. It may be said generally that this process presents no greater obstacle to emigration than does the similar process in several of our new States. The physical configuration of the island is such that a decided difference exists between its eastern and western ends in regard to health. In the eastern or windward portion of the island, occupied by the Dominican republic, the principal mountain chains run in lines approaching an east and west direction. The valleys between them are therefore swept during the greater portion of the year by the trade winds, which in that latitude come from directions east and north-east. These valleys are thus con- stantly supplied with pure air from the sea, and malarious influences are rapidly dissipated. 474 APPENDATORY. On the other hand, the west end of the island, occupied by Hayti, is walled in on its eastern or leeward side by chains of high mountains running in irregular curves from north to south. It would appear that these act to some extent as barriers to the trade winds ; and to this fact, coupled with the influence of neighbouring marshes and mangrove swamps, it is due in a great measure that Port- au-Prince and the countrj' about it have so bad a reputa- tion in regard to health. As to the large towns, there can be no doubt that the want at present of any practical application of sanitary knowledge causes them to rank far lower in regard to health than they otherwise would. Among the leading historical events connected with Hayti and St Domingo which have stamped themselves upon the public mind are the dreadful epidemics, principally yellow fever, which ravaged the English, the French, and the Spanish armies successively landed upon the coast. The victims were Europeans, and their sad fate inter- ested millions, so that in the public mind St Domingo and yellow fever became almost synonymous. It is a matter of history that the most fatal expedition — that ot the French at the beginning of this century — conducted its operations mainly in the Haytian part of the island. But this may be accounted for by the manner in which these troops were used. Where actively emploj'^ed, they committed many indiscretions, and were devoid of many of the necessary comforts to which even the soldier is accus- tomed; especially was their clothing utterly unfitted for the climate in which they served. Add to this, operations were carried on without regard to the peculiarities of a climate which seems to demand that every one shall avoid for a few hours all labour under a tropic mid-day sun. But the greatest loss of the French was experienced while cooped up in the towns, or on shipboard, while being APPENDATORY. 475 besieged by the negroes, and, as we have shown in the early chapters, in many cases forced to resort to dog-meat for food. But probably their greatest losses were occasioned by the harassing nature of their conflicts with the negroes, who, laying aside all established tactical rules of organisation and manoeuvre, simply became a vast body of skirmishers, retiring when attacked to their woods and hills, and then harassing, by ambushed and detached fire, old troops who had not yet learned the great art of modern warfare, of in- dependently availing themselves of advantages offered for shelter by the nature of the ground. The English expedition to St Domingo, which is some- times referred to, so far as can be ascertained, was not attended by any greater loss of life from disease than might have been expected with the imperfect sanitary regulations of military forces which have existed down to a recent period. One of the medical officers attached to the English army remarks upon the cause of the great sickness of the troops in saying, " They were overworked, dispirited, and shut up in towns where they were deprived of every comfort, and thus gave way. They pursued a diet opposite to that of the French; eating meat freely, and drinking ardent spirits ; and being of plethoric habit, were quickly susceptible to the heat. The French, on the contrary, prepared themselves by gentle purges, ate little meat, and drank little wine, and that of the lightest kind, being particular to get a tepid bath each day." Yet another writer says, " We have seen in St Domingo and Guadaloupe bodies of white troops, always active and in movement, execute on the largest scale field fortifications, and conclude their tasks with as much celerity as though they had lived all their life in Europe. And they resisted the attacks of tropical disease much better than those of the garrison who lived in idleness." " The losses of the Spanish army from illness were largely 476 APPENDATORY. due to the utter lack of sanitary care ; and the Commis- sioners are satisfied that those losses have been enormously exaggerated. The Commissioners have given special attention to the matter of health; and besides getting information from other quarters, they have charged two medical gentlemen to report specially upon it. Their con- clusion is this : " The popular idea that the Dominican territory is parti- cularly unhealthy, and that persons visiting it are periodi- cally liable to yellow fever, is entirely erroneous. The average general health and longevity is quite equal to, and probably greater than, that of the United States, as a whole. Immigrants are not liable to any more disturbance of general health in the process of acclimation, than are persons who pass from the old to the new States of the United States ; and, saving upon the sea-coast, the process is so gentle as to escape notice. Taking the year through, as much agricultural work can be done without affecting health as can be done in our middle and western States, and with greater results. Persons in all circumstances can here enjoy, by selecting their locality, a delicious climate and abundance of fruit, with far less liability to diseases of the lungs, to scarlet fever, and other fearful epidemics, and without any liability to yellow fever." The yellow fever in St Domingo, of which it is not a native, is different from that experienced in Philadelphia, as described by Dr Rush, and is not contagious ; even in Cuba it is much overrated, for even there it is confined to localities always on the coast. The moment one retires to the interior or the hills, there is no danger. So evident is this, that the little village of Guanabacoa, hardly two miles from Havana, has had one battalion of newly-arrived troops perfectly safe during the fever season, while another, stationed in Havana, lost half its men. As regards St Domingo, my own experience, confirmed APPENDATOBY. 477 by that of almost every member of the Commission, was that we could find no trace that yellow fever had ever pre- vailed in any of this part of the island as an epidemic. A fellow-passenger, previously alluded to, and who, for over twenty years, had been a resident medical man at Santiago, assured me that, though he had been in every quarter of the globe, he had never met with a climate so undoubtedly salubrious as that of St Domingo ; and while not denying that yellow fever was as likely to visit the coast-line as an epidemic as any of the other West Indies, said it had never yet done so, except in the case of accumulated numbers of foreign troops. His views of sanitary measures for new-comers, being also those found in many reliable authorities, it may be said that, if attended to, they would uadoubtedly be accompanied with good results. These are simply a gentle purge before landing, obviated in the case of those who have been sea-sick. A sparing use of 'fruit on first arrival. No matter what the nature of the outside clothing, which may be a light tweed or linen, a flannel shirt should in- variably be worn next the skin. A very moderate use of wines, and especially ardent spirits; the free use of water, and ice unlimited, if to be had ; a daily bath, cold in the morning, and tepid in the evening, is of great service to the health. Tafia, a superior quality of the native rum, if made into a punch with lemon and ice, is cooling to the blood. If to these are added exercise or labour, avoiding mid-day sun, and also great fatigue, general health would be as good here as in any part of the world to those residing on the coast, while in the interior there is nothing to appre- hend on the score of health. Two seasons are distinguished in the island — winter and summer. From the month of May to October, the rains are abundant, but diminishing in their quantity towards the latter month. From February to April, usually the 47S APPENDAT0R7. season is known as the dry. In May and June the rains are not only heavy, but accompanied with thunder and lightning. The following is from M. St Mery : — " CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE. " The island consisting partly in mountains and partly in plains, causes a great variety in the climate and temperature. This variety is especially produced by the situation in the region of the trade ■winds, as the wind coming from the east, towards which the island presents its whole length, finds in the intervals of the chains of mountains so many channels of circulation, by means of which it refreshes and tempers the mountains, an advantage that the plains, where portions of the mountains sometimes interrupt the passage of the wind and change its direction, do not partake in. Besides, a crowd of local circumstances, such as the elevation of the land, the quantity of water that runs over it, and the scarcity or abundance of wood, have a sensible influence upon the effect of the climate. " If some powerful cause did not balance the action of the sun under the torrid zone, which darts its rays almost perpendicularly during about three months in the year at St Domingo, the tempera- ture of this island would be insupportable to man, or at least to the man that nature had not formed on purpose for the climate. But this cause is in the wind, of which we have just spoken, the salutary effects of which soften those of the sun. " To the benign influence of the wind may be added that of the almost equal length of the days and nights, and that of abundant rains, which continually fill the air with a fluidity always desirable, and which, falling in profusion on the surface of the island, pro- duces, with the assistance of the evaporation caused by the heat, a sort of coolness in the air. " The eastern wind blows at St Domingo, as in the rest of the Antilles, almost all the day long, during the greatest part of the year. It begins pretty regularly about nine or ten o'clock in the morning ; rising as the sun rises towards his meridian height, and even after he begins to descend towards the west, it continues with unabated strength till two or three hours before sunset. This wind is commonly called at St Domingo the sea breeze, in opposition to that which I am now going to speak of. " The name of land breeze is given to a wind which cools the nights, and which blows from the interior mountains. It generally begins to be felt about two or three hours after sunset, and continues till sunrise. " The effect of these two breezes form a curious contrast. That APPENDATOBY. 479 of the sea, coining from the circumference towards the centre, is seen advancing in that direction, agitating the leaves and other volatile bodies near the coast. The land breeze has an effect exactly opposed, and the more the situation approaches the centre of the island the sooner does it manifest itself. " It must not, however, be imagined, that the succession of these breezes is so very regular as not to be subject to any variation. At certain times of the year, and particularly during the equinoxes and solstices, the sea breeze becomes very strong, sometimes even im- petuous, and, during several days, blows without interval, or with but short pauses ; during which time the land breeze is not felt at all. At such seasons the violence of the sea breeze usually augments at the rising of the sun, as if encouraged by his presence. "At other times the land breeze predominates, which happens, for instance, in the tempestuous seasons. As almost all the tempests come from the interior part of the island, as soon as they begin to overspread the sky the sea breeze dies away, leaving the empire of the horizon to that of the land, which spreads in every direction, but with unequal rapidity, thick dark clouds, loaded with thunder and lightning, and pouring down deluges of rain. After the tempest is over, the land breeze continues predominant for the night, and even till the next day, when the sea breeze drives it back to its retreat in the mountains. " From the combined effect of the two breezes, comes an almost continual agitation in the air, which necessarily has a great deal of influence on its constituent qualities. With the sea breeze the air acquires the quality that gives to the lungs what is necessary to resist the heat and to cool the blood, which an abundant perspiration tends to heat and impoverish. But it is for the cheering return of the land breeze that the inhabitants of St Domingo wait with im- patience. This refreshing breeze gives to the whole body a calm sensation that the soul soon participates ; it invites sleep, renders it restorative, and, in the high lands, it strengthens the fibres, and even prolongs life." In the low grounds, the thermometer does not descend below 84° F., and ascends as high as 91°; but in the high lands, as has already been stated, the temperature is equable and agreeable. Notwithstanding this, however, the inhabitants scarcely agree upon what periods of the year ought to be designated winter and summer. Those who live to the west and south and midland parts consider the time between April and 480 APPENDATORY. November as including the winter months or season of storms ; the inhabitants of the northern districts reckon just the reverse, but neither of them speak of spring or autumn. The best season, however, for the new-comer to land and become easily acclimated may be said to be any time after October. In reference to the common belief that all the West India islands are the home of innumerable insects of a venomous nature, it may be said that this is quite wrong. The scor- pion, so much dreaded by the Northern mind, I saw very infrequently ;i^^---''- ■ -. .;V:-'''" in St Domingo, and Scorpion. thcu it was uot the wicked, alarming thing I had imagined ; and its sting is never dangerous, however inconvenient in its effects. The tarantula and lizard I have already alluded to, and there only remains the centipede to speak of, which is rarely met with, and then no more unpleasant in its effects than those ^~— of the Southern '=™"P'<^'=- States. But this beautifal isle has no such pests as we possess in the galaxy of venomous reptiles and snakes, and even the primeval forests are void of any wild animals. The natural productions of this island it would be impos- sible, in a volume like this, to describe. Suffice it to say, that in addition to those already mentioned, the soil and climate APPENDATORY. 481 are capable of producing almost every variety known in the world ; while of the various woods, many almost unknown to commerce, the supply is unlimited. The most interesting subject for the emigrant would naturally be the land ques- tion ; and of land there is abundance of every kind, which for many years is likely to be had at a reasonable rate. The tenure at present is very peculiar, the system in vogue being that known as the " Communero," a term which must not be confounded with that of land of the commune. The first arises from the fact that landed property, at the time of the conquest of the island, and during the following centuries, was held in the manner then prevailing, as a consequence of feudalism. Society being divided between lords and vassals, masters and slaves, the land was made pro- ductive by the sweat of the unfortunates who did not reap and enjoy its harvests, and it passed undivided into the hands of the privileged heir, in conformity to the laws of primo- geniture and entail, in order to preserve the lustre of family names. Religious communities considered as corporate moral persons and feudal lords, also possessed landed property ; and as they had no family pride, and their only interest was that of the corporation, their property, however indivisible, became a resource for the poor colonist, who, unable to acquire an estate gratuitously, or conditioned on a burden of service, as did the nobility, found a means of living by his own work by renting monastic lands, paying a certain annual fee, or the offering of tithe, and the first-fruits of his crops. The original owners held by a complete title, and most of them were provided with a document called royal guar- antee (Amparo Real), by which the king guaranteed the validity of their acquisitions. At the death of the pro- prietor of an estate in the country, of whatever description, whether lots, farming, sugar, or pasture lands, his children and wife, if he had any, inherited that property, as measured and marked, that is, contained within known limits, and fixed on the plat and survey. 2h 482 APPENDATORY. The proprietor having been married, under the rule of conjugal community of property, his surviving wife was entitled to one half of the land, and the children horn during the marriage to the other half. The family continuing to live on their estate, contained within the same limits, though possessed by a plurality of owners, established certain rules among themselves in order to live together, each by one's own work, without actually dividing the farm ; each of the brothers and sisters having a right equal to that of each of the others, and the widow her own, equal to that of them all. When these brothers married and had children, that division of shares was further subdivided, that is, in theo- retical right, but not in fact, — every one holding propor- tionate to his rights with reference to the extent of the entire tract inherited as shown by the titles. The causes that originally prevented the actual division of the ground were various — ] st. The high cost for surveying, which, multijplied accord- ing to the divisions made, would not only absorb, but exceed, the small value of the lands. 2d, The nature of such property itself, which cannot in fact be conveniently and equitably divided, all being united as constituent parts of a farm, viz., the savanas, or plains, for the pasture of horned cattle, horses, and sheep ; the woods, supplying timber, and whose shade is indispensable to animals during the heat of the day, and throughout the hot season ; the palm groves, furnishing boards and covering for the building of huts, and food for swine, and the fibres of which supply cordage to the country people ; finally, the lands fit for cultivation, and running waters or ponds for the use of both man and beast. As it would be impossible to give pasture, wood, arable land, and water to each of the owners, or to deprive them of a single one of these elements without causing them irrepar- able damage, the necessity arises for harmonising their in- terests through community of possession under a common APPENDATORT. 483 title. When any of the proprietors wishes to sell his share, after having offered it to his co-owners and been refused, he can sell it to a stranger, who enters not into the com- munity of the family, but into that of the proprietorship as co-owner. From this arises the curious custom of buying a right, by which any inhabitant of a commune can for $50 or $100 secure a right which gives him the privilege of the land just as much as though he owned it, upon which he can settle, and build, and cultivate as much as he likes, without further tax or rent ; this he buys from some one of the co-owners, each of whom has a right to his proportion. By a curious custom, however, which has become a law, a man who buys a right to settle or occupy land does not necessarily buy any privileges of mahogany-cutting ; this is a separate matter, and neither does the person buying the right to cut mahogany in a certain tract secure thereby any claim to the land. Of course, such customs can only exist without trouble in a country where land is abundant and the population small ; and it matters little at present, because the land is not measured. Thus a person buying for $50 the right to enter a communero tract, that may comprise several leagues, can take any part or all of it that is not occupied, no matter how much it may be, provided he does not inter- fere with the improved land of any one else, or the land from which is drawn their supplies of timber. To secure his title he must, however, occupy and use it. If, however, such person temporarily leaves his house for a year or more, and it burns down, and the improvements are not kept up, any other person has the right to enter upon and hold his tract. Naturally from this condition of affairs there is some- times considerable uncertainty about titles, and the most undoubted one is that where the owner can show undisputed possession for thirty years back, as that makes a good title. In regard to the public lands, there is no certainty as 484 APPENDATORY. regards the quantity, for even in the time of the Spaniards the archives had almost entirely disappeared'; and this again is suhject to the curious system of the " Communes,'-' which consist of the districts over which the " Ayuntamientos " rule, and who hold rights in all unclaimed lands for the commune. But these lands cannot be sold except by per- mission of the general Grovernment, although the commune can give such a lease as is equal to a title. There is no difficulty, however, in securing plenty of good land at a merely nominal sum ; and, as an illustration, an American has bought within a short distance of St Domingo city nearly three hundred acres of land for some $1200, upon which were some improvements of the value of about $600. He has held this land about three years, and now has fourteen thousand coffee-trees growing, hundreds of bread-fruit, tamarind, orange, lemon, lime, and aguacate trees, with acres of the cocoa-tree set out. From corn grass alone, this enterprising individual has been deriving a revenue of from $100 to $150 per month, without there being an ear of corn. In addition to these he has over four thousand banana- trees just commencing to bear. This is no singular case, but one that can occur with any ordinarily intelligent industrious man. The data furnished by authorities as to population are very meagre and unsatisfactory. An estimate was recently made by the ecclesiastical court, counting by parishes, which gave a total of 207,000. There are evident signs of errors in this estimate. For instance, the capital was set down at ten thousand ; while it is obvious to the careful observer who counts streets and houses, that there cannot be over six thousand, if so many. Comparing these figures of the ecclesiastical court with certain known facts, and with all the evidence we could gather from intelligent witnesses and personal observation, the Commission estimate that the actual population of the republic does not exceed 160,000. This does not include the many who have voluntarily APPENDATORY. 485 expatriated themselves on account of continual disturbances, nor the few who have been banished. It seems probable that more than nine-tenths, perhaps nineteeu-twentieths, are native Dominicans. The others are — first, coloured emigrants from the United States ; secondly, European traders, who do not settle anywhere, but sojourn at commercial points. Negro blood prepon- derates very largely in Hayti, but the pure negro of African type is not common even there. White blood preponderates largely in Dominica, but pure whites, in the popular sense of the word, are not numerous. The majority are of a mixed race, much nearer white than black. The great majority, especially along the coast, are neither pure black nor pure white; they are mixed in every conceivable degree. In some parts of the interior considerable numbers of the white race are to be found, and generally in the mixed race the white blood predominates. The Dominican people differ widely in this particular from the Haytians, among whom the black race is in complete ascendancy. The cultivated and educated, such as the President, members of his Cabinet, senators, judges, and local magistrates, compare well with the same classes in other countries, and the uneducated appear equal to the same class in any country with which we are acquainted. They seem to be practically destitute of prejudice of class, race, or colour. In their intercourse with each other and with strangers, they are courteous in manner, respectful, and polite. In all their relations with them the Com- missioners found them kind and hospitable. The testimony shows them to be an honest and inoffensive people, among whom, in the rural districts, a person may travel alone and unarmed all over the country with treasure without danger. All of the numerous parties attached to the Commission, which traversed various parts of the country, bear the same testimony concerning the people. The judicial officers stated that high crimes, such as murder. 486 APPENDATORY. arson, burglary, and the like, are nearly unknown among them. No pauper class exists, and beggary is almost un- known. They are temperate people, and drunken men are rarely seen. Among popular vices is that of petty gambling, which is indulged in openly and extensively, especially by the Spanish portion of the population. They are all Koman Catholics, except the American emigrants sent out in 1824 and succeeding years, who, with their descendants, now form a number of settlements, and amount to several thousand persons. These are mostly Methodists and Baptists. They live among the Catholics in peace and harmony. No intolerance or religious persecution can be discovered among them. The people are generally poor, living in cheap and humble dwellings, which, though well adapted to their country, might appear rude and uncomfortable to those accustomed to houses made for a more rigorous climate, but, as compared with those of the labouring class in Europe, infinitely superior. In the country, almost every family possesses all the land they desire to cultivate, which is generally one small field, for an acre or two well tilled is sufficient, in this fertile land, to fur- nish a family with their food. The reason they unanimously assign for not cultivating more is, that amid constantly recurring revolutions it is very uncertain who may reap the crop. Besides, there is no market here for surplus produce. As regards the future, this question of population is a very satisfactory one, if St Domingo should become allied to any strong Government ; for five years' emigration would entirely change its character, as has been the case in California. It has been the fashion among some of our politicians to urge the purchase of Cuba, even at the price of one hundred millions of dollars, and it has a large and extensively mixed population, with all their habits, ideas, and customs fully established, with still a larger number of slaves and coolies.* * The author takes the liberty of referring the reader interested in tliis subject to his previous work on Cuba, in which he will see how, even under APPENDATORY. 487 But here is an almost virgin island, more desirable in every way, with a free, limited, and simple people, who have no particularly fixed habits, ideas, or customs, that would not readily assimilate to those of the new-comers. One-tenth of the above-named sum, expended in improving the means of communication, in exploring and seeking information of its resources, with the change that American machinery and enterprise, accompanying emigration into the island, would bring, would in a few years give us an island equally valuable as Cuba, and aptly illustrate the fact that our institutions and civilisation are adapted to any climate and to any people. As a great deal has been said in reference to the finances and the land concessions of the Dominican Government, I here append the result of the searching investigations of the Commissioners. First, in reference to the "public debt. " The Commissioners made a careful and prolonged investigation into the important subject of the indebtedness of the Dominican Republic, collecting all the information that could be communicated by the officials whose special duty it was to know every detail of the finances and the liabilities of the Government, all that could be obtained from the records in the public offices, from the statements of claimants of every kind who could be heard of and found, and from the explanations of the President and his chief officers in regard to the whole and each item thereof They also received from the Senate a list of claims and their respective amounts pending before that body, which is appended. " The following summary statement exhibits briefly the result of those inquiries as to ' the debt of the Government and its obligations, whether funded and ascertained and admitted, or unadjusted and under discussion.' The receipts of the last three years have been mostly used for previous war debts, and for the cancelling of out- standing paper money. The latter, which originally amounted to the sum of $2,628,300, left in circulation by Cabral, has been nearly all redeemed by customs receipts, as was also the amount of $243,070 in Spanish war bonds. a despotic and shortsighted Government, this island has, within only a few years comparatively, and principally owing to the introduction of American machinery, been developed. The author believes the day St Domingo becomes one of the United States, that day is the value of Cuba lost to Spain. 488 APPENDAT0R7. I. The salaries due amount to ... . |600,000 00 II. Bonds, treasury notes, &c., viz. : — 1. Spanish war bonds, amount issued, . §324,160 00 Amount cancelled, . . , . 243,070 00 Amount outstanding, . . 81,090 00 2. Treasury notes, nominal balance in circulation, $147,575.18, at the price fixed by senatorial decree, $400 for one dollar in silver, gives reaUy .... 368 93f 3. Notes of credit (new paper money), nominal balance out of the Con- troller's office, $88,832.30 ; at 30 for one silver dollar, . . 2,961 07 4. Obligations of the present Adminis- tration, issued by the Controller, . 9, 761 36 5. Obligations of the present Adminis- tration, issued by the Controller, at 6 per cent., . . . 1,153 00 Total of bonds, treasury notes, &c. . . 95,334 S6| III. Sundry debts and loans due towns and individuals, . 49,443 02^ DEFEREED DEBT. IV. Bills and obligations of Cabral's Administration, unpaid because of doubtful origiu, the gross amount of which is, 221,845 77 ■ Note. — This debt is now in process of consolidation, and may be reduced to less than one-third of its nominal sum. V. Notes of National Bank, countersigned by the General Treasurer, . . ... 4,130 00 VI. Sundry loans bearing interest (back interest not included), 293,511 23 VII. Loan, without interest, subject to rebate for advances, . 20,223 20 VIII. Debt of 1859 :— Amount not known, because it is not known whether any was redeemed during the Spanish Administration. It cannot exceed $50,000 or $60,000, reckoned at . 60,000 00 Total debt, .... $1,334,487 69^ IX. Pending claims : — Of Jessurun & Son, claim before Senate, for loan of $100,000 in 1857, con- tested since, and now under considera- tion by the Chamber of Accounts, . $100,000 00 Of Jessurun & Son, for hire of schooner Amelia in 1857, less than . . 10,000 00 Of Rofman & Lowenthal, and others, . 14,000 00 Of General Baez, for spoliations, . 70,000 00 Of W.L.Cazeneau, for spoliations in 1863, 10,000 00 Total, ...... 204,000 00 X. Of J. C. Castillauos, francs 131,719 40. Of A. Postel, francs 5,007. Total of debt and claims in dollars, about . 1,665,831 69^ APPENDATORT. 489 " The following statement of the receipts for 1870 is here presented, in order to give, as far as possible, a complete view of the financial condition of the Dominican Republic : — RESULTS OF THE INCOME OP THE GOVERKMENT POK 1870. 1. Customs Receipts Tonnage, §27,206 60 Entrance fees, 1,469 95 Light-houses, 679 01 Anchorage, . 1,469 95 Pilotage, 1,429 27 Lighterage, . 216 00 Interpreter, 614 20J Signal-men, . 694 16* Quarantine, 430 16| Wharfage, . 6,793 38 Recargo, naunicipal, 1,105 36J Eecargo for steamer. 5,886 14 Water, 241 00 Import dues, 601,393 64i Export dues. 71,419 20i Coast fees, . 7,511 11 Deposits, . 132 43 Additional entrance fees, 14 00 fToo anK f;os "If 1 i,u,uvi/ ./U4 2. Direct and Indirect To xes. Registry and mortgages. $2,147 06i Licences, 12,721 86| Stamped paper. 18,574 50 Postage stamps. 1,083 69 Postal income. , 929 42J 35,466 55 3. Public Property. Sales and rents. 4. Sundries. 150 00 Sundries, . • 1 8,462 62i Total, 772,684 75i " The Commissioners believe that the statement of the public debt given above includes all the indebtedness or obligations for which the Dominican Republic is in any degree liable, as well that which it considers valid and binding as that which it regards as unfounded or overstated by the claimants. Throughout the inquiry it was urged upon the Dominican authorities that every claim known to exist, of whatever character, should be exhibited to the Commission, whose object was not only to determine the precise amount that was justly due and binding, but to get at the bottom and find the utmost limit of these obligations, setting forth everything for which the Govern- ment could, under any circumstances, be made liable. 490 APPENDATORT. " The above account contains much that the Dominican Govern- ment believes to be partly or wholly groundless, and some which, upon inspection, will appear questionable. There was brought to the notice of the Commission a claim of Messrs Jessurun & Son, of Curacoa, for upwards of $500,000 for money advanced to the Dominican Govern- ment, with interest, this being the same loan of $100,000, in 1857, mentioned in the preceding list of the pending claims by the same parties. On being asked if he had any statement or explanation to make regarding it, Mr Jessurun, Avho submitted the claim, declined to make any. This claim has been already for a considerable time before the Dominican Government, which refuses to consider more of it than the amount named in the foregoing list, and of that it is believed but a small portion will be allowed. " The debt was incurred for arms and provisions in time of war, when the property furnished was estimated at $100,000, on which compound interest, at 18 per cent., was to be allowed. It is claimed by the Dominican Government that, soon after the original contract was made, the Government turned over to these claimants a ship and cargo valued at $70,000 dollars, and that subsequently other payments were made, which, taken together, reduce the amount to a sum much below that named in the foregoing list. The claim is now pending before the Dominican Senate, and undetermined. Among the pend- ing claims is one of President Baez for destruction of property. " Jt is alleged by the claimant that the Spanish Government recog- nised this claim as valid, and ordered an examination to fix the amount, but the Commission cannot understand how this claim could be valid, against the Dominican Government. "Another claim for damages, amounting to $10,000, made by W. L. Cazeneau, seems to be of a similar nature." Passing over all of the statements, so freely made in the United States, of grants of land having been made to prominent officials, as utterly v?ithout foundation, I shall give a glance at some concessions of lands, rights, and privileges that are still in force, many others which had been previously granted being now entirely void; and it may be said that, if the terms of these concessions are complied with and fully carried out, St Domingo will receive a fair quid pro quo for that she bestows. I cannot refrain, however, from expressing a wish that our Government had seen fit to accept this island as a territory, and, taking charge of its development andinterests, APPENDATORY. 491 had retained in its own hands the control of roads, mines, and telegraph. In doing this it would more rapidly develop the resources of the island, would give confidence to the settler, and enahle at once this island to take a place in the moneyed and commercial world as a spot worthy of the attention of the largest capitalists. The United States Commission, as directed by the resolu- tions of Congress, made diligent inquiry to ascertain what proportion of the territory is covered by foreign claims or by grants and concessions, and generally what concessions and franchises have been granted, with the names of the respective grantees. The following list, condensed from an official statement furnished by the Dominican Secretary of State, with accompanying documents, and confirmed by the testimony, gives an answer to this inquiry : — A grant to J. W. Fabens, or a company organised for the purpose, dated July 3, 1868, of a portion of the public lands, on condition of making a geological survey. This is a contract authorising Fabens, by himself, or any company organised for the purpose, to make a general geolo- gical examination and survey of all the provinces and districts at the expense of said company, reports to be made every three months, as the survey progresses, to the Dominican Government, to enable it to offer for sale the mineral and agricultural lands of the localities examined, also an annual report of said company : to receive one-fifth of the public lands so surveyed, excepting coal lands, to be set apart as the quarterly reports are rendered. This survey is now in progress. The parties owning the franchise and paying the expense are chiefly New York capitalists. A grant to R M. Funkhauser, of New Jersey, October 7, 1868, for a line of mail steamers between New York, New Orleans, and the Dominican Republic, with a provision that 5 per cent, of the import and export dues on all merchandise carried by said line be allowed to the owners of steamers. This line is now run by Spofford Brothers of New York. 492 APPENDATORY. A grant to Ed. H. Hartmont, to take guano from the island of Alta Vela, in consideration of the loan of May 1869. As this loan was for a large amount, and has given rise to a great many statements from those opposed to the annexation scheme, it may be as well to state here, that it was originally to be negotiated for the sum of £420,000, and was to be brought out in Loudon ; and that, as security for its payment, certain liens and concessions were made of lands and privileges which have since been voided, except that of the Alta Vela privilege, as the Dominican authorities claim, for non-fulfilment of contract. Fifty thousand pounds were to be paid down on the con- clusion of the contract, but owing to some revolutionary troubles, only some £3000 were so paid at once, but subse- quently a further sum was paid, and the Dominican authori- ties acknowledge in their books an indebtedness to Hartmont & Co., of London, to the amount of £38,095, 4s. 9d., which they contend is the sum received, but for which there is a claim of £50,000 at 6 per cent., and which the Dominicans had under discussion ; this is the principal part in the above statement of interest-bearing loans. A grant to Fred. H. Fisher, of New York, September 9, 1869, for building a railroad from Santiago to Yuna river or Samana peninsula; to Felix Montecatini, August 3, 1867, renewed and extended April 5, 1870; to'Shumacker & Augenard, for railroad from Ozama river to San Christo- bal ; to Julian Grangerard, June 3, 1870, for building a rail- road from Azua to Los Caobas ; to Levi Guilamo, November 4, 1870, for constructing telegraph lines necessary in the republic ; to Carlos Baez, May 8, 1870, for rent of salt works at Bani ; to Telesforo Volto, for salt works at Beata Island ; to Industrial and Progressive Company, November 6, 1866, to work copper-mine at El Cobre, San Cristobal ; to W. L. Cazeneau, January 18, 1867, copper-mine at Monte Mateo, San Cristobal; to the same, July 12, 1869, copper-mine at Mano Matuey, and at Loma de la Boca APPENDATORY. 493 de Diamarte, San Cristobal (the last three being con- solidated under law of August 10, 1870) ; to Cambiaso & Co., October 24, 1867, copper-mine at Boca de Cuajo, Upper Haina, San Cristobal ; to St Domingo Company (Geological Survey Company), February 25, 1870, the miniDg circuit, Buenaventura, Upper Haina, San Cris- tobal, by virtue of geological survey, to be modified to conform to geological contract; to Felix Montecatini, March 19, 1867, mining district in Cuajo San Cristobal (void), renewed to Shumacher & Augnard, July 28, 1870; to St Domingo Company, September 16, 1870; mining district of Camu. The Dominican Government has made no grant or con- cession of land to any foreign Government or nation except the United States. To the grants to foreigners by the Government above enumerated must be added some by municipalities. Of these the only ones which seem to the Commission to re- quire notice here are those to certain parties, citizens of the United States, of lands and lots in the village of Santa Barbara, on the Bay of Samana, granted by the authorities of that town from its property as follows : — To J. P. O'SuUivan, December 1, 1868, of 930 feet fronting on the harbour and extending back several hundred feet, varying in depth in different parts, at $62 per annum rent for twenty-one years ; also, 84 feet and 90 feet to the same at $4 rent for each, December 11, 1869. These leases are made perpetual, provided there be no law to prevent the same. To J. W. Fabens, December 11, 1869, of 1683 feet, fronting on the harbour, in perpetuity at $112 per annum. These grants cover a large part of the unoccupied available front of the harbour. There was also a lease by the municipal government of the city of St Domingo of a wharf front of limited extent and importance to W. L. Cazeneau. And here my labours must come to an end; but before taking my leave of the reader, I will answer a question that 494 APPENDAT0R7. has often been addressed to me since my return, '' Is St Domingo such a desirable, beautiful land? " With a free government, and such an immigration as annexation to the United States would bring, I believe in a few years St Domingo would be the jewel state of our Union, not even excepting California. It has been the lot of the writer to traverse every section of his own land, and he knows no state or section more attractive ; for here the labourer will find ample occupation, while to the man of means or cultivation a field is open to amply reward his investments, or give him unlimited sources of pleasure, in establishing homes that shall rival the most beautiful of so-called sunny Italy itself. It is only since the writer's visit to Europe that he has fully comprehended the reason of the admiration of the early Europeans for the sunny lands of the tropics ; and he believes that were Santo Domingo settled and rendered habitable, that thousands of our citizens, who now spend their winters on some parts of the continent, looking for a climate they never find, would here discover a winter resi- dence unrivalled in any part of the world. But what stronger evidence can be quoted than the words of that venerable cosmopolite Dr Howe, who, on receiving a serenade from some Dominicans, said : — " People too often overlook or forget the good they have, and think only of their sufferings and wants. Since I have been here, people have been talking continually to me about the disadvantages under which they labour — of the convulsions, and civil wars, and oppressions, and all that. There is another side of the picture. I find myself in danger of having my reason carried away by my senses. All my senses are, as it were, subjugated by the surround- ings. I find the most beautiful island I have ever seen. The balmy atmosphere, the mild and even temperature — everything addresses itself to my sense de bien etre. My eyes are dazzled by the beauty of enchanting scenery. My sense of taste is gratified by the luscious and abundant fruits that are everywhere around us ; and now comes your music, and so charms away my sense of hearing, that I find all my senses enlisted and carried away in your favour ; and although APPENDATORY. 495 I may not say what I shall advise my countrymen to do on the subject of annexing the Dominican Eepublic, I feel strongly inclined to annex myself and my family to this beautiful island." HINTS TO EMIGEANTS OR TEAVELLERS. St Domingo may be easily visited by steamer from New York once a month. Any time after October it will be found a delight- ful trip, even if never leaving the steamer except while she is in various ports. From St Domingo, the trip may be extended to Puerto Rico, Curacoa, St Thomas, Jamaica, and either across or around Cuba to the United States. The money of most value in use is American gold and silver. The emigrant is advised to take all supplies with him in the shape of clothing, which need be only light woollen or linens, with woollen underclothing of a light kind. For those who intend prospecting the island, a good M'Clellan saddle-tree, with stirrups and stirrup leathers only, of russet leather, will be found better than anything on the island ; with this a felt saddle-cloth and small saddle-bags. High boots and shoes are best of russet leather, on account of the mud. A poncho or waterproof cloak will be useful. A small mess-chest with a stout tent-fly will make the traveller with his own supplies absolutely independent of hotels or hospi- tality. Extract of beef in small cans or jars will prove worth its weight in gold in a place where fresh meat is seldom to be had, and then only of pork, the free use of which is undoubtedly the cause of so much sickness in the tropics. A stout wood-knife is always, and a revolver sometimes useful ; and a shot-gun may be of service where there is no field for a rifle. A pocket Spanish Dictionary will sometimes get one out of a difficulty, and sometimes — into one. 496 APPENDATORY. m O m ->i o 1— 1 12; < 15 ^ « ^ < < pq o t3 Pd f2i P5 1— 1 S o n e 03 o :'5 >; e-'S ^, o- ■« a 3 o ?> :.SSo .3 " ~ w '^ rf a >-. (u O 3 .2 g S O i-, TJ So"g2 3 i3 -S J3 -, x3 P)J-( do o S o =^ " -a c S.Sgii S' .^S rt ^2 a „ -O ^ 3iri' 3 £ S o t- ea ,2 r ±3 n -13 *» --^ E Ka-Ss rt ea ^ '-^ a :=: 0) ga^fi-T '■ Qj ■<5 " rf d rt 5 1Sg,g,ff. _ +j «M t»,'^a " ^ «= 0.2 « 2 p.oja ^ 2 «i ci fco 3 a ag s a's ""d s m-" a p 'qg iS ?as IT^-U 3 = S 2 0) ' £maJ3 ; J ^ ' ^ ■" ^ ^ I l^sai E5 2 ■" = a OJ fl 'ci'S aS' P OJ "5 rf ^a |S--sa „ 2 .9 2 n3 oj cj S «" -- o .2 -a '« ■s'3 a g'S S .2 d ^ 2 V3 d "J OJ -S ^ 1 rS S -a 6g.gfea 2 §5 3 O a P. fi-g >.g p.'g Sd J2 5f= g j= M H .9 „- 3 ■ ,g-3 a p|g-- 3." ' o .2 oi2 cuS S - ^, " t- p -c a d ■ °* 2 t. I* ^ ftp liTs APPENDATORY. 497 GENERAL STATISTICS PERTAINING TO HAYTI. The following shows of what this island is capable, under proper administration. The Spanish portion, it has been shown, has never been sufficiently populated, or peacefully governed for a lengthened period, to give any important or reliable results ; but being the virgin part of the island, nearly three times the extent of Hayti, and of much more productive climate and soil generally, some idea can be formed by comparison of what it might be capable. General Statement of the Productions and Manufactures of the French Part of St Domingo in the year 1791. The island vras divided into fifty-one parishes, containing — Sugar plantations, Coffee do. Cotton do. Indigo do. Tanneries, Hum distilleries. 792 2810 705 3097 3 173 Coeoa plantations, ... 69 Limekilns, .... 313 Brick yards and potteries, . 61 Number of negro hands employed, . . 455,000 The products of the above, and its accompanying business, gave rise to a commerce which comprised more than one-third of the whole of that done by France. A comparative table shows there was — 1789. 1820. lbs. lbs. Indigo, . 758,628 Molasses, 25,749 Dyewoods, 6,768,634 1,919,748 Tobacco, 97,600 Mahogany, ft 129,500 Exported from Hayti in 1789-1820. 1789. 1820. lbs. lbs. Clayed sugar, 47, 516,531 2, 787 Moscobado,. 93,573,309 2,514,602 Coffee, . 76,835,219 35,137,759 Cotton, . 7,001,274 346,389 Cocoa, . . ... 556,424 In 1789, the money value of these exports amounted to over twenty-eight miUions of dollars ; and at a glance it will be seen, in comparison with the year 1820, what an immense falling off there ■was under the negro regime ; and the following tables will show what an immense difference exists in the Hayti of to-day and the St Domingo of the past, — the sugar and molasses product being utterly extinct. 2i 498 APPENDATORY. The whole Island, 1835-36-40. 1835. 1836. 1840. Ginger, Hides,* Wax, . Coffee, CottOD, Cocoa, Dyewoods,+ Tobacco, J Mahogany, lbs. ; lbs. lbs. 8,710 16,000 8,136 24,951 14,891 39,627 10,900 16,000 19,862 48,352,371 37,662,672 46,126,272 1,649,717 1,072,555 922,575 397,324 550,584 442,365 13,293,737 6,767,902 30,283,205 2,086,600 1,222,716 1,725,389 ft. ft. ft. 513,316 4,954,944 4,072,641 In 1857-8, the coffee crop exported amounted to over 33,285,000 lbs. This is exclusive of that used in the island, and that remaining unpicked. The importations of 1858 were equal to nearly $4,000,000 ; the exportations, $6,500,000. Of these — • IMPOETATIONS. EXPORTATIONS. Per cent. Per cent. From England, . 19.84 36.74 „ United States, . 55.76 21.75 „ France, 13.34 20.42 „ Other places. 11.06 12.09 Since that period the amounts produced have rather decreased than increased, and the Government may really be said to be bank- rupt, since it cannot redeem its paper currency. TKEATY concluded between the Plenipotentiaeies of their Most Christian and Most Catholic Majesties, concerning the BoujTDAKiES of the French and Spanish Possessions in the Island of St Domingo, June 3, 1777. Preamble. — In order to effect the said treaty, the two sovereigns have named the following plenipotentiaries, to wit — On the part of his Most Christian Majesty, his Excellency the Marquis of Ossun, grandee of Spain of the first order, field-marshal in the army of his Most Christian Majesty, knight of his orders, and his ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary at the court of Spain ; and, on * Principally from St Domingo. + Principally the product o£ the logwood, planted by the French for hedges, and now overgrown. X Principally from St Domingo. APPENDATORY. 499 the part of his Most Catholic Majesty, his Excellency Don Joseph Monino de Florida Blanca, knight of the order of Charles IIL, counsellor of state, and first secretary of state for foreign affairs. The said plenipotentiaries, after having conferred together, and made a mutual communication of their full powers, have agreed on the following articles : — Article I. — The boundaries between the two nations shall remain perpetually and invariably fixed at the mouth of the river D'Ajabon, or Eiver of the Massacre, on the northern side of the said island, and at the mouth of the river Pedernales, or Des Anses k Pitre, on the southern side, in the terms specified in the second article ; observing only here, that if, in future, any doubt should arise as to the identity of the rivers Pedernales and Anses a Pitre, it is already decided that it is the river commonly called by the Spaniards the river Pedernales, that the plenipotentiaries mean to point out as the boundary. Article IL — Seeing that the last survey, taken by the Viscount of Choiseul and Don Joachim Garcia, in quality of commissioners, conjointly with the respective engineers and inhabitants born in the country, has been executed in the most exact and minute manner, with a perfect knowledge of the arrangement made between the French and Spanish commandants on the 29th February 1776 ; and seeing that they had before their eyes the different tracts of territory, and were fully capable of clearing up all doubts and ambiguities that could arise from the wording of the said arrangement ; and further, seeing that landmarks have been planted by a common accord all along the frontier, and that more correct plans have been taken in which the said landmarks are distinctly represented ; for these reasons, the undersigned plenipotentiaries stipulate, that the said instrument, made and signed by the said commissaries on the 28th August 1776, and in which all the points, rivers, valleys, and mountains, through or over which the line of demarcation passes, are clearly and distinctly pointed out, shall be inserted in, and make part of the present article, as follows : — Description of the boundaries of the Island of St Domingo, as fixed at Attalaya the 29th of February 1776, by the definitive treaty, sub speraii, concluded between their Excellencies, Don Joseph Solano, knight of the order of St Jago, brigadier in the royal army of his Catholic Majesty, governor and captain-general of the Spanish part, president of the royal court, inspector of the regulars and militia, superintendent of the crusade, sub-delegate judge of the revenue of the posts, and plenipotentiary of his Catholic Majesty ; and Victor Therese Charpentier, Marquis of Ennery, count of the Holy Empire, field-marshal in the army of his Most Christian Majesty, great cross of the royal military order of St Louis, inspector- 500 AFPENDAT0R7. general of infantry, regulars, and militia of the French. Leeward Islands, and plenipotentiary of his Most Christian Majesty. The said plenipotentiaries having signed the said original treaty by seniority of age, delivered, in consequence, their instructions of the same date to the undersigned, Don Joachim Garcia, lieutenant- colonel in the army of his Catholic Majesty, commanding the infantry of the trained militia of the Spanish colony ; and Hyacinthe Louis Viscount de Choiseul, brigadier in the army of his Most Christian Majesty, named as commissaries to put in execution the articles of the said treaty, which fix invariably the boundaries of the possessions of the two crowns ; to erect pyramids, plant landmarks, where necessary, to preclude for ever hereafter all disputes that might disturb the harmony and good understanding between the two nations, and to make out, with the assistance of a sufficient number of engineers, the topographical survey, to which the undersigned refer for fuller explanation; observing that it has been impossible to sign it, as mentioned in the treaty, by the chief engineer, Mr Boisfor^t, employed by a superior order in the functions of his office. In execution of the said treaty, the line of demarcation of the boundaries begins on the northern coast at the mouth of the river D'Ajabon or Massacre, and ends on the southern coast at the mouth of the river of the Anses k Pitre or Pedernales, on the banks of which rivers pyramids have been erected, as marked in the plan ; the two first bearing No. 1, and the two last No. 221, with the inscriptions graved in stone, France, Espana. The plan clearly explains all the rest according to the real position ; observing well that when the right or left of the line is spoken of, it is meant the right or left according to the route followed by the commissaries ; and that, with respect to the rivers and streams, the right or left means the right or the left in going from the source towards the mouth. In going up the D'Ajabon or Massacre, its waters and fishery in common form the line of frontier as far as the pyramid No. 2, of the little island divided by the pjrramids, Nos. 3, 4, 5, and 6, conformably to the treaty, and as this line is not a tangent one, to the furthest elbow of the Ravine k Caiman, the marsh being impassable. The two pyramids. No. 7, mark that the waters united into one arm between the two little islands, the river becomes in common, and forms the line as below. The second island is divided by the pyramids from No. 8 to No. 1 7 inclusively, as represented on the plan, though, in conformity to the treaty, it should be divided by a right line from one extremity to the other, which forms a fork where the right arm of the river takes APPENDATORY. 501 the name of Don Sebastian, and the other the name of Left Arm of the Massacre. But the particular plan that served as the basis of this article, representing the island as an ellipsis, and divisible only by one right line, was so incorrect, that it became necessary to take a nev7 one, such as it novr appears in the general plan ; and the island has been divided by two lines which meet, in order to avoid doing prejudice, conformably to the fifth article of the treaty, to the essential interests of the vassals of his Catholic Majesty, whose land would have been bereft from them by a division of articles of the treaty, and the 2d, 6th, and 7th, of the instructions, except Mr Voisins, who is men- tioned as having voluntarily abandoned his position ; observing that everywhere a mandate was published declaring pain of death against any one who should pull up, carry away, or remove the landmarks or pyramids of the line, and that every one who should overshot it should be punished according to the exigency of the case. The commissaries being perfectly agreed on all contained in the present description, written in the Spanish and French languages, have hereunto set their names. Done at the Cape, 28th August 1776. Signed, Choiseul. Joachim Gakcia. [For further details see M. St Mery, " Spanish St Domingo,'' vol. i.] APPENDATORT. 509 !N0TES upon the Mines of Spanish St Domingo, translated from the Eeport of Don Juan y Nieto Balcaecel, Mineralogist to the King of Spain. Six leagues to the east of Cotuy exists a mine of gold, ■which was anciently worked, and produced annually more than a million of crowns ; but having fallen in, it has ever since remained in this state. I have been there to examine it, and have penetrated to the bottom, where it had fallen in. It could, at an expense of about a thousand crowns, be reworked, and the ore separated from the water, the ground being very high and dry. I went also to examine the neighbouring hills, which are of the same quality. At half a day's journey farther east there is a mine of blue copper very rich in metal, containing a great quantity of ore ; but the pro- prietor, who knew not its richness, having died, as also his slaves, the mine remained more than thirty years without being worked. I went there, and made an assay of the ore ; I found it gave a fifth of gold ; and I do not doubt that this metal could be found as pure as from its third bed. • It is to be desired that some capitalists would undertake the working of this mine, which, as I have said, has lain unworked for many years ; and though Cotuy has received the patent of your Majesty, dated February 3, 1790, it has not sought to realise its value. This is why I do it to-day, with its consent ; and, with the aid of God, I hope that in less than a year the royal fifths will pro- duce much. I hope also that, in consequence, laborious and enter- prising men will present themselves, who will bring into value the numerous mines of silver and other ores of which I possess a knowledge. From this mine I have been to examine that which is in the dis- trict of Jarabacoa, at one day's journey from the town of La Vega. It was previously worked, and contained a great quantity of silver ; but being fallen in, it has remained in this state. Beyond this are some ancient establishments made by the French, where can be found some very rich mines of silver, called Sami, which, according to ancient tradition, are of a greater richness than those of Potosi. When the French came to establish themselves in the vicinity, these mines were worked by Don Diego de Cacerees, who abandoned them. In the Black Mountain, " Sierra Prieta," which is very high, there are some mines of iron which I have discovered. In the village of Banica, at seventy leagues from St Domingo, 510 APPENDATORT. there exists a very abundant sulphur mine. I have extracted a small quantity from it, which I discovered to be of the best quality. In the valley of Bani, part of the south, there are many quarries of alabaster, and there exists a great number also in the town of Monte de Plata and the valley of Neyba. Not far from the mines of blue copper, which I have mentioned, there are two mines of silver. In the jurisdiction of Santiago, near to the Yaqui river, there exists a mine of silver, and a great quantity of copperas. In the valley of Neyba is a mine of rock-salt, of great renown, and which supplies Santiago and several other places. At twelve leagues from the same town, in the canton of Zazica, there has been discovered in a hill upon the river a mine of silver, that I have recognised but imperfectly, on account of the weather. In several other places besides those I have indicated, I have had information of many other mines of various metals, and particularly of gold, silver, lead, and tin. In the river Bao, beyond Santiago, in the south, in crossing an arm of this river, can be seen a, mountain, of which the ascent is almost impossible by reason of its precipitous height. This moun- tain is the asylum of many runaway negroes, who have taken refuge there, and who live in a state of absolute liberty. I learned from some of these negroes that this mountain contained much gold, of which they showed me some grains. In the confines of the jurisdiction of the town, or the valley of San Juan and of Guaba, they showed me some diamonds found in the cavities of the hills. Upon the banks of the river Bao, of which we have just spoken, not far from the habitation of Don Diego de Andujar, there is a mine of very rich gold, from which has also been taken some emeralds. I went to examine this mine, and it appeared that the aborigines obtained gold in nuggets from the banks of the river up to the top of the hill, upon which were the walls of a convent of Franciscans. I went to the mines of Gnaraguano, situated at ten leagues from Santiago, which had originally been of great renown, but being fallen in, they had ceased to be worked ; they are, however, very rich. I returned afterwards to Santiago, from whence I went to Cienaga, that is called very rich. In the possession of Don Diego de Andujar is a place named Las Mazelas, where a number of persons were lately occupied in getting out gold. At Jaina, near Buenaventura, at the habitation Gamboa, which belongs to Don Nicholas Guridi, and which was depopulated by Don Diego de Herredia, in a place named Guayabal, upon the route from APPENDAT0R7. 511 La Vega, at talf-way between that place and Santiago, is a mine of silver, very rich, which has been sunk and opened, and eight or ten slaves are now at work there. In crossing La Croix, in the same canton of Arriva, not far from San Miguel, there exists another mine of silver, also very rich, and which needs but some labourers to produce much. In crossing the river Jaina, by the road which conducts to San Cristobal, and to the habitation of Don Juan de Abedanos, to the right of the road, there exists a hill upon which grows not a single plant, but which contains a mine of quicksilver. I have hastily examined it. In going from St Domingo to the village of Higuey, near to the town of Seybo, twenty leagues to the east, there is found in a hUl a mine of tin, containing some portions which had been founded and worked by a goldsmith of St Domingo. Still farther on, within the limits of Higuey, at thirty leagues from St Domingo, there is another mine of silver that the Indians worked formerly, but which has since been neglected. According to what many persons who have entered this mine and extracted ore have told me, it is very rich, and has been but very little worked. Your Majesty, with few advances, would be able to draw from it great profit. In the mountains of Maniel, distant twelve long leagues from St Domingo, there is found much grain-gold. These mountains, which are called horrible, and which many persons have attempted to pene- trate, but have been unable to do so, are not inaccessible however. [He also refers to many other places as containing various minerals, and closes his report in saying] — Finally, I can compare this isle to that of Tarshish, from whence Solomon drew the gold that he employed in the ornamentation of his temple. PRINTED BV BALLANTYNE AND COMl'ANV EDINBURGH AND LONDON.