hatt d^allege at Agciniltute At Q^acnell MnitJerBltg Cornell University Library LB 3251.059 Improvement of school grounds. 3 1924 013 370 949 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924013370949 Improvement of School Grounds Improvement of School Grounds Plans and Suggestions for the Improvement of Rural and Urban School Grounds TORONTO: 1 908 Printed by order of the Legislative Assembly of Ontario. L. K. Cameron, Printer to the King-'s Most Excellent Majesty, Toronti. Warwick iJros' & Kutter, Printers, Toronto. Improvement of School Grounds. Dean Bailey, of Cornell University, in an address on the "Improve- ment of Rural School Grounds," makes the following- statement: — One's training for the work of life is begun in the home and fostered "in the school. This training is the result of a direct and conscious "effort on the part of the parent and the teacher, combined with the "indirect result of the surroundings in which the child is placed. The "surroundings are more potent than we think, and they are usually "neglected. It is probable that the antipathy to farm life is often formed "before the child is able to reason on the subject. An attractive play- "ground will do more than a profitable wheat crop to keep the child on "the farm." At a time when so much is being said about the country boys leav- ing the farm, and when efforts are being made to adapt the work of the school to the needs of the rural communities, probably no more urgent need could be brought to the notice of the public than that of a general improvement of school surroundings. We are all more or less familiar with their bare, neglected, windswept appearance, many of them being without a vestige of a tree or a shrub. In neglecting so long to beautify schools and their surroundings, the people of Ontario have missed one of the best opportunities of implanting in the minds of the young a love for rural life and the beauties of nature, as well as for the order and simple neatness which make for so much in every day life in either town or country. The Trustees' Opportunity and Duty. In the past the improvement of the school grounds has usually been left to the teachers. Some of them have, it is true, been able to accomp- lish much with the co-operation of the children. But such work is really the duty of the trustees. It is to them the section and the teacher look for the proper equipment of the school inside, and it is just as much their duty to equip fully the school outside as well. The idea that it is useless to put the school grounds in good condition because the children may injure them, is a serious mistake. Make the school grounds worthy of respect and the children will have respect for them. Moreover, the inspiration thus received will result in the beautifying of the home sur- roundings throughout the whole country. Wherever the trustees rise to the occasion and do their part in the work of improvement, the teachers and pupils may be safely counted upon for hearty co-operation. The Plans and Grounds. The accompanying plans on pages 22-33 show how grounds differ- ing in size and shape may be laid out to meet varying requirements ; but the plans are merely suggestive and may be modified to suit existing conditions, for no ready-made plan will suit all places. The plans are for [3] IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS half-acre, one-acre, and two-acre grounds. For the average rural school grounds two acres is best. This size affords ample space for sepa- rate play grounds for boys and girls, provides for the introduction of school gardens, which are now generally recognized as a necessary part of the equipment in every up-to-date rural school, gives room for a varied collection of trees and shrubs, and allows for an open lawn m front. As, however, is shown by the plans, grounds of less than two acres may be used to advantage. AVhere animals are not allowed to run at large, fences should be unnecessary. If, however, the school grounds have to be fenced, and unfortunately this is too often necessary, the fence should be as inconspicu- ous as possible. A low, neat, woven wire one is probably the best, and it may be fairly well hidden by the use of shrubbery, or it may be used as a trellis for vines and ornamental climbers. Location of Buildings. The location for the buildings in the school grounds depends largely on the surroundings. As a rule, the best location for the school house itself is near the middle of the lot, so as to allow, when desired, for separate play grounds for boys and girls at the sides. It should be far enough from the road or street to give an open lawn in front, ample space for wood shed or other buildings, and school gardens at the back. The wood shed, which will serve also as a tool shed, is usually most conveniently located in the rear of the school house and near the gardens. The closets, when outside, should be at the rear of the other buildings, and instead of being the most prominent feature of the grounds, as has usually been the case, they should be screened from view by trees and shrubs. Until the trees and shrubs grow high enough, a lattice screen should be put up. This may be covered with Virginia Creeper or strong annual climbers such as Wild Cucumber, or Japanese Hop ; but the sooner a permanent screen of evergreen trees or tall flowering shrubs is provided the better. Grading and Levelling the Grounds. It is taken for granted that a site will be chosen which is naturally well drained. If the grounds are not as dry as may be desirable, under- draining will be helpful. Whether the grounds are level or rolling, it is usually necessary to plow up the whole lot to prepare the land for seed- ing with suitable grasses. Any grading necessary should be done as soon as possible after the ground is plowed. The play grounds should be made fairly level or with only a slight grade to insure good surface drainage. The grounds about the school house should slope gently from the foundation walls, not only to afford good drainage bvit to give promin- ence to the building. Wherever much subsoil has to be moved in the grading down of knolls or in excavating for the building, it should be used in filling up low places where it can be well covered with several inches of good surface soil. This is important, for it is impossible to get a good lawn or growth of any kind upon hard, inert subsoil. IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 5 Making the Lawns. The more thoroughly the land is worked before seeding down, the better for the lawn. This is a case where the old-fashioned summer fallowing can be practised to advantage. Jt helps to rot the old sod, destroys weeds, and prepares a good bed for grass seeds. As a final preparation, there is nothing like going over the whole ground with a garden rake and making the surface as smooth as possible. The best kind of seed for the lawns and play grounds is a mixture in equal parts by weight of blue grass, red top grass, and white Dutch clover. These may be bought separately from any of the leading seeds- men and should be thoroughly mixed before sowing. The mixture should be sown at the rate of about 50 or 60 pounds per acre. It should be sown on a still day when the wind will not prevent an even distribution of the lighter seed. The land should then be lightly harrowed and rolled to cover the seed and insure quick germination. If the soil is light and likely to be poached by the horses' feet, it is better to use a garden rake to cover the seed and a light roller which can be run by hand. The work of lawn-making may be done at any time of the year, but if much grading and levelling is necessary, it is well to do it during the summer and autumn and leave the seeding till the following spring. This gives the filled parts of the ground a chance to settle before spring, so that there will be no uneven settling of the ground after it is seeded. The best time to sow grass seeds is as early as the ground can be con- veniently worked in the spring. Seeding may be done during the summer; but, unless there is plenty of moisture in the soil, the results are more or less uncertain, while autumn seeding often results in the grass being badly heaved out of the ground the first winter. In a favorable season the grass should form a fairly good sward in two or three months. The oftener it is mowed, and the less it is used as a play ground the first year, the better. The sod then becomes thick enough to stand considerable use without injury. Keeping the Grass Cut. Some means should be provided to keep the grass cut. Too often such provision is entirely neglected and the playground becomes little better than a hay field, or a pasture plot for the neighbors' cattle. This should not be tolerated. A good lawn mower should form part of the school ground equipment, and an allowance should be made to the care- taker to keep the grass properly cut. In some cases the teacher and pupils look after the cutting and the grounds as part of the school garden work. This is a good plan and can be made an object lesson in the care of home grounds. In rural districts where lawn mowers and care- takers are not so common, the grounds may be kept in very respectable condition with the ordinary farm mower, the cutter bar of which should be set low and the knives kept sharp. If one of the trustees or a neigh- boring farmer undertakes this work and mows the whole grounds as often as the grass gets high enough for the mower knives to catch it, the country school grounds may be kept in just as fine condition as any of the city grounds. The use of the farm mower is made all the more practicable where the grounds are not barricaded with unneces- sary fences. (i IIVIPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. Walks and Drives. Walks and drives are not in themselves ornamental, but they are more or less necessary, and they either make or mar the appearance of the place according- as they are properly or improperly located and con- structed. On small grounds or where the building- is close to the road, a single entrance and straight walk is all that is needed ; but where the grounds are large enough and the building is back some distance from the road, an entrance at each side of the grounds, with walks laid out in easy, graceful curves towards the building, is far more attractive. Walks and drives are more expensive to construct and more difficult to keep in good condition than lawn, and therefore should not be any more extensive than is really necessary. In most cases there should be no waggon road on the school grounds as the fuel supply is brought in but once or twice during the year, and this may be done at a time when di iv- ing over the grass will do little harm. Any injury done in this way may be easily repaired by filling in the ruts and sowing a little fresh f,rass seed. The most suitable material for the construction of walks depends largely upon the local surroundings. In towns and cities where concrete is largely used, a concrete walk will be most in keeping with the sur- roundings ; but in rural districts where the children often walk a mile or more to school along country road sides, a well-made gravel walk or cinder path is suitable. In the construction of such walks it is well to dig out the good surface soil and fill in the bottom of the walk with coarse gravel or coal ashes, and finish off on top with fine screened gravel which can be rolled down firm and will not be loose under foot. Planting Trees. Nothing adds more to the beauty and suitability of school grounds than a good collection of judiciously planted and well grown trees. In the trees we find a great variety of useful and ornamental qualities. The evergreens are particularly valuable to protect the buildings and grounds from the sweep of cold winds, while the deciduous trees give shade and comfort during the hot da-ys. The school-ground collection should contain as great a variety as possible, especially of the native trees adapted to the locality, in order that the children may unconsciously grow familiar with them. Bulletin 155 of the Ontario Agricultural College, which may be had upon application to the Department of Agriculture, Parliament Buildings, Toronto, con- tains a list of the species indigenous in Ontario. On the accompanying plans only a few of the most important kinds are mentioned, the object of these plans being more to suggest how the trees should be arranged upon the grounds than to furnish a list of what kinds should be used. Around the boundaries of the grounds should be planted some of the largest shade trees, such as maple, elm, oak, or linden. These should be at least thirty feet apart to allow for the full develop- ment of the top. Alternating with these on the sides of the grounds most exposed to the prevailing cold winds should be planted some of the strong growing evergreens, such as spruce, cedar, or pines, whichever may IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. be best adapted to the locality and soil. Where the grounds are larg-e enough to admit of more than boundary planting-, groups of various kinds of trees of smaller growth may be planted, particularly in the cor- ners, where they will not unduly crowd upon the play grounds. Isolated specimens may stand out here and there at the sides and the rear of the buildings to give nearer shade and form a suitable background for the building. In the planting of home-grounds it is important to note carefully the outlook from the principal windows of the house, or the view points on the ground, and to leave vistas or openings here and there in the plant- ing through which beautiful views may be had beyond the boundaries. This may not be quite so important on school grounds, where the children are not supposed to spend their time looking out of the windows, yet it is well to arrange the planting so as to preserve any particularly beauti- ful view which may be obtained from the grounds and at the same time exclude from view any unsightly object which might mar the outlook. Ornamental Shrubs. When Nature has bestowed upon us such a wealth of ornamental flowering shrubs, it is surprising that they are so sparingly used. They are particularly valuable for planting on small grounds where there is not much room for large trees. As a rule, they can be most satisfactorily arranged in irregular groups or clumps in nooks or corners about the grounds or buildings, or along the walks as indicated on the accompany- mg plans. One very common mistake is scattering them all over the front lawn. This part of the lawn should be kept more or less open, in order that the building may stand out as the central feature in a pretty landscape picture, the trees and shrubs at the sides and the rear forming a beautiful background. When making a collection of flowering shrubs, the aim should be to cover the season with bloom as nearly as possible from early to late, and to have as great a variety as possible of those shrubs which are hardy in the section. The following list includes a few of the most desirable of those which have been tested at the Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph, and whatever proves hardy at Guelph will generally succeed elsewhere in the Province. For southern sections of the Province many other choice kinds might be added that are not hardy at Guelph. The following list is given in the order of the season of bloom, and covers the season fairly well from early to late : Golden Bell (Forsythia suspensa), an open spreading bush five or six feet in height. The large yellow bell-shaped flowers appear before the leaves about the end of April and last two or three weeks. It should be planted against a dark background, such as evergreens, to show to advantage. Golden Currant (Ribes aureum), a hardy, vigorous bush six or eight feet in height; bears an abundance of bright yellow flowers, having a spicy fragrance. The bloom appears about the beginning of May and lasts a couple of weeks. Japan Quince (Cydonia Japonica), a showy bush six or eight feet in height with glossy green foliage. The flowers are large and showy. 8 lMPRO\'EIMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. varying- in color from brilliant scarlet in some varieties to pink and white in others. They appear about the middle of May and last nearly three weeks. Siberian Pea-tree (Caragana jrutesccns), a very hardy, showy little bush about five or six feet in height. It has a luxuriance of fine bright green foliage, which appears early in the season and is followed about the 24th of May with an abundance of clusters of pea-shaped yellow flowers. Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris). The common lilac is so well known as to need no description. Of late years a great many new varieties have been introduced with single and double flowers, ranging in color from white and cream to pink and dark purple. These are in bloom about the 24th of May, and with a good selection of varieties the season may be extended a month or more. Bechtel's Double Flowering Crab {Pyrus angustifolia). This is a hardy little crab apple tree, which bears large double pink blossoms an inch or more across. At a distance they look like small roses and are \ery fragrant. The bloom appears about the first of June and last about two weeks. \'an Houttei's Spiraea (Spiraea Van Houteii). Among thirtv varie- ties of Spiraeas which have been tested at Guelph, this is one of the best. It makes a graceful symmetrical bush about five feet in height, with slender drooping twigs. The bloom is very profuse, pure white, and appears about the first week in June. Other good varieties are the Golden Spiraea, which grows six or eight feet in height and has a bright yellow foliage, and the Anthony Waterer, a dwarf varietv about three lect high, bearing a profusion of pink flowers. Bush Honeysuckles (Lonicera Tartarica). These are very hardy, beautiful shrubs growing eight or ten feet In height. The bloom is very- abundant every year, appearing about the first week in June and lasting a couple of weeks. It is followed by showy red or orange berries which make the bush attractive after the bloom is gone. There are red, pink and white varieties, all of which are deserving of a place on the school grounds. Snowball {Viburnum opulus). This is a hardy free-growing shrub about ten feet high, bearing large round clusters of pure white flowers which look like snowballs. It blooms about the first week of June and lasts a couple of weeks. Weigela (Diervilla rosea). This is a handsome bush which, although not extremely hardy, grows up freely from the roots even if the top is frozen back. It makes a bush five or six feet in height, which bears large bell-shaped, rose-colored flowers, E^ppearing about the first week of June and lasting two or three weeks. Garland Syringa (Philadelphus coronarius). The Syringas, or Mock Oranges, as they are sometimes called, are handsome shrubs varying in height from ten to twenty feet. They bear large, pure white, fragrant blossoms which appear about the middle of June and last a couple of weeks. Purple Fringe (Rhus cotinus), a hardy thrifty shrub which grows ten or twelve feet high. About the middle of July it comes in bloom, and from then or till autumn it is covered with curious feathery plumes which are very showy. IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. Hardy Hydrangea {Hydrangea paniculaLa) This is a somewhat straggling- growing shrub which may become six or eight feet high but IS the better of being pruned back every spring in the same way as roses It bears large panicles of white flowers which appear about the middle of August and last three or four weeks. Vines and Climbers. There are a number of hardy ornamental vines that may be used very effectively in many ways upon the school grounds. One of the best of these, because of its vigor and extreme hardiness, is the Virginia Creeper. It serves a useful purpose when grown on a lattice, to screen from view the outhouses ; and it may also be used to cover a side of the school building and wood shed. To cover the walls of a brick or stone building there is nothing better than the Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii), but unfortunately "this is not hardy enough for northern parts of the Province. There is a variety of the Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis quinquefolia. var. hirsuta), which clings to brick or stone almost as tenaceously as the Boston Ivy, and may be used when the latter is too tender. The bright green foliage of such climbers makes a very pretty con- trast with the bare walls of the buildings, and helps to give the school and its surroundings a home-like appearance. If the grounds are enclosed with fences, which are always more or less unsightly, the fence may be used as a trellis for a varied collection of vines and cHmbers, such as the Trumpet Flower (Tecoma radicans), Climbing Honeysuckles (Lonicera Belgica and Halleana), Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia sipho), and a number of the varieties of the Clematis, a few of the best of which are Clematis coccinia, C. Jackmanni. and C. panicidata. S'ince the display of the Union Jack is becoming common on school grounds, a neat flag pole for this purpose should be prominently placed near the front of the building, and its beauty may be greatly enhanced by planting beside it a strong growinp- twiner, such ^s the Climbing Bitter Sweet (Celastrus scandens), or Cinnamon Vine (Dioscorea bata- tus), which will soon climb and festoon it with ropes of lovely green. Obtaining Nursery Stock. Many of the trees, shrubs, and vines already mentioned may be found growing wild in neighboring woods, and thrifty young plants may be obtained for the labor of moving them. When not so obtainable, they may be procured from any of the leading nurseries of the Province at but small cost. In orderine stock from the nurseries, it is advisable to make out a full list of what is wanted, writing for quotations and ordering early in the winter so that the stock may be had in good time for plant- ing early in the spring. 10 I IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. Flower Borders. Every school ground should have its flower beds or borders, so that the children may become familiar with and learn to love those beautiful forms which help so much to make school and home surroundings bright and cheerful. There is an endless variety of beautiful flowers which deserve a place on the school grounds. For convenience of culture they may be divided into two classes; the annuals, of which the seed has to be sown every year, and the perennials, which last from year to year. Wherever school gardens are adopted, the annuals should occupy a section of each child's plot in the school garden. Among the desirable kinds for this purpose are the following : Asters, Candytuft, Coreopsis, California Poppy, Mignonette, Nasturtium, Phlox, Portulaca, Pinks, Poppies, Scabi- osa, Salpiglosis, Stocks, Petunias, Verbenas, and Zinnias. The hardy herbaceous perennials are on the whole the most satisfactory kinds of flowers for school or home grounds. They are best grown in a long border, varying in width from three to six feet. When well stocked with a good selection of varieties such a border soon becomes "a thing of beauty and a joy forever." When once established, it produces a succes- sion of bloom of one kind or another throughout the season, and is particularly showy in the spring and early summer months when the children are at school and naturally take more notice of the floral beau- ties of the year. As a perennial border is expected to become a more or less permanent feature of the grounds, its location should be carefully considered. On small grounds, where there are no school gardens, it may be located around the foundation walls of the buildmg. Where school gardens are a part of the school equipment, one or two borders may be made adjoin- ing the garden plots, or when the grounds are large, the borders may be made a very attractive feature along the walks to the building. These are in far better taste than fancy shaped beds cut out of the greensward in a prominent place on the lawn. The ground for the perennial border should be deeply and thoroughly prepared and made as rich as possible by digging in plenty of well rotted manure. The work of stocking the border may be done at various times throughout the season. Early in the spring is the best time to sow seeds and do most of the planting. The transplanting of seedlings may be done at any time during the season when the ground is moist. Hardy bulbs and tuberous rooted plants should be planted in the fall. The children should be invited to co-operate in stocking the perennial border with plants. Often they can spare from their home garden, roots of such plants as the Bleeding Heart, Iris, Lily, Lily of the Valley, Paeony, Phlox, etc., and, on the other hand, as the plants increase and require thinning out, the school border should become a distributing centre to the homes. The artistic arrangement of plants in such a border affords plenty of room for the exercise of judgment and good taste, and may be made a pleasing study for those who wish to culti- vate an eye for beauty and a love for flowers. No formal blocks or regular straight lines should be attempted. A scattering or grouping in irregular profusion is more natural and pleasing. Rearranging may be done from time to time as experience may prove desirable. Further information on IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. II this subject may be found in a bulletin on the "Mixed Flower Border," which may be obtained on application to the Horticultural Department of the Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph. Choice Herbaceous Perennials. The following are a few of the best of the hardy herbaceous perennials which should have a place in the school flower border : Golden Glow, Larkspurs, Hollyhocks, Sunflowers, Columbines, Campanulas, Bleed- ing Hearts, Irises, Lillies, Paeonies, Oriental and Iceland Poppies, Daisies, Lillies of the Valley, Violets, Phlox, Periwinkle, and the spring flowering bulbs such as Snowdrops, Scillas, Crocuses, Tulips, Daffodils, etc. For a more extended list see the bulletin referred to above. The Wild Flower Garden. A very interesting and instructive garden on any school grounds may be made of the wild flowers and ferns of the locality. Such a garden is best located in a shady spot at the back of the grounds. It should be stocked by the children under the direction of the teacher, and it may be made practically valuable as a field for botanical study. Note. A supply of this circular will be sent to the Public School Inspector, by whom each School Board will be provided with a copy. The circular will remain the property of the School Board for reference by the trus- tees and the teachers. When needed, additional copies may be obtained from the Inspector at his discretion. Mr. H. L. Hutt, B.S.A., Professor of Horticulture in the Ontario Agricultural College, Guelph, will be glad to assist in any way possible. School Boards and Inspectors who desire further information on the subject of School Grounds Improvement. IMPROVEMKNT OF SCHOOL G R O Li N D S . l:-i A relic of the days when school houses were built in the bush. A lieautiful building amid beautiful surroundings. Note the spacious open lawn in front and the grouping of trees and shrubs at the sides and rear to give a setting and frame for the landscape picture. 2 I M P R O \' E M E N T OF SCHOOL G R O L' N D S 14 «v<< THE FIRST SCHOOLHOUSE (_)N ST. JOSEPH'S ISJ.AND, ALGOMA . Bare, neglected, wind-swept ; for many j-ears this was used as a school, yet never a tree, shrub, or vine was planted near it. THE RITTENHOUSE SCHOOL, JORDAN HARBOUR. Where, trees, shrubs and vines have been used to make the school surrdundings homelike. MPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 15 H^rr An excellent schoul building but witb bare, unadorned surniundings. THE VINELAND SCHOOL (Louth and Clinton U.S. S. ) A neat attractive school. The result of hearty co-w,i^23¥^?-^ i^te:-^*! -i^J^fe iiiB ^=^ ^^ ^^K ^ >^,s^'"#^ - ■ ^ ^^ 1 ^ ^^^^B THE RITTENHOUSE SCHOOL. What child would not like to attend such a school ? Does not everything here impart an air (if welcome ? THE RITTENHOUSE SCLIOOL. A corner of the grounds in flower. A pioneer in school garden work. MPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. o d o J H IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS 23 THE GOLDIANA FERN. The wild flower garden stocked with the ferns and wild flowers of the locality, may be made a valuable feature on any school grounds. IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 24 mk. PLAYCROUMD 'Y W&ple^ ScHydra.niea$ ^'Id^wei^O^'^'^ OppuCe ami GIRLS' PLAYGROUND TOOL & WOOD SHED ilP SCHOOL^ ^^hrtb^ Rrble rrfnge jy uSpira.ea^ '^FlajPole Lonicera. Mixed^Shtu.h:s ROAD Half Acre School Ground WITH Flower Border AROUND Building I M P R O \-- E M K .\ T O F SCHOOL GROUNDS. 25 Ribes^ A .a ^ PLAYdROUKD KHOOl d/IRDEH SiHOOL P'or.Suthi A BOYS ' PLAY(}ROl/ND C/RLS TOOL& WOOD SHED ^iLoniCeras ^Lilacs oT^' ^■■:i< ^^Maples SCHOOL Caraganask QS^hrabs Lilac \,Spir£ieas % Q Flag Pole Svrin^a ROAD Half Acre 5c!H00L Ground WITH Flower Border AROUND School. IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 26 A Norwaij /Spruce 'White Pine ^W ^Elm MaplcM^ Wild •■ Gai-deii% Mixe d $h ru bfi fSjs Boy^/S' PLAYGROUND SCHOOL GARDEN Q?}o GIRL$' PLAYGROUND ^ A — m BOYS © Tool. & WOODSHED m SCHOOL \ i y^**^:^. *-%.^:'i Perennicd Border QFlat^ Pole ^ ROAD Half Acre School Grounds $urrounded bij Elm$. IMPROVEMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 27 I MAIN ROAD JTAipAcm School Grovnd WITH /School Garden:^ 1 M PK:»->^.v-;y-H-^>:^- l PLAYGROUND & JP^kite Pnie T0OL& ^ -«^ f I ^■««,'i't .'.fe 1« ■ Q ■ ^ ^ t^ ■-J' I^ o- ■■■■ ■3 . .'-^ O ^ li iT) f*- ^ ^ ^ *-j U Ci; '^ X o '-^ Q. --- <^ J^t. IMPROVEMENT O 1-^ SCHOOL G R O T X I) S . :!-2 #? ^- # ^ ^^ # "^JP #' gp #f # ^ i!ip 4^^ ^ ^ "^ ^ ■^^^<>^w-^?' -" ^ ^ PT^AYGROUND ^ ROAD Plan FOR Two Acre School Ground. M I' RO\' EM E NT OF SCHOOL G R O L' N' D S . I I ■^ s ^ [ M PR()\- KM 1-: NT O I- SCHOOL GRO^^'l)S. 34. |; '^ Maples /•-:'% .i'p^ '.«ii) iS!-h f'S; ?-'¥ - ^:f. -f .. "T^ 'V tiC — _r. ROAD Plan of TuvAcrk School Ground WITH Birri.DlNt, ON THE Corner of the Lot MPROVKMENT OF SCHOOL GROUNDS. 35 4*- fli 43. *^ /f- -fa .tt /li 4"* ^.1 A- SCHOOL GARDEN SCHOOL CAHDEN li Norway Spruce ,,. , Blue'SprtLCC Sl .{Mixed ' . r. ^ i/Shruhs fr^ A4 MixedSh ni bs-L BO^S PLAyGROL/JVD Spiraeas Caraganas iSyrm^as '■0 MAIN ROAD Plan of Two Acre School Ground WITH Bu/LDiNfJ Sf Garden A r Back of tlie Lot.