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 /iDOLPHE /i^EYlR, 
 
MEMORIAL POULTRY LIBRARY 
 
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Cornell University Library 
 TX 745.M61 
 
 Eggs, and how to use the^i;;* 9"''J,^|||?,'i|'*' 
 
 3 1924 003 579 020 
 
The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003579020 
 
E^GGS, 
 
 1bow to XDlse TLhcm. 
 
 A GUIDE FOR THE PREPARATION OF EGGS IN 
 
 OVER FIVE HUNDRED DIFFERENT STYLES 
 
 WITH SOME REFERENCE TO THEIR 
 
 IMPORTANCE IN THE PAST 
 , AND PRESENT TIMES. 
 
 ADOLPHE MEYER, M.C.A. 
 
 Many years Chef of the Union Club: Corresponding Member of the 
 ' Cookery and Food Association^ London. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, 
 
 New York, 1898. 
 
TO 
 
 ALL, WHO ACKNOWLEDGE 
 
 THEIR INDEBTEDNESS TO THE EGG; 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED. 
 
 Copyright, 1898, by Asolphe Meyer. 
 
SI CDat witi) tDe Reader. 
 
 THIS modest little book scarcely deserves the 
 dignity of a formal preface. Indeed, it 
 seems as though prefaces have gone out of 
 fashion in recent years. They have proven very 
 useful, however, to authors desirous of placing 
 themselves and their subject on a proper footing 
 with their readers, before the latter begin the 
 task of critically examining their literary wares. 
 In the present instance, the writer has ventured 
 to call attention to the prominent part which, that 
 most common yet most useful article of diet, the 
 egg, has played in the development of the science 
 and art of cookery, ever since primeval man first 
 realized the possibilities of fire and water in the 
 proper preparation of food. These pages also 
 
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 contain a complete guide, showing the many 
 different ways in which the egg can be treated, 
 so as to please the eye as well as the palate. It 
 can be justly claime4 for the egg that it is as 
 popular among the vast multitude of those who 
 merely eat to live, as it is with that select brother- 
 hood of don vivanfs, who only live to eat. 
 . When all is said, however, the egg must stand 
 alone upon its intrinsic merits. Like woman, 
 when an egg is good, there is nothing better; 
 when it is bad, there is nothing worse. 
 
 The Author. 
 
PART I 
 
 a l^istoricaK CDeoretical and Practical 
 Cbaptcr on eggs. 
 
 IN all times and in all ages, among all races and 
 in all lands, as far back as written history and 
 tradition can be traced, the egg has ever been 
 regarded as chief among Nature's most precious 
 gifts to mankind. 
 
 This universal popularity has been due not 
 merely to the fact that the egg is found: in every 
 corner of the earth, and that it is a most whole- 
 some and nutritious article of food, but also, to 
 the additional and very important fact, that it is 
 continuously and abundantly reproduced, ready 
 for immediate use, without the aid or assistance 
 of those who benefit by its production. 
 
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 Famous cooks, in the past as well as the pres- 
 ent, have been fully aware how much they are 
 indebted to the egg, in the creation of the various 
 sauces and delicacies, that have made their repu- 
 tation as masters in the art of cookery. In fact, 
 without the aid of eggs, the artistic cook would 
 have to abandon his profession in despair. 
 
 In ancient times the life-giving quality of the 
 egg was recognized by the philosophers of those 
 days, who regarded it as the symbol of awaken- 
 ing life, and many of them advised their disciples 
 and followers to abstain from the use of eggs as 
 food, so as not to destroy a germ, which Nature 
 had destined for the production of a new life. 
 The egg was also regarded as an emblem of the 
 material world, representing the four elements 
 which compose it, as follows: — the shell indicat- 
 ing earth ; the white, water ; the yolk, fire ; and 
 the capula (between shell and white) being typical 
 of the air. 
 
 Hutchinsori, in his history of Northumberland, 
 says: " Eggs were held by the Egyptians as a 
 sacred emblem of the renovation of mankind after 
 the deluge. The Jews adopted it to suit the cir- 
 cumstances of their history, as a type of their 
 departure from the land of Egypt, and it was used 
 in the feast of the Passover as a part of the furni- 
 ture of the table, with the Pascal lamb." 
 
 Greeks and Romans used eggs in their sacri- 
 fices, and carried them with great pomp, in honor 
 of Ceres,' the Goddess of Agriculture. 
 
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 Pliny, in his natural history, tells the story of 
 Livia, the wife of Nero, who, during her preg- 
 nancy, consulted a fortune teller; and the latter 
 advised her, " Warm in your bosom a new-laid 
 egg until hatched ; if a male chicken comes forth, 
 thank the Gods, who will grant you a son." The 
 Empress followed the advice, as given, with the 
 result that her wish was gratified, as she gave 
 birth to Tiberius. Her example was followed by 
 many of the foremost women of Rome, greatly to 
 the amusement of those who watched these proud 
 matrons devote themselves to the incubation of 
 chickens. 
 
 Once upon a time eggs played an import- 
 ant part in the interpretation of dreams, as is 
 shown by the following legend: A man, who 
 dreamed that he had eaten an egg, consulted a 
 soothsayer, and that wise man informed him that 
 the white of the egg signified that the dreamer 
 would, before, long, come into the possession of 
 some silver, and the yolk meant that he would 
 soon receive some gold. The fortunate dreamer 
 soon afterward received a legacy consisting partly 
 of those two precious metals. He hastened to 
 thank the fortune teller, and offered him a piece 
 of silver. "This is very well for the white," said 
 the latter, "but is there naught for the yolk ? " 
 
 Athenaeus mentions a certain Nichomachus, 
 who said, "My father left me very little property. 
 In a few months I made it as round as an egg; and, 
 then breaking the shell, I made but one gulp of 
 
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 it." This shows clearly that the ancients were 
 partial to soft boiled eggs. 
 
 The Romans were very fond of new laid 
 eggs, which formed the first course of every 
 dinner. 
 
 They asserted that it was necessary to remain 
 at the table " from the egg to the apple," if one 
 wished to maintain himself in health. Hence the 
 adage, " ai ovo usque ad mala," or "from the be- 
 ginning to the end." 
 
 In speaking of this custom, the author of the 
 Tabella Cibaria, cynically remarks, " This expres- 
 sion, '■abovo,' — from the beginning — alludes also 
 to those prolix narrators, who would begin the 
 history of the siege of Troy by recalling the cir- 
 cumstance of Castor and Pollux, as well as Helen 
 and Clytemnestra, having been hatched out of 
 Leda's egg." This fable is thus alluded to in the 
 Hexameter: " Pollux and Castor were hatched 
 out of a couple of eggs," says our poet (Horace), 
 "yet, you boldly call for them, as if you were 
 not afraid of finding there, not the Dioscuri, but 
 some half-formed chickens." 
 
 It was a Roman custom to mark the beginning 
 of the New Year, which then occurred in March, 
 by presents of bright colored eggs in honor of 
 Castor and Pollux. This custom still prevails in 
 some countries on New Year's Day, but it is more 
 commonly followed during Easter tide. The eggs 
 are then often made of sugar, chocolate, or paste- 
 board covered with silk, and richly decorated 
 
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 with artificial flowers, and, sometimes, they have 
 presents of considerable value inside of them. 
 
 Brand, in his Popular Antiquities, has much to 
 say as to the origin of Easter eggs. He quotes 
 from Douce's manuscript notes as follows : ' ' The 
 author of Le Voyageur h Paris supposes that the 
 practice of painting and decorating eggs at Easter 
 among the Catholics, arose from the joy which 
 was occasioned by their returning to their favor- 
 ite food after so long an abstinence from them 
 during Lent." 
 
 Elsewhere he speaks of Efnilianne's Frauds of 
 Romish Monks and Priests, in which are found the 
 following passages: " On Easter Eve and Easter 
 Day all the heads of families send great chargers 
 full of hard eggs, to the church to get them 
 blessed, which the priests perform by saying 
 several appointed prayers, and making great signs 
 of the cross over them and sprinkling them with 
 water. The priest, having finished the ceremony, 
 demands how many dozen eggs there be in every 
 basin." 
 
 "These blessed eggs have the virtue of sanctify- 
 ing the entrails of the body, and are to be the 
 first fat, or fleshy nourishment they take after the 
 abstinence of Lent. The Italians do not only 
 abstain from flesh during Lent, but also from 
 eggs, cheese, butter and all white meats. As soon 
 as the eggs are blessed, every one carries his por- 
 tion home, and causeth a large table to be set in 
 the best room in the house, which they cover with 
 
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 their best linen, all bestrewed with flowers, and 
 place around it a dozen dishes of meat and the 
 great charger of eggs in the midst. 'Tis a very- 
 pleasant sight to see these tables set forth in the 
 houses of great persons, when they expose on 
 side tables (round about the chamber) all the 
 plates that they have in the house, and whatever 
 else they have that is rich and curious, in honor 
 of their Easter eggs, which of themselves yield a 
 very fair show, for the shells of them are all 
 painted with divers colors and gilt. Sometimes 
 there are no less than twenty dozen in the same 
 charger, neatly laid together in the form of a 
 pyramid. The table continues in the same pos- 
 ture, covered all the Easter week, and all those 
 that came to visit them, in that time, were invited 
 to eat an Easter egg with them, which they must 
 not refuse." 
 
 As a regular article of diet, eggs, and especially 
 hens' eggs, have always been appreciated. The 
 long shaped eggs were considered the best, and 
 to give better nourishment, as they were cock- 
 eggs (that is a cock would be hatched from them). 
 The Romans did not confine themselves to hens' 
 eggs, but they sought those of the partridge and 
 the pheasant, and Quintus Hortensius introduced 
 the use of peacocks' eggs. 
 
 Galen, the first known of physicians, considered 
 those of the partridge and the pheasant as the 
 most delicate. 
 
 Dr. Muffett, in his quaint book. Health's Im- 
 
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 provement, published in London in 1655, has the 
 following to say as to the choice of eggs: 
 
 " First; that they be rather Pullet's eggs, than 
 laid by an old Hen. 
 
 "Secondly; that they be not self-begotten, but 
 gotten by the Cock upon the Hen. 
 
 "Thirdly; that they be new, white and long; 
 for such eggs nourish plentifully, and quickly 
 clear the voice and breast, strengthen the stom- 
 ach, recover men out of consumption, and in- 
 crease nature so much, that in continuance of 
 time they make us wanton. They nourish quick- 
 ly, because they are nothing but liquid flesh; they 
 nourish much, because their heat and moisture is 
 proportionable unto ours. They are wholesomest 
 in the morning, because they are then newest. 
 They are best in winter, because hens are then 
 fattest, strongest, and best relished; they are 
 worst in summer, because hens feed then upon 
 flies, snails, cadlocks, and many ill weeds, which 
 rather scours than nourishes their bodies. They 
 are best being eaten alone, because being mingled 
 with other meats, they corrupt in the stomach, 
 filling many men's faces full of pimples, mor- 
 phens, and freckles. They are ill for young chil- 
 dren (especially being often eaten), for that their 
 bodies turn them into over hot nourishment, 
 whence itch, scabs, inflammations and corruptions 
 do arise. They are also bad for old men, because 
 they are hardly digested of a cold stomach. Fittest 
 
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 they are for temperate young persons, and such 
 as are consumed without any notable fever." 
 
 The learned doctor thus discourses upon the 
 digestibility of eggs: "A rare egg anyway dressed 
 is lightest of digestion ; a hard egg is most rebel- 
 lious ; an egg betwixt both is of strongest nour- 
 ishment. Eggs poached into water, or verjuice, 
 are fittest for hot complexions, or men distem- 
 pered with agues ; sodden rare in the shell, they 
 are soonest converted into blood; but being rare 
 roasted in embers they make thickest and strong- 
 est blood, and are fittest for weak, cold and wa- 
 terish stomachs. " 
 
 In those days, strange as it may seem at this 
 time, it was customary to roast eggs. John Dry- 
 den, the old English poet, tells in rhyme of — 
 
 " New laid eggs, with Baucis' busy care 
 Turned by a gentle fire, and roasted rare." 
 
 This custom is thus alluded to in Tabella Cibaria: 
 " In countries where wood fire is constantly used, 
 the cottager half buries his eggs in an upright po- 
 sition in hot ashes, upon the hearth, and when a 
 clear dew drop oozes on the top of the shell the 
 eggs are fit to be eaten. Gastrqlogers are of the 
 opinion that when done in this way, they have a 
 much better flavor than when boiled. Fancy goes 
 far in matters of taste. " 
 
 The most singular method of cooking eggs is 
 that attributed to the Egyptian shepherds, who, it 
 is said, were able to cook eggs without fire, by 
 placing them in a sling, and whirling them 
 
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 around so rapidly that the friction of the air heat- 
 ed them to the exact degree desired. 
 
 Giles Rose, chef of Charles the Second of Eng- 
 land, gives a recipe for making a giant egg, which 
 was often enough served upon the supper tables 
 of the nobility and gentry in the seventeenth cen- 
 tury. In the words of the recipe, " If you would 
 have an egge so bigge, there is an art how it may 
 cover other egges in it, and be not known from a 
 natural egge. You shall part fifty, or more, yelks 
 of egges and whites, one from the other; mingle 
 the yelks gently and put them into a bladder, and 
 bind it round as you can ; put it into a pot full of 
 water, and when you see it buble, or when they 
 are grown hard, take them out and add the white 
 to them ; so filling the yeiks that they stand in the 
 middle, and boil them again so you shall have an 
 egge made without a shell, which you shall frame 
 thus : 
 
 Powder the white egge shells, clean washed, 
 that they may fly into dust ; steep this into strong, 
 or distilled vinegar, till they grow soft ; for if an 
 egge be long in vinegar the shell will dissolve and 
 grow tender that it may easily be passed through 
 the small mouth of a glass; when it is thrust in 
 with fair water it will come to its former hard- 
 ness, that you will wonder at it; when the shells 
 are dissolved like an unguent, with a pencil make 
 a shell about your egge that is boiled, and let it 
 harden in clear water, so shall you have a natural 
 egge." 
 
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 In making this giant egg a feature of the royal 
 table, Giles Rose desired to show in a material 
 way the value and importance of eggs in the esti- 
 mation of those who regard the preparation of 
 food as something more than a mere matter of 
 routine drudgery. 
 
 The world-wide popularity of the egg has made 
 it part of the folk-lore of every land; and there 
 are few languages in which it is not used to ex- 
 press a homely truth, or give point to some wise 
 axiom. 
 
 The French say : " // /aui casser des oeufs pour 
 faire une omelette " (to make an omelette it is 
 necessary to break eggs) ; or, in other words, one 
 must oftentimes make some small sacrifice in 
 order that an enterprise should be successful. 
 
 A German adage is, '■'■Aenlich wie ein Ei dem 
 anderen " ; which means a resemblance such as 
 one egg has for another. 
 
 The Latin phrase, "Ab ovo usque ad mala" 
 (from the egg to the apple), or "from the begin- 
 ning to the end," has been already alluded to. 
 
 In English we say, "As full of meat as an egg," 
 which is founded on the familiar saying that an 
 egg contains as much nutriment as half a pound 
 of meat. 
 
 In preparing eggs for the table, the Romans 
 cooked them in water, in hot ashes, on charcoal, 
 in the frying pan, and also pickled them ; in fact, 
 they had twenty different ways of making the egg 
 
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 pleasing to the eye as well as the taste of the ion 
 vivants of those days. 
 
 Apicius, a famous epicure of ancient Rome, left 
 many recipes, that are still extant, and among 
 them we find these: 
 
 Eggsh la Romaine. — Cook several eggs; cut them 
 and throw over them a seasoning composed in the 
 following manner: bruise some pepper, alisander, 
 coriander and rue, to which add garum, honey 
 and a little oil. 
 
 Hard Eggs a V Athenienne. — Cut each egg in four 
 parts, and sprinkle them with garum, oil and 
 wine. 
 
 Fried Eggs a V Epoenete. — Fry several eggs, place 
 them in a dish and season with a mixture of pep- 
 per, alisander, pine nuts, garum and benzoin. 
 
 Egyptian Egg Pudding. — Take the yolks of a 
 number of hard eggs, reduce them to a paste with 
 crushed pine nuts, an onion, a leek, some gravy 
 and pepper ; add a little wine and garum ; stuff an 
 intestine with the pulp, and cook. 
 
 Dish of Eggs a la Macedonienne. — Put into a 
 mortar some pepper, mint, parsley, pennyroyal, 
 cheese and pine nuts ; when these are well crushed 
 add honey and vinegar, fresh water and garum, 
 and then a large number of yolks of eggs ; mix 
 well with the rest, and throw the whole into 
 a saucepan; add bread soaked in vinegar and 
 water, which must be well squeezed out, some 
 fresh cows' milk cheese, cucumber, almonds, 
 chopped onions, fowls' livers and garum. 
 
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 Lesbian Eggs with Roses. — Pluck the leaves of 
 several roses, taking only the whitest part, and 
 put them into a mortar with garum ; stir a long 
 time, add half a small glass of gravy; stir and 
 strain; put into the liquor the brains of four 
 fowls and eight scruples of ground pepper; stir a 
 long time, and then add to it eight eggs, half a 
 small glass of wine, and as much cooked wine, 
 and lastly a little oil. Grease well the inside of 
 a dish, pour the whole into it, and place it over a 
 very slow charcoal fire, cook, sprinkle with pep- 
 per, and serve. 
 
 In the "Forme of Cury" we find a recipe for 
 poached eggs, with a sauce of yolks of eggs and 
 milk seasoned with saffron and salt. There is also 
 an egg soup (brewet of ayren) composed of eggs, 
 water, butter, cheese and saffron, mixed together 
 and heated, but not boiled, with verjuice added 
 before serving. 
 
 In cookery books of the fifteenth century we 
 find three recipes for eggs, two of vi\i.\chA-potag& 
 de eggs and eyron enpoche — are merely poached 
 eggs. The third is called eyroun en Lentyn, which 
 probably means "eggs in Lent." In accordance 
 with this recipe, the eggs are taken out of the 
 shell and replaced together with milk of almonds, 
 colored and seasoned with saffron and cinnamon, 
 and then roasted. 
 
 ■[Jp to the seventeenth century there was very 
 little improvement in the art of cookery, food be- 
 ing just as much overspiced as in the days of the 
 
€SSs> and l70w to I5se Cbem. 17 
 
 Romans. There was a marked change for the 
 better during the seventeenth and eighteenth cen- 
 turies, but the cookery books of that period are 
 evidence of the lavish manner in which spices 
 continued to be used, in spite of the greatly im- 
 proved methods. 
 
 Robert May, in his " Accomplished <Cook," 
 (1665), gives sixty-two different styles of cooking 
 eggs, among which he includes the recipe for the 
 giant egg of Giles Rose. His recipes are nearly 
 all very good, especially for making omelettes, of 
 which he mentions twenty-one "divers wayes. " 
 Although he does not give a name to each of 
 these omelettes, the reader readily recognizes the 
 familiar "omelette aux fines herbes," "au from- 
 age," "au lard," "^ la Bonnefemme," "aux rog- 
 nons et champignons," "aux oignons," "aux as- 
 perges," etc. 
 
 His " sixteenth way, or according to the Turkish 
 mode of making an omelette," is curious enough 
 to be mentioned here. The omelette is garnished 
 with the "hinder part of a hare, or any other 
 venison, " bacon minced small, pistachio nuts, hazel 
 nuts, chestnuts, crusts of bread cut in slices, and 
 sweet herbs, the dish being decorated with fried 
 sippets of bread and slices of lemon. 
 
 The "one and twentieth way " is an omelette 
 with onions and apples, and a sauce of vinegar, or 
 verjuice, butter, sugar and mustard. 
 
 "To dress eggs in the Spanish fashion, called 
 
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 wivos me guidos," is something of a sabaillon served 
 on toast. 
 
 Eggs a la HuguenoUe, or the Protestantway," is 
 mentioned in many latter day cook books, and 
 consists of scrambled eggs with mutton, or beef 
 gravy, mushrooms, orange juice and grated nut- 
 meg. 
 
 Among the queerly named recipes are "eggs 
 fried as round as a ball," "eggs in moonshine," 
 "eggs, or quelquechose" "egg bisk," "a great 
 dish of farced eggs," "egg caudle," and many 
 others of similar quaintness and oddity of ex- 
 pression. 
 
 As the science of cookery developed, new re- 
 cipes for the preparation of eggs were published 
 from time to time. Vincent de la Chappele, in 
 his "Modern Cook," mentions seventy-eight dif- 
 ferent ways in which eggs could be cooked, and 
 it is certain that many of them were very extrava- 
 gant in their requirements.. In the matter of 
 extravagant recipes, Mrs. Glasse, an English 
 authority on the subject, expresses her opinion in 
 the most emphatic manner. She says: "A French- 
 man in his own country will dress a fine dinner 
 of twenty dishes, and all genteel and pretty, for 
 the expense he will put an English Lord to for 
 dressing one dish. I have heard of a cook that 
 used six pounds of butter to fry twelve eggs, 
 when everybody knows (that understands cook- 
 ing) that half a pound is full enough, or more 
 than need be used, but then it would not be 
 
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 French. So much is the blind folly of this age, 
 that they would rather be imposed on by a French 
 booby than give encouragement to a good Eng- 
 lish cook! " 
 
 The absurdity of the above needs no comment, 
 yet it is a positive fact that the imagination of 
 many cooks knows no limit. To render a dish 
 expensive is not always to make it taste better or 
 more appetizing. 
 
 Viard, in his Cuisinier Imperial, gives a recipe 
 that recalls the extravagance of LucuUus. Here 
 it is: "Roast twelve ducks underdone; score 
 them down to the bone, press all the juice out of 
 them, and put the juice under fifteen poached 
 eggs." This dish was called, '■'■ Oeufs pochds a 
 r essence de canards." It reminds one of Brillat- 
 Savarin's famous dish, "eggs in gravy," and the 
 circumstances under which he first prepared it. 
 
 " One day," said this famous authority on gas- 
 tronomy, in telling the story, "I was conducting 
 two ladies to Melun, and on reaching Montgeron, 
 after several hours travelling, we felt hungry 
 enough to eat an ox. Alas ! the inn we stopped 
 at, though it was decent enough looking, had 
 nothing but an empty larder. Three stage coaches 
 and two post chaises had been before us, and, 
 like the Egyptian locusts, had devoured every- 
 thing. 
 
 Looking into the kitchen, however, I saw, turn- 
 ing on the spit, a leg of mutton, the very thing 
 wanted. The longing glances of the ladies were 
 
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 in vain, for it belonged to three Englishmen, 
 who had bought it, and who were now patiently 
 waiting and chatting over a bottle of champagne. 
 
 " But, surely," said I to the cook, in a mingled 
 tone of entreaty and annoyance, "you might fry 
 us some eggs in the gravy of this roast. With 
 that and a cup of coffee with country cream in it, 
 we shall be resigned to our fate." 
 
 "Certainly," answered the cook, "the gravy I 
 have a right to dispose of, and in two minutes 
 you will have your dish." 
 
 While he was breaking the eggs I went to the 
 fire-place, and, with my travelling knife, made a 
 dozen deep wounds in the forbidden " gigot,'' 
 letting every drop of the gravy run out. Then, 
 watching the preparation of the eggs, lest any- 
 thing should spoil my plot, I took possession of 
 the dish and carried it to our room. We, of 
 course, made a capital meal, laughing loudly 
 every time we thought of ourselves having the 
 best part of the roast, and our friends, the Eng- 
 lish, chewing the remainder." 
 
 The recipe of the lively author of the Physi- 
 ologic de GoAt, has nothing in common with that of 
 Viard. Brillat Savarin proved that a true gas- 
 tronomist will always find a way to render food 
 agreeable to the taste, while Viard was ambitious 
 to shine as a cook of great merit, when in reality 
 the chief feature of his recipe was its costliness. 
 
 In modern cookery the eggs most commonly 
 used are those of hens and ducks, and more rare- 
 
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 ly those of turkeys and geese; though the eggs of 
 certain fishes and reptiles are also in demand. 
 
 Verdot, in his Historiographie de la Table, claims 
 that ducks' eggs are best for pastry from the fact 
 that they give a brighter color, better taste, and 
 require less butter, which may be due to the fact 
 that the oil in a duck's egg exceeds that of a hen's 
 egg by so much as one-fourth. 
 
 In Europe, more than in the United States, the 
 eggs of the plover are by many looked upon as a 
 great delicacy. They are highly esteemed by 
 "Bon vivants," and often fetch fancy prices. 
 They are usually served as Hors-d'oeuvres, and 
 eaten hard boiled. 
 
 In many countries, especially islands and along 
 the sea shores, the inhabitants feed on the eggs of 
 the different water birds, many of which, in spite 
 of their fishy diet, are said to be of good taste. 
 
 "For many kinds of cooking the eggs of wild 
 birds are less valuable, though in the preparation 
 of some sauces, where only the yellow portion of 
 the egg is used, and where high color and high 
 flavor are both esteemed, two wild bird eggs are 
 considered equal to three domestic ones. The 
 flavor of an egg is determined by the food of 
 the bird, all or most of it resting in the yellow 
 portion." (Simmonds. ) 
 
 The collection of the eggs of wild birds form 
 a branch of considerable industry in many coun- 
 tries. 
 
 During the season, the Jutten and Dassen Is- 
 
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 lands send a daily average of 30,000 Penguin 
 eggs to Cape Town, and at the little Island of 
 Stylt some 50,000 gulls' eggs are collected an- 
 nually, and quite as many of other sea birds. 
 
 In Africa ostrich eggs are eaten, of which one 
 is considered equal to twenty-four eggs of our 
 domestic hen. 
 
 Alexandre Dumas pere, the great novelist, also 
 author of the Grand Dictionaire de Cuisine, describes 
 therein a recipe given him by the cook of a Bey 
 in Arabia, for the preparation and making of an 
 omelette of ostrich eggs. 
 
 Emeu eggs are nearly as large as those of the 
 ostrich, and are frequently eaten by hunters and 
 settlers in the bush of Australia. 
 
 In the way of reptiles' eggs those of different 
 species may be mentioned. 
 
 Turtles' eggs are said to be far more nutritious 
 than those of the hen. They are in the best eating 
 condition when taken from the slain animal ; and 
 again those, which are only imperfectly devel- 
 oped, are supposed to be the choicest ; they then 
 consist chiefly of the yolk and taste somewhat 
 like terrapins' eggs. 
 
 I know of a prominent man about town who 
 orders three portions of terrapin stew for himself 
 merely to partake of the eggs and liver. He is 
 certainly a great lover of terrapins' eggs, and 
 would be a good companion, for that gourmet 
 who ordered six woodcocks just to obtain the 
 brains and intestine of the birds. 
 
€gg$, ana fiow to Use Cbem. 23 
 
 Alligators' eggs are eaten by natives. Travel- 
 ers, who have eaten sbme, stated to have found 
 them very good. 
 
 Brown, in his work on Guiana, relates a story 
 of a lizard which was killed and cut for cooking, 
 and which contained ten shelUess eggs, midway 
 in size between a pigeon and a hen's egg. They 
 were boiled for about five minutes and allowed to 
 get cold, and then eaten with salt. The yolk had 
 the "consistency of butter" and was found to be 
 excellent eating. 
 
 Of fish eggs, an enormous quantity of those of 
 the shad, more commonly known as shad roe, are 
 consumed in this country. 
 
 The eggs of the sterlet, a species of sturgeon 
 found in Russian rivers, are used in the prepara- 
 tion of the finest cavaire. 
 
 Although there is plenty of caviare made in 
 America exported to Europe and shipped back to 
 us as the genuine article from Russia. 
 
 Other kinds of eggs largely used in cookery, 
 and of which ninety per cent, of ordinary people 
 have no knowledge, are the spawn of the Crusta- 
 cea, as lobsters, crabs and shrimps. They are 
 pounded in the mortar mixed with butter and used 
 for coloring and flavoring sauces. 
 
 The coral out of the body of the lobster is used 
 for the same purpose and is also employed for 
 decorating. 
 
 The Chinese regard eggs which are partly 
 hatched as the most dainty of tid-bits; and, con- 
 
24 €i$s, and Row to Use Cl)em. 
 
 trary to what most people would think, eggs in 
 that condition are odorless. 
 
 As to the different ways of eating eggs, the old 
 adage, ' ' De gustibus non est disputandum, " reigns 
 supreme. It is true that " Fancy goes far in mat- 
 ters of taste." The simplest way, and the one 
 most generally followed, is to have the eggs 
 boiled. Here again, however, many conflicting 
 ideas are encountered. Dumas asserts that the 
 best way to eat a fresh egg is a la coque, that is to 
 say, soft boiled in that fashion it loses none of 
 its qualities. His recipe is to put the egg into 
 cold water, which must be gently heated until it 
 comes to the boiling point, at which instant the 
 e.gg will be properly cooked. 
 
 From experience it can be stated that this is an 
 uncertain method, as it all depends upon the 
 quantity of water and the degree of heat under- 
 neath the vessel containing the egg. 
 
 Mattieu Williams, in his Culinary Chemistry, rec- 
 ommends the boiling of eggs in the "bain marie," 
 or water bath. " In this case," he says, " a ther- 
 mometer should be used, and the water surround- 
 ing the egg must be kept at, or near, i8o degrees, 
 Fahrenheit, the time of immersion being ten or 
 twelve minutes." 
 
 The results of this method are superior to any 
 other, it is claimed, and eggs cooked in this way 
 are "tender and delicate, evenly so throughout; 
 no part being hard, while another part is semi- 
 raw and slimy." 
 
€,S&s, and Row to Use Cl)em. 25 
 
 The third method, and the one usually prac- 
 tised by cooks, is the plunging of eggs into boil- 
 ing water. Although not adopted by everybody 
 as the true and only method, it is the one on 
 which the cook can most safely depend to satisfy 
 consumers. A standing law in cookery is that an 
 egg, immersed as stated above, from two to two 
 and a half minutes, is very soft boiled; from 
 three to four minutes, it is soft ; five minutes, it 
 is medium, that is the white is firm and the yolk 
 is soft; from eight to ten minutes immersion 
 makes the egg hard. 
 
 In plunging eggs, especially fresh eggs, into 
 boiling water, the shell is liable to burst. This is 
 caused by the sudden exposure to the heat, which 
 expands the albumen and causes the shell to give 
 way. To prevent the breaking of the shell, only 
 a small quantity of water should be used. The 
 eggs will thus lower the temperature of the water 
 sufficiently to allow a little of the inner liquid of 
 the egg to force its way through the shell, so that 
 the latter will not burst. Stale eggs are not like- 
 ly to burst, as the shell being porous has per- 
 mitted the evaporation of the fluid. 
 
 There are different ways in which to judge the 
 freshness of eggs. The most popular method is 
 to test their translucency, by holding them in 
 front of a bright light. If the eggs are fresh, 
 they will be clearly transparent ; if they are stale, 
 or decomposed, the light will seem dull and 
 cloudy. 
 
26 €$$s, and l^ow to Use CDetn. 
 
 Another way of testing an egg is to place it in 
 a solution of salt and water, in which there are 
 ten ounces of water to one ounce of salt. If the 
 egg is fresh, it will sink slowly to the bottom. 
 The older the egg, the more slowly, it will sink, 
 and a bad egg will float on the surface. 
 
 There is still another way of testing the fresh- 
 ness of an egg, and that is by touching the larger 
 end of the egg with the tip of the tongue. If the 
 egg is fresh, it will feel cold ; if stale, it will feel 
 warm. This is due to the air bubble between the 
 shell and the skin, which in stale eggs is much 
 larger than in fresh ones, owing to the evapora- 
 tion of the fluids. The eggshell is perforated with 
 innumerable small pores, which, though too mi- 
 nute to be seen with the naked eye, are large 
 enough to permit air entering them, and by taking 
 the place of the evaporated fluids causes the decay 
 of the egg. 
 
 Many different methods are used to prevent this 
 evaporation, and thereby preserve eggs in good 
 condition for a long time. The most effectual 
 method is by covering the egg with some greasy 
 substance. Sometimes they are dipped into melt- 
 ed mutton and beef suet, but these are liable to 
 become rancid. It would be better to use wax, or 
 parafine; even olive oil would answer better. An 
 excellent way to preserve eggs is to cover them 
 with a solution of gum arable and gelatine. Some 
 dealers, I have been told, immerse eggs in oil of 
 vitriol diluted with water, with the result that a 
 
a&Ss, and Row to ISse tbeni. 27 
 
 part of the shell is dissolved in the acid, thus 
 forming sulphate of lime, which fills up the pores. 
 Great quantities of eggs are preserved by liming. 
 These, however, are not fit for boiling as they 
 generally have a disagreeable taste. 
 
 The Scotch method of preserving eggs is to 
 plunge them into boiling water, heated to 140 
 degrees, keep them there five seconds in order to 
 coagulate the albumen next to the shell, and 
 afterwards rub them with oil or suet. 
 
 "The Chinese fashion of preserving eggs is as 
 follows : — They are covered with a paste of quick- 
 lime, sea salt and oak ashes, and thus packed 
 away for three months in boxes separated by 
 each other by rice husks. As a matter of taste 
 they are not nice, the white being coagulated and 
 the yolks having turned green, while the smell is 
 anything but pleasant. " 
 
 A better method of preserving eggs would be 
 to pickle them. In England and the United 
 States this is done often enough. When eggs are 
 plentiful, as in Spring or the early part of Sum- 
 mer, they are boiled hard, the shells removed, 
 put into earthen jars, and boiling vinegar seasoned 
 with whole-pepper, allspice, bayleaves, thyme, 
 onions and garlic is then poured over them ; and 
 in this way they will keep for quite some time, 
 even for years. Thus pickled they form an 
 agreeable accompaniment to cold meats. 
 
 The dessication of eggs comes more and more 
 into practice. They are prepared in three forms, 
 
28 eggs, and Bow to lise Cftem. 
 
 the first containing all the principles of the whole 
 egg, while the others contain but the yolk or the 
 white only. 
 
 It is claimed that dessicated eggs are just as 
 palatable and just as nutritious as when in their 
 fresh state. If this is really so they would be 
 very useful to the traveler and soldier. At the 
 present time dessicated eggs are only used by 
 bakers and those who have more the point of 
 economy than quality in view. 
 
 When eggs are stored away, the small end 
 should be uppermost, as the yolk is liable to 
 adhere to the shell if they are laid on the side. 
 
 The packing of eggs in bran, wood ashes, or 
 salt, is likely to prove unsatisfactory, as the air will 
 find its way through these substances to the eggs. 
 
 Eggs should never be packed away in musty 
 straw, as it is liable to impart an unpleasant 
 flavor to them. This susceptibility of eggs to sur- 
 rounding odors can be used to advantage when 
 fresh truffles are in season. Eggs placed in con- 
 tact with these tubers for forty-eight' hours, will 
 absorb the agreeable perfume of the truffle. A 
 soft-boiled egg flavored with truffle would delight 
 the most exacting of gourmets. 
 
 The mention of soft boiled eggs brings to mind 
 the many, seemingly, endless arguments that have 
 arisen as to their digestibility. 
 
 According to Dr. Beaumont's Table of Digestion, 
 the soft boiled egg requires three hours for diges- 
 tion ; the hard egg taking thirty minutes longer. 
 
€3^6, and Row to Use Cbem. 29 
 
 The reason for this difference in time is that the 
 white of the egg, being almost pure albumen, is 
 more readily acted upon by the gastric juices 
 when it is soft. For this same reason a raw egg 
 needs only two hours for digestion. 
 
 Persons of sedentary habits, or those whose 
 stomachs are easily affected, should only eat eggs 
 that are soft boiled, or poached ; while those for- 
 tunate individuals who have plenty of exercise, 
 can eat any kind of cooked eggs without fear of 
 injuring their digestive powers. 
 
 Raw eggs mixed with sugar and sherry, or 
 brandy, are an excellent stimulant and restora- 
 tive, and, at the same time, they are slightly 
 laxative. Hard eggs, on the contrary, are said to 
 cause constipation. On this point. Dr. Mufiett 
 must be quoted once more, where he tells in 
 quaint language, that " Brassavola reporteth a 
 monk to have been made costiff with hard eggs 
 that no art was available to give him on stool." 
 
 Johnston, in his Chemistry of Common Life, says: 
 "The e.%%, as a whole, is richer in fat than fat 
 beef. It is equalled in this respect, among com- 
 mon kind of food, only by pork and by eels. It 
 is of interest to remark, however, that the white 
 of the egg is entirely free from fat, and that 
 albumen is a very constipating variety of animal 
 food, so that it requires much fat to be eaten with 
 it, when consumed in any quantity, in order that 
 this quality may be counteracted. It is no doubt 
 because experience has long ago proved this in 
 
30 €S$s, and Row to Use Cl)em. 
 
 the stomach of the people, that 'eggs and bacon' 
 have been the popular dish among Gentile nations 
 from time immemorial." 
 
 Eggs are certainly very nutritious, as they con- 
 tain fourteen parts, in a hundred, of albumen. 
 They are therefore, weight for weight, almost as 
 valuable for strengthening and tissue making as 
 muscular flesh. Eggs are also regarded by many 
 as an excellent brain food, owing to the large 
 percentage of phosphorus which they contain. A 
 story is told of a German scholar who took refuge 
 in a barn from the infuriated soldiery. During two 
 weeks this man lived on one egg a day, innocent- 
 ly furnished by a hen, whose nest was within his 
 reach. This shows not only that a man can sub- 
 sist on a small amount of nourishment, but also 
 that eggs are among the most perfect foods pos- 
 sessed by mankind. 
 
 It is true, however, that eggs are not beneficial 
 to every one. Some persons of a very delicate 
 digestion may find eggs a satisfactory and pleasant 
 article of diet, while others far more robust may 
 find them extremely hurtful. 
 
 A few figures as to the number of eggs con- 
 sumed each year in the United States, will show 
 the widespread popularity of the egg as an article 
 of food. 
 
 Dr. E. Atkinson, in T/ie Science of Nutrition, 
 says, " In our factory boarding houses in Massa- 
 chusetts the consumption of eggs per adult is one 
 every other day. One egg every other day, at 
 
€Sjs, and Bow to Use Ct)em. 31 
 
 sixteen and a half cents a dozen, comes to three 
 dollars a year per adult. We may compute our 
 present population as being equal to fifty million 
 adults; fifty million adults, at three dollars each, 
 would spend one hundred and fifty million dollars 
 a year for eggs." 
 
 Simmonds, in his book. Animal Food Resources 
 of the World, says "the &%% traffic of the United 
 States is exceedingly large." 
 
 "The aggregate transactions in the City of New 
 York are said to amount f8, 000, 000 in value." 
 
 The same authority says that "over 20,000 car- 
 loads of live and dressed poultry are carried into 
 New York City yearly, and 25,500,000 dozen of 
 eggs go to the same market. " " According to the 
 best authorities the United States produce nine 
 thousand million of eggs annually." 
 
 Figures are facts, and the above, which is far 
 from being exaggerated, tends to prove that eggs 
 play a greater part in the preservation of mankind 
 than many persons are willing to admit. 
 
FRIAR O'MEARA'S SONG. 
 
 BY FATHER PROUT (rEV. FRANCIS MAHONY). 
 
 Why then, sure it was made by a learned owl, 
 
 The "rule" by which I beg. 
 Forbidding to eat of the tender fowl 
 That hangs on yonder peg. 
 But, rot it! no matter: 
 For here on a platter, 
 Sweet Margaret brings 
 A food fit for kings; 
 And a meat 
 Clean and neat — 
 That's an egg! 
 Sweet maid, 
 She brings me an egg newly laid! 
 And to fast I need ne'er be afraid! 
 For 'tis Peg 
 That can find me an egg. 
 
 Three different ways there are of eating them; 
 
 First boiled, then fried with salt, — 
 But there's a particular way of treating them. 
 Where many a cook's at fault: 
 For with parsley and flour 
 'Tis in Margaret's power 
 To make up a dish. 
 Neither meat, fowl, nor fish; 
 But in Paris they call't 
 A neat 
 Omelette. 
 Sweet girl ! 
 In truth, as in Latin, her name is a pearl. 
 
 When she gets 
 Me a platter of nice omelettes. 
 
f,iis, and Row to Use Cbem. 33 
 
 Och! 'tis all in my eye, and a joke, 
 To casting a sorrowful yoke; 
 
 Sure, of Dublin-bay herrings a keg, 
 
 And an egg. 
 Is enough for all sensible folk! 
 Success to the fragrant turf-smoke, 
 That curls round the pan on the fire; 
 While the sweet yellow yolk 
 From the egg-shell is broke 
 In that pan. 
 Who can, 
 If he have but the heart of a man, 
 Not feel the soft flame of desire. 
 When it burns to a clinker the heart of a friar? 
 
" There is a best way of doing everything:, 
 even if it be to boil an egg." — Emerson, 
 
PART II. 
 
 ALTHOUGH most cook books contain a large 
 number of recipes for the preparation of 
 eggs in a variety of styles, yet there are really not 
 more than a dozen distinctly different methods of 
 cooking eggs ; and they may be classified as fol- 
 lows : boiled, poached, mollet ; shirred, or au mi- 
 roir; scrambled, fried; in cocottes, or cases; mould- 
 ed in timbales; hard, stuffed, cold, omelettes, 
 sweet; and a few miscellaneous styles which can 
 not be very well specially classified. 
 
 In writing this little book, it has not been my 
 intention to produce a long and learned treatise 
 upon the art of cookery, but simply to give, in 
 the fewest possible words, directions for the proper 
 preparation of eggs in any of the above mentioned 
 styles. By this means a person, who orders eggs 
 
36 6SSs> and Row to Use tl)tm. 
 
 prepared in a certain way, can have some idea of 
 the manner in which they are made ready for his 
 use; and at the same time these directions maybe 
 of service to the professional cook by explaining 
 briefly the details of preparation in each of the 
 widely varying styles of egg cookery. 
 
 As no other article of food offers so much scope 
 for the inventive genius of a thoughtful cook as 
 the egg, it may be that there is still greater diver- 
 sity of styles of preparing it for the table than 
 those I have mentioned. If so, I ask the kind in- 
 dulgence of such of my readers as may, per- 
 chance, know of some excellent way of cooking 
 eggs that has not come to my knowledge. 
 
 "To err is human," said the old Latin poet, 
 who also hastened to add, "but to forgive is 
 divine." 
 
BoiUd €SSS, 
 
 IN the first part of this book allusion was made 
 to the various ways in which eggs can be 
 boiled, and it is surprising that, in what is seem- 
 ingly so simple a matter, so many questions can 
 arise for serious consideration before a final de- 
 cision is reached as to which of several methods 
 should be adopted. Under circumstances where 
 the saving of time is no consideration, and where 
 the man who orders his eggs boiled expects to 
 get them, as they ought to be, "tender and deli- 
 cate," the following method should be employed: 
 
 For six eggs have one quart of boiling water; 
 plunge in the eggs and leave them for five to 
 eight minutes without boiling. The eggs will 
 lower the temperature of the water, and bring it 
 to about 1 80°, that is 30° less than the boiling 
 point. The whit? will then be of a creamy con- 
 sistencey, and more apt to blend with the yolk, 
 and also be easier of digestion. 
 
 Another method, commonly adopted in hotel 
 and restaurant kitchens, is to plunge the eggs 
 into boiling water; and after an immersion of 
 two to two and a half minutes the eggs are re- 
 garded as very soft; after three to four minutes, 
 soft; after five to six minutes, medium; and after 
 Qight to ten minutes, hard. 
 
3S €^s, and Row to lise Cbetn. 
 
 I do not consider this method as the best, 
 though hotel and restaurant cooks rely upon it as 
 the safes't, in spite of the fact that oftentimes the 
 result has been disappointing, even when, watch 
 in hand, exactitude in time has been observed. 
 Few are aware of the fact that the cause of such 
 disappointment is due largely to the freshness of 
 the eggs. Mention has been previously made of 
 the fact that the fluids of the egg will evaporate 
 day by day, leaving greater density to the white 
 of the egg, which therefore will coagulate more 
 quickly than the white of a fresh laid egg, which 
 is very watery in substance. 
 
 Another important factor to be considered in 
 boiling eggs is their temperature. Eggs taken 
 from an ice box will cool the water much more 
 than those that have been in the usual kitchen 
 temperature several hours, and the former there- 
 fore require longer time to cook than the latter. 
 Every cook should adopt a certain system, found- 
 ed upon his personal experience in boiling eggs, 
 so as to suit the different tastes which he endeav- 
 ors to satisfy. 
 
 Still another system of Boiling eggs is to put 
 them into a sufficient quantity of cold water and 
 cover them. When the water begins to boil, the 
 eggs are ready to be served. This, in the writer's 
 opinion, is the second best method. 
 
 Eggs can also be steamed, and that method has 
 been adopted in a number of hotels. 
 
 Some few years ago a mechanical device for 
 
egjs, and Row to Use CDem. 39 
 
 correctly timing the boiling of eggs was intro- 
 duced into many restaurant and hotel kitchens, 
 and was warmly welcomed by many cooks, as it 
 relieved them of all blame if the eggs were not 
 satisfactorily cooked. It consisted of a wire bas- 
 ket with an automatic attachment, by means of 
 which the basket came out of the "water when the 
 eggs had been in the boiling water the number of 
 minutes desired by the person ordering them. 
 
poacfted gggs. 
 
 POACHED eggs are nothing more nor less 
 than eggs boiled without the shell. 
 
 The most important requisite is that the eggs 
 should be fresh, as stale eggs will never poach 
 well, even if the greatest care is used in handling 
 them. 
 
 There are two distinct methods of poaching 
 eggs, and that the reader may judge for himself 
 which is the more preferable, the recipes for both 
 are appended. The first meth-od, in accordance 
 with the directions given by most of the French 
 authors on the art of cookery, is as follows: 
 
 Have three quarts of boiling water in a shallow 
 pan, and for each quart add a tablespoonful of 
 vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. Break three or 
 four eggs into the water, just where it is boiling, 
 and with a skimmer gently turn the egg so that it 
 may take an elongated shape. As soon as the 
 eggs are firm take them out with the skimmer, 
 and put them into cold water; before serving put 
 them, for a few minutes, into hot water again. 
 
 The second method, usually followed in Amer- 
 ica and England, is the following : 
 
 Have three quarts of boiling water in a shallow 
 pan; salt it slightly, and drop into it three or 
 four eggs; do not allow the water to boil any 
 
€.$$i, and R«w to Use Cl)em. 41 
 
 longer, and leave the eggs in it about three 
 minutes, until the white is firm ; then take them 
 out, trim them, and serve on toast, or as directed. 
 
 There is very little difference between the above 
 two recipes save the omission of vinegar in the 
 second one. Many French cooks claim that vine- 
 gar possesses the property of giving a good shape 
 to the egg while it is being poached. I claim, 
 however, and I do so from experience, that vine- 
 gar (or verjuice, which was used in bygone days) 
 has no other effect than to make the white of the 
 egg tough; and, therefore, I prefer the second 
 method, as it does not allow the water to boil 
 after the eggs are put into it. In this I follow the 
 theory of Mattieu Williams, and the result is 
 more satisfactory to the cook and more beneficial 
 to the eater. 
 
 Poached eggs are often ordered by physicians 
 for convalescent patients. In such cases the eggs 
 should always be served perfectly plain, without 
 sauces or condiments. They are usually served 
 on toast, or on crusts of bread shaped like the 
 egg. These crusts are scooped out, fried in butter, 
 and filled with divers garnishings. Crusts of 
 puff-paste can be substituted advantageously for 
 those of bread ; they are then shaped into round 
 or oval tartlet moulds, according to the taste of 
 the cook. 
 
42 €ggs, and Row to Use Cbcm. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la Agostini — Agostini. 
 
 Eggs served on a bed of plain boiled rice 
 surrounded with tomato sauce prepared as 
 follows : chop one large onion very fine, and 
 smother in olive oil until thoroughly cooked, 
 then add six tomatoes which were previously 
 peeled, the seeds pressed out and cut in small 
 pieces ; when the tomatoes are reduced to a 
 pulp add a little rich gravy and a taj)le- 
 spoonful of beef extract; season lightly with 
 red pepper. 
 
 a V Aigre-doux — with Sour- Sweet Sauce. 
 
 Eggs served on toast; Madeira sauce mixed 
 with currant jelly poured over them. 
 
 d, V Ahacienne — Ahacian Style. 
 
 Eggs served on slices of fat goose liver; 
 Madeira sauce over them. 
 
 ci V AmMcaine — American Style. 
 
 Cut tomatoes in halves ; squeeze out the seeds ; 
 season with salt and pepper; besprinkle with 
 butter and bake in the oven, then fill with a 
 lobster hash cooked with cream; put the eggs 
 on top, and cover with cream sauce. 
 
 a I'Amiral — Admiral's Fashion. 
 
 Fill some crusts, made of puffpaste, with a 
 chicken hash and truffles in cream; put the 
 poached eggs on top and cover with cream 
 sauce. 
 
€33s, and Row to Use Vnitn. 43 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poch6s 
 
 d I'ArUquin — Harlequin's Fashion. 
 
 Eggs served on toast; cream sauce poured 
 over; besprinkle with chopped beeftongue, 
 truffles and parsley. 
 
 a V Aurore — Aurora. 
 
 Eggs coverd with half tomato and half cream 
 sauce mixed; besprinkle with chopped hard 
 boiled yolk of egg. 
 
 a la Bayonnaise. 
 
 Cut round slices of bread and some of pump- 
 kin of the same size, just a little larger than 
 the poached egg ; fry them both in butter, put 
 the pumpkin on the bread and the egg on 
 the pumpkin ; pour over a cream sauce mixed 
 with puree of onions. 
 
 a la Bayard — Bayard. 
 
 Eggs served on pate de f oie gras toast, covered 
 with a garnishing of shredded ham, truffles, 
 and mushrooms heated in Madeira sauce. 
 
 a la Bearnaise — with Bearnaise Sauce. 
 
 Eggs served on toast and covered with Bearn- 
 aise sauce. 
 
 a la Benedict — Benedict. 
 
 Split and toast some small muffins; put on 
 each a nice round slice of broiled ham, and 
 on the ham the poached egg ; pour over some 
 HoUandaise sauce. 
 
44 €SS$> and Row to Us« Cbem. 
 
 Poached Eggs— Oeufs Poches 
 
 ^ /a Bignon — Bignon. 
 
 Have some light chicken cream forcemeat, 
 with which dress (with the aid of a pastry bag) 
 some rings on the dish on which the eggs are 
 to be served ; cover them with white buttered 
 paper, and cook for four or five minutes in a 
 slack oven. In the centre of each ring put 
 the eggs and pour over a veloute sauce re- 
 duced with some good chicken stock and cream 
 and besprinkle with chopped tarragon leaves. 
 
 a la Bohimienne — Bohemian Style. 
 
 Eggs served on halves of tomatoes stuffed 
 with gooseliver and chopped mushrooms; 
 pour over a cream sauce mixed with puree of 
 tomatoes. 
 
 h la Boieldieu — Boieldieu. 
 
 Fill some bread crusts with fresh tomatoes 
 which were previously pealed, squeezed and 
 cut in eighths (or if the tomatoes are large 
 still smaller) and cooked in oil until perfectly 
 dry; put on each crust an egg and cover with 
 veloute cream sauce. 
 
 h la Bonnefoy — Bonnefoy. 
 
 Make a puree of half game and half pate de 
 foie gras to which add some chopped truffles; 
 heat the pur6e and put in some china cases ; 
 serve the poached eggs on top and cover 
 with velout6 sauce reduced with game stock. 
 
£i$s, and Row to Use Cl)em. 4S 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poch€s 
 
 d la Bonvalet — Bonvalet. 
 
 Gut some round slices of bread, fry them in 
 clarified butter and place on each a poached 
 egg ; cover the eggs with a well-reduced vel- 
 out6 sauce; on the outer rim of the crust put 
 some Bearnaise sauce mixed with tomato 
 pur6e. 
 
 a la Bostonienne — Boston Style. 
 
 Eggs served on small round fish cakes sur- 
 rounded with cream sauce. 
 
 au Bouillon — in Broth. 
 
 Eggs served in broth or consomme. 
 
 ct la Bourguignone — Burgundy Style. 
 
 Eggs poached in Burgundy wine and served 
 on fried slices of bread; with the remaining 
 wine and a little beef extract the sauce is pre- 
 pared by thickening it with a little butter 
 kneaded with flour. 
 
 d. la BrSant — Brdbant. 
 
 Crusts of pu(ff-paste filled with a pur^e of 
 quails and pate de foie gras ; poached eggs on 
 top and covered with Maderia sauce. 
 
 h, la Bretonne — Britanny Style. 
 
 Eggs served on oval shaped slices of smoked 
 beeftongue heated in Madeira, covered with 
 brown sauce mixed with a puree of onions. 
 Instead of brown sauce one made of cream 
 may be served. 
 
46 €$gs, and Row to I5se Zi>tm. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la CafS Anglais — Cafd Anglais. 
 
 With a chicken and lobster forcemeat dress 
 rings on a dish the same as for eggs d, la 
 Bignon; cook them for a few minutes, put 
 in the eggs and cover with crayfish sauce. 
 
 d la Cardinal — Cardinal's Fashion. 
 
 Eggs served on toast and covered with lobster 
 sauce besprinkled with chopped lobster coral. 
 
 & la Cdlestine — Cdlestine. 
 
 Muffins split and toasted are covered with a 
 slice of broiled ham upon which poached 
 eggs are laid ; pour over some cream sauce 
 mixed with cheese, and gratinate under a 
 salamander or in a very hot oven. 
 
 aux Champignons — with Mushrooms. 
 
 Mushrooms sliced and heated in Madeira 
 sauce poured over the eggs. 
 
 <J la Chantilly — Chantilly. 
 
 Crusts of bread filled with shredded truffles 
 in cream; eggs on top; cream sauce with a 
 little beef extract poured over. 
 
 d la Colbert — Colbert Style. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread covered with 
 Colbert sauce; or serve in rings of chicken 
 forcemeat with the above sauce. 
 
 d la Comtesse — Countess Style. 
 
 Puff-paste crusts filled with asparagus tips; 
 eggs on top covered with cream sauce. 
 
€ jjs, and Bow to Use Cbem. 47 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la Crime — with Cream. 
 
 Eggs served on toast and covered with cream 
 sauce. 
 
 h la Crime d'Asperges — with Cream of Asparagus. 
 Crusts of bread, or of puff-paste, filled with a 
 pur6e of asparagus mixed with cream sauce ; 
 eggs served on top. 
 
 d la Crime de Celeri — with Cream of Celery. 
 
 Served the same way as the aforegoing; use 
 a puree of celery instead of asparagus. 
 
 Sur Create — on Crusts. 
 
 Crusts for poached eggs can be either made 
 of plain bread or puff-paste. 
 Bread Crusts. — Cut slices of sandwich bread 
 about three-eighths of an inch to one inch in 
 thickness ; give them an oval shape, or they 
 may be cut round ; with a small pointed knife 
 make an incision on the top all around the 
 border ; then fry in clarified butter ; after the 
 crusts are cooled off slightly, take off the cover 
 and scoop out all the soft part of the bread; 
 this hollow part is generally filled with the 
 diverse pur6es, garnishings^ etc. 
 Puff-paste Crusts. — Roll out some puff-paste 
 trimmings to a thickness of about one-eighth 
 of an inch; line with some tartelet moulds 
 and fiJl them up with split peas or dried white 
 beans; bake in a quick oven from twelve to 
 fifteen minutes; take out the peas and beans 
 and the crusts are ready for using. 
 
48 ES^s, and Row to Use Cl)eni. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poch6s 
 
 d la Cussy — Cussy. 
 
 Bread crusts filled with a ragout of breast erf 
 quail, fat goose liver and truffles, all cut in 
 squares and mixed with brown sauce; eggs 
 on top and covered with veloute cream sauce. 
 
 d. la Daumont — Dauniont. 
 
 Eggs served in chicken forcemeat borders, 
 as eggs h la Bignon, and covered with onion 
 cream sauce. 
 
 d. la Dauphine — Dauphine. 
 
 Bread crusts filled with asparagus tips; eggs 
 on top and Madeira sauce with sliced mush- 
 rooms poured over. 
 
 a la Diable — Devilled. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread; devilled sauce 
 poured over them. 
 
 a la Dumas — Dumas. 
 
 Eggs covered with horseradish cream sauce, 
 besprinkled with grated parmesau cheese and 
 a little melted butter; gratinated under the 
 salamander or in a hot oven. 
 
 h V Ecarlate — Ecarlate. 
 
 Eggs on slices of smoked or pickled beef- 
 tongue and cream sauce. 
 
 aux Ecrevisses — with Crayfish. 
 
 Eggs on toast covered with crayfish sauce, 
 mixed with crayfish tails. 
 
(.$$&, and Row to Use CDent. 49 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Eggs on a bed of finely chopped and well- 
 seasoned spinach, surrounded with a rich 
 gravy. 
 
 a V Espagnole — Spanish Style. 
 
 Eggs on a layer of risotto seasoned with on- 
 ions, safEron and tomatoes, surrounded with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 a I' Estragon — with Tarragon. 
 
 Rich veal gravy with chopped tarragon leaves 
 poured over the eggs. 
 
 a la Florentine — Florence Style. 
 
 Eggs served on artichoke bottoms; cream 
 sauce with chicken and mushrooms cut in 
 small squares poured over. 
 
 a la Georgette — Georgette. 
 
 Large baked potatoes cut in halves and scooped 
 out; put one poached egg in each half and 
 cover with a cream sauce mixed with par- 
 mesan cheese and melted butter, then gratinate 
 under the salamander or in a very hot oven. 
 
 h la Germaine — Germaine. 
 
 Eggs on large-sized fresh mushrooms covered 
 with a sauce colbcrt, to which chopped tar- 
 ragon leaves are added. 
 
 des Gourmet — Gourmet's Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on pat6 de foie gras toast, covered with 
 Bearnaise sauce. 
 
50 C$5s> and How to Use Cbem. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la Gounod — Gounod. 
 
 Eggs on mushrooms, cooked in oil, and 
 covered with a well-reduced and buttered to- 
 mato sauce. 
 
 a la Hiloise — Hiloise. 
 
 Puff-paste crusts filled with a ragout of square 
 cut truffles, chicken and smoked beeftongue 
 in cream; eggs on top with thick tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 a. la Hussard — Hussard. 
 
 Halves of tomatoes stuffed with chopped ham 
 and mushrooms; eggs on top covered with 
 cream sauce. 
 
 a, I'ImpMale — Imperial Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on f oie gras toast ; veloute cream sauce 
 over the eggs and besprinkled with shredded 
 truffles. 
 
 h, rindienne — Indian Style. 
 
 Eggs on abed of plain boiled rice; cream 
 curry sauce surrounding it. 
 
 au Jambon — with Mam. 
 
 Eggs on broiled or fried slices of ham. 
 
 au Jus — with Gravy. 
 
 The best gravy to use with eggs is veal gravy ; 
 however, it can be substituted by some other 
 kind, and if none at hand some light brown 
 sauce, to which a little beef extract is added, 
 may be used. 
 
€S3s> and Row to Use Cbent. 51 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poch^s 
 
 a la Karolyi — Karolyi. 
 
 Eggs on broiled slices of ham, covered with 
 tomato sauce, seasoned with Paprika pepper. 
 
 au Lard — with Bacon. 
 
 Eggs served on toast, garnished with broiled 
 or fried strips of bacon. 
 
 a la Lyonnaise — Lyonese Style. 
 
 Eggs on artichoke bottoms; brown sauce with 
 onion puree poured over. 
 
 a la Magenta — Magenta. 
 
 Eggs on crusts filled with crayfish tails in 
 cream; cream sauce, finished with crayfish 
 butter, poured over the eggs, garnished with 
 asparagus tips. 
 
 en Matelote — Mariners' Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread; claret sauce 
 garnished with small glazed onions and mush- 
 rooms poured over them. 
 
 a la Mazarin — Mazarin. 
 
 Halves of tomatoes stuffed with liver force- 
 meat mixed with chopped truffles, mush- 
 rooms, beef tongue and breast of partridge or 
 chicken; eggs on top and brown tarragon 
 sauce poured over. 
 
 a la Mornay — Mornay. 
 
 Eggs covered with cream sauce mixed with 
 cheese, and then gratinated. 
 
52 eggs, ana Bou) to Use Cbem. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poch6s 
 
 a la Moutarde — with Mustard Sauce. 
 
 Eggs served on toast and covered with mus- 
 tard sauce. The best mustard sauce for eggs 
 would be to mix either some English or 
 French mustard with Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 a la Moscovite. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread; cream sauce 
 poured over and besprinkled with chopped 
 parsley, truffles and lobster coral; garnish 
 with small puff-paste cresents filled with 
 caviare. 
 
 d la Nationale — National. 
 
 Cream sauce mixed with tomato puree and 
 grated cheese, poured over the eggs and then 
 gratinated. 
 
 a la Neptune — Neptune. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread, garnished with 
 lobster cut in small squares and stewed in 
 cream. 
 
 a la Normande — Normandy Style. 
 
 Bread crusts filled with onion puree mixed 
 with chopped ham ; eggs on top and tomato 
 sauae poured over. 
 
 a la d' Orleans — d' Orleans. 
 
 Forcemeat made with cooked pheasant and 
 fat goose liver heated with some thick veloute 
 sauce. Borders of the above are dressed on 
 the diih, and a poached egg is laid in each; a 
 veloute cream sauce reduced with game stock 
 poured over. 
 
€.$$5, and Bow to Use Cbem. 53 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeuf Poches 
 
 d rOseille—with Sorrel. 
 
 Eggs dished up over a puree of sorrel. 
 
 aux Pointes d'Asperges — with Asparagus Tips. 
 
 Eggs garnished with asparagus tips, previous- 
 ly cooked in water and then tossed in butter. 
 
 ct la Portugaise — Portuguese Fashion. 
 
 Halves of tomatoes fried in oil, put on fried 
 slices of bread; eggs on top and tomato sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 a la Prince EgO'ti — Prince Egon Fashion. 
 
 Cream sauce with truffles and crayfish cut in 
 small dice poured over the eggs. 
 
 a la Provenfale — Provencial Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread ; a thick tomato 
 sauce with a supgon of garlic poured over. 
 
 a la pur^e d'Artichauts — with purie of Artichokes. 
 
 d la pur/e d'Asperges — with pur/e of Asparagus. 
 
 a la piir^e de Champignons — with purde of Mushrootns. 
 
 d la pur/e de Gibier — 'with pur/e of Game. 
 
 a la purSe de Lentilles — with pur/e of Lentils. 
 
 d la pur/e de Marrons — with pur/e of Chestnuts. 
 
 d la pur/e de Pois — with pur/e of Peas. 
 
 a la pur/e d' Oignons — -with pur/e of Onions. 
 
 d la pur/e d'Oseille — with pur/e of Sorrel. 
 
54 €.iSs, and Row to ISse Cbem. 
 
 Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la purie de Tomates — with pur^e of Tomatoes. 
 
 h la purie de Volatile — with pur^e of Chicken. 
 
 Besides the above named purees eggs can be 
 served with quite a number of others. The 
 purees used for garnishing can either be served 
 in bread or puff-paste crusts and the egg served 
 on top of these; or, the puree can be put on 
 the dish and the eggs laid upon it; however, 
 the former way is more elegant and generally 
 adopted in first-class houses. 
 
 a la Renan — Renan. 
 
 Garnish some china cases with minced chicken 
 in cream ; put a poached egg in each and pour 
 over a velout6 cream sauce finished with a 
 pur6e of chicory or spinach. 
 
 d, la Rossini — Rossini. 
 
 Eggs on slices of fat gooseliver; truffle sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 h la Rothschild — Rothschild. 
 
 Puff-paste crusts filled with a puree of truffles 
 and pat6 de foie gras; eggs on top with 
 Madeira sauce. 
 
 d la Russe — Russian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on caviar toast, garnished with bone- 
 less anchovies, and surrounded with Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
€$$s, and Row to Use Cbetti. 55 
 
 Poached Eggs— Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la Sagan — Sagan. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread; a cream velout^ 
 sauce with curry, garnished with shredded 
 chicken and cepes poured over. 
 Boiled rice may be served separate. 
 
 h la Sivigni — S^vign^. 
 
 Puff-paste crusts filled with chicken hash and 
 truffles in cream ; eggs on top covered with 
 cream sauce. 
 
 a la Sicilienne — Sicilian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on bread crusts filled with puree of 
 chicken livers ; tomato sauce poured over. 
 
 a la Soubise — Soubise. 
 
 Eggs on toast ; cream sauce mixed with puree 
 of onions poured over. 
 
 a la Stuers — Stuers. 
 
 Eggs on pat6 de foie gras toast ; cream sauce 
 with essence of truffles poured over; a glazed 
 slice of truffle on each Q%^. 
 
 aux Truffes — with Truffles. 
 
 Eggs on toast, covered either with Madeira 
 or ci^am sauce with sliced truffles. 
 
 d, la Turque — Turkish Style. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of egg plant and tomato 
 sauce. 
 
50 €iis, and Row to Use Cbem. 
 
 Poached Eggs— Oeufs Poches 
 
 d la d' Uxelles — d' Uxelles. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread, covered with a 
 sauce made of chopped shallots, mushrooms 
 and fine herbs cooked in butter, reduced with 
 white wine, finished with half brown, and 
 half tomato sauce mixed. 
 
 d, la Valois — Valois. 
 
 Eggs on crusts filled with lobster and truffles 
 cooked in cream. Tomato sauce poured over. 
 
 h la V^four — V^four. 
 
 Eggs on tartelet crusts filled with crayfish 
 tails stewed in cream ; cream sauce finished 
 with anchovy and lobster butter poured over 
 the eggs. 
 
 a la V^ron — Viron. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms filled with chopped beef- 
 tongue and truffles; eggs on top and covered 
 with cream sauce and cheese ; then gratinated. 
 
 h la Victoria — Victoria. 
 
 Bread crusts filled with crab meat cooked in 
 cream ; eggs on top covered with cream curry 
 sauce finished with lobster butter. 
 
 a la Walter Scott — Walter Scott. 
 
 Eggs on toast, garnished with lobster cut in 
 squares and cooked in cream ; tomato sauce 
 finished with lobster butter poured over the 
 eggs. 
 
Csss fttom. 
 
 EGGS MOLLET should properly be classified 
 among soft-boiled eggs, as is clearly indi- 
 cated by the meaning of the word " mol/et." 
 
 In preparing eggs mollet, it is absolutely neces- 
 sary that the eggs be very fresh. Plunge them into 
 boiling water, cover the vessel they are in, and 
 bring it to the corner of the range, not permitting 
 the water to boil, and, after an immersion of ten 
 minutes, take them out, and put them into cold 
 water to cool off. Then take off the shell very 
 cautiously, as the eggs being quite soft are liable 
 to break. When they are fresh from the shell, 
 put them back into clean cold water, and when 
 ready to use heat them in water or broth for a few 
 minutes. . 
 
 Eggs mollet can also be prepared by cooking the 
 eggs for five minutes in boiling water, and then 
 proceeding as stated above. 
 
 Eggs mollet are usually served on toast, crusts, 
 etc. 
 
s8 €ggs, and Bow to I5se Cbem. 
 
 Eggs Mollet (soft)— Oeufs MoUet 
 
 h la Bechamel — Bdchamel. 
 
 Eggs on toast ; cream sauce poured over. 
 
 h la Berlioz — Berlioz. 
 
 Mushrooms and breast of partridge cut in 
 small squares and stewed in cream; eggs 
 served on top. 
 
 h la Bordelaise — Bordeaux Style. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread; Bordeaux sauce 
 poured over. 
 
 a la Bourguignone — Burgundy Style. 
 
 Puff-paste crusts filled with scrambled eggs 
 
 with asparagus tips and truffles; an egg 
 
 mollet on each crust. 
 d. la Bruxelloise — Brussel Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread, garnished with 
 
 Brussel sprouts; cream sauce poured over the 
 
 eggs. 
 & la Catalane — Catalane. 
 
 Eggs on bread crusts filled with crab meat 
 
 stewed in cream. 
 h la Chantilly — Chantilly. 
 
 Eggs on small puff-paste crusts filled with 
 
 puree of onions ; thick tomato sauce over the 
 
 eggs. 
 h la Chicor/e — with Chicory. 
 
 Chicory chopped fine, mixed with cream, and 
 
 well seasoned; eggs on top. Serve good rich 
 
 gravy around the chicory. 
 
€gss, and Bou) to ISse Cbetn. 59 
 
 Eggs Mollet (soft)— Oeufs Mollet 
 
 d la Chasseur — Hunter's Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on a pur^e of chestnuts mixed with 
 
 pur6e of game; Madeira sauce reduced with 
 
 game stock. 
 en Demi-deuil — Demi-deuil. 
 
 Eggs covered with cream sauce, besprinkled 
 
 with chopped truffles. 
 
 aux i^crevisses — vaith Crayfish. 
 
 Eggs over crayfish tails stewed in cream. 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Eggs on a bed of spinach chopped fine, mixed 
 
 with cream and well seasoned, surrounded 
 
 with rich gravy. 
 
 a la Frangaise — French Style. 
 
 Eggs on puff-paste crusts filled with a ragout 
 of cocks' combs and cocks' kidneys in velout6 
 cream sauce. 
 
 h la Garlin — Garlin. 
 
 Eggs on artichoke bottoms; cream sa«ce with 
 shredded chicken and truffles poured over. 
 
 a la du Guesclin — du Guesclin. 
 
 Eggs on bread crusts filled with curried lob- 
 ster; cream sauce with paprika poured over 
 the eggs; chopped truffles, lobster coral and 
 parsley sprinkled over. 
 
 d. la Hdoise — Hdoise. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of ham ; Hollandaise 
 sauce with shredded beeftongue and truffles 
 poured over the eggs, and around them serve 
 a well-reduced tomato sauce. 
 
6o (.s&s, and Bow to Use Cbem. 
 
 Eggs Mollet (soft)— Oeufs Mollet 
 
 d rindienne — Indian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on a bed of rice with cream curry sauce. 
 
 a V Italienne — Italian Style. 
 
 Broiled slices of ham on risotto, and eggs on 
 
 the ham; surrd<unded with tomato sauce. 
 h la Montebello — Montebello. 
 
 Eggs on pate de foie gras toast; thick Bearn- 
 
 aise sauce mixed with puree of tomatoes 
 
 poured over. 
 d. la Montglas — Montglas. 
 
 Eggs on crusts filled with a brown ragout of 
 
 mushrooms, truffles, beeftongue, and chicken 
 
 cut in squares. 
 (J la Nantua — Nantua. 
 
 Eggs on crusts, filled with crayfish tails 
 
 stewed in cream. 
 h rOseille — with Sorrel. 
 
 Eggs served on a bed of sorrel. 
 a V Ostendoise — Ostend Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on crusts, filled with oysters in cream 
 
 sauce. 
 a la Parisienne — Parisian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on artichoke bottoms; cr»am sauce 
 
 with truffles poured over. 
 
 h la Persanne — Persian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on a bed of plain boiled rice, surround- 
 ed with a brown curry sauce with onions, 
 ham, and stewed prunes cut in small squares. 
 
€3Ss> and Row to I5se Cbem. 6i 
 
 Eggs Mollet (soft)— Oeufs Mollet 
 
 a la purde d' Artichauts — with purde of Artichokes. 
 
 a la purSe d' Asperges — with purde of Asparagus. 
 
 a la purde de Celeri — with purde of Celery. 
 
 k la purde de Marrons — with purde of Chestnuts. 
 
 a la purde de Tobinambours — with purde of Girasoles 
 or Jerusalem Artichokes. 
 Eggs can be served right on the puree; or 
 these can be served in crust and eggs on top. 
 
 h la Raphael — Raphael. 
 
 Eggs covered with .anchovy sauce with cray- 
 fish tails or lobster cut in squares. 
 
 d, la Ravigote — Ravigote. 
 
 Eggs covered with veloute sauce, finished 
 with green butter — (taragon, chervil, parsley, 
 etc., parboiled and pounded with butter). 
 
 a la Reine — Queen Style. 
 
 Eggs on crusts filled with puree of chicken ; 
 cream sauce. 
 
 cL la Royale — Royal Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on crusts filled with truflBes and beef- 
 tongue cut in small squares and stewed in 
 cream. 
 
 a la Sidney — Sidney. 
 
 Eggs with cream curry sauce with shredded 
 chicken and ham. Rice may be served 
 separate. 
 
62 €sgs, and Row to Use CDent. 
 
 Eggs Mollet (soft)— Oeufs MoUet 
 
 a la Vatel — Vatel. 
 
 Eggs on fried slices of bread, covered with 
 cream sauce mixed with shredded mushrooms 
 and beeftongue. 
 
 a la Verdi — Verdi. 
 
 Eggs with cream sauce mixed with puree of 
 onions. In the centre of eggs serve fresh 
 mushrooms sauted in butter. 
 
 a la Zurlo — Zurlo. 
 
 Eggs on flat and oval-shaped potato cro- 
 quettes; cream sauce with chopped ham, 
 trufHes and parsley around them. 
 
Scrambled £sss. 
 
 OF all the many ways in which eggs can be 
 prepared for the table, there is none 
 which, as a rule, is liable to be so unsatisfactory 
 as when they are scrambled. In order that a dish 
 of scrambled eggs should appear at its best, it 
 ought to be served immediately after leaving the 
 hands of the cook, as eggs in that form are liable 
 to rapid deterioration in tastefulness and quality. 
 
 Some cooks use cream, or cream sauce, to keep 
 scrambled eggs in good condition for a reasonable 
 period of time. I do not recommend the use of 
 sauce unless it be absolutely necessary, as I con- 
 sider cream more satisfactory. It should be re- 
 membered that the most important point in cook- 
 ing eggs is never to overcook them. Scrambled 
 eggs, that are dried up when served, are not only 
 lacking in tastefulness, but they are also difficult 
 of digestion. Here is a recipe that will give satis- 
 faction if the directions are strictly followed out : 
 
 Butter a flat saute pan liberally, put into it six 
 well beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper, and 
 put on the fire. Keep stirring continually with 
 an egg whisk, or wooden spoon, until the eggs 
 become creamlike in consistency; when they are 
 sufficiently done add about two ounces of good 
 butter, and serve immediately. If scrambled eggs 
 
64 eggs, and Bou) to Use Cbem. 
 
 cannot be served as soon as cooked, a little cream, 
 about one tablespoonful to two eggs, may be 
 added; cooked this way they are more custard- 
 like in appearance. 
 
 Oeufs Brouilles — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 aux Anchois — with Anchovies. 
 
 Boneless anchovies cut in small pieces mixed 
 with plain scrambled eggs. 
 
 aux Artichauts — with Artichokes. 
 
 Artichokes cut into dices mixed with scram- 
 bled eggs. 
 
 h, la d'Aumale — d'Aumale. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with kidneys, garnished with 
 small puff-paste crusts filled with thick puree 
 of tomatoes. 
 
 ct la Balzac — Balzcu. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with shredded beeftongue 
 and truffles, garnished with crusts filled with 
 soubise. 
 
 h la Bordelaise — Bordeaux Style. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with fried cubes of bread and 
 cepes ; chopped fine herbs added when cooked. 
 
 h la Bretonne— Brittany Style. 
 
 Scrambled eggs served on toast, with minced 
 onions in thick brown sauce in the centre. 
 
 ^ la Cervelle de Veau — with Calf's Brains. 
 
 Calf's brains cut in cubes mixed with the eggs. 
 
€jSs> and Row to Use Cbem. 6s 
 
 Oeufs Brouilles — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 aux Champignons — with Mushrooms. 
 
 These can be served either with or without 
 sauce. In the first case, if fresh mushrooms 
 are used they are cooked in butter and mixed 
 with sufficient brown sauce, which must be 
 of good consistency; the scrambled eggs are 
 dished up and the stewed mushrooms put in 
 the centre. If no sauce is required the mush- 
 rooms are cut in cubes, cooked in butter and 
 mixed with the eggs. 
 
 a la Comtesse Uruska — Countess Uruska Style. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with asparagus tips, and' 
 crayfish or lobster cut in cubes, served on 
 toast; surrounded with tomato sauce. 
 
 aux Crevettes — with Shrimps. 
 
 Shrimps cut in squares mixed with the eggs. 
 
 en Croustade — in Crusts. 
 
 These crusts can be made either of bread 
 or puff-paste. (See with poached eggs. ) 
 
 a la Dieppoise — Dieppe Style. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with oysters and mushrooms, 
 served in small puff-paste patties. 
 
 a V Espagnole — Spanish Style. 
 
 Onions, green peppers, ham and tomatoes 
 cooked in oil or butter, mixed with the eggs, 
 or if preferred, can be dished up in the centre 
 of the eggs. 
 
66 €SJs, and Row to ISse Cbem. 
 
 Oeufs Brouillfes — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 a V Estragon — with Tarragon. 
 
 Tarragon leaves are parboiled, chopped, and 
 then mixed with the eggs. 
 
 aux Fines Herbes — with Fine Herbs. 
 
 The professional cook knows of two kinds of 
 fine herbs, the raw and the cooked ; the raw 
 consists of chopped parsley, chervil and 
 chives, sometimes tarragon; the cooked fine 
 herbs are prepared with mushrooms, shallots 
 and parsley, all chopped fine and cooked in 
 butter. 
 
 For scrambled eggs, or omelette with fine 
 herbs, the raw herbs are generally used unless 
 otherwise specified. 
 
 h la Frangaise — French Style. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms, previously heated in 
 broth, are filled with scrambled eggs mixed 
 with chopped truffles, sprinkled over with 
 grated cheese and melted butter; put in the 
 oven for a minute; served with brown sauce. 
 
 au Frontage — with Cheese. 
 
 Plain scrambled eggs, to which, when they 
 are cooked, some grated Parmesan or Gruyere 
 cheese is added. 
 
esss, and Row to Use CDeiti. 67 
 
 Oeufs Brouill^s — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 ci la Geo. de Forest Grant — Geo. de Forest Grant. 
 Plunge some good sized green peppers into 
 very hot fat, so that the outer skin may be 
 detached by rubbing with a napkin, cut off 
 the stalk end and empty out the seeds, boil 
 for about ten minutes, in salted water, and 
 then fill them with scrambled eggs; serve 
 them upside down with a glazed slice of 
 truffles on each, and Madeira sauce on the 
 dish. 
 
 au Hareng saur — with Smoked Herring. 
 
 Skinned and boned smoked herring cut into 
 small pieces, tossed in butter for a few min- 
 utes, and mixed with the eggs. 
 
 aux Huitres — with Oysters. 
 
 The bearded oysters are cooked with a little 
 of their own gravy; when cooked, cream 
 sauce is added in proportion and dished up 
 in the centre of the eggs. 
 
 Or, the soft part of the oysters are cut into 
 squares and cooked, the liquid strained and 
 the oysters mixed with the eggs. 
 
 au Jambon—with Ham. 
 
 Ham cut in small cubes, fried in butter and 
 mixed with eggs. 
 
 au Jus — with Gravy. 
 
 Eggs served on toast, surrounded with good 
 veal gravy. 
 
68 Eiis, and Row to Use ti)tm. 
 
 Oeufs Brouilles — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 d la Livingstone — Livingstone. 
 
 Eggs on toast spread with puree of goose 
 liver, or pate de foie gras. 
 
 a la Lyonaise — Lyonese Style. 
 
 Onions minced finely, smothered in butter 
 and mixed with the eggs. 
 
 a la Marseillaise — Marseille Style. 
 
 Tomatoes cooked in olive oil, mixed with 
 scrambled eggs, which, previously to being 
 cooked, were beaten in a bowl rubbed with 
 garlic. 
 
 d la Montglas — Montglas Style. 
 
 Truffles, mushrooms, cooked breast of chicken 
 and smoked beeftongue, cut in small squares, 
 stewed for a few minutes in well reduced 
 Madeira sauce, dished up in the centre of the 
 eggs. 
 
 d la Mornay — Mortiay Style. 
 
 Mushrooms and shrimps cut in dice, mixed 
 with eggs. 
 
 d la Offenbach — Offenbach Style. 
 
 Tunny, crayfish tails and anchovies cut in 
 small squares mixed with the eggs, gar- 
 nished with small puff-paste crusts filled with 
 thick tomato puree. 
 
 aux Oignons — with Onions. 
 
 Eggs mixed with chopped onions previously 
 smothered in butter. 
 
Eggs, and Row to I5s« Cbem. 69 
 
 Oeufs Brouilles — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 d la Orientale — Oriental Style. 
 
 Eggs cooked with anchovy butter dished up 
 over tomatoes cut in halves and baked in the 
 oven. 
 
 au Pain — with Bread. 
 
 Small squares of fried vsrhite bread, mixed 
 with the eggs. (In German-Switzerland this 
 dish is called Vogelheu.) 
 
 au Parmesan — with Parmesan Cheese. 
 
 Scrambled eggs mixed with grated Parmesan 
 cheese. 
 
 aux Petit Pais — with Green Peas. 
 
 Green peas mixed with the eggs. 
 
 au Petit Said Fumd — with Bacon. 
 
 Thin rashers of bacon cut in small strips, fried 
 
 and mixed with the eggs; or, the bacon may 
 
 be broiled and served as garnishing around 
 
 the eggs. 
 aux Piments Verts — with Green Peppers. 
 
 Chopped green peppers cooked in butter and 
 
 mixed with the eggs. 
 aux Pointes d'Asperges — with Asparagus Tips. 
 
 Cooked asparagus tips cut small and mixed 
 
 with the eggs. 
 a la Princesse — Princess Style. 
 
 Scrambled eggs with truffles, served in crusts 
 
 made of puff-paste; a little veal gravy served 
 
 over the eggs. 
 
70 €SSs> and Row to lise Cbem. 
 
 Oeufs Brouill6s — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 a la Provengale — Provencial Style. 
 
 Onions and tomatoes smothered in oil, mixed 
 with the eggs, and garnished with small stuffed 
 mushrooms. 
 
 a la Purde de Celeri — with Pur^e of Celery. 
 Eggs mixed with puree of celery. 
 
 a la Heine — Queen Style. 
 
 Cooked breast of chicken and truffles cut in 
 very small cubes, mixed with the eggs. Hard 
 eggs are hollowed, heated in salted water and 
 filled up with the scrambled eggs; served on 
 cream sauce. 
 
 a la Ribot — Ribot Style. 
 
 Firm fresh tomatoes are scooped out with the 
 vegetable spoon, seasoned and cooked in the 
 oven, then filled up with scrambled eggs, 
 covered with a nice slice of truffle glazed 
 over, and set on light cream sauce. 
 
 h la Caf^ Riche — Cafd Riche Style. 
 
 Eggs with lobster and truffles cut in cubes, 
 served on toast; tomato sauce finished with 
 lobster butter on the di^. 
 
 au Ris de Veau — with Sweetbread.' 
 
 Sweetbread, previously parboiled, is cut in 
 dices and cooked in butter; it may be mixed 
 thus with the eggs, or either brown or white 
 sauce may be added; if this is done the sweet- 
 bread must be dished up in the centre of the 
 eggs. 
 
€g3s, and Roto to Use Cl}tm. yi 
 
 Oeufs Brouilles — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 aux Rognons — with Kidneys. 
 
 Veal or lamb kidneys, cut in cubes, cooked 
 in very hot butter over a brisk fire. When 
 sufficiently cooked they are put into a well 
 reduced Madeira sauce and dished up in the 
 centre of the eggs. The kidneys should not 
 be allowed to boil in the sauce, nor should 
 they be overdone lest they become tough and 
 indigestible. 
 
 aux Rognons et Champignons — with Kidneys and 
 Mushrooms. 
 Same as above with the addition of mush- 
 rooms. • 
 
 au Saumon Fumi — with Smoked Salmon. 
 
 Smoked salmon cut into thin strips, cooked 
 in butter for a few minutes and mixed with 
 the eggs. 
 
 d, la Suisse — Swiss Style. 
 
 Gruy^re cheese cut in small cubes, mixed 
 with the eggs when they are done. 
 
 aux Tomatoes — with Tomatoes. 
 
 Fresh tomatoes are peeled and the seeds 
 pressed out, then cut in small pieces and 
 cooked with butter and mixed with the eggs. 
 
72 €jgs, and Row to Use CDem. 
 
 Oeufs Brouill6s — Scrambled Eggs 
 
 aux Truffes — with Truffles. 
 
 These can be served like scrambled eggs with 
 mushrooms, either with or without sauce; 
 truffles are cut into cubes, and if served with 
 sauce, put into Madeira sauce and dished 
 up in the centre of the eggs; the other way 
 the truffles are mixed with the eggs, and nice 
 slices of glazed truffles are laid on top of 
 them. 
 
 a r Union Club — Union Club Style. 
 
 Pimentos morrones, or red sweet peppers, are 
 heated in salt water and filled up with scram- 
 bled eggs and truffles; Madeira sauce on the 
 dish. 
 
Sbirrca gsss (Oeufs sur le piat)— 
 
 MANY persons have asked the writer what 
 the difference is between shirred eggs and 
 eggs au miroir. According to the modern school 
 of cookery, the difference is as follows: shirred 
 eggs are cooked in a small china dish, especially- 
 made for the purpose, and are served therein; 
 while eggs au miroir are also cooked in the same 
 kind of dish, but when done they are cut with a 
 round paste cutter, and served either on toast, 
 crusts, or the garnishing directly. These are the 
 teachings of the overrefined modern school. In 
 the good old days no difference was made between 
 a shirred egg and an egg au miroir. 
 
 In cooking shirred eggs, butter the dish lightly, 
 break into it either three or four eggs, pour hot 
 melted butter over the yolks, and cook in a slow 
 oven for a few minutes, until the yolk looks as 
 though it was covered with a veil. 
 
 The seasoning of eggs, if no sauce accompanies 
 them, should be left to the eater, as salt and 
 pepper destroy the beauty of a well cooked egg. 
 
 The following description of garnishings can 
 be adapted to either shirred eggs on the dish 
 directly, or eggs cut out and served on toasts. 
 
74 €g$s, and Row to Use Cbctn. 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat) — Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 a I'aigre doux — with Sweet- Sour Sauce. 
 (See poached eggs.) 
 
 a V Alsacienne — Alsatian Style. 
 
 Slices of boiled salt pork on the dish, grated 
 Gruyere cheese sprinkled over; eggs broken 
 on top covered with a little thick cream and 
 cooked for a few minutes in a slow oven. 
 
 aux Anchois — with Anchovies. 
 
 Chopped anchovies on the dish, eggs over 
 
 them. 
 
 h r Anglaise — English Fashion. 
 
 Broiled strips of bacon on the dish, eggs 
 over them, or the eggs may be cooked plain 
 and the bacon served on top. 
 
 CI. la Bayonnaise — Bayonne Style. 
 
 Slices of ham on the dish, eggs on top ; when 
 cooked cover with tomato sauce. 
 
 cL la Bercy — Bercy. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with small 
 sausages and tomato sauce. 
 
 au Beurre noir — luith brown (black) Butter. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, brown butter poured over. 
 Brown Butter : put two ounces of butter in a 
 frying-pan, turn the latter gently until the 
 butter becomes brown, then add atablespoon- 
 ful of vinegar. 
 
€SSs, and Row to I5sc Cbetn. 75 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat) — Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 aux Champignons — with Mushrooms. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with mush- 
 rooms cut in squares and stewed in Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 & la Chipolata — Chipolata. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with chestnuts 
 cooked in broth, glazed small onions, small 
 sausages, and Madeira sauce. 
 
 d, la Colbert — Colbert. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, covered with Colbert 
 sauce. 
 
 d. la Crime — with Cream. 
 
 Good thick cream on the dish, eggs broken 
 into the same, and cooked in a slow oven. 
 
 h la Crdole — CrMe Style. 
 
 Ham cut in small squares, onions, green pep- 
 pers and mushrooms sliced and all smothered 
 in butter, fresh tomatoes peeled, squeezed and 
 cut in quarters, and a little beef extract are 
 added, and the whole cooked for 15 minutes; 
 put this on the dish, break the eggs over it, 
 and cook in a slow oven. 
 
 d, la Derby — Derby. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with fat goose 
 liver, and mushrooms cut in squares, with 
 brown sauce. 
 
76 €.$is, and Row to Use CDent. 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat)— Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 d la Diable — Deviled. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, deviled sauce poured over. 
 
 a r Etudiante — Student's Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with stewed 
 kidneys and truffles in thick tomato sauce. 
 
 a la Fermiire — Farmer' s Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with chicken 
 livers stewed with onions and mushrooms. 
 
 a la Gouffd — Gouffe. 
 
 Same as a la Crime, with the addition of 
 grated Parmesan cheese. 
 
 au Jambon ou Lard — with Ham or Bacon. 
 
 Fried or broiled slices of ham or bacon on 
 the buttered dish, eggs broken on top, and 
 cooked in a slow oven. 
 
 a la Jockey Club — Jockey Club Style. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with veal kid- 
 neys, mushrooms, and truffles cut in squares 
 and stewed in Madeira sauce. 
 
 a la Jules Janin — Jules Janiii. 
 
 Eggs on slices of fat goose liver with tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 au Jus — with Gravy. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, with rich gravy poured 
 over when done. 
 
€S3s, and Row to Use Cbeni. 77 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat)— Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 a la Lorraine — Lorraine Fashion. 
 
 Same as h la Crime, with the addition of 
 chives and grated cheese. 
 
 a la Meyerbeer — Meyerbeer. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, with broiled lamb's kid- 
 neys and truffle sauce. 
 
 a la Montagnarde — Mountaineer s Fashion. 
 
 Eggs garnished with stewed veal, kidneys, 
 mushrooms, and small sausages in Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 a la Montargis — Montargis. 
 
 Eggs around a ragout of shredded chicken 
 livers (previously cooked), mushrooms, and 
 beef tongue, mixed with thick cream sauce, 
 besprinkled with cheese and gratinated ; when 
 done a little tomato sauce is poured around 
 the eggs. 
 
 a la Mousquetaire — Musketeer Fashion. 
 
 Eggs garnished with finely sliced lamb's kid- 
 neys and onions in cream. 
 
 ci la N^gus — Ndgus. 
 
 Eggs garnished with small chicken or game 
 
 croquettes and truffle sauce. 
 aux Oignons — with Onions. 
 
 Sliced onions smothered in butter are put on 
 
 the dish, or the eggs are cooked plain and 
 
 onion sauce is served with them. 
 
78 €$Ss, and Row to Use Cbem. 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat) — Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 a la Omer Pacha- — Omer Pacha. 
 
 Sliced onions and quartered tomatoes cooked 
 together in butter are put on the egg dish, 
 the eggs broken on top, and cooked in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 au Parmesan — with Parmesan Cheese. 
 
 The grated cheese is strewn on the buttered 
 egg dish and also some over the eggs, and 
 then cooked in a slow oven. 
 
 a la Provengale — Provencial Fashion. 
 
 Eggs garnished with halves of tomatoes 
 cooked in oil. 
 
 a la Reine — Queen Style. 
 
 Eggs garnished with breast of chicken, mush- 
 rooms and truffles cut in small squares and 
 stewed in cream. 
 
 a la Rossini — Rossini. 
 
 Eggs garnished with slices of fat goose liver 
 and truffle sauce. 
 
 aux Sardines — with Sardines. 
 
 Sardines are skinned, split and boned and 
 put on the dish, the eggs broken on top, and 
 cooked in a slow oven. 
 
 aux Saucisses — with Sausages. 
 
 Eggs cooked plain, garnished with small sau- 
 sages. 
 
€SS$> and Bow to l$s« Cbeni. 79 
 
 Shirred Eggs (Oeufs sur le Plat) — Oeufs 
 au Miroir 
 
 aux Tomates — with Tomatoes. 
 
 Eggs garnished with tomatoes stewed in 
 butter. 
 
 d, la Turbigo — Turbigo. 
 
 Eggs garnished with small broiled sausages 
 and Bordelaise sauce. 
 
 a la VMtienne. 
 
 Anchovies and sweet peppers are cut in small 
 squares, mixed with tomatoes stewed in butter 
 and put on the dish; eggs broken on top 
 and cooked in a slow oven. 
 
frm gsss. 
 
 THERE are two distinctly different methods 
 of frying eggs, one of which may be termed 
 the French, and the other the English or Ameri- 
 can method. 
 
 The French cook includes under the head of 
 frying, anything that is immersed and cooked in 
 very hot fat, either oil, lard or butter; while the 
 English and American cooks apply the term to 
 anything that is cooked with the aid of a fatty 
 substance. A French cook, to whom the English 
 or American customs are unknown, will, there- 
 fore, when asked to serve a fried egg, plunge the 
 egg into a large quantity of fat, similar to the 
 way eggs are poached in water. The English or 
 American cook would simply melt a little butter 
 in a frying-pan, break the eggs into it, and cook 
 them only on one side; or, as many do, when 
 cooking ham, or bacon and eggs, cook the meat 
 first and then fry the eggs in the remaining fat. 
 
 In addition to those two ways, poached eggs or 
 eggs mollet can also be fried; they simply need to 
 be breaded with beaten eggs and bread crumbs, 
 and then be immersed in some hot fatty substance. 
 
 It lies with the cook, or the consumer, to have 
 the eggs fried just as his taste directs. The gar- 
 
€S$s, and Row to Use Cl)em. 8i 
 
 nishings described later on can, with few excep- 
 tions, be adapted to any way in which eggs are 
 fried. 
 
 RECIPES FOR FRYING EGGS. 
 
 First or French method: Put a half pint of olive 
 oil, lard or clarified butter into a frying-pan and 
 place over a good fire; when hot, break gently 
 one by one (without bursting the yolk) into the 
 pan ; with a wooden spoon turn the white gently 
 over the yolk, so as to envelop the latter. When 
 sufficiently cooked, take the egg out with a skim- 
 mer, and put it on a napkin so that the latter 
 may absorb all the fat, then turn the egg, and 
 place over the garnishing. It is always best to 
 fry only one egg at a time. 
 
 Second method: Melt one ounce of butter in a 
 frying-pan, and when it begins to hiss break into 
 it, gently, three or four eggs, scald the yolk with 
 a little hot melted butter, and cook in a slow 
 oven for two or three minutes. 
 
 The second method is the one most commonly 
 followed by our domestic cooks. Many persons, 
 who have an aversion to fried food, can eat eggs 
 fried in this way, when it would be impossible 
 for them to do so if the eggs were fried according 
 to the first, or French method. 
 
82 ms, and Row to Use Cbem. 
 
 Fried Eggs — Oeufs Frits 
 
 A la Anglaise — English Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on fried or broiled ham or bacon. 
 
 a la Bayonnaise — Bayonne Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on broiled Bayonne ham, tomato sauce 
 over the ham. 
 
 h la Bdrenger — Birenger. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms covered with stewed toma- 
 toes, an egg fried in oil on each artichoke and 
 between each egg a small slice of broiled 
 ham. 
 
 a la Bordelaise — Bordeaux Fashion. 
 
 Eggs on Bordeaux sauce garnished with mar- 
 row and mushrooms. 
 
 h la Condd — Condd. 
 
 Eggs on a puree prepared of ^ haricots, 
 beans, and yi spinach; broiled ham as garn- 
 ishing. 
 
 h la Creole — Creole Style. 
 
 Eggs on sauce as prepared for '^Shirred Eggs 
 d. la Creole. " 
 
 h I ' Espagnole — Spanish Style. .^ 
 
 Slices of bread are dipped in beaten egg and 
 fried in oil, the ham also fried in oil is put 
 on the bread, the eggs on the ham ; tomato 
 sauce is poured over the whole. 
 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Eggs served on a bed of chopped spinach. 
 
€Sgs, and Bow to Kst Cbem. S3 
 
 Fried Eggs— Oeufs Frits 
 
 d I'huile — in Oil. 
 
 Eggs fried in oil. 
 
 au Jambou — with Ham. 
 Eggs served on ham. 
 
 a la Jules Janin — Jules Janin. 
 
 Eggs on Pat6 de foie gras toast; tomato 
 sauce poured over. 
 
 d, la Proven(ale—Provencial Fashion. 
 
 Egg fried in oil, served on halves of tomatoes 
 baked in the oven ; tomato sauce with a 
 supgon of garlic on the dish. 
 
 a la R^forme — Reform. 
 
 Eggs fried in oil served on a garnishing of 
 shredded truffles, mushrooms, beef tongue, 
 gherkins and the white of a hard boiled egg, 
 stewed in brown sauce mixed with a little red 
 currant jelly. 
 
 Fried Poached Eggs — Oeufs Poches, Frits 
 
 h. la Cdcile — Cecil. 
 
 Poached eggs dipped into beaten eggs and 
 fresh bread crumbs, then plunged into very 
 hot fat for one minute and a half; tomato 
 sauce finished with lobster butter served 
 separate. 
 
 d. la Colbert — Colbert. 
 
 Eggs cooked as above, served with Colbert 
 sauce. 
 
84 €.i&s, and Row to Use tbem. 
 
 Fried Poached Eggs— Oeufs Poches, Frits 
 
 d la Montebello — Montebello. 
 
 Eggs prepared as "<J la CMlej" Bearnaise 
 sauce mixed with puree of tomatoes served 
 separate. 
 
 a la Villeroi — Villeroi. 
 
 Poached eggs coated with Villeroi sauce. 
 When very cold they are rolled into fresh 
 bread crumbs and then dipped in beaten eggs, 
 rolled once more in bread crumbs and then 
 fried in very hot fat ; served with tomato or 
 Bernaise sauce. 
 
 Villeroi Sauce : Reduce some veloute sauce 
 with rich veal stock and some cream, until of 
 good- consistency, thicken with a few egg 
 yolks and pass through a sauce towel ; when 
 cold use for the eggs. Villeroi sauce must 
 be gelatineous or else it will not become firm 
 when cold; we therefore recommend the use 
 of veal stock. 
 
 ~J^I^*^^*'\^" 
 
tSSs in C^<^^Jte$ or (ases. 
 
 THE preparation of eggs in cocottes, or in 
 cases, is entirely the same, the difference be- 
 ing merely in the cocottes or cases themselves. 
 Cocottes have, generally, the shape of a small sauce- 
 pan, deep enough to contain one e^^ and the 
 garnishing. They are made of porcelain, and 
 have a handle attached ; however, there are some 
 of different shapes and designs. Cases are made 
 either of paper or porcelain; if the former are 
 used they should be slightly oiled on the outside, 
 and dried for a few minutes in a slow oven. This 
 is done to make them resist the humidity. To 
 handle cases easier when serving them to guests, 
 they should be put in silver stands similar to 
 those in which the glasses containing soda water 
 are served. 
 
 -Eggs cooked in china cases, or cocottes, should 
 be put in a pan surrounded with water ; they re- 
 quire to be in the oven from six to ten minutes, 
 according to the heat and the preparation. 
 
 In many recipes the cocottes, or cases, are lined 
 with a coating of forcemeat; and these certainly 
 require longer time to cook than those where 
 only a garnishing is laid on the bottom. 
 
86 €$$s, and Row to lise Cbetn. 
 
 Eggs in Cocottes— Oeufs en Cocottes 
 
 (t la Bedford — Bedford. 
 
 The cocottes are lined with liver forcemeat 
 leaving a hollow space in the centre in which 
 the raw egg is broken ; they are cooked in the 
 oven for eight to ten minutes, and before 
 serving, besprinkled with chopped beeftongue 
 and truffles. 
 
 a la Cherbourg — Cherbourg Style. 
 
 The cocottes are lined with fine fish forcemeat 
 and mixed with chopped truffles and lobster, 
 the eggs are put in the centre and cooked 
 in the oven ; when done a little tomato sauce 
 is poured on the top. 
 
 a la Crime au Gratin — Baked in Cream. 
 
 A spoonful of thick cream is put on the bot- 
 tom of the cocotte, the egg broken into it, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and covered 
 with more cream, and then cooked in the oven 
 from six to eight minutes. 
 
 a la Criole — Criole Style. 
 
 See Shirred Eggs a la CrMe. 
 
 aux Fines Herbes Cuites — with Cooked Fine Herbs. 
 Chopped shallots and mushrooms are cooked 
 in butter, when done a little chopped parsley 
 and chervil is added, this is put on the bot- 
 tom of the cocottes, the eggs broken on top 
 and cooked in the oven ; when done a little 
 rich gravy may be poured over the eggs. 
 
es^s, and Bow to I5se Cbetn. 87 
 
 Eggs in Cocottes — Oeufs en Cocottes 
 
 d, la Gouffe- — Gouffe. 
 
 Same as "Cocottes h la Crime au Gratinj" in- 
 stead of sweet cream sour cream is used, and 
 the eggs besprinkled with grated cheese. 
 
 a V Italienne — Italian Style. 
 
 Chopped shallots, onions and mushrooms are 
 cooked in butter and reduced with white 
 wine, half brown and half tomato sauce is 
 added and cooked for a while; this sauce is 
 put on the bottom of the cocottes, the eggs on 
 top and cooked in the oven for six or seven 
 minutes. 
 
 a la Leontine — Leontine. 
 
 Cocottes are lined with fish forcemeat mixed 
 with crayfish tails and truffles cut in small 
 squares, eggs broken into the centre, cooked 
 in the oven, and when done covered with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 a la Marly — Marly. 
 
 Two spoonfuls each of chopped crayfish tails 
 or lobster, chopped mushrooms and bread- 
 crumbs are mixed with one ounce of butter 
 and two yolks of eggs so as to form a smooth' 
 paste, season well, and with this line some 
 cocottes and break an egg into the centre 
 of each; cook in the oven and cover with a 
 little cream sauce before serving. 
 
ss e$ss, and Row to ISse CDent. 
 
 Eggs in Cocottes — Oeufs en Cocottes 
 
 a la Reine — Queen's Fashion. 
 
 Breast of cooked chicken, mushrooms and 
 truiHes are cut into small squares, mixed with 
 cream sauce and put on the bottom of the 
 cocottes, the eggs on top; cooked in the oven 
 for six to seven minutes. 
 
 a la Victoria — Victoria. 
 
 Lobster, mushrooms and truffles cut into 
 small squares are mixed with cream sauce 
 finished with lobster butter; this is put on the 
 bottom of the cocottes, eggs on top and 
 cooked in the oven ; when done covered with 
 tomato sauce. 
 
 Eggs in Cases — ^Oeufs en Caisses 
 
 a la Bonnefemme — Bonnefemme. 
 
 Prepare a paste of two spoonfuls each of fresh 
 bread crumbs and cooked fine herbs, two 
 yolks of eggs and one ounce of butter; line 
 the cases with this mixture, leaving a hollow 
 space in the centre, break one egg into each 
 and cook in the oven from eight to ten min- 
 utes; when done' garnish with finely-cut an- 
 chovy fillets. 
 
 a la Carola — Carola. 
 
 Cases are lined with cream chicken force- 
 meat mixed with shredded mushrooms and 
 beeftongue, the eggs broken into the centre 
 and cooked in the oven; when done they 
 are besprinkled with chopped trulHes. 
 
€g$s, and Bow to Use Chetn. 89 
 
 Eggs in Cases — Oeufs en Caisses 
 
 a la Colbert — Colbert. 
 
 The cases are lined with chicken forcemeat 
 mixed with chopped truffles, the eggs put in 
 the centre and cooked in the oven ; when 
 done covered with Colbert sauce. 
 
 aux Crevettes — with Shrimps. 
 
 Shrimps cut in squares and stewed in cream 
 are put on the bottom of the cases and the 
 eggs on top ; cooked from six to eight min- 
 utes. 
 
 a la Czarine — Czarina Style. 
 
 Cases lined with game forcemeat and chopped 
 truffles, eggs in the centre; when cooked 
 covered with brown sauce reduced with game 
 stock. 
 
 aux Ecrevisses — with Crayfish. 
 
 Prepared in the same manner as "with 
 Shrimps." 
 
 (J la Edison — Edison. 
 
 Cases lined with chicken forcemeat mixed 
 with puree of goose liver; on the bottom of 
 the case comes a layer of brown truffle sauce, 
 the egg on top of it and covered with the rest 
 of the forcemeat; cooked in a slow oven; 
 when done glazed over with beef extract. 
 
go €S$s, and Row to Use Chem. 
 
 Eggs in Cases — Oeufs en Caisses 
 
 atcx Huitres — with Oysters. 
 
 The soft part of oysters is cut in two and 
 stewed in cream sauce; this is put on the bot- 
 tom of the cases, the &^^ broken over it and 
 cooked in the oven. 
 
 a la Jaure's — Jaures. 
 
 Ham, truffles and crayfish tails cut in small 
 squares, stewed in Madeira sauce, put on the 
 bottom of the cases, eggs over it and covered 
 with a little lobster butter; when cooked a 
 glazed slice of truffle is laid on each egg. 
 
 a la Lorraine — -Lorraine Style. 
 
 Eggs in cream mixed with grated cheese and 
 chives. 
 
 a la Lucullus — Lucullus. 
 
 Puree of foie-gras mixed with chopped 
 truffles on the bottom of the cases, eggs 
 broken on top, and when cooked covered 
 with Madeira sauce. 
 
 a la Marignan — Marignan. 
 
 The cases are lined with chicken forcemeat 
 mixed with chopped mushrooms, fresh bread 
 crumbs, yolks of eggs and butter; eggs are 
 put in the centre, and when done besprinkled 
 with chopped beeftongue and truffles. 
 
€3gs, and Row to l$s« Cbem. gi 
 
 Eggs in Cases — Oeufs en Caisses 
 
 d la Monte Carlo — Monte Carlo Style. 
 
 Chopped truffles and mushrooms mixed with 
 a little beef extract put on the bottom of the 
 cases, eggs broken on top, and when cooked 
 covered with slices of truffles glazed over. 
 
 a la Montfort — Montfort. 
 
 The cases are lined with fish forcemeat mixed 
 with chopped lobster, eggs broken into the 
 centre, and when cooked covered with lob- 
 ster sauce. 
 
 a la purde de Tomate — with purde of Tomatoes. 
 
 The eggs are broken on a layer of puree of 
 tomatoes, and when cooked covered with 
 another layer of the same puree. 
 
 au Ris de Veau — with Sweetbread. 
 
 Sweetbread cut in squares and stewed in 
 cream put on the bottom of the cases, eggs 
 on top, and when done covered with a little 
 cream sauce. 
 
 aux Truffles — with Truffles. 
 
 Truffles cut in squares mixed with Madeira 
 sauce put on the bottom of the cases, eggs 
 on top, and when done covered with a slice 
 of truffle glazed over. 
 
 a la Vatel — Vatel. 
 
 Sweetbread and truffles cut in squares mixed 
 with pur6e of tomatoes ; eggs broken on top 
 and covered with thick cream; besprinkle 
 with breadcrumbs and cook in the oven. 
 
THE term timbale, in cookery, is applied to any- 
 thing having the shape of a small goblet ; the 
 meaning, however, has been greatly extended in 
 the course of time, so much so, indeed, that many 
 moulds of different shapes are termed timbales. 
 
 The preparation of eggs moulded in timbales re- 
 quires the same treatment as for eggs in cocottes, 
 or eggs in cases, with this difference only, that 
 they are not served iji moulds, but are turned out 
 upon the dish or plate, retaining the form of the 
 mould. 
 
 Eggs prepared in this manner should always 
 be cooked in the bainmaire or water bath. 
 
 Eggs Moulded in Timbales — Oeufs 
 Moulds en Timbales 
 
 a V ArUquin — -Harlequin Fashion. 
 
 Buttered timbale moulds are besprinkled 
 with chopped beeftongue, truffles and pars- 
 ley, and then lined with a thin layer of 
 chicken forcemeat, an &^^ broken in the 
 centre, and cooked in the oven from six to 
 eight minutes; served on tomato sauce. 
 
€$Ss, and l^ow to Use them. 93 
 
 Eggs Moulded in Timbales — Oeufs 
 Moul6s en Timbales 
 
 ^ la Cardinal — Cardinal Style. 
 
 Buttered timbale moulds besprinkled with 
 chopped lobster coral, an egg broken in each, 
 and cooked for six minutes; served with lob- 
 ster sauce. 
 
 a la Colbert — Colbert. 
 
 Buttered timbale moulds, fancifully decor- 
 ated with truffles, are lined with a thin layer 
 of chicken forcemeat; eggs in the centre; 
 cooked as usual and served with Colbert 
 sauce. 
 
 b, la Comtesse — Countess Fashion. 
 
 Timbale moulds are lined as d, la Colbert, and 
 filled with scrambled eggs with asparagus 
 tips, cooked just long enough until the force- 
 meat is done ; served on veloute cream sauce. 
 
 d, la Coquelicot — Coquelicot. 
 
 Parboiled sweet red peppers are put into 
 buttered timbale moulds so that they adopt 
 the shape of the mould, eggs broken into 
 them and cooked as usual ; served with cream 
 sauce. 
 
 h la Henri IV. — Henry IV. 
 
 Eggs cooked in moulds and served with Ber- 
 naise sauce. 
 
94 esss, and Boiu to Use Cbent. 
 
 Eggs Moulded in Timbales— Oeufs 
 Moules en Timbales 
 
 a la Maintenon — Maintenon. 
 
 Moulds besprinkled with chopped beef- 
 tongue, truffles and parsley; eggs cooked as 
 usual ; served with truffle sauce. 
 
 a la Mardchale — Mar^chale. 
 
 Timbale moulds buttered with anchovy but- 
 ter, one &%,%, and the yolk of one e.^% put in 
 each mould, cooked very soft and served 
 with anchovy sauce. 
 
 h la Polignac — Polignac. 
 
 Timbale moulds besprinkled with chopped 
 truffles; eggs cooked as usual; served with 
 Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 a la purie d'Asperges — with purie of Asparagus. 
 
 d. la purSe de Marron — with purde of Chestnuts. 
 
 d. la purde de Tomates — with purde of Tomatoes. 
 
 Eggs moulded in timbales can be served with 
 a, great variety of pur6qs; the moulds can be 
 decorated according to the eaters or the cook's 
 own taste. 
 The pur6e is served under the eggs. 
 
 h la Scobeleff — Scobeleff. 
 
 Eggs cooked in moulds and served with rich 
 taragon gravy. 
 
para gsss. $tuma ggss. 
 O^^ €sss. 
 
 IN order that eggs should be properly hard 
 boiled, they should be put into boiling water 
 and allowed to remain there ten minutes, and 
 then cooled off in cold water. If cooked longer 
 than ten minutes the yolk will acquire a blackish 
 tint, and the white will exhale a disagreeable 
 odor. A peculiar fact, which few persons are 
 aware of, is that eggs which are cooked and 
 cooled off, and then prove to be not sufficiently 
 done, cannot be cooked any more if put back 
 again into the boiling water. Hard boiled eggs 
 can be kept a long time without decomposing, 
 and they are therefore a very handy article of 
 food for travelers. 
 
 Stuffed eggs are usually prepared from hard 
 eggs; the yolk is taken out and mixed with some 
 sauce and other ingredients, and then put back 
 into the egg. 
 
 Eggs cooked in any style can be eaten when 
 cold, though hard boiled eggs are most common- 
 ly eaten in that way. 
 
96 €Sds, ana Bow to Use Cbem. 
 
 Hard Eggs— Oeufs Durs 
 
 ^ r Aurore — Aurora. 
 
 Hard eggs, of which the yolk is retained, are 
 cut in slices and mixed with cream sauce, put 
 into a dish and besprinkled with the yolks 
 which are squeezed through a wire sieve, and 
 some melted butter; put in the oven for a few 
 minutes and served before they are browned 
 too much. 
 
 a la Bechamel — Bdchamel. 
 
 Hard eggs cut lengthwise in four; cream 
 sauce poured over and gratinated. 
 
 h la Bernardine — Bernardine. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in slices and covered with cray- 
 fish sauce mixed with pur6e of onions. 
 
 a la Chicor^e — with Chicory. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in quarters, served on a bed of 
 chicory, surrounded with rich gravy. 
 
 En Coquille — in Shells. 
 
 Most of the different styles in which hard 
 eggs are cooked can be served in shells; this 
 way of serving them is especially recom- 
 mendable to facilitate the service. 
 
 h la Dreux — Dreux. 
 
 Sliced hard boiled eggs mixed with cream 
 sauce and garnished with sliced truiBes, 
 mushrooms and ham, put in shells and grati- 
 nated. 
 
esss, and Bow to lise Cl)em. 97 
 
 Hard Eggs — Oeufs Durs 
 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Hard eggs cut lengthwise in quarters on a 
 bed of chopped spinach surrounded with rich 
 gravy. 
 
 a la Hongroise — Hungarian Fashion. 
 
 Same as "£ggs ti la Tripe," with the addition 
 of fine herbs and Paprika pepper. 
 
 h. I' Indienne — Indian Style. 
 
 Eggs cut in halves on a bed of boiled rice 
 surrounded with cream curry sauce. 
 
 ^ la Mattre d'BStel—Maitre d'Hdtel. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in slices arranged on a dish 
 and covered with maitre d'hotel butter. 
 
 a la Mathurin — Mathurin. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in slices, arranged on a dish 
 by layers, alternated with the soft part of oys- 
 ters cooked in white wine, and sliced onions 
 smothered in butter and mixed with matelote 
 sauce. 
 
 ci la Norfolk — Norfolk Fashion. 
 
 Hard eggs cut lengthwise in halves, dipped 
 into beaten eggs and rolled in fresh bread 
 crumbs, fried in hot fat and served with 
 piquant sauce. 
 
 aux Nouilles A la Italienne — with Noodles, Italian 
 Fashion. 
 Border of noodles with hard eggs cut in 
 quarters and covered with tomato sauce in 
 the centre. 
 
g8 Ei$s, and l70w to ISse Cbem. 
 
 Hard Eggs — Oeufs Durs 
 
 a V Oseille- — with Sorrel. 
 
 Eggs cut in quarters on a bed of sorrel sur- 
 rounded with rich gravy. 
 
 a la Religieuse — Nun's Fashion. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in slices, covered with butter 
 mixed with cheese and lightly gratinated. 
 
 a la Robert — Robert. 
 
 Hard eggs cut in quarters with onions and 
 mustard sauce. 
 
 a la Soubise — Soubise. 
 
 Eggs cut in quarters served with cream onion 
 puree. 
 
 a la Tripe- — as Tripe. 
 
 Minced onions are lightly smothered in but- 
 ter and mixed with cream sauce; hard eggs 
 cut in slices added to it and heated without 
 boiling. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs (hard) — Oeufs Farcis 
 
 a V Allemande — German Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cut in halves, the yolk taken out and 
 mixed with a stuffing" prepared with bread 
 soaked in milk ; two whole eggs and the 
 yolk of three raw ones, seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and nutmeg; the eggs are stuffed with 
 this mixture, the rest is diluted with cream 
 and put on a dish, the eggs on top, besprinkled 
 with bread crumbs and melted butter and 
 baked in the oven. 
 
€3^5, and Row to Use Cbem. 99 
 
 Stuffed Eggs (hard) — Oeufs Farcis 
 
 d la d'Ann/cy — d' Annecy. 
 
 Eggs cut in halves, the yolks cut up and 
 mixed with chopped onions and mushrooms 
 previously cooked in butter, some raw yolk 
 of egg is added, and the mixture put back in 
 the eggs and gratinated ; serve with cream 
 sauce. 
 
 a la Bennet — Bennet. 
 
 Eggs cut in halves or in the shape of a barrel, 
 the yolk taken out and mixed with chopped 
 anchovies, fine herbs and some cream sauce; 
 the eggs are filled with this and put on a shir- 
 red egg dish, besprinkled with bread crumbs 
 and melted butter; baked in the oven. 
 
 h la Carmelite — Carmelite. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with onions, parsely, sorrel, and 
 the chopped yolks, baked in the oven. 
 
 aux Champignons — with Mushrooms. 
 
 Mushrooms cut in small squares, mixed 
 with the chopped yolks of eggs and some 
 white sauce; the eggs stuffed with this mix- 
 ture, dipped in beaten eggs and rolled in 
 bread crumbs and fried in hot fat. 
 
 '7 la Chassevr^Hvnter s Fashion. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with game forcemeat; served 
 with brown sauce. 
 
TOO eggs, and Bow to Use tDem. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs (hard) — Oeufs Farcis 
 
 a la Comtesse — Countess Style. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise in halves, the yolk taken 
 out and pounded with cooked chicken, some 
 butter and a little cream sauce; baked in the 
 oven, and served over a pur^e of cauliflower. 
 
 a la Constance — Constance. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with chicken, ham and mush- 
 rooms cut in small cubes, mixed with the 
 chopped yolk and some cream sauce; grati- 
 nated and served with cream sauce. 
 
 a la Dauphine — Dauphine. 
 
 Eggs stuffed M'ith chicken, and the yolks of 
 eggs pounded together with cream sauce, 
 baked in the oven; served with Maderia 
 sauce. 
 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Eggs cut in barrel shape, the yolk taken out, 
 filled with spinach, a round slice of beef- 
 tongue of the same circumference as the egg 
 is placed on top of each; served with a rich 
 gravy. 
 
 a la Fedora — Fedora. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with a puree of gooseliver mixed 
 with the chopped yolk served with truffle 
 sauce. 
 
€.S$s, and Row to Use Cbcm. loi 
 
 Stuffed Eggs (hard) — Oeufs Farcis 
 
 (i la Garfield — Garfield. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with forcemeat made of cooked 
 chicken, ham and the yolk of eggs mixed with 
 cream sauce, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in 
 bread crumbs and fried in hot fat; served 
 with piquant sauce. 
 
 aux Huitres — with Oysters. 
 
 Soft part of oysters cut in four, cooked with 
 white wine, mixed with cream sauce and the 
 chopped yolks of eggs. Eggs stuffed with 
 this, besprinkled with bread crumbs and 
 melted butter and then gratinated. 
 
 a V Indienne — Indian Style. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with curried rice mixed with the 
 chopped yolk and cream sauce. 
 
 a V Italienne — Italian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, stuffed with 
 shallots, mushrooms and fine herbs cooked 
 in butter and mixed with the chopped yolks 
 of eggs, dipped in beaten eggs rolled in bread 
 crumbs, fried in hot fat and served with to- 
 mato sauce. 
 
[02 eggs, and Bou) to Use Cbem. 
 
 Cold Eggs — Oeufs Froids 
 
 Ell Aspic — ill Jelly. 
 
 Jelly may be obtained from many different 
 materials, but what is most commonly used 
 nowadays, and which fully covers the purpose 
 is prepared gelatine. Science has given ample 
 proof that jelly contains no substantial nutri- 
 ment even if made exclusively with calf's feet. 
 Prepare with one pint of good stock and with 
 one ounce of Keystone Silver White Gelatine , 
 some jelly well seasoned and perfumed with 
 half glass each of Maderia and white wine, 
 fine herbs, spices, etc. Put some tartelet or 
 small oval pudding moulds on ice, and with 
 a round soft brush apply some of the cold 
 though not stiffened jelly; after a coating of 
 one-eighth of an inch of jelly is applied, 
 decorate it to your fancy with ham, beef- 
 tongue, truffles, green peas, white of hard 
 boiled egg, gherkins, tarragon leaves, chervil, 
 lobster coral, etc. Have some hard boiled 
 eggs peeled and cut lengthwise into halves, 
 lay half of an egg in each pan and fill up b}'^ 
 degrees with the remaining jelly; leave stand 
 until quite firm; dip the moulds into warm 
 water and turn out its contents on a dish. 
 Egg mollet, or poached eggs, maybe used in- 
 stead of the hard boiled, or in place of using 
 small moulds one large one may be employed. 
 
 En Belle-vue — in Belle-vue. 
 Same as the above. 
 
€SS$> and Row to lis« CDem. 103 
 
 Cold Eggs — Oeufs Froids 
 
 au Beurre d'Anchois — with Anchovy Butter. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves put on oval 
 shaped toasts and decorated with anchovy- 
 butter. 
 
 au Beurre de Montpellier — with Montpellier Butter. 
 Same as the aforesaid; instead of anchovy- 
 butter use butter pounded with parsley, 
 tarragon, chervil, chives, capers, gherkins 
 and some yolks of hard boiled eggs passed 
 through a fine hair sieve ; if not green 
 enough, color with spinach green or Breton 
 coloring. 
 
 h la Boulonaise — Boulogne Style. 
 
 Egg mollet dished around a salad prepared of 
 cauliflower, crayfish, crabmeat, mussels, well 
 seasoned with French mustard and fine herbs. 
 
 a la Cumberland — Cumberland. 
 
 Equal quantities of cooked chicken breast, 
 ham, pate de foie gras and fresh grated Par- 
 mesan cheese pounded together and passed 
 through a fine sieve; put some of this force- 
 meat on oval shaped slices of toast and place 
 on each part of an egg cut lengthwise into 
 half, and then cut in slices; between each 
 slice put some finely cut beeftongue and gher- 
 kins, and decorate with jelly. 
 
 h la Danoise — Danish Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, filled with 
 lobster salad covered with Mayonaise sauce 
 and decorated. 
 
I04 esss, and Row to Use Cl)em. 
 
 Cold Eggs — Oeufs Froids 
 
 a I 'Estragon — with Tarragon. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, decorated 
 with parboiled tarragon leaves and covered 
 with jelly flavored with tarragon. 
 
 a la Justine — Justine. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves scooped out 
 and stuffed with a puree of pheasant mixed 
 with whipped cream and covered with Cham- 
 froid sauce, reduced with game stock ; when 
 cold decorate with truffles and gherkins. 
 
 Ma rines — Pickled. 
 
 Hard eggs peeled and put into a jar; boiling 
 vinegar flavored with spices and fine herbs 
 poured over; ready for use in three or four 
 days. 
 
 a la Mayonaise—with Mayonaise. 
 
 Hard eggs sliced and covered with May- 
 onaise sauce. 
 
 d, la Mentonnaise — Menton Style. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, the yolk 
 taken out chopped with anchovies and capers. 
 Eggs are filled with this stuffing and a slice 
 of tunny laid on each ; decorated with jelly. 
 
 a la Moscovite — Moscow Style. 
 
 Eggs stuffed with Russian salad. 
 
€gSs, ana How to Use Cl>tm. 105 
 
 Cold Eggs — Oeufs Froids 
 
 i la Norvegidnne — Norvegian Fashion. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, yolks chop- 
 ped with anchovies; white part of the eggs 
 filled with this stuffing and decorated with 
 stuffed olives and anchovies cut in strips. 
 
 a la Polonaise — Polish Style. 
 
 Egg filled with salad prepared of lobster, 
 pickled oysters, and gherkins mixed with 
 Mayonaise sauce. 
 
 a la Russe — Russian Style. 
 
 Eggs cut lengthwise into halves, the yolks 
 scooped out, white part stuffed with caviare, 
 and decorated with strips of anchovies and 
 the chopped yolks. 
 
 en Salade — Salad. 
 
 Hard eggs cut lengthwise into quarters sea- 
 soned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil, 
 dressed on nice leaves of lettuce, and before 
 serving besprinkle with fine herbs. 
 
 en Sandwich — Sandwich. 
 
 Buttered slices of bread with eggs cut in slices 
 between. 
 
 Any variety of q^^ sandwiches can be served, 
 using Mayonaise or anchovy butter for mois- 
 tening the bread, adding watercress, lettuce 
 leaves, fine herbs, etc., to the eggs. 
 
 a la Strassbourgeoise — Strassbourg Style. 
 
 Eggs filled with puree of pate de foie gras 
 and served on Madeira jelly. 
 
BRILLAT SAVARIN remarked very justly 
 that, for an omelet to be exellent, it should 
 never be made of more than twelve eggs. The 
 writer goes still further, and says that, not more 
 than eight eggs — and if the cook is not an adept 
 in his profession, not more than six — should be 
 used, as the production of an omelet, worthy of the 
 name, is more difficult than many persons sup-' 
 pose, or than some are willing to admit. 
 
 Three most important rules are to be followed 
 in the preparation of an omelet. 
 
 First: the omelet pan must be extremely clean, 
 and never used for any other purpose. When not 
 in use, it should always be left a little greasy; 
 neither water nor any other liquid should ever 
 come in contact with it. To clean the pan it 
 should be slightly heated, and then rubbed with 
 fine kitchen salt and a coarse towel, care being 
 taken that the pan never ^becomes red-hot, as 
 otherwise it is liable to become rough. 
 
 Second: the eggs should be well beaten. Cooks 
 who have a reputation for exactness of method, 
 strain the eggs through a towel or a strainer, which 
 gives the most satisfactory result, as the whites 
 and the yolks become well mixed, and the omelet, 
 when cooked, will not show those little white 
 
eggs, and Row to Use Cbem. 107 
 
 spots which are so often seen in omelets, and 
 which prove either the ignorance of the cook or 
 his negligence in the preparation of them. 
 
 Third: an omelet must always be cooked over 
 a brisk fire; and here is where the ability of the 
 cook is fully tested, as "the quicker the omelet is 
 made the better it is. 
 
 Some cooks take pride in cooking omelets 
 without stirring the eggs with a fork or a spoon, 
 and it is true that some may succeed in this way; 
 but, as a rule such omelets are not so delicate as 
 when the eggs are stirred while cooking. It is 
 advisable to use a kitchen spoon for that purpose, 
 as forks or other sharp utensils are likely to 
 scratch the pan. 
 
 RECIPE FOR OMELETS. 
 
 Break six fresh eggs into a bowl, add a suffi- 
 cient quantity of salt and pepper, and for every 
 three eggs add one tablespoonful of thick cream ; 
 beat the egg well with an egg whisk, or a fork, 
 and strain into another bowl. Put tv/o ounces of 
 butter into the omelet pan, and when it is melted 
 without being browned, turn in the eggs; stir 
 continually with a kitchen spoon so that all the 
 eggs are equally well cooked and are of the same 
 consistency, keeping it very soft; leave it for two 
 or three seconds without stirring, and then fold 
 it into three layers, beginning with the side near- 
 est the handle; this can be done with the spoon. 
 Knock the bottom of the pan gently over the 
 
io8 €SSs, and Boio to lise tl)em. 
 
 range so as to make the omelet move towards the 
 outer part of the pan, and then fold the other part 
 so that the omelet is a long oval in shape. 
 
 To turn it out upon the dish, grasp the handle 
 of the pan with the right hand, the thumb being 
 uppermost and the palm of the hand underneath; 
 hold the dish in the left hand, place the edge of 
 the pan on the inner side of the dish, and turn the 
 pan upside down, moving from right to left. 
 
 AH this should take but three or four minutes, 
 and at the same time exercising the greatest care 
 not to overcook the omelet, as it is so much 
 more diflficult to fold when too greatly solidified. 
 
 Some persons like omelets of a golden hue, and 
 to attain this it is only necessary, when the ome- 
 let is folded, to leave it over the fire for a few 
 seconds. Fiat omelets are served occasionally, 
 but they are not so delicate by far as those made 
 according to the above recipe. 
 
 In the following recipes the terms filled and 
 garnished are applied. Filled means that the 
 omelet should be stuffed inside before folding, 
 and garnished means that the omelet when folded 
 and on the dish should be adorned with the gar- 
 nishing. Sweet omelets are described under a 
 special heading. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 d I' Ail — with Garlic. 
 
 The bowl in which the eggs for the omelet 
 are beaten is previously rubbed with garlic. 
 
€$$s, and Row to list Cbem. 109 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 d i'Alge'rienne — Algerian Style. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with artichoke 
 bottoms cut in squares, and stewed in tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 a V Americaine — American Fashiofi. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with lobster cut 
 in cubes, and stewed with tomatoes and fine 
 herbs. 
 
 a I'Anglaise — English Style. 
 
 Plain omelet garnished with broiled strips 
 of bacon. 
 
 aux Asperges — with Asparagus Tips. 
 
 Omelet garnished with cooked asparagus tips 
 tossed in butter. Asparagus tips may also be 
 mixed with the omelet. 
 
 a la Bayonnaise — Bayonne Style. 
 
 Omelet filled with ham and red pepper cut in 
 squares, surrounded with tomato sauce. 
 
 a la B^arnaise — Bifarnaise. 
 
 Omelet filled with mushrooms and artichoke 
 bottoms cut in squares and stewed in tomato 
 sauce. The top of the omelet garnished with 
 rings of anchovy fillets into which some cold 
 Bernaise sauce is put. 
 
 aux apes — with Cipes. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with c^pes cut in 
 dice, fried in oil and stewed in brown sauce. 
 
no €SSs, and Row to I5se Cl)em. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 a la Cervelle — with Brains. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with calf's brains 
 cut in squares and stewed in cream sauce. 
 
 aux Champignons — with Mushrooms. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with mushrooms 
 cut in squares and stewed in Madeira sauce. 
 
 (X la Charcutiere — Pork Butchers' Fashion. 
 
 Omelet with bacon and onions, garnished 
 with slices of bloodpudding and surrounded 
 with mustard sauce. 
 
 des Chasseurs — Hunter' s Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled with puree of game, surrounded 
 with Madeira sauce reduced with game stock. 
 
 a la Chdtelaine — Chatelaine. 
 
 Omelet filled with mushrooms, truffles, breast 
 of partridge and salt pork cut in squares and 
 stewed in brown sauce. 
 
 a la Ciboulette — with Chives. 
 
 Chives mixed with the beaten eggs. 
 
 aux Clams — with Hard Clams. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with the belly 
 part — i. e., the soft. part of clams stewed in 
 cream. 
 
 aux Concombres — with Cucumbers. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with cucumbers 
 stewed in cream. 
 
€Sgs, and Boio to lisc Chem. m 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 aiix Crabes Dtirs — with Hard Crabs. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with crab meat 
 stewed in cream. 
 
 aux Crabes d'Huitres — with Oyster Crabs. 
 
 This omelet may be served in three different 
 ways. 
 
 1. Plain omelet garnished with fried oyster 
 crabs. 
 
 2. Oyster crabs fried in butter and mixed 
 with the beaten eggs. 
 
 3. Omelet filled and garnished with oyster 
 crabs stewed in cream. 
 
 aux Crevettes — with Shrimps. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with shrimps 
 stewed in cream. 
 
 d. la Derby — Derby. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with fat goose- 
 liver and mushrooms cut in squares and 
 stewed in Madeira sauce. 
 
 a la Dieppoise — Dieppe Style. 
 
 Omelet with fine herbs, filled with mussels 
 and mushrooms stewed in white wine sauce. 
 
 h la Durand — Durand. 
 
 Omelet filled with asparagus tips and truiBes 
 tossed in butter, garnished with artichoke 
 bottoms and mushrooms cut fine and stewed 
 in cream. 
 
112 eggs, and Bow to Use CDem. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 a I ' Ecarlate — Ecarlate. 
 
 Thick puree of tomatoes well beaten up with 
 the eggs in order that they may obtain a red 
 tint; omelet covered with tomato sauce. 
 
 aux Ecrevisses — with Crayfish. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with crayfish 
 stewed in cream. 
 
 a V Egyptienne — Egyptian Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with sliced 
 breasts of quails and truffles stewed in brown 
 sauce. 
 
 aux Epinards — with Spinach. 
 
 Omelet filled with spinach and surrounded 
 with rich gravy. 
 
 d, r Espagnole— Spanish Style. 
 
 Finely shredded onions and green peppers 
 smothered in oil with ham cut in squares; 
 when sufficiently cooked add some peeled 
 and squeezed tomatoes cut into eight parts, 
 or if the tomatoes are large, in still more 
 parts; stew gently for ten to twelve min- 
 utes, add some beef extract and fill and gar- 
 nish the omelet with this preparation. Some- 
 times shrimps, oysters or sweetbread are 
 added to the above. 
 
 ^ V Estragon — 7i'ith Tarragon. 
 
 Chopped tarragon mixed with the eggs. 
 
€$Ss, and Row to Use Cbctn. 113 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 aux Fines Herbes — with Fine Herbs. 
 
 Eggs for omelet mixed with finely chopped 
 parsley, chives and chervil 
 
 aux Fines Herbes Cuites — with Cooked Fine Herbs. 
 Eggs for omelet mixed with previously cooked 
 and chopped shallots, mushrooms, parsley 
 and chervil. 
 
 a la Flamande — Flemmish Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled with spinach and garnished 
 with calf's brains and brown sauce. 
 
 aux Fleurs de Courge — with Pu?npkin Buds. 
 
 Pumpkin buds cut small, fried slightly in 
 butter and mixed with the beaten eggs. 
 
 aux Foies de Volailles — with Chicken Livers. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with chicken 
 livers cut in squares and stewed in Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 aux Fonds d' Artichauts — with Artichoke Bottoms. 
 Artichoke bottoms cut in squares, fried in 
 butter and mixed with the beaten eggs. 
 
 au Frontage — with Cheese. 
 
 Grated cheese mixed with beaten eggs; the 
 best sorts of cheese for this purpose are Par- 
 mesan or Gruyere. 
 
 ail Hareng Saur — with Smoked Herritig. 
 
 Smoked herring, boned and cut in small 
 squares, fried in butter and mixed with the 
 beaten eggs. 
 
114 esss, and Bow to Use Cbem. 
 
 Omelette— Omelet 
 
 a la Hollandaise — Dutch Style. 
 
 The yolk of the eggs mixed with fine herbs, 
 the whites well whisked to froth and mixed 
 with the yolks; flat omelets are prepared 
 from this mixture and served with sliced 
 smoked salmon. 
 
 au Homard — with Lobster. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with lobster cut 
 in squares and stewed in cream. 
 
 aux Huttres — with Oysters. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with the soft part 
 of the oysters stewed in white wine and cream 
 sauce. 
 
 h V Imperatrice — Empress Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with soft part of 
 oysters and sliced breast of chicken stewed 
 in cream. 
 
 a rindienne — Indian Style. , 
 
 Onions finely sliced, smothered in butter and 
 mixed with the beaten eggs; seasoned with 
 curry powder; omelet filled with boiled rice 
 and served with curry cream sauce. 
 
 au Jamhon — with Ham. 
 
 Ham cut in small squares, fried in butter and 
 mixed with the beaten eggs. 
 
esjs, and Row to ISse Cbem. 115 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 d la Jardiniire — Gardener s Fashion. 
 
 Onions sliced fine, smothered in butter and 
 then mixed with the eggs; omelet filled and 
 garnished with carrots, turnips, peas, beans, 
 artichokes and mushrooms cut in squares and 
 stewed in cream ; tomato sauce around the 
 omelet. 
 
 au Jus — with Gravy. 
 
 Plain omelet surrounded with rich gravy. 
 
 a la Lanque de Boeuf Fum^e — -with Smoked Beef- 
 tongue. 
 Same as ^'Omelet au Jambon." 
 
 au Lard — with Bacon. 
 
 1. The beaten eggs mixed with small pieces of 
 fried bacon. 
 
 2. Omelet garnished with broiled strips of 
 bacon. 
 
 h la Lyonnaise — Lyonese Fashion. 
 
 Onions sliced finely and smothered in butter, 
 mixed with the beaten eggs and some grated 
 parmesan cheese. 
 
 a la Macidoine — MacMoine. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with different 
 kinds of vegetables stewed in cream. 
 
 a la Maitre d'Jfdtel — Maitre d'H6tel. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with sweetbreads 
 cut in squares, cooked in butter with fine 
 herbs and beef extract. 
 
ii6 €SSs, and Roio to Use tbem. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 ties Matelots — Sailors' Fashion. 
 
 The bowl in which the eggs for the omelet 
 are beaten is rubbed with garlic; anchovies 
 cut in small squares mixed with the eggs, 
 omelet garnished with slices of smoked sal- 
 mon and surrounded with tomato sauce. 
 
 a ta MMicis — Mddicis. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with breast of 
 quail, truffles, and mushrooms cut in squares 
 and stewed in Madeira sauce. 
 
 a la M^xicaine — Mexican Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with shrimps 
 and sweet peppers cut small and stewed in 
 shrimp sauce. 
 
 a la Milanaise — Milanese Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with spaghetti 
 cut one inch long and mixed with shredded 
 truffles, ham, mushrooms, tomato sauce and 
 grated parmesan cheese. 
 
 a la Moelle de Boeuf — with Beef Marrow. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with beef marrow 
 cut in squares, parboiled and stewed in brown 
 sauce. 
 
 h la Monselet — Monselet. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with truffles and 
 artichokes cut in squares and stewed in cream ; 
 tomato sauce with beef extract around the 
 omelet. 
 
€.S&s, and now to Use CDem. 117 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 d la Montglas — Montglas. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with ragout as 
 for poached eggs. (See "Poached Eggs 
 Montglas."^ 
 
 a la Mornay — Mornay. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with sliced truf- 
 fles and chicken stewed in cream sauce. 
 
 aicx Monies — with Mussels. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with mussels 
 stewed in white wine and cream. 
 
 a la Moussline — Foam Omelet. 
 
 The whites of eggs are well whisked to a stiff 
 froth and mixed with the yolks; cooked as 
 usual. 
 
 a, la Mousseline au Parmesan — Foam Omelet with 
 Parmesan Cheese. 
 Same as above with the addition of grated 
 parmesan cheese to the eggs. 
 
 a la Nantua — Nantua Fashion. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with crayfish 
 and trufHes stewed in cream sauce with cray- 
 fish butter. 
 
 a la Normande — Norman Style. 
 
 Omelet filled with oysters and shrimps and 
 garnished with very small fried smelts. 
 
n8 eggs, and Bow to Use Chem. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 aux Oeufs d'Alose — with Shad Roe. 
 
 1. Shad roe cut in small squares, fried in 
 butter and mixed with the omelet. 
 
 2. Omelet filled and garnished with shad roe 
 previously cooked and then cut in squares 
 and stewed in cream. 
 
 aux Oignons — with Onions. 
 
 Onions sliced very fine, smothered in butter 
 and then mixed with the beaten eggs. 
 
 aux Oignons Nouveaitx—with Spring Onions. 
 
 Omelet garnished with small glazed spring 
 
 onions. 
 aux Olives — with Olives. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with small olives 
 
 stewed in brown sauce. 
 
 aux Olives Farcies — with Stuffed Olives. 
 
 1. Same as above only use olives stuffed with 
 chicken forcemeat and chopped trufHes. 
 
 2. Stuffed olives mixed with beaten eggs; 
 omelet cooked in the usual way. 
 
 a rOseille — with Sorrel. 
 
 Sorrel cleaned and cut fine; cooked in butter 
 until dry, and then mixed with the beaten 
 eggs. 
 
 a la Parisienne — Parisian Style. 
 
 Omelet as "a la Mousseline" with the addition 
 of chopped shallots, mushrooms, parsley, and 
 ham cooked in butter. 
 
eggs, and Roiu to I5se CD«m. ng 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 au Parmesan — with Parmesan Cheese. 
 
 Beaten eggs mixed with grated parmesan 
 cheese. 
 
 ct la Paysanne — Farmers' Fashion. 
 
 Tomatoes peeled and well squeezed, cut up 
 and cooked in butter until all humidity is 
 evaporated ; then mixed with the beaten eggs 
 and the omelet cooked as usual ; served 
 with brown sauce or rich gravy and garnished 
 with little crusts, filled with puree of onions. 
 
 au Persil — with Parsley. 
 
 Chopped parsley mixed with eggs. 
 
 aux Petits Pais — with Green Peas. 
 
 Green peas mixed with beaten eggs. 
 
 aux Piments Verts — with Green Peppers. 
 
 Chopped green peppers cooked in butter and 
 mixed with beaten eggs. 
 
 aux Pointes d'Asperges — with Asparagus Tips. 
 
 1. Cooked asparagus tips cut in small pieces 
 and mixed with the eggs. 
 
 2. Omelet filled and garnished with cooked 
 asparagus tips stewed in cream sauce. 
 
 aux Pointes de Houblon — with Hop Sprigs. 
 Can be prepared as the above. 
 
 aux Pommes de Terre — with Potatoes. 
 
 Raw potatoes cut in small squares fried in 
 butter and mixed with the eggs. 
 
I20 ms, and Row to Use Cbem. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 A la Portugaise — Portuguese Style. 
 
 Chopped fine herbs, olives, and anchovies 
 mixed with the eggs; omelet surrounded 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
 des Prelats — Prelate Fashion. 
 
 Omelet garnished and filled with herrings' 
 soft roe, crab meat, crayfish tails, mushrooms 
 and truffles stewed in white wine sauce. 
 
 a la Provenfale — Provencial Style. 
 
 Omelet filled with minced onions and garlic 
 smothered in oil, and surrounded with tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 a la pur ^e d'Artichauts — with pur ^e of Artichokes. 
 
 a la puree d'Asperges — with puree of Asparagus. 
 
 a la puree de Champignons — with purSe of Mushrooms. 
 
 a la puree de Chouxfleiirs — with puree of Cauliflower. 
 
 h la pur ^e d'Oseille — with pur^e of Sorrel. 
 
 a la purSe de Tomates — with pur^e of Tomatoes. 
 
 h- la purde de Volaille — with pur^e of Fowl. 
 
 Omelets like poached eggs, or egg mollets, 
 can be served with a great variety of purees; 
 the omelet is filled with the puree and sur- 
 rounded with gravy or brown sauce. 
 
 a la RSforme — Reform Club Style. 
 
 Same garnishing as for '■'■Fried Eggs a la Re- 
 forme." 
 
€$$s, and Row to lise Cbeni. 121 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 aux Ris de Veau — with Sweetbread. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with sweetbread 
 cut in squares and stewed in cream. 
 
 a la Robert — Robert Fashion. 
 
 Omelet with onions and bacon. 
 
 aux Rognons de Mouton — 7mth Mutton Kidneys. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with mutton kid- 
 neys cut in squares and stewed in Madeira 
 sauce. 
 
 aux Rognons de Veau — with Veal Kidneys. 
 Same as above. 
 
 a la Russe — Russian Style. 
 
 Small omelet filled with caviare; generally 
 served cold; but it can be served hot also. 
 
 aux Soft Clams — with Soft Clams. 
 
 Prepared as with "Hard Clams;" should the 
 
 soft clams be too large, they may be cut into 
 
 halves, but it is preferable to have them small. 
 a la Soubise — Soubise. 
 
 Omelet filled with white puree of onions. 
 d, la Suisse — Swiss Style. 
 
 Guyere cheese cut in small squares and 
 
 mixed with the eggs. 
 Tricolores — in Three Colors. 
 
 Small omelets of which one is cooked plain; 
 
 one mixed with thick puree of tomatoes and 
 
 one as explained for ^^ omelette verte" or green 
 
 omelet. 
 
122 es$s, ana Row to Use CDeiti. 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 au Thon a la Brillat-Savarin — with Tunny Brillat- 
 Savarin Style. 
 The soft roe of carp cooked in water for a 
 few minutes is chopped with some tunny, 
 then cooked in butter with chopped shallots 
 and mixed with the beaten eggs. Omelet 
 cooked as usual and served on a dish with 
 melted maitre d'hotel butter. 
 (See Brillat-Savarin's Omelette du Curd in his 
 Physiologie du Goiit.) 
 
 aux Tomates — with Tomatoes. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with tomatoes 
 previously peeled, squeezed, cut in quarters 
 and then stewed in butter. 
 
 aux Truffes — with Truffles. 
 
 1. Truffles cut in squares and mixed with the 
 beaten eggs; omelet surrounded with gravy. 
 
 2. Omelet filled and garnished with truffles 
 cut in squares and stewed in Madeira sauce. 
 
 Verte — Green Omelet. 
 
 Chopped parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, 
 spinach and sorrel (the two latter previously 
 cooked in butter) are mixed with the eggs; 
 omelet cooked as usual. 
 
 des Voyageurs — Travelers' Omelet. 
 
 Omelet cooked flat, put on a plate until cold 
 and then filled with a puree prepared of 
 cooked ham, chicken, and butter, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and mustard; the omelet is 
 rolled like a French pancake and eaten cold. 
 
€$3s, and Row to Use Cbem. 123 
 
 Omelette — Omelet 
 
 des Zouaves — Zouave Fashion. 
 
 Chopped truffles, mushrooms, ham, and tar- 
 ragon mixed with eggs; omelet cooked as 
 usual and garnished with small crusts filled 
 with puree of onions. 
 
 Omelettes Sucrees — Sweet Omelets 
 
 aux Bananes — with Bananas. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with bananas 
 cut in slices and cooked in syrup. Omelet 
 bestrewn with powdered sugar and glazed 
 with a red hot omelet iron. 
 
 a la Ctihtine — C^ldstine. 
 
 Small omelets alternately filled with Frangi- 
 pane cream, apple and strawberry marmelade, 
 etc., glazed as above. 
 
 aux Confitures — with JPreserves. 
 
 These omelets with souffl^e and rum omelets 
 are most commonly known and served among 
 sweet omelets. 
 
 A- sweet omelet before serving should always 
 be strewn over with powdered sugar and 
 glazed with the omelet iron, which must be 
 red hot and dipped in water before using. 
 Omelets can be filled with many different 
 marmalades, jams, and jellies, and preserves 
 as can be seen from the following: 
 
124 esss, and Boiu to Use Cbcm. 
 
 Omelettes Sucrees — Sweet Omelets 
 
 aux Abricots—with Apricot Jam. 
 diix Coings — ivith Quince Marmalade, 
 aux Fraises — with Strawberry Jam. 
 aux Framboises — with Raspberry Jam. 
 a la GeUe de Groscille — with Fed Currant Jelly, 
 a la GeUe de Guava — with Guava Jelly, 
 aux Groseilles de Bar le Due — with Bar le Due Cur- 
 rants, 
 a r Orange — with Orange Marmelade. 
 
 a la Dauphine — Dauphine Style. 
 
 Omelet filled with apple marmelade and gar- 
 nished with whipped cream flavored with 
 vanilla. 
 
 a la Frangipane — with Frangipane Cream. 
 
 Omelet filled with Frangipane cream pre- 
 pared as follows: 
 
 Frangipane Cream : Mix together three egg 
 yolks and one whole egg, two ounces of 
 powdered sugar, one ounce of butter, a little 
 vanilla or lemon flavoring, four ounces of 
 flour, and one gill each of milk and cream; 
 put in a saucepan and set on the fire to boil, 
 stirring continuously. As soon as it com- 
 mences to boil take ofi the fire and add one 
 ounce of nut butter; it is then ready for use. 
 If desired some crushed macaroons mav be 
 added. 
 
€.$$&, and Row to Use Cbem. 125 
 
 Omelettes Sucr6es — Sweet Omelets 
 
 aux Fruits Confits — with Preserved Fruits. 
 
 Omelet filled and garnished with assorted 
 preserved fruits, as peaches, pears, green 
 gages, cherries, etc. Cut into small pieces 
 and mixed with apricot marmelade diluted 
 with syrup, flavored with Kirschwasser, rum 
 or other liquors. 
 
 au Kirschwasser — with Kirschwasser. 
 
 Sweet omelet cooked plain, glazed as usual ; 
 before serving Kirschwasser is poured over 
 the omelet and fire set to it. 
 
 mix Pommes — with Apples. 
 
 Omelet filled with apples peeled and cut in 
 quarters, then minced fine and cooked with 
 butter and sugar; omelet cooked and glazed 
 as usual. 
 
 aux Pommes — h I' Alsacienne — with Apples ., Alsatian 
 Fashion. 
 This is more a pancake than omelet ; in Alsace, 
 however, it is called omelet and we shall 
 therefore append it. Apples cooked as above 
 are mixed with a batter prepared with one 
 spoonful of flour, two whole eggs and one 
 gill of cream seasoned with a pinch of salt 
 and sugar; cooked on both sides like a pan- 
 cake; before serving besprinkled with pqw- 
 dered sugar. 
 
126 eggs, and Bow to Use tbem. 
 
 Omelettes Sucrees — Sweet Omelets 
 
 au Rum — with Rum. 
 
 Prepared as '■'■Omelette au Kirsch;" instead of 
 the latter rum is used. 
 
 Souffl^e Nature — Plain Puff Omelet. 
 
 There are four principal facts to observe if 
 one desires to have success when preparing 
 puff omelets, ist. The yolks of eggs must be 
 well mixed with the sugar until they become 
 quite foamy. 2d. The whites must be whisked 
 to a stiff froth. 3d. The omelet must be cooked 
 in a hot oven. And 4th, the omelet must be 
 eaten immediately without delay if its quality 
 should not deteriorate. 
 
 recipe: 
 The yolks of three eggs are gradually mixed 
 with six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
 until it becomes smooth and light; the whites 
 of six eggs are whisked to a stiff froth and 
 then mixed with the yolks and the sugar; this 
 must be done gently but quick, only taking a 
 small part of the egg froth to commence with. 
 A dish is buttered and bestrewn with pow- 
 dered sugar, the egg mass put on it in an 
 oblong shape, besprinkled with powdered 
 sugar and cooked in a hot oven. 
 Some cooks find pleasure in decorating the om- 
 elet; but this is optional and left to the cook. 
 PufiE omelets can be flavored with various 
 essences and perfumes as can be seen from 
 the following: 
 
€$is, and How to Use Cbem. 127 
 
 Omelettes Sucrees — Sweet Omelets 
 
 Soufflee aux Amandes — with Almonds. 
 
 Same as above with the addition of pounded 
 bitter almonds, or extract of almonds. 
 
 Soufflee au Citron — witk Lemon. 
 
 Same as plain puff omelet with the addition 
 of lemon flavoring; either finely chopped 
 rind of lemon, or lemon extract. 
 
 Soufflee au Chocolat—with Chocolate. 
 
 Tablets of vanilla chocolate are heated in the 
 oven until they are soft, then crushed and 
 mixed with the sugar and yolks of eggs, the 
 same proceedings as for plain puff omelet. 
 
 Soufflee au Confitures — with Preserves. 
 
 Same as "Vanilla Puff Omelet," with pre- 
 serves in the centre of the omelet. 
 
 Soufflee au Fleurs d' Granger — with Orange Blossom. 
 Same as "Plain Puff Omelet" with the addi- 
 tion of orange blossom water. 
 
 Soufflee aux Macarons — with Macaroons. 
 
 Crushed macaroons are mixed with plain puff 
 omelet and cooked as usual. 
 
 Soufflee a la Vanille — with Vanilla. 
 
 Plain puff omelet flavored with vanilla ex- 
 tract or the inner part of vanilla beans. 
 
128 eggs, and Row to Use Cbem. 
 
 Oeufs Sucres — Sweet Eggs 
 
 Crime t V Anglaise — JEnglish Cream. 
 
 Five yolks of eggs mixed with four ounces of 
 powdered sugar are diluted with one pint of 
 boiling milk, brought to the fire to thicken 
 without boiling, stirring constantly. Flavor 
 to taste, either with vanilla, almonds, lemon, 
 or orange flavor. 
 
 Crime au Cafi — Coffee Custard. 
 
 Half pound of roasted coffee thrown into one 
 quart of boiling milk ; covered hermetically, 
 and infused for a half hour, then strained 
 through a fine sieve; mixed with the yolks of 
 six and the whites of three eggs, and six 
 ounces of powdered sugar, all previously 
 beaten together; strained once more and then 
 filled into moulds — these are put into a pan 
 with boiling water and pushed into a slack 
 oven without permitting the water to boil; 
 when cooked put away to cool off; unmold 
 and serve when cold. 
 
 Crime au Caramel — Caramel Custard. 
 
 Put a few lumps of su'gar with the juice of a 
 lemon, into a copper pan, and put on the 
 range; cook until of a light golden brown, 
 and then pour into the mould in which the 
 custard is to be cooked; when cold fill up 
 with the same preparation as for Crime au 
 Caf^, with the omission of coffee and cook 
 as stated above. 
 
e,i&s, and Row to lise Cl>eni. 129 
 
 Oeufs Sucr6s — Sweet Eggs 
 
 Crime au Citron — Lemon Custard. 
 
 Same proportions as for coffee custard, but 
 flavored with the rind of lemon instead of 
 coffee. 
 
 Crime Meringuies — Meringue Custard. 
 
 1. Custards cooked in small moulds, placed 
 on round slices of sponge cakes, covered and 
 decorated with meringue preparation. 
 
 2. Pie dish lined with short paste or puff- 
 paste trimmings, filled with custard and 
 baked in a slack oven, then covered and deco- 
 rated with meringue mass. (See '■'■MMngue.") 
 
 Crime a I' Orange — Orange Custard. 
 
 Same proportion as stated above, flavored 
 with orange rind. 
 
 Crime h la Vanille — Vanilla Custard. 
 
 Vanilla beans put into the milk before boil- 
 ing, the same proceeding as for other custards. 
 
 MMngue — Meringue. 
 
 In cooking and confectionery two different 
 sorts of m6ringue are prepared, which have 
 this in common, that they are exclusively pre- 
 pared with whipped whites of eggs and sugar. 
 
 MMngue Ordinaire — Plain MMngue. 
 
 The whites of twelves eggs are beaten to a 
 stiff froth and gradually mixed with one 
 pound of sifted powdered sugar. 
 
130 eggs, and Bow to Use Cbetn. 
 
 Oeufs Sucres— Sweet Eggs 
 
 MMngue Italienne — Italian MMngue. 
 
 One pound of sugar cooked to the blow de- 
 gree is mixed and vigorously beaten with 
 the froth of six e.^^ whites. 
 This preparation is not quite as light as 
 '■'■Plain MMngue" but will be found useful 
 on many occasions. 
 
 MMngues d, la Chantilly — Chantilly MMngues. 
 
 Fill a pastry bag, into which a round tube of 
 a half inch in diameter is slided, with plain 
 meringue and press it out in the shape of a 
 half egg on to some strips of paper cut about 
 two inches wide; besprinkle with powdered 
 sugar ; place them on a thick board previously 
 dampened, and bake in a very moderate oven 
 with the door open until they are of a light 
 color; meringues should be rather dried than 
 baked. When they are sufficiently cooked, 
 take them off the paper, and with the thumb 
 make an impression on their flat side; put 
 them in a warm place to finish drying. 
 When cold they are served with whipped 
 cream flavored with vanilla. 
 Meringues can be served with creams of dif- 
 ferent flavors, or with a sweet puree of chest- 
 nuts mixed with whipped cream; they can 
 also be served with ice creams. 
 
€jjs, and now to Use Cbem. 131 
 
 Oeuf Sucr6s — Sweet Eggs 
 
 Oeufs d, la Neige — Snow Eggs or Floating Islands. 
 Have two quarts of boiling milk in a flat 
 shallow pan ; with a tablespoon drop in some 
 meringue preparation in the shape and size 
 of an egg, then cover the pan and draw it to 
 the edge of the range so that the meringue 
 will cook without the milk boiling; when 
 firm enough take out the m6ringues and lay 
 them on a hair sieve. With the rest of the 
 milk prepare an English cream, and when 
 cold put on a dish and the m6ringue on top. 
 
 Oeufs en Surprise au Blanc-manger — Surprise Eggs 
 with Blanc-mange. 
 Make little holes on both sides of raw eggs 
 and blow out their contents into a bowl for 
 further use. Close up one of the holes with 
 paste and through the other opening fill the 
 ^?,%, with Blanc-mange prepared as follows : 
 Pound together half ounce of bitter and eight 
 ounces of sweet almonds with two table- 
 spoonfuls of orange flower water ; dilute with 
 one pint of hot milk and one of cream; 
 add nine sheets of Keystone Silver White Gel- 
 atine previously soaked in water, and when 
 melted strain into a bowl. 
 When the eggs are filled with this, set them 
 on ice, and when firm, they are ready for 
 serving. 
 
Z32 €3Ss, and fyow to Use Cl)£m. 
 
 Oeufs Sucr^s — Sweet Eggs 
 
 'Oeu/s en Surprise au Chocalat — Surprise Eggs with 
 Chocolate. 
 Same proceedings as above; instead of al- 
 monds chocolate is used for flavoring. 
 
 Pudding h la Moscovite — Moscow Pudding. 
 
 Fill a pudding mould with plain meringue 
 and cook in the water-bath as custard. When 
 cold unmould and serve with English cream. 
 
 .Sabayon — Sabayon. 
 
 vSabayon is most commonly served as a sauce, 
 ^although it is often enough served in glasses, 
 vas an entremet by itself. It is generally made 
 with white wine, a dry wine being preferable, 
 but it can also be prepared with sherry, Ma- 
 deira, rum, Kirschwasser, brandy, etc. 
 Put in a copper pan or basin five yolks and 
 the white of one egg, with four ounces of 
 powdered sugar, and a half wineglassful of 
 dry white wine. Set it on a slow fire and 
 whip vigorously until of the consistency of 
 Tivhipped cream, then serve in glasses or 
 .•spread over the pudding as desired. 
 
 -^^•-^ 
 
Becasse Ecossaise — Scotch Woodcock. 
 
 Many cooks when serving this dish simply 
 dish up scrambled eggs on anchovy toast;; 
 but this is an error, only the egg yolks should 
 be used and be mixed with cream. Proceed 
 as follows : 
 
 Beat four egg yolks with one gill of cream^ 
 season with salt and pepper, put in a sauce- 
 pan over the fire and stir continuously until 
 thick without boiling, then pour this prepar- 
 ation over some anchovy toasts and serve^ 
 
 Beignets d'Oeufs — Egg Fritters. 
 
 Hard boiled eggs cut lengthwise into halves^ 
 stuffed with some kind of cooked forcemeat^ 
 dipped in frying batter and fried in hot fat; 
 served on a napkin. 
 
 Bouchees d'Oeufs d, la Crime — Small Patties of Eggs 
 in Cream. 
 Small patties filled with hard eggs cut in 
 squares and tossed in cream sauce. 
 
134 €SSs, and Bow to Use Cftem. 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes — Continued. 
 
 Cromesquis d'Oeufs aux Truffes — Egg Cromesquis 
 with Truffles. 
 Hard eggs and trufHes cut in squares, tossed 
 in cream sauce, thickened with raw egg yolks 
 and set aside to cool; when cold wrap up 
 some of this egg preparation in thin pan- 
 cakes, then dip in frying batter and fry in 
 hot fat; serve on a napkin. 
 
 Croquettes d'Oeufs — Egg Croquettes. 
 
 Same preparation as ''''Egg Cromesquis;'' in- 
 stead of wrapping them in pancakes give 
 them a nice oval shape, and dip in beaten 
 eggs ; roll in bread crumbs, fry in hot fat 
 and serve on a napkin. 
 
 Fricassi d' Oeufs h V Anglaise — English Egg Fricassee. 
 Same as Hard Eggs " a la Tripe," with the 
 addition of sliced mushrooms. 
 
 Fritdt d'Oeufs a la Frangaise — Fritdt of Eggs, 
 French Fashion. 
 Cold poached eggs coated with thick truffle 
 sauce put on an oiled dish and set on ice; 
 when very cold, dip them in frying batter 
 and fry in very hot fat; serve on a napkin. 
 
Egjs, and Row to Use Cl)em. 135 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes — Continued. 
 
 Fondue a la Brillat Savarin. 
 
 Fondue is a mixture of cheese, eggs and cream, 
 and prepared a^ follows : 
 
 Put eight egg yolks in a pan with a half 
 pound of butter broken into little pieces, 4 
 ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruy^re 
 cheese; season with salt and cayenne pepper; 
 put on the fire and whisk continuously until 
 of good consistency, then add two table- 
 spoonfuls of thick cream ; serve with toasted 
 bread separate. 
 
 The same can be made with ordinary Ameri- 
 can cheese. 
 
 Huitres du Bengale — Bengal Oysters. 
 
 Eggs broken into cleaned and buttered oyster 
 shells, seasoned with pepper and salt, be- 
 sprinkled with bread crumbs and butter, and 
 cooked in the oven for a few minutes. 
 
 Huttres de Bombay — Bombay Oysters. 
 
 An egg with only half of its white is broken 
 into a goblet seasoned with salt, pepper, and 
 lemon juice, or if liked with Worcestershire 
 or Tabasco sauce, and swallowed with one 
 draught. These eggs are sometimes called 
 Prairie oysters. 
 
136 eggs, and Bow to Use Cbem. 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes — Continued. 
 
 Oeufs Filds pour Garnitures — Spun Eggs for Gar- 
 nishing. 
 Urbain Dubois in his '■'■Cuisine de Tous les 
 Pays," gives this recipe for spun eggs as a 
 garnishing for Spanish ham. 
 Beat the egg yolks of fifteen eggs and pass 
 tliem through a sieve. Boil some light syrup 
 in a copper pan, and pour the egg yolks 
 through a funnel into the boiling syrup. 
 This funnel, especially made for this pur- 
 pose, should have several small tubes attach- 
 ed at the bottom, which have an opening, 
 about the size of large vermicelli. 
 When the eggs are cooked they are taken out 
 of the syrup, laid on a hair sieve to strain, 
 and besprinkled with a little cold water that 
 they may not stick to each other. 
 
 Oeufs Fi Us pour Potage — Spun Eggs for Soup. 
 
 Eight egg yolks mixed with 4 ounces of 
 grated Parmesan cheese and one tablespoon- 
 ful of flour ; put this pr^aration into a pastry 
 bag affixed with a round tube of a small open- 
 ing and press the contents into boiling salted 
 water. 
 
 Oeufs a la Gambetta — Eggs, Gambetta Style. 
 
 One poached egg and one fried egg, both on 
 toast, are garnished with calf's brains and 
 truffle sauce. / 
 
eggs, and Bow to lJs« Cbcm. 137 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes — Continued. 
 
 Oeufs d. la Niceoise — Eggs, Nice Style. 
 
 Whites of eggs whipped to a stiff froth and 
 mixed with thick cream and grated parmesan 
 cheese, put on a buttered dish and arrange 
 nicely with small cavities large enough to 
 lay in the yolks of eggs from which the 
 whites were separated and whipped ; cook in 
 an oven of moderate temperature. 
 
 Oeufs d, la Totnery — Eggs, Tomery Style. 
 
 Soak a piece of bread, the size of an t.^^ in 
 one gill of boiling milk, after it has absorbed 
 all the liquor stir it well with a spoon, until 
 a pulpy mass; add a little piece of butter, 
 season with pepper, salt and grated nutmeg, 
 add four spoonfuls of white chicken meat 
 cut very fine, two spoonfuls of thick cream 
 and four whole eggs well beaten; put this 
 preparation into cocotte dishes and cook in 
 a slow oven from twelve to fourteen minutes; 
 before serving pour over some rich gravy 
 mixed with tomato sauce. 
 
 Pat^ d'Oeufs a I' Anglaise — English Egg and Ba- 
 con Pie. 
 Lay some rashers of bacon on the bottom of a 
 china pie dish ; pour over eight eggs beaten 
 with a pint of cream and seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, cover the dish with short crust 
 or puffpaste trimmings baked in a moderate 
 oven : serve when cold. 
 
138 €.&$s, and Row to Use tbem. 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes — Continued. 
 
 His soles d'Oeufs — Egg Rissoles. 
 
 Roll out some puS-paste trimmings to the 
 thickness of ^ of an inch; with the paste 
 cutter stamp out some sound pieces of 2)^ 
 inches in diameter, and in the centre lay a 
 preparation of hard eggs as for "-Egg Cro- 
 quettes;" wet the border of the paste with a 
 brush dipped in water or in beaten eggs, and 
 double it over so as to form a half circle; 
 fry in hot fat and serve on a napkin. 
 
 Jioyale Jaune pour Potage — Yellow Custard for 
 Soups. 
 Beat together four egg yolks and one whole 
 egg, mix with one gill of cream, season with 
 salt, cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg; fill 
 up some small buttered moulds, or one large 
 mould, with the above preparation, and cook 
 in the water bath as described under "Cus- 
 tard." When cooked and cold cut the cus- 
 tard in dice or fanciful shapes. 
 Green Custard is made in the same manner, 
 but colored with spinach green or green 
 Breton coloring. 
 
 Red Custard is colored by mixing a thick 
 tomato pur6e with the eggs, but then a little 
 less cream is used. 
 
tSS Drinks. 
 
 Egg Flip. 
 
 Egg Flips can be prepared with different kinds 
 of liquors, to satisfy all tastes, we append sev- 
 eral recipes: 
 
 With Ale and Rum. — Heat one pint of ale, when 
 nearly boiling put into a jug; while the ale is 
 heating beat twelve whole eggs with two ounces 
 of brown sugar and a wineglassful of rum, a 
 little grated nutmeg and powdered ginger, and 
 pour into another jug; then add the ale, stirring 
 all the time, and turn several times from jug to 
 
 jug. 
 
 With Beer. — Pour into a saucepan one gill of 
 beer, three well beaten eggs, and two ounces of 
 sugar; set on the fire, beat with an egg whisk 
 until nearly boiling; then add another gill of 
 beer, a little nutmeg and ginger, and serve. 
 
 With Milk and Brandy. — One teacupful of boil- 
 ing milk mixed with the stiff froth of the white 
 of an egg and a pony of brandy, stir well, and 
 sweeten to taste. 
 
 Egg Lemonade. 
 
 Put the juice of one lemon, one ounce of 
 sugar, the white of an egg and a small quantity 
 
140 eggs, ana Boio to lise Cljem. 
 
 of crushed ice into a tumbler; mix well with a 
 shaker; add a little ice water, and drink with 
 straws. The yolk of an egg may also be added 
 if desired. 
 
 Egg Nogg, Baltimore Style. 
 
 Beat up the yolks of three eggs, and ^ of a 
 nutmeg grated, with two ounces of prowdered 
 sugar, to the consistency of cream; add, pouring 
 in quietly the while, }4 gill of brandy or rum, 
 and one glass of Marsala or brown sherry; add 
 the whites of the eggs (beaten to a stiff froth), 
 and, when well incorporated, gill of cream and 
 pint of milk. This is not a warm drink and is 
 easily digestible; it forms a nourishing dietetic 
 beverage for debilitated persons. 
 
 Egg Nog, Iced. 
 
 Beat up the yolk of one egg with a tablespoon- 
 ful of water and same of pounded white sugar; add 
 one gill of sherry or half gill of brandy, ditto of 
 rum, quarter pint of milk; mix together; add 
 half gill of shaven ice. 
 
 Egg Nog, Hot; or, " Auld Man's Milk." 
 
 Heat a pint of Scotch ale; add while warming, a 
 pinch each of powdered cinnamon, grated nutmeg 
 and powdered ginger; beat up the yolks of two 
 eggs with a little brown sugar; pour in the ale 
 gradually; when well amalgamated add a glass 
 of whiskey. 
 
€jSs, and l^ow to Use Cbem. 141 
 
 Lait de Poule— Hen's Milk. 
 
 The yolks of two eggs mixed with two ounces 
 of powdered sugar and two tablespoonfuls of 
 orange flower water; beat up well and add half 
 pint of boiling milk. 
 
 Mulled Egg Wine. 
 
 Beat up an egg with three glasses of sherry and 
 a teaspoonful of sugar; add some grated ginger, 
 and carefully half pint of boiling water, stirring 
 the while ; grate on a little nutmeg before serving. 
 
 White of Egg Emulsion. 
 
 Beat the whites of two fresh eggs with a few 
 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of powdered gum-arabic and a small quantity 
 of honey or sugar. This is very efficacious to 
 swallow gently in sore throat. 
 
 Yolk of Egg Emulsion. 
 
 Is made the same way, substituting the yolks 
 of eggs for the whites ; but being more sickly, it 
 requires more flavoring. 
 
MULLED WINE, WITH EGGS. 
 
 First, my dear madam, you must take 
 
 Nine eggs, which carefully you'll break; 
 
 Into a bowl you'll drop the white. 
 
 The yolks into another by it. 
 
 Let Betsy beat the whites with a switch. 
 
 Till they appear quite froth'd and rich. 
 
 Another hand the yolks must beat 
 
 With sugar, which will make them sweet; 
 
 Three or four spoonfuls maybe '11 do. 
 
 Though some, perhaps, would take but two. 
 
 Into a skillet next you'll pour 
 
 A bottle of good wine, or more; 
 
 Put half a pint of water, too. 
 
 Or it may prove too strong for you: 
 
 And while the eggs by two are beating. 
 
 The wine and water may be heating; 
 
 But, when it comes to boiling heat, 
 
 The yolks and whites together beat. 
 
 With half a pint of water more — 
 
 Mixing them well — then gently pour 
 
 Into the skillet with the wine, 
 
 And stir it briskly all the ttme. 
 
 Then pour it off into a pitcher; 
 
 Grate nutmeg in to make it richer; 
 
 Then drink it hot for he's a fool 
 
 Who lets such precious liquor cool. 
 
BOOKS OF REFERENCE. 
 
 The Deipnosophists Athenaus 
 
 Natural History Pliny 
 
 Tabella Cibaria 
 
 Health Improvements Dr. Muffct 
 
 Popular Antiquities Brand 
 
 The Pantropheon Soyer 
 
 The Book About the Table Jeaffreson 
 
 Antiquitates Culinary Warner 
 
 The Modern Cook de la Chapelle 
 
 Two Fifteenth Century Cook Books 
 
 The Accomplished Cook May 
 
 Art of Cookery Mrs. Glasse 
 
 Culinary Chemistry Williams 
 
 Animal Food Resources of the World Simmonds 
 
 Chemistry of Common Life Johnston 
 
 A Treatise on Food and Dietetics Pavy 
 
 The Science of Nutrition Atkinson 
 
 Historiographie de la Table Verdot 
 
 Grand Dictionaire de Cuisine Dumas 
 
 La Cuisine d'Aujourdhui Dubois 
 
144 esss, and Bow to Use tljem. 
 
 Meisterwerke der Speisen & Getr'Ai^ke. Bin Aer&'I'etermann 
 
 Le Cuisinier Imperial P'iard 
 
 Physiologie du Got>T Brillat-Savarin 
 
 Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks Terrington 
 
 MM 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Part I i 
 
 A Chat with the Reader . . . ; 3 
 
 A Historical, Theoretical and Practical Chapter 
 
 ON Eggs 5 
 
 Friar O'Meara's Song 32 
 
 Part II 34 
 
 Boiled Eggs 37 
 
 Poached Eggs 40 
 
 Eggs Mollet 57 
 
 Scrambled Eggs 63 
 
 Shirred Eggs 
 
 } 
 
 Eggs au Miroir .' 
 
 Fried Eggs 80 
 
 Eggs in Cocottes or Cases 86 
 
 Eggs Moulded in Timbales 93 
 
 Hard Eggs ^ 
 
 Stuffed Eggs y 95 
 
 Cold Eggs ) 
 
 Omelets 106 
 
 Sweet Omelets 123 
 
 Sweet Eggs 128 
 
 Miscellaneous Recipes 133 
 
 Egg Drinks 139 
 
 Mulled Wine, with Eggs (Poem) 142 
 
 Books of Reference 143 
 
 Index i45 
 
146 eggs, and Bow to ISse Cbem, 
 
 .NOTES. 
 
esss, and Bow to Use Cbem. 147 
 
 J^OTES. 
 
^48 eggs, and Bow to Use Cbem. 
 
 NOTES. 
 
€Sjs, and Row to !Sse CDeni. 149 
 
 NOTES. 
 
150 esss, and Pouj to lisc Cbem. 
 
 NOTES.