LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE ' OF HOME ECONOMICS C O R N E LL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 050 717 192 RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. B Cornell University B Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924050717192 PRACTICAL COOKERY A COMPILATION OF Principles of Cookery and Recipes AND THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE DEPARTMENT OF FOOD ECONOMICS AND NUTRITION KANSAS STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE FIFTH EDITION (Revised) Manhattan Department of Printing Kansas State Agricultural College 1921 3 Public- TioNG Office tinwoni ne Wnft,lE EcCfrJlVilCS COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY THE DEPARTMENT OF FOOD ECONOMICS AND NUTRITION KANSAS STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE STBUCTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF STOVES Of first importance in good cooking is efficient manage- ment of the application of heat. An understanding of the structure of the modern apparatus for this purpose is necessary to its skillful management. A Coal stove or range IB an iron box arranged to confine fire and the heat from it, to make it more effective and economi- cal for cooking. The fire box usually extends across one end of the range and is about twelve inches deep. The lining on the sides and ends, which is of fire brick or cast iron, is made to withstand the high temperature of direct contact with the fire. When hot water connections are desired, one side lining is replaced by a hollow Iron box called a water front or a water back, de- pending on position (see illustration). The bottom is a grate, perforated for circulation of air and movable to allow the easy removal of waste. In general, this consists of two tri- angular bars, perforated on one side with holes and on another with slots. These turn on a cog managed from the front of the range, so that as they turn an opening is pade between them through which the clinkers slip down into the ash pan. The round holes are turned uppermost to form the bottom of the fire box when wood is the fuel used. When coal is used, more draft Is necessary and the slots should form the bottom. The ash pan, which is below the fire box, is a removable pan which collects ashes and cinders from the fire box. The ovens occupy the remainder of the box part of the range and are heated by currents of hot air passing around and above them. The dampers on a range, control the amount of heat and its application. These are of three kinds: creative and check, to regulate draft, and directive, to direct the current of air. The creative dampers are found below the fire box and are primar- ily to feed the fire with air. When these are opened the air 6 PRACTICAL COOKERY enters easily, but when closed the air mnst be drawn in through closed spaces thut are not air tight. The check dam- pers are always above the fire box and when open allow cold air to enter and act as a check upon the fire, but closed they are negative in action. The directive damper is located at the place where the stove pipe connects with the stove and can be seen by removing the lid directly in front of the stove pipe. Open- Front view of a rai)ge showing the arrangement of its parts. The arrows indicate the direction of the air currents with the di- rective damper closed. At the left Is shown the method of heat- ing water ^ith a hot-water front. Ing this, damper allows the heated air to rise directly up the chimney, thus Increasing the rate of fuel combustion. When the directive damper is closed the heated air n»ust travel across STRUCTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF STOVES 7 the top of the stove, down the end, across the bottom of the oven, and then up the projection of the stove pipe which ex- tends down the back of the range and connects with the space below the oven. In this way the oven and the entire top of the range are heated and the rate of combustion is* slightly de- creased. This prevents waste of fuel by utilizing the heat as long as possible before it escapes: CHtcK tmm --> I DincrwE DnnPtK 7 T oorN 4^-J). WARMiriG OOEH ^ ^ End view of a range showing the projection of the pipe down the back of the range to connect with the bottom of the oven. The arro.vs show the direction of the air-currents with the directive damper closed. With the directive damper open the heated air would rise directly up the pipe. Combustion or burning is the combination of the fuel with oxygen, accompanied by light and heat. Each substance that burns has its definite kindling point or the temperature g PRACTICAL COOKERY to which it must be heated to maintain combustion. Those which have a low kindling point, as paper or soft wood sticks, are more easily lighted than those which have a high kindling point, as hard wood or coal. A free supply of air is necessary to furnish the oxygen for combustion. To build a fire, therefore, the grate must be free from ashes and clinkers. The fuel must be placed with that of the lowest kindling point at the bottom, and arranged so that the air has access to a large surface. The creative dampers and the directive damper must be open. As soon as the fire is well started, the directive damper shoi(ld be closed and remain so except when it is desired to Increase rapidly the rate of com- bustion. Too much heat around the oven should be remedied by decreasing the rate of combustion. This is accomplished by first closing the creative dampers, then opening the check damper in front of the fire box, and then the check damper in the pipe. As a last resort (which should not be necessary if fuel is added carefully, the oven door may be opened slightly. A gas stove or range is relatively simple in its manage- ment as compared to the coal or wood stove. It saves time and labor in starting a fire and can be extinguished as soon as the cooking is done, thus saving fuel as well as production of unnecessary heat in summer. With gas, the flame Is applied directly to the part to be heated, thus saving the management of directing currents of air. This direct application, however, does not give as uniform an oven heat as where there is only the heated air in contact. Gas is supplied to the range from a main pipe which divides to feed the several burners. The supply is controlled by gas cocks located near each burner. The burner contains numerous openings arranged to spread the flame over a larger surface and usually has a value which reg- ulates the supply of air. The flame should be blue. A yellow flame Indicates incomplete combustion and the unburned car- bon win be deposited on cooking utensils or on parts of the range. To remedy this, increase the supply of oxygen by open- ing the air valve on the burner. When the contents of kettle or saucepan begin to boll, turn the gas as low as possible with- THE PIRELESS COOKER 9 out checking the boiling. Light the oven burners before put- ting in the food — five minutes before broiling or toasting, ten to fifteen minutes before baking. To reduce the heat of the oven, turn down both burners as low as possible without danger of their being extinguished or turn out the back burner. All gas cocks should be kept closed when not in use. Gasoline and kerosene stoves are similar in principle and management to gas stoves. In these the liquid fuel is supplied, but is converted into gas by heated metal in the gasoline stove and by evaporation from a wick in the kerosene stove. The generation of this gas produces deposits of unburned carbon which interfere with efficient burning. Extreme care, there^ fore, is required to keep all parts brushed free from soot. Alcohol stoves, which may be either the kerosene or gaso- line type of a stove, are much cleaner and require less time and effort for efficiency. THE FIRELESS COOKER The fireless cooker is an apparatus for conserving the heat o£ cooking foods, thus economizing fuel. It also saves the time and energy of the housewife and unnecessary heat in the kitchen. It consists of one or more cooking compartments fitted with utensils and insulated to retain the heat of foods intro- duced, thus finishing their cooking in their own heat. The management of a fireless cooker is very simple, since foods do not spoil with over cooking with a constantly lowering temperature and, if food is underdone, it may be reheated and put back. There is little evaporation of water from food cooked in a fireless cooker, therefore less water should be used than with direct heat. In baking with hot disks it is necessary to avoid overheating the disks, as enough heat may be confined in a compartment to Burn the food. It facilitates the browning of very moist foods if the cooker is opened after Ave minutes' baking, to allow part of the steam to escape. 10 PRACTICAL COOKERY THE PRESSURE COOKER There are various types of pressure cookers on. the mar- ket. The cooker probably best adapted to family use has a capacity of about ten quarts. The steam pressure cooker is made of strong metal with a lid which can be securely fastened by clamps. It is equipped with a rack on which food ds placed for cooking and devices in the lid for regulating the steam pressure, namely the steam cock, the safety valve and the pressure gauge. Because the passing off of steam is hindered, the temperature within the cooker is raised and foods cooked in it will become tender more quickly. The pressure cooker has proven valuable in canning, Since the period of sterilization is shortened. It is also recommended for home cooking of dried fruits and vegetables, whole and cracked cereals, meats and highly fibrous vegetables. Good products are secured at a saving of time, labor and fuel. METHODS OF COOKERY Boiling is cooking in moist heat with a boiling liquid as the surrounding medium. A liquid is boiling when bubbles are breaking on the surface. In a slowly boiling liquid the bubbles are small; in a rapidly boiling liquid, large. There is no in- crease in temperature but more steam is formed in a rapidly boiling liquid. The temperature of boiling water at sea level is 212° F. or 100° C. This temperature is lessened by rise above sea level and increased, by solution of solids in the water. Simmering is cooking in moist heat with a simmering liquid as a surrounding medium. A liquid is simmering When bubbles are breaking just below the surface. The temperature of simmering water is 185° F. or 85° C. This temperature Is affected by the same conditions which change the boiling tem- perature. METHODS OF COOKING FOOD MATERIALS 11 Stewing is tiie name applied to simmering in a small amount of water. Steaming is cooking in moist heat with steam as the sur- rounding medium. The steam may be applied directly to the food, as in a steamer, or to the vessel, as in a double boiler. The temperature of steam is 212° F. or 100° C, but owing to rapid condensation the temperature at which the food is cooked is a little less. Steeping is a process o£ extracting flavors of foods by add- ing boiling water and allowing to stand. The temperature is always below the boiling point, decreasing gradually. Toasting is drying and browning the surface of food by direct contact with heat. The drying precedes the browning. Broiling Is cooking by direct contact with heat and is usually applied to meats. The surface is first seared and the cooking then continued at a lower temperature. Searing con- sists of rapidly exposing every part of the surface to heat in- tense enough to form a waterproof coating. Broiling is direct application of heat, while in pan-broiling the heat is applied by means of heated metal. Baking is cooking in the heat of an oven. The tempera- ture varies from 200°-600° F. or 93°-315° C, different oven heats being used for different foods. Roa,sting is the name applied to baking meats. Frying is cooking by immersion in smoking hot fat. The temperature varies from 375°-420° F. or 191°-215° C, differ- ent temperatures being used for different foods. Sauteing is cooking in a small quantity of hot fat. METHODS OF COMBINING FOOD MATERIALS stirring is a circular movement used to combine the wet and the dry ingredients of a recipe and to keep food from sticking and burning during cooking:. Beating is an over and over motion used to smooth the mixture and to introduce air. 12 PRACTICAL COOKERY Cutting is a horizontal motion with knives used for com- bining shortening and dry food without blending. Cutting and folding is a combination of two motions — cutting vertically through the mixture and turning over and over by sliding the spoon across the bottom of the mixing bowl each turn. MEASUREMENTS Level measurements make exact recipes possible because the quantity measured is uniform, the same table may be used for solids and liquids, and measures can be easily divided. A spoonful is a spoon level full. Use a straight-edged knife like the spatula to obtain a level surface. Half a spoon- ful is a spoonful divided lengthwise. One fourth of a spoonful is a half spoonful divided crosswise, the division line a little nearer the handle end of the bowl. A cupful is a cup level full. Pill the cup and level the top with a knife. Do not shake or press down dry material, as flour or sugar. Measure flour after sifting once. To measure a fat, as butter, by the cupful, pack solidly and level. To measure less than one half cupful, use a- tablespoon. Pack solidly into the spoon and level. A speck is what may be held on the tip of a vegetable knife. TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS AND ABBREVLITIONS 3 tsp. = 1 tbsp. c. = cupful 1 6 tbsp. = 1 c. tbsp. = tablespoonf ul 2 c. = 1 pt. tsp. = teaspoonf ul 2 pts. = 1 qt. spk. = speck 4qts. = lgal. lb. = pound 2gal. = lpk. qt. = quart *2 c.sugar = l lb. pt. = pint *4 c. flour = l lb. gal. = gallon 2 c.butter= 1 lb. pk.=:peck ♦Approximately. MEASUREMENTS 13 One medium sized lemon contains from four to four and one-half tablespoonfuls of juice. One medium sized orange contains from Ave to eight tablespoonfuls of juice. One egg contains about three tablespoonfuls unbeaten yolk and white. PRACTICAL COOKERY BEVERAGES A beverage is any drink. Water is the natural beverage and forms the- greater portion of all others. A beverage may be prepared by one of three methods By infusion, which is made by pouring boiling water over the material used, covering and allowing to stand in a warm place until the flavor is extracted. Freshly boiled water must be used in making an infusion, for long boiling renders the water flat and insipid. By decoction, which is made by placing the material in cold water and bringing .to the boiling point. Freshly boiled w.ater is then added. By a mixture, or combination of materials. Syrup may be used in sweetening cold beverages, because sugar Is not readily soluble in cold liquids. BOILED COFFEE WITH EGG NO. I 1 c. coffee, finely ground 8 c. cold water 1 eee or 3 eee shells* Mix coffee, egg and 2 cupfuls of cold water. Add remain- der of water and allow to come gradually to boiling point. Boil 3 minutes. Draw to back of range and keep hot 5 minutes. Add % cupful of cold water and let stand 1 minute to settle. Strain into heated coffee pot. Coffee may be served with sugar and cream or hot milk (French style). Cold milk will spoil any coffee. BOILED COFFEE IVITH EGG NO. II 5 c. coffee 4 i;. boiling water i egg I c. cold water Add the beaten egg to coffee and mix thoroughly with cold water. Pour this mixture into rapidly boiling water and stir carefully to prevent mixture from boiling over. Boil three min- utes, simmer four minutes and strain into heated coffee i)ot. 'The particles of coffee adhere to the coagulated albumen of the egg, or that portion which adheres to the shell, and tlie' decoction is cleared. BEVERAGES 15 FILTEREni COFFEE 1 f|t. boiling, water i u. finely ground cofCee Put coffee in strainer of pot. Gradually pour in water a half cupful at a time, keeping the pot covered between times. The coffee may be poured through a second time if desired. AFTER DINNER COFFEE Coffee made double strength and served clear. TEA 4 tsp. tea 4 c. water Scald the utensil, put in the tea leaves and pour over them fresh water Just brought to the boiling point. Cover and steep 3 to 5 minutes in a warm place. Do not allow to boil. Strain and serve at once. This may be served with cream and sugar or with lemon. The strength may be regulated to suit each in- dividual by combining with freshly boiled water at the table. CHOCOLATE 11 sq. Chocolate 4J c. scalded milk 4 tbsp. sugar Spk. salt IS c. boiling water Melt chocolate over hot water. Add sugar and salt. Add water gradually, stirring constantly. Boil until smooth and glossy. Pour into milk, reheat and beat with Dover beater just before serving. COCOA 4 tbsp. cocoa or grated 1 c. water chocolate Spk. salt 2 tbsp. sugar J tsp. vanilla 3 c. milk Mix cocoa, sugar and salt. Add boiling water and boil until smooth and glossy. Add milk and heat to scalding. 3eat with Dover beater and add vanilla just before serving. Gar- nish with whipped cream or marshmallows. BREIAKFAST COCOA WITH EGG 11 tsp. cocoa % c. milk 11 tsp. sugar Spk. salt 2 tbsp. boiling water 1 egg Mix cocoa, sugar and salt, and add water gradually while stirring constantly. Bring to the boiling point and let boil 1 le PRACTICAL COOKERY minute. Turn into scalded milk and beat 1 minute. Break egg, beat until liglit and frothy. Add cocoa gradually, beating constantly. KOUMISS J cake compressed yeast 1 qt. milk 1 tbsp. water i tbsp. sugar Make a thin syrup of sugar and water, cooking 1 minute. Soak yeast cake in 2 tablespoonfuls of milk TC-SO" F. or 21°- »2° G. Heat remainder of the milk to 90° P. or 32° C. Add other ingredients and mix w«M. Nearly fill sterile jars and seal. Place in upright position for 12 hours at 70° P. or 21° C. After 24 hours, serve cold.' EGGNOG 1 egg Spk. salt 3 t-bsp. sugar Flavoring % u. milk Beat egg thoroughly, add sugar, saK and flavoring. Add milk gradually. Strain and serve. FRUIT NECTAR 2 tbsp. lemon juice 2 tbsp. water 2 tbsp. orange juice i c. cold water 3 tbsp. shredded pineapple i c. shaved Ice } u, sugar Cook sugar and water to the soft-ball stage. Add fruit juices and cold water. Strain, add shaved ice, and serve. FOUNDATION PUNCH 8 oranges 2 c. sugar 4 lemons Water to make 1 gal. Squeeze the juice from the fruit and strain. Make the sugar into a syrup. Combine sugar and fruit juice, and add water. Pour a small quantity into the punch bowl, add a block of ice, and pour remainder of punch over the ice. Varia- tions may be made by adding other fruit juices to it. The juices should be sweetened to taste. GRAPE PUNCIH 1 part foundation punch 1 part grape juice STRAWBERRY PUNCH 1 part foundation punch 3 parts strawberry julea BBVERAGBS 17 RASPBBRRY PUNCH 1 part foundation punch 3 parts raspberry juice MINT PUNCH 1 gal. foundation punch 1 doz. fresh mint sprigs Pour hot syrup over chopped mint, let stand 5 minutes, and str'ain before adding to the fruit juice. A few sprigs of tresb mint may be added for garnish. TEA PUNCH 1 part foundation punch 3 parts Russian tea CRANBERRY PUNCH 3 parts foundation punch 1 part cranberrjr juice PINEAPPLE PUNCH 3 parts foundation punch 1 part pineapple juice CHERRY PUNCH 3 parts foundation punch 1 part cherry juice grape: nectar 1 c. grape juice 1 lemon 1 c. water 4 tijsp. sugar 1 orange Combine sugar, orange, lemon and water as for founda- tion punch. Add grape juice and chill. This may be served as a first course or as grape punch. RUSSIAN TEA 1 pt. lemonade 1 pt. tea Combine, Ice and serve. LEMONADE i u. sugar 1 qt. water 3 lemons Make a syrup by boiling the sugar, V4, cupful of water and a slice of lemon. Cool. Add lemon juice and remainder of water. Ice and serve, garnished with a thin slice of lemon, a candled cherry or a sprig of mint. IRISH MOSS LEMONADE } c. Irish moss 2 c. holing water 4 tbsp. lemon juice Sugar to taste Pick over and wash moas and soak % hour. Pour ojt IS PRACTICAL COOKERY ■waXer, add boiling water, cook below boiling point until syrupy. Strain and add lemon juice and sugar. Serve hot. APPLK WATER 1 large sour apple Lemon juice i c, boiling water Sugar Wipe and core apple. Fill the cavity with sugar. Bake in small dish with enough water to prevent burning. When soft, mash, add boiling water and let stand 20 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth and add lemon juice to taste. CINNAMON WATER 1 oz. stick cinnamon 1 pt. boiling water Boil together 15 minutes. Strain.' Serve hot or cold. TOAST W^ATER 2 slices of stale bread 1 c. boiling water Cut stale bread in 14-inch slices and remove crusts. Put in a pan and bake in slow oven until thoroughly dried and well browned. Break in small pieces. Add water, cover and let stand one hour. Squeeze through cheesecloth. Season with salt and serve hot or cold. RICE WATER 2 tbsp. rice Spk. salt 3 c. cold water Wash rice. Soak 30 minutes in cold water, heat gradually to boiling point, let boil until rice is soft. Strain, reheat, sea- son with salt, -and if too thick, dilute with boiling water. HOT SPICED MILK J c. milk Raisina (if allowed) Spices as desired Sugar to taste Scald the milk in a double boiler; add small amount of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves or mace; sugar to taste. Strain carefully before serving. ALBUMEN WATER 1 egg white I c. Ice water Cut white of egg to set free albumen, that it may easily dissolve as water is added gradually. Strain and serve. A few grains of salt may be added it desired. BEVERAGES 19 JUNKET OR RENNET WHEY i o. milk J junket tablet or 1 tsp. cold water 1 tsp. liquid rennet Heat milk until lukewarm; add junket tablet or rennet dissolved in cold water. Let stand in warm place until set — about 15-20 minutes; then stir until thoroughly separated. Strain through a double thickness of cheesecloth. BOTTLED BEEF JUICE Cut round steak Into small particles or put through a meat grinder. Place in a double boiler, add small portion of salt and allow to stand % hour, then gradually heat, keeping be- low boiling point to avoid coagulation of protein. Squeeze out juice and serve either hot or cold. One fourth pound of beet will make about 2 tablespoonfuls of juice. BEEF JUICE Panbroil pieces of thick round steak. Cut in pieces of oon- Tcnlent size and gash on botl;i sides. Put into meat press or lemon squeezer and express the juice. Turn juice into cup set in saucepan of hot water. Season with salt and serve at once. Care must be taken that the cup does not become sufficiently hot to coagulate the albuminous juices. 20 PRACTICAL, COOKERY FEurr A fruit is a pulpy substance enclosing the seeds of plants. Most ripe fruits are edible in the rav state but may be cooked to change their flavor; to soften the frame work; or to add to their keeping quality. Before cooking, some preparation is necessary. After the fruit is thoroughly washed the. skin may or may not be re- moved, as desired. Some fruits can be peeled or the skin may be removed without any of the pulp; other fruits must be pared, or the skin and a portion of the pulp removed with a knife. A silver knife should be used to prevent discoloration. Many fruits, after paring, discolor when exposed to the air; this can be prevented by dropping the pieces into cold water. Gentle boiling, in which enough water is added to the fruit to prevent its burning, is the most common method of cooking fruit. If, in cooking, the desire is to soften the fruit, still keeping its original shape, simmering or steaming are used, or boiling in a syrup. Baking is also used. By this method the fruit is kept whole and cooked in a small quantity of syrup. Besides the softening, the browning of the surface adds to the flavor. Prying and sautfiing are other methods of cooking fruits. Dried fruits may be cooked in similar ways but they should always be soaked for at least twelve hours to let them absorb water to replace that which has been previously extracted. They must be washed thoroughly before soaking, for they should be cooked in the water in which they were soaked. Sugar causes the fruit to burn more easily, so it is usually not added until just before removing from the fire. BREAKFAST ORAIVGX: Wipe orange and cut in halves crosswise. Cut around the pulp in each section with a small sharp-pointed knife. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Place on a small fruit plate or in a glass fruit bowl. If the latter is used, shaved ice may be placed around the orange. FRUIT 81 ORANGES SECTIONS Peel an orange. Remove the white portion. With a sharp-pointed knife separate the sections. Serve on a fruit plate with the sections arranged around powdered sugar. CURLED ORANGB Wipe orange. With a sharp knife cut the skin in length- wise sections. Begin at the blossom end and cut to within an inch of stem end. Loosen skin and turn in end of each sec- tion. Remove tough, white portion from pulp. Serve on fruit t>late. PICNIC orange: Wipe orange. Equal distance from^tem and blossom ends cut a band ^ inch wide. Remove all skin and tough, white portion except band. Cut the band between two sections and separate the sections, leaving them attached to the band. Ar- range on fruit plate. GRAPK FRUIT Wipe grape fruit and cut in halves crosswise. With a grape fruit knife or sharp-pointed knife remove the seeds. Cut pulp from skin, starting in each section at white core and cut- ting to the outer edge, across the end and back to the center. With scissors snip each piece of white section close to center white core, then cut out core close to bottom. Fill hole with sugar shortly before serving. FRUIT SALPICON Combinations of the following fruits may be used: Equal amounts of oranges, pineapple, grape fruit, white cherries, banana and white grape. Dice, chill and serve in stemmed sherbet glasses, or orange baskets or shells placed on a fruit iriate. APPLE SAUCE , . 1 apple Thin shaving: of lemon Z tbsp. sugar rind or few drops o( i c. water lemon juice Wipe, pare, quarter and core apple. Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water with lemon. Add apple and enough water to barely cover apple. Watch carefully during cooking 22 PRACTICAL, COOKERY and remove as soon as tender. Cook syrup longer, if necessary to thicken it, and pour over the apples. A few whole cloves may be used instead of lemon, if preferred. APPLE BALLS 1 largre apple 2 tbsp. sugar i t. water Pew drops lemon juice Wipe and pare apple. With a vegetable cutter, cut out as many balls as possible. Cook until tender in a syrup made from the sugar, water and lemon juice; drain and dip in melted currant jelly. Cook the trimmings of the apples in a small quantity of water; pass through the sieve and simmer in the syrup until quite thick. Arrange the marmalade thus made about the balls and sprinkle with chopped nuts. SPICBD APPLES i tsp. lemon juice 1 tbsp. sugar 1 apple i c. water 2 tbsp. red-hot candies Wash, pare and core the apple. Place in small kettle with sugar and water. When nearly tender, add candies and con- tinue boiling until apple is of desired color. More red-hots may be used. Apples cooked in this way may have the cavity filled with chopped pickle and be served as a relish. B.\KBD APPLES Wipe, pare and core sour apples. Put in baking dish, fin cavities with sugar and allow 6 drops of lemon juice to each apt^e. Cover bottom of dish with water. Bake in a thoderate oven until soft, basting every 8 minutes with syrup in the dish. Serve hot or cold, with or without sugar and cream. PEERLESS BAKED APPLES 1 apple 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. Jelly 1 tsp. butter Wash and pare apple. Remove core, being careful not to cut through the blossom end. Place in a baking dish. Fill the cavity with jelly, sugar and butter. Cover bottom of dish with water. Bake in moderate oven, basting frequently with liquid in dish. FRUIT 23 SAUTBD A.PPLE3S 6 apples Salt to taste 2 tbsp. butter Wash apples, cut in '^-Inch slices. Melt butter in frying pan and, when hot, put in apples. Cook until tender. Add salt. CRANBEIRRY sauce: 1 c. cranberries J o. sugar hi c. boiling water Pick over and wash cranberries. Put into a saucepan and add water. Cover and boil 10 minutes or until skins burst. Add sugar and boil up once. Care must be taken that they do not boil over Skim and cool BAKED RHUBARB J 0. rhubarb 3 tbsp. sugar Wash rhubarb, cut into %-inch pieces without removing outer skin. Put into baking dish and sprinkle with sugar. Cover closely and bake in slow oven until tender. BAKBD BANANAS Remove from skin. Place in buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter, and if desired a few drops of lemon juice. Cover bottom of dish with water and bake until slightly brown. FRIED BANANAS Remove from skin. Cut in halves crosswise. Roll in egg, then crumbs, egg, and crumbs. Pry to golden brown. STEWED PRUNES 8 prunes I In. stick cinnamon 1 whole clove i tbsp.. sugar Put prunes to soak in cold water. Let stand 30 minntes and then wash thoroughly Cover with cold water and soak 24 hours. Put on to cook in water in .which they were soaked. Add spices; cover and simmer until tender. Add sugar and cook 5 minutes. Take out prunes and boil syrup to thicken, if necessary A little lemon juice may be used for flavoring. 24 PRACTICAL, COOKERY STEWED APRICOTS 8 large apricots 2 tbsp. sugar Put dried apricots to soak in cold water. L^t stand 3« minutes and then wash thoroughly. Cover with cold water and soak 12 hours. Put on to cook In water in which they were soaked. Cover and cook until tender. Add sugar and cook S minutes. Take out fruit, if necessary to hoil syrup to thicken STEWESD FIGS 8 figs 1 tbsp. sugar Wash figs thoroughly. Cover with cold water and soak 2-4 hours. Cook in water in which they were soaked, until tender. Add sugar and cook until clear. CRANBBRRIBS AND RAISINS 1 c. cranberries } c. sugar i c. raisins J c. water Cook as for cranberry sauce. SUGAR COOKERY 25 SUGAR COOKERY Success in candy making is dependent upon an understand- ing of the effects of certain conditions on tlie boiling of sugar and tlie effect of certain ingredients on boiling sugar. The primary object to be attained ia to prevent crystallization of the syrup. This may be accomplished by using glucose instead of cane or beet sugar (Glucose or corn syrup is a simple sugar syrup which does not readily crystallize.); or by the ad- dition of a little acid or cream of tartar to the cane or beet sugar. Sugar when boiled in the presence of acid is changed into simple sugars. The presence of a single crystal of sugar or agitation of the boiling syrup will oftentimes start a chain of crystals which will granulate the whole mass. GENERAL, SUGGESTIONS The following suggestions are in accord with these facts and will prove helpful if followed: Use the best quality of sugar. Use a thicli saucepan in which to boil sugar. Never stir the syrup after the sugar is dissolved; the only object in stirring is to prevent the sugar from settling and burning when first placed over the fire. Never allow crystals to remain on the side of the pan; keep them wiped off with a clean, wet cloth. Never shake or move the kettle while the syrup is boil- ing. Never when pouring out the syrup allow any of the scrapings to fall into it. Add a little acid or cream of tartar to prevent granulation. If candy grains, add water to soften it and reboil. TO TEST THE STAGES OP SUGAR COOKERY These tests are made by dropping a small portion of the •ymp into cold water. Each stage or test corresponds to a definite temperature as indicated by a thermometer. Soft ball. — When mixture win make up into a soft ball, 836" F. or 113° C. Hard ball. — When mixture forms a firm or rather hard ball, 254° F or 123° C. 26 PRACTICAL COOKERY Soft crack. — When mixture becomes crisp and too hard to form a ball, 260° F. or 127° C. Hard crack. — When mixture will crack or break when crushed between fingers, 290° F. or 143° C. Caramel. — A fifth stage in sugar cookery is known as the caramel stage. This may be reached by boiling the syrup be- yond the hard-crack stage or by melting dry sugar over direct heat. The test for this stage is the appearance of golden brown color. 348° F or 176° C. CA.NDT 27 CANDY SYRUP 1 c. and 1 tbsp. sugar l c. water Boil rapidly 5 minutes. Cool and bottle for use. Makes 1 cup syrup. CARAItHSL SYRUP 1 c. sugar, caramelized 1 c. boiling water Carefully add water to sugar by pouring water slowly into hot sugar, and boil to a thick syrup. PEANUT nRITTI.B 2 c. sugar 1 u. alielled peanuts or 1 pt. unshelled peanuts Shell and chop peanuts. Put sugar in a smooth frying pan and stir constantly with the bottom of the bowl of a spoon until melted to a golden brown syrup. Remove immediately from the fire, stir in the nuts and pour onto the bottom of a tin; press into shape with buttered knives and mark into squares. HOARHOUND CANDY 2 tsp. pressed hoarhound 1 ^. sugar 1 c. boiling water Pour water on hoarhound. Let st^nd 1 minute. Strain through fine cloth. Add sugar to strained hoarhound water. Boil to the caramel stage. Pour out and cut in squares before it hardens. MOLASSES TAFFY 3 c. sugar h tsp cream of tartar 1 u. molasses 5 c. butter* 1 c. hot water } tsp. soda 1 tbsp. vinegar i tsp. vanilla Mix sugar, molasses, water and vinegar When mixture bolls, add cream of tartar. When nearly done, add butter and soda. Cook till brittle when tested in cold water Pour into •The term butter Is used in recipes throughout this book la the sense of butter or butter substitute 28 PRACTICAt, COOKERY oiled pans. When cold enough to handle, add flavoring and pull. VINKGAR TAFPy 2 c. sugar 2 tbsp. butter i c. vinegar Put butter in kettle. When melted, add sugar and vinegar Stir until sugar is dissolved. Boil to the soft-crack or hard- crack stage when tested in cold water.* Turn onto an oiled platter to cool. When cool enough to handle, pull until por- ous and white. Cut in small pieces with scissors. Place on oiled plates to cool. PVFFBD RICB BAI'IiS } c. molasses 1 c. puffed rice 2 tbsp sugar Boil sugar and molasses to hard ball. Mix with puffed rice which has been crisped in oven. Form in balls or squares PEANUT CANDT 3} c. sugar 3 c. shelled peanuts 1% c. water 4 tbsp. butter ) c corn syrup 2 tsp. vanilla 4 tsp. soda Mix sugar, corn syrup and water and stir until it boils. Wash down sides of kettle, cover and cook 3 minutes. Remove cover, add butter and cook to the caramel stage. Add pea- nuts, vanilla and soda. Take from the fire, pour onto oiled platter and. when cool, cut in bars or pour onto back of oiled tin and shape in bars with knife. BUTTER SCOTCH 1 v;. sugar 2 tbsp. boiling water } c. molasses i c. butter 1 tbsp. vinegar Boil ingredients together, without stirring, to the bard- crack stage. Turn into a buttered tin. When slightly cod. imark into squares. A small piece of vanilla bean cooked in t^ mixture will improve it. 'Chewing taffy should be cooked to the 8oft-crax;k stage «a« hard taffy to the hard-crack Btage. CANDY 29 PBNNVCCI 1 c. brown Bugrar i c. walnut meats J 0. water 10 drops vanilla 2 tbsp. butter Boil sugar, water and butter together, without stirring, to the soft-ball stage. Remove from fire when cool; add vanilla and beat until creamy Add walnut meats and pour quickly into oiled tin. CHOCOLATK FUDGES 1 li. sugar 1 tbsp. butter 1 c. milk 1 tsp. vanilla h sq. chocolate Mix sugar, milk and chocolate and stir until chocolate is melted. Boil to the soft-ball stage. Add butter, remove from fire. When cool, add vanilla, beat until thick and creamy and pour into oiled tins. Cut in squares while soft. BIARSHlHAL,L,OW FTIDGB 2 u. sug'ar 2 sq. chocolate 1 0. cream or milk 1 tbsp. butter Cook sugar, milk and chocolate to soft-ball stage. Just before taking from fire, add butter. Add % pound marsh- mallows cut in small pieces; stir until it is thick and creamy Pour into oiled tins and cut in cubes. CHOCOLATE CARAMELS 1 i;. brown sugar 5 c. butter 2 sq. chocolate J o. corn syrup J c. milk or cream J tsp. vanilla Cook all the ingredients together, except vanilla, having heat moderate after boiling point is reached and stirring oc- casionally to prevent scorching. Boil to the soft-crack stage Remove from fire, add vanilla, pour into oiled tin and, when eool. cut in% inch squares. Wrap in paraffin paper B^NDANT 1 c. sugar i tsp. cream of tartar i c water Mix ingredients, stir and heat gradually to boiling point. Boil, .without stirring, to the soft-ball stage. Wash oft sugar from sides of pan with fork wrapped In a cloth and dipped in 30 PRACTICAL COOKERY hot water. Pour onto plate wet with cold water. Let cool, then beat with wooden spoon until white and creamy. Knead with hands until perfectly smooth. Place in a bowl, cover with a cloth which has been wrung out of water, but do not let cloth touch the fondant. Cover with heavy paper. Fondant may be kept indefinitely in this way if the cloth covering is occasional- ly dampened. UNCOOKED F03VDANT 1 eee white J tsp. flavoring i tbsp. cold water 1 lb. powdered sugar Put egg, water and flavoring into a bowl. Beat with Dover beater. Add sugar gradually until stiff enough to knead. Shape for dipping. dUICK KOWDANT 2h c. sugar 4 tsp. glycerin 1} c. water 1 egg white 4 or 5 drops acetic acid Dissolve sugar in water. Bring to a boil, add acetic acid and glycerm. Cover tightly and cook 10 minutes. Uncover and cook to the soft-ball stage. Pour onto wet platter and cool. Beat into this the well-beaten egg white and continue beating until stiff. Mold and dip at once. CREAIM CHERRIBS, TSVTS AND FIGS Cut the top of a candied cherry in points with scissors. Make a ball of fondant and press into the center of the cherry. Roll in fine granulated sugar. These are also called "Cherry Roses." For cream nuts, make a ball of fondant and press it between 2 halves of nuts. This fondant may be flavored with chocolate or coffee, or colored delicately. For cream figs, fill the center of a pulled fig solidly with fondant, cut in thin slices and roll in sugar. STUFFED DATES Cut open the dates on one side, and remove the seeds. Fill with uncooked or cooked fondant made into a ball and then pressed into oval shape. Bits of blanched almonds, English walnuts or candied cherries may be used Instead of fondant, or CANDY 31 chopped and mixed with fondant. Press the dates in shape, and roll in powdered or granulated sugar. COCOANUT BAR Beat into melted fondant an equal quantity of shredded cocoanut, pour into an oiled tin and, when" cool, cut in bars. The mixture may also be dropped from a spoon onto oiled paper. CREAH MINTS Melt fondant in a double boiler, flavor with a few drops of oil of peppermint, wintergreen, clove, cinnamon oi- orange and color delicately if desired. Drop from the tip of a spoon onto oiled paper. Mints may be dipped in cfhocplate when cold. CREAH liOAF* Soften a cup of fondant over hot water. To one third add a few drops of vanilla, color another third a delicate pink, and to the rest add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted chocolate. Pour this in layers into a shallow box lined with oiled paper and allow it to stand until firm but not hard. Then break away the sides of the box, cut the loaf into slices or small pieces and roll each piece in fine granulated sugar. Many different combinatfons may be made. The choco- late may be omitted and chopped citron, pineapple, nuts, figs or cherries may be substituted. Two layers instead of three may be made, or the fondant left from the dipping of bon- bons may have nuts or fruits stirred into it and be poured into tins. BONBONS Centers. — Prepare centers for the bonbons by adding to the fondant chopped nuts, candied fruit, or any coloring or flavoring desired, and forming this into balls. Nuts^ candied cherries or white grapes may also be used as centers. To dip bonbons, in fondant melt the fondant In a double boiler. Color and flavor as desired. {In coloring fondant, dip a toothpick in the coloring, take up a small quantity, and dip the toothpick in the fondant. If care is not taken, the color is apt to be too intense.) Add a few drops of hot water 32 PRACTICAL COOKBRT it necessary. For dipping, use a fork or a confectioner's bon- bon dipper. Drop the centers in the fondant one at a time, stir until covered, remove from the fondant, place on oiled paper and bring the end of the dipper over the top of the bon- bon, thus leaving a tail-piece which shows that the bonbons have«been hand-dipped. A second dipping may be necessary to give the proper shape and size. Stir the fondant between dipping to prevent a crust from forming. Decorate at once such bonbons as are to be ornamented with pieces of fruits or nuts. To dip In chocolate melt the chocolate in a double boiler, beat until sufSciently thick to coat the centers. Avoid over- cooking the chocolate. Dip the centers and place on oiled paper.* DIPPED TOKAY GRAPES Remove selected grapes from stem. Wash, dry thorough- ly. Dip in melted fondant, following directions for dipping bonbons. ORANGE AND LEMON CREAMS Use plain fondant of any kind. Add candied orange peel ground in fine pieces and orange flavoring. Mold in shape de- sired. For lemon creams use lemon flavoring and a small amount of grated rind. These flavorings are best worked into the fondant by degrees. CHOCOLATE DIPPED NUTS Melt chocolate over hot water, dip halves of walnuts as bonbon centers are dipped. Cool on oiled paper. Halves of pecans or whole almonds may be dipped. GLAZED NVTS AND FRUIT i c. sugar Spk. cream of tartar or i c. water 1 tbsp. vinegar Prepare the materials and the utensils, oiling a platter and a fork. Put the ingredients into a saucepan, stir, place over the fire and heat to the boiling point. Boil, without 'Dipping chocolate ia preferable, but ordinary chocolate may- be used. CANDY 33 stirring, to hard-crack stage or until faintly colored. Wash off sugar which adheres to sides of saucepan as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire and place in pan of cold water to stop the boiling instantly. Remove from the cold ■water and place in a pan of hot water during dipping. Take the nuts or the frjiit separately on a fork or hatpin, dip into the syrup to cover, remove from the syrup," drain and place on an oiled platter or paper. Reheat when the syrup becomes too thick. Work carefully but quickly. Avoid discoloring the syrup by too much reheating. Remove the glazed nuts or fruit from the platter as soon as hard and keep in a cool place. Nuts, seeded raisins, candied cherries, pineapple, figs, cut In small pieces, and dates are most suitable for glazing. White grapes and orange sections are delicious but must be used im- mediately. MARSHMALLOWS 2 c. sugar 2 tbsp. gelatin i c. hot water J c. cold water 1 tap. vanilla Soak gelatin in cold, water. Cook sugar and hot water nearly to the soft-ball stage. Add gelatin, pour into large bowl and beat until stiff. Add vanilla, beat again and pour Into a tin. Let stand until stiff. Cut in strips, pull out of tin, cut in squares and roll in equal parts cornstarch and pow- dered sugar. nougat 5 e. granulated sugar 1 c. boiling water 1 c. glucose or corn syrup 3 egg whites Boil sugar, glucose and water to the soft-ball stage. Take out a cupful and pour onto beaten whites of eggs. Beat until cold. Boil remainder to the hard-crack stage. Pour over first portion. Beat thoroughly. ' As it begins to get stiff, put in chopped candied cherries and nuts. Pour into a box and cut ie slices. PARISIAN SWEEITS 1 lb. flgs 1 lb. English walnuts 1 lb. dates Powdered sugar Put in figs, dates and nuts alternately through a food chop- per. Force the mixture through the chopper until it is fine -3 34 PRACTICAL COOKERY and uniform. Knead on a board, dusted with powdered sugar. Roll %-incti thick with a rolling pin and cut in fancy shapes. DIVINITY 4 c. sugar 3 egg whites 1 c. water 2 c. English walnuts 1 c. maple syrup 1 tsp. vanilla 1 tsp. lemon juice Boil sugar, water and maple syrup to the soft-ball stage. Have egg whites beaten stiff and gradually pour over them the syrup, beating all the while. When it begins to cool and stiffen, add the chopped nuts and flavoring. Pour into but- tered tins. Cool and slice. Candied fruits and almonds may be used. CANDIED orange: PEBL 4 thin skinned oranges i c. water 1 v;. sugar Remove peel in quarters. Cover with cold water, bring to boiling point and cook until tender. Drain, cut yellow portion in thin strips. Dissolve sugar in water, add orange strips to syrup and cook until syrup is absorbed. Drain and coat with fine granulated sugar. CRYSTAI. CUPS 2 c. sugar 1 t. water i tsp. cream of tartar Mix ingredients and boil without stirring until syrup be- gins to discolor slightly. Care should be taken not to let sugar adhere to sides of kettle. Remove saucepan from fire and place in larger pan of cold water to stop boiling instantly; then remove from cold water and place in saucepan of hot water. Brush sides and bottom of timbale-iron with olive oil, lower iron into hot syrup to % its depth, remove from syrup, drain and invert; then keep in motion until cool enough for cup to be removed from iron. Cool iron again before dipping in syrup. It is well to have two irons if many cups are to be made. When sugar is no longer useful for cups it may be stretched and used for candy baskets or handles of baskets where macaroon drops are held together by cooked- syrup in shape of a basket. CANDY 85 SPUN SUGAR 2 lbs. sugar 2 c. boiling water } tap. cream of tartai; Boil ingredients without stirring until syrup begins to dis- color. Wash off sugar which adheres to sides of saucepan, as in making fondant. Remove saucepan from fire and place in a larger pan of cold water to stop boiling instantly. Remove from cold water and place in a saucepan of hot water. Place two broomsticks over back of chairs and spread paper on the floor under them. When syrup is slightly cooled, put dipper in syrup, remove from syrup and shake quickly back and forth over broomsticks. Carefully take off spun sugar as soon as formed and shape in nests or pile lightly on a cold dish. Syrup may be colored if desired. Spun sugar Is served around bricks or molds of frozen creams and ices. Dippers for spinning sugar can be made by tying several forks together. 36 PRACTICAL. COOKERY THE EFFECT OF HEAT ON STAKCH Since many of our foods owe their fuel value chiefly to their starch content, an understanding of the effect of heat up- on starch is necessary in cooking. The correct application of moist or dry heat to foods which contain starch results In a more or less complete breaking up of the starch grains and changing of the starch to simpler substances, so that the food is more digestible and more palatable. The starch grains vary in size and shape according to their source. Each plant has grains of characteristic size and shape but the general structure is the same in all. Starch grains are composed of at least two different materials arranged in con- centric layers, thin layers of cellulose-like material alternat- ing with layers of starch. Moist heat causes starch grains to swell, bursting the cellulose walls and allowing the starch to escape into the surrounding liquid. Starch is insoluble in cold water but forms a gelatinous paste in hot water, thus thickening the liquid in which it is heated. After prolonged boiling, the liquid may become thin again, due to the conversion of the starch to simpler substances. Dry heat applied to starch grains produces the same chem- ical change much more quickly. At a temperature of 127° F. or 53° C, starch begins to form a soluble substance called dex- trin, which has a brownish color and a slightly sweet taste. This process takes place when flour is browned for sauces, in the formation of the crust on bread and in browning of toast. In thickening a liquid with starch, it is necessary to separate the starch grains before heating, by mixing the starch with cold liquid, fat or sugar. If this is not done they will ad- here together when heated, enclosing uncooked starch and forming lumps. To avoid this mix the starch with one of the following before heating: a double amount of liquid, a double amount of sugar, or an equal amount of melted fat. The liquid must be well stirred while it is thickening in order to prevent the formation of lumps. SAUCES 87 SAUCES To make good sauces is to be master of an art. It require? great care and attention to the smallest details. A sauce Is intenfled as an accompaniment to the meat, flsh, vegetable or dessert with which it is served and should be in perfect har- mony with it. It "should never be so prominent in flavoring as to overbalance the flavor of the food. Certain sauces are associated with icertain particular foods, as mint sauce with lamb, caper sauce with mutton, cranberry sauce with turkey, or Hollandaise sauce with fish. Color adds to the attractive- ness of a sauce and may be obtained by the addition of browned • flour, caramel, or fruit or vegetable juices. METHODS OF MIXING I. Hygienic. — Mix the thickening material with cold liquid, stir into the heated liquid. Stir until the starch is cooked — 3-5 minutes over direct he^t, 15-20 minutes in a double boiler 'when milk, is used. Add butter just before serving. n. French. — Heat the fat and stir into it the thickening material. Add the cold liquid and cook 3-5 minutes over direct heat, stirring constantly. III. For Sweet Sauces. — Mix thickening material with sugar, add boiling water, return to fire and stir constantly un- til mixture is thick and clear. Add flavoring and serve. GENERAL, DIRECTIONS Cream Soups. — Use equal portions of sauce and stock with pulp of cooked food. The latter is obtained by pressing the food through a seive. Combine and reheat. Creamed Dishes. — Use slightly less #auce than food to be creamed. Pour the sauce over the food and reheat, if neces- sary, in a double boiler. Scalloped Dishes. — Use equal portions of sauce and food. Place alternate layers in an oiled baking dish. Cover with buttered crumbs. Reheat and brown in the oven. SoufiIe.s. — Use equal portions of sauce and food with S eggs to each cupful of sauce. Add the well beaten egg yolks to the sauce. Mix with the food. Fold in the Stiffly beaten egg 338 PRACTICAL COOKERY CO m o D •«! CO >> a o a CO i s (0 S3 SoJJ 0)9 > Offlo! t4 U t4 On U 1 a si 1 a 1 3 1 1 1 s 1 3 1 ss 11 2 SMS S 9 M 1 U 0} "3 0) "3 CO d 2 ! 4^ 1 d S 13 V a c4^ = 0} □ a S et n A a> III II a 5 »4 1 & 3 3 O 1 - 1 "1 S .atlcp^o illiilil =1 2 5 a e 6 5 s 6 1 ^ ;> 6 Su> cSooooo 1 1 i o £ 1 00 3 SAUCES 39 whites and bake In a buttered baking dish' set in a pan of hot water. Bake in a moderate oven 30-40 minutes. Croquettes. — Use 1/3-3/4 as much sauce as tood, making the mixture as soft as can be handled. Mix and cool. Shape, veil in crumbs, egg and crumbs. Fry and drain. Beat an egg slightly for rolling and add equal amount of w ater or '" BROWN SAUCE Make a sauce for creamed dishes by the second or French method, browning the flour in the fat. This may be flavored with tomato juice or mushrooms added. PAN GRAVY Make a brown sauce with fat from pan in which meat is cooked. Flavor with tomato juice. GIBLBT GRAVY Make a brown sauce with giblet stock and drippings from roasting pan. Chop the giblets and add to sauce. BECHAMEI. sauce; Make a white saucei using equal parts of chicken stock and milk or cr&am. PARSLBY BUTTBR fi tbsp. butter 6 tap. chopped parsley 6 tsp. lemon juice S tsp. salt Cream the butter, add parsley and salt. Add lemon juice slowly. Place on food and allow heat of food to melt the butter. draiVn butter sauce Use water, or meat or fish broth Instead of milk in a white sauce for creamed dishes. Add another equal portion of but- ter, cut into bits, just before serving. EGG SAUCE Add to a white sauce for creamed dishes, or to drawn but- ter sauce, 1 or 2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced or chopped. HOI^I^ANDAISE SAUCE i c. butter Spk. cayenne 1 eggr yolk } c. boiling water i tsp. salt 1 tbsp. lemon Juice 40 PRACTICAL, COOKERT Cream *the butter, add the yolk gradually, then salt, cay- enne and water. Cook in double boiler, stirring constantly until sauce thickens, then add lemon juice. MoussELiNK sauce: 8 ees yolks i tbsp. lemon juice i c. cream . Salt and pepper to tast« I c. butter 1 tbsp. sugar Beat egg yolks until thick and lemon colored. Add cream and butter. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly untS mixture thickens. Add lemon Juice, sugar, salt and pepper. HARD SAVCK t tbsp. butter Flavoring li c. powdered sugar 1 tbsp. thin cream Cream butter and add sugai^ gradually, then add flavoring and cream. If fruit juice is used for flavoring, the proportioa Of sugar to butter should be doubled. Chopped nuts or shred- 4ed cocoanut may be added. VANIJLLA SAUCE 1 c. boiling water 5 c. sugar 1 tbsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. vanilla 2 tbsp. butter Combine ingredients as for a white sapce. LEMON SAUCE I 1| c. hot water 3 c. sugar IJ tbsp. cornstarch IJ tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. lemon juice Grated rind o£ } lemon Combine ingredients as for a white sauce. LEMON SAUCE II 1 c. sugar Grated rind of } lemon Juice of 1 lemon Mix together and let stand 2 or 3 hours, then add 1 «up- ful of 20 per cent cream. Beat well and serve. STERLING SAUCE i c. butter 4 tbsp. cream 1 c. brown sugar Flavoring Cream the butter and sugar. Add cream gradually. Add flavoring to taste. Heat slightly and beat well before serving. SAUCES 4 1 FOAMY EGG SAirCE 1 egg J c. whipped cream or J c. powdered sugar 1| tbsp. milk I tsp. vanilla Beat egg white until stiff. Beat in gtadually ttie pow- dered sugar. When smooth and light add vanilla and ' well beaten yolk. Then stir in cream or milk. Serve at once. CARAMEL. SAUCE Make as vanilla sauce. Flavor with caramel syrnp. CHOCOLATE SAUCE H sq. chocolate Spk. cream of tartar 1 c. sugar i tsp. vanilla I c. water Boil sugar, water and cream of tartar until of the consist- ency of thin syrup, pour over the melted chocolate. Cool (lightly and add vanilla. WHIPPED CREAM 1 c. cream Flavoring to taste 1 tbsp. sugar Chill cream in a deep bowl. Chill and whip until frothy. Add sugar and flavoring and beat again until stiff. Cream to whip should be at least 24 hours old; 30-40 per eent cream whips best; 20 per cent cream must be packed in i«e. and at times ice and salt, to whip. PltACTICAL COOKERY VEGETABLES Methods of cookery applied to vegetables are similar to those used for other foods but must be adapted to the compo- sition and condition of the particular specimen. It is impos- sible to give exact method as regards preparation or time for the cooking of any variety of vegetable, since the method is dependent upon the size, age and freshness of the vegetables. The primary objects to be attained In the cookery of vege- tables are to soften the cellulose or fiber and to cook the starch. Soft water is preferable for cooking vegetables, be- cause the "salts of hard water, if present in any quantity, tend to harden the cellulose. The addition of table salt in large quantities will have the same effect. All vegetables should be crisp and firm when put on to cook. If Vk'ilted they may be freshened by soaking in cold water or by wrapping in a damp cloth and placing in the re- frigerator for an hour or more. During the cooking of vege- tables gases are formed which, if retained, give a strong flavor and odor. If vegetables are cooked uncovered these gases will pass off with the steam. The natural color of the vegetable is also retained if cooked in an uncovered utensil. Strongly flavored vegetables are made more palatable by cooking in a large quantity of water or by changing the water during the cooking process. Young vegetables should be cooked in a small quantity of water, or by steaming or baking, so that all the flavor will be retained. Dried vegetables must be soaked to absorb an amount of water equal to that lost in the drying ])rocess. White sauce is a useful addition to vegetables, since it in- creases their nutritive value, modifies strong flavors and fur- nishes variety to the diet. Inferior specimens of vegetables may be made into palatable soups. Water in which vegetables have been boiled may also be saved and used in making soups. Juices and left-over vegetables may be used in making scal- Ir.; — ' dishes, stews, sauces, etc. VEGETABLES 43 QBNERAli DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING STARCHY VEGETABLES Wash, pare, peel or scrape the vegetables. Cut into pieces ot convenient size. Cover with boiling salted water, using 1 teaspoonful of salt to 1 pint ot water. Cook until tender. 44 PRACTICAL COOKERT LEGUMES AND NUTS Legumes contain a large per cent of vegetable protein in. addition to the nutrients of other vegetables. The object to be obtained in the process of cookery is, therefore, to soften the cellulose and to cook the starch thoroughly without coagu- lating the protein to an objectionable degree. This is accom- plished by long, slow cooking with moist heat. If legumes are gathered while unripe, to be cooked in the pods, the seeds are small and the pod tender because the cellulose has not yet be- come tough. Green legumes are prepared like other green vegetables. Because of the large per cent of fat in nuts, they should be ground and mixed with other food materials. They also con- tain protein and must be cooked at a moderate temperature. Prepared in this way they are a valuable addition to the dietary. POTATO BALI.9 Wash, pare and cut balls from potatoes with a vegetable cutter. Cook in boiling salted water. Serve with parsley butter. RICKD POTATOES Force boiled potatoes through a ricer into a hot serving dish. Season with salt, pepper and butter. HASHED POTATOES 3 c. hot boiled potatoes Salt 2 tbsp. butter Pepper 4 tbsp. hot cream or milk Mash potatoes and add butter, ereara and salt. Beat with fork until light and creamy. Pile lightly in hot dish and serve Immediately. DUCUESS POTATOES 3 eg-g yolks 3 tbsp. butter 3 egg whites 6 tbsp. milk or cream 3 c. hot mashed potatoes } tsp. pepper 1} tsp. salt VEGETABLES 45 Mix thoroughly all the ingredients except the egg whites. Beat the egg whites and fold in carefully. Put the mixture into a buttered baking dish set in a pan of hot water. Bake in a moderate oven until firm. Serve at once. POTATO ROSBS Force Duchess potato mixture through a pastry tube, forming fancy shapes. Set in a moderate oven and brown slightly. POTATO CAIvE)S 2 c. hot mashed potatoes 1 tsp. finely chopped par- 2 tbsp. butter sley i tsp. salt Bplt. cayenne 1 egg yolk Mix ingredients and beat thoroughly. Shape into balls, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs again. Fry and drain. FRENCH FRIED POTATOES. Wash and pare small potatoes, cut in eighths lengthwise and soak 1 hour in ice water. Take from water, dry between towels and fry. Drain and sprinkle with salt. BAKED POTATOES Scrub potatoes thoroughly. Place in hot oven. Bake 45 to 60 minutes. When done, roll in clean napkin and twist until skin is broken. Serve immediately. STUFFED POTATOES Bake potatoes. Upon removing from oven cut in halves crosswise or cut slice from one end. Scoop out inside. Mash and season with salt, peper, butter and hot milk. Pile lightly into shells, set in baking tin and return to oven. Bake until delicately browned. Small bits of pimento, stuffed olive or grated cheese may be added to the potatoes or sprinkled ever the top. POTATO CHIPS Wash and pare potatoes. Slice thinly into a bowl of ice water. Let stand at least 30 minutes. Drain and dry between towels. Fry a small quantity at a time until light brown. Drain and sprinkle with salt. A fi PRACTICAL COOKERY POTATO QUIRbS Wash and pare long potatoes. Shape with potato quirler. Soak in ice water % hour Drain, dry between towels, try. drain and sprinkle with salt. May be used as a garnish for meats or fish. FRANCOMA POTATOES Wash and pare potatoes. Place in pan in which meat is roasting. Bake until soft, basting with fat in pan. Time re- quired for baking, about 4 minutes. SMOTHERED POTATOES 1 pot.Tto. pared 1 tap. parsley, chopped 6 tbsp. milk Flour 2 tbsp. butter Pepper Salt Buttered crumbs Onion juice Cut potato in very thin slices. Put layer of potato in but- tered baking dish. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, onion juice, parsley, butter, flour. Add milk and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven until potato is tender. GL.\ZED SWEET POTATOES 1 sweet potato 2 tbsp. sugar 1 tbsp. butter Wash and pare the sweet potato. Cut in halves lengthwise and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and dry. Melt butter, add sugar. Place potatoes in baking tin. Spread with butter and sugar mixture, add a little water and brown in a moderate oven. BAKED SWEET POT.4.TOES Prepare and bake as Irish potatoes. B.VKED SaHASH Wash and cut in 1-inch slices. Remove seeds and stringy portion. Sprinkle 'with sugar and bake on baking sheet. When tender, scrape from shell, force through ricer^ season with salt, butter and pepper; or serve in the shell, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. STEA.MED Sai'ASH Wash and cut in 1-inch slices. Steam until tender, scrape VEGETABLES 4 7 Irom the shell, force through ricer, season with salt, pepper and butter. This may also be served in the shell, seasoned ■with salt, pepper and butter. MASHBD TURNIPS Wash, pare and boil turnips. Force through ricer, sea- son with salt, pepper and butter and serve. STUFFED TURNIPS Wash and pare medium-sized turnips. Boil whole. Cut a thin slice off the top of turnip. Then make a hole in turnip below slice. Fill opening with stuflBng prepared like stuflSng for chicken. This may be mixed with nuts or chopped meats. Cover opening with slice removed from top and bake, basting with melted butter. PREPARATION OF CAULIFLOWER FOR BOILING Place cauliflower, flowerlets down, in cold salted water for 20 minutes. Remove from cold water and break into flower- lets. SAUTED PARSNIPS Wash and scrape parsnips. Cut into quarters lengthwise and remove woody center. Boil and,saut6. SPLIT PEAS OR LENTILS } c. split peas or lentils li in. cube salt pork i onion 1 tbsp. salt Pick over and wash peas or lentils. Soak over night in cold water. Drain, add cold -water to cover, sliced pork, onion and salt, and cook slowly until tender. Drain and serve. BOILED BEETS Cut tops from beets, leaving 1% inch of stem. Wash, boll and drain. Remove skin. These may be served buttered or with a sauce. BEETS IN VINEGAR SAUCE Make a vinegar sauce with half vinegar and half water. Use cornstarch for thickening To each cupful of sauce add 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Reheat boiled beets in sauce. PICKLED BEETS 12 medium-sized beets % u. sugar 3 c. vinegar 4 ;. white sauce for 4 hard-cooked eg^s creamed dishes 4 slices of toast Chop egg whites fine and add to sauce. Pour white sauce over toast cut in halves lengthwise or in triangles. Over this apriokle the yolk which has been forced through a potato ricer or strainer Garnish with parsley or toast points. SCALLOPED BOGS ' IJ c. white sauce for 1 c. buttered crumbs creamed dishes i tsp. salt 6 cold, hard-cooked eggs Put alternate layers of sliced eggs and white sauce Into an oiled baking dish. Sprinkle with salt. Cover with crumbs and bake until sauce bubbles. EGG SOUFFLE Follow directions given under sauces. Equal portion of other food is omitted. PLAIN OMELET 1 egg Spk. salt 1 tbsp. water Spk. pepper gg PRACTICAL COOKERY Steparate egg, beat yolk slightly, add salt, pepper and water. Beat white until stiff and dry and fold into it the yolk mixture. Butter a frying pan, heat, turn into It the mixture, spread evenly over pan and cook slowly. When well puCed and delicately browned underneath put on top grate of oven until the omelet is firm. Run a knife or spatula under to loos'ea omelet, fold and turn onto hot platter. Before folding, 1 tablespoonful of cooked, chopped meat, cheese or vegetable may bq spread over half of omelet. Vegetables or meat stock or milk may be used in place of water. TO FOLD AND TURN AN OMESLET Hold an omelet pan by handle with the left hand. With a spatnla make two 1-inch incisions opposite each other and at right angles to the handle. Place spatula under the part of ontelet nearest the handle, tip pan to nearly vertical position, fold omelet upon itself and it will fall to platter without breaking. BREAD OMEJLET WITH JELLY 1 egg 2 tbsp. bread crumbs 2 tbsp. milk Spk. pepper } tsp. salt Jelly Soak crumbs in milk until milk is completely absorbed. Add beaten yolk and seasoning. Fold into white, stifSy beaten, and cook as a plain omelet. Spread with jelly before folding. Sprinkle with sugar. orange: omeslet Make a plain omelet, using orange juice in place of water and omitting pepper. Serve garnished with sections of orange ana sprinkle with powdered sugar. oyste:r ohe:le:t i c. white sauce for i c. oysters creamed dishes 1 egg Make a plain omelet. Parboil oysters in white sauce, sear son to taste and pour around omelet. EGGS 69 DBVILEiD EGGS 4 cold, Jiafd-cooked eeea i tsp. salt 4 tbsp. salad dressing Remove shell, cut lengthwise or crosswise through eggs and remove yolks. Mix yolks, salad dressing and salt to a smooth paste. Fill egg whites with mixture but do not pack tightly. EGG IN A NEST Break egg and separate yolk from white. Beat white until stiff, then add a few grains of salt. Pile on a circular piece of toasted bread, first dipped in boiling salted water. Make de- pression in center of white and drop in yolk. Bake in a moder- ate oven until delicately browned. EGG CROaUETTES 8 hard-cooked eg&s 11 c. white sauce for croquettes Cut eggs in small pieces. Mix with sauce; chill. Mould into desired shape. Roll in crumbs, egg and crumbs. Fry in deep fat: drain. Serve with creamed peas. 70 PRACTICAL COOKERY MEAT A knowledge o£ the structure of meat is essential In order to understand the effect of heat upon it. Musclar tissue Is made up of bundles of fibers which can be divided and subdi- vided into minute single fibers or tubes. These fibers are held together by a network of connective tissue. Fat is also stored between them in varying quantities. The tenderness or tough- ness of meat depends upon the character of the walls of the muscle fibers, as well as the connective tissue. Tbe muscle SPbers are filled with a liquid called muscle Juice, in which are dissolved the protein, mineral salts, and extractives of meat. Heat, which causes the connective tissue lo swell, tends to force the juices out of the muscle fibers. To prevent this, the protein on the surface of the meat should be coagulated by either plunging in boiling water or searing in a hot oven or in hot fat. When the coating of coagulated pro- tein has been formed, the heat must be reduced and the cook- ing continued at a moderate temperature. Dry heat hardens the connective tissue; therefore tough meats should be cooked in moist heat to soften and dissolve the connective tissue. Because salt extracts the juices from the meat, it should not be added until after the surface is coagulated. OVEN ROAST Choose a compact roasting piece. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Place on the rack in a roasting pan and put in a hot oven with roaster uncovered. When well seared, in about 15 minutes, draw from the oven, sprinkle with salt and pep- per, and put on cover. Finish cooking at lowered temperature, allowing 15 minutes for rare, 20 minutes for medium, and 2 5 minutes for well done, to each pound. A dripping pan may be used in place of a roaster, using another pan of similar size to cover. A rack may be made of a broiler, toaster, cake-rack or tin pot lid. A little water should be put in the roasting pan and, if the meat is very lean, additional fat or drippings may be used. MEAT 7 1 POT ROAST OF BCEF Choose a compact piece of beef. Wipe with a damp cloth. Sear all surfaces in a hot, oiled trying pan. Plunge into boil- ing water, using a Itettle to fit the roast to avoid excess of water. After 30 minutes cooking, add 1 teaspoonful of salt and speck of pepper for each pound of meat, draw to back of range and cook slowly until done, allowing 20 minutes for rare, 25 minutes for medium, and 30 minutes for well done, to each pound. During the latter part of the cooking, have the kettle uncovered until most of the water is evaporated. PANBROILBD STEiAK Wipe and trim steak. Rub a bit of fat over the bottom of a smoking hot frying pan. Place the steak in the pan and sear both sides. Reduce the heat and turn occasionally, about every 2 minutes, until cooked, allowing 8 minutes for rare, 10 minutes for medium, and 12 minutes for well done, for a steak 1 inch thick. Avoid puncturing the steak with a fork while cooking. Just before removing from the fire, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place on a hot platter and dot with bits of butter, or serve with parsley butter, or garnish with water cress and slices of lemon. PLANKED STBAK Wipe, remove superfluous fat and panbroil 7 minutes a porterhouse steak cut 1 % inches thick. Oil a plank and ar- range a border of Duchess potatoes close to edge, using a pas- try bag and tube. Remove steak to plank, put into hot oven and bake until potatoes are browned. Spread steak with par- sley butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve on plank. BEEF BALIiS Wipe a small piece of steak cut from top of round. Lay on board and scrape with the grain of the meat, first on one side and then on the other, to remove soft part of meat, leaving the connective tissue. Form into small balls, handling as lightly as possible. Heat a frying pan, sprinkle with salt, shake con- stantly while adding balls and continue shaking until the sur- 72 PRACTICAL COOKERY face of balls Is seared. Arrange on buttered toast and gar- nish with parsley. HAMBURG STEAK 1 lb. beef 1 tsp. salt 1 egg 1 tsp. onion Juice Grind meat -with food cutter. Beat egg slightly. Add egg. salt and onion juice to beef. Mix thoroughly and shape, into small, flat cakes. Panbroil. BAKED HAMBURG 1 lb. beef Pepper 1 egg 1 tsp. onion juice or 1 tsp. salt chopped onion' Grind meat with food cutter. Beat egg slightly. Mix Ingredients thoroughly and shape into a compact loaf. Bake as an oven roast. FLANK STE:.\K EN CASSEROLE: 1 flank steak 1 tbsp. lemon juice 1 c. buttered crumbs 11 tsp. salt 1 c. tomatoes Spk. pepper 1 tsp. onion juice Spk. nutmeg 1 pt. hot water or stock Spk. cloves Score steak closely on both sides. Rub into it the season- ings. Mix bread crumbs and tomatoes and spread over one side of steak. Roll and skewer. Sear. Place in casserole. Pour in the water or stock. Cover closely and bake in a slow oven for 2 hours. Lift steak from casserole. Thicken stock and pour over the steak. BR01VN MEAT STEi'W M^ITH DUMPLINGS 2| lbs. beef shoulder } onion, chopped 2 c. diced potatoes 2 tbsp. flour % c. turnips cut in J-ln. Salt cubes Pepper % c. carrots cut in }-in. cubes Wipe the meat, remove from the bone and fat, cut in 1 '/4- iiich cubes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Brown meat in fat rendered from trimmings. Put into MEAT 73 a kettle and rinse the frying pan with boiling water, that none of the juices may be lost. Add to the meat the remaininp; fat and the bone cut in pieces. Cover with boiling wa'er and boil 5 minutes. Lower temperature and cook until meat is tender. Add the carrots, the turnips, the onions, tbe pepper and salt during the last hour of cooking and the potatoes 1 5 minutes before serving. Remove the bone and the large pieces of fat. Thicken with the flour. Serve with dumpling.s Such a stew may also be made from mutton, veal, pork or chicken, using other vegetables as desired. MEAT PIE Cut remnants of cold beef in 1-inch cubes. Cover witli boiling water, add % onion and cook slowly 1 hour. Remove onion, thicken gravy with flour to thickness of sauce for creamed dishes, season with salt and pepper. Add potatoes cut in %-inch slices, which have been parboiled 8 minutes Put into an oiled pudding dish, cover with baking powdci biscuit mixture or plain paste. Bake in hot oven. BOUCHEES OF MEAT 2 u. cold mashed potatoes J c. milk or cream 1 egg yolk Creamed meat Beat egg yolk slightly. Scald milk or cream. Pour over beaten egg, stirring constantly. Add to potato, beating Uioroughly. Line an oiled casserole with the potato mixture. Fill with creamed meat. Heat and brown slightly in the oven Individual casseroles may be used if desired JELLIED MEAT LOAF 2 c. cooked meat 2 cloves 1 c. stock i tsp. celery sail 1 tbsp. gelatin Spk. salt 1 tbsp. catsup Spk. pepper 1 bay leaf Add seasonings to stock and bring to boiling point. Swell gelatin in cold water and dissolve in hot stock. Strain, add meat and mold. Serve garnished with hard-cooked egg. 74 practical cookery casserole: of ricg and mesat 1 c. cooked rice i c. crumbs 2 c. cooked meat 1 tsp. lemon juica Spk. cayenne 1 egg i tsp. celery salt 1 tsp. salt Few drops onion Juice i tsp. pepper 1 tsp. chopped green pep- 4 c. tomato juice pers Chop the meat fine and add the other ingredients, except the rice, mixing well. Line a casserole with rice 1 inch thick and fill the center with the meat mixture. Cover well with the rice. Bake 20 minutes. Serve hot with tomato sauce. This may be steamed in a mold 30-45 minutes-and turned onto a platter to serve. braise:u bekf 3 lbs. beef J c. onions 2 thin slices fat salt pork i c. celery 3 c. boiling' water Pepper } c, carrots Salt i c. turnips Try out the pork and remove the scraps. Wipe the meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and brown in the pork fat. Place in casserole and cover with vegetables and the boiling v,rater. Cover closely and bake 4 hours in very slow oven. iMIIVCEU MEAT ON TOAST 1 c. diced cooked meat 1 c. brown sauce flavored 6 slices of toast with tomato Reheat meat in brown sauce and pour over toast MEAT SOUFFLE Follow directions given under sauces. For food use any cooked ground meat. 5IEAT CROQ.UETTES Follow directions given under sauces. For food use any cooked ground meat. RRESLAU OF MEAT t pt. chopped beet, veal or i u. stock chicken j c. fresh bread crumbe 2 tbsp. butter 1 tbap. chopped parsley MEAT 75 i pt. milk or cream 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 3 eee yolks Tomato sauce 1 tsp. salt Beat the yolks, mix the ingredients together. Press the mixture into buttered molds. Place in pan of hot water and bake in hot oven 30 minutes. When done, unmold onto platter, pour tomato sauce around the molds and garnish with toast points. BOILED tongue: 1 tongue 1 tbsp. vinegar 4 cloves 1 tbsp. salt 4 peppercorns 5 tsp. pepper Wipe the tongue and place in boiling water to which the seasoning has been added. Boil for 10 minutes, then draw to a cooler part of the range and simmer until tender (3-4 hours). Partially cool in the liquid, take the tongue from the water and remove the skin and the roots. If pickled tongue is used and is very salt, it should be soaked in cold water several hours, or over night, before cooking. ASPIC je:i,l,y 3 c. white or brown stock Lemon Juice 1 tbsp. gelatin Salt i c. cold .water Pepper Bay leaf Celery salt Worcestershire sauce (If the stock does not form a soft jelly itself when cold, use 1% tablespoonfuls of gelatin.) Soak gelatin in cold water and dissolve over boiling water. Put seasonings to taste into stock and heat together. Clarify, stir in dissolved gelatin and strain. Mold and decorate with meat or vegetables as desired. TONGUE IN ASPIC 1 u. diced tongue 1 hard-cooked egg and pl- IJ c liquid aspic Jelly mento or parsley for decoration Prepare according to directions for decorating gelatin molds. Add tongue. Let stand until firm and unmold. 7 6 PRACTICAL. COOKERY CRBAMKD SVl^KEiTBREIASS Let sweetbreads stand in cold water 1 hour. Drain and put into acidulated, boiling salt water. Let boil 20 minutes, then plunge into cold water to keep white and firm. Cut parboiled sweetbreads into cubes and reheat in white sauce. They may be served on toast or used as a filling for patty cases or Swedish timbales. STUFFED HEART Remove veins and arteries. Wash carefully. Simmer for 1 hour. Stuff. Sprinkle with salt and fepper (1 tablespoon- ful of salt to 1 pound; pepper to taste). Dredge with flour. Bake in a covered dish 2 hours, partly covered with, liquid in which it was stewed. Thicken liquid with flour to the thickness of sauce for creamed dishes and serve hot. LIVER AND BACON Cut the liver in slices % inch thick and cover with boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes to draw out the blood, drain, wipe, and remove outer skin and veins. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and saut4 in bacon fat. Serve with bacon. PRESSED VEAL 3 lbs. lean veal 1 egg 2 slices salt pork Salt 6 crackers (rolled) Pepper } c. melted butter Sage Wipe veal and salt pork and force through meat chopper. Add crackers, butter and egg, slightly beaten. Season highly with salt, pepper and sage. Mix well. Pack in a small bread tin and bake slowly 3 hours. Cool before turning from tin. Cut in thin slices for serving. May be served hot or cold. BREADED VEAL, CUTLETS Use round of veal cut % inch thick. Wipe, remove the bone and cut in pieces suitable for individual portions. Par- boll. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, beaten egg and crumbs. Saut4 or fry. MEAT 77 VEAL BIRDS Use 3-inch squares of round ot veal. Spread each piece •with stuffing, keeping it away from the edges. Trimmings may be ground and mixed with stuffing. If stuffing is not used, sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper. A slice of bacon may be substituted for the stuffing. Roll, skewer with toothpicks, roll in flour and saut6. Half cover with milk or water and simmer until tender. Remove to a hot platter and make a sauce for Creamed dishes, using the contents of the pan. Cover steak with sauce and serve. Veal birds may be baked instead of stewed. ROAST VKAL Roast as roast beef. Season highly to make it palatable. This is necessary because of the small per cent of extractives. ROAST PORK Roast as roast beef, cooking well done. PANBROILED OR BAKED CHOPS Chops are cut from either the rib or loin of lamb, mutton or pork. Rib chops, which have the bone shortened and scraped clean of meat nearly to the "eye" of lean meat, are called French chops. Wipe the chops, trim off extra fat. Panbroil. Season. In place ot panbroiling, tjtve chops may be baked. A spoonful of stuffing may be placed on each chop before baking. CURRY OF MUTTON 1 lb. neck or breast ot } tsp. curry powder mutton 1 slice onion 2 tsp. salt Peppercorns Spk. pepper Parsley Wipe and cut mutton in 1-inch pieces. Parboil, drain and return to kettle. Cover with 1 quart boiling water, add onion, peppercorns and parsley. Simmer until meat is tender. Re- move meat, strain liquor and use to make a sauce for creamed dishes. Flavor with curry. Add meats, reheat and serve wifu a border of steamed rice or mashed potatoes. 78 PRACTICAL COOKERY POUliTRY TO DRESS AND CLEAN Cut ofE the head and draw out the pin feathers. Remove hairs and down by holding the fowl over a flame (from gas, alcohol or burning paper), constantly changing the position \mtil all parts of the surface have been exposed to the flame. If tendons are to be drawn, cut through the skin around the leg 1^ inches below the leg joint, care being taken not to cut the tendons. Place the leg at this cut over the edge of the table and press downward to snap the bone. Hold the drumstick firmly with left hand and, using a steel skewer or fork, draw out the tendons one by one. Cut off the feet. Wash the fowl thoroughly, using a small brush, in water to which a little soda has been added. Rinse. Make a slit down th6 back of the neck. Remove crop and windpipe. Draw down the neck skin and cut off the neck close to the body, leaving the skin long enough to fasten under the back. Make a straight cut from % inch below tip of breastbone to vent. Cut around vent. Slip fingers in carefully and fully loosen en- trails. Carefully draw out entrails. The lungs, lying in the cavities under the breast, ahd the kidneys, in the hollow near the end of the backbone, must be taken out separately. Re- move the oil sack and wash the fowl by allowing cold water to run through it. TO CLEAN GISLETS The gizzard, the heart and the liver are known as the "giblets." Separate the gall bladder from the liver, cutting off any portion of the liver that may have a greenish tinge. Re- move the thin membranei the arteries, the veins, and the clotted blood around the heart. Cut the fat and the membranes from the gizzard. Make a gash through the thickest part of the gizzard as far as the inner lining, being careful not to pierce it. Remove the inner sack and discard. Wash care- fully. TO TRUSS When the fowl is wiped, singed and drkwn as by direc- MEAT 79 tions given above, put in the stuffing, it it is to be used; place a little in the opening at the neck.the rest in the body and sew up the opening. Draw the skin of the neck smoothly down and under the back, press the wings close against the body and fold the pinions under, crossing the back and holding down the skin of the neck. Press the legs close to the body and slip them under the skin as much as possible. Thread the trussing needle with white twine, using it double. Press the needle through the wing by the middle joint, pass it through the skin of the neck and back and out again at the middle joint of the other wing. Return the needle through the bend of the leg at th§ second point, through the body and out at the same point on the other side; draw the cord tight and tie it with the end at the wing joint. Thread the needle again and run •it through the legs and body at the thigh bone and back at the ends of the drumsticks. Draw the drumstick bones close to- gether, covering the opening made for drawing the fowl, and tie the ends. Have both knots on the same side of the fowl. When cooked, cut the cord on the opposite side and by the knots it can easily be drawn out. TO BONE Clean and carefully wash the chicken. Remove the neck by making an incision in the skin at the point on the back of the neck where it joins the body. Cut through the skin toward the head, folloycing the center of the neck. Cut off the head. Loosen the skin. Loosen the crop and the gullet from the gizzard and remove. Pull out the windpipe. At the base of the neck, cute the ligaments on both sides. Cut off the neck, being careful not to cut through the skin. Place the chicken on Its rump. Fold back the loose skin of the neck and scrape the wishbone bare. Pass the knife under the bones on both sides, thus loosening them from th& shoulders. With the fingers, free the wishbone from the meat, at the same time working it but of the body. Fold the loosened skin over the wing and hold It In place with the left hand. Turn the flesh inside out and work the bones loose with the fingers. The tip of the wing may be ciit so PRACTICAL. COOKERY off or left uaboned. Be careful not to cut through the skin. Free the flesh from the other shoulder and wing in the same way. Lay the chicken on its rump and carefully cut the flesh from the ribs and back. Fold the loosened flesh back with the left hand, so that the knife can follow the bones closely. The skin lies very close over the ridge of the breastbone and great care must be exercised to keep it whole. Use the fingers rath- er than the knife. When the hip joint is reached, push the flesh from the second joint, then from the leg, pulling the flesh down over the ends of the legs just as one often turns a glove wrong side out. Free the bones on the other side in the same way. Loosen the flesh from all of the bones surrounding the cavity. Cut a small hole around the vent. The back and keel containing the entrails may be slipped out through the neck opening. TO CUT UP A FOWL Cut off the head, draw out the pinfeathers, singe, remove the tendons, the feet and the oil sack. Wash thoroughly and cut off the neck. Cut through the loose skin between the leg and the body close to the body, bend back the leg (thus break- ing the ligaments), cut through the flesh and separate at the joint. Separate the upper part of the leg, the second joint, from the lower part of the leg, the drumstick. Cut through the skin and the flesh on the under side, where the wing joins the body, and disjoint the wing. Remove the leg and the wing from the other side. .Separate the breast from the back by cutting through the skin just below the breastbone and remove the internal organs. Bend the back portion until the backbone is broken and divide the back by cutting through the middle lengthwise. Remove the wishbone with the adjoining meat and separate the breast meat into two parts by cutting through the flesh close to the bone. Wash the pieces carefully. ROAST CHICKEN Dress, clean, stuff and truss a fowl. Lay on back on rack in roasting pan. Lay strip of salt pork on breast. Place in UBAT 81 hot oven until It begins to brown, then lower temperature and cook until very tender. Baste often with drippings in pan. Prom's to 4 hours will be required. STUFFING 4 c. finely broken stale t tap. chopped parsley bread S tsp. ground sage 15 tsp. salt 4 tbsp. butter h tsp. pepper 2 tsp. baking powder Hot milk or water to moisten Mix the salt, the pepper, the sage and the baking powder. Sprinkle over the bread, add the chopped parsley and the melted butter. Pour on the hot liquid gradually and mix thoroughly, stirring lightly. GIBLET SAUCE Make a brown sauce for creamed dishes, using for the fat, the drippings in the roaster; for the liquid, the stock in which the giblets have been cooked, and additional water it necessary, and stir in the giblets, finely diced. PRICASBE OF CHICKEN 1 fowl Salt 1 c. cream Pepper 3 egg yolks Cut up a fowl. Stew until tender and remove from liquid. Reduce liquid to 2 cupfuls. Make a sauce for creamed dishes, using the cream and stock mixed for the liquid. Pour the hot sauce over the beaten yolks of eggs. Place chicken in center of platter, surround with steamed rice or mashed potatoes and pour over it the sauce. SAUTED CHICKBIV Cut up a young chicken. Season with salt and pepper and d-eedge with flour. Brown in a generous quantity of hot tat. Cover and cook slowly 30 minutes. MARYLAND CHICKEN Dress, clean and cut up a fowl. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, -« 82 PRACTICAL COOKERY and flour, egg and crumb. Place in a well-oiled roaster and bake until tender in a moderate oven, basting after the first 5 minutes of cooking with melted fat, or pour over it Vz cupful of cream. Prepare brown sauce, using the drippings in the pan, and serve with the chicken. CHICKBN LOAF IVITH ASPARAGUS 1 chicken I tsp. salt t c. fresh bread crumbs J tsp. paprika 1 c. milk 3 eggs Cut up a chicken, parboil and remove flesh from bone and force through a food chopper. Cook the bread crumbs in the milk to a thin paste, stirring frequently. Add the salt, paprika and the chopped meat. Add the well-beaten yolks of eggs and fold in the whites, beaten dry. Turn the chicken mixture into an oiled mold and shake, that it may settle evenly. Set in a pan of hot water and let cook slowly for % of an hour to 2 hours, according to the age of the chicken. Turn from the mold onto a hot platter, garnish with asparagus in toast rings and serve with Bechamel sauce. JBI.LIRD CHICKEN 1 chicken cooked until Olives or pickles tender Celery or celery salt 4 hard-cooked eggs Salt 2 tbsp. gelatin Pepper Reduce the liquor in which the chicken was cooked to 1 pint. Add the diced or minced chicken, sliced eggs, the celery, salt and pepper, and pickles or olives. Add the gelatin soaked in % cupful of cold water and dissolved over hot water. Put into wet molds and chill thoroughly. The jelly and the food may be added one layer at a time, arranging th« food in a design if desired. COLD SOUFFLE i c. liquid aspic J c. cream i c. tomato puree J c. chopped, cooked i tbsp. vinegar chicken Whip the cream until stiff. Add tomato pur6e and vinegar to the aspic. Add this to the whipped cream, keeping all MEAT 83 chilled. Fold in the chopped, cooked chicken. Place on ice until thoroughly cold and serve. •CnEAM OF CHICKEN G I.ACE } c. double cream Salt J c. cooked chicken Pepper i c. cliiiken aspic Celery salt Cut chicken into cubes. Beat cream until stiff. Pour the aspic over the cream, season and blend together. Fold in the chicken. Chill thoroughly. Cut in dice or slices % inch thick and serve on lettuce leaves. May be dressed with French dressing. CREAMED FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH ONIONS H c. stock i c. cream 4 tbsp. flour 3 egg' yolks 3 tbsp. butter Salt 2 chickens Pepper 4 bunches of onions Ijemon juice Remove breasts and second joints from chickens. Cook in small quantity of water with onions. Remove chicken to serving dish as soon as tender. Reduce stock. Drain onions from stock. Melt butter. Add flour and pour stock in grad- ually. As soon as boiling point is reached, add cream, slightly beaten egg yolks, salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. Add onions and pour pver chicken. FISH Fish may be baked, broiled, fried or saut6d, according to individual fancy, but certain ways are more suitable for some varieties than for others. Oily 'fish, as salmon, bluefish and mackerel, being rich and moist, should be cooked by other methods than saut^ing and frying. White fish, as cod, haddock and halibut, will bear cooking by these latter methods. When the white varieties are cooked in water, they should be served with rich sauces and, when baked, they should be larded and basted often. All fish must be thoroughly cooked. S4 PRACTICAL COOKERY TO CLEAN Flsb, either fresh or salt, is better if it is cleaned and drawn immediately on being taken from the water. Fish cleaned at the market will need additional cleaning. Remove the scales which have not been taken off. This is done by drawing a knife over the fish, beginning at the tail and working toward the head, occasionally wiping the knife and the scales from the fish. Incline the knife slightly toward you to prevent the scales from flying. Wash quickly, inside and out, drain, and dry. TO SKIN Cut off the fins along the back and then a narrow strip ef skin down the full length of the back; also cut the skin around the head. Loosen the skin below the head, then draw it oft from one side of the fish, pulling gently with one hand and pushing with the back of a knife held in the other hand, so as to keep the flesh whole. Repeat the process on the other side of the fish. TO BONE Beginning at the tail, run a sharp knife close to the back- bone its entire- length. With knife and fingers remove flesh carefully from bones. Repeat on the other side. Cod, haddock, halibut and white fish are easily and fre- quently boned. A fillet is a piece of fish, large or small, freed from skin and bones. TO COOK IN WATER Small fish are cooked whole; large fish are cut in thick pieces for boiling. Sufiicient water to cover the fish is used, to which is added salt and lemon juice or vinegar. Salt gives flavor; lemon juice, or vinegar, keeps the fiesh white. A long fish kettle containing a rack on which to place the fish is use- ful, but rather expensive. In place of this, if the fish is not too large to be coiled in it, a frying basket may be. used, placed in any kettle, or the fish may be tied in a piece of cheesecloth. Fish should be placed in warm water which is brought quick- ly to the boiling point, then simmered until the 'flesh separates MEAT eS readny from, the bones. After simmering begins, the cooking will take from 5 to 8 minutes to the pound, according to the thickness. BROILBD FISH Split the fish down the back. Clean and wipe as dry as possible. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and place in a well oiled wire broiler. Broil first on the 'flesh side, then turn and broil on the skin side just long enough to make the skin brown and crisp. Remove from broiler to a hot platter. SAUTKD FISH Clean fish and cut in individual portions. Dip in flour, com meal or fine bread crumbs. SautS. FRIED FISH Clean fish and cut in individual portions. Sprinkle with salt. Crumb, egg and crumb fish. Fry, drain and serve. PLANKFD FISH Select any white fish (whitefish or shad preferred). Scale or skin fish, wash and wipe dry. Bone and place on a hot plank, skin side down, folding one side over the other, thus bringing the two halves together. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and baste with butter. (Fish may be larded with bacpn strips.) Place on grate of oven and bake 30 minutes. Serve on plank, garnished with lemon and parsley or with mashed potatoes. BAKED FISH WITH OYSTER STUFFING 1 fresh fish, 3 or 4 lbs. Lemon juice 1 pt. oysters 1 egg Salt 1 tbsp. milk Pepper 1 c. crumbs Clean, skin and bone fish. Season the fillets thus produced with salt and pepper and brush with lemon juice and beaten egg, diluted with the milk. Lay one of the seasoned fillets on a well oiled fish sheet. Cover with oysters dipped in crumbs. Lay the other fillet over these. Brush with beaten egg. Cover thickly with buttered crumbs and bake about an homr. Serve with Hollandaise sauce. 86 PRACTICAL COOKERY FISH TURBANS Cut fillet of fish. Roll into circle and skewer with tooth- picks. Lay thin slice of bacon on each turban. Place on rack in baking pan and bake in moderate oven 20 minutes. Remove toothpicks and serve with HoUandaise sauce. SCALLOPED FISH Follow directions given under sauces. For food use cooked, shredded or flaked fish. FISH SODFFLB Follow directions given under sauces. For food use cooked, shredded or flaked fish. FISH CROftUETTS Follow directions given under sauces. For food use cooked, shredded or flaked fish. CREAMED FISH Follow directions given under sauces. For food use cooked, shrdded or flaked fish. FISH BALLS 1 c salt codfish I well beaten egg 2 c. raw potatoes t tbsp. butter Shred codfish. Soak over night. Lift out of water and boil until tender. Boil and mash potatoes. Add codfish, bat- tear and egg. Beat with fork 2 minutes. Form in balls t% inches in diameter and fry, drain and serve. SALMON LOAF 1 c. bread crumbs 2 tbsp. lemon juice 2 a salmon i tsp. salt 2 c. white sauce tor } tsp. cayenne pepper croquettes 2 eggrs Add seasoning to white sauce. Add bread crumbs and salmon. Add eggs, slightly beaten. Put into oiled molds and steam 1 hour. Serve with tomato, brown or white sauce. MEAT 87 CASSEROLE OP RICE AND SALMON Prepare as casserole of rice and meat, using canned or cooked salmon. FRIED OYSTERS Clean and dry oysters. Season with salt and pepper, crumb, egg and crumb. Pry and drain. SCALLOPED OYSTERS Clean and drain oysters. Pill oiled baking dish with al- ternate layers of buttered bread crumbs and oysters, having the last layer of crumbs. Season well with bits of butter, salt and pepper. Pour enough milk into the dish to moisten thoroughly; bake in a quick oven 20 minutes. OYSTER COCKTAIL 24 small raw oysters j tsp. salt 6 tbsp. tomato catsup 6 tsp. cUopped celery 3 tbsp. lemon juice or 8 tsp. Worcestershire vinegar sauce 12 drops Tobasco sauce 6 tsp. grated horseradish Mix all the ingredients except oysters and chill thoroughly. Place oysters on cracked ice in cocktail glasses and, just before serving, add the sauce. 88 PRACTICAL COOKERY CHEESE Cheese is a very valuable food, which is rich in protein and therefore may be substituted for meat and used much more commonly than it is It is, however, a very concentrated food difficult of digestion in its raw state, and should be diluted. in cooking, with milk or eggs. To be digestible, it should al- ways be cooked at a moderate temperature or protected from the high heat of the oven by layers of other materials, such as thin slices of bread or layers of crumbs. COTTAGE CHEESE 3.qts. sour milk Salt 2 tbsp. butter Pepper Pour milk into a flat pan and let stand in a warm place on stove (about 37° C. or 98° F.) until the curd is completely separated from the whey. Strain through a cloth and shake until dry. Stir in butter, salt and pepper, and cool before serving. MACARONI AND CHEESE 2 i;. cooked macaroni 1 c. grated cheese 2 c. white sauce for h i;. buttered crumbs creamed dishes Combine macaroni, cheese and sauce in layers in buttered baking dish and sprinkle crumbs over top. Bake in a moderate oven until browned. CHEESE SOUFFLE 1 c. white sauce for 3 eggs souffles 1 c grated cheese Add cheese to white sauce and stir until melted. Proceed, following directions for sou£3^s given under sauces. SPICED CUE^E PUDDING 2 slices stale bread i c. sugar. 2 eggs 3 c. seeded raisins i tsp. salt J tsp. allspice 1 c milk J tsp. mace 1 c. cottage cheesy j tsp. cloves i tsp. soda CHEESE Sfl Cut the bread into cubes and place in an oiled baking dish. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately. Blend witli yolks the milk, salt, sugar and cheese, to which has been added the soda. Add the spice and chopped raisins and, lastly, fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Pour this mixture over the cubes of bread and bake like a custard in a moderate oven. If de- sired, the white of 1 egg may be beaten separately, sweetened with 1 tablespoon of sugar and spread over the top of the pudding just before removing it from the oven. chbejse; pudding 8 thin slices of bread, 2 c. milk buttered s tsp. salt li c. grated cheese Pepper 4 eggs Oil baking dish. Cut bread to fit bottom of dish. Place te dish, add cheese and cover with bread. Mix egg, milk, salt and pepper and pour over contents of dish. Set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven until firm, CHEESE FONDli 1 «^ scalded millt 1 tbsp. butter 1 c. soft, stale bread 5 tsp. salt crumbs 3 egg yolks 5 lb. mild cheese, cut in 3 egg whites small pieces Mix miHt, bread crumbs, cheese, melted butter and salt Add yolks of eggs, beaten until lemon-colored. Cut and fold in whites of eggs, beaten until stiff. Pour into a buttered baking Aisit and bake 20 minutes in a moderate oven. che:bse: balls S c grated cheeee Spk. cayenne pepper 2 tbsp. flour 4 egg whites i tsp. salt Cracker crumbs Mix oheese, flour and seasonings. Add stiffly beaten whites. Shape in small balls, »oIl in cracker crumbs and fry •ntil golden brown. 90 PRACTICAL, COOKERY CHBBSE CANAPES Toast circular pieces of bread, buttered thinly. Sprinkle with thick layer of grated cheese,, seasoned with salt and ca- yenne. Place on a baking sheet and bake until cheese (a melted. Serve at once. 1 tbsp. butter 1 tbsp. flour 1 c. milk 6 tbsp. cheese Make a cream sauce, stirring constantly until crackers. BARBBIT i tsp. 9alt i tsp. mustard Crackers or toast add cheese and cook over hot water, cheese melts. Serve on toast or SOUPS 91 SOUPS SOUPS MADE WITH STOCK Standard Broth is made from any meat or meats, seasoned and strained. Bouillon is made from lean meat, delicately seasoned and iisually cleared. Consomm£ is usually made from two or three kinds of meat, highly seasoned and always served clear. Miscellaneous soups are made from vegetables, alone or with meats. SOUPS MADE WITH OR WITHOUT STOCK Purees are made by pressing any vegetable through a sieve into its own stock. I'lain purees are thick soups in which the vegetable pulp 'piir6e) is combined with its own or a meat stock. Milk purees are thick soups in which the pur^e is diluted with cream or milk. Bisques are generally made from diced shell fish, broth, milk and seasonings. Cliowder is a thick unstrained stew made by combining cut meat, fish and vegetables with milk. TO CLEAR STOCK Remove the fat; if the stock' has jellied, wring a cloth out of warm water and gently wipe over the surface. The cloth, will take up any particles of fat remaining upon the jelly. If the stock is liquid, lay a piece of tissue paper upon it, press it lightly upon the liquid and the fat will adhere to it. If it is desired to use the stock before it has become thoroughly cold and the fat set, dip the tat from the top with a spoon. Then put a piece of ice wrapped in a cloth into the stock, holding it near the top, and the remaining fat will cling to the cloth. To ■each quart of stock add the crushed shell and slightly beaten white of 1 egg. Mi.x together thoroughly and heat, stirring all the time until the liquid boils. As the liquid heats, the egg 92 PRACTICAL COOKERY albumen coagulates. Any fine particles floating in the stock will adhere to the coagulated albumen. Some rise to the top and form scum, others are precipitated. Let boil vigorously 5 minutes, then add % cupful of cold water arid set the sauce- pan aside or on the cool part of the range for about 5 minutes. Skim carefully, then strain through a double thickness of cheescloth placed over a fine strainer. Reheat and serve. If the stock to be cleared is not sufiSciently seasoned, additional seasoning must be added as soon as the stock has lost its jelly- like consistency, otherwise it will be cloudy. BROWN SOUP STOCK 6 lbs. shin of beef 2 sprigs parsley 3 qts. cold water J c. carrots, diced I tsp. peppercorns J v. turnips, diced 6 cloves I c. onions, diced S bay leaf J t. celery, diced Wipe beef and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown %of meat in hot frying pan in the marrow. Put remaining % with bone and fat in soup kettle, add water and .let stand for 30 minutes. Place on the cool part of the range, add browned meat and heat gradually to boiling point. Cover and cook slowly 6 hours, keeping below boiling point. Add vege- tables and .seasonings, cook 1 % hours and strain. WHITE SOUP STOCK 4 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 onion 2 qts. cold water 2 stalks celery 1 tbsp. salt Blade of mace or 1 bay leaf I tsp. peppercorns 1 lemon, sliced Wipe the meat, remove from bone and cut in small pieces. Put meat. bone, water. lemon and seasoning in kettle. Heat gradually to boiling point. Simmer 4 or 5 hours and strain. CHICKEN BROTH WITH EGG Beat 1 egg slightly and pour in gradually, while stirring constantly, 1 cupful of boiling chicken stock. SODPS S3 EGG BOUILLON 1 egg 1 c. brown stock Beat egg slightly and pour the heated stock over It grad- ually, stirring constantly. JVLIENNK SOUP 1 qt. brown soup stock i c. mixed cooked vege- tables cut In strips, cubes, or fancy shapes Heat stock to boiling and add the cut vegetables. GERMAN BROWN BROTH 2 carrots i tbsp. olive oil 1 slice onion 1 bay leaf 1 tsp. salt 1 qt. boiling water 12 cheese balls Pepper 1 potato Scrape and dice the carrots. Pare and dice the potato. Slice the onion. Put olive oil into a saucepan. Add the vege- tables and shake until a golden brown. Take them out with a skimmer and put them into a kettle. Add boiling water, bay leaf, salt, and pepper. Simmer 20 minutes. Press through a pur6e sieve, return to kettle. Serve with cheese balls. CREAM SOUP Follow directions given under sauces. For food use stock and pulp of any boiled vegetable. CREAM OF SALMON SOUP Make as lor cream soups, using % the proportion of butter. CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP IJ t. hot white sauce 2 cloves 1 c. tomato juice and pulp 1 bay leaf Spk. baking soda Add cloves and bay leaf to tomatoes and bring to a boil. Let boil 1 minute, then add soda and strain. Pour the tomato juice into the white sauce, stirring constantly, and reheat quickly. Avoid bringing to a boil. Whip with Dover beater and serve a* once. 94 PRACTICAL COOKERY EHESRGBNCT SOUP 1) c. tomatoes Spk. pepper 3 c. water Spk. celery salt 2 tbsp. butter 3 tap. salt 1 tbsp.' cornstarch 3 cloves Mix all ingredients together and cook 1 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Strain and serve. JVBAPOLITAN SOUP 2 c. milk 1 tsp. flour 1 egg } c. cooked macaroni % rind of lemon } tsp. salt '^ small onion Heat 1 % cupf uls of milk with lemon 'rind and onion to bo'iling point; simmer for a few minutes and strain. Make a paste with flour and the remainder of the milk, add to hot milk and stir until it boils. Beat egg with salt until light and pour onto it gradually % boiling milk, ^stirring all the time. Heat all together until very hot, but do not boil. Add maca- roni cut in Vi -inch lengths. Sprinkle chopped parsley over and serve. BE.\N AND TOMATO SOUP 1 v. boiled beans i c. thin cream 1 c. stewed tomatoes J c. cooked rice li tsp. salt Press beans and tomatoes through a sieve. Add salt, cream and rice. Thin to cream soup consistency with boiling water. CHICKEN GUMBO 1 onion, finely chopped 2 tsp salt 4 tbsp. butter } tsp. pepper 1 qt. chicken .stock J green pepper, flnely J can okra chopped Cook onion with butter 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Add to chicken stock to which have been added remaining In- gredients. Bring to the boiling point and let simmer for 40 minutes. SOUPS 95 cheese: soup 1 qt. milk 1 blade mace 1 tbsp. onion Pepper pod 2 tbsp. flour i c. grated cheese 2 tbsp. butter 2 egg yolks 1 c. milk 1 tsp. salt Put oniqn, mace and pepper pod in milk and scald. Strain scalded milk over blended fat and flour and bring to a boll, stir- ring constantly. Add cheese and stir until it is melted. Pour this mixture slowly onto beaten yolks and whip until frothy. , PEANUT SOUP 2 c. milk Salt 4 tbsp. peanut butter Pepper Scald milk, add peanut butter and seasonings to taste, and serve. ALMOND SOUP % c. almonds 3 tbsp. butter 6 bitter almonds 2 tbsp. flour 4 -tbsp. cold water 2 c. scalded milk I tsp. salt 1 c. cream 3 c. stock Salt 1 small onion Pepper 3 stalks celery Blanch, chop and force almonds through a meUt cutter. Add gradually water and salt; then add stock, sliced onion and celery. Let simmer 1 hour and rub thromgh a sieve. Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually the hot liquor; then add milk, cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with mock almonds. BAKED BEAN "SeUP WITH TOtdATO 3 c. cold baked beans 2 tbsp. butter 3 pts. water 2 tbsp. flour 2 slices onion 1 tbsp. Chili sauce 2 stalks celery Salt 11 c. stewed and strained Pepper tomatoes Put beans, water, onion and celery into a kettle, bring to boUing point and simmer 30 minutes. Rub through a sieve, add tomato, Chili sauce, and butter and flour rubbed together. Boil 3 minutes and season to taste with salt and pepper. ' 96 PRACTICAL COOKERY OYSTI3R STEW 1 c. oysters Salt 2 c. milk Pepper 2 tbsp. butter Clean and drain oysters, add enough water to oorer and scatd. With a skimmer remove particles which float to top. Add scalded milk, seasoning, bring to the boiling point and serve. CORIV CHOWDEIR 1 c. corn 1 c. cream or milk i lb. salt pork, diced Salt' 1 onion, sliced Pepper 1 at. boiling water 8 crackers 1 qt. potatoes, sliced Parboil potatoes. Drain. Try the fat from pork. Slice the onion and brown in the fat. Add the fkt to boiling' water, add potatoes and corn and cook until tender. Add the cream or milk and season to taste. Reheat and pour over the crackers. FISH CHOWDER 1 c. flsli, diced 1 c. cream or miltc } lb. salt pork, diced Salt 1 onion, sliced Pepper 1 qt. fish stock 8 crackers^ 1 at. potatoes, sliced Clean, bone and dice fish. Make stock from diced fish and fish bones. Parboil potatoes. Drain. Try the fat from pork. Slice the onion and brown in the fat. Add the fat to boiling stock, add potatoes add fish and cook until tender. Add creair or milk and seasoning to ta^te. Reheat and pour over crackers. CORN SOCP^ 2 c. sauce for cream soups 2 tsp. onion. Juice 1 c corn 2 egg yolks t c water Bro-wn onion in butter before making sauce. Cook com in water till softened. Rub through coarse sieve. Add com to sauce and pour over beaten egg. FLOUR MIXTURES 97 FLOUR MIXTURES Flour mixtures are combinations of liquid and flour. These are leavened by the addition of some material which will lighten the mixture, thus increasing the digestibility and im- proving the appearance and taste. Flour mixtures are classified as doughs and batters. The classification is based upon the proportion of flour to liquid. There are two' kinds of batters, or mixtures which can be stirred with a spoon. A pour batter contains one part of flour to one part of liquid. A drop batter contaips two parts of flour to one part of liquid. There are two kinds of doughs, or mixtures which can be rolled on a board or kneaded. A soft dough contains three parts of Sour to one part of liquid. A stiff dough contains four parts of flour to one part of liquid. These doughs and batters may be lightened by the expan- sion of water by heat; the expansion of air incorporated by the addition of beaten eggs; or by the generation of a gas. Gas is generated by the use of soda with heat and moisture; of soda with the acid of sour milk, molasses or cream of tartar; and by the use of baking powder. Yeast may "be used to leaven, because during the process of its growth a gas Is liberated. The following general proportions are used in leavening flov mixtures: when baking powder is used. It requires two teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one cupful of flour; if eggs are used, less baking powder is required; one egg or two egg whites- may be substituted for oqe teaspoonful of baking powder. To neutralize the acid and to produce the required amount of gas, the following proportions will be approximately cor- rect: one-half teaspoonful of soda to one cupful of sour milk; 9S PRACTICAL COOKERY one-half teaspoonful of soda to one cupful of molasses; or oae teaspoonful of soda to two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Often a sufficient amount of gas is not produced by the amount of soda required to neutralize the acid and baking powder or baking powder and egg may be added to leaven the mixture. SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES 1 egg ■ i tspj salt i c. milk 4 tsp. olive oil i c. flour Beat the egg slightly and add the milk; add gradually to the sifted flour and salt. When smooth add the olive oil and set aside for 1 hour. Fry with timbale irons. A rosette iron may be used. If the cases lack in crispness and are thick and soft, more milk is needed; when right, the finished cases are very thin, delicate and crisp. TO USE SWEDISH TIMBALE IRONS Put the iron into the kettle with the fat, having the fat deep enough to more than covfr the iron. Heat the fat until hot enough to fry uncooked mixtures. Drain the iron and dip into the batter (held in a cup or small bowl). Hold the iron at an angle until the bottom is covered, then straighten and low- er to V2 inch from top of iron. Hold straight and lower into the fat £fnd hold there until the case is crisp and light brown. Take from the fat, remove the case from the iron and turn upside down on soft paper to drain. Return iron to batter without dipping into the fat unless it needs reheating. If the iron is lowered too far into the batter, the case will spread over the top of the iron and. be troublesome to remove. If, on dipping the iron into the batter, the mixture does not cling to it, the iron is not hot enough. If the fat sizzles considerably and the case spreads out and drops from the iron, it is too hot. POPOVERS J c. flour 5 tsp. salt 1 c. milk 2 tsp. butter 2 eggs Beat the egg thoroughly. Add gradually, while beating, the milk, melted butter and the flour with which the salt ha» FLOUR MIXTURES 99 been sifted. Put M teaspoontul of butter into each hot muffin tin. Fill tins half full with batter and bake in a hot oven 30 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately. Half entire-wheat or graham flour may be' used for variation. WAFFLES 2 c. nour 2 c. sour milk 1 tsp. soda 2 egg yolks J tsp. salt Z egg whites 2 tbsp. shortening Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the milk gradually, the yolks of the eggs well beaten, the shortening melted, and the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Cook on a hot, well oiled waffle iron. A waffle iron should fit closely on the range, be well heated on one side, turned, heated on the o'ther side and thoroughly oiled before the iron is filled. In filling, put 2 tablespoonfuls of the mixture in each compartment near the center of the iron, cover, and the mixture will spread to just fin the iron. If sufficiently heated, it should be turned almost as soon as it is filled and covered. Two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and 2 cupfuls of sweet milk may be substituted for the soda and sour milk. This recipe will make 6 waffles. SOVR MII.K GBIDDI.E CAKES 1 c. flour 1 c. sour milk J tsp. salt i tsp. soda 1 egg 1 tbsp. butter Mix and sift flour, salt and soda; add sour milk and egg well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on an oiled, hot griddle; cook on one side. When puffed, full of bubbles and cooked on edges, turn and cook other side. Serve at once. One cupful, of sweet milk and 1 teaspoonfuV of baking powder may be substituted for the sour milk and soda. BUCKWHEAT CAKES j cake compressed yeast 2 qts. water 1 tsp. salt Buckwheat flour 1 tsp. melted butter !, tsp. baking soda 1 tbsp. molasses Dissolve the yeast in % cupful of lukewarm water, pouring 100 PRACTICAL COOKERY' it Into the pitcher with 2 quarts of water the same temperature. Make a smooth pour batter with bucliwheat flour. Add the salt. Beat well and let stand over night; In the morning take out a pint of the mixture and set aside. Put into the pitchei- the remaining ingredients. Mix lightly all together and bake on a hot griddle. If there is any batter left after baking, add to it the pint which has been set aside and, the night before using^ pour in a pint of lukewarm water, add salt and sufficient flour to make the batter as previously directed and proceed as before, except now add % teaspoonful of baking soda dissolved in a little water and stirred in carefully just before baking. Always save out some batter the first thing in the morning for the next baking. If some white flour is desired, simply lessen the quantity of buckwheat. Making the batter in this way may be continued for a week, if kept in a cool place, then if any is left it should be thrown out and a fresh start made. BOSTOiV BROWN HRRAU 1 c. corn. meal 3 c. molasses 1 c. flour 1 tsp. salt 2 c. sour milk Ij tsp. soda 1 c. graham flour Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Mix the sour milk and molasses. Stir in the di'y ingredients, beating thoroughly. Turn into well oiled mold. Cover tightly and steam 2 to 3 hours, depending on size of mold. Remove cover and dry in oven 15 minutes. Take from can and slice with string. SOUTHERN BATTKR BREAD i c. corn meal 1 egg J tsp. salt 1* c. milk Spk. pepper Sift the dry ingredients. Add the milk and cook about 15 minutes in double boiler. Add egg. Put in oiled baking dish, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven 45 minutes. Serve with a spoon, adding butter, salt and pepper. FLOUR MIXTURES 101 MUFPINS i >;. butter 1 egg i c. sugar 1 c. milk } tsp. salt 2 c. flour 3 tsp. baking powder Cream the butter, add the sugar' abd the well beaten egfc. Sift the baking powder with the flour and add to the first mix- tare, alternating with 'the milk. Bake in oiled muffin tins 26 minutes. One half cupful of finely cut dates or raisins, or cur- rants, may be added if desired. The recipe yields 8 muffins. GRAHAM MUFFINS Make as muffins, using equal parts of graham or whole- wheat flour and white flour. CORN MEAIi MUFFINS Make as muffins, using % corn meal and % flour. SALI-Y tUNN 2 0. flour i c. shortening i tsp. salt 2 tsp. baking powder 2 eggs, beaten separately 1 <;. milk Sift the flour, the baking powder and the salt together. Beat the yolks, add the milk and the shortening. Mix with the flour mixture. Add the whites, beaten stiff. Bake in a loaf and serve hot. CORN BRBAD 1 c. corn meal 1 c. sour milk 1 c. flour 1 tbsp. butter i c. sugar 1 egg i tsp. salt h tsp. soda Sift soda with flour and mix dry ingredients. Beat egg well. Melt butter and add to egg. Mix sour milk and egg, beat this into dry ingredients. Pour mixture into oiled tin and bake in hot oven about 25 minutes. BRAN BRBAD 1 c. bran 1 egg 3 tbsp. molasses 1 tsp. salt 3 tsp. baking powder Flour to make h. drop 1 c. milk flatter " 102 PRACTICAL COOKERY Sift baking powder, salt and flour together. Beat the egg, add the molasses, mix well. Add milk, bran and flour alternately, beating well after each addition. Turn into well oiled tin iand bake from 30 to 45 minutes in a moderate oven. NUT BREAD ^ 2 eegB 2 u. graham flour (un- li c. sugar sifted) 2 »;. sweet milk 1 tbsp. salt 2 c. white flour 4 tbsp. balcingr powder 1 i;. English walnuts Beat eggs thoroughly, add sugar and beat. Add dry in- gredients and milk alternately. Pour in two oiled bread pans and let stand 25 minutes before baking. Bake 1 hour tn moderate oven. GINGBRBREAO 1 c. shortening 1} i;. flour I c. brown sugar i tsp. soda 1 egg 2 tsp. ginger i c. molasses 1 tsp. cinnamon i c. boiling water } tsp. salt Sift flour, spice, salt and soda together. Mix shortening and sugar, add egg and molasses. Add dry ingredients and liquid alternately. Bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes. To darken color add Vi teaspoonful of cocoa. BAKED BROWN BREAD 2 c. sour milk 1 c. flour J c. mild molasses or 2 c. graham flour 2 tbsp. molasses, if 1 tsp. salt strong, and i c. sugar li tsp. soda 1 tbsp. melted lard Mix dry Ingredients thoroughly. Mix sour milk, lard and molasses. Stir in the dry ingredients, beating thoroughly. Turn into an oiled pan and bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. BAKIIVG POWDER BISCUITS 2 c. flour Z tbsp. shortening 4 tsp. baking powder 3 to 1 c. milk, or milk 1 tsp. salt and water Sift the dry ingredients twice. Cut in the shortening, the* FLOUR MIXTURES 103 add gradually the milk, mixing with a knife. The dough should be as soft as can be handled without sticking. Turn onto a lightly floured board, roll lightly % inch thick and cut quick- ly with a floured cutter Bake in a hot oven 121to 15 minutes. DROrPED BISCUITS Add to the ingredients for biscuits enough more milk to make a thick drop batter (about 2 tablespoonfuls. ) Mix as directed fdr biscuits and place by spoonfuls, Vz inch apart, in a floured tin. The mixture should not be soft enough to spread Bake in a hot oven 10 to 12 minutes DUMPLINGS FOR STEWS Follow the directions for dropped biscuits. An egg may added, if desired, and water used instead of milk. When the stew is cooked remove the meat from the kettle and place a rack in the bottom of the kettle, allowing the liquid to come up to the top of the rack. Drop the dough by spoonfuls on the rack, cover tightly and boil 12 minutes without lifting the cover. These dumplings may also be cooked in a steamer or dropped by spoonfuls upon a roast and baked in the oven When used with a roast, they are sometimes made more like biscuit dough and cut in the same way GRAHAM BREAD 2 c. sour milk 1 c. white flour 1 u. molasses IJ tsp. soda 4 c. graham flour 3 t.sp salt 1 tsp. baking powder Sift soda, baking powder, salt and white flour Together and mix with sour milk and molasses. Add graham flour gradually, beating thoroughly. Pour mixture into two well oiled bread tins and bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. ^04 PRACTICAL COOKER"? BREAD The art of bread making has developed until the light, spongy loaf of the housekeeper of today is scarcely compar- able to the loaf made from the coarsely ground meal, mixed with water and baked in the ashes, that satisfied our ancestors. The ideal loaf of today may be described from the score- card used for judging contest bread, page 105. The color of the crust should be a golden brown, evenly colored on top, sides and bottom. The surface should, be smooth, without cracks on the sides or creases in the bottom. The loaf should be symmetrical, with straight edges and a slightly rounded top. When the loaf is freshly cut it should show thoroughness of baking. This is tested by pressing the freshly cut loaf until crust touches crust. When released it should spring back into shape without injury to the crumb. The crumb should be creamy white and should have a feathery appearance, with small, uniform openings. There should be an absence of all acidity, with a fresh, nutty flavor. This ideal loaf can only be obtained with good materials and careful manipulation. The flour should be a creamy white and must contain a good quality of gluten. It should be free from contamination by bacteria or molds. The yeast should contain a large number of healthy yeast plants and should not contain any lactic acid bacteria. The liquid should be sterilized to free it from organisms. The shortening should be fresh and of good flavor In the manipulation of the dough extreme cleanliness i§ necessary. The dough should be a smooth, uniform, well aerated mixture, which may be obtained by thorough beating and light, firm kneading. It should be kept at the temperature most favorable to the growth of the yeast plant (77 "-95° F, ; 25°-35'' C.) until the gas produced by the yeast in its growth has leavened the mixture to double its bulk. Kneading down occasionally will, by stretching the gluten, increase the feath- ery appearance of the crumb. BREAD 105 The loaf should be carefully shaped to fit an individual loaf tin (9%x4>/fex3'/4 ), and carefully pressed into the corners of the tin to insure straight edges. Before baking it should rise to double its bulk. The oven should be hot at first, until the crust is set,, which should take the first 15 minutes. Dur- ing this time the loaf should be turned frequently to insure even heat and even rising. At the end of this time the temper- ature should be gradually diminished to prevent too thick and too brown a crust before the baking is accomplished. This will take 50 to 6t) minutes to cook the starch and destroy the yeast in the center of the loaf. On taking from the oven the bread should be cooled in SCORE CARD FOR BREAD (U. S. DeiJartmeni of Atrricult.ure) General appearance Shape SmoothBess of crust Depth and evennes.s of color Lightness Crust Thickness Quality (crispness and plasticity) Crumb Color Te.'iture (size and uniformity of cells, thinness of cell v.all) Elasticity (softness and springi- ness) Flavor (taste and odor). Tot A I- 15 10 10 40 100 106 PRACTICAL COOKERY currents, of air and then put away, without wrappinfr. in a closed tin or earthen jar. YEAST 4 medium-sized raw J c. sugar potatoes', pared 1 tbsp. salt 1 qt. boiling water 1 cake dry yeast Grate the potatoes into the rapidly boiling water. BoO until the starch is cooked, stirring constantly. Stir in tbe sugar and salt while it is hot, cool to lukewarm, then add the yeast cake, which has been broken up and soaked in a little warm water. Put into a jar. Allow to ferment 24 hours, thea set In a cool, dark place. This will keep about 2 weeks and the last cupful may be used in place of a dry yeast cake in making a new. supply. WHITE BREAD (STRAIGHT DOUGH METHOD) 1 0. milk, water, or wliey J c. potato yeast or 1 tbsp. sugar 1 yeast cake 1 tbsp. shortening 3i to 4-c. flour 1 tsp, salt Measure the salt, the sugar and the shortening into a mixing bowl. Add the scalded liquid and cool the mixture to lukewarm, stirring occasionally. Shake the yeast, measure and add it to the milk mixture. (If dry or compressed yeaat is used, soften it in lukewarm boiled water, using % cupful t» % cake of yeast.) Add the flour gradually, beating thoroughly after each addition, until the dough can be lifted in a mass oa the spoon, leaving the bowl free from dough. Turn onto a floured board and knead lightly, keeping a small amount ot flour on the board until the loaf is smooth, elastic to the toncb and stiff enough so that it will not stick to a clean bo^d in kneading. Put into a clean bowl, cover tightly (to prevent the formation of a crust) and let rise until double its bulk. Knead on an unfloured board just enough to distribute the gas bubbles thoroughly. Shape into a loaf and place in an oiled tin, pres- sing into the corners. Let rise again until double its bulk, and bake in a hot oven 50 to 60 minutes. The heat may be moder- BREAD 107 ated after the first half of the baking Remove the loaf from the tin and cool on a wire rack. In using some flours an extra kneading and rising im- proves the quality of the bread. WHITE UREAD (SPONGE METHOD) Use the same ingredients as for the quick method. Add the scalded liquid to the sugar, the salt and the shortening in the mixing bowl, cool to lukewarm and add the yeast. Beat in sufficient flour to make a drop batter, then cover and let rise 8 or 10 hours, or over night. In the morning, add the re- mainder of the flour, knead, as in the other method, and allow to rise until double its bulk. Complete according to directions for quick method. If a large amount of shortening is to be used, add it just before mixing into a dough. GRAHAM OR ENTIRE-WHEAT BREAD Use the same ingredients as for the white bread, substitut- ing %, or more, graham or entire-wheat flour PARKER HOUSE ROLLS J c. milk 3 to I cake compressed 1 thsp. sugar yeast 1 tbsp. butter 1 tbsp. lukewarm water 5 tsp. salt IJ to 2 c. flour Measure the sugar, butter and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the scalded milk and cool to lukewarm, stirring occa- sionally. Soften the yeast in the lukewarm water and add it to the milk mixture. Add the flour gradually, beating thor- oughly, until no more can be worked in with a spoon. Cover tightly and let rise until 3 times its bulk. Turn onto a lightly floured board, knead slightly and roll % inch thick. Cut with a round or oval floured cutter. Crease in the middle with a floured knife handle, rub Vi with melted butter and fold over. Place 1 inch apart in an oiled tin and let rise until double in size. Bake in a hot oven 15 to 20 minutes. TO GLAZE PARKER HOUSE ROLLS OR OTHER FANCY BREAD Brush with melted butter, or milk and sugar ( 1 table- spoonful of sugar to ^ cupful of milk) before baking. lOS PRACTICAL COOKERY Brush with egg, slightly beaten and diluted with 1 table- spoonful of water or milk, when taken from oven, and return for a few minutes to glaze the top. The egg yolk or the egg white, diluted with water or milk, may be used instead of the whole egg, if desired. When baked and nearly cool, brush over with confection- er's sugar, moistened with boiling water and flavored. CINNAMON ROLLS Roll Parker House roll mixture y-z inch thick. Spread with melted butter and sprinkle liberally with mixture of 5 parts sugar to 1 part ground cinnamon. Roll as a jelly roll. Cut in %-inch slices. Put closely into buttered tin, cut side up. Let rise and bake m a moderate oven 35 minutes SWEDISH TEA RINGS Use the recipe for Parker House rolls, with the addition of Vz egg. When light, put onto an unfloured board and roll as thinly as possible in rectangular shape. Spread with melted butter and sprinkle with chopped, blanched almonds or cin- namon. Roll like a jelly roll, cut a small piece from each end and join the ends to form a ring. Place on a buttered bakinj? sheet and make cuts 1 inch apart across the roll with scissors, extending almost to the inside. Turn each piece to have the cut side up. Let rise and bake in a moderately hot oven. SALAD OR Dl.WER ROLLS- Use the .same ingredients as for Parker House rolls. Shape in small biscuits, place in rows on a floured board, cover with a clotli and let rise until very light. Flour the handle of a wooden spoon and make a deep crease in the middle of each roll, take up and press the edges together. Place closely in a buttered tin, cover, let rise and bake 12 to 15 minutes in a hot oven. From this same mixture, crescents, braids, twists, bowknots, clover leaves or shamrock, and other fancy shapes may be made. Crescents. — When the dough is light, roll in a sheet "i^s inch thick and cut in strips about 4 inches wide; cut these in BREAD 109 sharp pointed triangles, then, commencing at the base, roll them up, bringing the ends toward each other, Iceeping the point in the middle of the roll to give the shape of a crescent. Place them on baking tins some distance apart. When light, bake 15 to 20 minutes in a hot oven. Braids. — When the dough is light, roll in a sheet Vt inch thick, cut in strips % inch wide, then braid them in 3 or 4 strands, having the braids wider in the center than at the ends. Let rise and bake. Clover Leaves or Shamrocks. — Oil a muffin tin. Take small bits of dough, knead until smooth, shape in balls and fit 3 into each tin. Let rise and bake. BRRAD STICKS Use the same ingredients as for Parker House rolls, vvith the addition of % egg white. When ready to shape, form in small balls, then roll on an unfloured board with the hands until strips are formed uniform in size and the shape of a thick lead pencil. Place on a baking sheet some distance apart or in a tin designed for the purpose. When light, bake in a hot oven, reducing the heat that the sticks may be crisp and dry. For Salad Sticks. — Additional salt may be added to the dough and the sticks sprinkled with salt before baking. ZWIEBACH Use the recipe for Parker House rolls, with the additioa of 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 egg. Scald the milk and when lukewarm add the yeast. As soon as the yeast is dissolved, add the salt and 1/2 cupful of flour. Cover and let rise until light, then add the sugar, the butter and the unbeaten eggs, with flour enough to handle. Knead, shape and place in tin. Let rise and bake in a hot oven about 30 to 40 minutes. When cold, cut in slices about Mi incb thick and dry in a slow oven until delicately browned. 1 1 PRACTICAL COOKERY COFPEB BRBAD 1 4 tbsp. butter 1 yeast cake j c. sugar 1 c. milk 1 eg-g 1 c. liquid conee j c. currants Flour Nutmeg Cinnamon Make a drop batter of the yeast, milk, coSee and flour. Let rise, then add all the other ingredients, knead, shape in a loaf. let rise and bake in a moderate oven. coffee: bread ii 1 c. scalded milk \ *®P- „1^15_,, 1 c. strong coffee ni^r,^^n^ i c. sugar Cinnamon I c buttpr Nutmeg 1 egg 1 yeast cake (compressed) Flour Scald milk and add to coSee. When lukewarm, add yeast, salt and flour enough to make a drop batter. Let rise, thea add sugar, butter, egg, cinnamon, nutmeg and currants, and enough flour to make a soft dough. Put into an oiled tin. Let rise and bake in a hot oven. NOT BREAD i cake compressed yeast 1 u. chopped nut meats } c. lukewarm water 1 c. entire-Wheat flour 1 c. scalded milk White flour as needed for 1 tbsp. shortening soft dough 2 tbsp. molasses 1 tap. salt Add shortening and molasses to the scalded milk. Cool. When lukewarm, add nut meats, yeast and flour. Beat thor- oughly. Put into an oiled tin. Let rise and bake in a moder- ate oven 40 minutes. POTATO BISCl'ITS 1 c. milk 3 tbsp. lard } c sugar } c. mashed potato 1 egg i cake of compressed yeast 5 tsp. salt About 3 c. flour Scald the milk and pour it over the sugar and the lard. Put the potatoes into a bowl with a little flour. Add the scald- BREAD 111 (ed milk slowly, making a thin, smooth paste. Add the yolks of the eggs and beat thoroughly, then add the well beaten whites, 'and last the yeast cake softened in V4 cupful of warm water Set in a warm place until light, add the remaining flour. Mix into a soft, smooth dough and let rise again. Roll Vi inch jthick, cut and lay one biscuit on top of the other. Let rise until light and bake in a hot oven about 15 minutes. RAISBD DOUGHNUTS . S c. Parker Hcmse roll 1 egg mixture Cinnamon 1 tbsp. butter Xutmeg } c. sugar Add all ingredients to Parker House roll mixture and mix thoroughly. Let rise until double in bulk, roll in thin sheet and cut in rings. Let rise, fry and drain. USES FOR ST.VLK BRK.4.D All pieces of bread should be saved and utilized. Keep pieces of stale bread by themselves in a jar or covered bowl. Stale bread, it heated in a closely covered pan, becomes some- what like fresh bread. Large pieces are best for toast, which may be made and used In a variety of ways. Smaller pieces may be used for bread crumbs. liKE.VD CRUMnS Prepare by drying stale bread, crushing and sifting. The erushing may be done by grinding m a food cutter or rolling .on a bread board. The sifting may be done with a pur#e Btrainer. The sifted crumbs may be used for preparing scal- loped dishes, breading fried food or for thickening BUTTERED CRUMBS 6 tbsp st.ile soft crumbs 2 tbsp butter Malt butter and stir in crumbs CROUTONS 1 slice of bread Vi inch 1 tsp butter thick Trim crusts from bread Spread with butter Cut in 112 PRACTICAL COOKERY Strips % inch wide. Cut strips in pieces, terming Vi-inch cubes. Brown in oven. nOCK ALMONDS Prepare slice ol bread as for croutons. Cut in sliape of almonds and brown in oven. CRISI' CRACKERS Spread cracliers thinly with butter, allowing one-fourth teaspoon butter to each cracker; put into pan and bake until delicately browned. IMl'KHIAL STICKS IN RL\US Cut stale bread in %-inch slices, remove the crusts, spread thinly with butter, and cut the slices in 14 -inch strips and rings. Put into a tin and bake until delicately browned. Serve with soups, arranging 3 sticks in each ring. CRVST.A.DES Cut a loaf of bread in slices 2 inches thick. Remove the crusts and cut the slices in two, diagonally or crosswise. Cut out the inside portion carefully with a small pointed knife, .leaving the sides and the bottom % inch thick. Fry; or butter the top and sides, inside and out, place on a tin and brown delicately in the oven. (The butter should be creamed before spreading.) One loaf cf bread will make S medium-sized or 6 large crustades. These are used as cases in which to serve creamed vegetables, fish or meats. These should be dipped quickly in boiling salted water before filling. DRY TOAST Cut stale bread in %- to %-inch slices. The crust may be removed if desired. Put the slices in a wire toaster and place over a clear fire to dry, holding some distance from the eoals. Turu and dry the other side. Hold nearer the coals and color a golden brown on each side. Bread may be dried BREAD 113 MILK TOAST 2 c. white sauce for cream 6 slices dry toast soups Dip the slices of toast separately into the sauce, place on a serving dish and pour the remaining sauce over all. The flour may be omitted and the scalded milk to which the butter and the salt have been added poured over the dry toast. In either ease, cream may be substituted for the milk and the butter omitted. FRENCH TOAST 2 eggrs 6 slices bread 1 c. milk i tsp. salt Beat the eggs slightly, add the milk and the salt. Dip the bread in and out of the mixture auioklv. Saut6. 114 PRACnCAX, COOKERY CAKES There are two general classes of cakes, those which cafn.- tain butter, or butter substitutes, and those which are made without fat. In cake making, the best ingredients, accurately meas- ured, are essential. Esgs must be fresh, butter sweet, sugar fine grained, and flour with a large starch content. Eggs and butter that are not fresh give objoctionable flavors; coarse grained sugar gives a coarse texturo J.:id a hard crust; and flour with a large gluten content make3 a less tender cake. GENERAL. RULES FOR MIXING For cakes with butter, measure the ingredients, sifting the flour before measuring. Sift the leavening agent and the spices, if used, in the flour Sepai-ate the white from the yolks of the eggs unless the reoipo specifically directs other- wise. Cream the butter in a to'nl. using a. wooden spoon, add the sugar gradually and mix thoroughly, partly dissolving the sugar. Add the beaten yolks of the eggs to the butter and sugar mixture. Add the llqaid and the flour alternately, fold in the beaten whites of the eggs and add flavoring. If nuts or fruit arc used, they should be iloured to prevent settling to the bottom and r.dded before the ess whites. For cakes without butter, ceparate the whites from the yolks of the c.2;gc. Beat the yolks until thick and lemon colored and add the sugar gradually Add the flavoring and the beaten whites, and lastly add the fioviT, cutting or folding it into the mixture. TO OIL. AND FILL. TINS Cake tins should be oiled on both bottom and sides with softened sweet fat. For fruit cakes, pound cakes or other loaf cakes, it is well to line the tin with oiled paper. Fill the tins about two thirds full of the cake mixture, spreading evenly toward the corners and edges. TO BAKE Loaf cakes require an oven hot enough to turn a little CAKES 116 ftour light brown in four minutes, or a moderate oven. Layer or small cakes should be baked in an oven that is a little hot- ter, while sponge or angel cakes require an oven that is not so hot, especially during the first part of the baking process. The time of the baking may be divided into quarters. During the first quarter, the cake should begin to rise; second quarter, continue rising and begin to brown; third quarter, continue browning; and fourth quarter, finish baking and shrink from the tin. It may be moved during the first quarter or during the last quarter; never during the second or third quarters. Loaf cakes require from 45 to 60 minutes. Layer eakes require from 20 to 30 minutes. STANDARDIZATION QP OVEIN TEMPERATURES (MAT B. VAN ARSDALE, TEACHERS COLLEGB) 250°-350° F. Slow Moderate Hot or S Quick I Very Hot 1210-177'' C. 350°-400° 177°-204"' F. C. 400''-450° 204°-232° F. C. 450°-550° 232''-288° F. C. ( GENERAL SUGGESTIONS When done, the cake will spring back lightly when touched with the finger and will shrink from the edge of the tin. Another test is to insert a toothpick into the center and if it comes out clean the cake is done. A cake should be baked alone in an oven and should be elosely watched. If the oven door is carefully opened and closed, the cake will hot fall. Place the cake as near the center of the oven as possible. If the oven is too slow, the cake often rises too much, becoming coarse grained. Cracking on the top may be caused by putting the cake in too hot an oven at first or by having too stiff a rnixture or too deep a pan. TO REMOVE FROM TINS Remove the cake from the tin, as soon as it is taken from tbe oven, by inverting the tin on a wire cake cooler.^ 11« PRACTICAL COOKERY STANDARD OR PLAIN CAKE i c. butter 2 eggs 1 e. sugar 2 c. flour 1 c. milk 4 tsp. baking powder Spk. salt Vanilla Mix as butter cake. Bake in layers or in a loaf. WHITB cake: i c. butter 5 egg whites IJ c. sugar 2S c. pastry flour 1 c. milk or water 4 tsp. baking powder Spk. salt 1 tsp. vanilla Mix as a butter cake. Bake in layers or In a loaf WHITE ALMOND CAKE i c. butter J c. milk 1 c. sugar 15 c. flour 4 egg whites 2 tsp. baking powder i tsp. almond flavoring Mix as a butter cake. Bake in layers or in a loaf. YELLOW CAKE i c. butter h c. milk 1 c. sugar 1% c. flour 2 eggs 2J tsp. baking powder Spk. salt 1 tsp. vanilla Mix as a butter cake. Bake in layers or in a loaf. GOLD CAKE I c butter 2i c. flour 1} c. sugar i c. milk 4 egg yolks 5 tsp. mace 1 whole egg 2 tsp. baking powder Mix as a butter cake. Bake in a loaf. CARAMEL OR BURNT-SUGAR CAKE 1 c. susar 1 tbsp. caramelized sugar } c. butter IJ c. flour 1 egg 15 tsp. baking powder i c. water i tsp. vanilla Dissolve caramelized sugar in the water and mix as a butter cake. Bake in a loaf and ice with burnt-sugar icing. CAKES 117 chocolate: cakb i c. butter Ij i:. flour 1 c. sugar i tsp. cinnamon 2 eees i tsp. vanilla i c. milk 1 sq. chocolate 2 tsp. baking powder Mix as a butter cake. Melt chocolate over hot water and a(M to creamed butter and sugar. Bake in a loaf or in layers. BOSTON fudge: cake: 5 c. butter I c. sour milk 2 c. brown sugar J c. water 2 oz. chocolate 2i c. flour 2 eggs 1 tsp. soda Mix as chocolate cake and bake in layers. Put browH sugar filling between and chocolate icing on top and sides. ITALIAN cake: M u. butter J tsp. salt 1 c. sugar 13 c. flour 2 eggs i p. chopped raisins 1 c. cold, strong coffee i c. chopj;>ed walnuts } tsp. vanilla 13 tsp. baking powder Mix as a butter cake. Bake in a loaf. Ice with mocha icing. SPICE cake: I } c. butter s tsp. soda 9 c. brown sugar 5 tsp. cinnamon 2 yolks or 1 egg } tsp. cloves i c. sour milk J tsp. allspice i c. raisins, chopped 1| c. flour J o. currants Mix as a butter cake. Bake in a loaf. spice: cake: ii 1 c. brown sagar 1 tsp. cinnamon 1 t. raisins 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 c. sour cream or 3 tsp. cloves 1 c. sour milk and 4 tbap. 1 tsp. soda melted butter 1 tsp. baking powder 1 egg 1 tsp. salt 2 c. flour Citron llg PRACTICAL COOKERY Sift dry ingredients together. Add other ingredients. Beat well and balie 40 minutes in a moderate oven. COFFEE CAKE 1 c. butter 1 tsp. allspice 2 c. sugar 1 tsp. cloves 5 egrgs 3i c. flour 1 c. black coffee 1 lb. raisins 1 tsp. soda 1 lb. currants 1 tsp. cinnamon Mix as a butter cake. Balie in two loaves. WHITE CUP CAKES } c. butter I c. milk S c. sugar 1% c. flour a egg whites 2 tsp. baking powder i tsp. vanilla Mix as a butter cake. Bake in muffin tins. Makes 16 •mall cakes. CURRANT CUP CAKES } c. butter 3 tsp. baking powder J c. light brown sugar IJ c. flour 1 egg i c. currants i c. milk l/jix as a butter cake. Bake in mufiin tins. FRUIT CAKE 1 lb butter 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 lb. sugar 1 tsp. allspice 1 lb. flour I tsp. cloves 10 eggs 1 tsp. cinnamon U nas. currants i tsp. mace 1} lbs raisins 1 orange, rind and Juice 3 lb citron 1 lemon, rind and Juice Cream the butter; add sugar and cream together; ad-d beaten eggs. Sift all dry ingredients together and add to butter mixture. Beat thoroughly. Wash and dry currants and raisins. Cut raisins and citron in small pieces, then add them to batter. Lastly, add orange and lemon juice and rind. Pour into oiled cake tin and steam 2 Vi or 3 hours. Then 'bake 20 or 30 minutes. Remove from tin when cool and wrap in paraffin paper. Keep in stone crock. CAKES 1 1 9 JAM CAKE 1 c. sugar 1 tsp bsiklnir powder 1 c. butter 1 c. Jam or jelly 2 c. flour (more with jelly) i tsp. nutmeg 3 eggs i tsp. cinnamon % c. sour milk i tsp. cloves 1 tsp. soda i tsp. allspice Cream sugar and butter. Add 1 egg at a time, then add the other ingredients and stir well. If apple sauce is used in- stead of jam, use 1 % teaspoonfuls of soda. SPONGES CAKE I 3 eggs S c. flour i c. sugar I tsp. flavoring 4 tsp. water Mix and balie as a cake without butter. sponge: cake: ii 4 eggs % 0. boiling water 1 c. granulated sugar 1 tsp. baking powder Rind of 1 lemon Spk. salt 2 c. flour Beat Whites dry and fold in beaten yolks. Mix sugar, flour and baking powder, adding to the first mixture alternately with the water and extract. Bake in an oiled tin in a moder- ate oven until firm in the center. white: sponge: cake: or ange:l food 1 V. egg whites (8 to 10) I tsp. cream of tartar 1 c. sugar i tsp. vanilla I c. flour Spk. salt Beat egg whites to a froth, then add cream of tartar and continue beating until stiff. Sift sugar and flour each 4 times Beat in sugar gradually. Fold In flour, salt and vanilla. Bake in clean tin in a slow oven about 50 minutes. te:a cake: t c sugar 3 c. flour i c. butter 3 tsp. baking powder 1 large egg (rounding) I c. Bweet milk 1 tsp. vanilla ,1 pinch of soda In floi»r ] 20 PRACTICAL COOKERY Mix as a butter cake. Spread melted butter over the top and sprinkle sugar and cinnamon to taste. Bake in quick oven for 10 minutes, then reduce heat and finish baking. Should be about 1 'A inches thick when done. COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES 121 COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES COOKIES i e. butter 2 eggs I c. sugar 2 tsp. baking powder } c. milk Flour to make a soft dough } tsp. flavoring Mix as a butter cake, sifting the baking powder with the first half cupful of flour added. Roll very thin, cut, place on buttered baking sheet and bake in hot oven. Makes 26 cookies 2''x3". CREAM COOKIES ly 1 2 4 1 c. butter c. sugar eggs c. sour cream 1 tsp. 1 tsp. J tsp. Flour soda nutmeg vanilla to make a soft dough Mix as a butter cake. Roll, cut and bake in a moderate- hot oven. JEI.1,Y JUMBLES i 1 1 1 c. butter c. sugax egg tsp. soda i c. sour milk 3 tsp. salt Flour Currant jelly Mix as a butter cake. Roll and cut, v ising a round cutter. On the centers of half of the pieces put currant jelly. Using a thimble, make three small openings in remaining pieces and put pieces together. Press edges slightly and bake in a rath- er hot oven, that jumbles may keep in good shape. MOLASSES COOKIES h c molasses i tsp. soda } c. sugar i tsp. salt U tbsp. butter i tsp. cloves IJ tbsp. lard i tsp. cinnamon 1 tbsp. milk i tst). nutmeg 2 c. flour Cream the butter and sugar. Add melted shortening and milk. Sift the dry ingredients together and stir into the first mixtnre. Roll, cut and bake in a moderate oven. Yields 4 dozen small cookies. 122 PRACTICAL COOKERY RUSSIAN ROCKS i c. fat 1 tap. soda 1 c. brown sugar i tsp. each of nutmeg i c. molasses cinnamon, and allspice 1 egg i c. chopped jaisins 1 c. sour milk 8 c. chopped nuts Flour to make a very thick drop batter Mix £3 for cake adding floured raisins and nuts at the last. Drop by spoonfuls on oiled tins. Bake in moderate oven. OATMEAI. COOKIES- S c. rolled oats 5 tbsp. milk 8 c. flour 1 tsp. cinnamon i c. sugar 1 c. raisins 2 tsp. soda 1 c. nuts 2 eggs 1 c. butter, melted Dissolve soda In milk. Beat eggs separately, adding yolks to milk. Mix flour, oatmeal and sugar. Drop by teaspoon- tuls, or roll in sm^ll balls, and place far apart In tin. Bake ki a moderate even. Yields six dozen cookies. PE^ANUT COOKIES 1 tbsp, butter ) tsp. salt 4 tbsp. sugar i c. flour 1 egg 2 tbsp. milk 1 tsp. baking powder i c. finely chopped 1 tsp. lemon juice peanuts Mix as a butter cake. Add peanuts and lemon juice and mix well. Drop from teaspoon onto oiled baking sheet 2 inches apart and place V^ peanut on top of each. Bake in moderate oven. Yields one and one half dozen cookies. PECAN NUT WAFERS 2 eggs } tsp. salt I c brown sugar J tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. va.nllla 1 c. pecan nuts '8 tbsp. flour Mix as cake. Add nuts, place In small teaspoon- fula on oiled sheet far apart. Bake in hot oven about 4 or 5 minutes. Remove from sheet immediately while still warm. Mey be garnished with whole nut. COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES 123 HERMITS 2i tbsp. butter 2 tsp. baking powder i c. sugar 1 c. flour 1 egg 2 tbsp. milk i tsp. cinnamon 4 English walnuts i tsp. cloves } c. seeded raisins Mix as a butter cake Drop from teaspoon onto oiled baking sheet 2 inches apart. Bake 20 minutes in moderate oven. BATH BUNS I c. butter 3 tsp. baking powder IJ i;. sugar V4 o. candled lemon peel 8 eggs 3 o. flour 1 c. milk Mix as a butter cake. Put into hot muffin tins. Sprinkle top lightly with granulated sugar and bake 20 to 25 minutes. Raisins, nuts or citron may be used in place of lemon peel. GOLDBIV GIIVGER DROPS i c. molasses 1 egg J c. brown sugar 1 tsp. cinnamon i c. butter } tsp. cloves 1 tsp. soda 1 tbsp. ginger i tsp. salt J c. boiling water li c. flour Mix as a butter cake. Bake In mulfin tins and ice with chocolate or boiledicing. LADVFINGISRS S egg whites 2 egg yolks M c. powdered sugar la c. flour J tsp vanilla % tsp. salt Beat yolks until thick and lemon colored Beat whites until stiff and dry, add sugar to whites gradually, beating constantly Combine yolks with whites. Fold in flour and salt sifted together, and add vanilla. Shape from spoon in strips % ineh wide and 4 inches long, on ungrea&sd paper. Bake in a slow oven Take from paper immediately after re- moval from oven. 124 PRACTICAL COOKBRT CREAM P1IPFS i c. water i c. flour ) c. butter 2 egres Put butter and water Into saucepan and place over heat. As soon as boiling point is reached, add flour all at once and stir vigorously until the mixture cleaves from the pan. Re- move from fire, cool slightly and add unbeaten eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. Drop by spoonfuls onto oiled sheet 1% inches apart. Shape them as round as possible, having them piled slightly in the center. Bake until thoroughly set (about 30 minutes) in a hot oven, reducing the heat after the pufts have risen well, and con- tinue to bake until puffs are dry. Make a cut in the top of each with a sharp knife and flU with cream filling. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. DATE CAKES 2i c. oatmeal 1 tsp. soda 2i c. white flour 1 c. butter i c. water 1 c. brown su^ar Cream butter and sugar. Add soda and water, then oat- meal and flour. Roll thin and spread with date paste. Cover with another layer and cut in strips (4 inches tty 1 inch). Bake. This recipe makes 50 cakes. COCOANUT PDFFS 3 egg whites beaten stiff 2 c. shredded cocoanut 2i tsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. vanilla 1 c. granulated sugar Mix cornstarch and sugar. Add to stiffly beaten egg whites, beating in gradually. Cook in a double boiler until thick around edges. Remove from fire, add cocoanut and vanilla. Drop by spoonfuls on an oiled tin. Bake in a slow oven until delicate brown. Recipe makes thirty MARGVERITES 1 c. sugar 1 K. nuts or raisins, or 1 egg white raisins and nuts mtK«d i c. water 30 saltinea COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES 125 Make a boiled Icing and, when nearly stiff, add chopped nuts. Spread thickly on saltines. Place on baking sheets In slow oven and brown delicately. Shredded cococanut or marsh- mallows may be substituted tor all or a part of the nuts. A.LMO.VD MACAROONS 3 eggr whites 3 lb. powdered susar I lb. almond paste Beat the eggs and mix with the almond paste. When smooth add sugar and beat thoroughly. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto slightly oiled paper; bake in a moderate oven 15 minutes. Take from oven and place the paper for a moment on a damp towel; then remove macaroons with a knife. COCO.^NUT MACAROONS 5 egg whites li c. shredded cocoanut i lb. powdered sugar Add sugar to beaten egg whites; add cocoanut, stirring as little as possible. Bake as almond macaroons. CORNFLAKC KISSBS 1 c. sugar 1 c. shredded cocoanut or 2 c. cornflakes J c. cocoanut and i c. 1 tsp. vanilla English walnuts 2 egg whites Beat egg whites stiff. Add sugar gradually, beating well. Fold in cocoanut, cornflakes and vanilla. Drop by spoonfuls on an oiled tin. Bake in a slow oven. CHOCOLATE MACAROONS 1 c. bread crumbs (soft) » tsp. cinnamon 3J tbsp. chocolate 1 tsp. vanilla i c. sugar 1 egg white Beat egg white until stiff and dry. Add sugar and con- tinue beating. Melt chocolate and mix with bread crumbs, cinnamon and vanilla. Fold in egg white and drop from a teaspoon onto oiled baking sheet or paper. Bake in very slow oven until dry, 20 or 30 minutes. 126 PRACTICAL COOKERY GLUTEN WAFERS i c. cream Gluten flour to roll In a i tsp. salt thin sheet Add salt to cream and mix In flour gradually. Roll, cut in squares or oblongs. Prick with a fork as for crackers. Bake on an oiled baking sheet until crisp and a delicate brown. Graham or wholewheat flour can be substituted. DOUGHIVUTS (SWEET MILK) 1 egg 1 tsp. salt 2 tbsp. melted butter i tsp. cinnamon 1 c. sugar 4 tsp. baking powder Flour to make a soft dough 1 c. milk Mix as a butter cake. Roll % inch thick and cut. Fry. drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar when partly cool. Yields 65 small doughnuts. DOUGHNUTS (SOUR MILK) 1 c. sugar 1 tsp. soda 2i tbsp. butter Salt 2 eggs Cinnaijion or nutmeg 1 c. sour milk Flour to make a soft dough 1 tsp. baking powder Mix as a butter cake. Roll % inch thick, cut, fry, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar when partly cool. Yields 56 small doughnuts. BOW KNOTS 2 eggs i tsp. mace % c. sugar J tsp. salt I tbsp. thick sweet cream 3 tsp. baking powder l.tbsp. melted butter Flour to make a stiff dough Beat eggs, add sugar, cream and butter. Add flour mixed with other ingredients. Roll, cut in strips, and tie in bow knots. Fry, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar. CRULLERS 6 eggs 6 tbsp. sugar 6 tbsp. melted butter Flour to make a stiff doogh Beat eggs until very light. Add butter, sugar and flour. Beat. Roll very thin and cut In pieces 3 inches long by 2 COOKIES AND SMALL CAKES 127 inches wide. Malie four 1-inch parallel gashes crosswise at equal intervals. Take up by running handle of wooden spoon in and out of gashes. Lower into deep fat, fry, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 128 PRACTICAL COOKERY FILLINGS AND ICINGS Simple decorations of cake& add to attractiveness and palatability. Small cakes may be dipped in Icing so that all surfaces are- covered. Iced cakes may be decorated in designs by the use of a pastry bag and tube. GENERAL DIRECTIONS Trim the cake, if necessary, to make it smooth and sym- metrical. The cake may be inverted. Place on a board cover- After all of the layers have been arranged, the top of the cake may be iced. Small cakes, which are to' be dipped, may be turning the board. Let it stand in a warm place until the iciag Is dry. If the cake has been baked in layers, see that the layers fit evenly btfore spreading the filling between them. After all of the layers have been arranged the top of the cake may be iced. Small cakes which are to be dipped may be glazed or brushed with white of egs mixed with a little sugar. Set aside to dry before dipping. Have the icing in a deep bowl. Dip the cakes qne by one, being careful to have the entire surface evenly coated. Cakes may be held on a knitting needle. Place the dipped cakes on a rack to dry. CRBAM FILLING li tbsp. cornstarch } c. sugar 1 c. milk i tap. vanilla 1 egg or 2 egg yolks i tsp. salt Make a sauce with cornstarch and milk. Make a steamed custard with remaining ingredients, using the sauce as the liquid. BROWN SUGAR FILLING 2 c. brown sugar 2 tbsp. butter i c. milk i 0. nuts Boil sugar, milk and butter to the soft-ball stage. Take from the fire and beat until creamy. Add chopped nuts and mix thoroughly. FILLINGS AND ICINGS 129 CHOCOLATE PILLIIVG IS oz. or sq. chocolate i egg yolk 1 c. powdered sugar J tsp. vanilla 3 tbsp. milk Melt chocolate over hot water. Add the sugar and the milk. Add the beaten yolk and cook over hot water until thick and creamy, stirring constantly. Cool slightly and add Tanilla just before spreading. DATE PA^TE 1 c. dates 3 tbsp. milk i c. water 1 0. sugar 1 tbsp. lemon Juice Wash and stone dates and cut in pieces. Mix ingredients and cook to a paste. FIG. PASTE Make as date paste, using figs in place of dates. BOILED ICING I c. sugar i c. water 1 egg white 5 tsp. Havering Boll sugar and water to the soft-ball stage or until tt spins a thread. Pour in a fine stream onto the edge of stiffly beaten egg whites, beating constantly to incorporate syrup with white of egg. Add flavoring. Beat until it is thick enough to spread. BVRNT-SVGAR ICING Add 2 teaspoonfuls of caramel syrup to the sugar and water in boiled icing. CARAMEL NUT ICING Add V2 cupful of chopped nuts to burnt-sugar icing just before spreading. CARAMEL ICING i c. milU i c. sugar caramelized, or IJ c. sugar 1 c. caramel syrup 1 tsp. vanilla 1 tbsp. butter Cook milk and 1 % cupfuls of sugar together. When boiling rapidly add hot caramelized sugar. Cook mixture to _9 110 PKACTICAL COOKERY the soft-ball stage. Remove from heat, add butter and ♦aaiMa, cool and beat until creamy and thick enough to spread. CHOCOLATE ICING I • 1 sq. chocolate 1 tbsp. butter 6 tbsp. sugar 1 tbsp. cream or oillk Heat chocolate and sugar with a little water until melted and add butter and milk or cream. Beat until thick enough to spread. chocolate; icing ii 1 sq. or oz. chocolate 5 tbsp. boiling water Spk. salt .A.bout 3 c. powdered sugar 1 tsp. vanilla Melt chocolate over hot water. Add water, salt and vanilla; when smooth, add sugar and beat until very glossy. Add sugar until stiff enough to spread. CRBAM ICING } c. butter 2 tbsp. milk 1 c. powdered sugar Flavoring Cream butter, add sugar and milk gradually and beat until soft and creamy. Add flavoring and sprinkle with chopped nuts, if desired. lUOCHA ICING 1 c. powdered sugar 1 tsp. cocoa 2 tbsp. butter About 2 tbsp. cold, stroar coffee Cream the butter, add sugar and cocoa gradually and b^at in the coffee a little at a time until the mixture is smooth, creamy and thick enough to spread. Q.V1CK ICING 1 c. powdered sugar 1 tbsp. lemon juice 1 tbsp. boiling water Mix ingredients and beat thoroughly until thick enough to spread. FILLINGS AND ICINGS 131 POWDERED SUG/VR ICING t tbsp. cold water and 1 1 tbsp. orangre Juice with tbsp. melted chocolate grated orange rind Or 1 tbsp. cold water and Or 2 tbsp. cold water. I 1 tbsp. lemon Juice with tsp. cocoa, and J tsp. grated lemon rind vanilla Or 1 tbsp. cold water and One cupful of powdered sugar and 2 tablespoontuls of butler creamed together forms the basis of this icing, with any of th€ above combinations added slowly, the whole being beaten to a smooth, creamy consistency. ORXAMENTAL, ICING 1 egg white 7 to 11 tbsp. powdered. 1 tsp. acetic acid sugar Beat egg; add half of the sugar. Add acid gradually as mixture thickens. Continue adding sugar by spoonfuls and beating until icing is stiff enough to spread. 132 PKACTICALi COOKERY SALADS Salads are cold foods — cooked or uncooked — served with seasoned dressings. They are made from meat, fish, -vege- tables, fruits, eggs, or any combination of foods having har- monious flavors. The common dressings are French, mayon- naise, cooked and whipped cream. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS Attractiveness of appearance must be particutarly sought for in salads. All fresh vegetables used should be crisp, cold and thoroughly washed. Canned or cold, cooked vege- tables may often be used. They should be in firm, even-sized pieces. Meat for salad should be freed from skin, bone and gristle, and should be diced. Much of the attractiveness of the salad depends on the garnishing and if this is artistically done it increases the palatability of the salad. The garnish should not detract from the main substance. The best effects are produced by a few materials contrasting well in color, or by two or three shades of the same color. Ordinarily the mater- ial used for garnish should be edible, although occasionally the salad may be served in baskets made from the halt skina of small grape fruit, oranges or large lemons; or in apples or cooked beets; or in the boat-like shape of a half cucumber or banana peeling. TO WASH LETTUCE Handle delicately. Remove leaf by leaf from stalk, ex- amining for insects. Pass backwards and forwards through clean water until all sand is removed. Dry by pressing Itghtly between folds of linen or by whirling in a lettuce drier. Put Into cold place until used. Lettuce is best kept in a moist cloth or paper bag placed in the refrigerator. FRBNCH DRESSING } tsp. sugar 5 tbsp. vinegar or lemon 1 tsp. salt Juice J tsp. paprika 10 tb. SANDWICHES Spread thin slices of buttered bread with any cream cheese Spread an equal number of slices with fine-chopped olives and pimentos mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Press together in pairs with a crisp heart leaf of lettuce between each pair. Serve while the lettuce is fresh Cl.lin SAIVDWICHES Arrange lettuce, bacon, tomato and mayonnaise on toast and cover with a second slice of toast Make a second layer of lettuce, sliced chicken, cucumber and mayonnaise. Cover with a third piece of toast and garnish with an olive or pickle. PE.\NUT SANDAVICHES Shell and finely grind peanuts. Mix with salt and salad dressing Spread between thin slices of buttered bread KAISIN SAND>VICHES 1 c raisins .; c. Knglish walnuts i sugar Chop the raisins and stew until soft; add the sugar and cook until the juice is well thickened. Add the chopped nuts and mix well. Spread between thin slices of buttered bread, either brbwn or white. DATE. FIG OR PRESERVED GINGER SANDWICHES I u. dates, figs or pre- I c. English walnut meats, served ginger chopped chopped fine fine I 0. cream 1 tbsp. lemon Juice Mix and spread between thin slices of buttered bread, eitlier brown or white. SANDWICHES 145 CHOCOLATE SANDWICHES Sweetened or unsweetened chocolate may be used, the latter being sweetened to taste by the addition of sugar. Melt the chocolate. Add a small amount of water and cook until smooth and glossy. Add chopped nuts or peanut butter, if de- sired, and spread between thin slices of buttered bread. Lady Angers or other suitable cakes may be used instead of bread. WHIPPED-CREAM SANDWICHES Spread between thin slices of cake a filling made of ^rhipped cream which has been sweetened and flavored. Candied cherries and nuts or nuts alone may be chopped and added to the whipped cream. 146 PRACTICAL COOKERY DKSSEBTS CHOCOLATE BREAD PUUDING h v;. stale bread crumbs 1 egg 1 c. scalded milk Spk. salt J sq. chocolate Few drops vanilla 3 tbsp. sugar i tsp. cinnamon Soak bread in milk. Melt chocolate, add sugar and enough milk taken from bread and milk to make of consistency to pour. Combine bread and milk, chocolate mixture, salt, vanilla and egg, slightly beaten. Turn into buttered pudding dish and bake in moderate oven about 4 minutes. Serve with hard or cream sauce. OnA\GE BRBAU PUDDING i c. stale bread' crumbs ■ i c. orange juice i c- milk 3 tbsp. sugar Grated peel of 1 orange, 1 egg if desired Soak bread in milk. Add orange juice, sugar and egg yolk. Fold ih stiffly beaten white. Bake in individual molds set in hot water. Serve with or without hard sauce. CHOCOLATE CORNSTARCH MOLD 1 c. milk 2 tbsp. cornstarch i sq. chocolate Spk. salt 2 tbsp. sugar J tsp. vanilla Melt chocolate. Add to hot milk and complete as a sauce. Pour into wet- molds. When cold, unmold and serve with cream and sugar or whipped cream. IRISH MOSS JELLY' i c. Irish moss 1 tbsp. lemon or orange 4 figs juice 2 c. boiling water Mi c. sugar Soak, pick over and wash the moss. Cut figs in strips. Add moss and flgs to boiling water. Simmer about 20 minutes, or until thick when dropped on a cold plate. Add lemon juice and sugar. Strain in cold, wet mold. DESSERTS 14T IRISH MOSS nLAXC MA.NGF> J c. Irish moss 13 c. milk Spk. salt % tsp. vanilla Soak moss In cold water abovit 15 minutes. Put into double boiler with milk. Cook until it thickens when dropped onto a cold plate. Add salt, strain and flavor. JUNKET I'UDOING 1 rennin tablet 1 tsp. water 4 c. milk Vanilla I w. sugar Dissolve rennin tablet in the water. Dissolve sugar in milk, add vanilla and heat to body temperature. Add rennin solution, turn into wet mold and allow to remain undisturbed at room temperature until firm. Unmold and serve immediately with sugar and cream. LEMON SOUFFLE 1 egg 1 tbsp. lemon juice 3 tbsp. sugar Beat yolk until thick and lemon colored and add sugar gradually. Add lemon juice. Fold in white of egg, beaten BtiS and dry. Pour into oiled baking dish and bake, set in pan of hot water. CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE Follow directions given under sauces. For flavoring use 2 squares of chocolate and V4 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of milk. LEMON CREAM 1 egg li tbsp. lemon juice 1 tbsp. sugar Spk. salt Beat yolk of egg slightly, add sugar, lemon juice and salt, then cook over hot water until mixture thickens slightly. Fold in stiffly beaten white of egg. Turn into a glass and chill. Serve with lady fingers. 148 practical cookery orange: crbam 1 egg 1 tsp. temon juloe 3 tbsp. -sugar Spk. salt a tbsp. orange juice Prepare as lemon cream. IMPBRIAL PUDDING PART I ) c rice 1 qt. boiling watM- 1 pt. milk PART II i c. cold water i tsp. salt 2 tbsp, gelatin 1 c. sugar } c. hot milk Flavoring - 1 pt. whipped cream Part I. Wash the rice, cook in the boiling water until it boils hard; then drain off the water, add the milk and cook 1 hour in a double boiler. Part II. Swell gelatin in water. Add the hot milk, stratn. add salt and sugar. Stir in the rice. Stir until the mixture thickens. Add flavoring and whipped cream. Pour Into a buttered mold. When cold serve with plain whipped cream or cream colored with fruit juice. steamed tapioca ' 2 tbsp. tapioca 1 egg 1 c. milk Spk. salt 2 tbsp. sugar 10 drops vanilla Put tapioca in cold milk, add sugar and salt and cook I hour in double boiler. Pour over beaten egg. Return to boiler and complete as a steamed custard. CRBAIM TAPIOCA PUDDING 1 egg 6 tbsp. cocoanut 3 tbsp. tapioca 3 tbsp. powdered sugar 1 c. sugar Soak tapioca over night. Cook % hour in water to cover. Add slightly beaten egg yolk, sugar and half the cocoanut. Cook 10 minutes. Pour into dish. Beat egg white stiff, add powdered sugar and pour over top. Sprinkle. remainder at cocoanut over all and set in oven to brown. DEISSBRTS 149 CHOCOLATE TAPIOCA IS c. milk Spk. salt 5 tbsp. minute tapioca 3 sq. choco^ate 5 tbsp. sugar 10 drops vanilla Melt chocolate in double boiler. Scald milk and add to chocolate. Add tapioca, sugar and salt. Cook until gran- ules are clear and milk is absorbed. If more liquid is needed, add by the tablespoonful. Add vanilla. Pour into wet molds. Chill, unmeld and serve with hard sauce. FRUIT TAPIOCA 4 tbsp. pearl tapioca Spk. salt t 0. water 2 c. cooked fruit % v;. sugar Soak tapioca over night in 1 c. cold water. In the morn- ing add the other cupful of cold water and the salt. Cook over airect heat 10 minutes. Put into a double boiler and cook until clear. Add sugar and fruit. Chill and serve with whipped cream. INDIAN PUDDING i c. scalded milk 2 tbsp. molasses 1 tbsp. Indian meal i tsp. salt J u. cold water i tsp. cinnamon 2 tbsp. sugar i tsp. ginger i egg 2 tbsp. milk Mix Indian n>eal with cold water and add to scalded milk. Cook 20 minutes. Add other ingredients except cold milk. Pour into buttered baking dish and bake in moderate oven Vz hour. Pour on 2 tablespoonfuls of milk and bake 2 hours longer, without stirring. LINCOI-N SNOWBALLS 1 c. riCfc 5 or 6 small apples 1 tsp. salt Steam rice until soft. Core arid pare the apples» Hare ready 5 or 6 pieces of cheesecloth about 10 inches square. Dip into hot water and wring. Lay one at a time on a plate and spread with a layer of cooked rice about % inch thick. Place an apple in center, fill center of apple with rice and draw cloth 150 PRACTICAL COOKERY around apple, being careful to cover it with the rice. Tie the cloth rather tight. Place in steamer and cook 20 to 30 min- utes, or until apples are soft. The apples may be steamed 5 or 10 minutes before putting them into the rice. Apricots or peaches may be used. Serve with soft custard or pudding sauce. APPLE PRITTERSs 1% c. flour 2 medlum-siaed sour 1 tbsp. olive oil or melted apples butter % c. milk 1 tsp. salt 1 egg Mix and sift dry ingredients, add milk gradually, then the egg, beaten slightly. Add olive oil or melted butter. Pare, core and cut apples in slices. Dip into batter. Fry, drain and sprinkle with powdered sugar. DUTCH APPLE CAKE - Make as directed for shortcake II. Spread the mixture % inch thick in a shallow baking tin. Wipe, quarter, core and pare 4 sour apples. Cut each quarter into halves lengthwise, place them in parallel rows on the top of the mixture, the sharp edge down. Sprinkle the apples with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed with Vz teaspoonful of cinnamon. Bake in hot oven 25 to 30 minutes, or until the apples are soft. Serve with lemon sauce or whipped cream. RATE ROLLS Roll biscuit dough '/^ inch thick and spread with date paste. Roll as a jelly roll, cut in slices 1 inch thick. Place cut side down in an oiled tin far enough apart to allow them to swell while baking and bake in a hot oven. These may be served as a roll or with a sauce. ,\PPLE ROLL Pare and chop the apples. Roll biscuit, dough in an oblong about V2 inch thick and spread with the apple. Sprinkle the apple with sugar and nutmeg. Roll as a jelly roll, cut In slices 1 inch thick and place cut side down in an oiled tin far DESSERTS 151 enough apart to allow them to swell while baking. Bake in a hot oven and serve with a sauce. BAKSD PKTJIT DUMPLINGS' Make a dough as directed for biscuits, using a little less milk and a little more shortening if desired. Roll M, inch thick. Cut in squares large enough to cover an apple or other fruit. (Large fruit left whole should be previously cooked 5 to 10 minutes.) Place the fruit in the middle of the dough, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg. Moisten the edges of the dough with cold water or milk and fold so that the corners will meet in the center. Press the edges together gently. Place in an oiled tin, adding a small amount of water, and bake in a rather hot oven until the crust and fruit are cooked. Dumplings may also be cooked in a buttered steamer, when a longer time will be required. Serve with a sweet sauce. SHORTCAKE I Add to the ingredients for biscuits 1 to 3 tablespoonfuls of shortening and 1 tablespoonful of sugar. Mix as for biscuits. Divide the dough into 2 equal parts and shape one portion to fit a square or round tin. Brush the top lightly with melted butter. Shape the second portion of dough and place over the first. Bake in hot oven. After baking, separate the layers, put crushed and sweetened fruit on one layer and place the other layer over it. More fruit may be placed on top if de- sired. Serve with plain or whipped cream, added just before serving. The two layers may be baked in separate tins. Any shortcake mixture may be prepared for individual service by shaping with a large biscuit cutter. SHORTCAKB3 II 2 c. flour 4 tsp. baking powder 6 tbsp. butter 1 egg 1 c. milk h tsp. salt Sift salt, baking powder and flour together. Cut shorten- ing into it. Add egg yolk to mixture. Add milk. Fold in stiffly beaten white of egg. Follow directions for baking sJJortcake I. 152 PRACTICAL COOKERY CHARLOTTE RUSSB Line a sherbet glass with lady fingers. Fill with sweet- ened whipped cream and garnish with angelica made into stems and leaves, using candied cherry for flower; with nut meats chopped fine; or with raisins. Or, pin steamed sponge cake together with toothpicks, fin with whipped cream mixed with nut meats and decorate top with strips of cake and candied cherry. Thin cream may be ised, stiffened with gelatin and beaten. CAL.L.AS 3 eggs 1 tsp. baking powder 1 c. sugar 2 tbsp. cold water 1 c. flour Beat eggs slightly, add sugar. Sift baking powder with flour and add to egg and [Bugar mixture. Add water. Bake in thin layers on an oiled baking sheet. When done cut in 4- inch squares, remove from tin and roll each square in the shape of a funnel by bringing the diagonal corners together. Hold in place until cool; fill with sweeteened whipped cream; garnish the center of the cream with a bit of egg yolk and sugar, mixed together to represent a calla lily stamen. ORANGE SNOW 1 egg white 2 tbsp. cruslied Ice % c. orange juice Beat egg until stiff and dry, add orange juice slowly. Fold in crushed ice and serve at once. APPLE SNOW Wipe, pare, core and quarter 1 sour apple. Steam until soft and rub through' a sieve. There should be % cupful of apple pulp. Beat white of 1 egg- until stiff, using a silver fork. Sweeten apple pulp to taste and add gradually to beaten white of egg; continue the beating. Pile lightly on glass serving dish, chill and serve with cream or steamed custard. PEACH SNOW^ Wipe and remove skin from 1 peach. Force pulp through a sieve and drain, if there is much juice. Beat the white ot DESSERTS 158 1 egg until stiff, using a silver fork. Add peach pulp gradual- ly while continuing the beating. Sweeten with powdered su- gar, pile on glass dish, chill and serve with steamed custard or cream. SUET PUDDING 1 i c. suei 1 c. sour mtlk i c. molasses 3 tsp. soda Spk. salt I c. flour i tsp. cinnamon 3 c. raisins 5 tsp. cloves i c. currants Chop suet fine. Wash and dry currants and raisins. Cut raisins. Sprinkle suet, raisins and currants with flour. Mix milk and molasses. To it add fruit and suet. Mix and sift all dry ingredients and add to milk mixture. Pour into oiled mold and steam 3 hours. Serve hot with hard sauce. SUET PUDDING II 1 c. finely chopped suet IJ tsp. salt 1 <.-. molasses I tsp. ginger 1 c. milk 1 tsp. cloves i c. flour .; tsp. nutmeg 1 tsp. soda 1 tsp. cinnamon Mix and sift dry ingredients. Add molasses and milk to suet. Combiae mixtures. Turn into oiled mold, cover and steam 3 hours. Serve with sterling sauce. Raisins and cur- rants may be added. STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING 1 egg 'i sqs. chocolate 6 tbsp. sugar 6 tbsp. milk Salt 1 e. flour 3 tbsp. melted butter 2 tsp. baking powder Melt chocolate, add butter, sugar, well beaten egg and, alternately, the milk and sifted dry ingredients. Steam one hour in a well oiled mold. WASHINGTON PIE 3 c, sugar 1 tsp. vanilla 1 c. butter i c. milk 2 eggs U c. flour IJ tsp. baking powder 164 PRACTICAL COOKERY Mix as a butter cake. Bake in 2 layers. Put cream filling or jam between layers and sprinkle top with powdered sugar. PORCUPINE PUDDING i c. heavy cream 1 tsp. powdered sugar 4 drops vanilla 8 annonds Whip, sweeten and flavor cream. Blanch almonds, brown in butter and wipe each with soft paper. Pile cream on a dish and garnish with almonds, leaving pointed ends exposed. DATE PUDDING I . h lb. dates 1 lb. nuts 5 egg whites 3 tsp. baking powder 1 c sugar Beat eggs stiff and dry. Mix baking powder with sugar and fold into the egg whites. Stone and chop dates. Shell and chop nuts. Fold into sugar and egg. Bake in an oiled tin 20 to 30 minutes. DATE PUDDING II 9 tbsp. cracker crumbs I lb. dates 2 tbsp. baking powder 6 eggs - 1 lb. unshelled English IJ c. sugar walnuts Beat yolks until light and creamy. Add sugar, chopped nuts, dates and cracker crumbs. Beat whites stiff and to them add the baking powder. Then carefully fold the whites into the other ingredients. Bake in a shallow buttered tin in a very slow oven from 30 to 45 minutes. When done, cut in inch cubes and serve with whipped cream in frapp^ glasses. STEAMED FIG PUDDING - 1 c. dark molasses 1 tsp. soda 1 K. chopped suet 1 c; sour milk 2 c. chopped figs 2 eggs 1 tsp. cinnamon 25 c. flour i tsp. nutmeg Mix together molasses, suet, figs and spices. Add soda and milk. Add eggs, well beaten, and flour gradually. Beat all thoroughly and fill a well oiled mold three-fourths full. Steam two hours. Serve with sterling sauce garnished with whipped cream. DESSERTS 155 8TBA.MEID FRUIT PUDDING i c. butter i tap. salt J c. sugar 2 egg whites 1 c. milk About 2} c. flour, or enougrh 2 tsp. baking powder to make stiff drop batter Mix as a butter cake. Partly fill oiled molds with jelly or preserved fruit. Pour batter on- the fruit and steam % hour. Serve with a pudding sauce. CUSTAEDS Custards are combinations of milk and egg, sweetened and flavored. Because of the protein present, they should be cooked at a low temperature. This is accomplished by steaming or by baking in molds set in pans of water. Custards are classified ac- cording to the method of preparation. There are two kinds, steamed and baked. To combine a steamed custard, scald the milk and pour it over the egg which has been beaten with the sugar and salt. Return mixture to double boiler and stir constantly until the custard will coat a metal spoon. Set in a pan of cold wa- ter to prevent further cooking and, as soon as cool, add the flavoring. To combine a baked custard, beat the egg with the sugar and salt. Add the cold milk and flavoring. Pour into molds, set in pans of water and bake until done. To test a steadied custard, lift the spoon from the mixture. If the spoon is coafed, the custard is done. To test a baked custard, insert a knife. If it comes oat clean, the custard is done. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS The following suggestions will prove helptul in making a steamed custard. Do not mix much sugar with little egg, as It makes yellow threads through the liquid. Do not beat the eggs too light or a porous custard will be formed. Pour the milk over the beaten egg to avoid lumping. To keep a custard smooth and to avoid lumping, stir constantly. If a custard Is 156 PRACTICALi COOKBRT cooked too long it will curdle. A curdled custard may be made smooth by beating with a Dover beater or by pouring the mixture from one dish to another. When a custard is done, remove it from the heat at once to prevent overcooking. A custard should be stirred occasionally while cooling to prevent the formation of a coating. In making custards the following substitutes may be used. Two egg yolks will thicken as much as one egg and will niake a smoother custard. Two egg whites, in place of one egg, makes a white custard. Cornstarch may be substituted for egg, or flour and egg may be used instead of egg alone. Three-fourths tablespoonf ul of cornstarch or one tablespoonful of flour will thicken as much as one egg. To make a thicker custard increase the proportion of egg to milk. To make a custard which is to be used as a sauce decrease the proportion of egg to milk. STBAHESD CUSTARD 1 c. milk Spk. salt 1 egg 10 drops vanilla 2 tbsp. sugar Follow general directions for a steamed custard. STBABfBD CARAHBL CUSTARD 1 c. milk 1 tbsp. sugar 1 egg . 2 tbsp. sugar, caramelhsed, Spk. salt or 1 tbsp. caramel syrvp 10 drops vanilla Dissolve caramelized sugar or caramel syrup in the -milk. Complete as a steamed custard. STElAIHEiD chocolate: CUSTARD i sq. or oz. chocolate 1 tbsp. water 1 c. hot milk 3 tbsp. sugar 1 egg 10 drops vanilla Spk. salt Cook the chocolate with 1 tablespoonful of sugar in the water until glossy. Add the milk. When well mixed complete as a steamed custard. DESSERTS 157 BAKBD CUSTARD 1 u. milk Spk. salt 2 eg-gs 10 drops vanilla 2 tbsp. sugar Follow general directions for a baked custard. BAKED CARAMeL CUSTARD 1 c. milk 1 tbsp. sugar 2 eggs Spk. salt 2 tbsp. caramelized sugar 10 drops vanilla or 1 tbsp. caramel syrup Dissolve caramelized sugar in the milk. If caramelized sugar is used, the milk must be hot. Complete as a baked custard. For variation, spread the caramelized sugar over the in- ner surface of the mold and allow it to harden. Add custard mixture and bake. When vnmolded, the caramel will form a savrte. BAKED CHOCOLATE CUSTARD S sq. or oz. chocolate 4 tbsp. sugar 1 0. hot milk Spk. salt 2 eggs 10 drops vanilla Cook the chocolate with 1 tablespoonful of sugar in the water until glossy. Add the chocolate to the milk. When thoroughly mixed, cool and complete as a baked /custard. GELATIN Gelatin is a substance made from the bones and tendons of animals. It will swell in cold water and, after swelling, will dissolve with heat. This dissolved solution, when added to liquids, will solidify them upon cooling. Prolonged boiling destroys the gelatinizing property of gelatin. When heated to or near the boiling point, a disagreeable odor and flavor are produced. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE USE OF GELATIN Swell tlie gelatin in cold water, then dissolve it either by 158 PRACTICAL COOKERY adding it to the liot liquid, adding ihe hot liquid to it or br placing over hot water. Stir the gelatin until all is dissolved. When partially set, air may be incorporated into a gelatin mixture by beating. This beaten gelatin is improved if the juice of one lemon is added for each quart of liquid. This is known as acidulated gelatin.- To mold gelatin dishes,, dip the mold in cold water, pour the solution into the mold and stand in a cold, level place until firm. To unmold gelatin, run the point of a knife around the edge of the mold, dip in warm water, place inverted serving plate on top, turn both over and lift the mold carefully. To decorate mold, prepare the gelatin solution. Bits of fruit, nuts, hard-cooked eggs, meat or vegetables can be used for decoration. Arrange these on a plate to form a design. Pour a thin layer of gelatin solution into a wet mold. When set, rearrange the design with inverted materials on the layer of gelatin, sticking each bit in place with a drop of the solution. Pour in a little more liquid to set the design. Be careful not to float the design. When a design is to be placed on the sides of the mold, dip the pieces used in decorating in the solution before placing against the sides of the mold. First add a little solution to set the base of the design and then gradually fill the mold. For doable molding in gelatin, select two molds similar in shape, one an inch or more larger than the other. Set the larger mold in a pan of ice and water. Pour in the liquid gelatin until it is about one inch deep. Garnish with a design if desired. When firm, place the smaller mold filled with lce| and water exactly in the center. Pour the remaining liquid gelatin around the small mold. When firm, dip the ice and water from the small mold, fill with lukewarm water and lift it out quickly. Fill the open space with a sponge or bavarian. When firm, covfer, if desired, with a layer of plain gelatin. General proportions used. — One-half cupful of liquid is usually allowed for each individual. Use % box, % ounce or 2 DESSERTS 169 tablespoontuls o( granulated gelatin to 4 cupfuls of water. In hot weather or when fruit Is to be used in the mold, more gelatin, is required, so allow 2 tablespoonfuls of gelatin to 3 cupfuls of liquid. The larger the proportion of gelatin -the sooner it sets. Too much gelatin gives the mixture a disagree- able taste and also makes it tough. IJ tbsp, gelatin i o. lemon juice i c. cold water 1 c. sugar IJ c. boiling' water Swell gelatin with % cupful of cold water and dissolve sugar in lemon juice and remaining water. Combine mixtures. Strain into wet molds and chill until firm, ynmold and serve. ORANGE JELLY li tbsp. gelatin 1 c. orange Juice i c. cold water j c. lemon juice I) c. boiling water } i:. sugar Make as lemon jelly. ORANGE BASKETS WITH JELLY Cut 2 pieces from each orange, leaving what remains in the shape of a basket with a handle, and remove pulp from basket and pieces. Cut edge of basket in points, using scissors, and keep baskets in ice water until ready to serve. Strain juice from pulp and follow recipe for orange jelly. Turn into a cold, wet, shallow dish, chill, cut in cubes and fill baskets. Serve on a bed of crushed ice. COFFEE JELLY li tbsp. gelatin H c. sugar 14 c. cold water 2 c. liquid coffee % c. boiling water Make as lemon jelly. IVORY JBLLY I li tbsp. granulated grelatln i c. sugar } c. cold milk } tsp. salt 2i c. scalded milk 1 tsp. vanilla 160 PRACTICAL COOKERY Swell gelatin in cold milk and dissolve in scalded milk. Add sugar, salt and vanilla. Strain into mold and chill. IVORY JELLY II 14 tbsp. granulated gelatin J c. sugar i c. cold water S tsp. salt 13 c. scalded milk S tsp. vanilla i c. heavy cream Swell gelatin in cold water and dissolve in scalded milh. Add sugar, salt and, when cool, heavy cream and vanilla. Stir o«casionaIly until mixture thickens and mold. LEMON SPONGE OR SNOW PUDDING 14 tbsp. granulated gelatin } c. lemon juice } c. cold water 3 c. sugar li c. boiling water 3 egg whites Prepare as lemon jelly. Cool until it begins to thicken. Beat thoroughly, add stiffly beaten egg whites and beat until it will hold its shape. Pile in dish or mold and serve cold with custard ORANGE SPONGE 1 tbsp. granulated gelatin i c. lemon juice I c. cold water i c. sugar 1 t. boiling water 3 egg whites i c. orange juice Make as lemon sponge. COFFEE SPONGE 1 tbsp. gelatin 2 tbsp. lemon juice } c. cold water 1 i;. strong coffee I c. bojling water 3 egg whites J c. sugar Make as ,lemon sponge. '■■'•' ' ' COCOA CREAM 1 tbsp. cocoa 1 tbsp. granulated gelatin 3 tbsp. sugar '3 c. cbTd water i tsp. salt 3 eggs 1 c. boiling water ' J tsp. vanilla li c. milk' - ' ■ ' ■ -'• t . - Mix cocoa, sugar and salt. Add boiling water gradually. DESSERTS 161 -while stirring constantly. Let boil 1 minute, then add milk aad, as soon as scalded, add slowly to the slightly beaten egg yolks. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens, stirring Qonstantly. Swell gelatin in cold water, add hot mixture and atir until dissolved. Strain, set in pan of ice water, stir oc- casionally and, when quite thick, fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and the vanilla. Mold, chill and serve. STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN IJ 0. heavy cream 12 whole strawberries for i c. sugar decorating IJ c. crushed strawberries } c. boiling water 1 tbsp. gelattn } c. cold water Make as lemon sponge, using the whipped cream in place of the beaten egg whites. ORANGE BAVARIAN IJ c. heavy cream J c. cold, water i c. sugar A few sections of orange IJ c. orange juice and pulp for decorating 1 tbsp. gelatin J c. boiling water Make as strawberry bavarian. GINGER CREAM 13 tbsp. granulated gelatin 1 pt. whipped cream i c. cold water S tsp. salt 1 pt. milk i tbsp. ginger syrup 4 eggs } f. stem ginger, cut fine i u. sugar Make a steamed custard of milk, eggs, sugar and salt. Add ginger and complete as strawberry bavarian. MARSHmALLOW PlIDDING 1 tbsp. granulated gelatin 1 c. sugar 3 u. cold water 3 egg whites 1 c. boiling water 15 tsp. vanilla Make as lemon sponge. Turn into a shallow pan and let stand until thoroughly chilled. Remove from pan and cut into inch cubes. Roll in powdered sugar or powdered macaroons and serve with hot or cold chocolate sauce. —11 163 PRACTICAL COOKERT FBOZEN DESSERTS Frozen desserts are to many the most, acceptable desserts that can be served. With suitable utensils, which are easily obtained, they may be made without more time or effort than many other desserts. The term frozen desserts includes ices. ice creams and frozen puddings. Water ice is fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water and frozen. Granite is water ice frozen with little stirring. It Is rough and icy. Prappe is a water ice frozen to the consistency of a mush^ Sherbet is water ice to which has been added gelatin or beaten egg white. Milk is sometimes used. Plain ice cream is a frozen product made from cream and sugar, with or without flavoring. Fruits or nuts may be added to give variety. A parfait is plain ice cream, flavored as desired, into which whipped cream has been folded before packing. A mousse is a whipped cream, to which sugar and flavor- ing has been added, frozen in a mold. The whip from thin cream may be used and folded into a gelatin mixture. A frozen pudding is a product made from cream or milk, with sugar, eggs, nuts and fruits, highly flavored. See page 163 for syrup proportions. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS To prepare the freezer, scald the can. Fit the parts to- gether to be sure they are in running order. To prepare the pack, break the ice in small, uniform pieces. The finer the ice, the quicker will be the freezing. Al- low 1 part of salt to 3 parts of ice for freezing, 1 part of salt to 4 parts of ice for packin'g frozen mixtures and equal parts of salt and ice for freezing in the mold. Mix the ice and salt thoroughly. DESSERTS 163 To fill the can, fill three-fourths full. Space must be al- lowed for increase in bulk during freezing. If the can is over- crowded, the mixture will have a coarse grain when frozen. To freeze the mixture, pack the freezer around the can tbree-fourths of the way up with ice and salt, keeping can cov- ered. Pour the mixture into the can. Place the cover and finish packing. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large an amount of the mixture as possible to the surface of the can. Never drain off the salt water until the mixture is frozen unless there is a possibility of its getting into the can. The salt water effects the freezing by causing the ice to melt more rapidly. The heat required to melt the ice is drawn from the contents of the can. To pack after freezing, draw off the water. Remove the dasher and pack the mixture solidly with a spoon. Place the cover and cork the opening. Repack in ice and salt, using 1 part of salt to 4 parts of ice. To mold, choose a mold with a close-fitting cover. Chill the mold. It may be lined with paraffin paper. Fill the mold to overflowing, to avoid air spaces. Cover and seal the open- ing with a strip of oiled cloth. Pack the mold in ice and salt, using 1 part of salt to 4 parts of ice. If the mixture is to be frozen in the mold, it is necessary to use equal parts of ice and salt. To unmold, wipe the outside of the mold and wrap it for a lew minutes in a cloth wrung out of cool water. Remove the cover and unmold. Turn onto a serving dish. SYRUP 1 -c sugar } c. water Boil rapidly until sugar is dissolved. This makes one cup of Byrjip for use in recipes given below. I.BIMON ICE S c. cold water 5 c. syrup J c. lemon juice Mix, strain and freeze. 164 PRACTICAL COOKERY orange: ice i c. orange Juice I tbsp. lemon Juice i c. water i t. syrup Mix, Strain and freeze. PINEAPPLE ICE 1 c. shredded pineapple li tbsp. lemon Juica I c. cold water 3 c. syrup Mix and freeze. If fresh pineapple is used, add % cupful of syrup to tba pinjeapple and water. PEACH ICE li c. canned peaches 3 tbsp. lemon Juice Zi c. water i c. syrup Rub peaches through sieve and combine with syrup, lemon juice and water. Freeze. GRAPE ICE 1 t. grape Juice 2 tbsp. lemon Juice 1 c. water 3 c. syrup 5 c. orange Mix, strain and freeze. GRAPE FRAPPE 1 c. syrup 1 c. grape juice 1 c. water 2 tbsp. lemon Juice Mix and freeze, using equal parts of ice and salt. PINE.4.PPI,E FRAPPE 1 c. syrup > c. lemon Juice 2 c. shredded pineapple 2 c. water Make as grape frapp6. COFFEE FRAPPE 2 c. cold, strong coffee 5 c. syrup ' Make as grape -frapp^. LEMON SHERBET 1 c. cold water l c. lemon Juice S c. syrup 2 egg whites Mix water, syrup and lemon juice; strain and partially freeze. Beat egg whites stiff, add to partially frozen mixture and fiaish freezing. DESSERTS 165 ORANGK SHEJItBBT I o. orange Juice 3 i;. syrup 1} tbsp. lemon juice 2 egg whites 1 c cold water Make as lemon sherbet. GBAPB SHERBET 1 c. water i c. orange juice J c sugar 2 tbsp. lemon juice 1 c. grape juice 2 egg whites Hake as lemon sherbet. liEMON BULK SHERBET 3 c mflk i c. lemon juice { c. syrup Combine lemon juice and syrup and gradually add the mflk. If added too rapidly or without constant stirring, the mixture will have a curdled appearance. Freeze. ORANGH CREAM SHERBET S c. milk h c. lemon juice 2 o. thin cream 31 u. orange juice 3 o. sugar 2 egg whites Make fruit juice and sugar into a syrup. Cool. Add milk Had cream gradually. Partially freeze. Beat egg whites stiff, add to partially frozen mixture and finish freezing. GRAPE MILK SHERBET Z c. milk i c. syrup J c. grape juice 3 tbsp. lemon juice Make as lemon milk sherbet. PLAIN ICE CREAM 11 c. thin cream h tsp. ^^'lla } c syrup Spk. e^ "^ Mix and freeze. This is improved by This makes the host the last one to be served, which is the usual arrangement. If there are two waitresses, one may begin with the lady on the right of the host and serve to the right, while the second starts with the hostess and serves to the right, ending with the host. Many hostesses prefer to have one waitress serve in suc- cession to the right about the whole taljle, having the second waitress follow immediately after with the next dish to be served. Service should be as prompt as possible, in order that the food of the first served may not become cold before all are served. DETAILED DIRECTIONS FOB SERVING All service is by the waitress Have service plates at each cover If cold, the first course is placed on the table before the guests enter the dining room but soup should be brought in after the guests are seated If fruit is used for the first course and finger bowls are provided, the two dishes should be removed together, the plate with the right hand and the finger bowl with the left one. If only a plate is required for the first course, it should be re- moved with the left hand. 214 THE ETIQUETTE ANP SERVICE OF THE TABLB Service plates should be left on until exchanged for the first hot plate. Place plates containing soup on service plates (left hand, left side). Pass any accompanying dishes (napkin, left hand, left side). Remove soup and service plates together (right hand) and place warm plate for fish (left hand, left side). Pass fish and accompanying dishes in turn (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove fish plate (right hand) and place plate with en- tree upon it (left hand, left side). Remove entree plate (right hand) and place warm dinner plate (left hand, left side). Pass meat, vegetables, and rolls in turn (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove plate for meat course (right hand) and place salad arranged on plate (left hand, left side). Place fork for salad (at right from right), if it was not placed on table when laid or brought in on right hand side of salad plate. Pass crackers or sandwiches (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove salad plate (left hand, left side). Remove bread-and-butter plates, if used. Remove any unused silver (tray). Remove salts and peppers (tray). Crumb the table, using folded napkin and plate or tray (from left side of each guest). Place ice, arranged on plate, (left hand, left side). Place silver for course (at right from right) unless brought in on right hand side of plate with ice. Pass cakes (on napkin, left hand, left side). Remove plate for ice (right hand) and place plate with doily, finger bowl, and fruit knife upon it (left hand, left side). Guest removes finger bowl and doily and places them in front of the cover. FORMAL LUNCHEONS 215 Pass fruit attractively arranged ia dish (on napkin, left hand, left side) . Remove fruit plate (right hand) and place attev-dinner coffee cup directly in front of guest with handle of cup to right and with after-dinner coffee spoon on saucer parallel with handle of- cup (left hand, left side). Pass sugar bowl, with tongs, and cream pitcher on tray (left hand, left side). Few people take cream but it is always offered. Pass bonbons (tray, left hand, left side). Finger bowls are left on the table for use after bonbons are served. After-dinner coffee is very often served in the drawing room, in which case the bonbons are passed with the fruit course. It is possible and often advisable, where time or service is •limited, to simplify the service of a formal dinner. The first course may be followed directly by the meat course, fish and entree being omitted. Service is often further simplified by having the meat and vegetables arranged on the individual plate instead of being passed by the waitress. The salad course is never omitted but only one dessert course need be used, followed by coffee, bonbons and finger bowls in the order named. Service of any course can always be made more rapid by bringing in the food already arranged on the plates or more elegant by having the dishes passed by the waitress. FORMAL LUNCHEONS The menu and service for formal luncheons resembte those for formal dinners so closely that it is unnecessary to give any detailed description. The list of courses is usually somewhat as follows: Fruit or fruit cocktail Soup Fish, poultry or meat with vegetables Salad Dessert Coffee 216 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE The dishes chosen for a luncheon are not "so heavy and rich as those used in the dinner menu and special effort is made to have the food attractively arranged. A bare table with doilies is generally used and the napkins are smaller and folded three- cornered. The soup is served in bouillon cups; coffee is served in after-dinner coffee cups, either in the drawing room or at the table. If served at the table, the dessert plates may be ex- changed for the finger bowl service and coffee placed at the right of the plate, the guest removing the finger bowl with doily and using the plate for bonbons. The Russian style of service is used throughout the meal and the order of service is the same as for the formal dinner.. INFORMAL DIMVEKS Differences 'between Formal and Informal Dinners: — In- formal dinners usually consist of only the following courses: soup, meat with vegetables, salad, dessert, and coffee. Either English or Compromise style of service may he used, although the latter is very generally preferred if there is a waitress. The elaborateness of the menu and service may be varied great- ly according to circumstances. Soup is always served in soup dishes at dinner. It is per- missible to use side dishes for vegetables, which are nev- er seen at a formal dinner. They are brought in on a tray, placed from the left at the left side of the cover below the bread-and-butter plate and removed from the left also. It is permissible at an informal dinner to serve the salad with the meat course, arranged on small plates and placed from the right on the right of the cover. Desserts are less elaborate and more varied. They are often served in small dishes set on des- sert plates, rather than directly on the plate, as is usual at form- al dinners. The nature of the . dessert determines whether it shall be served directly on the plate or not, but the plate is al- ways provided under small dishes, as it is needed for holding cake and to lay the spoon upon when not in use. At informal dinners, coffee is often served in full-sized cups and is usually poured by the hostess at the table. It is n^ WashingiOD Pattern — Wallace Sterling Silver SILVERWARE FOR THE TABLE i^^ Heal „ , ^, OUve Server Cream Ladle Tomato ,;, t. Server Sugar Spoon Lettuce i orl^ Cheese Sener, H.H Butter Pick H Medium Individual ., Sugar Tonga Salad Fork \ Ovster^ForU Washinfton Pattern— Wallace Sterling Silver SILVERWARE FOR THE TABLE INFORMAL DINNERS 217 customary to serve colfee only with the dessert course but it is sometimes offered with both the meat and dessert courses. The coffee service may be placed on a tray and set in front of the hostess, or the coffee pot may be placed on a tile at her right, with sugar bowl and cream pitcher in front of her plate. The cups, each set in its saucer, should be grouped about the coffee pot. A spoon is usually placed across the right side of the saucer, parallel with the handle of the cup. The cups and saucers should not be piled up. If there is not room for all, the waitress should bring others later from a side table. The hostess should ask a guest his preference as to cream and su- gar, which are always put in the cup before pouring in the cof- fee. If there is a waitress, she takes the coffee cups from the hostess and carries them to each place where she places them at the right from the right. The coffee may also be brought in in the cup (tray) and the sugar and cream passed (tray). If fruit is used for dessert, finger bowls should be provid- ed. Order of Service: — At an informal dinner, or any other in- formal meal when guests are present, the hostess generally pre- fers to give precedence to her lady guests who are served in order of age and dignity. A few hostesses insist that all guests shall be served before the family, while the custom of always serving the hostess first is followed in other homes. It is more usual, however, to serve air the women guests, then the hos- tess (unless she is much older than her guests, when she would take precedence), then other ladies of the family in order of age. Gentlemen guests would then be served in order of age or standing, then' men who were members of the family If children are present, they are served next and the host, if serv- ing, will fill his own plate last. Similarly, the hostess will not serve herself ahead of others, or help herself first to any dish she wishes to pass unless it is offered to her by the one sitting next to her. The waitress should observe the proper order of precedence in placing, removing and passing each dish. Service: — For details as to laying the table and duties of the waitress, see material under those headings (pages 204 218 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE to 210) As Stated above, the service may be consid-' erably varied. With each course but the soup, there is choice as to v^hether it shall be served upon the table (English style) or from the side (Russian style). Courses may be added to the customary four mentioned above and some slight contrac- tion may be affected by combining meat and salad courses as previously described. The service napkin may be used, as in the formal service, in bringing in all dishes containing foods to be served, oi- it may be dispensed with except in bringing and passing dishes which contain hot foods, when it is needed to protect the hand. The following simple form of service is suggested as suitable for family service or when a few guests are present. It can be carried out in its entirety only if there is a waitress but it is possible to follow this general type of ser- vice when one of the younger members of the family acts as waitress. Have service plates in place before announcing dinner. Have bread-and-butter plates in place with crisp cracker or bread stick upon each. Butter may be placed on the plates before the meal, if the room is not too warm, or it may be passed by the waitress after the meat course is served. Crack- ers may also be passed by the waitress or omitted, as preferred. Have water glasses filled about two-thirds full Just before the meal and refill from water pitcher on side table. The wa- ter pitcher is best placed upon a small tray or plate, on which there may be a doily. As soon as the family and guests are seated, bring two filled soup plates from pantry, leave one on serving table (right hand) and place the other on service plate (left hand, left side). Bring other soup plate from serving table and place (left hand, left side). Repeat until all are served. Remove soup and service plate together (left hand, left side) Place carving knife and serving silver (right hand, right INFORMAL, DINNERS 219 side) and carving fork (left hand, left side), brought tp table on tray. Place heated dinner plates from left in front of host. Bring in meat or main dish (if in a casserole, remove cover and place on side table until all are served, then recover dish) on napkin and place from left in front of host. Bring in potatoes oT corresponding dish on napkin and place from right to the right of host. Take stand at left of host. Take filled plates from him (left hand) and place before persons to be served (left hand, left side) in proper order of service. Pass gravy, if there is any, with ladle in dish ("on napkin, left hand, left side). Pass second vegetable with serving silver in dish (on nap kin, left hand, left side). Pass bread or rolls (left hand, left side). Each of the foods passed is offered to the guests and fam- ily in the proper order of service, which is observed as well in placing and removing soups, salad, and dessert courses. If a second portion of meat or potato is wished, the wait- ress should take plate (left hand, left side), carry it to left of host where she should hold it at a convenient height and dis- tance for him to refill, and replace it before the person served (left hand, left side). Vegetables and bread should be passed again in proper order. Remove food and dishes for meat course in proper order ( see page 210 ) . Place salad, arranged on plate, (left hand, left side). Saiad or dessert plates may be brought in two at a time and one left on side table to be placed later, as described in plac- ing soup. Pass crackers or sandwiches (left hand, left side). Refill glasses and repass crackers, if needed. Remove salad plates (right hand) and bread-and-butter plates (left hand, left side). Remove salt and pepper sets (tray). 220 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABL.B Remove crumbs from table, using folded napkin and plate or tray (left side). Place dessert plates with dessert arranged upon them and silver for dessert course on right side of plate (left hand, left side). Or, place dessert plates as above but without silver, which is brought in on a tray and laid at right of each person (right hand, right side). Or, place dessert plates empty from left in front of hos- tess. Bring in dessert and place in front of hostess from the left. Stand at left of hostess, take filled plates from her with left hand and place before persons to be served (left hand, left side) in turn, as was done with dinner plates. Pass cake (left hand, left side). Bring in coffee service and place before hostess. Stand at her left, receive each cup as filled on a tray and place in turn at right of persons served (right hand, right side). Or, bring in filled coffee cups on a tray, place at right of each cover (right hand, right side) and pass creain and su- gar on a tray (left hand, left side). FAMILY DINNEB WITHOUT A MAID The English styl« of serving the food from the table is the most practical form of service and the one in common use in families where there is no maid. When a woman has all the work of the house to do, she must consider how she may con- serve her time and strength. The menu for the family dinner, therefore, must not be elaborate and thought must be taken to have everything in readiness before the meal is served, so there will be as little occasion as possible for leaving the table. Even if the food and service are simple, it is of greatest impor- tance that the family table be clean and' dainty in appearance. Plenty of clean linen adds greatly to the appearance of the table. If the problem of laundry is a difficult one, small-sized table-cloths and napkins, table runners, tray cloths and doi- lies may be used. A meal is always more dainty and appetiz- ing If care is taken to avoid putting too much food upon the table at one tjme or piling food upon the plates. Rven with FAMILY DINNER WITHOUT A MAID 221 a very simple meal. It is best to have at least two courses, put- ting the food fof only one course upon the table at a time and removing all the unused food and soiled dishes from one course before bringing on another. The increased attractive- ness of the table fully repays even a very busy housewife for the small amount of extra labor required, or other mexnbers of the family can relieve the person who has prepared the meal of care in serving. Simplifying the Menu: — Two or three courses are usual for a simple family dinner — soup, meat with vegetables, and dessert; or meat with vegetables, salad, and dessert; or meat with vegetables (and with salad served at the same time, if- desired), and dessert. Dishes which require very simple pre- paration or foods such as fruits which can be served uncooked may be used frequently, greatly reducing the time and labor spent in cooking. Eggs and other meat substitutes may and should be freely used in place of meat. Milk forms a ready-to- consume food which is almost always easily obtainable. An abundance of a few wholesome dishes, well served, is always more desirable than a more elaborate menu, poorly served. Sitriplifying the Service: — A good sized serving table or buf- fet is a great convenience and further saving of steps can be ef- fected by having a small serving table, oncastorsandwithseveral shelves, "which may stand at the left of the place occupied by the -mistress of the house. All foods which do not need to be served hot or cold may be placed on the table, if used in the first course, or on the serving table, if used later in the meal. Food on the serving table may be covered with a napkin until the time of service. If a hot beverage is to be served throughout the meal, the cups and saucers, together with cream and sugar, may be placed upon the table by the place of the mistress of the house, as shown in the diagram of the family table. Each cup should be placed in its saucer with the handle toward the person pour- ing. In the case of a large family, it is better to keep at least part of the cups and saucers on the serving table. If the bever- age is not served throughout the meal, the .cups and saucers, 222 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE cream pitcher and sugar bowl should be placed together on tlie serving table until needed. Bread-and-butter plates may be placed when the table is laid and butter may be put upon them just before the meal is served. Slices of bread, arranged on a plate, and butter, cut in squares and placed on a smaller plate, are usually put on the table just before the family is called to the meal. Glasses should be filled alsa immediately before the meal and the water pitch- er may be placed on the side table or on the table near some member of the family, whose duty it-is refill the glasses. All serving silver and the carving knife and fork, if need- ed, should either be placed on the table by the place of the person who is. to use them, or upon the serving table ready for use in the course in which it is needed. Dessert silver may be put upon the table when it is laid, if there is no maid. It is not necessary to exchange the plates for one coarse for those required for the next course, as is done at formal meals so that each person shall not be left without a plate at any time. Service plates can be dispensed with, therefore, and plates can be removed or brought in two at a time, which is not allowable in formal service. The service napkin is used only for assistance in bringing in hot dishes and not for form. Soup may be served in the individual dishes Immediately before the family sits down at the table, since the soup tureen is seldom used now. The heated plates are placed before the master of the house, who serves the meat and potatoes (or cor- responding dishes) upon them and passes them to the other members of the family. The mistress of the house is usually served first, if there are no guests. Other vegetables may be served by the mother or some other member of the family either on the dinner plate or in individual dishes if|desired. Salad and dessert may be served by the mistress of the house, as well as the beverage. It is some- times more convenient to bring in salad or dessert already served and thus decrease the number of dishes which the mis- tress of the house has to serve; or other members of the family 223 THE FAMILY TABLE 224 THE ETIQUETTE AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE may share in the task ot serving. If there are children of re- sponsible age. the work of removing one course and bringing on the next should be done chiefly by them. A large tray saves many steps in arranging and clearing the table; a serving table on castors can easily be wheeled into the pantry or kitchen after the meal. The general rules, given on pages 204 to 210, for laying the table and for placing and removing dishes and food ara followed at family tables. BREAKFAST AND INFORMAL LUNCHEON Breakfast is never a formal meal. Even in households* where service is very elaborate, breakfast is kept a compara- tively simple meal. Special care should be taken to make breakfast as cheerful a meal as possible. There is such ab- solute freedom given to the housekeeper in the choice of dishes to be served for breakfast or luncheon and in their arrange- ment in courses that it is useless to attempt to outline menus for these meals. Breakfast may vary from toast and coffee to a substantial meal of fruit, breakfast cereal, bacon and eggs, muffins, jam, and coffee or cocoa. English or Compromise style is used in serving and the general rule* already outlined (pages 204 to 210) for laying the table and serving are fol- lowed. THE GARNISHING OF FOOD Dainty ways of serving food have a usefulness beyond their aesthetic value. Everyone knows that a feeble appetite is often tempted by a tastefully garnished dish, when the same material carelessly served would seem quite unpalatable. Furthermore, many cheap articles of food and "left-overs," when well seasoned and attractively served, may be just as appetizing as more expensive ones and the garnishing may It- self contain nourishing material. The chief reasons for gar- nishing food are then, to make the dish more attractive to the eye and thus more appetizing, and to add to the food value «3 well as to the appearance of the dish. CARVING 225 The principal points to remember In garnisliing a dish are: the garnish should be simple and not suggestive o£ much unnecessary labor; it must be appropriate to the food served; it must be edible; it must be placed so as not to interfere with the serving of the food. CARVING Suggestions: — Carving, like any other art, requires study, and success is not attained without much practice. Some idea of the relative positions of bones, joints, fat, and tough and tender muscles is the first requisite of good carving. Strength is not required so much as skill, neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner and con- fidence in one's ability are necessary. One should learn to carve without rising. If the chair Of' ftie carver is higher than the ordinary chair, he can carve with less difficulty. Ample space should be allowed" the carver. General Directions: — Take out the skewers and remove the string before placing the meat on the platter. The platter should be large enough to hold the entire piece of meat when carved, and also to avoid any danger of soiling the cloth when carving. It is impossible to carve easily on a small platter. It is sometimes well to have a plate near on which the carver may put stuffing, trimmings, or bones that are not to be served. The platter must be hot, so that the meat will not chill. The carving knife should have a handle easy to grasp and a long, thin, sharp-pointed blade, and should be of appropriate size. Never use a carving knife except for carving. The knife should be examined and sharpened on the steel before it is brought to the table. T'xe carving fork should be strong, with long tines, and a good guard, which should be up while one is carving. Carve the meat neatly and economically. —15 226 THE ETIQUETTB AND SERVICE OF THE TABLE Cut straight, thin slices, always across the grain of the meat. Even the tenderest piece of meat will be tough if cut with the grain — that is, with the length of the fiber. When carving poultry, one may offer each person his choice, or not, as seems best. Keep the meat compact while carving. After all are served the portion on the platter should not be left jagged and rough but should present a neat and attrac- tive appearance. Carving a Fowl: — A fowl should be placed on its back on the platter. Introduce the carving fork firmly across the breastbone, holding the handle in the left hand. With the carving knife in the right hand, cut through the skin between the leg and the body, close to the body. With the knife, pull back the leg and disjoint it from the body. Cut oft the wing. Carve the breast meat in thin slices. Take off the wishbone, inserting the knife just in front of the breastbone, and cutting backward to the joints at the neck. Press the bo,ne backward to the neck and disjoint it at these points. Separate the second joints from the drumsticks. Make an opening just below the "breastbone. This will give an opportunity to remove the stufiSng. INDEX 227 INDEX 158 General Directions for Use of 157 General Proportions Used 158 To Decorate a Mold 158 To Mold 158 To Unmold 1S8 236 INDEX German Brown Broth 9S Glblet: ' Gravy < 39 Sauce : 8t To Clean 78 Gingerbread . . . ■. 102 Glac#, Biscuit 167 Ginger Cream 16,1 Glazed: Nuts and Fruit ».... 32 Sweet Potatoes •. 46 Gluten Wafers 126 Golden Ginger Drops 123 Graham: Bread 103 Bread (Yeast) 107 Muffins 101 Grape Fruit 21 Grape: Catsup 177 Ice 164 Frappg 164 Juice I 172 Juice II 172 Milk Sherbet 165 MoussS 167 Nectar 17 Punch 16 Sherbet 165 Grapes, Tokay, Dipped 32 Gravy: Giblet .-. 39 Pan 39 Griddle Cakes: Buckwheat *9 Sour Milk 99 Hamburg: Baked 73 Steak 72 Hard Sauce 40 Heart, Stuffed 76 Hermits 123 Hoarhound Candy 27 Hollandaise Sauce 39 Hot Slaw 138 Ice: Grape 164 Lemon 163 Orange 164 Peach 164 Pineapple 164 Bee Cream, Definition of 163 Caramel Custard ■ 166 Chocolate 166. Macaroon 166 Plain 165 Plain Custard 166 Strawberry 165 R-lmgs , 128 Boiled 12» INDEX 237 Burnt-Sugar 129 Caramel 129 Caramel Nut , 129 Chocolate I 130 Chocolate II 130 Cream 130 Mocha 130 Ornamental 131 Powdered Sugar , 131 Quick 138 Imperial: •Pudding IM Sticks in Rings 112 Indian: Pudding 149 Sauce 176 Irish Moss: Blanc Mange 14T Jelly 14S Lemonade 17 Ivory Jeaiy I 159 Ivory Jelly II 160 Jam Cake -. 119 Javelle Water i82 Jellied: Chicken 82 Meat Loaf 73 Jelly -. 146 Apple .' 179 Apple Mint 189 Apple Plum- 181 Aspic 75 Crabapple 180 Cranberry and Raisin 180 Coffee 159 General Directions for 178 Irish Moss 146 Ivory I 159 Ivory II 160 Lemon 159 Orange : 159 Pectin Test 179 Quince 181 Small Fruit 180 White Grape and Quince 180 Julienne Soup 93 J^imbles, Jelly 121 Junket: Pudding 147 Whey 19 Kerosene Stoves 9 Kisses 64 Koumiss 16 Lady Fingers i 123 Legumes 44, 47, 51 Lemon: Cream 147 ' Oreams • 32 338 INDEX Pilling 61 Ice 163 Jelly 159 Milk Sherbet 165 Pie 61 Sauce I 40 Sauce II 4P Sherbet 164 Souffle 147 Sponge 160 Sticks 63 lemonade 17 Irish Moss 17 Lentil Loaf 51 Lentils 47 Lettuce: Egg and Radish Salad 136 Salad 135 Salad with Cheese Balls 140 Sandwiches 142 Lima Beans, Buttered '. ■ 51 Lincoln Snow Balls 149 Liver and Bacon 76 Macaroni: And Cheese 88 Boiled , 55 Scalloped with Tomato Sauce 52 Macaroon Ice Cream 166 Macaroons: Almond 125 Chocolate 125 Cocoanut 125 Majestic Pudding 168 Maple: Parfait 166 Mousse 167 Marguerites 124 Marmalade: Apple and Quince 174 Orange 173 Rhubarb 173 Marshmallow: Fudge 29 Pudding , 161 Marshmallows '33 Maryland Chicken 81 Mayonnaise 134 Measurements 12 Meat 70-87 Bouch^es of 73 Breslau of 74-75 Casserole of Rice and 74 Croquettes 74 General Directions for Cooking 70 Jellied Loaf 73 Minced, on Toast 74 Pie .• 73 Souffle 74 Stew with Dumplings 72 INDEX 239 Mei^lngues ,64 Methods of Combining Food Materials : 11 Metliods of Cookery 10-11 Millt: Hot Spiced 18 Toast 113 Mince: Meat 62 Pie 62 Minced Meat on Toast 74 Mint Punch : 17 Mint. Apple Jelly 180 Mints " 31 Mocha Icing ; . . 130 Mock Almonds 112 Molasses Cookies 121 Molasses Taffy ^ 27 Mousse, Definition of 162 Neapolitan Soup 94 Grape 167 Maple . . . : 167 Strawberry -. 167 Mousseline Sauce 40 Muffins Corn Meal 101 Graham 101 Plain 101 Mush, SautSd 55 Mushrooms, Stewed -49 Mustard Pickles 175 Mutton, Curry of 77 Nectar, Fruit 16 Nectar. Grape 17 Nesselrode Pudding 168 Nougat 33 S^uts 44. 53 Chocolate Dipped 32 Glazed 32 Nut: Bread 110; 102 Croquettes 52 I.oaf 52 Pastry Roll , 63 Souffle 52 Oatmeal Cookies 122 Olive Oil Pickles 176 Omelet: Bread, with Jelly 68 Orange 68- Oyster . . .-. 68 Plain 67 To Fold and Turn 68 Onions Stuffed with Pecan Nuts 48 Orange: Baskets with Jelly .....' 159 Bavarian 161 Breakfast 20 Cream 148 Creams 32 Cream Sherbet 165 240 INDBX Curled 21 Filling ■ 63 Ice 164 Jelly 15» Marmalade 173 Omelet 68 Peel. Candied 34 Picnic 21 Sections 21 Sherbet 165 Snow 152 Sponge 160 Tartlets 63 Ornamental Icing .' , 131 Oven Temperatures, Standardization of 115 Oyster; Cocktail 87 Omelet 68 Stew ■ 98 Oysters Fried 87 Scalloped ... 8T Panbroiled: Chops 77 Steak 71 Pan Gravy _ 39 Parfait. Definition of 162 Angel -■ 166 Coffee •. . 167 Maple K6 Parisian Sweets 33 Parker House Rolls 107 Parsley Butter 39 Parsnips, Sauted 47 Paste: Date ■. 129 Fig 129 Pastry 58-63 Plain 59 Puff •. 59 Pea and Peanut Salad 136 Pea and Potato Ball Salad 136 Peach: Ice 4 164 Snow " 1S2 Peaches: , Canned 172 Sweet Pickled 174 Peanut: Brittle 27 Candy 28 Cookies 1 122 Dressing for Salad : 134 Sandwich 144 Soup 95 Peanuts, Salted I •. 52 Peanuts, Salted II 53 Pears: Canned 172 Salad 13S INDEX 241 Sweet Pickled 175 Peas: Split 47 Pecan Nut Wafers 122 Pectin Test 179 Peerless Baked Apples ' 22 Pennucci • 29 Peppers. StufCed .Sweet 50 Pickled Beets 47 Pickles: Cucumber 175 Mustard 175 Olive Oil , 176 Spanish 175 Spiced Apple 174 Sweet Peach 174 Sweet Pear 175 Picnic Orangre ' 21 Pie: Apple 60 Berry 60 Cranberry -. 60 Cream Raisin 61 Custard 61 Lemon 61 Meat 73 Mince 68 Prune 60 Pumpkin 62 Rhubarb 60 Sour Cream 61 Washington 153 Pineapple: Frapp§ 164 Ice 164 Preserved 173 Punch i 17 Planked: Fish 85 Steak , 71 Plum, Apple Jelly 181 Poinsettia Tomato Salad 137 Popovers 98 Porcupine Pudding 154 Pork Roast 77 Potato: Balls- 44 Biscuits 110 Cakes 45 Chips 45 Quirls 46 Roses 45 Salad 136 Potatoes: Baked 45 Baked Sweet 46 Duchess ; 44 Franconia 48 C^rench Fried 45 — J6 242 JKDBSX Glazed Sweet -> ..■ *6 Mashed 44 Riced 44 Smothered 46 Stuffed 45 Poultry 78-83 To Bone 79-8» To Clean Giblets 78 To Cut Up 80 To Dress and Clean 78 To Truss 78-79 Powdered Su^ar Icing 131 Preserved Ginger Sandwiches 144 Preserved : ■ Pineapple 173 Strawberry , 173 Preserving — General Directions for ; . 170-171 Pressed Veal ..'.., 7«. Pressure Cooker lO Protein: Effect of Heat on • SS Prunes: Pie ; 60 Stewed ; ■ 23 Puff Paste 59 Pudding: Cheese 89 Chocolate Bread 146 Chocolate Steamed 153 Chocolate Tapioca ; 149 Cream Tapioca ,' : 148 Date I ; . . ; 154 Date II 154 Frozen 168 Fruit Tapioca 149 Imperial : 148 Indian • 149. Junket 147 Majestic 168 Marshmallow ; 161 Nesselrode 168 Orange Bread 14S Porcupine 154 Snow 160 Spiced Cheese 88 Steamed Fig 154 Steamed Fruit -.....> 155 Steamed Tapioca .....: 148 Suet I 153 Suet II 153 Puffed Rice Balls 28 Pumpkin Pie i 62 Punch 16-17 Cherry 17 Cranberry ; 17 Foundation 16 Grape ; '. v ....... . 16 Grape Nectar . ; ; 17 Mint .V. . . : 17 INDEX 243 Pineapple , 17 ■ Raspberry .■ 17 Strawberry ■ i i ............ ; 16 Tea it:.:: : 17 Quick Icing -,:.:.: ; ; . . . 130 Quince Jelly 181 Raised Doughnuts Ill Raisin Sandwiches ;...-. 144 Rarebit : 90 Raspberry Punch 17 Red Bean Salad ■ ;.. 138 Rennet Whey 19 Rhubarb: Baked ; 23 ■ Canned ; : 172 Marmalade ; 173 • Pie i. ..- ; ; fiO^ Ribbon Sandwiches 141 Rice: . , • Boiled , 55 Steamed 55 , Water , 18 Roast: ; Chicken , 80 > Oven 70 ,' Pork 77 ; Pot ,.. 71 . T yeal , 77 Rolls: , Apple 150 Cinnamon , 108 Date 150 , Dinner 10^ - Parker House ' 107 ' Salad 108 Sandwich 142 To Glaze ■ 107 Russian: Dressing - 134 Rocks 122 Sandwiches 144 Tea 17 Salads .• 132-140 Apple and Celery 135 Asparagus I '. 138 Asparagus II ; 138 Banana 135 ; Chicken 140 , Cream Cheese 140 Combination Fruit -. 135 Date . . . .; 135 Egg I 139 Egg II 139 Egg III 139 Fruit 134 Fruit and MarshmalloW 135 Grapefruit and Pimento 135 Lettuce 135 Lettuce with Cheese Balls ; 140 . Lettuce; Egg and Radish . . .' ISd 244 INDEX Ora'ngre and Pimento 135 Pea and Peanut '......; •• 136 Pea and Potato Ball 136 Pear 135J Poinsettia Tomato 13Ti, Potato 136' Red Bean 136, Salmon : . . 139. Sweetbread and Cucumber 130^ Tomato 136 Tomato, Frozen 137 Tomato, Jelly 138 Tomato, Stuffed 137 Watercress 13S White 138 White and Gold 135 Salad Dressings: Bacon Fat 133 Cheese .- 134 Cooked 139 French 132 Mayonnaise ■ 134 Peanut 134 Russian 134 Whipped Cream 131 White . ; 13S Sally Lunn , lOX Salmon: Casserole of Rice and 87 Cream Soup 93 iioaf 86 Salad IS* Salpicon, Fruit '. 21 Salted: Almonds 53 Peanuts I : 5| Peanuts II S3 Sandwiches 141-145 Beef. Raw 142 Bread and Butter ^ 141 Checkerboard 141 Cheese and Olive 144 Chicken 142 Chocolate 145 Club 144 Date 144 Egg 143 Fig 144 General Suggestions for ^ 141 Ham 14i Ham and Egg 143 Ham, Ground 143 Lettuce ; 142 Nasturtium 142 Peanut 144 Preserved Ginger 144 Raisin 144 Ribbon 141 Bussian , .....^..... 144 INDEX 245 Sardine 143 Tongue , 143 Watercress 142 Whipped Cream 146 Sandwicli Rolls 142 Sardine Sandwiches 143 Sauce: Bechamel 39 Brown 39 Caramel 41 Chocolate 41 Cranberry 23 Drawn Butter 39 Eg-g 39 Foamy Egg 41 Giblet 81 Hard 40 Hollandaise i .. 39 Indian 176 Lemon I ^ 40 Lemon II 40 Mousseline 40 Sterling 40 Vanilla 40 Sauces 37-41 • Methods of Mixing 37 Starchy 37-38 Sauteing: General Directions for • 67 Scalloped: Dishes, General Rules for Making 37 Score Card for Bread 105 Sherbet, Definition of 162 -Grape 165 Grape Milk ' 165 Lemon 16>4 Lemon Milk : 165 Orange 165 Orange Cream 165 Short Cake I 151 Short Cake II 151 Slaw, Hot 138 Snow Pudding 160 Snow: Apple 152 Orange 152 Peach ; 152 Soap, Hard 182 Soufflfi: Cheese ^ 88 Chocolate 147 Cold Chicken 82 Egg , 67 Fish 86 General Directions for Making 37 Lemon 147 Meat 74 Nut 62 Vegetable .' 62 Soups .^ 91-9« 246 INDEX Almond '. . 9-5 Baked Bean with Tomato . , 95 Bean and Tomato 94 Cheese 95 Corn 96- Cream 93 Cream, General Directions for Making 37 Cream of Salmon 93 Cream of Tomato 93 Emergency 94 Julienne . . . . , 93 Neapolitan 94 Peanut 95 Stock, Brown ■ 92 Stock, White 92 To Clear 91 With Stock 91 Without Stock 91 Sour Cream Pie 61 Southern Batter Bread 100 Spanish Pickles 175 Spiced Apples 22 Spiced Cheese Pudding- ; 88 SplnSich: A la CrSme ; 48i Boiled 48 Sponge: Cake I 119 Cake II 119 Cake (White) 119 Coffee 160 Lemon 169 Orange . . ; 160 Spun Sugar- 35 Squash: Baked 46 Steamed 46 Stale Bread, Uses for Ill Standard Cake 116 Standardization of Oven Temperature 115 Starch: Effect of Heat on 36 Starchy Sauces 37-38 Starchy Vegetables. General Directions for Cooking 4S Steak: Flank en Casserole 72 Hamburg ■ 72 Panbroiled 71 Planked 71 Steamed: Chocolate Pudding 153 Pig Pudding 154 Fruit Pudding IBS Tapioca Pudding 148 Sterling Sauce 49 Stew: Brown Meat, with Dumplings 72 Oyster '96 INDEX 247 Stock: Brown Soup 92 To Clear 91 White Soup 92 Stoves ., 5-9 Alcohol 9 Coal 5 Gas g Gasoline 9 Kerosene 9 Structure and Management 5-9 Strawberry: Bavarian 161 Ice Cream 165 Mousse 167 Preserves 173 Punch 16 Roll 168 Structure and Management of Stoves 5-9 Stuffing for Chicken 81 Suet Pudding I • 153 Suet Pudding II 163 Sugar: The Effect of Heat on 25 Spun 35 Stages of Cookery 25-2S Swedish: ^Tea Ring 108 / Timble Cases 98 Timble Irons, To Use 98 Sweetbread and Cucumber Salad 139 Sweetbreads, Creamed 76 Sweet Potatoes: Baked 46 Glazed 46 Syrup 27 ; 163 Caramel 27 Taffy: Molasses 27 Vinegar 28 Tapioca: Chocolate .' 149 Cream Pudding 148 Fruit 149 Steam Pudding 14« Tarts, Banbury 62 Tartlets, Orange 6S Tea 15 Punch 17 Russian - .-^^ 17 Timbale Cases, SVedish 9S Toast: 'Dry 112 French 113 Imperial Sticks In' Rings . . . ; ' 112 Milk •. 118 Water 18 248 INDEX Tomato : Catsup 178 Jelly Salad 138 Salads 136-137 Tomatoes: Bamekin 49 Sauted 49 Soup 93 Stuffed 48 Tongue: Boiled 73 In Aspic 75 Turnips: Mashed 47 Stuffed 47 Vanilla Sauce 40 Veal: Birds 77 Breaded Cutlets 76 Pressed . . '. 76 Roast ...^ 77 Vegetables 42-52 Souffl§ 62 Thickened with Egg 52 General Discussion > 42 Canningr 170 Starchy. General Directions for Cooking 43 Vinegar Taffy 28 Wafers: Gluten 126 Pecan Nut ■. . 122 WaiERes 99 Washington Pie ■. 153 Water: Albumen . 18 Apple 18 Cinnamon 18 Javelle' 182 Rice 18 Toast ■ 18 Watercress: Salad 13B Sandwiches ; 142 Whey ■ 19 Whipped Cream 41 Salad Dressing 133 Sandwiches 145 White: Bread (Sponge Method) 107 Bread (Straight Dough Method) 106 Cake, Almond 116 Cake, Plain 116 Cake, Sponge . . . . : 119 Grape and Quince Jelly 180 Salad 138 Salad Dressing 133 Yeast . . .■ 106 Zwlebach : 109 INDEX 249 INDEX (the ETIQCETTE and 8BBTICE or THE TABLE) Breakfast 223 Curving 224 Carving a Fowl 225 General Directions 225 Suggestions 224 Deportment, General 199, 200, 201 Arrival and Departure of Guests 197 Conversation at- Table 198, 201 Use of Knife and Fork at Table 202 Use of Napkin 202 Use of Spoon 203 Salt . . 220 Dinner, Family 220 Menu. 221 Service 221, 222, 223 Dinner, Formal 212 Courses , 212 Finger Bowls 201, 213, 214, 215 Invitations 197 Laying the Table 212 Order of Service 212 Service 212 Seating 198 Dinners, Informal 216 Difference Between Formal and Informal 216, 217 Order of Service 217 Service 218, 219, 220 Serving Utensils 206, 210, 213, 214, 218, 222 Serving Table 221, 223 Etiquette: Dinner 197, 198 Public Dinner 198 Table 198 Garnishing of Foods 223, 224 Good Manners, Why? 197 Laying the Covers • 205 Bread and Butter Plates 207, 209, 210, 216. 218, 222 Finger Bowls 208 Napkins 201, 205, 209, 218 Nut and Bon Bon Dishes 207, 208 Salt and Pepper 207 Service Plates 207 Water Glasses 205, 207, 209, 218, 222 LiMicheon, Formal 215, 216 Luncheon, Informal 223 Serving Directions 213, 214, 215 Coffee 215. 216 Dessert , 211, 220, 221, 222, 215 Fruit 215 Plates 212 Removal of Courses 210 3g» INDEX Rolls 814 Salad 211, 216. 219, 222 Service Plates 212, 214 Serving Table ; 21J, 221 Silver ; 214 Soup 200, 2U, 212, 213, 216, 218, 219, 222 Vegetables 211, 221 Styles of Service 211 Compromise 211, 216, '220, 223 English 211. Russian , 211 Table Arrangement 205 Chairs 20S Doilies 204 Decorations ^ 804 Laying of the Cloth 204 Menus 215, 221 Menu Cards 205 Place Cards 265 Placing of Dishes 221, 222 Waitress, Duties of 208, 210, 211, 217 Care of Dining Room 210 Clearing the Table 210 Crumbing the Table 210 Dress 208 Method of Handling Dishes ; 208, 209 Personal Appearance 208 ReHUing Water Glasses 20« Serving Tray 210 Two Waitresses , 213