G\ua? v i - 1 : r M Y< II II Al ,/( ■III TH I II III .W.I II, I OforncU Hmueraitg Sltbrarg CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1976 1918 .**.** „ i^.tj. cy Leslie Keith, is. 6d. SHATWXira CASTLE. By Ellen L. Davis, .is. Oil. OF ALL DEGREES. By Leslie Keith. 3 s. 6d. Published ai 56, Paternoster Row, London And Sold by all Booksellers. n- . t The date shows when this volume was taken. T > rr^n.: H- rife^SSfe^^fiSiwi'fV SiJs^Si Ss. <>fk' CHAPTER XVIII. FROM TREATY-PORT TO PROVINCIAL CAPITAL. YOUNG missionary, having for three years lived in the comfortable and healthy port of Chefoo, — the sanatorium of China, — was transferred, in the autumn of 188 5, to the capital of the province of Shantung, the city of Chi-nan-fu — called by Mrs. Williamson ' the Paris of China.' Would that the transfer in actuality had equalled the ease of the transfer made by that learned and august body, the Presbyterian Mission ! But votes are always an illusion, if difficulty of fulfilment is to be measured by the difficulty in casting a vote — especially about some one else. One unacquainted with the question of moving in China, and supposing that the shortest road is always the best and cheapest, would quickly decide that the way to reach Chi-nan-fu from Chefoo would be by the direct overland route, with carts or wheelbarrows or mule-back — a distance of some three hundred and fifty miles. The decision would be correct if merely travel- ling as a tourist, but not so if moving as an American Presb) T terian missionary, who attempts to carry home 107 10S Peeps into China tastes and home ideas of civilisation into the midst of Chinese conservatism and pride. All at last is ready : farewell calls have been made, and the numbering of the worldly possessions begins. Twenty, thirty, fifty, eighty — and still more to follow. Frightful ! How will the appropriation of the Board ever meet the bills ? How can one possibly maintain his reputation as poor and self-denying ? But, alas, there was no help in the packing, neither is there any help in the moving. Missionary bankruptcy stares forth, and, ah me ! there is no chance for a collection or a donation-party. The fears, however, are repressed, and the most roundabout route is selected. Coolie after coolie, until it seems not a coolie is left, is pressed into duty at six cents a head ; and, with boxes on shoulders and satchels in hand, and a general hubbub and a particular confusion, all rush to the jetty, as a steamer from the south enters the harbour and signals a speedy departure. The young missionary enters the telegraph-office, and, with a profound sense of the world's progress, telegraphs to a missionary in Tientsin to hire a canal-boat, and have it meet the steamer on arrival at that city two days hence. Then he hurries to the jetty, counts the ' personal effects,' and lo ! some have not yet arrived, and the steamer is going in half-an-hour. The earth seems whirling faster than ever, and a strange fatality threatens the missionary. Hurriedly the goods are placed in the Chinese boats, and all start for the steamer, which lies at anchor some distance away. A fellow- missionary is left on shore, to pay all bills and to await the remaining goods, which, with the servant, he is to hurry oil' to the steamer. By an unusual amount of American agitation, the From Treaty- Port to Provincial Capital 109 young missionary and his ' worldly all ' are safe on board ere the steamer whistles and the bell rings and the anchor is raised, and the familiar scenes are left behind. In two days the large and busy port of Tientsin is reached, and the second stage of the journey is begun. In a little while a canal-boat comes aside, and then another and another, until the right one at last appears. The goods, amid much confusion, are trans- ferred with no checking, except the checking off from CHINESE BOATS. one's own list, as the articles one by one are passed into the boat. Everything is crowded together with- out order or convenience, and lo! the young missionary sees that no place is left to sleep), eat, rest, or study. So another and a smaller boat is drafted into the service, after more than one hour of argument from more than one side as to proper economy or extrava- gance ; and then another transfer is made, and another list prepared. Then the agent of the Steamship Company is visited, and a little bill is paid, owing to i 10 Peeps into China the fact that the ' personal effects ' appeared rather too extensive. Cash is distributed among the coolies who have assisted in the transfer ; and the young missionary hurriedly dresses himself for a missionary wedding, when two happy folks tie themselves to each other's bondage, and wonder if they are still happy. The next day our young novice, with his two boats, starts on his journey up the Grand Canal in the direction south - west from Tientsin, which in turn is north - west from Chefoo, thus completing the two shorter sides of a triangle. The mode of travelling by boat is a pleasant one, affording abundant leisure, to compensate for the rush of the life in port or the confusion of making connections. It takes some eight clays to go some two hundred and fifty miles to the next transfer-station, the city of Te-Chow. On arrival there the young missionary goes to the telegraph-office, and learns that the operator, a China- man, has been asked by the operator in Tientsin, formerly a student in America, to give all possible assist- ance in making the journey easy and agreeable. In a few minutes, by such an assistance, eleven large wheel- barrows are hired to start on the morrow, as usual, the (juestion of money affording a lively discussion. The morrow comes, and the transfer begins. One barrow is loaded and then another, and still another, till all the goods are securely tied on, the itemised list completed, the accounts settled, and all disputes ended, lly the time all this labour is performed the sun is seen to sink rather low in the west, and no start seems possible till another to-morrow. The waves of the canal tumble the boats about in reck- less disorder, and the wind blows its first cold blasts of coming winter. From Treaty-Port to Provincial Capital 1 1 1 The last stage is still southward, a distance of some eighty miles. It passes through the region where for years the Yellow Eiver has overflown the country, and people have cried for food, clothing, and shelter. The journey of some two weeks at last comes to an end. A small Chinese house is pointed out as a fitting abode for a bachelor, and in the open court thereof all the goods are safely stored. The only loss is an old watch, some patience and piety, and a basket of crockery. Considering all the trouble, all the worry, and all the expense that such moving has caused, it need not surprise one to know that the next time the said young missionary moves in China it will he more as a poor man, and more in accordance witli apostolic example. CHAPTER XIX. LIFE IN THE INTEEIOE OF CHINA. HAT is meant by living ' in the interior ' ? Does it mean any place which happens not to be a treaty-port ? or does it mean any place away from the coast ? or does it mean only a place where no foreigner is living save oneself? Refraining from any analytical discussion of this mooted question, we will acknowledge that, according to treaties, ' in the interior ' is a non-' treaty- port ; ' but for general application we will call life in the interior to be that which is lived apart from direct contact with the outside world, in a place where repre- sentatives of foreign powers have no direct oversight. The farther one goes inland, away from places where foreign nations seem to have a grasp, the more is he in the interior ; and the more a missionary, whether in a treaty-port or in the interior, enters into the life of the people among whom he dwells, the more is he ful- filling the missionary idea rather than a denationalising policy. In the first place, the social life is different. Out- side of a circle of one, two, or more missionary families, 112 Life in the Interior of China 1 1 3 all social relations must be with the natives themselves. To one who seeks to influence for good the native classes rather than his missionary co-labourers, pleasure is heightened by increased acquaintance with the people, and regrets are felt if all doors are closed in the face. A missionary in a Chinese port must mingle more or less with other foreigners, and at least must conform to foreign ways. Houses, dress, prejudices, and conceit are all foreign, while if such were to prevail in the interior one would meet with some troublesome affronts. Here and there, in the interior, missionaries have erected foreign houses ; they live as foreigners have been trained abroad to live, and are intent in providing all those comforts and luxuries that health and imagina- tion require ; but such persons are mostly away from the strong native influence of the cities, and are living at peace with the ' plain country folk.' Next we notice the intellectual life. Either because of pressing missionary duties, or from the frequent commingling with the natives, one is greatly tempted to grow stagnant in thought, disinterested in the public questions of Western life, and more and more to be restricted to plans that are local and to duties that are immediate. In a port, on the other hand, there is a constant stimulus to leave the work and look at the world. A missionary in the interior will certainly have enough to do if he masters the principles of the three great religions of China as well as of the many forbidden sects, if he studies carefully the standard literature of China, if he continues to add to his Chinese vocabulary, and if he examines the customs, super- stitions, and laws of the people. To confine one's powers to such Chinese studies, and to relinquish all foreign studies, is the most natural desire to one in the H H4 Peeps into China interior ; while at a port the great temptation is to be half-in-half — living for the Chinese, but with the foreigners. In the third place, we should consider the evangelistic life. In many places the missionary has his regular routine just as in the port, whether to go to the hospital or street-chapel or to look after a school, whether to write boots or teach inquirers ; but most missionaries in the interior have the work of evangel- istic touring, that is, conversing with the people, preaching on the streets and at the markets, selling books and tracts, or while at home receiving callers, or visiting people in their homes. The largest society in China is the China Inland Mission, started by J. Hudson Taylor for the express purpose of distributing missionaries, male and female, married and unmarried, throughout all the interior provinces. The Society has missionaries in eleven provinces, only three of which are coast provinces. Their main work is evangelistic ; and while certain features may be criticised, we must confess that a more zealous and single-minded class could hardly be found. To live comfortably in the interior, one should learn to adapt himself to circumstances. He should neither feel nor claim that the habits, tastes, and customs of his own land and prior life arc indispensable. By seeking to arouse no needless friction — building up no foreign league or foreign church, but aiming to impart righteousness, love, and peace — he will find his own soul filled with hope and calm, and his nerves in no peril of a collapse. Health, cleanliness, and common-sense arc not confined to Occidental civilisa- tion. To one who longs for a quick passage across the Life in the Interior of China 115 Pacific, the port is most convenient. To one who plans and prays and lives and labours for the good, the salvation, and the liberalising of the Chinese, life in the interior is by no means a trial, a drudgery, or a terror. CHAPTER XX. THE MISSIONARY IN CHINESE COSTUME. F there is reason for a Chinaman to adopt the American costume when living in America, there is more reason for an American to adopt the Chinese costume when living in China. And yet we will allow excep- tions. By the careful consideration of circumstances, and the due comparison of profit and loss, there is reason against adopting the Chinese costume in one of the ports. For one foreigner to wear the Chinese dress while all his foreign associates, not only in the Mission circle but in business, wear the foreign dress, is to add oddity to oddity. Even the Chinese are forced to disapprove, unless the case be a visitor rather than a permanent resident. We speak, however, of the interior. What is Jilting at a port may not he equally fitting in the far distant parts of China, where foreign power and gunpowder supremacy are a fable or a dream. Reason in one set of circumstances may turn to lunacy in another. ' Truth the same the world over,' is no doubt an axiom; lad, for adaptation to environment, truth is ever presenting a. different likeness. But let us leave THE LATE REY. W. 0. BURNS, OXE OF THE FIRST MISSIONARIES TO ADOl'T THE NATIVE COSTUME, U.I The Missionary in Chinese Costume 1 1 9 philosophy to the great, while we common folk content ourselves with the unadorned reality. ' And why should a missionary in the interior of China wear the Chinese dress ? ' Don't frown, my friend, as you ask the question. Grant that not more than six or eight Americans wear the Chinese costume in China, yet remember that English, French, Italian, etc., are also found in China, and that they, more than the pushing Americans, are scattered up and down through every province in the empire. It seems a little curious that the common-sense Americans, who are supposed to be so wonderful in easily fitting into all circumstances, should be so prejudiced against the flowing robes of China ; while the conservative, im- pliable English should advocate change, progress, and conciliation. The China Inland Mission and the English Baptist Society are the two societies almost entirely confined to the interior, and their represent- atives, with but few exceptions, wear the Chinese dress. So also the Eoman Catholic priests, who plainly have given up all ties in their native land, conform in this particular to the people among whom they dwell. That missionaries in Siam, Japan, or India do not cease to wear their Western costume is no reason for a similar action in China. The Chinese are, of all the Oriental nations, the most proud, and the most determined to maintain their own peculiar ways. When the Chris- tian missionary finds in essential Christianity enough changes to insist on and exemplify, it is not prudence needlessly to arouse prejudice and contempt by urging changes that are more Western than Christian. Some missionaries adopt the Chinese costume because they estimate it to be cheaper. If one aims at economy alone, the Chinese costume is certainly I 20 Peeps into China cheaper ; but if one wishes to conform to the different grades of society, and at all times dress respectably, fitting his rank as a scholar and a guest, the question of economy is not so certain. Still, no doubt, if a foreigner in the interior wore a respectable foreign dress, he would find it more expensive in the long run than if he had worn the Chinese dress. The latter changes with the seasons, while always the same year after year; but the former changes with the style, that year after year presents an alteration. Others wear the dress because it is more conveniently obtained. Foreign tailors are not found all over China, and to send to the coast for a new suit, a new dress, a new pair of shoes, or a new tip-top bonnet, is not so easy as the mere idealist would fancy ; but where- ever in China, in any place of importance, a person needs a new Chinese outfit, the tailor can be ordered at once, and proper garments quickly and properly made. If a person should desire to leave some of his clothes till another year, it is only necessary to find a pawnshop, which is established by law and is a respectable institution, and there deposit his garments with good security. But by far the most important reason is that of conciliation, and so to a certain extent of duty. While the foreigner in foreign costume will attract a crowd wherever lie stops, whether at shop, house, or temple, the foreigner in Chinese costume will be in no way inconvenienced, and, what is more to the point, will not inconvenience others. As the Chinese regard the foreign dress — the short jacket and tights —as ridiculous, and in no sense respectable, the foreigner will to that extent suffer a loss. As the foreigner finds plenty of obstacles merely in his The Missionary in Chinese Costume 1 2 1 religion and himself, he hardly needs to add further obstacles by such a trifling matter as dress. He who desires to make acquaintance among the people, by going to their homes rather than by a hooting crowd, may find in the Chinese dress a simple plan for free- ing himself from annoyance, as well as his host. Besides, the Chinese dress naturally leads to the adop- tion of the Chinese etiquette. This also is of great advantage to both parties. The foreigner can thereby check all familiarity, since there is no excuse from being ignorant of Western etiquette ; and the China- man in turn will be respected according to rules which he himself knows. To promote mutual respect is difficult, but in China it is greatly aided by conformity to a long-established code of politeness. Thus the spirit of peace will be manifested and developed. He who preaches the full Gospel will meet enough of oppo- sition without unnecessarily increasing it by oddity in dress or deficiency in politeness. To be sure, if the Chinese costume is adopted, it should be with a certain amount of taste and decency, and not as a mongrel or a crank. If any improvements are to be made, let the Chinaman first make the discovery, and set the example. Wearing the dress is only a small part of a general policy, viz. conciliation and adaptation, mutual respect and friendliness. But the objection may arise, ' Is there not a clanger of acting the fraud and hypocrite ? ' We think not, unless one makes special effort to conceal his identity. By carrying out the spirit and motive that first led to the adoption of the Chinese dress, all charges of secret motives will be overcome, and the plain intention to do good and be at peace will be acknowledged. He who wears a dress-suit at an evening party in 122 Peeps into China America or Europe honours his host, and shows him- self a gentleman to that extent ; and he who wears the Chinese dress when a guest in China likewise honours, pleases, and conciliates. ' Be all things to all men,' is an important rule, even in China. That many a missionary has been successful while dis- regarding such a matter as dress is true ; but if we once discuss the question of dress in its bearings upon the critical, self-satisfied people of China, we soon learn that at the bottom of the discussion there are vital principles, and that the end of all is, that we might ' by all means save some.' CHAPTER XXT. FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH CHINESE MANDARINS. HE aim ever kept before me in the city of Chi-nan-fu was to make friends of the Chinese, and thereby, if possible, make some friends of truth and servants of Christ. I sought to recognise the good in Chinese teachings, customs, and religion. I planned for conciliation by the path of conformity. Coming to a large city and a proud people, I wished to remove the prejudice against foreigners and Christianity b} r adopting as far as possible Chinese ways, dress, and mode of thought. I first of all fitted up a Chinese guest-room, where Chinese guests might be received in Chinese style, and feel at home without being disrespectful or familiar. I purchased an official costume to be worn on occasions of ceremony, and, more than all, I secured the instruction of an expectant of office, that I might be versed on points of etiquette and expressions of respect. In about a month I was equipped ; and, in accordance with Chinese requirements and good manners, I started forth to pay my respects to the leading officials of the capital, and to inform them of my intended residence 123 124 Peeps into China in their midst, and of my hearty desire for their con- tinued peace and prosperity. I sat in my sedan-chair, 1H - . --. » -3te" ||Eig Wm M ^fer ~m ill A MANDARIX. with a 'runner' to lake my card and announce my business. First Experience with Chinese Mandarins 125 First I went to the yamen, or official residence of the governor, and waited in my chair till orders should come from above. Soon a man appeared bearing my card, bowed the knee, and said, ' His excellency has too great public business ; he gives a salutation of peace.' On we moved to the next yamin, that of the provincial treasurer. After a delay, my servant returned with the response, ' His honour has guests.' And forth we went to the residence of the provincial judge, and there the words were, ' Xot at home.' Then to the yamen of the Taotai, or circuit mandarin, and there, ' Public business.' Then to the prefect, and there, ' Too busy.' Lastly we went to the district magistrate, and lo ! ' Not at home.' While proud of no creat success, I felt contented, as I had made no mistake in conversing with said mandarins, and had given them full respect by coming to their doors in a sedan to worship their excellencies. It only remained for them to reciprocate. One day, two days, three days, a week and more, and no great men appeared at my door to return my call of ceremony. Not even did a card come to wish me well. Alas ! the poor ' foreign devil ' had observed a Chinese code of etiquette, and the high mandarin broke the code to snub the guest. My blood arose, and I pommelled my head to find a brilliant idea. Forth marched this scheme of action : the Taotai is always regarded as bound to attend to the business of foreigners; I would write him a respectful letter, saying I had previously called, and as I had gained no interview my heart was ill at ease, for I had important business. The scheme was a good one. A letter was written and despatched ; and a reply came, appointing a day Lo receive me. My pulse beat faster, and 1 126 Peeps into China began to tremble. I was to stand in the presence of a mandarin for the first time, and the reputation of my country and Church must not thereby suffer any tarnish. Tor four days I drilled on every little point of ceremony, and developed my theme. And what was my theme and my business ? It was to gain official assistance for the erection of a hospital, for which we bad the money, but for which we were unable to secure any property. What better object to gain favour and show friendliness? The day came, and once more I went forth in my sedan, dressed in high style. The yamen was reached ; the card was taken in ; a little delay, and then the summons to enter. The chair was lowered, and I stepped forth. As I walked ahead I saw a man holding my large red card above him. I shook clown over my hands the fur culls of my gown, and, with amazing dignity, followed my guide through a gateway. Soon I saw farther on an official, who waited to accompany me to the guest-room or reception-hall. Not a word was spoken, and I stepped politely ahead and entered the room. Each to each bowed to the ground in Chinese style ; the first word was then spoken, and the guest took his seat. As I looked at the mandarin I failed to recognise him as the man previously described to me as the Taotai. I thought however, I must lie mistaken, and so addressed him as 'great man' — 'his honour.' His first sentence was, ' What public business ? ' This seemed to me a very unceremonious way of receiving a stranger, and my heart sank ten degrees. Still I boldly stated my business, and asked for assistance in our undertaking to beneiit the people. No particular response was given of a, friendly nature, and I was about preparing 127 First Experience with Chinese Mandarins 129 to leave, when another mandarin entered, and, after salutation, took a seat below the other. I also, by request, stated to him my business ; and then very soon a third mandarin appeared, and this time 1 recognised the Taotai. For a third time I stated the business, my vocabulary receiving thereby a severe shock as to its scope and beauty. From him I received a kind response, when lo ! a fourth mandarin appeared, saluted me, and sat immediately below the Taotai and above the other two. There, arrayed opposite to me, were four Chinese mandarins, and my hopes at once arose, and my heart went up twenty degrees. They all, and especially the Taotai, expressed approval of the hospital scheme, and promise was given to petition tin,' governor in regard to the matter. After chatting for some time I departed. My expectations were great. Never before in China had T felt happier. We were actually to be aided in founding a hospital. I could have sung, if my official garments and grand circumstances had not forbidden. I preserved my dignity, and smothered my hallelujahs. Thus ended my first attempt at reaching the mandarins. As to the hospital, nothing of import resulted, except a reply from the governor, approving of the beneficent idea of the hospital, but giving no assistance or promise, save one of protection, if we ourselves should purchase property for the purpose indicated. An experiment, an experience, a little romance, a story to tell, — this is the benefit that still abides ! CHAPTER XXII. NEAR DEATHS POOR IN A HEATHEN LAND. T was toward the close of the summer in the year 1882. The days were still those of sultry heat ; the sun, shining throughout the clay in scorching rays, was succeeded by all the alarming suddenness of cool nights ; and illness, with exhaustion and tremor, with watching and care, came ' as a thief in the night.' The ones to suffer, and to learn by suffering, were the members of the English Baptist Mission in the city of Ch'ing- chow-fu, some seven days' journey from the port of Chefoo. First to be laid low was Mrs. Jones, young and delicate, and not long a bride. The physician in the Mission, Dr. Kitts, had not yet got control of the case when a letter came from the oldest member of the Mission, Rev. Timothy Richard, at Chi-nan-fu, one hundred and twenty miles away, telling how he was suddenly attacked with dysentery, living in a Chinese inn with no foreign friend to care for him. By consulta- tion, and with all the nobleness of helpfulness and with a strong affection for the absent brother, directions Near Dcatlis Door in a Heathen Land 131 were given for the emergencies of the case in hand, and .Dr. Kitts hastened away. Through the day and all through the night he rode his horse, and then exchanged him for animals on the way. A messenger meets him, bringing the news, ' Better.' With heart somewhat at ease, the journey was resumed. A few hours later came another messenger, travelling at his utmost speed. In his hand he held a crumpled note, and on it were traced the wavering lines: ' Farewell, my dear brethren; bury me at Ch'ing-chow-fu. A few words will lie found in my note-book.' When the sad news reached the friends at Ch'ing- chow-fu, both natives and foreigners, Christian and heathen, burst into tears ; for Mr. Richard was a man most deeply loved and respected. Immediately the desire arose to render further help, or at least honour, if death should prove inevitable. Knowing that Rev. Mr. Jones had better remain with his wife, and that the journey would be too severe for Mrs. Kitts, the only other person in the little company — one who had been in the country only about a year, the Rev. Mr. Whiteright — hurriedly folded up his bundle of clothes, and after all had knelt in prayer lie took his seat in a cart, and started off, whether to the dying or the dead he knew not, It was near midnight as he started ; the lantern was fastened to the vehicle : the driver lifted his whip ; an anxious heart went forth to help, and other anxious hearts were left behind to wonder and fear, to mourn and to pray. One who had toiled so earnestly and perseveringly in establishing a Chris- tian Church among the Chinese ; one who had saved the lives of thousands in the famine-time, and whose sympathetic heart was always made sore by sights of 132 Peeps into China distress; one who had commanded the respect of the higher classes with as much success as any missionary of modern times ; one whose plans were directed to many a year of usefulness in the future, and whose adaptability was growing more intense as well as more wise and circumspect — was, alas, perhaps even now breathing his last ! iHINESE I'AKT. Over the rough road the earl went, with an anxious and sad man inside. In thirty-seven hours — a won- derful speed for China — the journey was completed. Entering the inn, the sick man was found to be much better, while the physician watched by his side. The busy city was made busier by thousands of scholars, Near Deattis Door in a Heathen Land 133 who had conic to the large triennial examination for the Master's Degree. The streets and courts were often drenched by the heavy summer showers, and then, sinking into slime and heated by the hot rays of the sun, breathed forth the breath of pestilence and death. Finding more comfortable quarters in the house of an American missionary who was absent from the city, the trio began to feel new life and new hope. In two days, however, after frequent loss of sleep and appetite, the physician himself was likewise attacked with dysentery. Hardly able to move, and threatened with a fever that a year before had nearly brought his life to an end, his case seemed as critical as the other. While he was growing worse, the third man was attacked with dysentery also. Almost indifferent to the fate of the others, each man laid himself down in the one room, unable to care for another, and as little for oneself. Two messengers were despatched at once — one to the nearest physician and one to Mrs. Kitts. When Mrs. Kitts received the fearful intelligence, she too started forth in the hot sun ; travelled without rest, weary and lonely ; passed through flooded fields and hostile towns ; and at last, when hours had been lengthened by an excited imagination and trembling heart, she reached the busy city and the room of the prostrate ones. But, thanks to a kind Providence, disease had been checked, and hope once more revived. Cheerfulness again dwelt in all hearts, and the gentle care and tender words of woman caused the smile to appear and gave strength to the body. In a few days they all returned to their home, to salute the remaining 134 Peeps into China two, the Eev. Mr. Jones and his wife, and to rejoice together over the release from danger and the restora- tion to health, ft seemed as if God had performed in their midst a miracle, and had meant to teach some wonderful lesson. CHAPTEE XXIII. MISSIONARY WORK AMID THE MEMORIES OF CHINA'S SAGES. HE important region of the province of Shan-timg, where Confucius, Mencius, and their disciples lived, taught, and died, and where temples are now raised to their honour, has been for the most part neglected by the missionary. It has been assumed that Confucianism is harder to overcome than idolatry ; and the assumption is sound. Should we, therefore, keep shy of our strong antagonist ? The region of the sages comprises two prefectures, Yenchow-fu and Chi-ning-chow — the former having ten counties and the latter four. In the spring and autumn of 1886 I visited a portion of this region , to prepare the way for a peaceful prosecution of mission- ary labours. Knowing the difficulty of the work and the prejudices of the people, I determined as far as possible, by costume, custom, and sentiment, to conform to as well as approve of the ideas and ways of the people I visited. Knowing that the power rested in the hands of the upper and ruling classes, I determined at the outset to cultivate their friendship and secure 135 136 Peeps into China some of their favour. The officials, gentry, and masses should alike be recognised, though difficulties may exist more with one class than another. It is hard to commend our religion to the proud Chinaman, and it is, it' anything, harder to commend ourselves. By a certain class the foreigner is more abhorred than his religion, and many a native Christian has been perse- cuted more for his connection with the foreigner than 'for righteousness' sake.' 'It must needs be that offences come, but woe to that man by whom they come.' Let us visit together a few of these cities, and see how we may be treated. In the city of ISTing-yang, situated on the main road, and accustomed to the sight of foreigners, I was for the most part ignored. A few schoolmasters and storekeepers conversed on geography, astronomy, and foreign machinery, but appeared uncomfortable at the mention of religious topics. In the open court of the chief temple I sold a few books, but my revenue could hardly suffice for a cup of tea. In trying to gain an interview with the district magistrate he at first excused himself, but when he learned that my dress and eticpiette were Chinese lie granted me leave to pay my respects. Having established relations in the spring, it was easier in the autumn. He treated me well as a guest, but evidently was not an ' anxious inquirer.' Still, if we fail to make a convert of a mandarin, let us at least try to make him a friend. If he will not accept, regeneration, let him be imbued with toleration. "Wen-shang is a district where Roman Catholics have established themselves in some of the villages. My need, therefore, was to explain the distinction between Roman Catholics and rrotestants. For Work amid the Memories of Chinas Sages 1 3 7 several days I was kept busy in receiving guests at the inn, many of whom were inclined to talk on religious questions and examine the books which I Lad brought. In the autumn visit I entered the city the day after the departure of the lvoman Catholic bishop, a zealous and aggressive Bohemian. Though we both wore the "00' official costume in calling on the magistrate, he claimed that he was of the very highest rank and button and, so, superior to the Chinese on whom he called. My own aim was to establish friendship rather than claim authority. He came to the city to settle riots, and I entered with no request, demand, or threat. The advantage was certainly all on my side, or on the side of my religion. Chi-ning-chow is the second largest city in the province. For upwards of ten years we have rented property there, and at present have a small house, the front of which can be used as a street-chapel. In my spring trip my helper and I preached each day to the people from ten till four o'clock. As to inquirers there were a few, as to the 'plrbs there was a plenty, as to the literati there were none, and as to the mandarin of the district and prefecture he was at first opposed to making the acquaintance of a foreigner, but at last yielded so far as to grant an interview, return the call, and send a feast. Cbow-hsien is the city of Mencius. On both visits I was well received by every class — official, teacher, storekeeper, priest, farmer, and retired gentleman. The chief descendant of Mencius was a great opium-smoker, and sol only saw other members of his family. It is one thing to accept the foreigner's opium, and another the foreigner's religion. One evening I went to make a call on a friend, and there I found a strong Con- 138 Peeps into China fucianist, a Taoist priest, and a small military official, while in the midst was the opium-pipe. I discoursed to them of duty, virtue, and heaven ; but the opium had more of a hold than my fine sayings or true teachings. Chu-fu is the quiet city of Confucius, about half of which was the estate of the family. The official here was unusually kind and respectful. He ordered the various constables to keep the peace, and instructed my innkeeper to remember that I was a guest from afar, and must have everything comfortable and pleasant. In the spring I received a great many callers ; but in the autumn, owing to certain rumours, which had come from an adjoining city, all friends were frightened away, and my efforts seemed useless, except to keep the friendship and sympathy of the official. The city of Yenchow-fu is an important one, and jealous of all intrusion. In the spring I was unusually well received, but on my visit in the autumn I found certain anonymous placards posted up throughout the city, saying that the foreigner was there to build a church and to deceive the people. I soon learned that the main cause of this was a previous visit of the Eoman Catholic bishop, who came to search for property. This being the most important centre of his circuit, he was anxious to make it his headquarters. On my arrival I sent my cards to the different officials of this important place, for the purpose of explaining my own intentions and avoiding trouble. Xo interview, however, was granted. New placards were issued, evidently directed against me, it being supposed that 1 too was intending to purchase property. My life was threatened, and the people were aroused to enmity against the foreigner. A part of this time I was absent ; but on my return, seeing the situation, I sent my pass- Work amid t fie Memories of China! s Sages 139 port to the officials. Still nothing was done, and no pro- tection rendered. I immediately left for Chi-ning-chow, and from there sent a telegram to the American consul at Tientsin, who advised me to petition the governor. I sent a short petition by telegram, but for several days received no reply. I soon had to leave for our annual mission-meeting, and on my arrival there found a telegram awaiting me from the governor, say- ing that he had ordered the local officials to settle satisfactorily all difficulties. On my return to the provincial capital, I secured, after considerable planning, an interview with the governor. He gave a certain amount of assurance of protection for the future, and received the petition I had prepared on the case. From this account the difficulties of our work in China may be seen. Obstacles beset us on every side. We are, in fact, only at the beginning, and mighty problems still remain. 1 1 In the spring of 1S87 I again visited this saint' region. I I'ouml everything encouraging, except in the city of Yenchow-fu. Tin officials still granted no interviews, and new placards were issued against the Roman Catholics. Later on the Roman Catholic bishop purchased some property, which resulted in riots, lie also purchased some property in Chi-ning-chow, which also resulted in a riot. We were compelled, for the sake of peace, to give up our rental in conse- rpicnce. The bishop took his case to Peking, and found more or less of difficulty in securing any soil of redress. The value of the plan I adopted has been largely injured, owing to the general feeling of hostility that has been created. CHAPTER XXR r . A MISSIONARY 8 FIRST VISIT TO A CHINESE GOVERNOR. NE of the most difficult things in China is to secure recognition from the mandarin. The higher the rank and the greater the power, the more unwillingly will he grant an inter- view. Ministers plenipotentiary arc hardly recognised as equals, and for them to be respectfully received by the emperor himself would be a sign of unparalleled favour. Consuls, even, have been refused a personal interview by high provincial authorities. Seclusion is still strong in China, though more and more yielding to the broad, progressive spirit of Western powers. If Chinese officials of high rank grant an audience to foreigners, it will be done most easily first to ministers and ambassadors, then consuls, then heads of syndicates, then Roman Catholic bishops, then merchants, and last of all to Protestant missionaries. The last have for the most part sought no influence with the officials of China, unless under the pressure ui' important business, such as personal protection or the settlement of cases of grievous persecution. Such visits could hardly be regarded as visits of ceremony, or of any social nature whatever ; neither do they 140 First Visit to a Chinese Governor 141 appear as personal visits, for generally aid has first been rendered by the proper representatives of one's own Government. It is one thing to secure recognition because appearing under the wing of a foreign official, and quite another and more difficult matter to make really a personal call, and be granted a personal favour. So far as I know, only three or four Protestant mission- aries have secured interviews with provincial governors or viceroys, unless acting in the capacity of interpreter or consul. The difficulties to be met are hardly appreci- ated, except by those conversant with the prevailing Chinese sentiment. From the time the governor, Chang Van, assumed power in the province of Shan-tung, in the summer of 1 8SG, it became my purpose to secure an interview, if possible ; and this not from any assumption of foreign official rank, or from any aid from a foreign power, but entirely in accordance with Chinese usage and pn ipriety. Shortly after his arrival in the capital, I went in person to pay my respects to his excellency. Though not securing an audience, I was favoured with a return card, which in Chinese eyes was a polite recognition from a high mandarin in office, and gave encourage- ment for the future. Later on I prepared a little account in ( liinese of our Western methods of control- ling rivers, which 1 sent him, as an aid to his manage- ment of the Yellow Paver. T received a respectful reply, with copies of his memorials to the throne. Besides this, I had previously had correspondence with him in regard to protection in a certain city which I had visited. Thus I had two subjects for conversation and two matters of business. Desirous of completing my work of preparation, I sent the 142 Peeps into China governor a few books and a scroll of foreign pictures mounted in Chinese fashion. While doing this I had to avoid the appearance of a formal gift, which might possibly have necessitated their rejection, and on the other hand the gift must needs be sufficiently respect- ful and desirable. At the most, this was only an IMMML'iWIWi I'jlj'.W'i ",'{.|gi COUETYAKD 01' MANDARINS HHT T SF.. experiment for feeling my way along. Much to my joy, the gifts were accepted, and a subordinate was sent to express the governor's thanks. The following day I determined to make my trial, ami the ins and outs seemed about equal. In proper Chinese costume T went to the governor's First Visit to a Chinese Governor 143 official residence, and stated my business to be two things — the Yellow River and a Church matter. From early morn till sundown visitors were seeking admit- tance, most of whom were politely excused. It was to be feared that my unofficial request would meet with a similar fatality, but a kind Providence knew the prayer of my heart, and saw the desirability of the act. Finally I was ' asked up higher,' by being invited within. I was met in the open court by a special officer, who assists the governor in managing public business, and who has been associated with the governor for over ten years. He conducted me to one of the reception-rooms, and entertained me till the governor himself appeared. (Ivor three hours had been spent in these preliminaries. On the appearance of the august gentleman I arose, and in Chinese fashion we bowed to each other. Being seated, the governor first thanked me for the document I had previously sent him, and then stated the different obstacles he had to encounter in the control of the Yellow River. He then referred to the topic concerning which we had previously corre- sponded by telegram, and I arose and handed to him the petition on the question. Reading it, he said if the local authorities perfectly understood the matter the trouble might be avoided. My own remarks were few, as becoming one in the presence of august great- ness. We sipped our tea, and arose. Saluting each other in true style, he then accompanied me through the first court, from which I was further conducted by subordinate officials to the large entrance without. CHAPTER XXV. A SACKED MOUNTAIN IX CHINA. T was the early spring of 1SS7 when I visited the city of T'ai-an-fu, which lies at the base of the sacred mountain of T'ai- shan — ' the Great Mountain.' This moun- tain is one of the five sacred mountains of China, which received the worship of ancient emperors. No mountain is more renowned as a place for worship than this one, situated in the western part of the province of Shan-tung, and only some sixty miles from the birthplace of Confucius — another important centre of religious adoration. Some four thousand years ago an ancient ruler, Shuin, whose teachings were largely absorbed by the sage Confucius, came to the mountain of T'ai-shan and sacrificed to Heaven. Before the Lord descended in majestic glory on Mount Sinai, and imparted to the sage Moses the world-embracing 1 >ecalogue ; there was a seeking of help and a spirit of reverential adoration arising from the heart of an ancient sage of China. Where in all (lie world is there a more historical mountain, made sacred by the lofty worship of ancient days '. Let us uncover our heads as we approach ; for A Sacred Mountain in China 145 here, loo, God must have made Himself known, as men listened to the voice of conscience, and saw the grandeur of Nature, and here knelt down in holy adoration. But, alas, the spirit of the ancient fathers has departed, and to-day the mountain and the city are wholly given to idolatry, and the 'glory of the incor- ruptible God' has been changed into images 'made like to corruptible man.' To preach the Gospel here is to destroy the merchandise of the people, and to tell of a living God is to malign the gods whom they adore, and to turn the world upside down. On the summit of the mountain, occupying a conspicuous position, with a magnificent panorama spread out on every side, is the leading temple, in which is an image representing the spirit of the mountain — a goddess as reverently worshipped as was Diana of the Ephesians. Before this image, dividing the main compartment, are bars, through which the infatuated people cast in their cash, hoping for every conceivable blessing. In a little room to the side the goddess is represented as asleep, and cash is placed on the eyelids, nose, mouth, or other portions of the body — all showing an indefinite superstition, at the basis of which is a want. The main hall of this temple is the most attractive of all I he temples on the mountain. The tiles of the roof weigh some thirty pounds apiece, and the whole material has been brought up from the plain below. As a temple, however, there are countless in China far superior, but few which can command more sincere worship. For the first four months of each Chinese year multitudes of pilgrims of all classes and sections of the country wend their way to this sacred mountain to bow before the guardian spirit, and then go away K 146 Peeps into China in peace. Near to the leading temple is a tablet which was erected by the famous Emperor K'ang-tsi, who during his reign took a journey through the country, and visited this sacred place. Not far away is another tablet, called the ' unlettered tablet,' supposed to have been erected over two thousand years ago by the emperor who built the Great Wall and burned the Chinese literature, the first emperor of China. The tablet is of solid granite, eighteen feet high and four feet by two, and on it is carved only one letter, that meaning ' ruler.' Thus it is that the highest in the empire as well as the poorest are attracted to this place, if not in person at least by representatives — men made in the image of God worshipping a spirit of their own imaginations. Forgetting the darkness of depraved hearts, let us seek to admire the glory of God's created handiwork, and ascend to the summit, that rises upward only some four thousand feet, and means a journey from the city of only some six miles. Not by the steam of railway or the luxury of easy carriage did we ascend the moun- tain, but by riding on men's shoulders over a narrow stone-way, a large part of which was solid stone stairs, becoming steeper and steeper as the summit is approached. In the earl)' morning we went out into the court of the inn in the city, ready for our little excursion. There I saw two or three small pieces of board, about a. foot and a. half long, through which passed cords and straps. How this conglomeration could be transformed into a comfortable chair did not take long to disclose. Two men stood by, one behind and one in front. The one behind lifted up a strap, and I at once saw a place for a seat. Sitting down, the one in front lifted up A Sacred Mountain in China 147 another strap, and the two then slinging the straps across their shoulders, started on a half-run out of the inn and down the street, past a temple dedicated to the spirit of the mountain, out through the city gate, across the plain shaded by cypress trees, and on and up the side of the mountain. Ere we had crossed the plain of a mile or two. the men had begun to take a slow, measured gait, slingiug the strap now over one shoulder and then over the other, thus giving the rider a good chance to take different views of the scenery, while at the same time easing the carriers. This was the method for the most part while ascending, but on descending the men came down the stone stairway with a run, giving the excursionist an exhilaration that even the grandeur of the scenery could not impart ! There was strength, agility, and science in the achievements of these coolies, whose wages for the day were less than a dollar fur the foreigner, and still less for a Chinaman. Another striking yet sad peculiarity was the sight of beggars crowding on every side, now coming forth from holes in the rocks, now from plain mud sheds — the old and the young crying for a cash (a tenth of a cent), and stirring in the breast of a stranger a feel- ing of compassion. Being somewhat hardened by my contact with the heathen, as well as somewhat more crafty, I told them to wait till I came down the hill ; and, coming clown, I had several ways of neglecting my promise, one the absence of the same parties, and another the speed that we made forbidding an itemised method of liberality. Owing to this, I managed to keep free from bankruptcy. My conscience did not trouble me much, for I knew that most of the begtrars were from the neighbourhood, who had homes 148 Peeps into China of their own (after a fashion), and were abundantly able to work, and eat their own bread. The scenery grand and picturesque, the memories august and inspiring, the worshippers many and sincere, Nature pointing to God, and man forgetting Him, — this is the story of the mountain trip. Through a gully that winds its way zig-zag while winding up- wards, with rocks looking down in solemn stillness, and here and there trees to shade the path, while the clouds rolled past and over, as if unheeding the glory beneath, we moved leisurely along, now up and now down, but at last up to the very top, and there, from the temple court, did we gaze at the panorama of peaks and plains, valleys and rivers, city and country hamlets. And here, on the summit of the sacred mountain, one asks the question, 'If all Nature praises God, why should not man ? ' And to answer this question aright, the missionary lias come to point to the perfect Man, and so to the perfect God. CHAPTER XXVI. FIRST ATTEMPT AT TRANSLATION INTO CHINESE. HAD been in China some four years and a half, and was living in a provincial capital, the city of Chi-nan-fu. An English sur- veyor and civil engineer had been engaged by the governor to make a survey and inspection of a section of the Grand Canal that passes through the province of Shan-tung. He had come with a native interpreter, but after some three months of trial the man had proved incapable. The Englishman returned to the city, after the completion of his task, to report to the governor. It was desirable to send a written report to the governor prior to a personal interview. The English copy was made, but tl lis was unintelligible to the mandarin. The Englishman, furthermore, was unskilled in the Chinese language. His interpreter was incompetent. The accompanying Chinese officials were anxious to hurry up the work, as the governor was demanding a copy of the report, notwithstanding all impossibilities. Being a friend of (lie Englishman, I one day remarked that if I could do anything to 1 50 Peeps into China help I would be willing to render the help. This offer was seized by the anxious engineer, and he asked leave to mention my name to the governor for translating the report for 100 taels, or about twenty-eight pounds. I consented, and my doom was sealed. In two days the reply came, granting me the right to undertake the task. When the consent came my doubts and fears began. "Would my translation prove sufficiently literal for the Englishman and classical for the mandarin ? Would some skilled interpreter at the coast see the result, and mercilessly criticise it ? With these cpiestionings of a trembling heart I recalled the advantages to be derived. I would help the Englishman out of a dilemma ; I would save the minor officials from the wratli of their superior; I would be learning Chinese; I would be helping the hospital-fund of our Mission by a hundred taels ; but more than all, 1 would once more gain the notice of the governor, and perhaps gain a slight countenance — a very important thing, as just at that time I had sent him a petition about the settlement of certain riots. At least I was willing to take the risk, and afterwards reckon up the "pros and cons. I immediately took up the report. Alas, il was thirty-three pages of foolscap paper. I began to read, but the penmanship here and there needed interpret- ing into clearer English. 1 returned to my home, and began at once by myself to put the first few pages into Chinese. The shadows deepened : my fears increased; ray head as well as heart throbbed. Till eleven o'clock at night I worked, and then retired to First Attempt at Translation into Chinese 151 much sleeplessness and little rest. In two clays a competent native teacher was secured for me, and my work became easier. Still, the governor was hasten- ing the work, and my first attempt really needed time and thought and careful correction. The English sentences were many of them prolix, and some in addition needed explanation. Many technical terms were found, like ' galvanic battery,' ' compressed air,' ' datum - line,' ' levels,' and ' valves.' Here it was in the midst of summer, when my colleagues were all out of the city resting, and with hearts at ease, while I was toiling by ' the sweat of my brow.' In a week's time the translation was made, but it needed perusal and improvement. The governor, however, was still pestering the minor officials ; and so, after a few corrections by themselves and the teacher, it was copied and sent to his excellency. In a few days the Englishman received an appoint- ment to an audience. I was asked to accompany him. I consented, if I went as a friend, and not in the capacity of an interpreter, which is reckoned as an inferior rank. All this was satisfactorily settled, and we all went to the governor's yamin. Much to my joy, there was no difficult interpreting. The governor of his own accord referred to the riots that had arisen, and showed the greatest interest in the work of the Mission. Other matters besides that of the English- man's survey were considered, and our worldly friend sat by in silence. For once the missionary and so- called ' merchant ' sat side by side, helping one another in the development of China. Men of different nationalities appeared as friends even in matters of 152 Peeps into China business. Pleased by the respect that was shown, and knowing the salutary effect this call would have on all who would hear of it, I felt at the last thankful ; and when the money came my work was done. &r CHAPTEK xxvi r. A STORY OF RIOTS. HE city of Chi-nan-fu, being a provincial capital, is necessarily the head of official influence throughout the province. The highest provincial authorities are governor, treasurer, judge, chancellor, and salt commissioner — all resident at the capital. The province is divided into three circuits, over each one being stationed a Taotai, one of whom resides at the capital. The province is next divided into ten prefectures and ninety -six districts, with the respective officials, pre- fect, and magistrate, one of each being located at the capital. So much for officialdom. The capital, with a population of some 200,000, consists of the city proper, around the wall of which there are east, south and west suburbs, likewise surrounded by a wall. The population here, as elsewhere in China, consists of officials, resident gentry, who for the most part are retired officials, the literati, who possess only a literary degree, and the masses. So much for the conditions. In the year 1871 the city was first occupied as a Protestant mission station by the Kev. Mr. MTlvaine, 153 154 Peeps into China of the American Presbyterian Mission. Up to the time of his death in 1881, all property had been held by rental, but at that time property was purchased on the main street for a preaching-hall. This act raised a riot, resulting in the sealing of the door by the officials, and a reference of the case to the United States Minister and the Chinese Foreign Office. After two years of deliberation and delay the Secretary of Legation came in person to the capital, and, by conference and compromise, secured a transfer of property with requisite compensation in money. Having thereby some £600 on hand, the station has been desirous of using it in the purchase of property for a hospital. At the close of 1885, after a con- ference with the Taotai, prefect, and magistrate, promise was secured from the governor to protect us in the purchase of property for such purposes in the suburbs. As a trial step, a small house in the east suburb was secured for a free school at the beginning of 1887. The hold on (he property was one of lease or mortgage, in which the amount of money paid over was nearly the same as in case of purchase. The deed had a clause fixing the term of years as three, and also another one indicating possible redemption within that period. So much for data. Now for the story. Aboul noon of the last day of April 188 7, while preaching on 'Peace' at a Gospel tent erected at an annual fair, a note came from my colleague, the Eev. Mr. Chalfant, saying that a mob was assembling in the south suburb, to attack a small house lately purchased by one of our native helpers. This riot was instigated and led on by the gentry, literati, and head men of the south suburb. Having previously been informed of the probability of such a A Story of Riots. 1 5 5 riot, I immediately postponed my sermon, and prepared for action. I at once reported the case to the Taotai, and asked for prompt attention. Before persons were sent, our helper bad relinquished his deed to the former owner, and the riot subsided. On May 2, Dr. Coltman and myself had a lengthy conference with the Taotai and three other officials. The Taotai strangely said that no guarantee could be given of protecting the native Christians, but that the foreigners need have no fear for themselves. As we had been informed that a riot would next attack our schoolhouse, we decided to lay emphasis on our own future protection. Alter some argument, the Taotai ordered the magistrate to see that no riots should again occur, and also requested me to inform the said official of the exact location of the property and the parties concerned in the lease. It is needless to say that my part was well done. On May 5, two of the schoolboys excitedly came to inform me that a riot was gathering, and that some men had already entered the schoolhouse. 1 went this time in person to the scene of action, and also sent my card to the magistrate, asking for protection. Arriving at the school, all was quiet. The rioters, under the lead of the head men of the cast suburb, bad carried off the landlord and go-between, and had threatened them with another riot unless the property should be redeemed in half a month. The following day I handed to the magistrate the names of the leaders of the riot, and secured another promise of protection — for ourselves, homes, chapel, school, landlord, and middle-man. For several days I took up my residence at the school, as there were rumours of another riot. A proclamation 156 Peeps into China was issued by the magistrate, and special orders were given to the local constables to keep a sharp inspection. On the morning of May 19, as half a month was up, another riot began to assemble. Being previously advised of the danger, I had already reported it to the Taotai, who in turn referred it to the governor. The result was that strict orders were issued to the magistrate, and by the time the rioters began to assemble at a temple he went forth to restrain them, accompanied by a joint magistrate and two hundred followers. Arriving at the place of rendezvous, there was found a crowd of over three hundred. The officials, knowing no way to disperse the rioters, summoned the landlord, and, in the presence of the hooting mob, examined him as to the nature of the deed, and finally, as a balm to these disturbers of peace, ordered him to redeem his property in half a month. The officials then sent their cards to me at the school- house, saying they had suppressed the riot, and had consulted with the head men, who said the property must be redeemed. I sent back my thanks, and added, ' If the head men say the property must be redeemed, I say it must not be redeemed.' On May 21, the Taotai invited me to an interview with himself and four subordinates. The deed was the topic of discussion, and finally a copy of it was given them. I also prepared for the governor and Taotai a petition, showing the meaning of the deed and our legal right to possession. The governor appointed deputies to mediate, and the only one of the gentry in the east suburb likewise exerted himself to quell all further disturbance. After several weeks of consideration of plans, the decision was reached that A Story of Riots 157 we need be iu no haste to give up our possession of the property, but could first purchase satisfactorily other property. A stronger promise than before was given to protect, suppress riots, stamp deeds, and assist in pacifying the people. The governor throughout the whole matter has acted with vigour, and with a certain amount of justice. His friendship has been the main assistance. He, with the other officials, has promised to subscribe to our hospital-fund, but we await the future for real results. Thus the gloomy transforms itself into the pleasing, and, by the aid of ' the powers that be,' we hope for peace and goodwill. CHAlTEi; XXVI II. PltOUKESSlVE CHINA. N the year 188 7 China took a step in advance. It seems like a giant's stride. The strong conservative spirit of the centuries is changing with a broad look at the future. Demands and dangers dawn upon the statesman's vision, and he arouses himself and pre- pares for action. China must protect herself from rivals as well as foes ; and not only by gunboats, arsenals, military prowess, cannons, torpedoes, and a martial spirit, but by education. Education, moreover, must reach beyond the routine of China's classics and mere essay-writing, and embrace the learning and experience of the West. So thinks the Chinese Government of to-day. ( lue memorial to the throne says, ' It is high time that some plan should be devised for infusing new strength into the Government of China.' Yes, the demand is imperative. Russia presses down upon her from the north, England and France from the south and sea, Japan more and more from the east, and ( iermany and the United States by the complications of mighty syndicates, if nothing else. Who is the 15S Progressive China 159 friend wise in counsel, true of heart, courageous and yet cautious, to help to guide the nation in her ever- increasing dangers \ That friend must come from among the people of the land itself, and be one who knows the world as well as China. Several years ago an Imperial College was started, under the shadow of the Chinese Foreign Office, to study Western languages and sciences. It was placed under the charge of the Rev. Dr. William P. Martin, a man of broad culture and upright character. The institution has moved along with no marked signs of recognition or success ; but in waiting for more favourable opportunities, inevitable in the future, there has been shown patience, prudence, faith. Already Dr. Martin has proved a valuable adviser of the Government, and now his wishes, so long frustrated, may be grandly fulfilled. The proposition is to introduce mathematics, astronomy, and kindred studies into the provincial and metropolitan examinations. While the usual Chinese regulations and topics are to be maintained, new life is to be breathed into the system, and new lines to be marked out for the youthful ambitions of the literati of China. The young aspirants are to be examined ' in the following subjects/ says the memorial of the Board of Foreign Affairs : ' philosophy, mathematics, mechanics, engineering, naval and mili- tary tactics, marine artillery, torpedoes, international law, and history.' In this outline there is no reference to those studies that form a classical education, and that in the West are deemed all-important in a well-regulated university. The philosophy mentioned is evidently natural philo- sophy, not mental or moral philosophy. In this we 1 60 Peeps into China see a defect, though the tendency of the Chinese Government is only that of the new generation of thinkers in the West, viz. a craze for science, and an ignoring of the mind. We do not, however, regard this so much as the natural bent of Chinese thought, as an impression the Chinese have received that in the West all true education is mere science, or rather material science. In the Chinese classics, ethics and politics and psychology all have a deep root, and it is to he hoped that the Chinese may soon learn that Western prosperity is other than material power, and Western education other than material knowledge. It should also be understood that the spirit of the progressive Chinese, while favouring Western knowledge, is still deeply jealous of Chinese control and Chinese customs. China, though modified and revived, is still to be China. There is to be no acceptance of Western ways, dress, and sentiment, as seems to be conspicuous in Japan. Therefore he who comes to teach China with the favour of the Chinese need not think that Chinese education and thought are to be eliminated, and that the West is to be meekly considered as the superior of China. In China there are men of clearest intellectual acumen, made so by the Chinese course of training, and the foreigner, in coming to teach, must not come to disparage, destroy, and antagonise. Here conies a call, loud and practical and soul- inspiring, to the Christian people of England and America. Let all learn from tire history of Japan, and seek to give in China a religious direction to tin; new progress. The opportunity is enlarging. Who will seize it, and so help save this mighty empire 1 Let Christian men of education not fancy that the only way to carry out the missionary spirit is to be a Progressive China 1 6 1 "S missionary in the pay of the Church, or necessarily employed in teaching the Gospel story of Christianity. Christianity is as broad as truth, and means that are subordinate are not to be rejected because they are not supreme. One way to teach and help on Christ- ianity is the defensive — keep out error. One way is the life as well as the word. Imagine educated men coining to China under the fullest sanction of the Chinese Government, representing Western education, but by immoral lives not representing Christian morality. Let us guard wisely the future. Let us give that help that China needs — an education that means purifying. OHAPTEK XXIX. MISSION WOEK IN THE CITIES OF CHINA. X the southern part of China missionaries have not only been located in the cities, but have here concentrated a large portion of their work. In some parts of Xorth China the chief work has been country touring, with a particular attention to the agricultural classes. It is the experience of missionaries all over China that mission work in the city is more difficult than in the country. It is also less productive of immediate results. Missionary societies desirous of striking statistics naturally favour the work that brings the most speedy success. We, however, who are on the field, in the very midst of the work, are careful that we yield not too much to the temptation of glory, and so neglect the work that is important though difficult. Paris rules France, and London, England; and it is cities like Boston, New York, Chicago, St. Louis, and Xew Orleans that control the politics and shape the speculations and mould the sentiment of the people of the United States. In China it is still more true that cities rule the country. The heads of Government are stationed in Mission Work in the Cities of China 163 cities that are graded like the officers themselves. First comes Peking, the head of the nation ; then the provincial capitals, then the circuit cities, the prefectural cities, and finally the district cities. To lose a hold of the cities is to lose hold of the nation. But how to get a hold of the cities is the great problem that as yet has not been satisfactorily solved. The possession requires more than mere presence ; nay, it is possible for the missionary from a foreign land to be present in a city of China, and for the cause thereby to be none the better. Let us notice some of the difficulties to successful mission-work in the cities. It is hard for the missionary to remove the dishonour cast upon him and his cause. The preconception of the Chinese toward Christianity, and especially the foreigner, is one more of contempt than respect. As the cities possess more persons of power, rank, and wealth than the country, so the missionary's task to gain respect and influence is so much the harder. Every city has the official class, the gentry, the scholars, the storekeepers, and the commonalty. If the influential classes are arrayed against the foreigners, the city is practically thus arrayed. To gain an influence with the official class is hard, and with the gentry still harder. If these are unreached, the scholars are shy or troublesome, and so the action of one, if a man of influence, bespeaks the action of all. Day schools, street chapels, all fail to reach the influential classes, and, in plain acknowledgment of the difficulty, most missionaries have entirely neglected the upper classes, and have sought for the more susceptible. By reason of this difficulty, persons disposed towards 164 Peeps into China religious inquiry hide away from contact with the missionary. The real seekers after truth are thus often unknown to the preacher of Christian truth. In all cities there are many who secretly assent to the truth of Christianity, but are beyond the reach of the Church. Others, believing largely in the truth of Christianity, yet seeing the opposition of the influential, fear there may be a ground for suspicion and doubt. Perhaps, after all, the missionary has some secret plan hid away in his righteous cause, either to subdue China, to overthrow the present dynasty, or stir up insurrections. All this being the case, it happens that the persons in the cities who approach the missionary, and are willing to be associated with the foreigner, are oftentimes those of doubtful character. Their main purpose is to get aid, to find a position, or to advance self in the estimation of others. A few, with no bad and no good motive, enter the circle, and by the force of circumstances at last become converts. Outsiders, looking at the appearance of such converts, turn away in disgust, not convinced of any existing evil, neither convinced of any unusual virtue or ability. In some cities the majority of the Sunday audience will consist of servants and other employes, and the pupils of the boarding-schools. In the oldest stations persons of the second generation are found, and the Church appears to more advantage. In a few cities the native Church consists of a class of men not to be despised ; but for the most part the work in the city has not that vigour or growth seen in the work among the country people. AVhile there are found in all city stations men and women of true worth, evincing the efficacy of the Gospel, yet the difficulties we have noticed are never wholly absent. Mission Work in the Cities of China 165 He who works for a city, seeking to leave a real impression, affecting the very highest as well as the very lowest, seeking out the honest seeker and making truth to appear truth and error to be error, has a task for a life-time. He might work thus for years, and have no convert ; but the general good should always be reckoned as well as particular conversions. CHAPTER XXX. CHINESE ATTACK ON AN AMERICAN MISSIONARY. USING the most opportune time that our Mission has ever had in Chi-nan-fu, rely- ing on the clearest of promises made by the different officials, the Mission took a perpetual lease of a small house in the south-east suburb in the month of August 1887. Confiding fully in the truthfulness and assistance of the officials, an interview was at once held with them, and the case brought to their attention. The Taotai ordered the magistrate to examine into the matter, and, if no clandestine transference had been effected, to stamp the deed. On examination no illegality in any form was discovered, the neighbours gave full consent to the transfer of the property to the foreigner, and all indi- cated a successful management. However, the officials displayed the usual habit of Chinese politics, and three months' time was spent in the accomplishment of dilatoriness and dilly-dallying. The local gentry had also opposed the possession of the said property by the Mission, or by foreigners of any name whatever. Argument after argument had been presented by us to bring to a peaceful termination the complex opposition; Chinese Attack on an American Missionary 167 but, in spite of repeated conferences, peace seemed more distant than ever. We had made a legal lease of a property, and yet the officials wavered. They feared the gentry, or pretended to see reason for further delay. Merely relying on the Chinese officials would, we feared, hinder rather than advance our designs. We had for many months, by conciliation and moderation, sought the goodwill of all, but our hopes met a sad collapse in the critical hour. We granted time to make an equitable and satisfactory exchange, but the time was only used for further procrastination. By going to the officials, at their request, we hoped all opposition would be checked, but, instead, their will at the last seemed to be a sub- mission to the will of the gentry, and a refusal to allow us to occupy the house we had legally leased seemed inevitable. What, then, could we do ? Must we be conquered in spite of justice and law 1 Should the officials after all frustrate our plans, and so instigate oppo- sition in other places against the Church and the missionary ? We decided to try one more plan. In accordance with Chinese custom, three months make the period for vacating a house leased, and four months a house purchased. Also, if a person leasing or purchasing a house once stops there over night, he is regarded as being in possession of the house. Therefore, on November 28 — the last day of the three months- — we turned over to the bank account of the landlord the money still due him, informed the officials of our intention, and asked for protection and help in the matter. By agreement, I was to be the person to attempt possession. No one of us feared any trouble, or supposed the Chinese 1 68 Peeps into China would dare attack a foreigner. Furthermore, the official, having been informed, was accountable. After dark I started with my servant and bedding to the house concerned. I reached the place in quiet- ness, but found that the room occupied by the land- lord was locked, and none of his family anywhere around. The tenants of the place all came forth and exhorted me to leave ; but the idea of leaving a place belonging to us, and for which they were paying no rent, seemed a reversal of right, and consecpuently I informed them I could not leave that night. In order to calm them, I said I would sleep at the entrance to the street-gate, while they could return each one to his own room. Soon, however, a crowd began to gather. Ten or a dozen persons forced their way in, and in a very friendly tone exhorted me to return to my home. Their persuasions had no effect on my hardened heart ; and I in turn counselled them to return to their own homes, and let each man mind his own business, and avoid any disturbance. My exhortation, however, had no effect. In the midst of all this flow of reason I soon became surrounded by the zealous, upright disputants, and then of a sudden they seized hold of me and attempted to drag me out into the street. I recalled a few college rows I had once experienced, and so used my utmost strength to resist the attack. However, I must confess a dozen Chinamen are superior to one American. No sooner was I in the street, and loosened from my friends and counsellors, than 1 again succeeded in entering the premises and taking my position in the inside court. Seeing this, a larger crowd entered ; yells and hooting made music in the air; men picked Chinese Attack on an American Missionary 169 up clubs and brickbats ; and others, with renewed ardour, once more ejected me from the house ; and then, in enthusiastic excitement, other peacemakers and counsellors stepped forth, and, picking up a few stones, hurled them at me, some taking the desired effect. Seeing my situation, I retreated down the street, but after a few steps I fell to the ground. Attempting to arise, I was knocked down, and with every additional attempt there was an additional failure. I at last became exhausted, and so lay myself down, panting and half-unconscious. The crowd did nothing more but revile and make merry. I looked around for a sight of an official or attendant, but there was none. After nearly an hour's time a constable came and helped me away. The officials were informed by my colleagues, but did nothing. The next morning I arrived home in a chair, having passed a sleepless night, with back and head aching to the full. There I passed my birthday, with at least sympathetic colleagues. The plan proved a failure, but it brought the case ' to a head.' The next step was to report all par- ticulars to the United States Minister, and for him to render prompt and much-needed assistance. CHAPTER XXXI. DEATH OF DR. MACKENZIE. j EVER has the solemnity of life, as intensified by death, so impressed me as since my arrival in China. Away from home makes home events more striking. In nearly every mail there comes the announcement of some prominent person passing away. Such news must needs make the thoughtful to think the more. Life assumes the drapery of tragedy rather than the garb of comedy. They die around us and are buried in our very sight, and this is so everywhere. Going to new scenes, how strange the feeling when one after another, right on the other side of the globe, leave their toil and go into that region that none of us here have entered. Even youth, with its vivacity and sportiveness, pauses in the presence of death, and often sheds more tears of sorrow then and there than the aged, with experience and sobriety. Croat men die, and we miss them because we admired them ; good men die, and we miss them because we loved them. On the last Sunday of March 1888, on coming out of the little foreign chapel in the city of Tientsin, 17(1 Death of Dr. Mackenzie i 7 1 I was first of all kindly accosted by the ever-genial missionary, Dr. J. Kenneth Mackenzie. A week later, on the first day of April, on a quiet Easter morn, our friend had gone to his rest. He was a great man and a good man. Men admired him and loved him. His works will follow him long- years hence, and his name will be spoken with the quietness of affection. A young man, only thirty-eight years of age, with a splendid record already made, and many the hopes for the future. But he sickened and died, and kind friends carried him away to burial, mourned by the mighty mandarin and the unkempt beggar, by missionary associate and man of the world, by those who knew him, and by those who only saw his deeds, his mildness, and his goodness. Converted during the first visit of Mr. Moody to England, he at once began his life of consecration, and ever after, by prayer and trial, by meditation and study, by faith and effort, he continued to grow, until, when he died, he seemed to be ready. In the spring of 1875 he sailed for China as a medical missionary of the London Missionary Society. As a medical man he was a success, and as a missionary he was the same. He closely followed the example of Christ, and cared for the souls and the bodies of suffering men. We can hardly imagine him to have done better ; and yet in all, as he himself would say, it was of grace. The first part of his career was passed in the busy port of Hankow, — the geographical centre of China, — and the last part, from the year 1879, in the busy port of Tientsin. In both places he has left a commendable record, but in the latter place especially so ; for there and then he had grown into a full, ripe 172 Peeps into China character — the wonder of colder and more selfish hearts. The first part of Dr. Mackenzie's life in Tientsin was one of discouragement, but faith and prayer ; the last part was one of success, of thankful realisation, of faith now strengthened into assurance. By the leadings of Providence, as no man directs or supposes, shadow is changed into sunlight. . So it was with the hospital scheme of Dr. Mackenzie. On the sudden and dangerous illness of Lady Li, the wife of the celebrated official, H. E. Li Hung Chang, Dr. Mackenzie and an American lady physician, Dr. Howard, were summoned to render all possible aid. The aid was given, and Lady Li's life was saved. Ever after these two physicians have remained the friends of the mandarin and his wife, and a way for doing most lasting good has thereby been opened ; but more than one has traced it all to special prayer and to the guidance of a kind Providence. The story of the success of the hospital, built by the contributions of Viceroy Li and other Chinese officials, is now a world-wide one, but ever needing frequent repetition, that our confidence in Cod may be strengthened. Put at last he died, and the funeral came. And oh ! such a funeral. We doubt if the like has ever been seen in China, A foreigner followed to the grave by crowds of mourning Chinese — this surely was a wonderful sight. On his coffin were the tokens of honour once bestowed on him by the Emperor of China ; and by the side of the road was many a poor man standing in quiet, solemn sadness, as lie saw his friend carried slowly away to the little cemetery. Hundreds of people were there, and they all mourned, Death of Dr. Mackenzie 1 7 3 and when they spoke, it was the word of deep respect and hearty praise. He left a splendid work, but he seemed to leave it ready. In fact, about all his matters there was a sign of preparation, and, young as he was, it seemed as if his call to go home was none too soon and none too late. Dr. Mackenzie's life did good, and so did his death. .Surely the Lord was in it all. He was a man of prayer, and his religion was a devotional religion. He was a man with many trials, and his life was a tender and emotional one. He loved the Word of God, and so he guided many into the way of truth. He encountered obstacles that man's strength could not remove, and so he learned to trust, and, trusting, he learned the lesson of true blessedness. Of a quick temper, he guarded himself by the weapons of truth and the thought of his Saviour, and made the element of self-control to be tempered by mild, modest humility. He knew no Saviour but Christ, and of Him he never tired to speak. In the sick-room and in the palace, in the hospital, by the roadside, and on board the gunboat and sailing-ship, he continued to witness for Christ, and to urge men to repentance and forgive- ness. He was skilful in medicine, studious, industrious, and thorough, but amid all he made religion the chief thing. As he himself wrote in one of his late published articles, ' What we bring them is no lifeless form, but a living personal Saviour, whom it is our privilege to present to the Chinese ; and this glorious privilege of representing our Saviour King, and witnessing for Him, we dare not commit to any second party.' Faithful words of a faithful man ! Thus over the face of the Present lies the thin white i 74 Peeps into China veil of the Beyond. Life is not all tears, neither is it all smiles. ' A little loving and a good deal of sorrowing ; some bright hopes and a good deal of disappointment ; some gorgeous Thursdays, when the skies are bright and the heavens blue, when Providence, bending over us in blessing, gladdens the heart almost to madness ; many dismal Fridays, when the smoke of torment beclouds the mind, and undying sorrows gnaw upon the heart ; some high ambitions and many Waterloo defeats, until the heart becomes like the charnel-house, filled with dead affections, embalmed in holy but sorrowful memories ; and then the cord is loosened, the golden bowl is broken, the individual life — a cloud, a vapour — passeth away.' CHAPTER XXXII. A PEEP INTO CHINESE POLITICS. AVING gone to Peking in the month of December 1887 for the purpose of securing the ail of the United States Minister in the set dement of certain difficulties at the city of Chi-nan-fu, I was detained there for upwards of four months. n he case as presented was mostly one of peaceful pos.ession of certain property and the guarantee of prot< ction. The minister, considering carefully all the acts and circumstances, decided to render us all the fid that was possible to one in his position. He repo 'ted the particulars to the high Chinese ministers co nposing the Chinese Foreign Office, and made of them certain requests particularly agree- ing with those tha L . we ourselves had made. The Chinese ministers coald not render a decision on the mere representation of a foreign minister, and so referred the case to the governor of the province for a report. After waiting needlessly for upwards of four mouths, during which time the minister again and again pressed for reply, a reply at last came. In the i 76 Peeps into China main it was most unsatisfactory. The position taken by the local magistrate was adhered to by the governor, and in turn by the higher officials at Peking. Owing to objection on the part of the local gentry, it was advised that the money for the purchase of the property be taken buck, and that the foreigners search for another piece. As to the riot, it was reckoned as unimportant. The ringleaders were still neither arrested nor punished. The Chinese ministers, how- ever, granted full right to consult with the local authorities, and promised to instruct the governor to render assistance in devising measures. The United States Minister sent in a counter- statement, insisting that if any exchange of property -was made, the local authorities must themselves find the property. He also corrected the errors and insin lations concerning the riot, and emphasised the point of redress for insult and injuries. He also stated that he had requested me to return to Chi-nan-fu to consult with the officials as to a proper settlement, and therefore he would ask that instructions be issued to the governor to grant me an intervil ?w on my return. With this effort on the part of oil r minister, Colonel Denby, I left Peking, uncertain 1 as to the final outcome, and rather fearing still , further delay and opposition. But this time of waiting at the capital I used as an opportunity. After the first 1110 nth I stopped at a Chinese temple, living in two small rooms in the simplest of ways, with nothing fo - reign about me except a few borrowed books. I did 1 this for the purpose of study, and as an experiq rent in making the acquaintance of certain person,'" j of official position, A Peep into Chinese Politics 177 with whom missionaries have for the most part been unable to gain any private or public inter- course. Let me picture a little of my life, as thus lived. A breakfast of rice and eggs, a lunch at noon of bread and butter, and a dinner at five or six of meat, rice, and bread — such was my healthy diet, except when invited out to partake of a meal supposed to supply a famishing man. Sometimes arising imme- diately at daylight, I would take a hurried bite of bread, put on my official garments, and go forth in a cart with an attendant to call on some of the great, but generally finding that even my early rising was for them too late, for they had already left for public business. On Tuesday evenings I generally attended an English prayer-meeting of our Presbyterian Mis- sion, and on Wednesday evenings another one at the Methodist Mission, under whose shadow my temple and so myself rested. In general, enumerating all, my experience consisted of memorising portions of the Chinese classics ; reading- foreign books, especially relating to China ; examining the treaties and certain law cases bearing on inter- national law ; preparing with my Chinese teacher documents to be presented to certain Chinese ; study- ing the official ranks and personages of the Chinese Central Government ; making now and then an attempt to form an acquaintance with the influential ; learning something of the bearings of the Provincial Govern- ment on the Central Government, as well as the un- satisfactory relation between the Chinese Government and foreign representatives ; informing myself on questions of mission policy by consultation with M 178 Peeps into China different missionaries and ' men of the world ' ; being stimulated by the addresses and discussions, prayers and sermons, of various meetings, secular and religious ; learning from the different legations facts which were previously unknown to myself ; and, above all, ascer- taining somewhat of a growing sentiment in favour of Christianity on the part of the ruling classes, if only principles of adaptation would be more fully accepted and peace more effectively maintained. Of actual success in opening the doors of the high mandarins, I can report that I succeeded in only three cases, receiving from such return calls. But it should be remembered that, outside of the Marquis Tseng, even foreign ministers have no social or private relations with Chinese officials. By my experimenting in a quiet way, I came to the conclusion that the ways to reach the Chinese are not the same, even as the Chinese are not the same, and, furthermore, that some ways remain to be tried that the past may have too greatly ignored. It plainly seemed to me that if Peking is important as a missionary station because the capital of the empire, then something is needed to influence the influential of the capital, who are also the influential of the empire. Among the intensely conservative people of the capital, and with the prevalent aversion of the ruling classes, and especially of the Manchus, to holding any private or social relation with foreigners, high or low, official or otherwise, it certainly requires the greatest patience and tact to conciliate and effect confidence and friendship. With time, money, and proper appliances, and especially a proper spirit, I believe a A Peep into Chinese Politics 179 peculiar work could be inaugurated that would reach a particular class most indispensable for the conversion of the nation. All in all, I am thankful for my four months' visit, with its joy of romance and its lessons of practicality. CHAPTEIi XXXIII. THE TELEGRAPH IN CHINA. OME fourteen years ago China made her first great move in her game with the Western world. This was the formation of a steam- ship company, under the control of the Government and the special supervision of Li Hung Chang. At first merely purchasing a few vessels of an American company, and a little wary as it began its competition with the thrift and preoccupation of the English, it has at last, by persistency, frugality, and sharp circumspection, got a control of a large portion of the coast trade, and, more than all, has favourably impressed the nation at various commercial centres of the advantage of introducing much that is foreign, and of the greater importance of keeping such innovation under Chinese management. The second great move, at least from a secular point of view, was made in the year 1880, by the inaugura- tion of a telegraph company. In tins company none but Chinese are allowed to have shares. It shows still more plainly the policy of even the progressive men. Advancement, to be sure ; but the control must be held, as Japan has already learned, by the ISO The Telegraph in China 1 8 r nation itself. China, if she lives at all, must have her own digestion. Even Christianity will be poor food unless it is assimilated. In the main, trades, specula- tions, faiths, and ideas will, like the people, have an impress neither English, American, nor foreign, but, as for long centuries amid all changes, emphatically Chinese. Even the late distinguished mandarin, General Tso, so often regarded as the strongest of the conservatives, found but little fault with improvements, if only foreign domination be excluded. Foreign arts, foreign machinery, he would receive ; but, if possible, not the foreigner. In the summer of 1883 he was constrained to use in his business, for the first time, the telegraph that ran from Shanghai to Tientsin. Having received an answer from the north in some thirty-six hours, he was so surprised, and his inertness received such a shock, that he built at his own expense a short line from the city of Nanking, the capital of his vice- royship, to Soochow, to connect with the main line. In 1883 more strenuous efforts were made to lengthen the line, which up to that time merely con- nected Shanghai with Tientsin. Erance had come to fight, and so was stirred the slumbering mandarins to more effective self-protection and greater consolidation. Li Hung Chang, ever on the look-out for favourable opportunities, memorialised the throne, asking that the line might be so extended as to unite the empire with Peking. Beceiving imperial sanction, a code of regulations was at once drawn up, and, having com- mitted the project to one sole company, — the one already organised with a capital of £160,000, — every obstruction of any weight was successfully removed. At once work began in real earnest, certain Danes being engaged to superintend the construction of the i 82 Peeps into China now line, and to instruct the Chinese in telegraphy and the English language. The line was first extended from Shanghai to Hang-chow, the capital of Che-keang ; then to Ningpo, one of the treaty-ports ; then south to Wen-chow, another open port ; then to Foochow, a port and provincial capital ; then to the two ports of Amoy and Swatow ; and finally to Canton, the most important port of trade and provincial capital in the south. In the north, Tientsin was soon connected with Peking ; and in the last few years a branch line has also been extended to Manchuria and Corea. Another branch line extended to Chi-nan-fu, another provincial capital ; and then to Chefoo, an open port. In Central China a branch line was extended from Nanking to the port of Hankow, and lately it has gone still farther west to the province of Sze-ch'uen, to the city of Chung-king, and then south to the province of Kwei-chow. During the war excitement of 1883-84, the line was extended along the southern border from Canton west through the provinces of Kwang-se, Kwei-chow, and Yun-nan, connecting with the line from the north, and thus making a complete circuit. Last year, one more branch has been extended from Tientsin to Pao-ting- fu, another provincial capital. Later on an attempt was made to make a branch line to K'ai-feng-fu, the capital of Ho-nan, and near the Yellow River devastation ; but the people of that section brought too strong a pressure against such a foreign device. The next branch now proposed is to Nan-ch'ang-fu, the capital of Keang-se. In a few years not only all the ports, but all the capitals, will be connected with Peking, the head of all. Notwithstanding all this advance, the people remain intensely ignorant as to the meaning of these poles The Telegraph in China 183 and wires. First of all, they are like a Chinaman in Soochow, who said, ' I have been looking all day, and have seen nothing pass on the line' They imagine that the line is used to actually carry the letter rather than the message. Then, again, they suppose it belongs to foreigners, having seen foreigners engaged in the work so prominently. To answer all the questions of the common people about the telegraph is a school of no mean importance. Having the steamship and the telegraph, China needs one more innovation — that which India and Japan have both already adopted — the railroad. His excellency Li, during the days of war with lvussia, prayed, in a memorial to the throne, not only for the telegraph, but for three grand trunk lines of railway to bind the country together. In the war with France came the telegraph, and now China is waiting for another war to build the railroad. Omnia mutantur, d nos mutamur in Mis. CHAPTEE XXXIV CHRISTIANITY THE GREAT NEED OF CHINA. N the contact of foreigners with China, certain distinct views are held concerning the best method for securing the develop- ment of the nation. One class of persons advocates, first and last, mere material prosperity, as indicated by commerce, railroads, mining, naval and military equipments and training, and alterations in the management of the government. Another class pleads for education, scientific and secular. A third class, as represented by the Eoman Catholic Missions, aims always for the supremacy of the visible Church, whose head is none other than the pope. To these three classes there is need of a fourth, which shall be convinced that the need and opportunity in China to- day is for Christianity, — and this we believe to be pure Protestantism. Material advancement — civilisation — may come, as it must come, by the mere force of circumstances ; and yet the Chinese may lie none the more pure, honest or kind, true or magnanimous. Material prosperity is subordinate, and being so, let it never usurp its rightful superior. 184 Christianity the Great need of China 185 Secular education, likewise, will find its way .into China, proclaiming Science as its watchword ; but with all this, China will still at heart be unresenerated. Education that is of the ' earth earthy ' must be subordinate, and not dictate to its stronger and holier master. The Church ! — ay, there is inspiration in the word, and for it many have nobly died. The Soman Catholic missionaries may come with many worldly arts, but never is the Church in the background. But here, too, however grand the object, the chief thing is not yet found. A visible Church may well be our desire, but superior to it, as to all, is the spiritual character of Christianity. The Church may be sullied and imperfect, but not so the Christianity embodied in Christ. The Chinese, to be regenerated, must be touched by the very Highest at once — must be drawn to the Divine, must seek the Unseen, must find virtue realised in a living Person, must be taught essential Christianity. All else that is good is good, to be sure ; but let every- thing be in its proper place — the subordinate in the subordinate place, and the teachings and life of the All-wise and Alhholy superior to all, and ruling all. Christianity in its essence is remedial, and so fitted for nations as well as individuals. What China needs is a railed;/ — how to get rid of corruption and vice, injustice and impurity. She has tried high ethics, pure political teachings, material power ; has respected education and forms of religion, and yet she is not safe, prosperous, or strong, She needs the power of God, and this, we are told, and this we have again and again seen in history, is none other than the Gospel of Christ. i 86 Peeps into China Let China seek first the Kingdom of God and His righteousness, and all these things will be added unto her. They will all come, but come, if to her good, as subordinate. ' Honour to whom honour ' — and who more worthy than the God of whom Nature, conscience, revelation, and Christ all testify ? 'But,' it is asked, ' do the Chinese relish Christianity?' And in answer to this we mean to make a few ex- planations. It is imagined by some that religious topics are not appreciated by the Chinese, but that they only favour and praise our Western science, machinery, wealth, and power. But may not this be due to mere misunderstanding on their part, rather than intelligent examination ? Of course, if we come with a system of truth such as Christianity, we must take pains to prove its worth, charm, and superiority, and not rely on mere dogmatism or assertion. In the first place, religious questions can be most easily introduced in conversation with nearly every class of Chinese. With the scholarly class it is only necessary that the missionary know something of the Confucian books. Quoting from Confucius or his disciples, he is at once in favour, and at once he is in the midst of religious and moral topics, capable of indefinite expansion. It is a mistake to think that the Confucianists in China are the most difficult to engage in religious conversation, though they may be most difficult of conversion to Christ. But with God all things are possible. Coming to the more simple classes, we find that their thoughts are ever recurring to religious matters, and only need the direction of the true Christian guide. There is inquiry in China, as is plainly seen by the vast number of secret sects and religious tracts Christianity the Great need of China 187 and books. Each missionary only needs to study the art of persuasion, and so fit the truths he teaches to the people who hear. The ways are different, as individuality is different ; but if the teacher is ' apt to teach,' the truth will soon take effect. But this fact we reiterate, that religious and so Christian truths can be made as popular as anything else that the foreigner brings to China, unless it should be medicine and the healing art — and opium. It is only necessary to heed the rule, ' Step by step.' We cannot jump at once into a new theme, any more than Paul did when he preached at Athens. In the chain of argument we must always begin at the right link. We may take broad views of Christianity and of all methods and agencies, but let us not forget that it is always Christianity at the top, and Christ the essence of Christianity. To tell of the glory and power of such a religion may need careful training and thoughtful and patient study, but the result will repay every toil, every prayer, and the deepest pondering that our hearts can give. CHAPTER XXXV. MISSION WOKK IN CATHAY. E - HE progress of missions in China is great, increasing more and more as the years pass by. Forty-five years ago there were only six native Christians. Increase by the same proportion the next forty-five years as during the last, and there will be not 33,000, as we now find, but over 180,000,000 actual communicants. Looking over the whole field, beyond the limits of one's own denomination, and we find stations scattered along the coast, up the Great River, and far and wide in all the interior. Not a province but has some converts to the Protestant faith. One society may be weak this year, but another has never been stronger. Hope ever comes from the whole, not from the part. Thirty-eight societies are represented in China, with upwards of 400 male missionaries, over 200 unmarried female missionaries, and nearly 200 native ordained ministers. Great as is the progress, great — awfully, solemnly great — is the need. We can say that the Chinese Empire has opened her doors ; but what is meant by the Chinese Empire ? A writer says that China has 188 Mission Work in Cathay 189 300,000,000 population, and then adds that China has eighteen provinces. His first use of the word ' China ' is synonymous with the Chinese Empire, aud his second use with China Proper. These vast regions outside the eighteen provinces are overlooked in the general calculation. Manchuria, with a population of upwards of 12,000,000, has one treaty-port and three mission stations, those belonging to the Scotch United Presbyterian and the Irish Presbyterian Missions. Mongolia, extending over a vast extent of desert, and with an estimated population of 2, 000, 000, has had only one missionary, the indefatigable worker of the London Mission, the late Eev. James Gilmour. Tibet, with upwards of 7,000,000, and Hi with 2,000,000 popula- tion, are both tightly locked in from all foreign or missionary impressions, except as meeting Eussia to the north and Great Britain to the south. The island of Formosa has been advanced to the position of a province, has three treaty-ports, and a very successful mission work carried on by the Canadian Presby- terians and the English Presbyterians. The island of Hainan, still a department of the province of Kwang-tung, has now one treaty-port, and one mission station of the American Presbyterians. Such ends the borderland of the Chinese Empire. As to the condition of China Proper, what do we find ? Of the eighteen provinces only two have no permanent mission stations, Hu-nan and Kwang-se. The former has a population of some 20,000,000, and is visited by members of the China Inland and London Missions, but is as yet too hostile for permanent settle- ment. Kwang-se, with a population of say 7,000,000, had for a short time a station belonging to the 190 Peeps into China American Presbyterian Mission, but owing to a serious riot, great difficulty has been found to again secure protection and residence. The provinces of Kwei-chow, Yun-nan, Keang-se, Gan-hwuy, Kan-su, Shen-si, and Ho-nan are occupied by missionaries of the China Inland Mission alone, though the Canadian Presby- terians are intending soon to open a station in the hostile province of Ho-nan. Missionaries may now travel in all parts of China and preach the Word, though residence in particular places, and especially in the provincial capitals, is generally subject to great opposition. It is, however, a matter of congratulation that of all the capitals only five are at this time unoccupied by missionaries, those of Kwang-se, Keang- se, Hu-nan, Ho-nan, and Shen-si. To a portion of this success we are all indebted to the China Inland Mission alone. In such an enumeration as we here attempt to give, we should not overlook the labours of the Roman Catholic missionaries, who have prepared the way for Protestants in most of the interior. In fact, we fear if the Roman Catholic priests had not first gone into the interior, on the basis of the French Treaty of 1860, which especially referred to the French priests, all Protestant missionaries would have been able to do but little except by way of travel. Xow, following the precedent of the Roman Catholics, Protestant missionaries may reside in the interior, and may pur- chase property for Church purposes. The very hero- ism and persistency of the Roman Catholic Missions in China should check much of our inherent sectarian prejudices, and induce us to applaud the good wherever found. Great favours have already been bestowed on the Mission Work in Cathay 191 cause of Christianity by the toleration and protection of the Imperial Government. That much of this is directly due to the mediation of foreign powers is not to be denied ; and yet the Central Government, while resenting much of the past treatment of the stronger nations, is in no way inclined to reverse its attitude towards either foreign missionaries or Christianity. Coming down to the lower officials, who have control of the many districts and departments of the eighteen provinces, there is oftentimes a glaring disregard of imperial orders in regard to Christianity ; and this spirit is largely intensified by the antagonism of local residents. As Christian converts increase in number, we may expect frequent persecution in certain sections, and a growing jealousy from the unbelieving. The need in China is truly great, but we must count the cost before accepting the call. The way for preaching the simple Gospel, for the practice of medicine, for the cure of opium-smoking, is open in many places, and it is for the Church to seize the opportunity when it comes, and in the way it comes. \Ve may not realise all that our preconceptions would fain mark out, but the best plan is to commit all our ways unto the Lord, and He will direct our paths. Possessing our souls in patience, and running with patience, we cannot, as servants of the Kingdom, fear defeat. THE END. MORRISON AND QIBB, PRINTERS, ED1NEUEOH. 3Uustratc& Boohs BY THE Rev. T. S. MILLINGTON, M.A. A GREAT MISTAKE. A Tale of Adventure. 3s. 6d. THE LATCH-KEY. as. NO CHOICE. A Story of the Unforeseen. 5s. STRAIGHT TO THE MARK. 5 s. THROUGH EIRE AVI) THROUGH WATER. 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