MAIIUAL 
 
 :or 
 
 ARMY HORSESHOEHS 
 
 U. 3. ^ar Department 
 1920 
 
 
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683 683 
 
 MANUAL 
 
 FOR 
 
 ARMY HORSESHOERS 
 
 PREPARED AT THE CAVALRY SCHOOL 
 
 April, 1920 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
 
 1920 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
War Depart>iert 
 
 No. 683 
 
 Office of The Adjutant (Jviurul 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in 
 
 cooperation witli Cornell University Libraries, 2007. 
 
 You may use and print this copy in limited quantity 
 
 for your personal purposes, but may not distribute or 
 
 provide access to it (or modified or partial versions of it) 
 
 for revenue-generating or other commercial purposes. 
 
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INTEBIOE or THE ShOEINIG SHOP. 
 Cavalry School. 
 
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WAR DEPAETMENT, 
 
 Washington, April 10, 
 The Manual for Army Horseshoers, 1920, prepared at The Cavalry 
 School, Fort Riley, Kans.,.for the use of students of the Department 
 of Horsemanship, as well as for the Army at large and the National 
 Guard, is published for the information and guidance of all con- 
 cerned. 
 
 [461.1, A. G. 0.] 
 
 Bt order of the Secretary of War: 
 
 PEYTON C. MARCH, 
 
 General, Chief of Staff. 
 Official : 
 
 P. C. HARRIS, 
 
 The Adjutant General. 
 
 3 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Interior of shoeing sliop, Cavalry School Frontispiece. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Plate I. Clinching block 8 
 
 II. Tools 9 
 
 III. Anvil and tool boxesi 10 
 
 IV. The champion forge H 
 
 V. The blower 12 
 
 VI. Section of forge 13 
 
 VII. Making the bar 18 
 
 VIII. Cutting oft and finishing the heels 26 
 
 IX. Parts of the hoof and pastern (facing) 31 
 
 X. Bones of the foot and pastern region 32 
 
 XI. Coffin bone of horse, side view 34 
 
 XII. Foot of the horse, one-half of hoof removed (facing) 35 
 
 XIII. Side view of foot of horse after removal of hoof and part 
 
 of skin 35 
 
 XIV. Ground surface of foot of horse after removal of half of 
 
 hoof to show sensitive structures So 
 
 XV. Foot of horse, showing relations of bones and joints ; the car- 
 tilage is largely exposed 36 
 
 XVI. Right forefoot of horse, ground surface 39 
 
 XVII. Raising the foot 12 
 
 XVIII. Raising the foot 43 
 
 XIX. The foot axis and the pastern axis 45 
 
 XX. Level of the foot 49 
 
 XXI. Preparation of the foot 50 
 
 XXII. Normal shoe .53 
 
 XXIII. Normal shoes 55 
 
 XXIV. Holding the pincliers for clinching 65 
 
 XXV. Foot improperly shod and neglected 67 
 
 XXVI. Quarter crack 76 
 
 XXVII. Pathological shoes 83 
 
 XXVIII. Special shoes for gaits 97 
 
 XXIX. Special shoes for gaits 98 
 
 XXX. The war bridle 104 
 
 XXXI. Raising front foot of refractory horse; also hind foot, first 
 
 method IO7 
 
 XXXII. Horse in stocks 109 
 
 XXXIII. Harness for throwing horse IO9 
 
 XXXIV. Throwing the hors9 for shoeing HO 
 
 In this revision the following authorities have been consulted: Sisson's 
 Anatomy ; Smith's Physiolo.'?>' ; Dollar on Horseshoeing ; The Exterior of the 
 Horse, by Goubeaji and Barrier ; Strangeway's Anatomy ; Adam's Horseshoeing ; 
 Rudolph .lordan, jr.. The American Trotter and Pacer. 
 
 5 
 
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CONTENTS. 
 
 Paragraphs. 
 
 Chapter I. Horseslioers' Iduls and tlieir uses — The forge 1— i 
 
 ir. The fire — Heats 5-7 
 
 III. ■\Vorking and shaping iron — Tlie plate shcje 8-29 
 
 IV. Anatomy and physiologj' of the horse's foot 30-38 
 
 V. Normal shoeing 39-80 
 
 VI. Diseases — The making nf patjiologieal shoes 81-112 
 
 VII. Gaits and gaiting 113-134 
 
 VTTI. Shoeing refractory hiirses loS-liS 
 
 IX. I'raetical suggestions 144—147 
 
 6 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 Chaptee I. 
 
 HORSESHOERS' TOOLS AND THEIR USES— THE FORGE. 
 
 (I'l;lte II. I 
 
 1. The clinch cutter (fig. 1) consists of two parts — the blade and 
 the point. The blade is used to cut or to raise the clinches, being 
 jjlaced under the edge of the clinch and struck with the driving 
 hammer. The point is used to punch nails and stubs out of the hoof. 
 It is often placed in the crease of the shoe, under the head of the nail 
 to be withdrawn, and struck smartly with the hammer. The blow 
 raises the nail sufficiently to enable the pinchers to grasp tlie nail 
 head. 
 
 The 'pinchers (fig. -1) are used to remove shoes and to draw nail 
 stubs and improperly driven nails. 
 
 The driving hamvier (shoeing hammer) (fig. 9) should be used 
 only to drive horseshoe nails, to wring off nails after they have been 
 properly driven, and to make clinches. 
 
 The nippers (fig. 4) are used to remove the surplus growth of wall. 
 
 The shoeing hnife (fig. 3) is used to pare away the dead horn near 
 the white line ; to make a seat for clips ; to remove loose particles 
 from the sole ; to relieve pressure on corns and cracks ; and to open 
 the sole and Avail for the escape of pus or for the removal of foreign 
 bodies. 
 
 The horseshoers' nmp (fig. 5) is used to remove tlie necessarjr 
 amount of horn in the preparation of the foot ; to even clinches ; to 
 make a slight groove under each clinch; to run lightly over the 
 clinches in order to smooth them ; and for rasping metal. The rasp 
 that is used on the hoof should never be used at the bench ; use an old 
 rasp for working on metal. 
 
 The rounding hammer (fig. 10) and ftthig hammer (fig. 11) are 
 used in fitting and in turning shoes. The rounding and fitting ham- 
 
 7 
 
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8 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 mers have one flat end called the face, and one pointed or convex end 
 called the peen. 
 
 The hoof tester (fig. 7) is used to locate injuries or soreness of the 
 sole. Place one point on the sole and the other on the wall; press 
 by closing; the handles; shift the points and continue until the 
 horse flinches. The pinchers ma_y be used for the same purpose, but 
 are not as satisfactory. 
 
 The clincliUKj ton(js (fig. G) are used to turn the clinches downvpard 
 on feet with very thin or tender walls. 
 
 The clinching hloch (fig. 15) is used in turning down the clinches, in 
 drawing up the nails, and in clincliing. An excellent clinching block 
 for use in shoeing shops can be made as follows : Take a bar of steel 1 
 liy 1|, and 4-J inches long. One end of the bar is made smooth and 
 flat. The other end, including about one-third of the length of the 
 
 Plate I. — Clinching Block. 
 
 bar, is drawn to a tapering point, three-eighths of an inch in diam- 
 eter at the point. The point for a distance of about 1 inch is slightly 
 curved. Length of the finished block about .5i inches. This block 
 is too hea\'y for field service. 
 
 Many experienced shoers prefer to use the pinchers instead of the 
 clinching block for clinching. 
 
 The fonr/s (fig. ,s) arc used in handling hot metals. 
 
 The pritchel (fig. 16) is made Ijy hand from round or octagonal 
 steel, and is used for opening the nail holes in horseshoes. The 
 point is drawn the same size and shape as the shank of a nail half- 
 way between head and point, so that the hole punched in the shoe 
 will fit the nail snugly and not allow any motion. Examine the 
 nail carefully and learn tlie exact size for the pritchel. To draw 
 out the point of tJie pritcliel. heat it to a cherry red and, placing 
 the i^ointcd end flat on the face of the anvil near the far edge, strike 
 with the hammer held at an angle to properly change the' upper 
 
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MANXJAL, rOR AKMY HOESESHOERS. 
 
 9 
 
 face, turning it as necessary so that the finished point will be of the 
 shape desired. Never heat the pritchel beyond a cherry red; cool 
 it gradually by placing it in the coal at the edge of the forge and 
 never in the water. The face of the horseshoers' anvil should have 
 a round edge near the base of the horn on the far side. This edge is 
 used for sharpening tools. 
 
 Clatk II. — Tools. 
 Hardief!^ the straight (fig. 12) and the half-round (fig. 13), are 
 used to cut hot metals. Their principal use for horseshoers is in 
 cutting off the heels of shoes, and for this purpose a sharp cutting 
 edge is required. When the hardy becomes dull the edge is drawn 
 out on the face of the an^-il in the same manner as the pritchel. A 
 sharp edge is then put on by hot rasping, using the smooth side of 
 the rasp. After sharpening, the cuttinfj edge should be tempered 
 
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10 
 
 MATv^UAT. FOR ARMY HORSESHdKRS. 
 
 as follows: Heat the blade of tlie hardy slowly to a clierry red; hold 
 the cutting edge under water so that al)out one-half incli of the 
 blade is immersed, and, when there is no longer any sizzling, plunge 
 the whole hardy under water and remo\'e it at once ; rub the blade 
 on the floor to remove loose flakes of metal and to give it a slight 
 polish; now carefully observe the change in color as tlie remaining 
 heat in the body extends back to the edge; tlie color will be first 
 straw, then copper, and finally blue ; as soon as the blue color has 
 
 Plate III. — Anvil axd Tool Boxes. 
 reached the cutting edge, place the whole liardy under water and 
 leave it there until thoroughly cooled. 
 
 The creaser (fig. 14) is used to crease shoes and to repair damaged 
 creases. 
 
 The cowntersinh (fig. IT) is used in hand-made slioes to punch 
 holes of sufficient size to recei^■e the lieads of the nails; these holes 
 are completed by the use of the pritchel (fig. 16). 
 
 Horseshoe nails retain the shoe on the foot. These nails (fur- 
 nished in several sizes) are machine-made and pointed; they are 
 slightly concave on one side and flat on the other: there is a "short 
 
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MANUAL von AKMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 11 
 
 bevel at the point on the concave side. In driving the nail into the 
 I'oof the fat xhle is held faeed oxituHird. 
 
 2. The horseshoer's anvil. — Tlie working parts of the anvil (PL III, 
 fig. 1) are the hom^ the face, and the heel. 
 
 The face, or the npper plane surface, is of steel, and is welded to 
 the iron body. The anvil is firmly fastened to a wooden block, which 
 is sunk into the ground to a depth that will bring the surface of the 
 face at a convenient working height above the ground — from 30 to 
 36 inches. 
 
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 Plate IV. — The Champion Foegb. Foe Gaekison Use. 
 
 The horn is used to open and to shajDe shoes; the face to level the 
 web and for welding; and the heel to straighten heels of shoes and 
 to turn calks. Clips are ordinarily drawn on the edge of the face, 
 but in the anvil shown there is an attachment near the base of the 
 horn which is used for this purpose. The square hole in the face 
 (hardy hole) is a socket for hardies; the round hole (pritchel hole) 
 permits the passage of the ,pritchel through the nail hole of the shoe. 
 
 The flat surface at the base of the horn is relatively soft iron and 
 is used to lay hot metals on when cutting them with a chisel. 
 
 The anvil should weigh from 125 to 150 pounds. 
 
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12 
 
 MANUAL FOE AEMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 Figure 2 shows the tool box issued by the Quartermaster Corps. 
 Its use is readily understood, and the only instruction required is 
 that all tools should be placed in the box, handles out. An objection 
 to this box is that it is easily tipped over. On this account many 
 shoers prefer the pattern shown in figure 3, although the tools are 
 not as near to the hand. 
 
 3. Plate I\' shows a portable forge. In this forge air is forced 
 through the fire by a fan (F). Plate V; the latter is made to revolve 
 by the driving geiir as shown. The twyer ball (T) (PI. VI) corre- 
 
 Plate V. — ^The Blowek. Fok Garrison' Force. 
 
 sponds to the grate of a stove. Firmly attached to it and extending 
 toward the worker is an iron rod l)y which the ball may be rocked. 
 The end of this rod is shown by the small circle in the center of the 
 twyer ball. A crater (C) should l)e made around the twyer ball in 
 order to confine the fire. Claj^ may be used for this purpose, but 
 cement is better. 
 
 4. The field outfit issued by the Ordnance Department is designed 
 especially for portability, and is packed in two chests. Chest No. 1 
 (22 by 18 by 13 inches) contains a small knock-down forge with fan 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 13 
 
 and drivewheel and a complete set of forge and shoeing tools. 
 Weight of chest, packed, 122 pounds. 
 
 PLATE VI. SECTION OF FORGE 
 
 C Crater P Pipe leadinc^ 
 
 T Twyer ball 
 5 Sliae 
 
 D 
 
 rrorn Fan 
 Draft 
 
 Plate VI. — Sectio.n ob' Force. 
 
 Chest No. 2 (21 by 17 by 10 inches) contains a small anvil and 
 block, water bucket, leather shoeing box, and apron. Weight of 
 chest, packed, 68 pounds. 
 
 The field anvil weighs 17 pounds. 
 
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Chapter II. 
 
 THE FIRE— HEATS. 
 
 5. The fire.— Coal, charcoal, coke, or even wood, may be used as fuel 
 to create the necessary heat in the forge. 
 
 Before building the fire the crater of the forge must be thoroughly 
 cleaned, removing all dirt, ashes, and unconsumed fuel. The twyer 
 ball should be rocked vigorously, and the slide (S) opened. A few 
 blasts will aid in removing the accumulated dust. The ball is often 
 so heated as to fuse, and melted metal and clinkers may close the 
 openings around tlie ball, preventing the passage of the blast. The 
 obstructions must be removed by the use of the poker. 
 
 Coal is banked around the twyer ball in the form of a crater, in the 
 center of which dry particles of any inflammable material are placed 
 and ignited. When these jjarticles are burning, coke or wet coal 
 (if no coke is available) is gradually placed on the fire and the fan 
 is revolved slowdy, care being taken not to cover so closely that the 
 flames are smothered. 
 
 When the fire is burning brightly, it should be built up around 
 the edges with wet coal, which will in time become coke. (See 
 Heats.) This coke is next burned and is replaced by wet coal, thus 
 keef)ing up the sui)ply of coke. Green coal is of little use in heating 
 iron or steel for the reason that it does not give a high degree of heat, 
 that it sticks to the metal, and that it emits a smoke which interferes 
 with the work. 
 
 A clear fire without smoke is essential for good work, and the 
 higher degrees of heat can onlj' be obtained from such a fire. 
 
 The depth of the fire should be about 9 inches; the metal is then 
 supported at the place oi greatest heat, about 6 inches above the 
 twyer ball. 
 
 If the metal is too near the twyer ball the heat is afl'ected by the cold 
 blast. 
 
 To bank a fire, cover thoroughly with the fuel and open the slide 
 beloiv ; this will keep the fii'e alive foi- several hours. Whenever the 
 fire is left for more than a few minutes the slide should be opened. 
 14 
 
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MANUAL, FOE ARMY HORSESHOERS. 15 
 
 6. Clinkers. — Heated steel or iron gives off particles or scales which 
 remain in the fire. These melting particles bind together particles of 
 burned coal, gradually becoming larger and finally forming what is 
 called a clinker. Clinkers give off but little heat and obstruct and 
 spoil the fire; they must therefore be removed as fast as they form. 
 Their presence will be shown bj^ a tendency of the fire to spread and 
 an unusual throwing out of sparks. If indications of clinkers appear, 
 open up the fire with a poker, and as soon as the air touches the clinker 
 it will turn black and become a solid mass which can be lifted out 
 entire. Trying to drag out the clinker without opening up the fire 
 only results in breaking up the clinker and making the fire worse than 
 it was before. 
 
 7. Heats. — There are four degrees of heat that are to be considered 
 by the horseshoer, and they are generally designated as the black, the 
 cherry red, the white, and the welding or sparJiiriff heat. 
 
 The Mack heat is when the shoe is hot but shows no color, and is 
 used in making minor changes in shaping, leveling, and in the final 
 opening of the nail holes. 
 
 The cherry red heat is when the steel or iron shows a bright cherry- 
 colored glow. It is used in the general shaping of the shoe, in point- 
 ing the pritchel, in opening nail holes, and in sharpening tools. 
 
 The next degree of heat is called the ipJiite heat, because the steel 
 or iron then shows almost that color. This heat is used when it is 
 necessary that the metal should be very pliable and easily worked, 
 as in drawing toe clips, cutting off the heels, in drawing the heels 
 of the shoe, in hot rasping, and in turning heel calks. 
 
 The welding heat is sometimes called sparking heat for the reason 
 that the metal then gives off small particles which explode or spark 
 above the fire. As soon as the sparks appear watch the metal closely, 
 and when the part to be welded has a bubbling (fluxing) appearance it 
 must be withdrawn from the fire and worked immediately. The 
 success of a weld depends entirely upon the proper heat of the parts 
 at the exact moment the weld is attempted. 
 
 A newly made coal fire can be used for ordinary heating, but for 
 a welding heat coke is required. Coke is ordinarjr coal from which 
 the gases have been driven off by gradual heating. It will be found 
 ready at hand around the edge of the fire. As coke does not smoke, 
 there is no trouble in observing when the metal has reached the exact 
 welding heat. 
 
 168670°— 20 2 
 
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Chapter III. 
 
 WORKING AND SHAPING IRON. 
 
 8. The plate shoe. — As a preliminary to instrnction in shaping and 
 preparing a shoe for the foot, it is best for beginners to become 
 familiar with the use of the tools, the use and control of the heats, 
 and in working and shaping iron. 
 
 This is accomplished by practice and in making a bar out of old 
 shoes, and then making a plate shoe from this bar or from a bar of 
 steel, using an old shoe as a model. 
 
 The use of old shoes for this purpose is an economical measui'e 
 and serves the purpose satisfactorily. 
 
 9. The various parts of a shoe are commonly spoken of as follows: 
 The toe is that portion l)etween the first nail bole on one side and 
 the first nail liole on the other side. The quarters are the portions 
 in whicli the nail holes are punched. The heels are the remaining 
 parts of the shoe. A side is one-half of a ^hoe, and inchides one 
 heel, one quarter, and onedialf of the toe. 
 
 The irrl) is the bar or material of which the shoe is made. The 
 surfaces of the shoe or web are the lower, or //n/vud siirfocr, and the 
 upper, or foot fnirfacc. 
 
 The foot surface of the shoe is divided into tlie hedriiKj siirfiicc 
 and the roncani' niirf(trc. 
 
 The hearing surface is that part of the foot surface which is 
 actually in contact with the foot. 
 
 The conca^ve surface is that \mvt of the foot surface which is con- 
 caved so as to prevent contact with the foot. 
 
 10. The following are the successive steps to be folloM-ed in making 
 a plate shoe : 
 
 (1) To make the bar. 
 
 (2) To bend the bar at the center where the toe will be. 
 
 (3) To shape the sides of the shoe. 
 
 (4) To center the toe. 
 16 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 17 
 
 (5) To draw out the heels. 
 
 (6) To punch out the nail holes. 
 
 (7) To cut off the heels. 
 
 (8) To finish the heels (hot rasping). 
 
 (9) To make any necessary corrections to secure a correct fit. 
 
 (10) To level the shoe. 
 
 (11) To finish the shoe. 
 
 11. To make the bar. — Talte an old shoe and place it in the fire so 
 that the toe will rest about 6 inches above the twyer ball, where it 
 will obtain the maximum heat, and heat it to a Avhite heat. Remove 
 from the fire and lay. the center of the toe flat across the cutting 
 edge of the hardy. Strike the shoe directly over the hardy, cutting 
 it in two. 
 
 Next, take another old shoe and heat it at the toe to a cheri-y red 
 heat. Place it on the anvil, ground surface up, across the shoulder 
 of the anvil, one-half resting on the face of the anvil and the other 
 on the horn. Strike directly over the center of the toe, bending the 
 two sides of the gTOund surface toward one another so as to form 
 nearly a right angle. Remove the shoe from that position and lay 
 one-half, foot surface down, on the face of the anvil, and strike on 
 the elevated half, closing it down to within about half an inch of 
 the other half. Now, take one of the halves of the cut shoe and in- 
 sert it between and parallel to the sides of the bent shoe, with the 
 heel of the half shoe thrust in against the toe of the bent shoe. 
 Close the sides of the bent shoe firmly against the inserted half by 
 strildng blows on the side of the bent shoe near the toe. This must 
 now be welded to form a solid bar. 
 
 The welding is accomplished as follows : Place the metal in the 
 fire and subject to a moderate blast. It should be so placed that the 
 different pieces to be welded will receive approximately the same 
 amount of heat in order to have them ready at the same instant. 
 Rock the metal in the fire frequently to insure heating it thoroughly 
 and uniformly. When the metal begins to throw off sjoarks (the 
 sparking heat), increase the blast so as to bring the surfaces of the 
 metal to a fluxing condition rapidly. When the surfaces of the 
 metal take on an oily, greasj^ appearance and begin to bubble and 
 run (the welding heat), showing that the whole surface is molten, 
 remove the metal quickly from the fire, place on the face of the anvil, 
 and with a few quick light blows start the weld. Follow this with 
 heavier blows to complete the weld. 
 
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18 
 
 MANUAL FOE ARMY HOKSESHOERS. 
 
 Heavy blows on the metal when starting the wc-M will ''"■^'■.* ^ 
 flux from the adjoinincr surfaces so that there will not he sufticien 
 to form the union. ... 
 
 In welding the bar, first heat and weM closed end, and then wit i 
 successive heats weld the bar its entire length. Now, with as many 
 white heats as may be necessary, draw out and shape tlie bar until 
 it is about 12 or 13 inches long and half as thick as it is wide, 
 the old shoes used for this are of the average size (No. 3) and have 
 had an average amount of wear, the bar produced Avill be about § by -^ 
 by 12 inches, which will serve very well for use in making the plate 
 shoe. 
 
 Plate VII. — Making the Bar. 
 
 The i^late shoe can be turned from the bar made as described above 
 or from a bar of ^ by ^ inch steel, which is much more easily worked 
 than the heavier service shoe. 
 
 Take a bar of metal about 12 or 13 inches in length.^ 
 12. To bend the bar, where the center of the toe will be. — Place the 
 bar in the fire so that the center is directly over the draft. When 
 cherry red, remove from the file, holding the nearest end with the 
 
 1 The lenifth of bar required to make a shoe for <i foot wUl be found by measuring 
 in a straigbt line on the sole of the foot from the edge of the wall at the center of the 
 toe to the extremity of either bulb of the frog. A little more than twice this distance 
 will be the length nf the bar required to make the shoe. 
 
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MANUAL POR AEMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 19 
 
 tongs and lean the other end on tlie edge of the anvil farthest froii 
 you. The bar is held on edge and at an angle of about 45° with the 
 face of the anvil. The tongs grasp the bar about 2 inches from the 
 end and an equal amount projects over the edge of the anvil, so that 
 the point struck will be midway between the points of support. 
 
 Strike lightly with the hammer at the center of the upper edge of 
 the bar, and gradually bend the bar until it is right-angled, or 
 L-shaped. 
 
 If, after bending, the L is not flat, but twisted, it must be leveled 
 on the face of the anvil. 
 
 The shoe should be kept approximately level throughout the 
 various steps in making and fitting. 
 
 This is done by laying the shoe flat on the face of the anvil with 
 the bulging or convex side up and striking lightly on the bulging 
 part. 
 
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20 
 
 MANUAL FOR AEMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 Remember to use only liglit blows on red metal. Heavy l>lows 
 leave irrecnlarities that are difficnlt or imi)()ssil)le to reinoAe. 
 
 13. To shape one side. — Place one-half of the L in the fire, and when 
 heated seize the cold half with the tongs and hold the heated side 
 diagonally over the horn of the anvil, the left hand near the base 
 and held low, the heated end lorojecting about an inch over the horn. 
 
 Begin striking at the end of the heated portion and, keeping the 
 right hand steadily in position, shape the steel by gradually moving 
 it beneath the hammer. Move the steel over the horn by raising the 
 left hand and carrying it toward the point of the horn; that is, as 
 the toe is approached, shift the work toward the point of the horn. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 21 
 
 As the shoe is moved toward the point of tlie horn the hammer forms 
 the curve on the side of the horn. 
 
 The horn of the anvil is so constructed that the diagonal curve 
 across the center conforms to the shape of the heels and quarters of 
 a shoe for the average-sized foot and the curve near the point is 
 shaped like the toe. For a very large shoe begin near the base of the 
 horn. 
 
 To shape the opposite side, proceed in the same manner. 
 
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22 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOERS. 
 
 14. To center the toe.— After both sides have been turned sec if 
 they are of equal length ; that is, see if the toe is in the renter. If not, 
 then heat the toe and, grasping the longer side with the tongs, hold 
 
 the shoe over the point of the horn so that it is corrects centered and 
 strike just beyond the horn. 
 
 15. To draw out the heels. — Heat the heels to a white heat. Hold the 
 shoe on the horn in the same position as for shaping and upon a 
 diagonal that will insure close contact. The blows, however, are 
 
 struck on the part resting on the horn, and the heel is brought toward 
 the hammer by lowering the left hand. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 23 
 
 In drawing out the heels the ground surface of the shoe should be 
 made slightly narrower than the foot surface. 
 
 Notice that to draw out one heel the ground surface is on the left 
 side when the heel rests on the horn. 
 
 To draw out the other heel the ground surface is on the right side, 
 and the shoe is changed to the opposite diagonal of the horn. 
 
 In both cases strike on the edge of the ground surface, and as a 
 result this surface will be the narrower. 
 
 For a left-handed man the anvil is reversed and the operation is 
 identical, substituting right for left and left for right. 
 
 This drawing out narrows and at the same time thickens the heel. 
 To restore it to its original thickness, work on the face of the anvil. 
 Hold the ground surface down so as to preserve the bevel. 
 
 The drawing of the heels is governed by the width of the web 
 of the shoe and the width of the buttress of the foot for which the 
 shoe is made. 
 
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24 
 
 MANUAL FOR AR.MY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 16. To punch out the nail holes.— Apply the shoe to the model ; if the 
 heels are of proper leng-th and tlie shoe is an approximate fit, the 
 nail holes are i:)unched out. 
 
 Examine the pritchel, and if it is not of the proper sliape, point it 
 before using. (See Tools, par. 1.) 
 
 The nail holes are started on the grounci surface with the counter- 
 sink because the point of this tool conforms to tlie shape of the head 
 of the nail. The point should not be driven more than three-fourths 
 through or the shoe will be bulged and ruined. The tool is held 
 leaning outward to conform to the direction which the nail should 
 follow and the hole is started a little outside of the center of the web. 
 
 Heat one side and first start the hole nearest the toe. Its proper 
 position can be learned by examining a service shoe of the same size. 
 The hole at the bend of the quarter is next started, and finally the 
 hole midway between the two. The plate shoe, if made from steel on 
 account of its light weight, requires but six nails, three on each side. 
 For shoes larger than No. 3, if made from the bar of iron, eight 
 will be required. 
 
 Heat the other side and proceed as before. 
 
 The nail holes must not Ije placed too far back. A shoe nailed back 
 of the turn of the quarter will prevent tlie expansion of the foot and 
 eventually cause contracted heels. 
 
 If, in punching the nail holes, bulges appear near them on the 
 edges of the bar or shoe, they must be removed by working over the 
 horn. (Same position and means as for drawing heels.) 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOE AEMY HOESESPIOERS. 
 
 25 
 
 Punch out the nail holes on the ground surface, holding the 
 pritchel outward, driving the point just bai'ely through the web; 
 
 then punch out the holes on the foot surface, holding the pritchel 
 leaning inward, and gviarding against opening the holes too large 
 from this surface. Again pritchel the holes from the ground sur- 
 face, so that their final shape will conform to that of the nail. The 
 pritchel is held more nearly upright as the holes are punched suc- 
 cessively from toe to heel. 
 
 In pritcheling out a nail hole, to avoid blunting or breaking the 
 point of the pritchel, that part of the shoe where the nail hole is to 
 be is held over the pritchel or hardy hole. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
26 
 
 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOEKS. 
 
 17. To cut off the heels.— Apply the shoe to the model an<l note how 
 much must be cut from the heels. Care must be used, however, not 
 
 to cut them too short. It is better to have them too long and to 
 cut them oft again if necessary. 
 
 After heating to a white heat, place the ground surface on the 
 hardy at an angle of about 45° so as to cut the heels off to conform 
 
 PLATE VHI Cutting off and finishing 
 
 THE HEELS 
 H VnFinished heel H' Finished heel. 
 CA Square cut. a> tj' a ? 
 
 ED D^rechonof^ehat.A. ^ ^^ot'^A^' hot 
 
 AB Diac^onol cut. ra^pLnc^. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL, FOR ARMY HOESESHOEKS. 
 
 27 
 
 more nearly with the shape of the finished heel. This will greatly 
 reduce the amount of hot rasping. 
 
 In fitting a jDlate shoe for a foot the nail holes should be punched 
 iefore cutting off the heels so that if necessary the toe can be cen- 
 tered to correspond to the nail holes. 
 
 18. To finish the heels (hot rasping). — The heels are now finished by 
 hot rasping. The shoe is placed in the vise with the ground surface 
 toward you, and the heels are rounded, carefully preserving the 
 slight bevel (the foot surface being longer and wider than the 
 ground surface). 
 
 
 
 l^'^ ,. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■jj 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 I Mnl 
 
 ^mi 
 
 ... 
 
 i; 
 
 ■ 
 
 !■■? 
 
 I 
 
 Care must be used to lea^e no sharp edges on the heels that might 
 cut the horse. 
 
 19. To make any necessary corrections to secure a correct fit. — The 
 shoe is now ready for its final trial and is applied to the model. 
 
 If it does not exactly conform to the model, it will have at least 
 one of the following faults, which must be corrected according to 
 the explanation given in each case. 
 
 20. Too wide at the toe. — Heat the toe and hold it on the extreme 
 point of the horn, the center of the shoe resting on the liorn of the 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
28 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 anvil. Strike lightly near the toe on the side farthest from you, 
 then reverse the toe and strike as before. 
 
 Whenever the width of the shoe is to be changed, or a heel or a 
 quarter is to be thrown in or out, first make a guide mark on the 
 anvil. To do this hold one heel against tlie edge of the anvil toward 
 the horn and draw the shoe across the anvil so that the other heel will 
 make a mark on the face. Eei^eat this after the change is made and 
 a comparison of the two marks will show the amount of the change. 
 
 21. Too narrow at the toe. — Ileat the toe and hold it on the horn of 
 the anvil so that there will be a small space between the shoe and the 
 
 norn. Strike lightly along the toe, not confining the blows to any 
 one spot. 
 
 22. One heel and quarter too narrow. — To throw out a lieel and ([uar- 
 ter from a given point: Heat the quarter and, holding tlie heel on 
 
 the liorn, strike on the sijot from which it is desired to spread or 
 throw out the heel and cjuarter. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL, FOE AKMY HOKSESHOEES. 
 
 29 
 
 23. One heel and quarter too full. — {a) To throw in a heel and quar- 
 ter from a given point : Heat the quarter and hold it over the point 
 of the horn of the anvil so that the shoe will rest upon its inside edge 
 at the 2)o{nt from which the change is to be made. Strike near the 
 heel on the part projecting over the horn. 
 
 (Jj) To throw in one side without changing its general shape: 
 Heat the side that is to be thrown in and close the shoe bodily (par. 
 26), which operation will affect the hot side only. 
 
 (c) If neither of these methods accomplishes the desired result, 
 the quarter must be reshaped over the diagonal of the horn. 
 
 24. A bulge in the quarter. — Heat the quarter and hold over the heel 
 of the anvil. Strike directly over the l)ulge. 
 
 This will remove the bulge, but will also slightly straighten the 
 quarter, Avhich must later be reshaped. 
 
 25. A short straight place in a quarter. — Heat the quarter and hold 
 the straight place on the point of the horn, as shown in paragraph 23, 
 but strike alternate bloAVS on each side of and close to the point to be 
 rounded. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
30 
 
 MANUAL FOR AKMY HOKSESHOEKS. 
 
 26. Both quarters too full (with the general shape correct).— Heat 
 the whole shoe and, holding it on edge on the face of tlie anvil, strike 
 down on the elevated quarter. This will narrow or close tlie shoe, 
 but will not change its general shape. 
 
 27. Both quarters too narrow (with the general shape correct).— 
 Heat the whole shoe and, holding one heel on the face of the anvil 
 and one on the side, strike on the toe. This will open or spread the 
 shoe Avithout changing its general shape. 
 
 A perfect fit having Ijeen obtained, the nail holes are repunched if 
 necessary, and the whole shoe neatly finished with the rasp. 
 
 28. To level the shoe. — Heat the shoe uniformly until it begins to 
 show color. Grasp one heel of the shoe with the tongs ; remove from 
 the fire and place on the face of the anvil, foot surface up. Begin- 
 ning at one quarter and striking light overlapping blows with the 
 peen of the rounding hammer, go over the concave surface of the shoe. 
 Next, beginning at one heel, and striking light overlapping blows 
 with the face of the hammer, go over the bearing surface of the shoe. 
 This should remove anv bow or bulge toward the foot surface of the 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 31 
 
 shoe, but has a tendency to concave the whole shoe toward that surface. 
 To remove this and to complete the leveling, reverse the shoe on the 
 anvil and strike light blows with the face of the hammer over the 
 heels. Only very rarely will it be necessary to strike the shoe over 
 the quarters or toe. If, however, this is found to be necessary, in 
 order to level the shoe, great care should lie taken to strike directly 
 over the crease so as not to damage the concaving. and not to close 
 the crease. Take the shoe with the tongs near the toe on the far side 
 and examine it by sighting over the foot surface. To assist the eye 
 in this extremely important as well as difficult examination, lay the 
 shoe, foot surface down, upon the face of the anvil and rock the 
 shoe in different directions to see that the foot surface is not convex. 
 Place the eye in the same plane as the face of the anvil to see that 
 the bearing surface is not concave. If any unevenness remains after 
 the above operations, it can be removed by replacing the shoe on the 
 anvil and striking over the highest point. A crooked shoe will not 
 stay on the foot and is apt to cause lameness. 
 
 29. To finish the shoe. — The shoe now should be properly made and 
 fitted, according to the methods prescribed. Any sharp or rough 
 projection which might injure the horse must now be rasjied off. 
 
 To finish the shoe, place it cold in a vice, foot surface nearest you, 
 the jaws of the vise gripping one heel and the opposite toe and quar- 
 ter. With the smooth surface of the rasp go over the outer edge of 
 the foot surface, rounding it slightly. 
 
 Reverse the position of the shoe and repeat the operation on the 
 other toe, heel, and quarter. 
 
 Rasp smooth any other places requiring it. 
 
 This produces a bright line around the outer edge of the foot 
 surface, which shows up the outline of the shoe very clearly and is 
 of considerable assistance in the inspection of the shoe on the foot. 
 It also makes a nea/tly finished job. 
 
 168670°— 20 3 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
Chapter IV. 
 
 ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE HORSE'S FOOT. 
 
 30. By anatomy of the foot is meant a description of the various 
 parts entering into its formation; and by physiology is meant the 
 functions or uses of these parts. 
 
 31. The horse's foot is composed of four parts: (1) The bones; (2) 
 certain elastic structures of cartilage (gristle) and fat; (3) the 
 layer of highly sensitive flesh or quick {the corium) which covers 
 this bony framework; (4) the box, or case of horn, called the hoof, 
 which incloses and protects the sensitive j^arts. 
 
 32. Bones of the pastern and foot. — The bones of the pastern region 
 and foot form a column extending downward from the fetlock joint 
 into the hoof, and are named as follows : The long pastern bone {-first 
 phalanx), the short pastern bone {second phalanx), the coffin bone 
 {third phalanx), the navicular or shuttle bone. (See Pis. IX 
 and X.) 
 
 -WjmsmfimK'iiSi^ 
 
 mmMMm^^ssm.- 
 
 .JEBBBMSflW 
 
 -— KiSB 
 
 -jbfflssaeisjai 
 
 mims^tasm^^fmsm—.- 
 
 SBlEiaL- 
 
 IKAVICmil 
 
 IMSHSri- 
 
 
 32 
 
 Plate X. — Bones ok the Foot and Pasteen Region. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
wl. 
 
 A. Cannon bone. 
 
 B. Long paatcrn. 
 
 C. Short pastern. 
 
 D. Coffin bone. 
 
 E. Shuttle bofie. 
 
 F. Fetlock joint. 
 K. Coffin joint, 
 P. Pastern joint. 
 
 a. Extensor tendon. 
 
 PARTS OF THE HOOF AND PASTERN, 
 
 b. Deep flexor tendon. 
 
 c. P'=rioplic ring, 
 
 d. CoronQfy band. 
 
 e. Plantar cushion. 
 
 f. Sensitive frog. 
 
 Horny frog. 
 Periople. 
 Sensitive sole. 
 Horny soli:. 
 Sensitive lamina 
 Horny wall, 
 White line. 
 Ergot, 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft© 
 
Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOEES. 33 
 
 The long pastern bone reaches from the fetlock joint above to the 
 pastern joint below. Its upper end aiticulates with the lower end of 
 the canon bone, forming the fetlock joint. Its lowei end articulates 
 with the upper end of the short pastern bone, forming the pastern 
 joint. 
 
 The short fostern hone follows the direction of the long pastern 
 bone downward and forward, and lies between the pastern and 
 coflBn joint, its lower end being within the hoof. 
 
 The coffin bone is of irregular shape, is situated within the hoof, 
 and is similar to the hoof in form. The surface of the front and 
 sides is known as the wall surface. It has a number of small open- 
 ings for the passage of blood vessels and nerves, and is roughened to 
 give attachment to the sensitive lamina' which cover it. 
 
 On each side of this surface is a groove running forward to an 
 opening; an artery and a nerve enter the bone, and a vein leaves it 
 through this opening. 
 
 At the top of this surface, in front, is a projection called the ex- 
 tensor process, to which is attached the extensor tendon of the foot. 
 On each side of the coffin bone is an extension to the rear called the 
 wing. The lateral cartilages are attached to the outer and upper 
 borders of the wings and the ends of the navicular bone are attached 
 to the imier surfaces. 
 
 The lower surface of the coffin bone, called the sole surface, is con- 
 cave, half-moon shaped, and smooth, except at the back part, which 
 is roughened for the attachment of the deep flexor tendon of the 
 foot. It is called the tendinous surface. The upper surface, called 
 the articular surface or jobit surface, articulates with the short pas- 
 tern bone and navicular bone, and with them forms the coffin joint. 
 
 The navicular hone is of irregular shape, situated behind and 
 below the short pastern bone and behind the coffin bone, forming 
 a joint with both. The extremities of the bone are attached to 
 the wings of the coffin bone; the lower surface is covered with 
 cartilage, which forms a smooth surface for the movement of the 
 deep flexor tendon, which bends the joint ; for this reason the bone is 
 usually called the " shuttle bone." 
 
 33. Elastic structures of the foot. — All of the structures of the foot 
 except the bones, are more or less elastic or " springy " and yield 
 when pressure is applied ; but certain parts have a very high degree 
 of elasticity, their special use being to overcome the effects of con- 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
34 MANUAL, FOR ARMY HORSBSHOERS. 
 
 cussion or jar when the foot strikes the ground and to pl•e^■c■llt u^ury, 
 and these parts are referred to as the elastic parts ot t^e toot^ _^ 
 are the lateral cartilages and the plantar cushion or tattj iro^, - 
 
 is sometimes called. „f;ioo-o nnp 
 
 The lateral cartilages are two large elastic plates ot caitilage, one 
 attached to the top of each wmg of the coffin bone. They extend 
 backward and upward so far that their upper borders may be felt 
 vmder the skin above the coronet at the heels. 
 
 
 K3SM^1!55?1S? 
 
 'w^f^Tsmjmm 
 
 I'LATK XI.— foFFI.N IIOSIO OF UOKSE; SIDE VIEW. 
 
 rt, h. front ant] ri'ar extremities of cartilago. 
 
 The plantar cushion (fatty frog) is a very elastic wedge-shaped 
 pad, which fills up the space between the lateral cartilages on the 
 sides, the frog below, and the deep flexor tendon of the foot above. 
 The point, or front part, of the plantar cushion extends forward to 
 the ridge which separates the sole sui-f ace from the tendinous surface 
 of the coffin bone and lies just below the lower end of the deep flexor 
 tendon. The base, or back part, is covered by the sldn above the 
 heels. If the frog comes in contact with the ground when the foot 
 is planted, the plantar cushion acts as a butfer and prevents jar. 
 (See PI. IX.) 
 
 34. Sensitive structures of the foot. — Over the bones and elastic parts 
 of the foot is found a complete covering of very sensitive flesh. 
 From each part of this layer of flesh some portion of the hoof is 
 secreted or grown. The sensitive parts are: The coronary band, 
 the perioplic ring, the sensitive laminae, the sensitive sole, and the 
 sensitive frog. 
 
 The coronary hand is a thick band of tough flesh, about four-fifths 
 of an inch wide, extending entirely around the top of the hoof from 
 one bulb of the heel to the other, and lying in a groove (coronary 
 groove) on the inner upper surface of the wall. The surface of the 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
Plate XII 
 
 Deep flexor tendon 
 
 Coronary hand 
 
 Sensitive frog 
 
 Sensitive laminee 
 
 Wall 
 Horny 
 laminm 
 
 Horny frog 
 
 Horny sole 
 
 Foot of the Horse 
 Ons-halfofhoofreniored 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOERS 
 
 35 
 
 coronary band is covered with small pointed projections, called 
 villi, from which is secreted or grown the horny wall of the hoof. 
 
 The perioplic ring is a narrow band of flesh running around just 
 above the coronary band and separated from it by a faint groove in 
 the wall. From the fine villi on the surface of this ring the delicate 
 fibers grow which form the periople or hoof varnish. 
 
 
 
 /.%. 
 
 
 
 
 jT ■'^^I 
 
 ^ 
 
 ( U! mU. .i kli _ 
 
 
 Lm^ 
 
 Ctirlilitso orj 
 colli 11 bone. 
 
 *^t- Position of 
 ^Kk navieolar bone 
 
 
 
 ^^m 
 
 Srn'.iti f^ 1 iinm r 
 
 
 
 ^» 
 
 ^pi 
 
 1^^ — Outline of hoot 
 
 
 
 
 
 Plate XIII. — Side View of Foot of House .vftei! Removal of Hoof and Taut of Skin. 
 
 Coronary l>aiif! —JJ^^^^WW^ j9Bl^k. 
 
 ~- Periople of heel , 
 or bulb 
 
 — Angle of wall 
 
 , — Angle, of sofei 
 
 navicular bone ^^S^H|^H| 
 
 Sensitive 8o!^ — ^^B^^nK 
 
 Position of insertion of bBBIHHHI 
 deep flexor tendoQ 'yH^^H 
 
 i/ornysoie — i^ 
 
 Whito line 
 
 T-nwPr l.r.rHi^r <.f wall 
 
 i^'M 
 
 
 
 
 Plate XIV. — Oihiixd Surface of Foot of House ai-teic Ue.moval of Half of Hoof to 
 Show Sensitive Structures. 
 
 The sensitive lamiaw (fleshy leaves) cover and are firmly attached 
 to the wall surface of the coffin bone and to the lower part of the 
 outer surface of the lateral cartilages. P>om these delicate leaves 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
36 
 
 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOEES. 
 
 of the flesh grow the horny la>nin«', the inside lining of the horny 
 wall. 
 
 The sensitive sole covers the sole surface of the coffin bone, is cov- 
 ered with \illi, and secretes the horny sole. 
 
 The sensitive frog covers the lower surface of the plantar cushion, 
 and from its villi the horny frog is secreted. 
 
 35. The hoof.— The hoof is the outer horny covering of the foot. 
 It is divided into three parts— the wall, sole, and frog. In the 
 healthy foot these parts are firmly united. 
 
 p. 
 
 
 ' i 
 
 
 1- \ 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 (1^ [luslprn l>one. 
 
 
 
 j^Kj/ ^U, 
 
 .— -1 
 
 asl«ni joint. 
 
 
 
 jg^^ 
 
 \.^ #« 
 
 .Short, ijastc.rn bone. 
 
 ],aieralparlil3Re. 
 Niivicular bone. 
 
 -:.\ 
 
 ^ — -^ 'X A 
 
 Si 
 
 4^^'nfiin joint. 
 
 .4»»<-'ofliii bon(>. 
 B^<>^ Cut edge of wall. 
 
 ymisitivt^ lanuii:i- 
 
 ..— 
 
 «> ~ — — ijr^^^^a 
 
 l^^v^ 
 
 W^ ' 
 
 
 
 Plate XV. — Foot of Horse, showing SimrAcr, Kelations (jf Bones and Joints. — The 
 Cartilage is Largely Exposed. 
 
 The wall (except the bar) extends from the edge of the hair to 
 the ground, and is divided into the toe^ quarters, and huttress (or 
 Jieels). (See PI. XVI.) 
 
 The toe is the front part of the wall. It is steeper in the hind foot 
 than in the fore. The quarter extends backward on each side from 
 the toe to the buttress or heel. 
 
 The huttress is the rear part of the heel and may be defined as the 
 angle formed by the union of the wall and bar. The har is that part 
 of the wall which extends inward and forward from the buttress to 
 within about 1 inch of tlie point of the frog. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOERS. 37 
 
 The hoof is thus made stronger by the ends of the wall extending 
 inward to form the bars. The bars are weight carriers, and they also 
 act directly on the wall to produce expansion when weight is placed 
 on the frog. 
 
 The wall has two surfaces and two borders. 
 
 The outer surface of the wall is covered by a thin varnish-like coat 
 of fine horn, called the periople. 
 
 The inner surface is covered with from 500 to 600 lamina' (leaves). 
 These are thin plates of horn running downward and forward. Be- 
 tween them are fissures into which dovetail the sensitive laminae. 
 The horny laminae and the sensitive laminae are firmly united, and this 
 union (a) binds the wall of the hoof to the coffin bene and its carti- 
 lages; (&) suspends the weight of the horse from the wall as in a 
 sling; and (c) thus prevents the bones from descending on the sole. 
 
 The upper border of the wall has a deep groove (the coronary 
 groove) in which lies the coronary band. The lower border is known 
 as the hearing surface, or spread. It is the part that comes in con- 
 tact with the groimd in the unshod foot and to which the shoe is 
 fitted in the shod foot. 
 
 The homy sole is a thick plate of horn, somewhat half-moon 
 shaped. 
 
 The upper surface is arched upward, and is in union with the 
 sensitive sole from which the horny sole grows. The lower sarface 
 is hollowed and is cohered with scales or crusts of dead horn, which 
 gradually loosen and fall off. 
 
 The outer border of the sole is joined to the inner part of the 
 lower border of the wall by a ring of soft horn called the irhite line. 
 This line is also called the guide line, as it shows where the nail 
 should be started in shoeing. 
 
 The inner border is V-shaped, and is in union with the bars except 
 where the sole joins the point of the frog. The sole protects the 
 sensitive parts above, and it should not bear weight, except a very 
 narrow strip on its border along the white line, an eighth or a tenth 
 of an inch in width. 
 
 The frog is a wedge-shaped mass filling the V-shaped space between 
 the bars and sole and extending downward, more or less below the 
 bars and sole. The lower surface has two prominent ridges, separated 
 behind by a cavity called the cleft, and joining in front at the point 
 of the frog. These ridges terminate behind in the huTbs of the frog. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
38 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 Between the sides of the frog and the bars are Uxn ca\ ities called the 
 commissures. 
 
 The upper surface of the frog is the exact reverse of the lower, 
 has in the middle a ridge of horn called the frog ntay. which assists 
 in forming a firm union between the horny and sensitive trogs. 
 
 The function of the frog is to assist the plantar cushion in break- 
 ing the jar or concussion, to prevent slipping and to produce ex- 
 pansion and contraction upon which normal blood circidation m the 
 foot depends. (See pars. 37 and 38.) 
 
 36. Structure of horn.— The horn of the hoof consists of fine fibers, 
 similar to the hair in structure, held together by a cementing sub- 
 stance. The horn fibers run in a parallel direction downward and 
 forward and are straight in the wall and sole and wavy in the frog. 
 The fibers of the frog are finer, softer, and more elastic than those of 
 the wall and sole. 
 
 The wall wears away at the lower border, or, if the animal is shod, 
 the growth is removed in preparation for shoeing. The sole and 
 frog scale off when the fibers have reached the proper length; they 
 should not be cut except when necessary in the treatment of a dis- 
 eased condition. (See Exceptions, par. 47.) 
 
 37. Moisture. — The wall of the healthy hoof is, by weight, about 
 one-fourth water, the sole more than one-third, and the frog almost 
 one-half. This water is svipplied by the blood and preserves the 
 horn in a tough and elastic condition. The periople, which covers 
 the wall, pI•e^•ents the CAapoi-ation of water, and therefore should 
 never be rasped. (See Exception, par. 5'2.) As there is no similar 
 covering for the sole and the frog, the layers of horn on their ex- 
 posed surfaces dry out and die. The dead layers are hard and brit- 
 tle, and gradually fall or flake off; but, as they preserve the moisture 
 in the layers of live horn beneath, as little as possible should be re- 
 moved in preparing the hoof for shoeing. 
 
 38. Expansion and contraction.— When the foot is placed on the 
 ground the frog comes in contact with the ground and is forced up- 
 ward, compressing the plantar cushion against the deep flexor tendon 
 and the bony framework above. This compression causes the 
 plantar cushion and frog to spread out to the sides, pressing 
 outward energetically the cartilages, the bars, and the walls at the 
 heels and quarters. This is called e.rpunshn. It does not occur in 
 a foot so shod that the frog can not come in contact with the 
 ground. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
MANUAL FOE AKMY HORSESHOERS. 39 
 
 When the weight is removed from the foot the plantar cushion 
 and frog return to their normal shape, allowing the cartilages and 
 the quarters to return to their original positions. This is called 
 contraction. Upon the alternate expansion and contraction of 
 these parts of the foot, nature relies for necessary beneficial effects. 
 
 
 ^«-^r~**^ 
 
 'X^—"^ 
 
 "W*N. 
 
 i 
 
 frn^J'^ 
 
 jH^ 
 
 JH^j^ 
 
 1 
 
 ^lj 
 
 H^ 
 
 ISh 
 
 m 
 
 ^H|pl 
 
 ^IM 
 
 I^SL 
 
 jSi 
 
 '^I^K 
 
 H^^H 
 
 H^SBk 
 
 mm 
 
 k'^B 
 
 p^V 
 
 ^^HL 
 
 Fi 
 
 Wit ':^^B 
 
 
 flELflk 
 
 i 1 
 
 ^xH 
 
 hBI 
 
 H|^^9 
 
 ^B ''^^ & 
 
 "' ' ,*i 
 
 ^^^R 
 
 KFj 1 
 
 m\ 
 
 
 l^p 
 
 JF J^^m 
 
 \^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 «/ar 
 
 H 
 
 IkP^^I^i^ 
 
 ^gf* 
 
 0^ 
 
 ^iii 
 
 S) 
 
 Plate XVI. — Eight Foke IldoF of IlniisE ; GiionxD Suiiface. 
 
 1. Bearing surface of the wall. 2. Horny laminae. 3. Angle of wall (buttress). 4. Bar. 
 5. Horny sole. 6. Angle of soli-. 7. Point (apex) of frog, S. Cleft of frog. ;i. Com- 
 missures. 10. Bulbs of frog. 11. White line .(junction of wall and sole). 
 
 The elastic lateral cartilage is merely a flexible extension of the 
 wing of the coffin bone and would appear to have been specially 
 designed for expansion and contraction at the quarters. It is also to 
 be noted that the bars are a provision for this same purpose, since 
 expansion and contraction could not take place if the wall formed 
 a solid unbroken ring around the hoof. 
 
 Expansion and contraction diminish the jar to the foot and 
 leg. The action is increased as the horse increases his gait. This 
 action also assists in the circulation of the blood through the foot. 
 When expansion occurs the blood is forced out of the veins of the 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
40 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSBSHOERS. 
 
 foot up into the pastern region, wliere the Auhes prevent its return. 
 When contraction occurs and tlie parts resume their normal shapes 
 and positions, fresh blood is drawn from the arteries for the nourish- 
 ment of the tissues of the foot. For this reason the horse should 
 have daily exercise to give the tissues of the foot their jjroper 
 nourishment. When the horse is taken out to work he should be 
 walked at first to allow the circulation to adjust itself to the change 
 from rest to work. 
 
 Digitized by Microsoft® 
 
Chapter V. 
 
 NORMAL SHOEING. 
 
 By normal shoeing is meant the shoeing of a sound foot of a horse 
 with proper gaits. 
 
 39. Kaising the foot. — In preparing to raise a horse's foot never ap- 
 proach the animal suddenly, for he will not only be startled, but a 
 sudden pull at his foot will probably disturb his balance, and the 
 lifting will be more difficult for both man and horse. 
 
 To raise the forefoot, the shoer stands with his back to the horse's 
 head and places his inside hand on the horse's shoulder. Then, bend- 
 ing over, he runs his hand gently down the back of the leg until the 
 fingers, with the thumb on the outside, are just above the fetlock. 
 The shoer's shoulder is pressed against the shoulder of the horse, 
 forcing the weight upon the other fore foot. (PI. XVII, fig. 1.) 
 A slight grasp of the hand on the tendons is usually sufficient to 
 induce the horse to raise the foot. 
 
 The shoer next straddles the horse's leg and holds the foot upon 
 his knees, standing so that his body is about opposite the horse's 
 shoulder, and in close to him, so that the horse's leg is not pulled 
 outward in a strained position. The shoer's toes should be turned in 
 to give strength to the position. (PI. XVII, fig. 2.) 
 
 40. Eaising the hind foot is performed in two different ways. In 
 the first method the shoer, standing at the horse's flank and with his 
 back to the animal's head, bends until his shoulder presses the horse's 
 thigh, runs his hand gradually down the tendons and grasps them as 
 in raising the fore foot. In the second method, the one generally 
 employed, the shoer stands as in the first method, but with his outside 
 foot advanced (PL XVIII, fig. 1) ; the hand nearest the horse is 
 placed upon the animal's hip, gently pushing him over and forcing 
 the weight upon the opposite hind foot; meanwhile the other hand 
 is run slowly down the back tendons from below the hock. The leg 
 is grasped under the fetlock and is slightly raised forward. The 
 shoer now swings his inside leg under the horse's leg (PI. XVIII, 
 fig. 2), presses it with his knee and extends it to the rear to the posi- 
 
 41 
 
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42 
 
 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 tion shown in Plate XVIII, figure 3. Care must be exercised that 
 the foot is not held too high nor carried too fai- to the lear or out- 
 ward, for the discomforts of these strained jiositions will induce the 
 horse to pull his leg away. 
 
 Plate XVII. — Raising the Foot. 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOBKS. 
 
 43 
 
 41. Preliminary examinations. — Three careful examinations should 
 be made before old shoes are removed from the horse : 
 
 (1) Of the action of the feet when the horse is in motion. 
 
 (2) Of the shape and position of the feet at rest. 
 
 (3) Of the evidence of wear on the old shoe. 
 
 I'LATK XVIII. KAISING THE FoOT. 
 
 For the first examination, the horse having free use of his head, 
 should be led at a walk and at a slow trot upon level ground. Un- 
 even ground will produce modifications of the natural gait, and a 
 tight rein or a short hold on the halter shank will also alter the free, 
 natural motion. The shoer assumes a squatting position and ob- 
 
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44 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOBRS. 
 
 serves the feet as the horse is led past him, away from him and 
 toward him. The manner in which a foot leaves the ground its 
 path in the air, and the manner in which it is planted should be 
 closely watched in order to detect any of the defects of gait wtiicn 
 can be remedied by intelligent shoeing. (See Ch. VII.) 
 
 42. For the second examination, the horse should stand at ease on 
 the floor; the shape of each foot and leg should be observed from 
 the front, from each side, and from the rear, care being exercisea 
 that the leg, at the time, is bearing its proper share of the animal s 
 weight. . , 
 
 The shoer first studies the natural pastern conformation, is the 
 pastern slanting inward (toe m), is it vertical (straight), or is it 
 sloping outward (toe out) ? (PI. XIX, figs. 1, 2, and 3.) 
 
 Having decided this point, he then studies the position of the 
 " pastern axis " and the " foot axis." 
 
 As seen from the front we may consider that the " pastern axis " 
 is the imaginary line exactly splitting the long pastern in two, and 
 that the " foot axis " is the line exactly splitting the foot in two : 
 that is, the line from the center of the toe to the center of the coronet. 
 (The foot axis may be drawn on the hoof wall in chalk.) 
 
 These two axes should be in prolongation or appear to be one 
 straight line no matter what the natural f astern conformation (figs. 
 1, 2, 3, and 5), and if the shoer finds this condition satisfactory he 
 will simply need to prepare the foot evenly for shoeing, as explained 
 later. But if the two axes do not appear as one straight line there 
 will be a break at the coronet. This is a proof that the foot is not 
 level and that the horse is not standing correctly. If the line is 
 "broken out" (fig. 4) the prolongation of the pastern axis falls to 
 the outside of the foot axis and the inner wall is too high, and the 
 fault is remedied by nipjiing off more of the inside wall than of the 
 outside. If the line is "broken in" (fig. 6), the prolongation of the 
 pastern axis falls to the inside of the foot axis and the outside wall 
 is too high and should be trimmed down more than the inside. The 
 dotted lines in the figures show the amount to be trimmed off. 
 
 It will be noticed that the " broken out " foot looks Jlhe the 
 " toe in " and the " broken in " foot loolcs like the " toe out," but in 
 the natural conformations there is no break at the coronet. 
 
 43. Standing at the side, the shoer should notice the height of the 
 foot, the length of the toe. and the slope of the line of the toe ; that 
 is, the front line of the hoof as seen from the side. 
 
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MANUAL FOK ARMY HORSESHOBRS. 
 
 45 
 
 Here again we have three cases of natural pastern conformation : 
 The " sloping," the " regular," and the " stumpy " (figs. 7, 8, and 9) ; 
 but the line of the toe should, nevertheless, be parallel in each case 
 to the pastern axis as seen from the side. 
 
 PASTERN CONFORMATION. 
 
 2 STBAIOHT 
 
 3. TOE OUT 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE HOOF. 
 
 BROKEN OUT 
 
 6. BROKEN IN 
 
 PASTERN CONFORMATION. 
 
 7. SLOPING 
 
 8. REGULAR 
 
 9. STUMPY 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE HOOF. 
 
 10. BROKEN BACK 
 
 11. CORRECT 
 
 12. BROKEN FORWARD 
 
 Plate XIX. — The Foot Axis and the Pastern Axis. 
 
 By careful sighting from the side draw a chalk line between the 
 second and third clinches, with exactly the same slope as the line of 
 the toe. This mark will generally have the same direction as the horn 
 fibers. Now stand back and determine if this mark and the " pastern 
 axis " as seen from the side are one and the same line. If so, trim 
 
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46 MAISTTJAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 off the surplus growth evenly. If not, the line will be Ijroken at the 
 coronet. In " broken back '" (fig. 10) the prolongation of the pastern 
 ajsis falls to the rear of the foot axis and the toe is too high and 
 should be trimmed more than the heel ; in " broken forward " the 
 prolongation of the pastern axis falls in front of the foot axis and the 
 heels are too high and should be trimmed more than the toe. 
 
 The " broken liack " lool'>< lihe the sloping pastern and the '• broken 
 forward^' Joohn 111;' the stumpy pastern. Tlie l)reak at tlie coronet, 
 however, is the snre guide. 
 
 For the tliird examination the foot must be raised. 
 
 44. The wear of the old shoe should be carefully noted as a checK 
 on the preceding two examinations. If the shoe has worn normally, 
 its position on tlie foot was undoubtedly correct. If one side of the 
 shoe shows more wear, (ff) (hat side may have l)een fitted too closely ; 
 (fe) there may be some fault in gait which should ha\-e been noted in 
 the first examination: (c) the foot may n(jt have been properly 
 leveled in the last shoeing; (iT) the quarters, as frequently happens, 
 may have grown unevenly since tlie last shoeing. Horses with long, 
 sloping pasterns wear the shoe more at the heel, while those with 
 short, upright pasterns' wear the shoe more at the toe. There is a 
 slight scuff at the moment of breaking over, which produces a normal 
 wear at the toe, greater than elsewhere, but overworked horses and 
 those suffering from disease show more than this normal wear. 
 
 45. Removal of the old shoe. — The clinches are cut off' or straightened 
 with the clinch cutter and hammer. The sharp edge of the clinch 
 
 . cutter is placed under the edge of the clinch and struck with the 
 hammer until the clinch turns up flat against the wall or is broken 
 off. If even one clinch is left holding, it may break off that portion 
 of the wall to which it is fastened. 
 
 Beginning at the heel, each side of the shoe is loosened with the 
 pincliers and, gradually working toward the toe, is separated from 
 the hoof until all the nails are free except those at the toe. The shoe 
 is then firmly grasped at the toe with the pinchers and is pulled to- 
 ward the center of the foot. If pried over the toe, toward the out- 
 side of the foot, part of the hoof may be broken off'. Any stubs of 
 nails remaining in the foot must be removed. 
 
 46. The preparation of the foot.— The following are the different 
 operations which must be performed in the preparation of the foot. 
 They should be taken up in the order given, as each step depends 
 upon those which precede it. 
 
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MANUAL FOB ARMY HORSESHOERS. 47 
 
 With the horse standing evenly on its feet, examine the foot and 
 pastei'n axes to determine the necessary changes, if any, to be made 
 besides the removal of the surplus growth of horn. 
 
 47. To determine the amount of horn to be removed from the foot, and 
 to facilitate the use of the nippers. — Take the knife in the riglit hand, 
 back of the hand down, the blade coming out at the little finger, 
 palm of the left hand supporting the wall of the hoof and the left 
 thumb on the blade to assist in cutting and to prevent slipping, pare 
 away the dead horn of the white line and of the loall and sole border- 
 ing the white line until live horn is reached, being careful Tiot to 
 go farther hack than the last null hole. The knife must never be 
 used on the bars or the frog. The bars strengthen the hoof and assist 
 in its expansion. Cutting, therefore, weakens them and prevents 
 them from performing their function. Never use a knife on the hoof 
 of a horse that has been running barefoot, nor on fiat feet, either 
 natural or diseased. 
 
 The only two exceptions to this rule which prohibits the use of the 
 knife on the frog are permitted in cases when its use is absolutely 
 necessarj' to preserve the frog and to insure proper shoeing. One 
 exception is that the knife may be used with great care to remove 
 ragged parts of the frog, which if left on would permit of an accu- 
 mulation of filth and disease or which might tear off in work and 
 damage the frog. The second exception is that the knife may be 
 used with gi-eat care to remove part of the frog when it extends over 
 and covers the buttress. This is done to secure a proper seat for the 
 heels of the shoe on the buttress. 
 
 48. To remove the surplus growth of horn from the wall. — In remov- 
 ing surplus growth of horn it is safer to lower the toe first, for, if 
 the heels be lowered and, later, it is found that a corresponding 
 amount of horn can not be cut from the toe, it will be impossible 
 to i)ut the foot at the proper angle without the use of heel calks or a 
 thickened web at the heels. 
 
 Taking the nippers in both hands so that the handles are per- 
 pendicular to the plane of the bearing surface, begin at the last nail 
 hole and cut until the white line shows plainly and live horn has 
 almost been reached; start with a thin cut or bite and gradually 
 increase the depth of bite to the point of the toe ; continue along the 
 opposite wall to the last nail hole on that side, gradually diminish- 
 ing the bite. 
 
 168670°— 20 4 
 
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48 MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOEBS. 
 
 49. To level the foot.— Grasp the rasp with the right hand, the left 
 hand near the far end, left palm resting on the upper surface to act 
 as a guide. Place the coarse side of the rasp against the ground 
 surface of the wall on the right half of the foot, and with long, 
 even strokes, smooth off the foot Avhere it has been cut with the 
 nippers. Then work on the buttress and bring it to the same level 
 as the quarter and toe, removing such horn as may be necessary and 
 no more. As a guide to beginners in taking down the heels, it will 
 be found that, in the average foot when properly prepared for 
 shoeing, the height of the wall at the heels is approximately one- 
 third of the length of the wall at the toe. Beginners usually bear 
 too strongly with the right hand and remove more with the hind 
 part of the rasp than with the front part. Avoid this fault. Fre- 
 quent tests should be made to avoid removing too much of the horn. 
 P'or this purpose take the foot in both hands and press with the 
 thumbs near the white line; if the sole yields ever so slightly no 
 more horn should be rasped away or lameness will result. Work 
 carefully and slowly on the flat foot, which has a thinner sole than 
 the cup-shaped foot. 
 
 For the left half of the foot reverse the hands on the rasp and 
 proceed as above. This half will be found moi^e difficult at first 
 on account of the awkward position, and as a result the work will 
 often be slighted. ExiDerience with beginners shows that the right- 
 handed man leaves the left half too high four times out of five. 
 
 To determine the level of the foot, the shoer raises the foot to a 
 position for sighting o\er the bearing or ground surface ; let the foot 
 hang naturally and do not press against it with the thumb, as this 
 is apt to disturb the pastern and foot axes and make the foot appear 
 level when it is not; sight over each side separately, from the but- 
 tress to the toe. and note any irregularities which may a]:)pear in 
 these two surfaces; now continue the plane of the quarter and heel, 
 on one side across or through the horny frog to the opposite side of 
 the foot, for the purpose of determining whether or not the two sides 
 are in the same plane. This may be done with the eye by drawing 
 an imaginary line, or by placing the smooth surface of the rasp on a 
 level with the bearing surface of the foot, as indicated by the line 
 e — /• To determine the level of this plane, draw an imaginary verti- 
 cal line through the cleft of the frog, as shown by the line c—iJ. If 
 the latter line (r- — c/) is perpendicular (forming right angles) to the 
 line e— /, the plane of the foot is level. Both sides may be in the 
 
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MANUAL FOR AKMY HORSESHOBES. 
 
 49 
 
 same plane and the foot not level. In such a case the plane is canted. 
 The line e — / represents a canted plane, and it will be noted that it 
 does not form right angles with the vertical line c — d. The true or 
 level plane will be found at the line a — 1>, which line forms a perfect 
 right angle with the line c — d. (PL XX.) 
 
 50. Place the foot on the gi-ound and examine it from all sides and 
 note carefully the following: Does the foot stand at the prescribed 
 
 Plate XX. — Level of the Foot. 
 
 angle; are the quarters equal in height; is the foot either broken 
 out or broken in? If any of these conditions is not correct, the 
 necessary changes should now be made. 
 
 The hearing surface of the foot, is defined as that part of the 
 ground surface of the foot which rests against the shoe, including 
 the wall, the white line, and about one-eighth of an inch of the sole. 
 
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50 
 
 MANUAL FOE AKMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 When the leveling of the foot is completed, observe whether the 
 sole is level with the wall at the inner angle of the buttress; if it is, 
 remove from it a thin plate of horn, aliont a sixteenth of an inch 
 thick, with the knife, being careful not to cut the walls or liars. 
 This is to prevent pressure on the sole, which might result in corns 
 at this point. 
 
 51. Plate XXI shows the appearance of a foot before and after 
 preparation. This is the near forefoot of a field artillery wheel 
 horse, and was selected on account of the clearly defined bars. It 
 is to be observed that in leveling the bottom of this foot, it being a 
 case of flat foot, the rasp trims off the sole inside of the proper 
 weight-bearing surface. The shoe should lenr upon the latter sur- 
 face onlj'. 
 
 52. As will be explained later under Nail Driving, the nails should 
 enter the bearing surface of the foot at the outer edge of the white 
 line, and come out of the wall at a height of about one inch. This 
 distance will vary up to 1\ inches for large feet. In the service 
 
 Plate X.\I. — I'kei'ai£ation of the Fogx. 
 
 Appearance after oUI slice is r<^raove<l. 
 
 The foot ready tor the new shoe, 1, toe; 
 -, quarters ; o, buttress or heels ; 4, i)ars. 
 
 shoe the distance of the crease from the outer edge of the web is 
 fixed for each size shoe. This distance is correct in the majority 
 of cases, allowing the nail to start into the foot at the proper place; 
 but many horses havqD^^g^ Wf^M^fmmm tliickness of wall, that. 
 
MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 51 
 
 if prepared normally without removinp; any of the outside wall, 
 there is a greater distance from the outer edge of the wall to the 
 white line than this distance on the shoe. Consequently a shoe 
 nailed on to a foot of this Kind would cause the nails to be driven 
 between the white line and the outer edge of the wall. This is ob- 
 jectionable because the horn of the wall is less elastic and more brit- 
 tle as it approaches the outer surface, and frequently the bite of the 
 wall (that portion outside of the line of nails) cracks open or breaks 
 off, materially damaging the foot. 
 
 Heavy horses with wide feet and horses raised on soft, marshy 
 pastures usually have flat feet. The natural flat foot, although par- 
 ticularly liable to bruises of the sole, must be classed as a sound foot 
 and must be distinguished from one that is flat as a result of disease. 
 
 On account of its shape, the natural flat foot is sometimes called 
 " flare foot." The wall in such a foot wears away (or is trimmed 
 away) at a more obliqiie angle than in the ordinary foot. In the 
 above cases where the width of the liearing surface of the wall ex- 
 ceeds the width of the bearing surface of the shoe, from the nail holes 
 to the outer edge, it will be necessary, in the preparation, to remove 
 a part of the outer surface of the wall in order that the nails may 
 be driven in the outer edge of the white line. 
 
 The preceding figures clearly explain this case. It must be re- 
 membered that only in the above cases is it permitted to rasp the 
 outside of the wall. 
 
 The amount of horn to be removed from the outer wall is de- 
 termined by the width of the wall on the bearing surface of the 
 foot. The height to which the outer wall should be rasped in this 
 operation uiust be go\-erned by the flare, or by the thickness of the wall 
 at this particular point. It should not exceed once and a half the 
 width of the wall on the Ijearing surface. 
 
 53. In general.— The foot should be prepared so that it will approxi- 
 mate as nearly as possible to a state of nature, and only such trim- 
 ming is allowed as is absolutely necessary for the purpose of fitting 
 and securing the shoe. 
 
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52 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOEES. 
 
 54. The shoe.— When horses are in constant use, it is necessary to 
 prevent the too rapid wear of the hoof. The modern shoe, lieyond 
 all question, is the best means to accomplish tliis lesidt. although it 
 somewhat hiterferes with the natural contraction and expansion ot 
 the foot. "When shoes are left f)n the feet for too great a length o± 
 time, corns and other aihnents result. Ordinarily a shoe should be 
 renewed once a month. The heavier the shoe, the greater the labor 
 of the horse. Hence, except in special cases, the lightest shoe that 
 will last about four weeks is the best shoe. The shoe should carefully 
 follow the form of the foot. If the wall is Ijroken, the shoe should 
 be fitted so that the nail holes will fall over the outer edge of the 
 Avhite line. The web of the shoe should be wider at the toe than at 
 the heels. At the toe the width should be about twice the thickness 
 of the wall of the hoof at that point. The length of the shoe is regu- 
 lated by the bulb of the frog, and the thickness of metal is made 
 sufficient to wear about one month. 
 
 The bearing surface of the shoe must l)e level, smooth, and accu- 
 rately shaped to support the bearing surface of the foot. When the 
 foot surface of the shoe is wider than the bearing surface of the foot, 
 the inner part of the shoe must be concaved to avoid excessive sole 
 pressure which is harmful. Care must be taken to concave only 
 enough to remove sole pressure. If too much space is left between 
 the shoe and the sole, small pebbles, grit, and dirt may collect, 
 producing sole pressure at those points. Concussion of the sole 
 against the inner edge of the foot surface of the shoe invariably pro- 
 duces soreness. The ( luter edge of the foot surface of the shoe should 
 be slightly rounded. 
 
 This adds to the appearance, produces a better fitting shoe, and to 
 a marked degree prevents cutting if the horse travels close. The 
 width of the crease of the shoe should be uniform, and its depth 
 about two-thirds of the thickness of the shoe. The crease makes the 
 shoe lighter in proportion to its width and is an aid to prevent slip- 
 ping. Xail holes should be punched to fall over the outer edge of 
 the white line. 
 
 Clips are semicircular ears drawn upward from the outer edge of 
 the shoe to prevent its slipping. A clip extends above the upper sur- 
 face a distance equal to the thickness of the shoe, or sometimes far- 
 ther on hind shoes. When leather is interposed between the shoe 
 and the bearing surface, the clip must be correspondingly raised. 
 Toe and side clips assist the nails in holding the shoe in place. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 53 
 
 55. Normal shoes. — Bj' a normal shoe is meant a shoe for a sound 
 foot of a horse with proper gaits. The service slioe (PI. XXII) is, 
 of course, a normal shoe. 
 
 In the Army six sizes of machine-made shoes — Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 
 and 6, front and hind — are issued. Each size is made in five differ- 
 ent weights, as follows : " Extra extra light," " extra light," " light," 
 " medivmi," and " heavy." 
 
 Plate XXU. — Normal Shoe 
 
 For riding horses in garrison service the '" extra extra light " or 
 "extra light" weight is generally the most desirable shoe to use. 
 It will wear a reasonable length of time and is light in weight, per- 
 mitting jumping and other fast work without unnecessarily fa- 
 tio"uing the horse. The " city head " nail is the best for use with this 
 weight shoe. 
 
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54 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 For riding horses in field service the " light " weight is in most 
 cases the best shoe to use. This heavier weight shoe will give better 
 protection to the foot, resisting the shock or concussion caused l)y the 
 foot striking the gi-ound, to a greater degree than the lighter weight 
 shoes. Another advantage of this heavier weight shoe for field serv- 
 ice is the greater amount of wear it will stand. The " regular head 
 nail is best for use with this weight shoe. 
 
 For draft animals, as the work to be done both in garrison and 
 field service is limited to slower gaits and is more confined to the 
 roads, the necessity for fast work is not so great. On the other hand, 
 as the work is usually done on hard surfaces, the necessity for heavier 
 shoes which will afford more protection to the feet by absorbing the 
 shock, becomes greater. The " medium " weight shoe will be found 
 best in the majority of cases. The " regular head " nail should be 
 used with this shoe. 
 
 It will be noted that the heels are much longer than necessary, but 
 they are manufactured in this manner so that the extra length can 
 be used in turning heel calks or in making a bar shoe. It often 
 happens that a larger size is required for the front than for the hind 
 foot of the same horse. 
 
 Four other shoes belong to this class : 
 
 The calked shoe (PI. XXIII, fig. 1) is used to enable the horse to 
 secure firm footing on slippery or ice-covered roads. Its use must 
 be confined to actual necessities, for the calks raise the frog from the 
 ground and prevent natural expansion and contraction. Permanent 
 contraction of the heels, corns, and even sidebones result from the 
 constant use of this shoe. 
 
 When calked shoes are necessary, it is best to use the bar shoe on 
 the front feet to maintain frog pressure. The hind feet are less 
 susceptible to diseases caused by lack of frog pressure. 
 
 Sharpened calks (fig. 2), for use on ice, are even more to be 
 avoided on account of treads and injuries caused by interfering and 
 by kicking. 
 
 The plate (fig. 3) is merely a light-weight shoe turned from bar 
 steel. 
 
 The snaw shoe (fig. \) has a smooth, concave ground web, which, 
 to a great extent, prevents the accumulation of snow and mud, and 
 also gives firmer footing. The figure shows a shoe turned from the 
 issue shoe. 
 
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MANUAL FOE AEMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 55 
 
 The polo shoe (fig. 5) has a flange on the outer edge of the ground 
 surface which prevents slipping. 
 
 Platk XXIII. — Normal Shoes. 
 
 Fig. 1. The calked shoe. Fig. 2. The sharp calked (or ice) shoe. Fig. 3. The plate shoe. 
 Fig. 4. The snow shoe. Fig. 5. The polo shoe. 
 
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56 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 THE SERVICE SHOE. 
 
 56. Selecting the shoe.— The foot having been prepared, leveled, and 
 made ready for the shoe, estimate the size of the shoe required, lo 
 do this it is necessary for the beginner to place it on the foot and 
 note the position of the nail holes, being careful not to take a shoe in 
 which the last nail hole will be in the rear of the bend of the 
 quarter. 
 
 Select a shoe of the proper size and weight, or the nearest available. 
 iXoiv examine the pritchel, and if it is not of the proper shape 
 point it. (See Tools.) 
 
 57. The successive steps in fitting the shoe.— The successive steps in 
 fitting the shoe should be taken up in the following order : 
 
 (1) Draw the toe clip. 
 
 (2) Shape the toe. 
 
 (3) Open the nail holes. 
 
 (4) Shape the quarters. 
 
 (5) Make the seat for the clip. 
 
 (6) Make the first trial for fit. 
 
 (7) Make any necessary change in outline. 
 
 (8) Draw the heels. 
 
 (9) Cut off the heels. 
 
 (10) Finish the heels (hot rasping). 
 
 (11) Make final trial for fit. 
 
 (12) Concave and level the shoe. 
 
 (13) Finish the shoe. 
 
 58. Drawing the toe clip. — Fitting hammers with two different 
 styles of pecn are considered in this work. The one with the round- 
 edged peen is shown in the following cuts. For the fitting hammer, 
 
 with spherical peen (rounding hammer), see Plate II. paragraph 1. 
 Having procured a shoe of the desired size and having noted the 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 57 
 
 general changes to be made in its shape, especially at the toe, place 
 the toe of the shoe in the fire, ground web down. When the toe is 
 
 
 VW'-'l 
 
 5 
 
 ^^ "mwmm ^ 
 
 
 
 ! ,._.. i 
 
 
 white hot take the tongs in the left hand, seize the shoe near the heel 
 on the side nearest you, remove it from the fire and place it on the 
 face of the anvil ground web up, center of toe projecting over the 
 anvil about an eighth of an inch, heels held at an angle of about 30°. 
 With smart strokes with the peen of the hammer drive down the 
 center of the toe until a small shoulder appears underneath; place 
 this shoulder against the far edge of the anvil, holding the shoe so 
 that the heels form an angle of about 45° below the face. Hold the 
 right hand low and with strokes toward you along the face of the 
 anvil, using the heel of the face of the hammer, draw out the toe clip, 
 bringing the heels closer to the anvil as the clip is drawn. Be care- 
 ful that the clip is in the center of the shoe. The clip, when finished, 
 should be a little higher than the thickness of the shoe, and thickest 
 at the base, tapering gradually to the point. 
 
 59. Shaping the toe. — The toe is then opened, as may be necessary 
 (par. 21), being careful not to injure the clip. To open the toe of a 
 
 large shoe where the horn of the anvil is too small for the usual 
 method, hold the shoe as shown above, but pull the quarter on the 
 
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58 MANUAL FOK ARMY HOESESHOEKS. 
 
 side opposite you firmly against the lioiii. Then strike on that 
 quarter near the toe, bringing the hammer toward you and keeping 
 up the pull on the tongs. The other side is opened in a snnilar 
 manner after reversing tlie shoe. This method is frequently used 
 in fitting the very large shoes required for heavy draft horses. 
 
 60. Opening the nail holes.— In the service shoes it will not be neces- 
 sary to use the countersink for nail holes, because the crease is 
 wide enough to take the nailhead. Use the pritchel to open the 
 holes, as in paragraph 16, but pritchel the foot surface first in order 
 to give the nail holes the proper slope and to remove the slight burr 
 left on the machine-punched shoe, and the ground surface last, so 
 that the hole will be finished in the shape of the nail. For the first 
 work the shoe may be placed anywhere on the face of the anvil, 
 because the service shoe is thick enough to prevent any chance of 
 spoiling the point of the pritchel ; but for the last work the pritchel 
 or hardy hole must be utilized, as previously explained. The toe 
 clip generally makes it difficult or impossible to place the nail hole 
 nearest the toe over the pritchel or hardy hole. For these nail holes 
 shift the shoe to the nearest end of the face of the anvil and hold 
 the nail hole slightly outside of the edge. 
 
 It will generallj' be found that the work up to this stage can be 
 done with the heat remaining from that required for the toe clip. 
 Beginners, however, maj^ find it necessary to reheat the shoe in 
 order to open the nail holes. In this case, place the shoe in the fire 
 with the clip up, to avoid burning it. 
 
 61. Shaping the quarter, — The quarters will usually be found too 
 full, and if so must be heated and shaped over the horn by the method 
 explained in the plate shoe, except that the shoe is slightly turned so 
 that blows will fall on the edge of the foot surface in order to avoid 
 closing the crease. 
 
 62. Making the seat for the clip. — Cool the shoe and apply it to the 
 foot. In order to secure a neat fit at the toe it is necessary to make 
 a seat for the clip, which other Avise will stand out its full thickness. 
 Now is the time to prepare this seat. Place the shoe in position with 
 the clip accurately centered, and, using the knife, scratch a small 
 mark on the edge of the wall at each end of the clip. Put the shoe 
 aside and carefully whittle away the edge of the wall between the 
 two marks. Work slowly and test frequently by replacing the shoe, 
 so that you will cut away just what is necessary and no more. (See 
 Seedy Toe, par. 92. 
 
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MANUAL, FOE ARMY HOKSBSHOERS. 59 
 
 63. Makings the first trial for fit. — Now make the first trial of the 
 fit. If the toe is fonert, note where either of the sides neetls re- 
 shaping. 
 
 The outline of the finished shoe must exactly follow the outer edge 
 of the hoof to the last nail hole, and gradually widen from that point 
 so that about an eighth of an inch of the upper surface will show 
 at the end of the heel. If, however, a foot is found to have a portion 
 of the wall broken off when the animal is brought to the shop, the 
 shoe must be fitted so that the nail holes will fall on the outer edge 
 of the white line. If the toe has been broken, the shoe is fitted as 
 just explained, but, of course, there are no nail holes to act as a 
 guide. The toe clip is omitted and side clips are used if necessary. 
 
 64. Making any necessary change In the outline. — Any changes that 
 are now found to be necessary should be made as described in 
 Chapter III, paragraphs 19 to 27. 
 
 65. Drawing the heels. — The width of the heels of all finished shoes 
 must conform to the width of the buttress. In shoeing a foot with a 
 very wide buttress it is often unnecessary to draw the heels at all, 
 but in some cases they must be drawn as explained in the plate shoe. 
 (Par. 15.) 
 
 The web of the service shoe from the end of the crease back to the 
 end of the heels is narrower than the web of the toe or quarter. 
 Ordinarily it will not be necessary to draw (or narrow) the heels to 
 fit the foot. The sharp edge on the outside of the ground surface of 
 the web, from the end of the crease back to the end of the heels, 
 should be rounded to confoim to the bevel of the toe and quarter. 
 
 The shoe is placed on the horn of the anvil in j^osition as for draw- 
 ing the heels. Strike light blows with the hammer on the edge near 
 the ground surface. The shoe when fitted should cover the buttress 
 and allow for expansion. The heels of the hind shoe should be 
 rounded, but not drawn, as the web is much narrower than that of 
 the front shoes. 
 
 Remember that the bearing surface of the shoe rrmst cover the 
 buttress and you then have a guide for the width of the drawn heels. 
 
 In the issue shoe, the outer edge is bevelled as far back as the end 
 of the crease, but is square from that point to the end of the heels. In 
 finishing the shoe, be\cl the squai'e part also. 
 
 66. Cutting off the heels. — The finished heel should extend back, cov- 
 ering the buttress, and even with the bulb of the frog. The heels 
 should be marked and cut off as explained in Chapter III, para- 
 grajjh 17. 
 
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60 MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOERS. 
 
 67. Finishing the heels (hot rasping) .—The heels iire jkat hot rasped, 
 as explained in Chapter III, paragraph IS. 
 
 68. Making the final trial for fit.— The shoe is now ready for the 
 final tiial for fit. Place the shoe on the foot and note the outline 
 of the shoe and the length, width, and finish of the heels. If these 
 are found to be correct the shoe is ready for concaving and leveling. 
 "V^Tiile the shoe is on the foot note the amount of concaving that wdl 
 be necessary. 
 
 69. Concaving and leveling the shoe. — The bearing surface of the 
 shoe, upon which rest the wall, the white line, and not more than an 
 eighth of an inch of the sole, must be level, fit exactly to the hoof 
 (without any air s]iace), and extend back even with the bulb of the 
 frog. The part of the upper surface inside of this bearing surface 
 must be concaved (hammered down while the shoe is hot) in order 
 to avoid any possthniti/ of sole pressure which would produce lame- 
 ness. At the heels there should be no concaving, but the sharp inside 
 edge should be uTighfly rounded. Concave and level the shoe as 
 explained in Chapter III, paragraph 28. 
 
 70. Finishing the shoe. — As explained in Chapter III, paragraph 29. 
 
 71. The calked shoe. — The successive steps in making and fitting 
 the calk shoe are taken up in the following order : 
 
 (1) Make the necessary changes in the toe. 
 
 (2) Weld on the calk. 
 
 (3) Draw the toe clip. 
 
 (4) Open the nail holes. 
 
 (5) Shape the quarters. 
 
 (6) Make the seat for the toe cli]). 
 
 (7) Make the first trial for fit. 
 
 (8) Make any necessary change in the outline. 
 
 (9) Cut off the heels if necessary. 
 
 (10) Turn the heel calks. 
 
 (11) Make final trial for fit. 
 
 (12) Concave and level the shoe. 
 
 (13) Finish the shoe. 
 
 72. To weld on the toe calk.— The issue toe calk has a sharp nib or 
 point on that surface which is applied to the ground surface of the 
 shoe. Heat the toe of the shoe to a white heat and, placing it on 
 the face of the anvil with the gi-ound surface up, hold the calk 
 with the tongs across the toe and far enough back so as to allow 
 for turning the toe clip. Strike the calk lightlv over the nib to 
 
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MANUAL FOR AEMY HORSESHOEES. 61 
 
 mark its place. Now, with a fine-pointed pritcliel, start the liole, 
 then replace the calk, the nib in the hole, and with a few sharp 
 blows of the hammer secure the calk so that it barely touches the 
 shoe. If driven forcibly against the shoe, the nib does not grip 
 securely. 
 
 Return the shoe to the fire, calif up, and tilt or rock the shoe 
 forward and backward to insure equal heating of both shoe and 
 calk. When the proper heat — fluxing — (see Heats) has been ob- 
 tained, place the shoe on the face of the anvil, foot surface up, with 
 the nib end of the calk farthest away. Strike light blows on the 
 foot surface over the calk to unite the metal, the first blow being 
 struck over the near end of the calk. Xow, reverse the shoe, hold- 
 ing the toe away and the calk broadside to you, and strike heavier 
 blows on the calk to complete the weld. 
 
 73. To turn in a heel calk. — Heat the heel to a white heat. Remove 
 the shoe from the fire with the tongs, holding it near the toe; 
 place the shoe at any convenient part of the face of the anvil with 
 the ground surface down, a half to three-quarters of an inch of ±he 
 heel projecting over the heel of the anvil. Strike on the part of 
 the heel projecting over the edge and turn it at a right angle to 
 the shoe. The height of the heel calk should correspond to that of 
 the toe calk. The calk is squared by working on the face of the 
 anvil; place one side on tlie face and strike on the upper side. 
 
 74. To weld on a heel calk. — To use heel calks with the bar shoe, it 
 will be necessary to weld them on after the bar has been made and 
 the shoe fitted. This is done as follows : Select a calk of the same 
 dimensions as the toe calk used, but only half as long. Place the 
 calk, nib to the rear, on the ground surface of the shoe, just for- 
 ward of the bend at the heel, about the center of the web, and run- 
 ning parallel to it, mark the proper position of the nib on the shoe 
 and proceed to weld as described for the toe calk. 
 
 75. Fitting. — The calked shoe is fitted in the same manner as the 
 service shoe, with the exception that the heels are made a little 
 longer and are slightly turned out from the end of the buttress in 
 order to give a wider support to the foot and to thus prevent as far 
 as possible the rocking of the shoe. For use on ice the calks are 
 sharpened, but a horse so shod must never be turned loose with other 
 horses. 
 
 The use of the calk shoe is prohibited except at times when local 
 conditions make its use absolutely necessary to prevent slipping. 
 
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62 MANUAL FOR AEMV HORSBSHOEES. 
 
 76. Polo shoe.— This shoe is made from rib bar steel, which is ob- 
 tainable in the bar shai)e only. It is made with a flan2:e,_or rib, on 
 one surface of the liar, and is graded numerically according to size 
 and weight of bar. Xo. 4 bar is the best size for polo shoes. 
 
 It is made as explained in the plate shoe, Chapter III, but with 
 the rib on the outer edge of the ground surface. Low heel calks are 
 frequently used on the hind shoe. This shoe takes a strong grip on 
 the gi-ound, and, in its effect on the foot, approximates more nearly 
 the plain shoe in that it does not lessen the base of support at the 
 foot as the calk shoe does. 
 
 77. Nail driving.— The nails issued for use in the Army are 
 machine-made, and the sizes in general use are Xos. 4, .5, 6, and 7. 
 No. 4 nail is used for plate shoes: No. .5 nail for a No. 1 and 2 shoe; 
 No. 6 nail for a No. 3 and 4 shoe ; No. 7 nail for the shoes of heavy 
 draft horses; and No. 8 nail, and sometimes even 'No. 9 nail, for the 
 shoes of some of the largest heavy draft horses. 
 
 Each size of nail is made with three diflferent patterns of head, as 
 follows: " Plate head," " city head," and " regular head." The " city 
 head '" is best for use with light-weight shoes, such as extra extra 
 light and extra light, these shoes having a shallow crease. The 
 " regular head " is best for use with the heavier pattern shoes that 
 have a deeper crease. The " city " and " regular head '" differ in that 
 the head of the nail on the " regular " is hii-ger than that on the 
 " city." The " plate head " is best for use with stamped or counter- 
 sunk shoes. The head is larger and more tapering than the " city " 
 or " regular head " nails. The shank of nails of all three patterns 
 is the same. 
 
 One side of the shank of the nail is flat; the other side is concave 
 and also has a bevel near the point. This bevel, as it enters into the 
 horn, forces the point of the nail in the direction of the other side 
 (flat side). Therefore always hold the nail with the fat sid<> toward 
 the (lut^'ide edge of the nhoe. 
 
 By driving nails into the wall of the foot some of the horn tubes 
 are destroyed, and the higher the nails are driven the greater the 
 injury to the wall. Nails should, therefore, come out at a height 
 just sufficient to hold the shoe ordinarily not exceeding 1 inch. On 
 the other hand, if the nails come out too low the shoe may be lost 
 and the wall seriously damaged. In order to damage the wall as little 
 as possible, both the size and the number of the nails should be as 
 small as will secure the shoe properh'. 
 
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MANUAL, FOR AKMY HOKSESHOERS. 63 
 
 The outside of the white line is the correct place to start the nails, 
 and shoes should be fitted with this end in view. Nails thus started 
 come out evenly on the wall, are low, and at a strong angle. 
 
 To the experienced shoer the feel and the sound of the nail and 
 the amount of force required in driving are important guides. 
 
 The nail is held between the thumb and fingers to steady it in 
 starting, and, if going properlj', it imparts to the fingers a character- 
 istic sensation called the " feel of the nail." A nail driven into 
 healthy horn gives off a distinct sound which the shoer soon learns 
 to recognize. All nails going properly must be driven with consider- 
 able force. A nail driven with slight resistance, i. e. " going easy," 
 is either in an old nail hole or serious damage is being clone because 
 the nail is entering the soft sensitive structures of the foot (prick- 
 ing). 
 
 Nail heads must be sunk in the crease until they are flush with 
 the ground surface of the shoe. If this is not done, the heads may 
 project unevenly and throw the foot off the level. They will also 
 wear quickly and cause a loose shoe. Hence the imjDortance of using 
 the correct size and pattern of nail to conform to the size and shape 
 of the nail hole and the nailhead seat. 
 
 78. Securing the shoe. — The shoe is placed upon the bearing surface 
 of the foot and held firmly in position with the left hand, back up. 
 A nail is placed between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, 
 the flat side faced outward, and the thumb and the fingers are then 
 extended along the right side of the shoe until the nail is held 
 squarely in the center of the most convenient nail hole, usually the 
 third (the third hole on the left side for a left-handed man) ; with a 
 toe clip on the shoe the second nail hole is generally used. The nail 
 head is tapped lightly with the driving hammer. The nail should 
 be held firmly to determine the feel, and the thumb and forefinger 
 should not be removed until the nail, going soundly, needs no further 
 guidance. The shoe is then grasped more firmly and the nail is 
 driven with slightly increased force. The middle finger, placed on 
 the wall of the foot, and removed before each stroke of the hammer, 
 determines the exact location at which the nail emerges. 
 
 With the claw of the hammer the point of the nail is then bent 
 upward until it stands at a light angle to the wall. Next, the head 
 of the hammer is grasped in the hand and the claw is pushed firmly 
 downward, clutching the nail point. A half turn downward and 
 
 168670°— 20 5 
 
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64 MAXUAL FOR AEMY HOESESHOKKS. 
 
 a slight pull wrings the point off close to the wall, leaving enough 
 nail to form the clinch. In wringing off nails the hammer is held 
 in the hand nearest the nail point. 
 
 As the first nail when driven may cause the shoe to shift, it is essen- 
 tial to place it exactly in the centei- of the nail hole. If the shoe has 
 altered its position on the foot a pressure on the opposite side of 
 the shoe by the palm of the hand and a few light blows of the 
 hammer on the lower border of the wall Avhere the first nail is 
 driven will move the shoe back to place. 
 
 The second nail should be driven on the side opposite to the first 
 nail. When these two nails have been driven the foot should be 
 allowed to rest upon the floor, and the foot and shoe should l)e care- 
 fully examined from all sides. Are the positions of the nails correct ? 
 Is the foot axis correct? Does the shoe fit properly? Is its length 
 correct? Does the horse stand evenly upon the ground surface of 
 the shoe? The shoer should not I'esume his task until he is satisfied 
 in all particulars. If any irregularities exist this is the time for 
 correction. When the shoe has l)een properly set drive the remain- 
 ing nails, the fourth nails on either side being driven first. As each 
 is driven the point 'ik promptly irnmg oif. When all the nails have 
 been driven the heads are forcil)ly hammered well into the crease, 
 securing the shoe evenly upon the foot. 
 
 The clinching l)lock is then placed under a nail point. When the 
 driving hammer strikes the nail on the head the nail point is bent 
 over toward the bottom of the foot, and the nail is drawn up into 
 the wall, tightening the shoe upon the foot. 
 
 In seating the nailheads into the crease or nail hole, and in draw- 
 ing up the nails and turning the clinches, begin on either side of the 
 foot and take the nails in the following order : The toe nail, then the 
 heel nail ; change to the other side of the foot and take the toe nail, 
 the heel nail, and then the quarter nail or nails ; change back to the 
 first side and finish with the quarter nail or nails. This secures the 
 shoe evenly against the foot without drawing the shoe unduly tight 
 on one side, as is the case when one side is completed before the 
 other side is begun. 
 
 For very thin-walled or tender feet it is best to seat and draw up 
 the nails one at a time, alternating from side to side and beginning 
 at the toe. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 65 
 
 If the pinchers are used instead of the clincliing block, they should 
 be held as shown below. 
 
 Plate XXIV. — Holding the Pixchers for Clinching. 
 
 After all the clinches have been formed the foot is brought for- 
 ward upon the knees. With the ra.sp the clinches are made of equal 
 length, being in length about the width of the nail at this point. 
 
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The end of the nail is brought to a thin edjie l.y filing off the corner 
 on the underneath side and thus forming a short Ijevel which assists 
 in making the clinch smooth with the wall. A dkjht groove is made 
 in the wall under each clinch. With the clinching block held firmly 
 under each nailhead in turn, the clinch is bent down and hammered 
 in with the driving hammer. It is well to clinch the inside of the 
 foot first, thus renio\ing danger of the upturned clinches tearing 
 the opposite leg. Finally, the smooth side of the rasp is run lightly 
 over each clinch to take off the rough edges that might cause inter- 
 fering or pick up bedding or other material. Much filing of the 
 clinches weakens them and results in a cast shoe. AVhen finished the 
 clinch should be a trifle longer than the width of the nail at the 
 point where it comes out of the wall. 
 
 The rasp is now run lightly around the outer edge of the hoof to 
 smooth off the sharp or rough edge of the wall where it meets the 
 outer edge of the shoe. 
 
 The outside wall of the foot is )ieiier rasped except in the excep- 
 tional cases mentioned in paragraph 53. 
 
 The toe clip should be hammered back against the wall of the 
 toe after the inside has been clinched on the off feet and the outside 
 on the near feet. In other words, hammer back the toe clip when 
 the right arm is free. 
 
 After the shoeing has been completed the foot is again allowed 
 to rest upon the ground, and again carefully examined from all 
 sides. 
 
 Plate XXV shows the near forefoot of a newly purchased Cavalry 
 horse. The shoe, as may be seen, has been on for about three 
 months, and the foot is broken back. The lack of symmetry at 
 the heels shows that the shoe was probably not correctly fitted, 
 and that it certainly was not in proper position when nailed on. 
 
 The shoer, having learned to fit normal shoes, is prepared to 
 take up the study of shoeing to correct faults in gaits and shoeing 
 as an aid in the treatment of diseased feet. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 67 
 
 Plate XXV. — Foot iMrKOPERLi- Shod and Neglected. 
 
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79. Inspection of shoeing.— The horses shod during the day shoulcl 
 he ready for inspection at afternoon stahles, or other convenient 
 time, in the shop or stable, with their feet cleaned. 
 
 The horse should l>e examined on a lexel floor, as otherwise it is 
 impossible to determine whether he is standing correctly or not. 
 
 1. The following examination should be made while the foot is on 
 the ground : 
 
 (a) Pattern and foot axes. — Y'wv; the foot from the front and 
 side to determine whether the axes are cori'ect. (PL XIX.) 
 
 {h) The ft of the outline of the shoe. — Does it correctly follow the 
 outline of the wall to the last nail hole, and from there extend out- 
 ward, allowing proper s]iace for expansion? (Par. 63.) Xote par- 
 ticularly whether the wall has been rasped to fit the shoe. (Par. .52.) 
 
 {(■) The. toe dip. — Is it in the center? Is it of sufficient strength, 
 height, i^roperly finished and seated? (Pars. 5-i and C2.) 
 
 {d) The nails. — Are they evenly driven, the proper height and 
 distance apart ? Have any old nail stubs been left in the wall ? 
 (Pars. 77 and 78.) 
 
 (e) The dlncheH. — .Vre they of proper size? Are they well turned 
 and set in? Are they smoothed off and not rasped sufficiently to 
 weaken them? (Par. 78.) 
 
 2. The foot should then be raised and the examination continued in 
 the following manner: 
 
 («) The shoe. — Is it the proper size and weight? The last nail 
 hole not farther back than the l)end of the quarter? (Par. .iCi.) 
 
 (&) The preparation of the foot. — Has enough horn been removed? 
 Has too much been removed? (Par. 47.) Is the foot level? (Par. 
 49.) 
 
 [e) Bearing surface of the foot. — Does the shoe rest evenly on the 
 wall, covering the buttress and showing no air spaces at any point? 
 (Par. 69.) 
 
 (<■/) ConcaciiKj of the nhoe. — Is the shoe concaved enough, and not 
 too much? Xo sole pressure at any iioint { (Par. 69.) 
 
 {<') T^xe of the /.v/./'/V.— Has the knife been used on the bars, sole, 
 or frog other than authorized in the exceptional cases? (Par. 47.) 
 
 (/) The nails.— Xvi- they well seated in the crease? Are they the 
 correct size? Are they all of the same size? (Pars. 77 and 78.) 
 
 (//) T he heels of th< sheje.—Xve they the correct width and thick- 
 ness, properly rounded, without sharp edges or points? Is their 
 length even with the bulb of the frog? (Pars. 18 and 69.) 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HOKSESHOERS. 69 
 
 3. In cases where animals have been shod with calk shoes the 
 following should also be noted : 
 
 (a) Toe calk. — Is it properly secured and of proper height and 
 length? 
 
 (b) Heel calk. — Are they of the same height as the toe calks? 
 Are they properly turned and finished? 
 
 Aft«r becoming accustomed to making the daily inspection, the 
 time necessary should not exceed five minutes for each horse. 
 
 80. Preparing the foot for going barefooted. — When the soil, the 
 nature of the work, and the condition of the feet permit, it is advis- 
 able to remove the shoes and allow the horses to go barefooted. 
 
 Going barefooted I'ests the feet, favors freer expansion, toughens 
 the horn, and assists nature in restoring the foot to its natural con- 
 dition. However, the feet must have sufficient horn to allow for 
 wear. 
 
 Preparation. — Remove the shoe and prepare the foot as for normal 
 shoeing, except that about two weeks' growth of horn is left on to 
 provide for wear. After the wall has been properly lowered and 
 leveled, round the outer edge of the bearing surface from the bend 
 in one quarter to the other with the rasp. The amount of rounding 
 depends upon the thickness and slope of the wall, but generally 
 from one-third to one-half the thickness will be sufficient. 
 
 iVn oblique or flare foot may require about three-quarters the 
 thickness of the wall to be rounded oft' in order to obtain the correct 
 shape and slope. 
 
 When horses are going barefooted, their feet should be inspected 
 frequently, at least every 10 days, and any feet requiring it given 
 prompt attention. 
 
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Chapteb VI. 
 
 DISEASES OF THE FOOT-CAUSES, SYMPTOM^S TREATMENT- 
 PATHOLOGICAL SHOEING-THE MAKING OF PATHOLOGICAL 
 SHOES. 
 
 81. Informaticn in this chapter is for the guidance of the Army 
 horseshoer in his capacity as an assistant to his veterinarian. JNo 
 treatment herein prescribed should be attempted except when 
 directed by the \eterinarian or organization commander. 
 
 82. Patholoqical shoeing is shoeing for the relief of diseased feet. 
 The bar shoe (PL XXVII, fig. 1) is most commonly used because it 
 produces frog pressure, which increases blood circulation and thus 
 assists nature's method of building up diseased tissue. Removing 
 jjressure means trimming the bearing surface of the foot in such a 
 way that the shoe can not cause pressure upon diseased parts. 
 (PI. XXVI.) 
 
 THRUSH. 
 
 83. Thrush is a diseased condition of the frog, characterized by an 
 offensive discharge and a maceration, or softening, of the horn. 
 
 Causes. — Filth and moisture, particularly when animals stand in 
 stables saturated with urine. It is both a cause and a result of con- 
 tracted feet : A cause, by reducing the size of the frog and lessening 
 frog pressure; a result, because the small frog of a badly contracted 
 foot is poor in quality and has a lessened resistance to disease. It 
 is frequently caused Ijy high heels. 
 
 Symptoms. — Al first there is simply an increase of moisture in the 
 cleft of the frog, accompanied by an ofiensiye odor. As the macera- 
 tion proceeds the discharge and odor become more marked, the cleft 
 deepens, the horn spreads. Incomes underrun and loosened, and the 
 sensitiye structures are exposed. Lameness is usually absent but it 
 may be severe in very badly contracted feet and in mild cases when 
 the animal is traveling over loose stones. 
 
 Treatment. — Dry, clean stalls are essential. Pare away all loose 
 
 underrun portions of horn, then dry-clean the frog thoroughly with 
 
 oakum and paint with strong tincture of iodine; when the iodine 
 
 dries cover the frog with a pine-tar dressing. The astringent pow- 
 
 70 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 71 
 
 ders, such as burnt alum, three sulphates (equal parts of sulphate 
 of copper, iron, and zinc), calomel, etc., can also be used. In badly 
 contracted feet shoeing with bar shoes, leather pads, and tar and 
 oakum is advisable to lestore the frog to a health}'' condition. 
 
 CAXKEK. 
 
 84. Canker is a chronic disease of the sensitive frog and sole, char- 
 acterized by enlargement and a spongy, vascular (bloody) condition. 
 
 Causes. — Filth and moisture, commonly resulting from neglected 
 thrush; injuries which expose the soft structures and do not receive 
 proper treatment and protection. 
 
 Symptoms. — The diseased area is covered with a foul, moist, cheesy 
 material, and the villi are greatly enlarged and softer than normal. 
 The riioisture causes a softening and loosening of the normal horn 
 at the edges of the diseased area, which thus becomes larger, until 
 the entire frog, bars, sole, and even the wall may become diseased 
 and have a general spongy appearance and bleed readily. Lameness 
 is usually absent. 
 
 Treatment. — First pare the foot down thoroughly, removing all 
 underrun horn, and give it a good cleaning with a strong creolin 
 solution. The soft, spongy material must then be entirely removed 
 with the knife or scissors. Bleeding is usually profuse. A pressure 
 dressing of cotton and oakum can be applied to check the hemor- 
 rhage and left in place for a couple of hours. It should then be 
 removed and the foot wiped dry with cotton and covered with pine 
 tar, which keeps moisture away and is an antiseptic, protective dress- 
 ing; over this a large mass of oakum should be applied and held 
 firmly in place by a foot bandage. Place the horse in a well-bedded 
 stall, which is to be kej^t dry and clean. The treatment should be 
 repeated at intervals of four or five days, keeping the foot thoroughly 
 trimmed and applying large masses of oakum to produce much 
 pressure over the diseased area. As the parts become normal the 
 soft, cheesy material becomes gradually firmer and more flaky, and 
 the new horn fills in from the edges or from small centers until the 
 entire area becomes covered with a healthy horny layer^ 
 
 COENS. 
 
 85. A corn is the result of bruising the sensitive sole or sensitive 
 lamina; of the quarters or bars, and appears as a reddish spot in the 
 
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72 MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOBRS. 
 
 angle formed by the wall and the bar, nsnally on the inside of the 
 front feet, seldom in the hind feet. 
 
 Causes.— Stepping on stones and other hard objects; pressure of 
 shoe on sole, due to lowering the wall too much ; shoes too short or 
 left on too long, in which case the wall overgrows the heels of the 
 shoe ; heels lowered too much ; rapid work on hard roads, especially 
 when the feet are hard and dry, causing a great amount of concussion 
 and subjecting the foot to injury; high heels which remove the frog 
 too far from the ground, thus preventing the proper expansion of 
 the foot; contracted heels. 
 
 Symptoms. — Lameness may or may not be present. The horn is dis- 
 colored, and where bruises and inflammation are severe great lameness 
 is shown and suppuration may occur. When pus is present it burrows 
 into the surrounding soft structures, causing a separation of the 
 horn and making its exit at the heel or around the coronet. This 
 usually greatly relieves the pain and lameness. 
 
 Treatment. — Locate the seat of injury and its probable cause by re- 
 moving the shoe, cleaning the foot and thoroughly testing it with 
 the hoof tester or pinchers. Level the foot if uneven, and if no 
 lameness is present, reshoe, first removing the pressure over the 
 diseased area by trimming or lowering the horn; protect and soften 
 the horn by the use of a leather pad, tar, and oakum. If lameness is 
 present, reduce the inflammation by soaking the foot in cold water 
 or by poulticing it. This treatment usually gives prompt relief. If 
 the lameness increases, pus is probably forming and the underrun 
 horn must be removed, exposing the sensitive structures and pro- 
 viding for perfect drainage. Antiseptic washings and dressings 
 should now be used, the diseased parts being kept clean and pro- 
 tected. A good treatment is carried out as follows: First soak the 
 foot in a tub or pail of creolin solution for a quarter to half an hour, 
 then apply cotton saturated with tincture of iodine and cover with a 
 foot bandage. Eepeat dressing twice daily. When pus formation 
 ceases and lameness is no longer present, shoe with a bar shoe, after 
 removing all pressure, and apply a leather pad, tar and oakum. 
 
 In emergency cases where the bar shoe can not be made, the open 
 shoe can be used to good advantage by cutting off one branch of the 
 shoe about one-half inch in front of the corn. This will produce the 
 so-called three-quarter open shoe, and avoid shoe pressure on the 
 corn. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 73 
 
 INJURIES OF CORONET AND HEELS (trEADS). 
 
 86. These are caused by the animal oveneacliing — that is, striking 
 the heel of the front foot by the toe of the hind foot. Cavalry horses 
 and lead and swing artillery horses are likely to be stepped upon by 
 the animals following when the column is brought to a sudden stop. 
 They are also caused by the animal resting the heel of one foot on the 
 coronet of another, by stepping upon and thus bruising or wounding 
 the coronet, and by contact with hard or sharp objects. 
 
 Symptoms. — Lameness is usually present. The skin is lacerated at 
 the heel or coronet and the parts are sensitive. There is frequently a 
 separation of the hard and soft structures. These wounds, especially 
 those at the quarter and toe, are usually severe and badly infected, 
 and hence dangerous because they are so close to the important under- 
 lying structures (joints, tendons, etc.). They require close attention. 
 
 Treatment. — Eemove all loosened portions of horn, and dress as a 
 wound. Repeat twice daily and protect by foot bandage. 
 
 PUNCTURES OF THE FROG AND SOLE PRICKS IN SHOEING. 
 
 87. Causes. — Punctures of the frog and sole are caused by the ani- 
 mal stepping on nails, glass, sharp sticks, etc. Pricks in shoeing are 
 of two kinds : 
 
 («:) From the nails being driven into the soft structures, causing 
 immediate lameness. 
 
 (b) From the nails being driven too close, causing a bulging of the 
 inner layer of horn and pressure on the soft structures. Lameness 
 may be in evidence at once, but usually develops slowly and may 
 not appear for several days. 
 
 Symptoms. — Lamene&s, more or less severe. If the animal has been 
 recently shod always suspect the nails-. Clean the foot thoroughly 
 and remove the nails one at a time, examining each nail for moisture. 
 Test each hole with the hoof tester or pinchers; when the sore spot 
 is pressed the horse will flinch. If the nails are all right, examine 
 the rest of foot thoroughly in the same manner. 
 
 Treatment. — "VVliether an old or recent wound, trim the horn from 
 about it to establish drainage, clean the wound thoroughly with a 
 strong antiseptic solution, and apply an antiseptic dressing. This 
 may be applied as a wet pack; that is, cotton saturated with the 
 antiseptic or a poultice made with a strong antiseptic solution. If 
 
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74 MANtT,\L FOE ARMY HOKSKSHOEKS. 
 
 the pus burrows under the wall and escapes at the coronet, the under- 
 run portion of the wall must he removed to allow perfect drainage. 
 Repeat drainage twice daily until jnis foi-mation and lameness cease, 
 when the horse can be shod and put to work, protecting the foot with 
 tar and oakum and a leather pad. In all punctured wounds of the 
 foot there is danger from infection with the germs of tetanus, or 
 lockjaw, which are usually present in the soil, 
 
 QUITTOR. 
 
 88. A quittor is a diseased condition of the lateral cartilage or other 
 deep-seated structures of the foot, with the formation of sinuses 
 (tubes) . 
 
 Causes. — Suppurating corns, punctures of the sole, frog, or coronet, 
 in which the cartilage or other tissues are injured primarily or sec- 
 ondarily by the burrowing of pus. 
 
 Symptoms. — Swelling of the coronet, with one or more openings 
 (sinuses), which communicate with the diseased area and discharge 
 pus. Marked lameness is usually present. Lameness and pus foi'ma- 
 tion are increased by exercise. 
 
 Treatment. — Provide for perfect drainage by removing all under- 
 run horn, trimming away dead tissues, etc.; treat with antiseptic 
 foot baths and apply wet antiseptic dressings. The sinuses may be 
 injected with strong tincture of iodine and a wet pack of one one- 
 thousandth solution of bichloride of mercury (one tablet to a quart 
 of water) applied. Eepeat dressing twice daily. Perfect rest is 
 essential. If this does not effect a cure an operation will be 
 necessary. 
 
 SAND CRACKS. 
 
 89. Sand cracks are splits in the wall of the hoof running in a 
 parallel direction to the horn fibers. They are classified as toe, quar- 
 ter, heel, and Ixn^ cra-cls (broken bar), according to their location. 
 Cracks which affect only the upper border of the hoof are called 
 coronary craeU, those affecting the lower border of the hoof are 
 called low cracl>s, while those extending from one border to the other 
 are called complete cracls. Horses that have weak quarters are pre- 
 disposed to it, also those with brittle horn. 
 
 Causes.— Excessive dryness of the hoof, causing brittleness ; lack of 
 frog pressure; contraction; long toes; heavy shoes; large nails and 
 nails set too far back. Those cracks which start at the bottom, usu- 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOEES. 75 
 
 ally due to shoeing, are of little importance. Those which start at 
 the coronet are usually troublesome, especially when conformation 
 and feet are faulty. 
 
 Symptoms. — A fissure or crack in the wall at toe or quarter. The 
 fissure may be shallow and not cause lameness, or it may be a deep 
 one which extends through the thickness of the wall and, owing to 
 pinching of the sensitive lamina', causes lameness, frequently with 
 extensive laceration and hemorrhage. 
 
 Treatment. — First remove the shoe and soften the horn and reduce 
 the inflammation by cold foot baths or poultices. Then cut away 
 the hard overlapping edges of the horn to prevent the pinching of 
 the laminae. Shorten the toe, lower the wall, and trim away the bear- 
 ing surface of the wall so that it does not rest on the shoe for half an 
 inch to an inch on each side of the crack (PI. XXVI). Apply a 
 bar shoe, providing considerable frog pressure, and keep the foot 
 soft and elastic ^y applying tar, oakum, and a leather pad. Keep the 
 wall surface soft, especially over the crack, by daily applications of 
 pine tar or an oil. Blisters to the coronet are beneficial by stimulat- 
 ing the growth of horn. A run at grass, barefooted, for two or three 
 months is decidedly beneficial. 
 
 In case of toe crack the operation is the same. In shoeing, the 
 wall is cut away at the toe to prevent pressure. A bar shoe, rolled 
 at the toe and with a clip on each side of the crack, is recommended. 
 The bar shoe serves two purposes : 
 
 (1) Ordinarily it is not possible to drive the proper number of 
 nails on the side of the affected quarter, but the bar keeps the shoe 
 in place on account of the firm nailing on the other side. 
 
 (2) The bar gives frog pressure and expansion, which are desir- 
 able because quarter cracks usually result from a weak and drawn-in 
 quarter. 
 
 ]''ALSE QUAKTER. 
 
 90. This term is given to a faulty condition of the hoof in which 
 the horn is thin and weak, and extends from the coronet to the ground 
 surface of the wall. 
 
 Causes. — Most commonly caused by barbed wire cutting into and 
 destroying the horn secreting layer of the coronary band. 
 
 Symptoms.— The horn of the affected part is usually concave, rough 
 and scaly in appearance, and is much thinner than the adjacent 
 healthy parts of the wall. Owing to the weakened condition of the 
 
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76 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HOKSESHOEES. 
 
 wall, cracks may appear when the horn -becomes hard and dry and 
 cause laiueneHs. 
 
 Treatment.— This is confined to protection of the weakened area by 
 the- use of the bar slioe. removal of pressure, and keeping the foot 
 
 Plate XXVI, — Quaktek Ckack. 
 
 soft and elastic, preferably by the use of tar, oakum, and leather 
 pad. Should a crack appear and lameness result, treat as directed 
 under quarter crack. 
 
 LAjriNTTIS. 
 
 91. Lam/nlfh, or founder, is an inflammation of the sensitive 
 laminee, usually of the front feet, and may involve the adjoining- 
 structures. The pain is very acute, because the swollen laminte lie 
 between two hard surfaces (the coffin bone and the wall) and are 
 pinched by them. There are three forms: Acute, with pronounced 
 symptoms: subacute, in which the symptoms are mild, and chronic, 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOEES. 77 
 
 resulting from the acute, with structural change of the feet and 
 chronic lameness. 
 
 Causes.— These are many and varied. Concussion, chilling of the 
 body from standing in a breeze while overheated, drinking large 
 amounts of cold water after severe exertion and while in an exhausted 
 or overheated condition, grains eaten to excess, and improper food- 
 stuffs such as musty hay and grain, wheat and new oats, green foods 
 such as alfalfa, clover, and corn eaten to excess. 
 
 Symptoms. — In the acute form all four feet may be affected, but the 
 disease is usually limited to the front feet. The animal stands in a 
 fixed position with the front legs advanced, the weight being carried 
 on the heels; the pain is greatest at the toe because the laminaj are 
 largest and most vascular at that place ; the hind legs are advanced 
 under the body to relieve tlie forefeet of weight. Occasionally the 
 animal sways backward, elevating the toes to further relieve them 
 of weight and reduce the pain. He is moved with difficulty because 
 the movement increases the pressure and pain in the feet which re- 
 main on the ground. The feet are hot, and the arteries of the canon 
 and pastern have a distinct throb. The animal groans with pain 
 and sweats profuselj^ The pulse is full, strong, and rapid, beating 
 60 to 80 per minute. Constipation or diarrhea may be present. 
 Temperature 102° to 106*^. In some cases the animal stands persist- 
 ently ; in others he may lie for hours at a time. 
 
 Treatment. — Subacute {mild) lamlnlth. This form may be con- 
 veniently treated in the field by standing the animal in a pool of 
 water, preferably in a running stream, and removing the shoes if the 
 command is stationary ; in garrison by removing the shoes and stand- 
 ing the animal in a soaking stall, wet clay, or water hole. After the 
 feet have been soaked they should always be immediately dressed 
 with cosmoline or other prescribed hoof dressing to prevent evapo- 
 ration. 
 
 Feed laxative diet and give potassium nitrate. 
 
 Acute laminitis. — Place the animal in a well-bedded box stall; if 
 in the field, in a soft, grassy, shady spot if possible. If he does not 
 lie down, throw him. This affords great relief by resting the feet 
 and reduces the pain and inflammation. After once experiencing 
 the great relief afforded by lying, the animal will then usually lie 
 of his own accord. Remove the shoes. Give a laxative of 1 or 2 
 pints raw linseed oil, and give potassium nitrate in 1 to 2 ounce doses 
 three times a day. Apply cold wet packs to the feet and legs as 
 high as the knees and keep them wet. Feed laxative diet. As 
 
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78 MANUAL FOR AKMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 soon as the pain has diminished moderate exercise is beneficiah 
 This may be gradually increased as the animal improves. If re- 
 covery is not marked after five or six days apply a bar shoe with a 
 wide web, well rolled at the toe and concaved, and then a blister 
 of cantharides around the coronet; repeat the blister if necessary. 
 Use no toe clips. 
 
 Chronic laminitis is permanent laminitis resulting from one or 
 more attacks of the acute form of the disease. In the chronic form 
 there is always inflammation, sometimes more, sometimes less, but 
 never as severe as in the acute form. Laminitis frequently produces 
 great structural changes in the feet, due to loosening of the union 
 between the horny and sensitive laminae, and a rotation backward 
 of the coffin bone due to increased tension on the flexor tendon. 
 These changes consist of dropped sole, increased height of the foot 
 at the quarters and heels, seedy toe, and a chronic type of inflamma- 
 tion as noted above. When such changes result the usefulness of 
 the animal is greatly lessened, but by careful shoeing he is able 
 to do slow work satisfactorily. 
 
 In a case of chronic laminitis, pay special care to the concaving 
 and use a bar shoe rolled both at the toe and at the heel ; this is a 
 modified form of the roeker-motion shoe. This shoe produces a 
 uniformly smooth breaking over, without much jar. 
 
 LOOSE WALL OR SEEDY TOE. 
 
 92. Loose wall or seedy toe is a separation of the horny wall from 
 the sensitive wall. The white line becomes thickened and shows a 
 mealy condition. 
 
 • The separation usually starts in the white line of the toe or inner 
 quarter. 
 
 Causes. — Most commonly the result of generalized laminitis with 
 structural changes in the feet; localized laminitis caused by nail 
 pricks in shoeing and stejiping on sharp objects: injuries to the 
 wall from blows ; pressure from heavy, deep-seated clips ; deep hoof 
 branding with irons; excessive moisture, causing disintegration 
 (crumbling) of the horn fibers; foul standings; and by a horn-de- 
 stroying parasite. 
 
 Symptoms.— A soft, flaky condition of the horn, lameness usually 
 being absent. If there is marked crumbling of the horn with the 
 formation of a cavity between the horny and sensitive laminae, 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 79 
 
 lameness may result from injury to the sensitive structures by dirt. 
 and infection and pus formation may occur. 
 
 Treatment. — Eemove the unsound horn, clean the cavity, protect the 
 foot by means of a leather pad and apply a dressing of tar and 
 oakum. Use a bar shoe, well rolled at the toe; no nails should be 
 driven in the diseased part, but, instead, side clips should be used, 
 care being exercised that they bear only on the healthy horn. 
 Stimulate the growth of horn by applying a blister of cantharides 
 or mercurj' to the coronet. 
 
 XAVICULAK DISEASE. 
 
 93. Xavicular disease is a chronic inflammation at the point where 
 the tendon of the deep digital flexor passes over the na^acular bone. 
 
 Causes. — Faulty conformation, in which the liml) is placed under 
 the body and carries excessive weight; faulty conformation of the 
 feet in which the heels are high and narrow, resulting in excessive 
 concussion; long toes, in which the strain on the deep flexor tendon 
 is increased ; standing on inclined surfaces, such as stalls and picket 
 lines with an upward slope, thus increasing the strain.' It invari- 
 ably affects the front feet because the weight upon them is greater 
 than on the hind feet. 
 
 Symptoms. — Lameness, which is slight at first, but gradually in- 
 creases in severity. While traveling, the affected leg takes a shorter 
 step and the toe strikes the ground before the heel comes down. 
 In some cases the lameness may disai^pear for a day or two. When 
 resting, the animal points the toe, and if lame in both feet the limbs 
 are advanced and the feet rested alternately. If kept in a stall 
 with a soft floor a hole is usually dug and the animal stands with 
 the toes in the hole, the heels resting on the edge. This greatly 
 relieves the strain on the diseased area. As a result of the constant 
 standing on the toes the frogs atrophy (waste away), the heels con- 
 tract, and the wall at the heels becomes higher than normal. The 
 shoe shows abnormal wear as far back as the second or third nail 
 holes. Pressure over the navicular area with the hoof tester or 
 pinchers causes marked pain. Bar shoes also greatly increase the 
 lameness. 
 
 Treatment. — The disease is incurable, and treatment merely serves 
 
 to diminish the effects, though in the first stages treatment may be 
 
 beneficial. The inflammation should he reduced by means of cold 
 
 foot baths and poultices, followed by the application of blisters 
 
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80 MAl^VAL FOR ARMY HOKSESHOEBS. 
 
 around the coronet, after which the animal should be turned out; 
 on soft ground for several months, m^en necessary to use the 
 animal, prepare the feet normally and shoe with the rocker toe 
 (PI. XXIX, Fig. 1) or a four-calked shoe (PI. XXVII, Fig. 4), 
 with the toe calks slightly lowered. Keep the feet soft by the use of 
 foot baths, poultices, or the application of a leather pad. tar. and 
 oakum. 
 
 SIDEBONES. 
 
 94. Sidehone is an ossification (turning into bone) of the lateral 
 cartilage, frequently resulting from improper leveling of the foot. 
 Horses with flat feet and weak quarters are wredisnosed to this 
 disease. 
 
 Causes.— This disease is common in heavy animals working on hard 
 pavements and is due to concussion; improper preparation of the 
 foot in shoeing, one side being left higher than the other, thus in- 
 creasing the concussion on the lateral cartilage on the high side; 
 injuries to the region of the quarter and heels by treads, wire 
 cuts, etc. 
 
 Symptoms. — A hard unyielding condition of the lateral cartilage, 
 with or without lameness. The affected side of the foot contracts, 
 as a result of lack of expansion. Lameness is increased by fast 
 travel on hard roads and by a hard, dry condition of the hoof. 
 
 Treatment. — If lameness is present, first remove the shoe and level 
 the foot, then reduce the inflammation by cold foot baths and poul- 
 tices, followed by the application of a blister and a rest of four to 
 six weeks. If lameness persists repeat the blister and rest. In 
 shoeing an animal afflicted with sidebones level the foot carefully. 
 If the foot is affected on one side only and contraction has resulted, 
 the hoof of that quarter should be lowered about one-eighth inch and 
 the web of the shoe widened sufficiently to extend out to where the 
 normal foot would be. A plain shoe with rolled toe is recommended. 
 Frog pressure produces soreness and must ie carefully avoided. 
 
 CONTRACTED FEET. 
 
 95. Confracted feet refers to an unnatural shrinking or narrowing 
 of the feet at the quarters and heels. It is most frequently seen in 
 the front feet. The feet of some horses are naturally narrow, re- 
 sembling in .shape the feet of a mule. 
 
 Causes. — Lack of frog pressure is always the primary cause; con- 
 tributory causes are lack of exercise and lack of moisture, thrush. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 81 
 
 the continued use of heel calks, concaving the bearing surface of the 
 shoe back to the heels, and opening the heels with the knife. 
 
 Symptoms. — The foot, instead of being wide at the quarters and cir- 
 cular in shape, becomes narrow at the heels, which in very bad 
 cases may overlap, the frog atrophies and is frequently afected 
 with thrush. Lameness may be present as a result of the pinching of 
 the sensitive structures by the walls of the hoof. 
 
 Treatment. — Frog pressure is essential. If the feet are extremely 
 dry and hard, they may be softened by standing the animal in moist 
 clay or in water, or by the use of wet bandages around the coronets 
 (swabs). After the feet have been soaked they should always 
 be immediately dressed wnth cosmoline or other prescribed hoof 
 dressing to prevent evaporation. If the animal is to be used on 
 soft ground let him go barefoot, or shoe with the tip (PL XXVII, 
 fig. 3) ; otherwise use the bar shoe with leather pad, tar, and oakum, 
 packing the oakum very tight under the frog. 
 
 DRY FEET. 
 
 96. This is a troublesome condition, occurring most frequently in 
 dry weather. 
 
 Causes. — The moisture of the foot normally comes from the blood, 
 and depends largely upon the circulation, and a certain amount of 
 it comes by absorption from the ground. Shoeing, by raising the 
 frog from the ground, lessens the circulation and interferes with 
 absorption of moisture from the ground. Sudden changes in 
 weather, alternation from wet to dry, and soaking the feet in water 
 cause a softening of the perioplic covering and facilitate the evapo- 
 ration of moisture from the wall. Working in sandy ground wears 
 away the periople and facilitates evaporation, and rasping the peri- 
 ople produces the same condition. 
 
 Symptoms. — A hard, dry, and inelastic condition of the horn. This 
 increases concussion and frequently causes inflammation of the sensi- 
 tive structures and produces lameness. 
 
 Treatment. — Soften the feet by poultices or by foot baths and then 
 ajDply an oily covering to the wall surface ; or pack the cavity be- 
 tween the branches of the shoe with wet clay two or three times a 
 week. This is preferable to soaking in water, as it supplies moisture 
 to the foot and does not soften the perioi^le. Work the animal on 
 soft ground as much as possible. 
 
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82 MAXUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 An excellent dressing for dry, ))rittle, or contracted feet is made 
 of the following : 
 
 Crei)liii - 4ounces. 
 
 Pine tar 4 (Hinces. 
 
 Raw linseed oil 24 ounces. 
 
 Mix and apply to both wall and sole twice a week. When the 
 animal is shod the foot should be prepared and then a coating of the 
 dressing applied to the sole hefore nailing on the shoe. At other 
 times the dressing should be api)liecl at evening stables. 
 
 Or, 
 
 Pine tar 4 ounces. 
 
 Cosmoline , 4 ounces. 
 
 Neat's-foot oil 24 ounces. 
 
 ilelt together over a slow fire. Apply the same as the preceding 
 dressing. 
 
 A blister of cantharides around the coronet is beneficial by stimu- 
 lating the growth of horn fibers. 
 
 97. In this chapter have been treated the common foot ailments of 
 the Army horse. Pathological shoeing for drop sole resulting from 
 laminitis, for bowed tendons, and for other troubles that can not 
 be permanently cured has been omitted from this text book. The 
 Army horse must be ready for hard service. When his feet are 
 incurably bad he should not be nursed, but should be placed on 
 the inspection report. 
 
 THE MAKING OF PATHOLOGICAL SHOES. 
 THE BAR SHOE. 
 
 98. This shoe, as previously stated, is more frequently required in 
 Army shoeing than any other special shoe. It is made from the issue 
 shoe, and the general fit and shape when finished are the same with 
 the exception of the bar across the frog. 
 
 Select an issue shoe of the desired size and weight to admit of 
 turning the bar. 
 
 It is advisable for the beginner to fit the shoe to the outline of the 
 foot before turning the heels for preparing the bar. as the shoe is 
 more easily fitted before welding the 1)ar and the shoer can estimate 
 the amount of stock required for making the bar. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 83 
 
 99. To prepare the heels of the shoe before turning in (he bar— 
 (a) Scarfing. — This is accomplished by holding the shoe on the 
 face of the anvil (either surface on the face) and striking on the 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Plate XXVII. — P.vthological Shoe.s. 
 
 Fig. 1. Tbf Bar Shoe. 
 
 Pig. 2. Tlie Calked Bar Shoe 
 Calked Shoe. 
 
 Fig. 3. The Tip. Fig, 4. The Four 
 
 uijper edge of the extremity of the heel, the hammer held at an 
 an<J-le of about 45° with the plane of the upper surface. This will 
 result in a bevel between the upper and lower surfaces of the heel 
 
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84 MANUAL FOR AEMY HORSESHOBRS. 
 
 about a half inch in length. Sc;uf the other lieel in the same way, 
 except that the scarf is made on the opposite surface. 
 
 (h) Pointing the scarf. — To insure a smooth weld. This is done by 
 holding each heel in turn so that it Avill rest at an angle upon the 
 face of the anvil near the heel, and striking on the upper edge at the 
 end. 
 
 This cut shows the smith working on the heel of the shoe farthest 
 from his hammer hand, which was done simply to aid the photog- 
 rapher in producing a photograj^h that would show the angle of the 
 scarf most distinctly, while at the same time give a good view of 
 the position of the tongs and the hand holding same. 
 
 100. To turn in |he bar.— Hold the shoe with the tongs at or above 
 the toe; place the inside edge of the heel to be turned on the point 
 
 of the horn, the quarter nearly horizontal, with 1 inch or an inch and 
 a half projecting over the horn, depending upon the length of the 
 bar required. 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HOKSESHOBKS. 
 
 85 
 
 Strike on the upper edge of the portion projecting over the hoiii. 
 lowering the hand us the bend progresses, and turn in the desired 
 length at a right angle. 
 
 The length of the bend should be a little more than one-half the 
 length of the finished bar, as the ends must overlap for welding. 
 Turn the other heel in the same manner. 
 
 101. To prepare the bar for welding. — Close the shoe bodily until the 
 scarfed points overlap and then hammer the points down until they 
 fit closely, leaving no space for coal dust to accumulate. 
 
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86 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 102. To weld the bar.— Place the bar in the fire and heat to a weld- 
 ing heat (see Heats), tilting or rocking the shoe forward and back to 
 insure an equal heat on both sides. When the proper heat has been 
 obtained (fluxing), place the bar on the face of the anvil and strike 
 a few light blows on one point ; then reverse the shoe and strike on 
 the opposite point. This will bind the points together. 
 
 Reheat the bar to the welding heat and, taking the same position, 
 complete the weld by heavier blows, reversing the shoe so that both 
 sides will be flattened. After the weld is completed the bar is shaped 
 by holding one corner on the point of the anvil and striking on the 
 center of the bar and then reversing. This will set the center of the 
 bar forward, give it the correct shape at the heels, and prepare it for 
 beveling. The front half of the ground surface of the bar must be 
 haniniered down (beveled) to a point as shown in Plate XXVII, 
 figure 1. 
 
 103. Fitting. — The bar shoe is fitted as is the service shoe, and the 
 same heats are used. A little more allowance, however, is made for 
 exj^ansion on account of the added frog ijressure. 
 
 104. To open the toe. — The shoe is heated throughout to an even heat 
 and held upright with the bar on the face of the anvil. The blows 
 
 are struck along the toe, thus opening the toe and quarters without 
 changing the bar. 
 The toe may be opened as in the service shoe. 
 
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MANUAL FOR AKMY HORSBSHOEES. 
 
 87 
 
 105. To widen the heels.— By lengthening the bar. 
 
 (a) When the quarters are too long. — Heat the bar and the heels to 
 a cherry heat. Hold the shoe in the tongs at the toe and place inside 
 edge of the heel on the point of the horn, resting at the point from 
 which it is desired to turn the heel into the bar. Strike on the end 
 of the heel projecting over the horn. Then reverse the shoe and 
 proceed in the same manner with the other heel. 
 
 (h) When quarters are of the correct length. — Heat the bar to a 
 white heat and draw it out by working on the face of the anvil. 
 This will lengthen the bar and at the same time reduce its thickness. 
 After drawing out in this manner, the bar must be leveled with the 
 
 upper surface unless the frog is so large that it will produce the 
 desired pressure. The bar may also be drawn on the point of the 
 horn, working on one half and then reversing; this method thickens 
 the bar and should be used if the frog is very small. 
 
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88 
 
 MANUAL FOE ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 106. To close the heels. — By shortening the bar. 
 (a) When the quarters are of the correct length. — Heat the bar and 
 heels and, holding one heel on the face of the anvil, shoe perpen- 
 
 dicular, strike on the elevated heel. This will shorten the bar. also 
 narrowing and straightening the quarters. 
 
 (b) When the quarters are too short.— Place an inside edge of the 
 triangular part of the bar on the point of the horn and strike on the 
 part projecting over it. This will turn part of the bar into the heel. 
 
 (c) When the quarters are too long.— Hold the shoe upright, the 
 center of the bar on the point of the anvil, and strike on the toe. 
 
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MANUAL, FOK ARMY HOESESHOEKS. 
 
 89 
 
 This will push the bar toward the toe and shorten the shoe, bringing 
 the heels closer together. 
 
 107. To lengthen the quarters without changing the bar. — Draw out 
 the heels on the horn of the anvil as in the service shoe. 
 
 108. When one quarter is longer than the other, to bring the shoe 
 back to its proper shape: Heat the shoe throughout, and, holding 
 it upright with the point of the heel of the longer quarter on the 
 face of the anvil, strike on the upper edge of the shoe directly over 
 the point resting on the anvil. 
 
 109. Thinning the bar is often necessary in the case of a large frog. 
 To accomplish this, the bar is welded at about one-half the required 
 length and then drawn out on the face of the anvil, its lower surface 
 being leveled with the ground surface of the shoe. 
 
 110. In the case of an exceptionally large frog, it is necessary to 
 curve the bar below the ground surface to allow sufficient room and 
 to prevent too much pressure. Toe and heel calks (PI. XXVII, fig. 
 2) must be used with this shoe to insure a level ground surface. 
 
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90 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 111. To curve the bar.— Hold the shoe so that one end of the bar 
 rests on the edge of the face and the other on the horn of the anvil 
 and strike on the center of the upper surface. 
 
 THE TIP. 
 
 112. The use of the tip for Contracted heels leaves the foot in more 
 nearly a state of nature than any other shoe. It is sufficient for 
 ordinary work, and is easily applied. It should be thin, only thick 
 enough to hold the nails, and not be flexible. The best tip can be 
 made from an old shoe uniformly worn, the quarters being cut off 
 just in front of the fourth nail hole. Using the rasp across the toe, 
 lower the toe the desired amount as far back as the ti^D extends. 
 The heels of the tip should be thinned. If after the tip is secured 
 in place the walls back of the tip extend below its ground surface, 
 they can easily be lowered level with the tip by use of rasp. 
 
 The tip may be made from bar steel (PI. XXVII, fig 3) . In such 
 cases two nails on a side are sufficient, the nail holes being punched to 
 correspond to the first and third nail holes of a service shoe. 
 
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Chapter VII. 
 
 GAITS AND GAITING. 
 
 113. General principles. — In shoeing horses for the purpose of con- 
 firming or altering gaits, it must be remembered that there are al- 
 most as many variations in gaits as there are horses, and that methods 
 which are suitable in one case may be unsatisfactory in another. 
 There are certain important principles which, properly applied, will 
 be of material assistance in gaiting the majority of horses. Shoeing 
 alone will not always accomplish the desired end, but it always helps. 
 To shoe a horse so that he will be properly balanced and will travel 
 squarely requires skill, patience, and careful use of special shoes. 
 Where weight is used, it is alwaysi best to start with a small amount 
 of weight and gradually increase it until the desired result is accom- 
 plished ; otherwise injuries may result from overtaxed, strained, or 
 ruptured ligaments. 
 
 When all four feet have been shod, the animal is taken out and 
 again examined on level ground at a walk, trot, and gallop. 
 
 The horseshoer must bear in mind that seldom will shoeing alone 
 produce the desired gait or action, but that much depends on proper 
 riding and on the physical condition of the horse. 
 
 In all cases of shoeing to prevent injury to a leg or foot by an- 
 other, if, with careful riding, moderate corrective methods in shoeing 
 do not accomplish the desired results, shoe normally and use boots 
 to protect parts liable to injury. 
 
 The use of boots or bandages will render blows of one foot against 
 another foot or leg painless, give the horse confidence, and if the 
 blows are mild, with the use of boots they will only slightly affect 
 his gait. 
 
 114. Gaits, — The gaits in the Army are the walk, trot, and gallop. 
 Other gaits, such as the pace and single-foot, are occasionally found, 
 but they are not authorized nor desired. 
 
 91 
 
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92 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 115. The walk.— The walk is a foiir-lieat gait, in which the horse 
 lifts one foot at a time, in diagonal sequence, as, left front, right 
 hind, right front, left hind, and plants them in the same order. 
 
 116. The trot.— The trot is a two-beat gait with a diagonal move- 
 ment, in which the horse springs alternately from one diagonal pair 
 of feet to the other, as, right front and left hind to left front and 
 right hind. 
 
 117. The gallop. — The gallop is a three-beat gait, in which the horse 
 springs into the air from one front foot and has all four feet off 
 the ground at the same time. The diagonal hind foot is the first to 
 strike the ground, then the other hind and its diagonal front strike 
 simultaneously, and last the foot from which the spring was made. 
 
 118. The pace. — The j^ace is a two-beat gait with a lateral move- 
 ment, in which the horse springs alternately from one lateral pair 
 of feet to the other, as, right front and right hind to left front and 
 left hind. The feet as a rule are not lifted as high as in the trot. 
 
 If the horse shows a tendency to pace, shoe as follows : . 
 
 First method. — Preparation of the feet normal. In front, use a 
 medium-weight shoe (PL XXIX. fig. 2), well rolled at the toe. For 
 the hind feet use normal preparation and shoes. 
 
 Second method. — Preparation of the feet normal. Use a heel 
 weight shoe (PL XXVIII, fig. 2), and roll the toe. For the hind 
 feet use normal preparation and shoes. 
 
 A confirmed pacer can very rarely be converted into a trotter by 
 shoeing. He has no place in the service. 
 
 119. The single-foot.— The single-foot is a four-beat gait, in which 
 the feet leave and strike the ground in the order, left front, right 
 hind, right front, left hind. In front the action is high, with a 
 short forward extension. Behind, it is low, with an outward swing 
 to the feet. 
 
 A single-footer may be induced to trot by shoeing as follows : 
 
 In front: Prepare the feet leaving the toes a trifle long. Shoe 
 with heavy toe-weight shoes (PI. XXVIII, fig. 1). 
 
 Behind: Preparation and shoe normal. 
 
 As an aid to induce the single-footer to take the trot it is best to 
 start at a walk and ride the horse with a loose rein and a mild bit up 
 a gentle slope. Just as he increases the gait the rider should seize 
 one of his ears. It is found in practice that this plan distracts his 
 attention and allows the weighted shoe to produce the effect in- 
 tended. Whenever the horse returns to the single-foot, he should 
 be brought down to the walk and started again with the grasp on 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 93 
 
 the ear. This method may sometimes be found of use, but, like 
 the pacer, the single-foot horse should have no place in the service. 
 In general, when a horse has been shod to improve his gait, he 
 should be ridden with the snaffle bit, which admits of greater free- 
 dom of movement. The reins should be held with a light hand, 
 and the hoi'se should be forced up against the bit by the use of the 
 legs. 
 
 120. Faults in gaits and corrections for same. — Faults in gaits may be 
 attributed to one or more of five general causes : 
 
 ( 1 ) Improper or careless riding. 
 
 (2) Weakness or fatigue. 
 
 (3) Diseased feet or limbs. 
 
 (4) Poor conformation. 
 
 (5) Improper shoeing. 
 
 The correction for the first two cases is obvious. 
 The third case requires special treatment and pathological shoeing. 
 The fourth case can not be cured, but it may be corrected tempo- 
 rarily by special shoeing. 
 
 The fifth case can be corrected by proper shoeing. 
 
 121. Various positions and conditions of the feet and their effects on 
 gaits. — Toe too long (poor conformation or faulty preparation of the 
 foot) retards the breaking over of the foot, decreases the height of 
 the action, and increases the forward extension. 
 
 Toe too short (poor conformation or faulty preparation of the 
 foot) quickens the breaking over of the foot, increases the height 
 of the action, and decreases the forward extension. 
 
 Toes turned in (poor conformation, or feet too liigh on the inside 
 quarter), causing the foot to break over on the outside of the toe 
 and inducing an outward swing in the forward extension of the foot. 
 
 Toes turned out (poor conformation, or feet too high on the out- 
 side quarter), causing the foot to break over on the inside of the toe 
 and inducing an inward swing in the forward extension of the foot. 
 
 122. Forging. — Forging or clicking is a fault in gait at the walk or 
 trot, in which the shoe of a hind foot overtakes and strikes the bottom 
 of a front foot on the same side. 
 
 It occurs far more frequently at the trot than at the walk. 
 
 The clicking sound is caused by the toe of the hind shoe striking 
 against the ground surface of the front shoe, usually near the toe. 
 
 Causes. — This fault may result from one or more of many causes, 
 but. generally speaking, it is caused by too slow action of the front 
 feet as compared with that of the hind. 
 
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94 MAXUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOBRS. 
 
 The causes may be divided into two classes— tempo rary and per- 
 Tnanent. 
 
 Temporary emises. — Faulty preparation of the front feet, leaving 
 the toes too long or trimming the heels too low, using shoes that are 
 too heavy, allowing shoes to remain on too long, fatigue, debility, 
 rough ground, poor horsemanship, reins held too loosely, the horse 
 not kept up to the bit. Young horses whose muscles and gaits are 
 undeveloped are apt to forge. 
 
 Permanent causes. — Faulty conformation, such as horses with rela- 
 tively short bodies and long legs, horses that stand higher at the 
 croui^ than at the withers, and horses that stand under in front or 
 behind. 
 
 Corrections. — The general principle in\olved in the correction for 
 forging is to hasten the breaking over of the front foot and to retard 
 the breaking over of the hind foot. 
 
 Two methods are given, the fii-st being milder than the second, 
 though neither is severe. 
 
 Temporary forging can usually be corrected liy removing the 
 cause, normal preparation of the foot, and a slight modification of 
 the shoes. 
 
 First method. — For the front feet use normal preparation of the 
 feet and light-weight shoes with rolled toes (PI. XXIX, fig. 2). 
 
 For the hind feet use normal preparation of the feet and shoe 
 normally. 
 
 Permanent forging can not be permanently cured, but it may be 
 prevented temporarily. 
 
 Second method. — For the front feet, use normal ^preparation, ex- 
 cept that the wall of the toe is shortened and rounded with the rasp 
 to conform with the rocker toe shoe. 
 
 Shoe with rocker-toe shoe (PI. XXIX, fig. 1). 
 
 For the hind feet, leave the toe of the foot a trifle longer than 
 in the normal preparation, use a normal weight shoe, square the 
 toe, and set the shoe back from the toe, allowing two-thirds the 
 thickness of the wall to extend over the edge of the shoe. This pro- 
 jection of the Avail must be slightly rounded off after the shoe has 
 been secured to the foot in order to prevent chipping. 
 
 INTERFERINi:. 
 
 123. Interfering is a fault in gait in which the horse strikes any 
 part of a leg from the coronet to the knee in front, and to the fetlock 
 behind, with the shoe or foot of the opposite leg. 
 
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MANUAL, FOE AEMY HOKSBSHOERS. 95 
 
 The striking usually occurs at the inside of the fetlock joint, and 
 more often in the hind legs that in the front. Lameness frequently 
 results from such injuries. 
 
 Causes. — The causes may be divided into two classes — temforary 
 and permanent. 
 
 Temporary causes. — Faulty preparation of the feet ; usually trim- 
 ming the inner wall too low, which throws the fetlocks in (broken 
 m) : failure to remove large wings or flares on the inner quarters; 
 fitting the shoe too full on the inner quarters and rough or careless 
 clinching, allowing the nailheads to protrude below the shoes ; using 
 too heavy shoes; fatigue, especially in young horses whose muscles 
 and gaits are undeveloped and in horses during convalesence from 
 debilitating diseases. 
 
 Permanent causes. — Faulty conformation, found in horses that toe 
 out behind (cow hocked) and in horses with narrow chests that toe 
 out in front (splay footed). 
 
 Horses with normal conformation that have correct standing posi- 
 tions and are properly shod do not interfere. 
 
 Corrections. — The general principle involved in correction for 
 interfering is to increase the clearance between the limbs by remov- 
 ing any rough or projecting surface on the inside of the foot or shoe 
 and by inducing the feet to break oA'er at the center of the toes, thereby 
 reducing lateral swing. 
 
 The temporary causes can be removed by proper preparation of the 
 feet, levelling, using the proper weight shoes, renioA'ing large wings 
 or flares, smoothing rough clinches, rounding the edge of the shoe 
 and fitting it close at the inner quarter, seating the nailheads well into 
 the shoe. 
 
 It is often of advantage to bevel the ground surface of the inner 
 branch of the shoe by hot rasj^ing, and then rasp the nailheads to 
 conform with the bevel after the shoe has been secured to the foot. 
 
 The permanent causes may be counteracted temporarily by special 
 shoeing, but when the special shoe is removed the fault will almost 
 invariably return. 
 
 For mild (■;ises use the lateral e.rtension toe ,thoe (PI. XXVIII, 
 fig. 6). This shoe will cause the foot to lireak ovei- toward the out- 
 side and will tend to straighten the action. 
 
 For aggravated cases use the Interfering shoe (PI. XX"\T^II, 
 fig. 3). This shoe will raise the foot on the inside toe and cause the 
 horse to stand slightly toeing in and at the same time will throw the 
 168670°— 20— —7. 
 
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96 MANUAL, FOB AKMY HORSESHOBRS. 
 
 fetlocks out. When he moves, the breaking over will be at the centei- 
 of the toe. 
 
 124. Stumbling. — Stumbling is a fault in gait in which the horse 
 fails to raise the foot sufRciently to clear the ground. It occurs 
 either in breaking over, \v the forward extension, or in planting 
 the foot. 
 
 It results from one or more of many causes. 
 
 The causes may be di^'ided into two classes — temporary and perma- 
 nent. 
 
 Temporary causes. — Fatigue, induced by long marching and car- 
 rying or iDulling heavy loads : faulty preparation of the foot, toe too 
 long ; faulty shoeing, shoes k)o heavy or fitted too full at the toe ; lazi- 
 ness, particularly when going down hill ; rough ground ; and poor 
 horsemanshijj. Young horses whose muscles and gaits are undevel- 
 oped are apt to stumble. 
 
 Permanent causes. — Poor conformation, horses with light fore 
 and heavy hind quarters, and horses with stiff shoulders. 
 
 Diseases of the feet and limbs frequently cause stumbling, such as 
 navicular disease, contracted feet, corns, thrush, sand cracks, side- 
 bone, ringbone, sprained muscles, contracted tendons and ligaments, 
 also weakness during convalescence from debilitating diseases. 
 
 Corrections. — The general principle is to remove the cause by 
 proper care and handling of the horse and bj' correct shoeing. 
 
 For stumbling in front feet, use normal preparation and shoe 
 with light-weight rocker toe shoes (PI. XXIX, fig. 1). 
 
 For stumbling behind, use normal preparation of the feet and 
 light-weight shoes with low heel calks. 
 
 If the stumbling is a result of diseased feet, a shoe must be used 
 that will tend to cure the disease in combination with the rocker 
 toe; as, for example, a foot affected with corns or contracted feet 
 must be shod with a bar shoe made with a rocker toe (PI XX^"II 
 fig. 1; PI. XXIX, fig. 1). 
 
 For aggravated cases of stumbling, a shoe with low heel calks 
 provided with a bar and rocker toe may be used for the fore feet. 
 
 125. Paddling.— Paddling is a fault in gait in which the breaking 
 over of the foot occurs at the outside of the toe and the foot is 
 carried in an outward circle during the forward extension. It is 
 confined principally to the front limbs and occurs most frequently 
 in horses with wide breasts and turned-in toes. 
 
 Causes. — Faulty conformation. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOEES. 
 
 97 
 
 C orrection. — No known method of shoeing will cure a confirmed 
 case of paddling. 
 
 In mihl cases, or when a young horse shows a tendency to paddle, 
 the following method of shoeing may be beneficial : Normal prepara- 
 tion of the feet; shoe with a three-calked shoe (PI. XXVIII, fig. 4) 
 with the toe calk on the outside. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig^ 5. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 Fi': 
 
 Plate XXVIII. — Special Shoes for Gaits. 
 
 1 The Toe Weiglit Shoe. Fif:. 2. The Heel Weight Shoe. Fii:. ". Tlie Interfei-iiig 
 Shoe. Fir,; 4. The Three Calked Shoe. Fig. .5. The Square Toe Shoe. Fig. 6. The 
 Lateral Extension Toe Shoe. 
 
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98 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HOBSESHOBES. 
 
 126. The making of special shoes for gaits.— In the methods given 
 for making these shoes mention is made of various weights of shoes 
 to be used. In these cases it is not intended to prescribe the weight 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Plate XXIX. — Special Shoes for Gait.s. 
 Fig. 1. The- RorKPr Toe Sh<..>. Fi.?. 2. The Rollefl Too Shoe. 
 
 of shoe as classified in paragraj^h 55, but rather the weight ot shoe 
 which is actually light, medium, or heavy, compared 'With the shoe 
 normally worn by the horse. 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 99 
 
 These shoes are all made from the service shoe or from bar steel. 
 The methods described are for the serA'ice shoe, but will apply as well 
 for the bar. Any exceptions are specially mentioned. 
 
 127. The toe-weight shoe (PI. XXVIII, fig. 1.)— This is a shoe with 
 the inner part of the web cut away from the quarter and heels, leav- 
 ing the greatest width and weight at the toe. It may be purchased 
 machine made. 
 
 Select a heavy front shoe. Heat to a white heat and with hammer 
 and cold chisel cut awaj^ one-half of the web between the crease and 
 the inner edge. The cut extends from the heel to a point opposite 
 the second nail hole, thence obliquely to the inner edge of the shoe. 
 This cut at the toe must be made obliquely because a square cut would 
 weaken the web at that point and cause it to break after but little 
 wear. The creaser may be used instead of the cold chisel. The cut 
 edge of the web is finished b_y hot rasping. 
 
 T^Tien made from bar steel the bar is drawn out with the hammer 
 instead of by chiselling to produce the desii'ed widths of web. 
 
 The drawing takes place as the shoe is being turned. 
 
 This shoe induces a low action and a greater forward extension of 
 the foot. 
 
 128. The heel-weight shoe (PL XXVIII, fig. 2).— This is a shoe 
 with the inner part of the web cut away from the toe and quarters, 
 leaving the greatest width and weight at the heels. 
 
 Select a heavy front shoe. Proceed to cut away the web as in mak- 
 ing the toe weight, except that the oblique cuts start opposite the 
 last nail holes. 
 
 This shoe induces a higher action and lessens the forward extension 
 of the foot. Eolling the toe gives a more decided effect. 
 
 When made from bar steel, the same method is employed as in the 
 case of the toe-weight shoe. 
 
 129. The rolled-toe shoe (PL XXIX, fig. 2).— This is a shoe with 
 the toe rolled or beveled from near the inner edge of the ground sur- 
 face to the outer edge of the foot surface, the curve of the bevel be- 
 ing much greater at the outer edge of the ground surface than at the 
 inner edge. 
 
 Select a light shoe ; heat and place on the an\il, ground surface up. 
 Begin beveling at the outer edge by striking light blows with the 
 hammer along the toe of the web, and gradually working back to- 
 ward the inner edge. 
 
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100 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 This shoe increases the rapidit}- of brealiing over of the foot by 
 shortening the ground surface of the shoe at the toe and lessening 
 the labor of the flexor tendons. It increases the height of the action 
 and decreases the forward extension of the foot. 
 
 130. The rocker-toe shoe (PI. XXIX, fig. 1). — This is a shoe with 
 the toe bent, or rocked upward. The bend at the center of the toe 
 includes the outer half of the web. 
 
 Select a light-weight shoe; heat and place on the anvil, ground 
 surface up, one-half of the web at the toe extending over the front 
 edge of the anvil. Strike light blows with the hammer upon the 
 projecting web until it is bent down to an angle of 4.")° from the 
 foot surface of the shoe. Care must be taken not to draw the toe. 
 
 The shoe acts similarly to the rolled-toe shoe, but its effect is much 
 greater. 
 
 131. The square-toe shoe (PI. XX^r[II, fig. 5). —Select a light- 
 weight shoe. Heat the toe, grasp one quarter with the tongs, and 
 hold the toe across the point of the horn (similar to the method 
 shown in par. 20 for narrowing the toe), except that the welj at the 
 forward end of the crease on nearest quarter is the point in contact 
 with the anvil. Strike light blows on that part of the toe which is 
 over and beyond the horn. Reverse the shoe and repeat on the other 
 half. If properly done this will leave a square toe. Side clips may 
 be used if necessary to assist the nails in preventing the shoe from 
 shifting on the foot. 
 
 This shoe gives better support to the foot when approaching the 
 breaking-over point and increases slightly the rapidity of breaking 
 over. On account of its reduced length the shoe does not cover the 
 whole bearing surface of the wall at the toe. 
 
 Used behind, in a case of forging, this i^rojection deadens the sound 
 of clicking. 
 
 132. The lateral extension toe shoe (PL XXVIII, fig. 6). — This is 
 a shoe with a squared toe which extends obliquely from an angular 
 extension on the inside toe to just forward of the first nail hole on 
 the outside toe. 
 
 Select a light shoo ; heat the toe and place across the horn of the 
 anvil so that the inner edge of the web at the toe fits close to the 
 horn. Strike light blows directly over the toe to slightly thicken the 
 wel). This thickening of the web will give sufficient material for 
 drawing out the extension. Place the shoe on the face of the anvil, 
 foot surface up, and strike light blows on the web between the center 
 
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MANUAL FOE ARMY HOESESHOERS. 101 
 
 of the toe and the first nail hole on the inside, drawing out an angular 
 extension about one-eighth of an inch wide at the point. Finish by 
 hot rasjjing. The hot rasping must be more vigorous as it ap- 
 proaches the first nail hole on the outside toe, so that the finished shoe 
 will be widest at the extension and narrowest at the opposite side of 
 the toe. 
 
 This shoe causes the foot to break over at the center of the toe and 
 to extend forward in a straight line. 
 
 133. The interfering shoe (PI. XXVIII, fig. 3) .—This is a shoe with 
 a low calk near the toe on the inside. 
 
 Select a shoe of light weight, and a calk one-eighth of an inch 
 high and about 1 inch long. Weld on the calk to the ground sur- 
 face of the inner web, close to the crease, extending from just in front 
 of the first nail hole to the second nail hole and parallel to the web. 
 
 This shoe raises the inside of the toe slightly, producing a toe-in 
 effect (PI. XIX), which changes the breaking-over point of the foot 
 toward the center of the toe and throws the fetlocks slightly outward, 
 thereby increasing the clearance space between the limbs. 
 
 134. The three-calked shoe (PI. XXVIII, fig. 4).— This is a shoe 
 with a low calk near the toe on the outside and calks on the heels. 
 
 It is made similarly to the interfering shoe, except that the toe 
 calk is on the outside instead of the inside, and with the addition of 
 the heel calks. The heel calks are of the same size as the toe 
 calk and are welded on about three-quarters of an inch from the 
 ends of the heels, and in the center of and running parallel to the web. 
 
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Chapter VIII. 
 
 SHOEING REFRACTORY HORSES. 
 
 135. Most horses that can be classed as refractory in shoeing have 
 been brought to this condition by improper handling when green 
 and unaccustomed to the sights and sounds of a shoeing shop. 
 
 When a young horse has been assigned to an organization, a com- 
 mon ijractice is to send him at once to the shop with instructions that 
 he be shod by quiet means if possilile, but by force if necessary. 
 
 No greater evil exists in the mounted service. It is as much our 
 duty to gradually train a young horse to submit to shoeing as it is to 
 patiently drill him to surrender to the bit and to work in the saddle 
 or harness. 
 
 Rough methods not only ruin the horse's disjjosition, but subject 
 the shoer to constant danger of injury. 
 
 136. Shoeing young horses. — The first step should be to teach the 
 young animal that raising his feet will do him no harm, and this 
 lesson should be given at the first grooming. The method of raising 
 the forefoot and the hind foot, as explained in this manual, should be 
 thoroughly understood ]>y all enlisted men and be a part of the in- 
 struction of every recruit. 
 
 When the young horse surrenders his foot, lower it again quietly 
 and pat him ; later use the brush on the soles of his feet ; next tap 
 the soles lightly with the currycomb; finally, take the shoer's posi- 
 tion and go through the same steps. This complete instruction may 
 be a matter of a day or of many days, depending upon the animal's 
 disposition, hut it should not be slighted nor hui-ried. 
 
 In the department of horsemanship at the Cavalry School the fol- 
 lowing method is used with young borses that are disposed to kick 
 when their hind legs are first handled. The hor.se is equipped with 
 a cavesson, which is held l)y the animal's trainer. .V sui-cingle is 
 ]3laced around the girth. The man that grooms the horse takes hold 
 of the surcingle with the inside hand, in C/rder to move with the 
 horse and be secure against injury. With the outside hand he strokes 
 102 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 103 
 
 the haunches and legs, gradnally workino- downward. In the mean- 
 time the trainer pats the horse on the neck, but corrects him sharply 
 with the cavesson whenever he displays temper. This method is 
 almost invariably successful. 
 
 The second step is to let the young horse grow accustomed to the 
 shop. While the horseshoer is at work on a guiet horse the young 
 horse should be led into the shop and held by the man who has been 
 grooming him and raising his feet. 
 
 The animal should not ie tied, nor should he be held by any other 
 man than the one he knows and trusts. 
 
 "^Alien the animal shows neither timidity nor excitement the sheer 
 hegins work on the feet. Frequently the removal of the surplus 
 growth of horn is all that can be accomplished without excitement 
 or resistance. At the first sign of either, work for that day should 
 lie abandoned and the horse removed from the shop. 
 
 The shock of the hammer is conveyed to the joints of the pastern 
 bones, and the green horse, startled thereby, will struggle to free his 
 foot. The shoer can usually handle a forefoot easily unassisted. 
 If a good helper holds the hind leg in a comfortable position on his 
 thigh and holds the hoof firmly with both hands, the shoer can work 
 with more certainty, the shocks of nail driving will be taken uj). 
 to a great extent, in the helper's wrists and arms, and the horse will 
 stand quietly. 
 
 Patient, quiet work will eventually succeed and thereafter each 
 shoeing is more easily completed. 
 
 137. There are, however, certain highly nervous horses in nearly 
 every organization that are refractory as a I'esult of previous bad 
 handling, and in the emergencies of active service there may be 
 insufficient time to quietly prepare new mounts for shoeing as ex- 
 plained above. 
 
 In these cases some form of restraint is required, but in each 
 instance no more force should be employed than is absolutely neces- 
 sary — fhfi. gentlest method' should he tried frst. 
 
 The cavesson, as a means of correction, will usually make a horse 
 stand still and is to be preferred to the twitch. The war bridle (par. 
 138) when properly used is an excellent method of restraint. The 
 twitch, although effectiA-e. is a brutal instrument, and should never 
 be used except upon an animal otherwise unmanageable; moreover. 
 after repeated use of the twitch the horse dreads any approach of 
 the hands to his muzzle, and can be bridled only with the greatest 
 
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104 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HOESESHOERS. 
 
 difficulty. Severe use of the twitch will also permanently disfigure 
 the animal's appearance. 
 
 138. The war bridle. — The war bridle is made of small rope, prefer- 
 ably five-sixteenths inch three-strand hemp, about 20 feet in length, 
 with a 4-inch loop at one end. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Platio XXX. — I'i;;. 1. The w;\r hridlo adjusted. Fig. 2. The war bridle. 
 
 To adjust the hrulJc. — Stand on near side of the horse; place the 
 loop in his mouth, inclosing the tongue and the lower jaw, and hold 
 it in position with the left hand. Carry the rope up on the off side, 
 over the poll and down on near cheek to about opposite the eye ; then 
 double it back over the poll, leaving a bight hanging. Pass the run- 
 ning end of rope through the mouth between the upper lip and the 
 gum, and up through the bight on near cheek, then down through the 
 lower part of the loop. Draw the bridle snug without changing the 
 position of the bight. 
 
 E-ffeH. — A pull on the rope tightens the bridle, producing pressure 
 on the poll and to a lesser degree on the mouth. This has a very 
 strong moral effect on the horse and induces him to stand quietly. 
 
 Methods of use. — For the nervous restless horse that will not stand 
 to be shod: A helper holds the rope, standing close to the horse's 
 head and on the same side with the shoer. When the horse attempts 
 to move or pull his foot away a few light pulls on the rope will 
 quickly quiet him. The helper should use his voice in the quieting. 
 When the horse stands quietly the rope is held loosely. Whenever 
 he moves again, light pulls and the voice will quiet him. 
 
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MANUAL FOK ARMY HORSESHOERS. 105 
 
 For the timid untrained horse and for the refractory or vicious 
 horse : These horses can not be bridled and taken immediately to 
 the shop for shoeing. A certain amount of preliminary training 
 ■will be necessary to educate and accustom them to the use and 
 effect of the bridle. This preliminary training will extend over a 
 period of time, depending upon the tractability of the horse, but 
 usually three or four days will be sufficient. The following system 
 of lessons is recommended as being suitable in the majority of cases. 
 
 These lessons should be given daily and for one-hour periods. 
 
 First day. — With the horse in the stable or corral, quietly and with- 
 out hurry put on the bridle and allow him to become familiar with it. 
 
 Second day. — Repeat the first lesson and then take a position in 
 front of the horse and out of striking distance from the front feet, 
 holding the rope in both hands. A helper with a light smooth pole 
 (preferably bamboo), about 6 feet in length, slowly and quietly 
 places the pole on the neck of the horse close to the withers, and 
 lightly passes it around all parts of the body and legs. If the horse 
 submits fjuietly to this, the assistant then attempts to stroke all parts 
 of the horse's body with the hand in much the same manner as with 
 the pole. If the horse becomes unruly or kicks; the man handling 
 the bridle must stop it quickly by a sharp pull on the rope. Through- 
 out the lesson both men should try to soothe the horse by gently 
 patting and talking to him, and refrain from excitement or hurry 
 in any of the movements. 
 
 Third day. — This lesson should be given in the shoeing shop. Re- 
 peat the first and second lessons, and then slowly and quietly pick 
 up the feet and tap lightly with the shoeing hammer. 
 
 Allow the horse to remain in the shop in company with other 
 horses for a few hours to become accustomed to the surroundings. 
 
 Fourth day. — The horse is now ready for shoeing, and can be han- 
 dled as described above for the nervous horse. 
 
 ReBultn.—"\:\\^ war In-idle not only makes it possible to shoe a re- 
 fractory horse without difficulty, but if used propei-ly it produces a 
 lasting beneficial effect on the horse. The gentling given him in 
 connection with the moral effect of the bridle usually remains with 
 the horse, and he is quieter and more submissive as a result of the 
 experience. 
 
 Great care must be taken in using the irar hridle. Used properly 
 it is excellent, but it is a very powerful instrument and capable of 
 doing considerable damage if used improperly. Only such force 
 
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106 MAKUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 should be used as is absolutely necessary. When the horse submits 
 or relaxes, in the slightest degree, the rope must be immediately re- 
 laxed also to reward him and relieve him from pain. 
 
 This bridle has been used extensively at the Cavalry School Shoe- 
 ing Shop and with such success that it has entirely replaced the 
 shoeing stocks and the twitch to control horses. 
 
 It is not always so effective with mules. On some mules it will 
 have the same effect as on the horse; on others the twitch must be 
 resorted to. On account of the lasting good effects, however, it is 
 best to try the war bridle on the mule before using the twitch. 
 
 The blind is often found to be of considerable assistance in quiet- 
 ing animals, especially mules. 
 
 139. If it should become necessary to tie up an animal's foot the 
 rigging described below should be used. 
 
 THE HOBBLE. 
 
 The surcingle. — Two .'5-inch rings are sewed on the outside of the 
 issue surcingle and are so placed that when the surcingle is adjusted 
 the rings will hang down in the position of the (]uarterstrap rings of 
 a saddle. 
 
 A rope I inch in diameter and about 20 feet long; an eye-splice 
 should be made at one end. 
 
 This rigging can be easily made in any organization. For use in 
 the field the rope is replaced by a lariat. The cuff and surcingle 
 together weigh only ^ pounds .5 ounces, and can readily be packed 
 in a saddlebag. 
 
 TO RAISE A FOREFOOT. 
 
 140. Place the hobble around the pastern, the rings above the heels. 
 Pass an end of the rope through the rings and pass both ends over 
 the horse's back to a helper. 
 
 The horse's head, as usual, should be held by the man that orooms 
 and trains the animal. 
 
 This man should stand on the side of the foot to be raised in order 
 to avoid injury if the horse strikes. 
 
 The shoer gently but forcibly Hexes the knee and raises the foot, 
 while the helper takes in the slack of the doul)]ed rope. If the horse 
 is fractious, the helper passes Ijoth ends through the ring on his side. 
 Grasping the rope close under the surcingle ring with the hand 
 
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MANUAL, FOR AEMY HOESESHOERS. 
 
 107 
 
 nearest the horse's head, and holding the ends securely ugainst the 
 hip in the other hand, the helper is secure against injury, can move 
 with the horse and control the slack to the best advantao-e. 
 
 Plate XXXI. — Raisixc; Feont Foot of REPRArTORV Hoese ; 
 
 Method. 
 
 Hind Foot, First 
 
 If a heli^er is not available, the shoer secures one end of the rope 
 to the D rings (by the eye or by a knot) , passes the other end through 
 the surcingle ring on his own side and, after raising the foot, ties a 
 half hitch. 
 
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108 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOEES. 
 
 TO KAISE A HIND TOOT. 
 (FiKST Method.) 
 
 141. Place the hobble around the pastern, the rings above the heels. 
 Draw the horse's tail to one side and make a loop in it; fasten one 
 end of the rope in the loop by a " single sheet bend." Pass the other 
 end through the D rings and draw it to the rear, where it is held by 
 helpers. The horse is tied, but the head is held as usual. When 
 the shoer raises the foot, the helpers draw in the slack of the rope 
 and the foot is supported (by the animal himself) in a good position 
 for work. If he kicks he can do no harm, as his foot must move 
 along the rope. After one or two such efforts he will ordinarily 
 stand quiet. 
 
 If helpers are not available, the end of the rope may be secured 
 to a post or tree, but must be fastened in a manner to permit of 
 promjDt release in case of a protracted struggle, during which the 
 horse might throw himself and be injured. 
 
 Mr. Churchill, instructor in shoeing, used this device for 14 years 
 in civilian practice Avith unfailing success. (See PI. XXXI.) 
 
 TO RAISE A HIND FOOT. 
 
 (Second JIethod. ) 
 
 142. Place the hobble around the pastern, the rings to the front. 
 Put the surcingle around the neck in front of the shoulders, loosely, 
 so that it will not bind and choke the animal. Make the rope fast 
 in a ring on the sui-cingle, pass the free end through the rings on the 
 hobble and back through the ring on the surcingle, and draw the foot 
 forward and upward. This is an inconvenient position of the foot 
 for an inexperienced workman, but it prevents the animal from 
 kicking and guards both the animal and the shoer from injury. 
 With a little care the animal can be quickly and properly shod. 
 
 If the rigging is not at hand use a 1-inch or 1^-inch rope, prefer- 
 ably the latter size, as smaller rope is apt to burn the animal. Make 
 a loose collar with a short piece of rope, pass a loop of a long rope 
 around the pastern and draw the foot up as described above. If only 
 one piece of rope is available and it is not desired to cut it, tie a 
 bowline loosely around the neck, pass the end of the rope around the 
 pastern and through the bowline, and proceed as above. In using a 
 rope without the cuff' the shoer should raise the foot and adjust the 
 
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MANUAL, FOB ARMY HORSESHOEES. 
 
 109 
 
 Plate XXXII. — HoKsu in Stocks, 
 
 Plate XXXIII. — Hauness foe Theowing Hoe.se. 
 
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110 
 
 MANUAL FOR ARMY HORSESHOEKS. 
 
 rope in the hollow of the pastern while an a:,sistant takes up the 
 slack; if the foot is raised by means of the rope alone, even a large 
 rope running through the hollow of the pastern is apt to bum. 
 
 Plate XXXIV. — Thkowikg the Hobse fou Shoeing. 
 
 143. When it is found that a horse is so vicious that it is dangerous 
 to shoe hun unless he is rendered helpless, two courses are open. 
 One is to put him in the stocks ; the other is to throw him and tie him 
 down. 
 
 The latter method is a laat ir-xort, to be used only when quieter 
 methods have been tried and proved unsatisfactory. 
 
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MANUAL, FOR ARMY HOESESHOEES. Ill 
 
 The harness used in the farriers' branch of this school to throw 
 horses for minor operations has been found to answer the purpose 
 and does not harm the horse. Throwing and " hog tying " a horse 
 without other appliances than a rope should be avoided, as this 
 method usually burns the horse badly and has been known to result 
 in permanent injury. 
 
 The throwing harness (PI. XXXIII) consists of: 
 
 (1) Bellyband with snap hooks for front hobbles. 
 
 (2) Breast strap with suspending neck strap. 
 
 (3) Saddle pad with crossed ropes, each 20 feet long. 
 (4 and 5) Front hobbles. 
 
 (6 and 7) Hind hobbles. 
 
 (8) Check strap, used to connect the saddle pad with halter crown 
 strap. 
 
 The harness is shown in detail in the illustration. The scale of 
 inches will enable any good saddler to manufacture it accurately, 
 and Plate XXXIV also shows clearly the manner in which it should 
 be adjusted and used. 
 168670°— 20 8 
 
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Chapter IX. 
 
 FIELD EXPEDIENTS AND PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 144. Shoeing has been described in this book under the assumption 
 that all of the necessary tools, fuel, shoes, and other supplies were 
 available. This will not always be the case. 
 
 In the field, shoeing equipment is usually limited, and at times 
 may be reduced to practically nothing. This must not prevent the 
 horseshoer from keeping his horses shod. Except under very un- 
 usual conditions of roads, horses must be shod if they are to be 
 worked. The shoer must use his ingenuity, utilizing any implement 
 or means at hand to accomplish the purpose, and it may be safely 
 stated that he can accomplish it by one means or another. The de- 
 gree of his success, however, will depend upon his ingenuity and 
 his will to do the job. 
 
 If a forge be lacking, the fire can be built on the ground. Wood, 
 corncobs, buffalo chips, practically any kind of inflammable material, 
 can be used instead of coal to produce a cherry red heat which is 
 sufficient for shaping the shoe and cutting off the heels. In place of 
 the anvil, a piece of iron pipe, or steel rail, or even a block of w^ood 
 can be used. Wire cutters can be substituted for the pinchers, the 
 shoeing knife for the rasp, and a horseshoe will serve as a clinching 
 block. There are so many substitutes for the driving hammer that 
 it is needless to mention any. 
 
 If a forge or other fire is available for only a limited time, the 
 most advantageous use that can be made of it is to obtain heat for 
 cutting off the heels, opening the toes, and making a bend to the 
 quarters. The shoer can prepare many shoes in that manner in an 
 hour, and later complete the fitting " cold." Shoeing can be done 
 " cold " completely, except cutting off the heels. 
 
 In Mexiqo, after an exceptionally hard march in the mountains 
 (110 miles in 43 hours), the toes of all the horseshoes in a certain 
 troop were practically cut through. There were no shoeing tools. 
 112 
 
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MANUAL FOR ARMY HOKSESHOERS. 113 
 
 The whole troop was reshod that night with the assistance of wire 
 cutters and stones. i 
 
 145. To sharpen the rasp. — To resharpen the rasp is an economical 
 measure at any time, greatly prolonging the usefulness of the rasp, 
 but it is particularly applicable to field service where supply is 
 difficult. 
 
 The following method is suggested: Remove the temper from the 
 teeth on the coarse side by holding the rasp over the fire above the 
 coals with the coarse side down. When the teeth commence to show 
 color, remove from the fire and allow to cool slowly. When cool, 
 place the rasp in the vise with the coarse side up. Take a flat mill file 
 and run lightly over the points of the teeth to insure uniformity in 
 length. Next, with an 8-inch three-cornered saw file, the teeth are 
 pointed (sharpened) by running the file at a right angle across the 
 rasp on the front side of the teeth, and completed by filing lightly on 
 the back of the teeth. After completing the filing reheat the teeth 
 to a cherry red heat (holding the rasp above the fire, coarse side 
 down), and cool quickly by immersing the rasp in water. (Any 
 small file will serve in place of the above.) 
 
 146. Important field measures. — IVhen troops go into the field, one 
 front and one hind fitted shoe with 24 nails for each animal should 
 be included in the equipment of his rider or driver. If possible, 
 an extra supply of shoes and nails should be carried on the supplj' 
 wagons. 
 
 On the march, officers and noncommissioned officers and the riders 
 and drivers of all animals should be constantly on the lookout for 
 loose or cast shoes ; any animal requiring attention should be removed 
 from the column and attended to immediately, unless the exigencies 
 of the march prevent. By these careful measures many animals 
 Avill be saved which, if compelled to continue the march unshod, 
 would be rendered unserviceable. 
 
 After a march the feet of each animal should be inspected by the 
 responsible officer and by the horseshoer as soon as possible after 
 reaching camp; all animals whose feet are found to be in need of 
 attention from any cause should be attended to with the least possible 
 delay. 
 
 In case no shoe is available, the animal may be enabled to continue 
 the march temporarily by the use of a piece of canvas, leather, gunny 
 sack, or hide used as a covering to protect the foot. 
 
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114 MANUAL, FOR ARMY HORSESHOERS. 
 
 147. To obtain speed in shoeing. — When the shoer has mastered the 
 principles of shoeing as set forth in this text and has become fairly 
 skillful in the art of shoeing, the following method will assist him 
 to save time and obtain speed : 
 
 The work is divided into four operations — preparation of the feet, 
 fitting the shoes, nailing on the shoes, and clinching, each operation 
 being taken up in order and completed for all four feet before the 
 next is begun. 
 
 In fitting the shoes, heat two at a time (fronts then hinds), and 
 when fitted mark each shoe with the hammer so that it may be 
 recognized later for nailing on. 
 
 Fitting one shoe at a time and then nailing it on to the foot allows 
 the fire to die down and much time is lost in rebuilding it. 
 
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