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 A summer journey to Brazil 
 
 3 1924 019 989 247 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924019989247 
 
MAP OF TWO HtMlSI'HERES. 
 
A SUMMER JOURNEY 
 TO BRAZIL 
 
 By Alice R. Humphrey 
 
 " To the general American public Brazil is a terra incognita. 
 Less is known of it than of Asia, Africa, the distant islands 
 of the sea, or even of the North Pole." 
 
 " I asked no other thing, 
 No other was denied. 
 I ofEered Being for it ; 
 The mighty merchant smiled. 
 
 Brazil? He twirled a button, 
 Without a glance my way : 
 ' But, madam, is there nothing else 
 That we can show to-day ? ' " 
 
 Emily Dickinson. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 BONNELL, SILVER & CO 
 
 LONDON : 4 TRAFALGAR SQUARE 
 1900 
 
Copyright, 1900, by 
 BoNNELL, Silver & Co. 
 
 j^Il rights reser'ved 
 
 
 Press of E. Scott Co., New York 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 FAOE 
 
 New York to Lisbon 1 
 
 Two Weeks in Tropical Seas 11 
 
 Pernambuco 20 
 
 Two Beautiful Bays 26 
 
 Petropolis 40 
 
 Santos and Some Brazilians 51 
 
 Consular Service at Santos 65 
 
 The City of Sao Paulo 72 
 
 Homeward Bound 96 
 
 Appendix. 
 
 An American System of Schools 102 
 
 Religious Instruction in Schools 112 
 
 Facts about Brazil 118 
 
 The Samaritan Hospital 122 
 
 Brazilian Naval Revolt Ended by U. S. Pro- 
 tection of her own Merchant Ships 124 
 
 Roman Catholic Church in Brazil as a State 
 
 Church and as Related to Protestantism. . . 141 
 
 1864 and 1900 147 
 
 John T. Mackenzie 148 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ■PAGK 
 
 Map of Two Hemispheres 1 
 
 Place du Commerce, Lisbon C 
 
 Harbor, St. Vincent, Cape Verd Islands 14 
 
 Cable Station, St. Vincent 16 
 
 Reef, Pemambuco 20 
 
 President of Brazil. — Wife of President 82 
 
 Docks and Arsenal, Rio de Janeiro 34 
 
 Petropolis 4d ■ 
 
 Alley of Palms 48 
 
 Map of the State of Sao Paulo 50 
 
 Railway Station, Santos 52 
 
 Hotel and Park, Guaruja 62 
 
 Mackenzie College 6d 
 
 Government Normal School Building 82 
 
 Coffee Picking 05 
 
 Coffee Washing 9S 
 
 Coffee Drying lOfJ 
 
 Blacks of Bahia 120 
 
PREFACE 
 
 Experiences indicated in these pages are 
 not merely incidental and exceptional but 
 prove by repeated journeys to be really 
 characteristic. 
 
 We first visited the Empire of Brazil 
 when Dom Pedro was at his best ; then in 
 the critical period following the revolution ; 
 last when the era of discord had culminated 
 and the first civilian President was peace- 
 fully elected. The short but severe appren- 
 ticeship in self government transformed a 
 Latin Empire into a settled Republic in 
 eight years. Now for three years the rapid 
 advance in things which pertain to " life, 
 liberty and the pursuit of happiness," has 
 been so quiet and steady as to pass unnoticed. 
 
 The eleven years' history of this sister 
 Republic is full of hope for Porto Rico, 
 Cuba and the Philippines. The New York 
 Evening Post, June a6th, 1900, says: 
 " Under republican institutions individual 
 
effort has been stimulated and rapid develop- 
 ment has gone forward in the wilds of the 
 Amazon as it has in the coast regions of 
 Brazil." But nearly six years of military gov- 
 ernment were necessary before it was practica- 
 ble to elect a civilian President. 
 
 The English expectation of a collapse of 
 a Brazilian Republic was not given up until 
 about 1896. 
 
 Great Britain's equipment for ruling other 
 nations is so far in advance of the United 
 States that any thought of our copying her 
 methods is as absurd as it would be to 
 expect England to set up a self-governing 
 Republic. The St. James Gazette of June 
 26th, 1900 expresses the opinion that China 
 is " teaching America the impossibility of a 
 great trading nation avoiding Imperialism," 
 and adds " America's experience will teach 
 her that it is not the desire to grab distant 
 lands, but unavoidable destiny that drives 
 Great Britain ever forward. Washington 
 has no choice but to protect the imperilled 
 American citizens and having once inter- 
 fered in China to protect her interests she 
 will never be able to shake from her shoes 
 
the dust of the Celestial Empire." When 
 Edwin H. Conger was Minister to Brazil 
 the United States in protecting American 
 shipping ended the Brazilian Republic's 
 most serious revolt. But the United States 
 interference in Brazilian affairs went no 
 further. 
 
 Little as the United States has otherwise 
 done for Brazil the expressed feeling is 
 " Our greatest wish is to model the new 
 Brazilian Republic according to the Consti- 
 tution of the United States and to develop 
 and consolidate our friendship and com- 
 mercial relations with that incomparable 
 Nation." 
 
 H. M. H. 
 
 PLAINFIELD, N. J. 
 AUGUST, 1900. 
 
A SUMMER JOURNEY TO 
 BRAZIL. 
 
 NEW YORK TO LISBON. 
 
 FrvE winters in succession without one 
 summer is an experience which I recall with 
 pleasure these hot days ! How did I manage 
 it? Just crossed the equator to Brazil in 
 May, back to New York in November, down 
 to Brazil in May again and back once more 
 in October. 
 
 Many people " who loved geography when 
 they were young " have still no realizing 
 sense of the reversal of the seasons south of 
 the equator, and do not know how interesting 
 a voyage they might easily make if they went 
 " up and down in the world," instead of 
 going around it. 
 
2 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Everybody who is fortunate enough to 
 have the money to do it has treated himself 
 or some of his family to a trip around the 
 world, and missionaries and commercial men 
 have added to the list until we aU speak with 
 familiarity of life and travels in China and 
 Japan, India and Egypt ; but what American 
 ever started for a pleasure trip to the southern 
 half of his own hemisphere ! Why not ? 
 
 I have gone there by two different ways, 
 and for variety recommend them both. 
 Suppose you go in May — as you can most 
 comfortably and with the largest number of 
 new experiences — by way of the American 
 Line to Southampton, England ; thence, 
 sailing from that same Southampton harbor, 
 to Rio de Janeiro by the English Royal Mail 
 Line. You find yourself leaving England 
 in a good-sized, well-built steamer named 
 for some river, " Nile," " Danube," " Mag- 
 dalena," or " Clyde,"— let us say the " Nile," 
 — and evidently made for different seas from 
 the North Atlantic. Your cabin may be 
 7 X 10 feet, its walls on the gangway made of 
 slats like blinds slightly open for ventilation ; 
 
NEW YORK TO LISBON. 3 
 
 and tlie wide decks covered with permanent 
 awnings suggest a summer veranda. This 
 line of steamers makes the trip from England 
 to Buenos Ayres in twenty-four days, and 
 winter and summer they must heat the 
 cabins at one end of the trip for the comfort 
 of the passengers •; for at one end it is winter 
 if at the other you find summer. You will 
 arrive at Rio de Janeiro at the end of seven- 
 teen days. 
 
 Out of the English Channel, stopping at 
 Cherbourg for a few passengers from Paris, 
 across the Bay of Biscay, it takes from 
 Friday morning till Sunday to reach the 
 quaint Spanish harbor of Vigo. Perhaps, 
 so far, there wiU have been in the ship's 
 company one or two wine merchants who 
 now leave for Oporto. Here you will receive 
 your first instalment of emigrants, Spanish 
 peasants, going to the Argentine Republic, 
 the women with black hair and eyes and the 
 most brilliant colors in their clothes. They 
 may have nothing on their feet but their 
 heads will be tied in kerchiefs, suggestive of 
 a tulip-bed for hues. 
 
4 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 You wish with your careful American 
 training that a dignified old English steam- 
 ship line would not regularly plan to spend 
 that first Sunday in such a heathenish 
 port, loading and unloading freight and 
 taking on such irreligious-looking passengers. 
 There is no service for you but what you 
 make for yourself, and you look on with a 
 painful sense that the great outside world is 
 different from your gentle home, and go 
 down to your room and get your Bible and 
 try to think while the hoisting apparatus 
 outside is lifting bumping boxes out of 
 lighters and creaking them down into the 
 hold, and scores of little boats full of 
 Spanish vendors are screaming their fruits 
 and earthenware or helping their poor 
 countrymen into the steerage of your ship. 
 
 You wonder if " Boss Tweed " really en- 
 joyed life here up to the time when Nast's 
 cartoon strayed into the town and inspired 
 the authorities to report the discovered 
 " child-stealer." 
 
 One lesson you may learn from the foreign 
 conditions of the day — to sympathize more 
 
NEW YORK TO LISBON. 5 
 
 sensitively with the daily life of our Lord 
 spent among people who did not think as 
 He did. 
 
 One day more and you anchor off Lisbon. 
 Of course you wUl make one of a party with 
 some of your shipmates, hire a boat and go 
 ashore, a mile or more of rowing or sailing. 
 How pretty the cream-colored city looks in 
 her green palms ! and how substantial the 
 great stone quays ! You hire a guide and 
 go to drive. You get an impression of 
 ornate public buildings and memorial statues, 
 of narrow business streets with numberless 
 insignificant shops, of the broader avenues 
 of thick-walled, stuccoed, gay-colored resi- 
 dences, standing low and square in heavy 
 shrubberies,, of the Botanical Garden which 
 no well regulated Portuguese city could be 
 without and which here lies on the brow of 
 a hill looking over the town ; and now you 
 know you must have your luncheon, and 
 find a good one at a hotel. The semi-trop- 
 ical life is comfortable behind " the Vene- 
 tians," and you have been getting glimpses 
 of pretty courts through open corridors. 
 
6 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Now you must try to think what best use 
 you can make of the remaining hour before 
 you must cross the Place du Commerce, or 
 Black Horse Square as the English call it, 
 looking out on the harbor and surrounded 
 the other three sides by government offices 
 and custom-house, with spacious arcades, a 
 triumphal arch, and bronze statue of Joseph 
 I., then pick your way down the wet stone 
 steps to the little boat which wiU row you 
 out to your ship. 
 
 But where shall you go for one hour f 
 Down to the dirty, narrow, old, Moorish 
 quarter ? No. Out to the church and palace 
 of Belem buUt on the site whence Vasco de 
 Gama embarked in 1500, and now contain- 
 ing the tombs of that explorer and of the 
 great poet, Camoens (whom many readers 
 will also connect with Macao, China). No 
 that's too far and too interesting for a 
 mere hour. So is its neighboring tower in 
 which the peerages of Portugal and her 
 colonies are kept, and which looked so 
 picturesque from the steamer, Moorish archi- 
 tecture in yellow brick. Can you go to see 
 
NEW YORK TO LISBON. 7 
 
 what the irreverent traveler calls " the dried 
 kings " in the fine church of San Vicente de 
 Fora, where you may see the remains of 
 royalty of the line of Braganza preserved in 
 glass coffins ? Can you go to the beautiful 
 suburb of Cintra, the summer resort of the 
 nobiUty, the favorite of the English resi- 
 dents ? No, it is fourteen miles away, 
 through orange groves, and up, up from 
 two to three thousand feet. 
 
 I remember when we were seeing the 
 sights of Lisbon we had one very entertaining 
 man in our little party who proved to be an 
 American missionary in Brazil. He had 
 been over this ground before, and seemed 
 never to forget anything. He told us the 
 story of a Lady Bountiful, blessing the 
 poor with her generosity, no other than 
 our old fellow-countrywoman of Woman's 
 Rights' fame, Victoria WoodhuU, now mar- 
 ried and living near Lisbon. Indeed she is 
 a very great lady, said the tale, and very 
 gracious to American visitors. 
 
 But no ! It would require too much 
 time to see any sights more than the mar- 
 
8 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 velous pictures of three scenes in the life 
 of our Lord, done in Borne in mosaic after 
 Raphael, Michael Angelo and Guido Beni, 
 which we find in a small chapel in the 
 church of San Boque in the heart of the 
 city. About 1740 King John V. had this 
 alcove or chapel made in Borne. He was a 
 devoted Bomanist, had been enriched by the 
 discovery of the gold and diamond mines of 
 Brazil, so this could be very costly in 
 mosaic, bronze, porphyry, lapis lazuli, etc. 
 It was set up in St. Peter's in Bome and 
 the Pope celebrated the first mass in it, 
 then it became one of the treasures of 
 Lisbon. 
 
 And now you are again on the ship. 
 You look at beautiful Lisbon and know 
 that if it had not been for Brazil you would 
 never have seen it. It has been so easily 
 reached from England on this steamer, but 
 what an interminable journey it would 
 have been by rail ! Spain seems far enough 
 away when one is traveling " on the Con- 
 tinent," but Portugal ! Indeed, this enter- 
 prising, seafaring, colonizing country of 
 
NEW YORK TO LISBON. 9 
 
 three hundred years ago is nearly forgotten. 
 How many know now that her sailors named 
 Formosa (beautiful) as they found its lovely 
 shores, or think to trace her hand on every 
 Continent ! 
 
 But the anchor is being drawn up and 
 you feel like old residents on the " Nile," 
 and hardly know whether you are English 
 or Americans as you look about at the new 
 passengers, French, Portuguese, Brazilians 
 and Argentines ; for the English tongue and 
 simple brusque manners fall into slight mi- 
 nority. French clothes, which these wealthy 
 new-comers love, are well displayed by their 
 ladies, and you wiU soon be shrugging your 
 shoulders and gesticulating dramatically 
 unless you are very unsympathetic. Your 
 next meals amuse you ; for the bill-of-fare 
 which so far has had English names and 
 dishes, now caters to at least three sets of 
 people. The English get their bacon, their 
 " grilled bones," and their cold meat pies, 
 the Americans have hash (with a foreign 
 element of grease and onions which the 
 true Yankee would not own), the Portu- 
 
10 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 guese have baccalhao and feijao (codfish 
 and black beans), and plenty o£ mutton 
 stewed with carrots. What else? Good 
 soups, meats, vegetables, salads and desserts, 
 and one dish daily required by the original 
 charter of the Royal Mail Steamship Co. — 
 curry and rice ! 
 
 These people and you are to be two 
 weeks together now, in summer seas, a most 
 alfresco life. Each passenger has brought 
 a deck chair to his own taste, varying from 
 the simplest camp variety to the East Indian 
 adjustable luxury of rattan with bottle- 
 sockets in the arms and places to keep one's 
 books, field-glasses and games. 
 
TWO WEEKS IN TROPICAL SEAS. 
 
 What wiU you do with yourself during 
 the two six-day stretches from Lisbon to St. 
 Vincent of the Cape Verde Islands and 
 from St. Vincent to Pernambuco ? 
 
 You find yourself an old resident of the 
 ship now, and mean to gain some sense of 
 the real life of the people about you. The 
 passengers are clannish at table and on deck. 
 The English and Americans fall together in 
 groups according to their taste or experience. 
 The Portuguese, Brazihan and Argentine 
 elements do the same. If you speak French 
 you can converse with any of the three latter, 
 for they are not confined to their mother 
 tongues. "You Americans speak so few 
 languages," said one, once, to me with polite 
 derogation. 
 
 You soon settle into a routine. Early salt 
 bath to which your steward calls you on 
 
12 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 schedule time, a cup of black coffee, break- 
 fast at nine. Perhaps you have already been 
 on deck and greeted your fellow-passengers, 
 as they all do, " Have you slept well ? " 
 After breakfast a '' constitutional " on deck, 
 pausing now and then at the end railing to 
 look down a few feet upon the five hundred 
 steerage passengers, the common details of 
 whose lives are very public. They are nearly 
 all barefooted, fearfully dirty, and you 
 gratefully watch the ship's doctor going 
 among them with energetic disinfectants, 
 and take perhaps your first lesson in seeing 
 English officers control the ignorant and 
 unclean Latin. Your admiration rises ; for 
 their discipline is perfect even of this tempo- 
 rary charge. The "Nile " carries a thousand 
 souls. Among those poor steerage people 
 there are nearly always deaths at sea, but all 
 is managed with quietness and consideration, 
 and you probably will not know when the 
 sorrowful burials take place. 
 
 You have had your walk, or your ener- 
 getic game of ring-toss or shuffle-board, and 
 sit down to rest and read, when up comes a 
 
TWO WEEKS IN TROPICAL SEAS. 13 
 
 charming young English passenger and says, 
 "May I include you in our sweepstakes for 
 the ladies ? " and you may be as ignorant as 
 I and answer " Yes," in response. " Two 
 shilHngs, please ; " and your best friend will 
 explain to you that you have been betting 
 on the ship's run for the day. If you say 
 no, you will probably be the only woman on 
 the ship, rich or poor, who has no chance to 
 win, and you must be as gracious and clever 
 as you know how to make up for your 
 incomprehensible Puritanism. At 12.30 
 P. M. the ship's run is posted, and by the time 
 that excitement is over you go to luncheon. 
 At 4 o'clock comes the cozy cup of tea, 
 when perhaps some English lady will give 
 you a slice of delicious cake she has brought 
 from the famous Buzzard's in London, and 
 you wiU offer her American ginger snaps 
 crisp from the can in return. 
 
 When you left England your 7 o'clock 
 dinner not only began, but ended in broad 
 daylight. As you near the equator the days 
 shorten rapidly until at 6 o'clock you see 
 the sun at the horizon, take out your watch, 
 
14 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 in three minutes you are in darkness without 
 twilight. A week later when you land at 
 Rio de Janeiro the sun will set at 5.15 P. M. 
 You change temperature as well as the length 
 of your days. Leaving England with cool 
 weather and thick clothing, you graduate 
 yourself into the lightest of raiment soon 
 after leaving Lisbon. The water, the air 
 and the sides of your cabin all maintain a 
 temperature of 82° day and night for five or 
 six days, and you keep yourself sheltered 
 from the hotter rays of the sun. 
 
 One could easily imagine one's self a 
 guest at a summer house-party — the decks 
 some great verandas overlooking an illimitable 
 lawn of the bluest blue, so quiet is the water. 
 For dinner the gentlemen wear their dinner 
 coats, the ladies make careful toUets, and 
 EngHshmen who have lived in Lidia wear 
 dress suits of white linen with short jackets 
 and broad sashes of rich silk. 
 
 At least four days before the equator is 
 reached the young people, with the assistance 
 of the officers, make out a two days' pro- 
 gram of athletic sports. Every first-class 
 

TWO WEEKS IN TROPICAL SEAS. 15 
 
 passenger is asked to enter his name for 
 one or more of the contests, and nearly all 
 are obliging enough to do so. Then comes 
 the fun of appointing judges and commit- 
 tees ; the ladies search their trunks for 
 ribbons for badges, and trinkets for prizes 
 are selected. Then the two days of " sports." 
 The veterans' race in which old men run 
 who haven't done it for years, and young 
 men's and young women's and children's, 
 three-legged races and " obstacle races," 
 " potato races " and " thread-and-needle 
 races," and the ship's company is going from 
 side to side and up and down to watch it 
 all, or try to win, or compliment the winners. 
 Well ! you will have your exercise and many 
 a good laugh, and in the evening the prizes 
 wiU be distributed in the music-room by the 
 captain or the most distinguished passenger. 
 After dinner you will watch the phos- 
 phorescent water gleaming like a trail of fire 
 at the stern, take more walks with the prom- 
 enaders around the decks, and repair to 
 the music-room where your talented fellow- 
 passengers are sure to furnish a concert, 
 
16 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 including everything from the classics to 
 Irish ballads and college songs. Even a 
 prestidigitator may give you a performance 
 some night. Oh! you are all great friends 
 now. The Portuguese Countess and you 
 have been having an hour's womanly visit ; 
 and you are anxious about the baby of the 
 fascinating English wife of the Argentine 
 ranchman who lives in such dignity in their 
 little colony on the pampa. The baby feels 
 the rapid change to summer heat, and you 
 advise the mother to fiU her rubber (hot) 
 water-bag with ice-water and slip it under 
 baby's little pillow, and she thinks it might 
 be weU and says she has always heard the 
 Americans were '^ keen after ice." 
 
 You wiU be glad to see land for a few 
 hours, though it is a dreary, treeless spot, 
 picturesque St. Vincent. Thirty-five English 
 telegraph operators form the nucleus of the 
 town and are there to repeat cablegrams 
 from the systems of wires which center there 
 in mid-ocean. At a center of information, 
 yet what fearful isolation ! Other steamers 
 stop for coal as yours does. 
 
TWO WEEKS IN TROPICAL SEAS. 17 
 
 The second Sunday at sea is one to be 
 remembered. It is spent in mid ocean, in the 
 tropics. In the companionway is posted a 
 notice of service in the great dining-saloon 
 at 10.30 A. M. At ten you are sitting on 
 deck, in a fresh white dress, waiting. Soon 
 after the crew begins to gather, stewards, 
 cooks, quartermasters, every one who can be 
 spared from duty. They come in neat 
 uniform, white trousers, navy blue jackets 
 and caps with the Royal MaU device em- 
 broidered in color. The line of men, over a 
 hundred, stretches the length of the deck. 
 The captain and purser, followed by all the 
 officers walk the length of the line for roU- 
 caU and review. The officers lead the way 
 to the dining-saloon followed by the crew, 
 then by the passengers. The stately service 
 of the Church of England is read by the 
 captain ; the psalms are all sung, led by an 
 accompUshed English lady at the organ.* 
 
 * As the hymns and chants are those of the English 
 Church an English musician is naturally chosen, and 
 there are always those among the English passengers 
 who are fully competent to render this service. 
 
 2 
 
18 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 How many fine voices there are among 
 those sailors ! It is an impressive service, 
 and you are glad that it is required by law, 
 and that all sorts and conditions of men 
 join in it. 
 
 After this luncheon, and a deck unusu- 
 ally full of novel readers, for some of the 
 gentlemen do not play "poker" in the 
 smoking-room Sundays. 
 
 I remember we saw during that Sunday 
 afternoon two men whom we had not seen 
 before. They were reading Bibles. A 
 notice of a Gospel service at 8 P. M. by the 
 forward hatch was posted. We went ; so 
 did all the passengers. The two new men 
 were the evangehsts. They gave out a 
 Gospel hymn and started it, but no one 
 seemed to know it or joined in the singing. 
 They read the Scripture and exhorted, express- 
 ing themselves strongly on unrighteousness, 
 betting and the use of tobacco, while the 
 hsteners occasionally took their cigarettes 
 out of their mouths long enough to smile 
 derisively. We felt pained at the apparent 
 failure and asked the captain for the cause. 
 
TWO WEEKS IN TROPICAL SEAS. 19 
 
 "Well," said he, "these men are in the 
 world but not of it. They have shut them- 
 selves away from the passengers, the sports ; 
 shown no friendliness to the sailors. My 
 men are very obhging and often sing well 
 when these missionaries come along, but this 
 sort offends them, makes them ugly." We 
 saw no more of the men until they landed 
 four days later. 
 
PERNAMBUCO. 
 
 Yotr cannot help being properly excited 
 when you anchor off your first Brazilian 
 city, Pernambueo — the sugar-shipping port. 
 It Ues two miles away — a low line of light- 
 colored buildings with palm trees interspersed. 
 Between you and it is the strange wall, the 
 natural breakwater, which looks as if some 
 human engineer had planned it there; 
 narrow, level, twelve feet above high water, 
 with the surf broken into white foam against 
 its side. This reef follows the coast for sev- 
 eral hundred miles, but not always above 
 the water line. Opposite your anchorage is 
 the break in the wall which would let a 
 lighter vessel than yours over the reef ; and 
 in the quiet harbor lie the smallish craft 
 from everywhere. At the end of the reef 
 
 near you is an old bit of a Dutch fort, and 
 20 
 
PERNAMBUCO. 21 
 
 it dawns on your mind that in the colonizing 
 times between 1530 and 1660 this land 
 was owned successively by Portugal, Spain, 
 England, Holland and finally by Portugal 
 again. 
 
 You may feel very superior in some ways 
 to what you see when you go ashore, but 
 not in the antiquity of your country nor the 
 superiority of your cofEee. The truth is you 
 are in a life wholly different from anything 
 you live in at home. You look down the 
 narrow streets at buildings which remind 
 you of the different colonists who built there. 
 Close by is a public building, the outside 
 walls of which are faced in pattern with 
 glazed tiles in g^een and yellow like your 
 neighbor's new mantelpiece. Next is a 
 stucco building, tinted to imitate pink marble, 
 with sky-blue trimmings. It makes you 
 laugh, it's aU so gay, but it seems pleasant 
 after all that any people should want their 
 very houses and stores and town halls to 
 look so cheerful. You are not quite used to 
 seeing f air^sized children in the street with- 
 out clothes, but they are black mostly who 
 
22 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL 
 
 avail themselves of such liberty. You look 
 at the street cars, which your Enghsh com- 
 panion calls a " tram " and your Brazilian 
 escort a " bond," and their unsleek little 
 mules viith their long fur all welted where 
 they have been beaten, suggest room for 
 a Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to 
 Animals. 
 
 You ride over the long iron bridge built 
 in Dom Pedro's time to the suburb where 
 fine residences make you realize anew how 
 the people love brightness — ^for in the gardens 
 are not only brilliant flowering plants, but 
 wire frames among the shrubbery holding 
 great quicksilvered balls, and your confused 
 sense is of a continuous Christmas tree in 
 hot weather with no gift for you. Indeed 
 you feel in a very foreign land. There is 
 not a tree or plant you have seen outside 
 of greenhouses. The colors are aU more 
 brilliant, the motions more slow, the greet- 
 ings more elaborate, the beggars more 
 loathsome, the whole place more ancient and 
 semi-decayed than anything you know. 
 Every wall is thick to keep out the heat, 
 
PERNAMBUCO. 23 
 
 every window has its " Venetian," behind 
 which you fancy are eyes. 
 
 A fellow-traveller on the steamer knows 
 the life here and has been assuring you that 
 the chmate is delightful : that no one ever 
 takes cold ; that windows never are shut ; 
 that the same weight of clothing can be 
 worn the year around ; that the foreign 
 colony is agreeable, the hand-made lace is 
 pretty and durable, and the best " drawn- 
 work " simply exquisite. 
 
 Six strong men row you over the two 
 miles to your ship. Outside the reef it is 
 rough enough to keep you very still in your 
 httle boat and glad to exchange it for a 
 steamer, and you wonder if you can be quick 
 enough to catch the ladder as the wave lifts 
 your boat to meet it. It has seemed to you 
 the last few minutes that the miracle of 
 Peter walking on the water was being re- 
 peated several times about you on that rough 
 sea, only these modern sea-walkers have a 
 mast and a bench. It is really the fisher- 
 men's catamaran, a raft constantly washed 
 by the sea, navigated by a sail. 
 
24 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 The ship is as familiar a home now as you 
 can remember, and you think you know 
 everything that can happen to you there. 
 You have loaded and unloaded freight, 
 listened to the noise of the ice-manufactur- 
 ing, the dumping of the ashes from the 
 furnace-room in the early morning, and the 
 daily scrubbing down of the decks at 4 A.M. 
 You have watched the crew go through the 
 fire drill and the drill of manning the life- 
 boats. You have listened to the Captain's 
 stories of helping disabled ships in mid- 
 ocean, and the heavy expense of it, and 
 learned how they signal their distress with 
 rockets. You know Sunday in port and 
 Sunday at sea, how to count the " bells," 
 and change your watch daily to the new 
 time. But while you are eating the first 
 hal£ of your dinner that night you realize 
 that you are an object of interest to your 
 next neighbor at table, a hon vivant who 
 has made this journey many times before. 
 You cannot think what is the cause of his 
 suppressed excitement. You like the fresh 
 vegetables that have come aboard and 
 
PERNAMBUCO. 25 
 
 remember your childhood when you look at 
 the new bouquets which decorate the tables 
 — such old-time solid pyramids of posies. 
 At length dessert is reached. The steward 
 brings a whole pineapple, lifts its cap (the 
 entire outside), reveals the juicy inside cut 
 in shces which you taste. Now you know 
 what your neighbor wanted to see, your 
 surprise and dehght in the Pernambuco 
 "pines," the abacaxi (aba-ca-shee). Make 
 the most of the abundance of this ripe, rich- 
 flavored, tender, fiberless fruit here, for you 
 probably won't find anything else that tastes 
 so good. 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 
 
 It is two days from Pernambuco to Bahia. 
 The ship does not keep in sight of land, 
 for coast currents are not safe. 
 
 I remember well our anchoring in 1895, 
 in the great bay — Bahia means bay — sur- 
 rounded by bluffs on which the bright-col- 
 ored buildings of the city show to fine 
 advantage. The fleet of httle boats rowed 
 out the mile to meet us. The Presbyterian 
 missionary friends we had known so pleas- 
 antly in our own land, the Chamberlains and 
 the Kolbs, were in one of them and we no 
 longer felt unknown and far away. 
 
 Mr. Chamberlain said, " We came out to 
 see you and Bishop Granbery." 
 
 " The Bishop is not on this ship," we re- 
 pUed. But persistent investigation discov- 
 ered him, his wife, and the Secretary of the 
 26 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 27 
 
 Foreign Mission Board of the Methodist 
 Church South in the " second-class." The 
 quarters located over the screw had kept 
 them miserable from the constant vibration 
 and seasick the entire voyage, so they were 
 thoroughly used up. 
 
 Whoever has read " The Bishop's Con- 
 version " * will appreciate the story. Most 
 merchants " economize some other way." 
 There are differing views of this economy 
 among missionaries, and individual needs 
 should enter into the decision, but the nerv- 
 ous system should be strong to endure the 
 perpetual motion of the screw. 
 
 That half-day in Bahia harbor with our 
 friends was a taste of missions at short 
 range. Their flourishing school had just 
 closed. It was a new venture with Miss 
 Laura Chamberlain for principal. The 
 last day of school had been a memorable 
 one, visited by parents who sent their 
 children with fear and trembling, but 
 who came to see the ending with pride and 
 astonishment. The secular papers had com- 
 * Published by the Methodist Book Concern. 
 
28 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 mented unrequested on the high quality of 
 instruction — a brave deed there where Pro- 
 testantism had no friends. The Brazil- 
 ian owner of a great factory in a suburb had 
 been present and proposed to pay the ex- 
 penses of such a school among his employees 
 if " we " could provide such teachers. How 
 we all planned ! How worth while it seemed 
 to live ! to plan schools for a great state in 
 which only sixteen in a hundred could read ! 
 even if it were only for two schools, " ours " 
 and the factory owner's. 
 
 Mr. Chamberlain had just returned from 
 his first long journey in the saddle away, 
 away into the interior of the state, and found 
 material for Gospel teaching which filled 
 him with enthusiasm — the sturdy " cow- 
 boys," men clad in leather, of fine physique 
 and stamina. " Rough Riders " were not 
 then renowned, but Mr. Chamberlain's pro- 
 phetic eye saw his men as they might be 
 and longed to get plenty of help and be at 
 work to realize the vision. 
 
 The religious history of the state of Bahia 
 has been making since that day, but not 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 29 
 
 without persecution. A third school was 
 planted, and grew, out on the nearest edge 
 of " the interior " at the cattle-market, Feira 
 St. Anna, in spite of warnings of priests and 
 Romish fanatics, with Christine Chamberlain 
 as principal teacher, beloved by the children 
 and admired by their parents, who needed 
 such goodness, efficiency and magnetism as 
 hers to overcome their fear of a Protestant 
 school. Now the burning torch which was 
 beginning to lighten that dark spot has been 
 taken away to the land where there is no 
 more night. Both Miss Chamberlain and 
 her Bra2dlian assistant, Noemi, have died of 
 fever, contracted whUe going through an 
 unsanitary part of Bahia on a visit of friendly 
 inspection to that " factory school." And 
 the factory school is like a green bay tree. 
 The patron was warned that it might cost 
 him his friends and even his great business, 
 but he has been determined to accomplish 
 such instruction for his people in spite of the 
 fact that the Bible was to be used as freely 
 as any text-book. He is a convert to modern 
 (Christian) education. 
 
30 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Pretty Bahia seems more nearly in a 
 comatose state than the other Brazilian 
 cities you have heard described so freely on 
 the steamer. You gather that there is less 
 intelligence, more superstition, less broad 
 pubHe spirit, more fevers, less elegance of 
 speech and courtesy of manner. Your 
 steamer does not wait long enough for you 
 to verify these impressions. You only climb 
 the bluff in an elevator, go in a bond to see 
 pretty suburban residences, passing consular 
 offices with their national colors. You come 
 back through the narrowest of streets, and 
 stop at one church " of Our Lady," and have 
 a hurried look within. It is old-looking, 
 bare and dirty to yoiu" eyes, and the image 
 of the little Christ in His mother's arms 
 shocks you by its ugliness and frippery. 
 Hung about are waxen imitations of arms, 
 legs, heads, etc., with sores and various ail- 
 ments depicted on their surfaces. You rec- 
 ognize them as the offerings you have heard 
 about, and to be found in many churches, 
 of sufferers who plead with the Mother of 
 Our Lord to heal their diseases. Time and 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 31 
 
 dust do not make these objects more pleas- 
 ing to the eye. 
 
 Back again you row to the ship and dine, 
 then go on deck. Forget the few unpleasant 
 things you saw ashore, remember the pahns 
 and the colors, and give yourself up to the 
 pleasure of the soft night-air and that great 
 crescent of Hghts — electric and gas — from the 
 water's edge to the height of the bluff, with 
 the lighthouse shining nobly at the point. 
 
 Some new passengers have come for the 
 south, one coffee^merchant, from Boston, 
 you are told ; the others all Brazilian. You 
 have never met people more courteous than 
 this BraziUan Senator and his wife, but 
 their manners are very conservative com- 
 pared with their countrymen, who are now 
 taking leave of each other after a champagne 
 party given down in the dining-saloon by 
 those about to sail. The men Uterally em- 
 brace each other, in true Brazilian style, 
 patting each other's shoulder-blades, and 
 their kissing is on both cheeks. A criticism 
 I once heard there of an average gentleman 
 of the United States was, " He had no man- 
 
32 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 ners whatever. Why, he did not even know 
 enough to shake hands." So from now on 
 you must have your hand ready, and soon 
 learn horn dia, good-day, to say to every one 
 you really meet. 
 
 A little over two days and you are about 
 to enter the famous harbor of Rio de Janeiro. 
 Deeply serrated mountains form the coast, 
 with varying altitudes from one to four 
 thousand feet, and the city of four hundred 
 thousand people is so crowded by these pre- 
 cipitous heights that it must wind its way 
 up several valleys and over the lesser hiUs 
 with at least two cog-wheel railroads to the 
 upper levels. These items have been told 
 you by some new friends you have made on 
 the ship, who are generous with all they 
 know ; and one man even brings you a par- 
 agraph he has copied from the Encyclopedia 
 Britannica, which says : " The Bay of Rio 
 de Janeiro has been the subject of poetic 
 panegyric ever since it was discovered ; and 
 the traveler who comes to it after a voyage 
 round the world seems as susceptible to its 
 charm as if it were his first tropical expe- 
 
a M ^ 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 33 
 
 rience. This bay is the very gate to a trop- 
 ical paradise. There is nowhere so bold a 
 coast, such a picturesque cluster of mountains, 
 such a maze of inlets and outlets, such a 
 burst of aU-pervading vegetation. The ac- 
 tual entrance between Fort Sao Joao and 
 Fort Santa Cruz is 1700 yards wide. Within 
 there are fifty square mUes of anchorage, or 
 even more for vessels of hght draught, the 
 bay having a width varying from two to 
 seven nules, and stretching inland from the 
 sea for sixteen miles. Its coast Kne, neglect- 
 ing minor indentations, measures sixty miles. 
 Such a sheet of water would be beautiful 
 anywhere ; but, when on all sides it is sur- 
 rounded by hills of the most varied contour, 
 the beauty is enhanced a thousandfold. Its 
 surface is broken by a large number of 
 islands from Governor's Island, six nules 
 long, down to the little clusters." This 
 man, by the way, started from England for 
 the round trip of the " NUe," making alto- 
 gether a two months' voyage. He has a 
 large state-room, with books, mostly of 
 science and reference. 
 
34 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 For seventeen days you have heard of 
 Kio, and Rio, and Rio, on deck and at 
 table; for many of your companions live 
 there or are eager to see it for the first time. 
 You are up by six o'clock to lose none of 
 the early morning view. The ship is nerv- 
 ous among the shore currents outside the 
 harbor, then makes one great plunge over 
 the bar, whereat all the old residents laugh 
 famiHarly, and glides in stately quiet within 
 the smooth harbor. 
 
 You have had your early black coffee, so 
 stay with all the rest to take in the exquisite 
 beauty. Seeing is better than being told. 
 Your lungs drink in the soft air. Your eyes 
 drink in the forms and colors. Here is the 
 old Sugar Loaf, sheer rock a thousand feet 
 up out of the water, a sharp cone, gray, soft- 
 ened by green mosses, the sentinel of the city. 
 There is the city built to the water's edge, 
 with sharp hills in the midst, crowned each 
 with a church, " built in Jesuit style." The 
 groups and alleys of the royal palms are tall 
 and straight, some of them a hundred feet 
 in height, yomr neighbor says. 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 35 
 
 The ship anchors not unduly near another 
 ship. There are many others, warships and 
 sailing vessels and steamers, " tramps "and 
 " regular liners." In an incredibly short 
 time a fleet of launches and row-boats 
 surround you, and happy are you if you, too, 
 find some one there to meet you. Here is 
 an Englishman to meet the gentle wife and 
 troop of little children he sent " home " a 
 year ago to build up in cold weather. You 
 look the other way at the bank clerk sent to 
 meet two new recruits, and at the manager 
 of an American coffee firm who comes to 
 meet the man who is to be his substitute 
 wlule he goes " home " for six months' 
 change. But perhaps you are most inter- 
 ested to see the Scotchman who has come for 
 his bride, for she has been such a cosy, little 
 body all the way down. She sailed " in care 
 of the captain," brought her wedding dress, 
 her wedding cake and requisite legal papers 
 along, has been everybody's helper and 
 nobody's trouble, and finally has the nick- 
 name of Sammy, which is short for good 
 Samaritan. She will have a BraziUan civil 
 
36 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 marriage service first, then the chaplain of 
 the Church of England will perform a reli- 
 gious one, and three weeks after she lands 
 the British consul will marry the couple a 
 third time and the notice can he recorded 
 " at home." England does not intend to 
 countenance runaway marriages. At the 
 end of the third service you may telegraph 
 your good wishes to " the Bride of the Nile." 
 
 The American knows the Kio Secretary 
 of the International Young Men's Christian 
 Association, and invites him to the steamer 
 breakfast, of which nearly aU now partake, 
 both passengers and visitors. You and your 
 husband are invited to be of the party to go 
 ashore iu that launch, and spend the day till 
 four o'clock sight-seeing. You are advised 
 to spend your nights in Petropolis; for it is 
 beautiful up there, and a slight risk to stay 
 down in the city at night on account of 
 « the fever." 
 
 You prove during that first day in Eio 
 that the narrow streets are lined with really 
 interesting stores containing goods quite 
 beautiful, but very expensive. You see 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BATS. 37 
 
 French clothes and fine diamonds ; brilliant 
 birds, stuffed ; and humming-birds set in gold 
 for jewelry; feather flowers of the most 
 beautiful colors, made from the natural, un- 
 dyed plumage of tropical birds — crimson, 
 pink and snow-white rose buds, pale pink 
 morning-glories, scarlet coffee-cherries, all 
 with green feather fohage. Such blossoms 
 would not suffer in your bonnet if you wore 
 them in the rain, but no one does it. 
 
 You stop a moment at the large music- 
 store, having its own and foreign publica- 
 tions, and there catch the first strains of a 
 Brazflian Tango, the dance of Spanish 
 rhythm which you find quite new and fas- 
 cinating. You will hear this same rhythm 
 many times before you leave Brazil, but will 
 not find it used for dancing. 
 
 You visit the large and elegant library 
 building, containing they say one hundred 
 and twenty thousand volumes, but see no 
 readers. It was of royal origin long ago. 
 
 You go to see the new Young Men's 
 Christian Association Building, the only one 
 in Brazil, while your guide, Mr. Myron 
 
38 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Clark, from Minneapolis, tells you the demand 
 upon it in this port, and you wish it were 
 not such a struggle to raise money for it. 
 " The foreigners " are quite ready to con- 
 tribute to the EngKsh hospital, for any of 
 them may need its care ; but the use of a 
 Y. M. C. A. is not familiar to many of them. 
 How shall it get the money it deserves ? 
 
 You go to see the National Art GaUery 
 and find a few good pictures of local feeling 
 or history, but otherwise the work of artists 
 who have studied in Paris. You have 
 climbed one precipice of five hundred feet 
 by the " Piano inclinado," looked down over 
 the brilliant city flecked with palms, and fol- 
 lowed the substantial aqueduct " built by the 
 Jesuits " long ago, which brings water into 
 town from the heights, over arches at first 
 low, but rising about a hundred feet across 
 one valley. The masonry is stuccoed, moss- 
 grown, fern-draped ; the water pure and re- 
 freshing. You ascend to the top of Corco- 
 vado, twenty-five hundred feet high, by 
 another cog-wheel railroad, and find a little 
 shelter-house at the peak from which you 
 
TWO BEAUTIFUL BAYS. 39 
 
 see the Avonderful view of city, bay, other 
 mountains and ocean bathed in light ; then 
 hurry down to get the " barca," the large 
 fine ferry-boat which takes you ten miles 
 across the bay on your way to Petropolis. 
 It leaves at four in the afternoon. How you 
 love that sail in the soft air across that beau- 
 tiful bay ! You look forward to the great 
 Organ Mountains up which you will soon be 
 climbing, and wonder what harmonies came 
 from those giant fluted pipes when the morn- 
 ing stars sang together. You have good 
 company, English, German and American in 
 addition to the Brazilian. Too soon you are 
 in the train which speeds along the few level 
 miles, then dismembers and cHmbs the heavy 
 grade in sections. You will never forget the 
 outlook from these windows and wonder if 
 so much beauty has existed all these years 
 known to so few. 
 
PETROPOLIS. 
 
 FouB thousand feet up, and back from all 
 sight of the harbor, you reach Petropolis, 
 built first as the summer residence of the 
 Emperor, Dom Pedro, and named for him- 
 self. It is a beautiful town, the home of rich 
 Brazilians, foreign merchants and foreign 
 legations, for it is the diplomatic center. 
 While you stay at the English Pens^o Ho- 
 noria, some ship-friends are near by at the 
 Hungarian Pensao Central, both with un- 
 usually good food and service. In the garden 
 great bushes of the cameHa are covered 
 with waxen blossoms and the poinsettia 
 blazes beside a hedge of heliotrope. Hum- 
 ming-birds dart in and out among the shrubs. 
 Through the middle of every street runs 
 the mountain stream in a stone-curbed 
 channel, spanned by Indian-red bridges at 
 
 the street crossings. 
 40 
 
PETROPOLIS. 41 
 
 Dom Pedro was the " village improvement 
 society," and the main street is still called 
 the " Rua Imperador " although it was 
 renamed when he was banished. The 
 town follows the narrow valleys between 
 hills always green. The gardens are be- 
 wildering in their profusion of flowers. 
 Lilies blossom as they do in California. 
 Orange trees perfume the air. The verandas 
 are but a step up from the ground, and the 
 rooms open upon the verandas. You feel 
 little need for a house. Only hotels and 
 palaces are two stories high; the rest are 
 one. 
 
 The British Minister, the American, the 
 Swedish, the Belgian, the German, the Ar- 
 gentine, with their suites, are soon recog- 
 nizable. You go to call on your American 
 Minister, find it is an afternoon " at home," 
 and imagine you know what the confusion 
 of tongues was like, for aU the other kinds 
 of foreigners are there. You go also to call 
 on the Methodist missionary, sent by the 
 Southern Church from Georgia. He is the 
 only Protestant minister living in this region 
 
42 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 except the German Lutheran, who is the 
 shepherd of a colony of good German 
 workers imported by the Emperor long 
 ago. 
 
 These Methodists have begun with a 
 school instead of a church, and have hon- 
 ored their work by buying a beautiful building 
 in beautiful grounds for a seminary, which 
 is the only rival of the school of the nuns in 
 the old imperial palace. These are both 
 boarding as well as day-schools. You smUe 
 when you become conscious of some of 
 the difficulties these teachers have in pre- 
 paring text-books and explaining general 
 literature, for the North Star is not visible 
 — the Southern Cross has taken its work. 
 December, January and February are the 
 hottest months ; Christmas will probably be 
 scorching; the sun shines in at the north 
 windows, and the farther south you go the 
 colder it grows; for you are south of the 
 equator. Have Australia and South Africa 
 and South America had to read all our 
 best literature all these years with a com- 
 mentary to make it intelligible ! 
 
PETROPOLIS. 43 
 
 The Portuguese days of the week sug- 
 gest Old and New Testament instead of 
 the heathenish origin of Anglo-Saxon 
 names: 
 
 Monday Segunda Feira Second Market Day. 
 
 Tuesday Terga Feira Third Market Day. 
 
 "Wednesday Quarta Feira Fourth Market Day. 
 
 Thursday Quinta Feira Fifth Market Day. 
 
 Friday Sexta Feira Sixth Market Day. 
 
 Saturday Sabbado The Sabbath. 
 
 Sunday Domingo The Lord's Day. 
 
 You have made several friends among 
 coffee, insurance, banking, exchange, diplo- 
 matic and missionary people, and have 
 discovered mutual friends "at home"; so 
 you have had visits and invitations to drive 
 and to walk, and now have one for a break- 
 fast at one o'clock on Sunday. Really 
 just what would the Sabbath Observance 
 Committee do here ? There is no English 
 service tiU four in the afternoon, to be held 
 in a hall over a grocery store by the mis- 
 sionary of the Methodist Church. A French- 
 man comes to mind who mentioned with 
 bewildered disgust the American plea for 
 closing the Exposition on Sunday : " What 
 
44 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 do they expect us to do, then ! Sit on a 
 bench in the park all day ! " 
 
 The business men are all at home, glad to 
 rest one day iu seven from the three hours' 
 journey to their Rio offices and the three 
 hours back, besides their exciting markets. 
 Through the week they have little chance 
 for exercise, for the only train down the 
 mountain leaves at seven in the morning, 
 and one cannot reach home much before 
 seven at night. The early coffee has thor- 
 oughly wakened and fortified the system 
 against malaria. You see with what keen 
 pleasure the various parties start off on 
 horseback or a-wheel. They will ride until 
 they are healthily tired and come back to 
 be entertained in little groups at hospitable 
 boards. What will you do ? accept the in- 
 vitation and join one of the groups? or 
 stay in your own garden, and eat your own 
 hotel breakfast? 
 
 In any case you attend the service in the 
 hall, in company with thirty or forty others. 
 Double this number in town are Enghsh or 
 Americans. One of the Methodist school- 
 
PETROPOUS. 45 
 
 teachers plays the harmonium. Moody and 
 Sankey hymns are sung. It is more nearly 
 a piece of North America than anything 
 you have seen since you left that beloved 
 spot, but the setting is foreign, from the 
 different wall-paper patterns to the very 
 wide boards of very hard wood which com- 
 pose the bare floor, and the foreign-looking 
 houses you see through the window. Your 
 missionary preacher has held a Portuguese 
 service, attended by the poor, in the morn- 
 ing, and a collection keeps this English serv- 
 ice self-supporting, so far as room-rent goes. 
 
 You must make another trip to Eio. 
 This time your first objective point will be 
 the Botanical Garden, with its magnificent 
 alley of palms, its more beautiful alley of 
 bamboos, old tamarind trees and other at- 
 tractions. You will not be disappointed in 
 the beauty, but you wiU be surprised to find 
 yourself there almost alone. The " bond " 
 has taken you through interesting streets, 
 and quite a long distance on the edge of the 
 bay. You have skirted hUls built to the top 
 and others too steep for that. You return 
 
46 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 to the heart of town in time for a late break- 
 fast, one o'clock, which you may have in- 
 vited some friends to share at a capital 
 restaurant on " the Ouvidor." You climb 
 a long flight of stairs to a large, cool, pleas- 
 ant room with many open windows. Every 
 room by law must be at least fifteen feet 
 high, whatever its floor dimensions, and 
 public rooms are always frescoed with old- 
 time panels and bunches of flowers. 
 
 What is the Ouvidor ? A very narrow 
 street, too narrow for vehicles, lined on both 
 sides for seven or eight blocks with the best 
 stores of Rio. It is also a meeting-place for 
 politicians and newsmongers, gentlemen of 
 leisure and fashion. 
 
 When I went to Eio first in 1884 it was 
 not proper for a woman to go in the street 
 without some man to take care of her. 
 She certainly could not go to shop alone in 
 the Ouvidor as she sometimes does now. 
 
 When Prof. Agassiz visited Brazil, " on 
 the occasion of his first lectures delivered 
 in the capital, he earnestly requested the 
 emperor that ladies might be allowed to be 
 
PETROPOLIS. 4Y 
 
 present, — a privilege till then denied them 
 on grounds of etiquette. The request was 
 granted, and the sacred domain of science 
 for the first time was thrown open to the 
 women of South America."* 
 
 Now she is verily a new woman, being far 
 less restricted. The sanitary conditions of 
 the streets have been improved. The sights 
 do not shock her ideas of propriety. Eio is 
 fast becoming a city like any in Southern 
 Europe, never forgetting its superior natural 
 charms. Whoever would have thought that 
 the probable presence of women on the 
 streets of a town could work a revolution ! 
 Even the negro porters and little children 
 are now reasonably clad. I used to apos- 
 trophize the cofPee-sack, ripped a little way 
 at the bottom and a little way on each side 
 to let a head and pair of arms through, as 
 the only garment of the poor man, but now 
 the cofEee-sack serves only its original pur- 
 pose. The curious tin trumpets projecting 
 from the level of the second floors no longer, 
 so far as I have seen, discharge the pails of 
 * Reminiscences, Julia Ward Howe. 
 
48 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 water which were thrown on the floors and 
 swept out through these convenient vents 
 into the street. There are no longer bonds 
 labeled " descalgos," (barefooted) in which 
 such were compelled to ride. 
 
 This time you must climb the mountains 
 back of Rio for the night. Had ever an 
 emperor such a park as Dom Pedro made of 
 these mountains of Tijuca ! Thirty miles of 
 park road, swept every week, lighted by gas, 
 winding in and out, up and down the precip- 
 itous slopes of mountains green to the top ! 
 And such green ! the green of palms and 
 tree ferns, of trees with orchids and sipos. 
 Every few yards brings you to a distinctly 
 new view : sometimes it includes the Atlantic, 
 sometimes the Rio harbor, sometimes the 
 distant city, more often a lovely valley, a 
 waterfall, a height of rock all covered with 
 ferns and mosses, and another stretch of your 
 winding road with a railing of tall, graceful 
 bamboos growing at some dangerous place. 
 You are shown the spots which Agassiz spe- 
 cially studied and stay in the old hotel where 
 he stayed. Why do people go to Petropolis 
 
ALLEY OF PALMS, BOTANICAL GARDEN, klO. 
 
PETROPOLIS. 49 
 
 with this beautiful spot so much nearer? 
 Because, in the summer-time, between De- 
 cember and April, yellow fever has been 
 known to get a little lodgment even here ; 
 rarely, it is true, but the foreigner who knows 
 his new home never takes any risks. He 
 will not stay in Rio during fever-time after 
 simdown. He wiU not go out in the early 
 morning without his coffee. If he has the 
 slightest intimation of fever he takes castor 
 oil without a moment's delay. If he has 
 taken the fever he goes at once to the hos- 
 pital in Rio, not risking the change to the 
 cool heights of Petropolis, lest he might not 
 have strength to rally in the cold when the 
 period of collapse comes. You say you 
 would not live in a place where such a sword 
 hung over your head, but they read New 
 York and Chicago papers in July with rec- 
 ords of hundreds of deaths from sunstroke 
 while their temperature is hardly varying five 
 degrees from seventy, and in February, when 
 their fever is at its worst, they read the 
 numbers of victims of pneumonia, grippe, 
 diphtheria, and find the ills of life not so 
 
50 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 unevenly distributed after all. Men on 
 salaries large enough to live in Petropolis 
 need have httle fear of yeUow fever. But 
 the missionaries in Rio, the secretaries of Y. 
 M. C. A., Bible Society, etc., and the under- 
 clerks of foreign establishments must have it 
 once. How these men andwomen have nursed 
 each other through the sharpness of the fever 
 and the awful weakness afterwards! Do 
 you wonder that friendships spring up under 
 these circumstances between people who 
 would hardly find their affinity at home ? 
 
 Kipling voiced the spirit of such comrade- 
 ship in a small community in a foreign land, 
 when he wrote : 
 
 " I have eaten your bread and salt, 
 I have drunk your water and wine, 
 The deaths ye died I have watched beside 
 And the lives that ye lead were mine. 
 
 " Was there aught that I did not share, 
 In vigil, or toil, or ease, 
 One joy or woe that I did not know, 
 Dear hearts across the seas f 
 
 " I have written the tale of our life, 
 For a sheltered people's mirth. 
 In jesting guise — but ye are wise, 
 And ye know what the jest is worth." 
 
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SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 
 
 Though you are so comfortable and happy 
 in PetropoHs with frequent excursions to 
 Eio, you cannot leave Brazil without a trip 
 to Santos and Sao Paulo. Perhaps you 
 never heard of these places before you ar- 
 rived, but now they are all-important. You 
 recall " Santos " as a mark stuck in coffee- 
 bags at your grocer's at home. Here you 
 know it is the port which ships the greatest 
 amount of coffee to Europe and North Amer- 
 ica of any in the world — milUons and mU- 
 Kons of dollars' worth. And Sao Paulo, a 
 city of 200,000, is the capital of a great and 
 wealthy state of the same name, lying up on 
 the high table-land forty miles from Santos, 
 its port. 
 
 You study the daily papers for a " vapor " 
 (steamer) to take you these two hundred 
 
 miles farther south, and find them due from 
 
 51 
 
62 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 every port in Europe, freighters with cabins 
 for a few passengers. It is a rather rough 
 voyage, but after twenty hours you round 
 the island which lies in front of Santos, 
 making the Santos " river " a quiet harbor. 
 
 Every flag flies in that harbor, but how 
 the seamen hate it on account of the awful 
 scourge of yeUow fever six years ago, when 
 forty or fifty vessels were abandoned there 
 for lack of living crews to take them out. 
 The sanitary conditions are improved since 
 then, and you may safely sleep on the sea- 
 shore near by, and go into town during the 
 day. The stone quays are now fine. The 
 narrow streets are laden with the odor of 
 green coffee. Barefooted Portuguese and 
 negroes are the beasts of burden. They 
 walk rapidly up a gang-plank with two coffee- 
 bags, each weighing one hundred and 
 thirty-two pounds, on the two shoulders 
 and meeting over the head; then, with a 
 quick motion, dump the bags into the ship's 
 hold. 
 
 The bright-colored houses and the pahns 
 are like those you love in every Brazilian 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 53 
 
 town. The women mostly sit in the win- 
 dows, idle, ill-clad and untidy. The moun- 
 tains climb abruptly behind the half-dozen 
 streets. When you goto Sao Paulo you will 
 cUmb those mountains by an English railway, 
 starting from a good station. 
 
 By the station stands one of the oldest 
 churches in Brazil, dating back perhaps to 
 1550, the Romish church of Saint Antonio. 
 It contains a curious chapel, wainscoted high 
 with blue and white tiles (Delft?) forming a 
 panoramic picture. In the center of the 
 chapel an image of Christ, with the heart ex- 
 posed, has lines of rope running taut from 
 the heart to the images of the saints grouped 
 about him — " WiU draw all men unto me." 
 It is very realistic, very crude, really revolt- 
 ing, but very illustrative also. 
 
 The island which shuts Santos from the 
 vast Atlantic, stretching down towards the 
 South Pole, has on its ocean side a succession 
 of beaches each a mile or more in length sepa- 
 rated by rocky promontories. In the most 
 spacious of these praias a Brazilian syndicate 
 has built a " Brazilian Monte Carlo," called 
 
54 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Guaruja, consisting of hotel, cottages, a 
 Catholic church with never a service in it, a 
 theater, and a Casino where roulette was 
 wont to be played every night and Sundays. 
 If you stay at Santos you will find this spot 
 safe from yellow fever, and your first twenty- 
 four hours will convince you that you have 
 found the climate of Paradise. You are at 
 the edge of the south temperate zone. For 
 weeks the temperature will not vary five de- 
 grees from seventy Fahr. day or night. 
 The fines of nature are exquisite — the slopes 
 of the hills, the curve of the smooth, hard, 
 sandy beach. The air is soft to breathe. 
 
 The hotel is filled with large Brazilian 
 families, some from the city of Sao Paulo, 
 others from the great coffee plantations 
 farther interior. They are typical wealthy 
 Brazilians. Some have been sent by their 
 doctors for sea-bathing. The number of 
 baths is prescribed, and taken literally and 
 seriously at six o'clock in the morning. 
 Some have come for gaiety, relief from the 
 monotony of life on a plantation. Some 
 from Sao Paulo were " monarchists," do not 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 55 
 
 like the new republic, go to Paris where the 
 Brazilian Princess holds a little court, and 
 bring back French clothes which may enable 
 you to take to New York some fashions 
 in advance from the remote suburb of 
 Santos ! 
 
 A good quartet plays for dancing in the 
 hotel sola (parlor) every night, especially 
 Sundays. The Casino is the next building, 
 and a wail goes up because the state govern- 
 ment, in what is considered an excess of vir- 
 tue, has sent soldiers to prevent gambling 
 there. 
 
 AU the ladies speak French fluently and 
 their piano-playing is brilliant. They use 
 the time which we bestow upon " an all- 
 round education " upon these accomplish- 
 ments, and marry by the time they are six- 
 teen. Some time they will go to Paris. Now 
 they are over-run by their many little chil- 
 dren, and usually look older than they really 
 are. 
 
 You are puzzled to know who belongs to 
 whom. The wife of Senhor de Couto is 
 Dona Margarida. The mother of Senhor 
 
56 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Antonio Prado is Dona Veridiana. The 
 wife of the nation's president, Campos Salles, 
 is Dona Anna Gabriella. They might all 
 be members of a royal family, or belong to 
 the time of the patriarchs, so far as their use 
 of names goes. When the narrow gauge 
 train brings the papas at night to the front 
 of the hotel there is pleasant excitement. 
 The sons kiss the hands of their fathers 
 respectfully. You will select the lawyers 
 and doctors by the distinctive gem each 
 wears in his ring, diamond or emerald. The 
 barons are mostly owners of coffee planta- 
 tions, and the many commissarios are the 
 coffee factors who often advance much 
 money " up country " to perfect and bring 
 down the coffee to the port. You meet them 
 all easily on the verandas or in the park 
 which borders the beach. 
 
 The park itself deserves your interest ; for 
 the neighboring forests have yielded their 
 palms, aloes and dragon's blood to beautify 
 it, and the little summer houses are thatched 
 with blossoming air-plants all pink and green. 
 
 Your strong, good coffee and fresh French 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 57 
 
 bread are brought to your bedroom at seven 
 in the morning, and then, before the sun is un- 
 pleasantly strong, you have your walk on the 
 beach after watching the little narrow gauge 
 train start with the business men for Santos. 
 At eleven you go to the dining-room for a 
 four or five course breakfast. At four o'clock 
 you will make your own tea on your spirit 
 lamp and have some of Huntley and Palmer's 
 biscuits. (When the " biscuits " are eaten 
 the box is just what you want to keep your 
 kid gloves from mold and your gluey laces 
 from being eaten by insects. I was not sur- 
 prised to read of a British Bible Society 
 making Bibles for Central Africa of a size 
 and shape "to fit in biscuit boxes," that 
 they may be preserved from the ravages of 
 ants, these biscuits being for sale in all such 
 climates.) At five the Brazilians begin to 
 dine. You wait till six, but some are stiU in 
 the dining-room. You wonder at the parents, 
 who give wine out of their own bottles to 
 babies not more than two or three years old; 
 and at the seven-year-old who invites a half 
 dozen of her own age to dine with her on 
 
5S JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 her birthday, and at the close of the meal 
 has her health drunk in champagne by her 
 mates with experienced cHnking of glasses. 
 You make a note of the little American boy 
 five years old, lately arrived, who quickly 
 learns the ways of the country. He asks his 
 mother for a bag of marbles and some money. 
 " What is the money for, my son ? " " Why 
 you can't play marbles here unless you play 
 for money," says the wee man. 
 
 You watch the new arrivals and wonder 
 what are the relationships in this big family 
 — a father, two mothers, or aunts, or what ? 
 with those children. You soon appreciate 
 the exalted place given to the godmother, 
 and she it is who is neither aunt nor mother 
 at that table — a law unto herself and them. 
 Of course she is invited when the famUy 
 comes to the seashore ! I remember an 
 Anglo-BrazUian gentleman once became very 
 angry at this same hotel because he was not 
 given a very good room, " and my compadre 
 (associate father, god-father of the son) the 
 President of this hotel company ! " 
 
 You watch the keen, unprincipled-looking 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 59 
 
 boy just down from the great Jesuit school 
 with whom the hotel manager is vexed " be- 
 cause he is such a little liar." 
 
 You greet your neighbor on the veranda 
 with good-day in Portuguese ; then she 
 speaks more of the same tongue but you 
 shake your head. " Parlez-^ous Fran- 
 gais ? " but there again you are soon beyond 
 your depth, and at length one is found who 
 speaks " a lit-tle English." You have noticed 
 this young woman before, a modest, bright, 
 intelligent-looking girl, with an expression 
 just a little different from all the others, 
 evasive but of a more familiar type. " Where 
 did you learn English ? " you inquire. " At 
 the Eschola Americana (American School), 
 in Sao Paulo," she repHes ; and you tell her 
 you are going to that city very soon and to 
 visit that school. You have found a friend, 
 though a shy one ; Brazilian girls keep well 
 in the background, and next day when a box 
 of flowers, oranges and sugar-cane comes 
 down from her father's fazenda, she brings 
 you some camelias and tells you about the 
 sugar-cane, though neither of you cares to 
 
60 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 chew it. It is for children, and " children 
 of a larger growth." 
 
 St. John's Day comes at the end of June. 
 It is one of the greatest of the many Romish 
 holidays or festas. The " American schools "* 
 do not close for saints' days, indeed one is 
 puzzled to think what other schools do 
 with such constant interruptions and the 
 overwhelming illiteracy is partially accounted 
 for ! They do close, however, for a ten days' 
 vacation at St. John's Day, for it is midway 
 from Christmas to Christmas and fits the 
 school semesters. Dr. Lane, President of 
 the " American schools " and college, and 
 some of the teachers come down to Guaruja 
 to rest, and you have many a quiet time to 
 talk over their work with them, such as they 
 could not well afford to give were they 
 among their five hundred pupils. You enjoy 
 seeing them meet old friends among these 
 BrazHiau families. You sit out on the ve- 
 randa in the evening, while St. John is hon- 
 
 * "American Schools" were founded many years 
 ago by a Presbyterian missionary and have maintained 
 a high standard. 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 61 
 
 ored with fire-works (saints always have fire- 
 works) and talk a little with the orphaned 
 Scotch and Italian girls who have been 
 brought to school and are being trained for 
 teachers. They have all been under the 
 weather. It has been forty-five degrees 
 Fahrenheit up in Sao Paulo morning and 
 evening for three weeks, a little too cold for 
 a building with no heaters fiercer than little 
 charcoal braziers, but the BraziHan children 
 are accustomed to such winter temperatures, 
 even though consumption has more victims 
 than any other disease. 
 
 This is a holiday for business men as well 
 as schools and the prevailing church. 
 
 A picnic to the bay of the second praia is 
 arranged. The islands boasts two carriages 
 and you charter them for the ladies and the 
 luncheon. The gentlemen go on horseback. 
 You arrive at a rocky coast with no beach, no 
 means of reaching the water's edge. And 
 there in sight of your picnic party are hun- 
 dreds of huge turtles in the water ! The ques- 
 tion is proposed, " How much does one of 
 those turtles weigh ? " The inexperienced 
 
62 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 guess wildly from ten to forty pounds. A 
 knowing one says they will average from one 
 to three hundred ! A French steamer is pass- 
 ing the island as you watch, and soon will 
 round the lower end and make the Santos 
 harbor, but she is well out from shore. 
 You never see a little boat among those 
 breakers. No one goes for turtles. If they 
 were on our northern shores what would 
 their lives be worth ! but here living is too 
 indolent to spend ingenuity on capturing 
 turtles. 
 
 I must give you some reminiscences of 
 older Guaruja. The town was created just 
 at the close of the Columbian Exposition. 
 The President of the syndicate visited the 
 United States and bought the buildings for 
 Guaruja, all pine, ready to put together. It 
 looked hke a section of Coney Island and 
 very novel in that land of red-tiled roofs and 
 plastered sides. A narrow-gauge railroad 
 across the island and an electric light plant 
 proved the enterprise of the company. Only 
 three of the many sleeping-rooms in the hotel 
 were lighted by electricity, however. They 
 
SANTOS AND SOME BRAZILIANS. 63 
 
 •were arranged en suite with a light in each, 
 but only one switch, in the middle room, 
 turned the three on and off. It was our 
 drollest fun to tease the Enghsh couple who 
 occupied one of the side rooms about the 
 hour at which their neighbors sent them to 
 bed. If there was a baby there they were 
 plunged into darkness before nine. If there 
 was a " quiet game " going on next door 
 these poor victims must lie in a brilliant light 
 until late. These two rooms lacked their 
 own switches for more than a year to my 
 knowledge. 
 
 Two words you easily learn with their 
 depths (or lengths) of meaning aTe,pacieneia, 
 patience, and amanha, to-morrow (which 
 means some other time, probably no other 
 time). 
 
 If you wish to hear an uproarious laugh 
 listen to any one familiar with Brazil hearing 
 for the first time Kipling's : 
 
 " Now it is not good for the Christian's health to hustle 
 the Aryan brown, 
 For the Christian riles and the Aryan smiles, and he 
 weareth the Christian down ; 
 
64 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 And the end of the fight is a tombstone white with 
 
 the name of the late deceased, 
 And the epitaph drear : ' A fool lies here who tried to 
 
 hustle the East.' " 
 
 Life in Santos — now at high pressure, then 
 idle — now pitiless to one's neighbor, then 
 tender as a brother — now mastering business 
 knowledge o£ the ports and exchanges o£ 
 the world as if such accuracy were all-im- 
 portant, then comes a whirl of speculation 
 in exchange which seems to take all value 
 out of special expert knowledge — life in 
 Santos is evasive to one who would portray 
 it faithfully. It seems difficult to express 
 more than half the truth at one time. If 
 one lives there a month the personal histories 
 wiU all be familiar to him, and a like time 
 on the Praga (Exchange) will acquaint him 
 with the business characteristics of every 
 firm. It is easy to learn things on the 
 ground, to get a just and appreciative 
 knowledge of excellencies and difficulties 
 which is not readily transferrable. There 
 are not only facts which can be stated, but 
 a spirit of the place and people as necessary 
 to know as the facts. 
 
CONSULAR SERVICE AT SANTOS. 
 
 While these reminiscences of our life in 
 Santos and Guaruja in 1895 and '96 are 
 uppermost, a figure comes to my mind 
 which deserves your knowledge. It was 
 still painfully near the horrible epoch of 
 yellow fever developed by dredging for the 
 new quays. That was why we all slept at 
 Guaruja, the Barra, Sao Vicente, or Sao 
 Paulo, even though daily cofEee, banking 
 or navigation business must be prosecuted 
 in Santos. Such living was and is expen- 
 sive, very. 
 
 At this time the United States saw fit 
 to pay her consul in Santos $1,600 a year, 
 since raised to f2,700, without allowance 
 for office rent and expenses. The port 
 cleared eight to ten millions of dollars' worth 
 of cofEee per annum for the United States, 
 
 and a large import business was opening up. 
 
 S 65 
 
66 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 The barest existence at Guaruja, or other 
 healthful suburbs, for a single man, with daily 
 transportation to Santos, cost f 1,500 in 
 gold. But one man could be found to try 
 the service of our government for this State, 
 and he was an Alabama negro. He was 
 presumably an immune from yellow fever. 
 At any rate, his income necessitated his 
 sleeping in his office in Santos, and when 
 even such undignified economies left him 
 short of funds, he borrowed of the Ameri- 
 can merchants. A U. S. cruiser anchored 
 off shore. The U. S. Consul and Amer- 
 ican citizens were invited on board. Tide 
 and conditions made it necessary for the 
 ** tars " to carry the guests ashore on their 
 backs through water about waist deep. The 
 lieutenant in charge prophesied too sure an 
 accident to do other than advise the consul 
 to wade ashore on his own feet. 
 
 This black man did the routine work of 
 the office, earned more than he received, 
 and left in debt. Merchants, as consular 
 agents, have filled emergencies for the gov- 
 ernment. The lack of a living salary for a 
 
CONSULAR SERVICE AT SANTOS. 67 
 
 good man as consul in a difficult but im- 
 portant port is the point I wish to make 
 clear. 
 
 The British government rates this as a 
 first-class consulate ; salary, £1,500, nearly 
 seventy-five hundred dollars. Offices for 
 him in both Santos and Sao Paulo are main- 
 tained at government expense. Each year 
 here counts for two in his required term of 
 service, and at the end of the service his 
 pension is based on the salary of the port. 
 Of course he has been trained to the con- 
 sular service. 
 
 The British Consul when we were in 
 Guaruja had just come from ten years' serv- 
 ice in Mediterranean ports, a gentleman of 
 intelligence, elegance, refinement and cour- 
 tesy. His regalia always adjusted to a 
 nicety to the diplomatic requirements of the 
 occasion, be it a wedding ceremony, a 
 Queen's birthday dinner, a reception or a 
 funeral, provoked smiles from the Ameri- 
 cans. Even the flower in his buttonhole 
 artistically harmonized or contrasted with 
 the shade of velvet of his lapels and cuffs. 
 
68 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 During his first year the worst of " the 
 fever " was in the shipping. Sailors from 
 British ships came to his office in all stages 
 of it. With his own hands he steadied the 
 tottering sick ones, sent them to the hospi- 
 tal, and knew of his own knowledge that 
 they were being taken care of. When they 
 died he collected their pay from the ship- 
 masters and saw that their money and effects 
 reached their relatives at home. He re- 
 ceived while we were there a letter of thanks 
 from an American mother, whose boy, a 
 sailor on an English ship, had died in San- 
 tos. He had collected his pay and sent 
 home his kit. The mother sent him money 
 to erect a stone over her son's grave. 
 
 His systematic exercises were a daily swim 
 in the ocean, followed by a three-mile walk 
 on the beach in the early morning, and two 
 miles more when the business day was 
 done, thus maintaining his best health and 
 vigor in tropical conditions. 
 
 The engineer and purser of a British 
 Royal Man steamer came out to Guaruja 
 while their ship lay in port. Neither could 
 
CONSULAR SERVICE AT SANTOS. 69 
 
 swim, but both went for baths in the sea. 
 The current caught one who was drowning, 
 and the consul rescued him in a seething sui-f 
 after a struggle to the point of exhaustion. 
 Eeaching the shore, he discovered the other, 
 a very heavy man, was being carried rapidly 
 out to sea. He swam after him, but found 
 him dead from sudden apoplexy, and brought 
 his body ashore. He received a medal from 
 the Royal Humane Society of England for 
 his action. 
 
 These were contemporary consuls at San- 
 tos and for the great and rich State of Sao 
 Paulo. 
 
 The American Manufacturers' Excursion 
 to Brazil and the Argentine took place 
 that year for the purpose of promoting 
 trade. Governments feted them. Papers 
 and magazines chronicled their movements. 
 Only the very sad death of one of their 
 number prevented their completing their 
 plan of coming to the important port of 
 Santos and being received by the represent- 
 ative from Alabama. 
 
 To the most of the American merchants 
 
70 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 their consul was " that nigger." To 
 
 the British Consul he was always the repre- 
 sentative of the U. S., and an individual in a 
 trying and poverty-stricken position, and 
 treated with corresponding courtesy and 
 sympathy. 
 
 En route to Brazil we saw posted in the 
 Oxford, England, post-office, a notice warn- 
 ing aU emigrants against going to Brazil 
 until they had consulted the Home Office. 
 
 A few months later we saw a steamer 
 crowded with emigrants from Canada enter 
 the Santos harbor. The State of Sad Paulo 
 had sent out a statement of the need of agri- 
 culturalists. Misunderstanding of needs 
 and conditions had brought about five hun- 
 dred poor Canadians to this "Land of 
 Warmth and Sunshine," knowing nothing 
 of agriculture, half-skiUed in some trades, or 
 well-skilled in trades useless in Brazil. The 
 State fed them in barracks for a while, tried 
 them on interior plantations, returned them 
 to the barracks, tried to obtain other em- 
 ployment, but mostly to no avail. They 
 sickened. Their feet festered with jiggers. 
 
CONSULAR SERVICE AT SANTOS. 71 
 
 They could not speak Portuguese. They 
 were helpless. The British Consul had to 
 send them home by twos, threes, tens, and 
 scores, on tramp steamers, sailing-vessels — 
 any way that they could work their passage 
 or that he could secure the money to pay 
 the passage of the women and children. 
 
 A letter from an American in Sao Paulo, 
 dated July 6th, 1900, says : 
 
 " What does our government mean by 
 sending out an ItaHan Priest as Consul to 
 Santos ? If he were only a priest who had 
 practically withdrawn from active functions, 
 it would not be so bad ; but this one makes 
 it his first duty to visit the newspapers and 
 declare that he wiQ not allow the duties of 
 the consulate to interfere with his higher 
 ecclesiastical functions, and, as proof of 
 this, he left the duties of the office yesterday 
 and came up to say a 30th day Mass for the 
 soul of a person connected with the Diario 
 Popular, and had it advertised far and 
 near." 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 
 
 There is one train up from Santos to Sao 
 
 Paulo at dawn and one after business hours. 
 
 A coffee merchant has extended the courtesy 
 
 of the club-car which daily brings and returns 
 
 the bankers and merchants of this busy but 
 
 sickly port. Half the men in this car are 
 
 Brazihau, some of pure Portuguese descent, 
 
 others with strains of African or Indian 
 
 blood; the remainder are German, English 
 
 and American. The journey takes two 
 
 hours and a half, so they proceed to play 
 
 poker, with a few exceptions, who prefer 
 
 chess or cribbage, or have a big "home 
 
 mail." They are all too accustomed to 
 
 these beautiful mountains to look out of the 
 
 windows as you do, except to count coffee 
 
 cars and estimate to-morrow's receipts. You 
 
 see many air-plants lodged among the trees 
 
 with spikes of pink blossoms, which look 
 72 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 73 
 
 like hyacinths at a little distance. Close 
 hy you ■would think the hyacinth much 
 prettier and like its fragrance better. The 
 tropical forest is an impenetrable thicket. 
 You see the face of it only. A car going 
 up the mountain must be attached to a cable 
 weighted at the other end by a balancing 
 car going down the parallel track. In this 
 way passengers and thousands of carloads of 
 coffee are transported by three successive, 
 long, steep inclines. At the top you wait 
 until all the cars of your train are cabled 
 up ; the train is joined and starts for Sao 
 Paulo, over level, open country. 
 
 Judging from the din of porters and car- 
 riages at the station, Sao Paulo is very much 
 alive. The hotel is in the midst of stores. 
 You are taken to a suite of two huge rooms 
 and asked a great price. You had said you 
 wanted one room. Argument ensues. The 
 rooms belong together. You affirm that 
 you will have but one. There is no access 
 to the farther room but through yours; 
 would you afflict the hotel ? You persist in 
 taking the one, and at night hear voices in 
 
74 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 the other and know the owners found their 
 resting-place by some other door than yours. 
 That was only a white he. That's nothing ! 
 
 After dinner you rest in an Austrian bent- 
 wood chair (the universally prized furniture, 
 with no upholstery for insects and damp- 
 ness, nor joints which come unglued), and 
 read your lesson ; for in traveling one reads 
 all the available literature about the place 
 one is visiting. It is little in English you 
 have found about the city of Sao Paulo. 
 You know it is now the educational center 
 of all Brazil : that it is more than three hun- 
 dred years old, with 200,000 people; that it 
 has furnished two Presidents for the new 
 republic, and many statesmen ; that it has a 
 charming mingling of tropical and temperate 
 climates : that England, Prance and Ger- 
 many have the import business rather than 
 the United States. 
 
 Coming down on the steamer you became 
 deeply interested in all you heard of it. A 
 nobleman, who shared his Emperor's banish- 
 ment ten years ago when the republic began, 
 was making a brief visit to his old home. 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 75 
 
 One day he said very sadly to some Amer- 
 ican people of Brazilian experience : " What 
 do you think of my country since the repub- 
 lic ? " The gentlemen replied : " It has 
 unproved in many ways." The Count said : 
 " You are republicans, of course ; yet is not 
 my country very different from yoiu;s ? " 
 "Yes, because there has been no education 
 of the common people, and they have not 
 been accustomed to self-control." Then an 
 outhne of what American missionary schools 
 are trying to do for all grades, " gentle and 
 simple," in this city, was given, to his great 
 surprise.* 
 
 Here are items you find in your reading : 
 " Less than thirty years ago it was com- 
 mon for men to lock their wives and daugh- 
 ters securely in the upper story when they 
 went to business, or if absent for any length 
 of time to deHver them to a convent for safe- 
 keeping. No respectable woman could go 
 alone on the streets of any of *the large 
 towns. 
 
 "The story of Puerto Rico, the Philip- 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
76 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 pines and Cuba is the story of Brazil and all 
 countries where Borne has held undisturbed 
 sway. In the seventeen and one-half mil- 
 lions of Roman Catholic Brazilians there is 
 82 per cent, of illiteracy and an enormous 
 per cent, of illegitimacy and crime. 
 
 "The first missionaries of the Presbyte- 
 rian Board landed in Brazil in 1860. Every 
 avenue to knowledge was held by the State 
 Church and the Jesuits had control. Pri- 
 vate schools were subject to priestly inspec- 
 tion. Protestantism was fiercely opposed by 
 State, Church and people. Men who dared 
 to preach the Gospel publicly, risked their 
 lives." 
 
 In 1885, their schools had been opened 
 fifteen years. " Under the influence of 
 Protestantism, or at any rate coincident with 
 the growth of Presbyterian schools and 
 churches in Brazil, new and more liberal 
 educational laws were enacted. Influences 
 were at work in society which in the near 
 future were to abolish slavery, overthrow 
 monarchy, set up a government of the people 
 and separate Church from State." 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 77 
 
 In 1889 " Mackenzie College" was begun. 
 In 1890 their record stands:- "A boys' 
 boarding school, a girls' boarding school, and 
 a day school in the rua Sao Joao, with thirteen 
 rooms for teaching purposes — a normal depart- 
 ment with four rooms, all full to overflowing 
 — an enrolment of four hundred and forty- 
 seven pupils in all grades from kindergarten 
 to high school. Eighteen primary schools in 
 different parts of the field with an efficient 
 corps of native teachers, and a self-support- 
 ing manual training school." 
 
 The report up to date (1900) is : " The 
 enrolment for the year was 546, with a very 
 high average attendance. There were 339 
 Brazilians, 48 Germans, 38 Itahans, 18 
 Americans, 14 French, 12 English and 17 
 of other nationalities. Roman Catholics, 
 427 ; Protestants, 117 ; Israelites, 2. This 
 completes the twenty-ninth year of the school 
 and the tenth year of the college." A foot- 
 note explains that the numbers have not 
 grown the last few years because there is 
 not an inch more room to put a pupil in. 
 
 The Rev. Geo. W- Chamberlain was the 
 
78 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 founder of these schools. At the beginning 
 boys and girls had not been accustomed to 
 meet each other with any freedom. Evil 
 was very evil and very universal. A Brazil- 
 ian General of high rank, and the last Gov- 
 ernor of the province of Sao Paulo under 
 Emperor Dom Pedro, General Couto Magel- 
 haes (Magellan, a descendant of the old ex- 
 plorer), later became Mr. Chamberlain's 
 friend, and begged for more American teach- 
 ers and a larger school for co-education ! ! 
 as he had now seen it developed. Indeed he 
 said, " The only hope of Brazil lies in such 
 co-educational schools." Query. Did Prof. 
 Agassiz plant the germ of this thought when 
 they went up the Amazon together ? 
 
 Next day you take a carriage and try to 
 get a general sense of the town. You have 
 heard the State of Sao Paulo called the " New 
 England of Brazil." But if you call the 
 city of Sao Paulo the Boston, the difference 
 is most apparent. The narrow, crooked 
 streets are similar, but the buildings are like 
 those in all Spanish and Portuguese towns. 
 
 As you go down the poorer streets. 
 
THE CITY OP SAO PAULO. 79 
 
 one ■word comes to you at every turn 
 of your eye, " unclean " — the children, the 
 grown-ups, the houses, the streets, even the 
 emblem of the Holy Spirit which an ap- 
 pointed solicitor of his parish church carries 
 while he begs funds for the celebration of 
 the annual holiday of this member of the 
 Trinity. When I saw one of these I mistook 
 it at a little distance for a pole with a cast- 
 off bonnet on top — a cluster of dilapidated 
 artificial flowers and a bird. Investigation 
 proved the latter a dove ! 
 
 While many streets are lined with one- 
 story hovels, there are many broad and quite 
 well-paved thoroughfares, and you see these 
 with pleasure. Solid walls higher than your 
 head shut most of the pretty gardens from 
 view, but you get glimpses of comfortable 
 one and two-story houses, the bright colors 
 soft and pleasing. Now and then the Por- 
 tuguese style is supplanted by the French 
 mansard, and you may guess the owner has 
 been to Paris. Indeed, if he travels far 
 in any direction, he must go on horseback, 
 or on the Atlantic. 
 
80 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Gas, electric lights, street-car lines, sewers, 
 public buildings, and parks, all add to the 
 comfort of living in this old metropolis. 
 
 You drive through the finest part of town 
 on your way to the Avenida (Boulevard) 
 and to see the modern reservoir with fine 
 water-works, and isolating hospital, just built 
 by an ambitious government. On the slope 
 of the ridge up which you drive, you see 
 for a long distance a plain, square, sub- 
 stantial three-story, buff brick structure. 
 "What is that?" "Mackenzie College." 
 In this city of ornate architecture and bril- 
 liant coloring this solid plainness is nearly 
 droll. But it is just so much more notice- 
 able. Everybody knows Mackenzie College. 
 The low, insufficient dormitory, house for 
 Httle boys, manual training shop and Presi- 
 dent's dweUing dot the campus, not a foot 
 of which can be spared to be sold if only 
 they can get money to build a dormitory. 
 Descending to the town again you pass the 
 new Government Normal School building and 
 go to see the teachers at the Sao Joao 
 school. Plain brick again. Heavy wall 
 
THE CITY OP SAO PAULO. 81 
 
 around the grounds. What a bee-hive 
 inside ! You go through one full school- 
 room after another with Miss Scott. The 
 children are so well disciplined they scarcely 
 notice you. The faces are pretty and bright. 
 What surprises you most are the exquisite 
 writing of the young Brazilian teachers on 
 the black-boards, the order and attention in 
 every room whether governed by American 
 teachers or Brazilian who have been trained 
 here, the devotion of the wee new scholars 
 to Miss Baxter and the perfect cleanhness, 
 system and good food which Miss Munson 
 secures. Surely Dr. Lane and Miss Scott, 
 who guide this combination day and girls' 
 boarding-school, ought to be happy, thankful 
 and proud, and the men and women in the 
 U. S. whose gifts have made this school a 
 possibility ought to be grateful also. The 
 children come from families of the rich and 
 the poor, of title and missionaries, of many 
 nationalities, and differing rehgious belief. 
 But the mental and moral discipline has 
 challenged the attention of the Government 
 to such an extent that it has been building 
 
82 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 several remarkable buildings for schools, and 
 teachers trained in this " American School " 
 have been invited to assist in developing the 
 work in them. Many are the tales you wiU 
 be told, while you stay, of a Boston school- 
 ma'am who was lent by the American school 
 to inaugurate the first years of work in the 
 new Government Normal School. The ques- 
 tion of Bible and religion in the Govern- 
 ment schools is the same in Sao Paido and 
 Chicago, but the other religious opportu- 
 nities and influences are not the same. If 
 any education of our Protestant type is given 
 to BraziHan youth (not sectarian, but Prot- 
 estant) it cannot be left to Brazilian foster- 
 ing. Infidelity, spiritualism, and materiaHsm 
 abound. 
 
 When Sunday comes you can choose be- 
 tween three Protestant services, two Presby- 
 terian and one Methodist, all in Portuguese, 
 or the Church of England service in Eng- 
 lish. Perhaps you prefer to go early to 
 mass. There is ample opportunity for that, 
 and then the day would be a free holiday, 
 so says the majority in the city. 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 83 
 
 You may go to the Catholic cemetery on 
 high ground, commanding a fine view of the 
 city. In the thick wall surrounding it are 
 receiving cells for coffins, which can be 
 rented for varying lengths of time. It is a 
 reproduction of such a place in Spain, the 
 West Indies or New Orleans, including the 
 durable wreaths of flowers made of metal, of 
 bisque or of beads, often also photographs 
 under glass. Women never go to a funeral. 
 The hearses and coffins are of brilliant colors, 
 purple, or scarlet, or yellow, and gold. 
 
 You must watch the people come and go 
 at the hotel and amuse yourself again with 
 their trunks. Here is a complete set of 
 French ones — real Louis Vuittons made for 
 every sort of contents, even one for the huge 
 tin wash-pan which will be used for my lady's 
 clothes. How long since you had seen a real 
 old-time " hair-trunk," i. e., a trunk covered 
 with calf-skin with its hair on ! Here they 
 are, studded with brass nails, initials and all I 
 But the tin trunks were the drollest, till you 
 finally bought one yourself and found how 
 well it kept out dampness. The tin ones 
 
84 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 are all sizes and all colors — decorated. 
 Yours is a nice bright blue, with red roses 
 painted in a stiff bunch on top. 
 
 You are rapidly learning the value 
 of sunshine in damp chmates. You hang 
 out your clothing and shoes at least once a 
 week in the hot sun until the particles of 
 mold are entirely dry, so they will not be 
 pasty, then brush them thoroughly. Your 
 gloves you buy, without metal buttons, 
 which discolor, only a few at a time, and 
 keep them with lumps of dry ammonia in a 
 tight glass jar or tin biscuit box. You do 
 not trim your dresses with steel. That 
 would rust. When you buy a new hat-pin 
 it has a gilt or brass, not a steel, pin. You 
 keep an eye to your needles and scissors. 
 
 A few insects will give you something to 
 talk about when you reach home, but they 
 are not much more troublesome than home- 
 pests. 
 
 The flea (pulga) takes the place of mos- 
 quitoes. He does not keep you awake with 
 singing, and if you compel careful cleaning 
 of your rooms and do not cherish vagabond 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 85 
 
 dogs you will not find him a serious trial 
 after the first fortnight or so. I do not 
 know whether it was a truth spoken in jest 
 or how to characterize the assertion of an 
 old resident who said that his own home 
 fleas never bit him. It was only in other 
 people's houses that he suffered. One does 
 at least seem to grow bite-proof. 
 
 A borachuda bite is more rare but more 
 interesting. He looks like a feeble baby 
 fly. He bites your hand in the shadow, on 
 the sly, and the spot indurates besides in- 
 flaming, and lasts longer than the other 
 sorts of bite, but is not serious. 
 
 The barata is like a huge cockroach. He 
 loves leather, shoes, traveling bags, passe- 
 partouts, book-bindings. Starch and glue 
 are also acceptable articles of diet to him. 
 With strict housekeeping he is banished. 
 You see how convenient a tin trunk will be 
 if you really travel in all sorts of places, to 
 protect a few of your valuables, now and 
 then. 
 
 Now you know the worst there is to know, 
 unless it may be the early puzzles of an 
 
86 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 American housekeeper here. First as to ice. 
 You can get some if you will, but most peo- 
 ple do not. It is considered most unwhole- 
 some to drink ice-water. I cannot myself 
 see the superiority of an evaporating water- 
 jar of porous terra cotta, for it has a slender 
 neck and could only be rinsed, never washed 
 and absolutely cleansed, I should think. I 
 admit the chill of the ice-water may be bad 
 in yellow-fever regions. Most people and 
 most shops have no refrigerators. Meat is 
 eaten the day it is killed, and is called came 
 verde, green meat. This is the tempting 
 label on butchers' carts. I remember going 
 to dine with a lady who was a fine house- 
 keeper. The turkey was as tender as one 
 from Rhode Island or Philadelphia. I 
 asked the secret. She said that before it 
 was killed that morning she had fed it 
 whisky until it staggered. 
 
 Every house of pretension has its " dis- 
 pense," or locked closet, from which the 
 housekeeper every morning counts out or 
 weighs out exactly what is to be used 
 by the cook for the meals of the day. 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 87 
 
 The cook usually goes to market, being 
 able to beat down the prices to the 
 proper point -with better grace than the 
 presiding genius of the house. Besides he 
 or she can bring home the purchases in a 
 basket, and there is no further doubt as to 
 whether the article purchased is the one 
 delivered. The great markets are worth a 
 visit. You will go at least to the chief one, 
 in the heart of town, in a great, light mar- 
 ket-building which would be a credit any- 
 where. 
 
 You visit an English bride who came with 
 her new husband on your steamer, and is to 
 live in Sao Paulo. Her wedding presents 
 have been delayed in the custom house, and 
 are but just received after paying duties the 
 equal of $400, in American money ! It 
 was only the usual collection of gifts to the 
 average bride, but the duties are excessive 
 on silverware and on any bric-a-brac or 
 furniture having gilt mountings. Fabrics 
 and even rugs are dutiable by weight. You 
 have lifted an Oriental rug. She had one. 
 She also had, unfortunately, a whole " bolt 
 
88 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 of American muslin" — too close-woven and 
 heavy for Brazilian customs. She is trying 
 to decide whether her sala shall be al- 
 together British or partly BraziHan in ar- 
 rangement. An afternoon tea-table will 
 seem like home to her. She settles upon 
 bentwood furniture, cane-seated of course, 
 and arranges sofa and chairs with elastic 
 reference to BraziUan custom. The sofa 
 occupies a prominent place, two mate arm- 
 chairs face each other at right angles to the 
 sofa, making three sides of a conversational 
 square, nicely accommodating four persons. 
 The genuine Brazilian would go on adding 
 to the two chairs at least two more on either 
 side of the sofa. His guest would take the 
 chair farthest from the sofa while waiting 
 for the host, and a seat on the sofa at the 
 end of the aisle of chairs would be the high 
 honor which could be extended by the host 
 when he comes in. 
 
 She has an oil-stove, too, which is an oc- 
 casional comfort in the cool evening or on a 
 rainy day when even an umbrella will not 
 dry. 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. S9 
 
 Her handsome mahogany furniture is a 
 comparative trial here, for the Brazilians 
 have a cheaper hard wood of the same color 
 from which many ordinary articles are made, 
 and some other would have been far more 
 elegant, black walnut for instance ! 
 
 You are by this time entirely accustomed 
 to the universal toothpick, smoothly made 
 of orangewood, really a perfection of a 
 toothpick ; for every Brazilian has used one 
 at intervals throughout every meal on the 
 steamer and at hotels since you left Lisbon ; 
 also to the universal cigarette, welcome in din- 
 ing-room and salon. You also find that they 
 hold American dentists in high esteem, and 
 there are several good ones in PetropoUs, 
 Rio and Sao Paulo. 
 
 Walking down the street men hft their 
 hats as they pass each Bomish church. 
 Every sort of package is carried on porters' 
 heads, and the colored porters often fall 
 into a rhythmical walk or trot as peculiar 
 to them as the flourish of a black waiter in 
 a restaurant in America. 
 
 A pleasant invitation comes to you to at- 
 
90 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 tend the English cricket match, a gay affair, 
 ■with plenty to eat — and drink. 
 
 I remember while I was in Sao Paulo one 
 cool July day talking over the news of the 
 last package of New York Heralds (the 
 paper, or its Paris edition, taken largely by 
 American exiles in Brazil), with an Anglo- 
 Brazilian friend. We had been discussing 
 the unwholesomeness of ice. I showed her 
 the subscription list to the " Herald Ice Fund 
 for the Poor of New York City!" She 
 could only think it $10,000 misplaced ! So 
 true is it that one needs really to live in a 
 given climate or place to really appreciate 
 its requirements. 
 
 Frequently, evenings, there is a blaze of 
 fireworks for saints you do not know. One 
 day you are invited to go with a party to 
 the " Penha," one of the Madonna festivals, 
 perhaps the greatest one here. It is cele- 
 brated a little distance from town, with 
 scores of roulette wheels, and the people 
 save their earnings for some time to gamble 
 there to their hearts' content. 
 
 When I was in Sao Paulo a General Con- 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 91 
 
 ference of Methodist missionaries convened. 
 The men had come from long distances, sev- 
 eral of them remote from railroad or sea- 
 board. I went to their farewell meeting. 
 It was held in a plain, whitewashed room. 
 We were seated on long benches. There 
 was little modern style about the garments 
 or evidence of high living in the cheeks or 
 eyes. Bishop Granbery presided with gen- 
 tle dignity. Dr. Morrison made the address. 
 He began by quoting the text, "Lay not 
 up for yourselves treasures upon earth, 
 where moth and rust doth corrupt, and 
 where thieves break through and steal, but 
 lay up for yourselves treasures in heaven." 
 Looking about with a quiet, half-sarcastic 
 smile, he said : " Brethren, I do not think 
 any one will accuse any one here of laying 
 up treasures on earth. Let us talk about 
 treasures in heaven. Any of you who has 
 found a poor, ignorant, debased soul here, 
 and has patiently put his own life beside 
 that life, and taught and developed and 
 strengthened that life by God's help so that 
 it is purer, holier, more Ghristlike, will find 
 
92 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 some treasure laid up in heaven. It will be 
 the difference between that soul as he found 
 it and what it becomes." I have had many 
 occasions to recall that bit of sermon in my 
 knowledge of American missionaries and 
 their helpful work in Brazil, and so, I be- 
 lieve, will you. 
 
 It will always be a pleasure to remem- 
 ber the hospitality of both merchants and 
 missionaries. Before leaving Sao Paulo, 
 you must accept the offer of Dr. Lane, 
 President of Mackenzie CoUege, to go through 
 not only his own preparatory classes and 
 college, where you will find the first working 
 laboratory for chemistry in a Brazilian school 
 and the first manual training school, as well 
 as plenty of classic Portuguese, Latin, and 
 other things, but go through the Govern- 
 ment schools as well, where he is always an 
 honored guest. Then go to Cantareira with 
 Prof. Orville A. Derby, the eminent Govern- 
 ment geologist, and the young professors of 
 the college. It is an easy day's excursion to 
 the source of the water supply for the city. 
 A train of open cars takes you through old 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 93' 
 
 gardens of roses, and out to the mountain 
 streams, enclosed by first-rate engineering, 
 and filtered and reservoired amid gardens 
 and masonry most attractive. You can 
 study a cofEee-tree (or bush) of your own 
 height, with shiny green leaves and bright 
 red cherries, the pits of which are two coffee- 
 beans lying with their flat sides together, 
 and recall the enthusiastic description of a 
 man who has just returned from a trip to 
 a great coffee plantation in the interior. 
 
 " As one rides on horseback between the 
 rows of coffee-trees his head is hardly visible 
 above them. Call to mind the hedgerows 
 of England, stretch them in straight, long 
 lines with just room between for the pickers. 
 A space twenty-five feet wide between every 
 hundred rows is a road for carts, but there 
 are no cross streets. Starting from the 
 edge of the fazenda (plantation) quite rapid 
 riding for two hours brings one to the center 
 view from a dome-shaped hill. In all direc- 
 tions as far as the eye can see there is noth- 
 ing but coffee trees. The only visible 
 ground is the deep red earth of the streets 
 
94 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 separating each hundred rows. It is a roll- 
 ing prairie of living green, on a colossal 
 scale. Two months earher the blossoms 
 covered it 'like a white sheet.' A Httle 
 later this green will be brilhant with red 
 cherries, the branches heavily weighted down 
 by the fruit. This fazenda has 1,600,000 
 bearing coffee trees. The next has nearly 
 4,000,000 trees and is the largest in the 
 world. Now -I understand how this State 
 produces more coffee even in a bad year than 
 all the rest of the world outside of Brazil 
 combined. Its possibilities in a good year 
 are nearly double the crops other than those 
 of Brazil. The quality is altogether finer 
 than that known in the United States as 
 Rio. This is what has brought English and 
 German capital, increased the population of 
 the city of Sad Paulo to 200,000 from 60,- 
 
 000 in 1884, and made the commerce of 
 Santos what it is. Italians and Germans 
 both work on these plantations and the one 
 
 1 have just described, which I have just 
 visited, has fifteen hundred people living on 
 the fazenda and constantly employed. The 
 
THE CITY OF SAO PAULO. 95 
 
 larger plantation, 'the Fazenda Dumont,' 
 had a railroad of some twenty miles for use 
 on the plantation, and its connecting line 
 running through the * Fazenda Schmidt,' 
 was used by Mr, Schmidt, my hospitable 
 host, for shipping his coffee to the trunk 
 line and so on down to Santos." 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 It is October. You choose to leave here 
 before it grows too ■warm. The young 
 spring buds are abready adding their delicate 
 green to the darker old foliage. 
 
 Rio is reached by rail in fourteen hours. 
 You would like to go home in one of the 
 great New Zealand steamers which makes 
 the round trip from London to London in 
 ninety days, and which always carries charm- 
 ing passengers for the whole voyage by Suez, 
 New Zealand, Straits of Magellan, Rio de 
 Janeiro, Madeira, London. Everybody here 
 knows what variety is provided by this 
 journey, not only of interesting sights in 
 port, but of amusement of every description 
 at sea. They also know when one of these 
 steamers has arrived by the unwonted varie- 
 ties of game, vegetables, and well-hung beef 
 
 and mutton in the markets. 
 
 96 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 97 
 
 No. You decide to go directly to New 
 York, for you have come by way of England, 
 so sail on the " Wordsworth." Even she is 
 English and there is no longer an American 
 Line. You will touch at Bahia, Pernambuco, 
 and St. Lucia, one of the West Indies, and 
 see New York harbor in twenty-four days 
 from Rio. 
 
 Bahia you saw hurriedly on the way 
 down, but it looks even more attractive as 
 you approach it the second time. It is in- 
 vested with some added interest, also, since 
 learning that the court came here from 
 Portugal for shelter in Napoleonic times; 
 and that this city has always been the center 
 of Jesuitical influence. 
 
 The Bahian blacks, a finer race of negroes 
 than you have ever seen, and said to have 
 been Mohammedans, make a very strong 
 impression now. They are physically superb. 
 The low-necked, short-sleeved linen garment 
 worn by the women is frequently beautified 
 with " drawn-work." The great strings of 
 gold beads around their necks are their sub- 
 stitute for a bank account, for banks are 
 7 
 
98 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 not a convenience to a people who cannot 
 read. 
 
 The Bahian oranges are like the finest 
 Floridas, and far superior to any others you 
 have had. Bananas are everywhere the 
 food of the poor, and not better than are for 
 sale at home, and other tropical fruits have 
 been a disappointment. 
 
 At Pernambuco you find you own the 
 wonderful reef, and the pine-apples, and the 
 catamarans ; for have you not seen them 
 before, and do they not now prove them- 
 selves old friends and permanent posses- 
 sions ! 
 
 The next many days are a repetition of 
 your former oceanic, tropical temperatures, 
 with far fewer passengers, and less ceremony, 
 perhaps. The sea, however, seems trying 
 to compensate you for other lacks by fur- 
 nishing interesting creatures for you to 
 watch. There are numberless flying fish, 
 frightened from the water by your ship, and 
 the delicate, little, pink " Portuguese men- 
 of-war," as the sailors call them, go dancing 
 by on the surface of the water in tantalizing 
 
L'OFl-'LE WASHlMj. 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 99 
 
 beauty. Do not be sorry that you cannot 
 get one, for, trailing from that shining 
 pink bladder, there are processes which 
 sting like nettles. 
 
 For a few days you seem almost to be 
 crossing a wheat-field as you take a long 
 look across the water yellow with gulf-weed 
 which has been thrown off by the gulf 
 stream and floats at rest on this quiet sea. 
 Take a fish hne and catch some pretty 
 branches, look at the little fruit which 
 grows upon them and gives the name, 
 grapes, to the sea. It is called by its 
 Spanish form the Sargasso Sea. 
 
 St. Lucia pleases you to see for several 
 reasons. You like a day in port. You like 
 to know what this one of the West Indies is 
 Uke. You enjoy the negroes diving under 
 the ship for coins you throw in the water as 
 you did before at St. Vincent, and, on the 
 whole, though you have had a rarely charm- 
 ing summer, you are glad to cable that you 
 are well and leaving your last port before 
 your arrival home. 
 
 The cool October days of the North 
 
100 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 Atlantic demand again the rugs and warmer 
 ■wraps which haye been needed now and then 
 since the journey was begun. As the fresh 
 air blows in your face you are delighted to 
 find yourself so rested and so easily chal- 
 lenged to an expenditure of energy. 
 
 But there are other passengers whose res- 
 idence in Brazil numbers years of work in- 
 stead of weeks of pleasure. They have 
 found themselves unable to conquer some 
 attack of disease without the bracing and 
 stimulating aid of a more rigorous climate. 
 They are longing for cold and snow. The 
 Brazilian air which has relaxed and rested 
 you has become enervating to them . Foreign 
 merchants and Bank managers expect six 
 months' furlough once in three years. Mis- 
 sionaries get a year's recruiting once in 
 eight years. Anxious relatives were notified 
 before these workers left Brazil that the 
 wrecks were going home. Who would be- 
 lieve that twenty-four days of sea-voyage 
 cotdd make such different looking beings of 
 these invalids ! The prospect of home and 
 old familiar scenes and foods seems happiness 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 101 
 
 enough to put new life into anyone, one 
 thinks, in watching these returning exiles. 
 
 Familiar faces are waiting on the dock. 
 Good-by. Ate logo. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 AN AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS 
 IN BRAZIL. 
 
 Nbaely thirty years ago an attempt was 
 made to adapt the American system of 
 schools to Brazil, South America, where 
 social conditions and pohtical aspirations are 
 somewhat analogous to our own, and we set 
 about to find out what the American system 
 really was. We sought it in the official 
 courses, which usually cover the whole 
 domain of knowledge ; in the voluminous 
 reports of Superintendents, reeking with 
 erudition and statistics ; in the schools 
 and colleges of the different States, which 
 we visited and studied, and in the great 
 educational conventions. We found such 
 a lack of uniformity of thought, of or- 
 ganization, and even of purpose and prin- 
 ciples, as to leave us in doubt as to whether 
 103 
 
AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS. 103 
 
 we had as yet a distinctively American 
 system. In some places there was genuine 
 education, in others they were simply drilling 
 for examination, and not a whit better than 
 the Chinese. We made an extended tour of 
 European institutions for a comparative 
 study, and found many special processes and 
 devices that could be engrafted, and singu- 
 larly enough, that some of the German 
 methods had their best development in the 
 United States, but no complete system that 
 could be profitably taken over en hloc. The 
 great problem of how best to influence the 
 heterogeneous masses which flock to the 
 shores of both Americas and make them into 
 good citizens is not touched by the European 
 systems. The problem is not exactly how 
 to teach this or that special branch, but how 
 to co-ordinate the work and relate all 
 branches to the rapidly changing conditions 
 of American society. The problem is the 
 same in both Americas. 
 
 We found it difficult to follow the verti- 
 ginous activity of American educators along 
 all lines or to wade through the voluminous 
 
104 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 literature which accompanies it, brought 
 from the ends of the earth ; but, believing 
 that there was a truly American system in 
 process of development, we tried to catch the 
 trend of thought and anticipate the results. 
 Entirely free, unhampered by politics or pre- 
 cedent ; with no fads or need of seeking 
 favor of governments or patrons, but at lib- 
 erty to select what was best from all sources, 
 it will be readily conceded that we had a 
 decided advantage over the educational 
 reformer of our own country. 
 
 The following, in brief outline, has been 
 in operation for the fourteen years in the 
 American schools at S. Paulo, Brazil, as a 
 result of our study, and has been eminently 
 satisfactory. 
 
 1. A primary school of five years, with a 
 minimum of 100 school days of five hours 
 each per annum, for the ungraded country 
 schools, and 210 (a full school year) for the 
 graded city schools. This course embraces 
 Reading, Writing and the four operations 
 of Arithmetic. Arithmetic is made the test 
 of advancement, but great attention is also 
 
AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS. 105 
 
 paid to Expression and Language, and, 
 very early, small vocabularies of the tvx) 
 modern languages, that are to be studied 
 systematically later, are introduced by the 
 " natural method" (French and English by 
 French and English teachers), with pleasure 
 and profit to the pupils ; thus in the very 
 beginning of school life the habit of compar- 
 ing modes of expression is cultivated, which 
 later will be applied to processes. Through 
 Geography the study of nature is begun and 
 our relations to the world in which we live 
 are studied ; through Manual training, and 
 the drawing preliminary to it, things and 
 their relations are studied and the child is 
 taught to do and see as well as to think. 
 This is that part of education which society, 
 for its own safety, must demand for every 
 girl and boy in the land. It is all that can 
 be given to the masses, the very poor, the 
 wage-earner's children, who must go to work 
 early in life. Very bright pupils, with in- 
 tellectual surroundings, may complete this 
 course easily in four years, as many have 
 done far better than others in five. 
 
106 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 2. A Secondary course of six years divided 
 into two periods of three years each. This 
 is an expansion of the primary, extending 
 mathematics to meet all requirements of 
 practical life; cultivating carefully the 
 mother tongue, giving some notions of the 
 two modern languages ; thorough training in 
 Brazilian Geography and History, with out- 
 lines of General History and Geography; 
 Manual training and mechanical drawing, 
 etc. This first section embraces that part of 
 an education essential to good citizenship, 
 within reach of all, but not compulsory — a 
 short Grammar school course. The second 
 section is a preparation for College, without, 
 however, special reference to a college course. 
 In it the two modern languages are finished ; 
 Algebra and Geometry are studied, Latin 
 begun, etc., going about a year further than 
 the average High-school course of the United 
 States. This completes the common school 
 system and prepares the pupil for the high- 
 est duties of citizenship. 
 
 The bright pupil who has finished the 
 primary course in four years may complete 
 
AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS. 107 
 
 this in five. This has been frequently done, 
 and is the rule for those preparing for 
 College. 
 
 The student who does this is ready for 
 College at fifteen. 
 
 We believe the tendency of American 
 education is to return somewhat to the 
 Sumanities, enrich the secondary school 
 with studies heretofore included in the ad- 
 vanced courses, and thus shorten the College 
 course. This is the language period of life, 
 and fourteen years' experience has shown us 
 that the two modern languages can be easily 
 carried parallel to the mother tongue, with 
 benefit to the pupil. It furnishes excellent 
 mental discipline and has the advantage of 
 awakening the habit of comparison earlier. 
 There is a slight sacrifice of the mathema- 
 tical or scientific side, which is pushed into 
 the next division where it logically belongs. 
 
 The first division in this system aims to 
 reach the great mass of society and force it 
 up to the level of safe and intelUgent citizen- 
 ship. The second reaches after the great 
 middle class and purposes to fit its members 
 
108 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 for the highest duties of citizenship, as well 
 as equip them for trade, manufactures and 
 all legitimate activities, at public expense. 
 It gives a sufficient amount of formulated 
 knowledge and mental training to enable 
 them to continue their studies independently 
 through the opportimities afforded by the 
 Press, public libraries and lectures. 
 
 The next step embraces three years of a 
 culture course for that comparatively small 
 class who desire to take a profession, or wish 
 a liberal education in literature, art and 
 sciences, as a stepping-stone to still more ad- 
 vanced studies. Entrance to this class ought 
 to be guarded by severe tests in order to ex- 
 clude the weak-brained who want a degree 
 simply as an ornament and because they can 
 pay for it. The brainy, poor young man can 
 always find means. This is the College, re- 
 duced to three years. It lies between the 
 public school system and the specialized 
 University courses, — not absolutely neces- 
 sary but highly advisable. It is where the 
 student is thrown into the larger current 
 of independent action and takes on the 
 
AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS. 109 
 
 responsibilities as well as the privileges of 
 manhood, either to prepare for entrance into 
 the higher spheres of active life or to enter 
 upon other studies. 
 
 This gives a minimum of school Hfe, at 
 public expense, of four years and a maximum 
 of eleven years. 
 
 Education will, therefore, be finished at 
 these ages : The large class of children of 
 the very poor, at ten or eleven years. An- 
 other class wiU go out at the end of the 
 first period of the secondary (the old Gram- 
 mar course) and enter society fairly well 
 equipped for the ordinary pursuits of life at 
 twelve or thirteen. The second class com- 
 pletes school life, at the end of the pubhc 
 school course, at the age of fourteen or 
 fifteen, well educated ; a still smaller class 
 completes the liberal College course at seven- 
 teen or eighteen, while the winnowing of all 
 classes produces the comparatively small 
 group of scholais and professionals who are 
 able to enter life fully equipped, with such 
 knowledge as can be obtained from books, 
 at twenty-one to twenty-two. The student 
 
110 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 who skips the College and short-circuits from 
 the High School to the University may 
 graduate from his professional course with ' 
 honor at nineteen or twenty, but will always 
 lack that something that enables the man 
 with the wider culture and discipline to win 
 in the race of life. 
 
 The points in which the foregoing differs 
 from the plan commonly adopted in United 
 States are : the introduction of two modern 
 languages at the language period of life, for 
 their own value, to improve the study of the 
 mother tongue and to develop earlier the 
 comparative process as mental discipline; 
 the shortening of the College course to three 
 years and reducing school life by at least 
 two and possibly three years, leaving some 
 of the enthusiasm of youth for the first 
 years of independent self-supporting life, 
 also shortening the period of parental sup- 
 port. 
 
 No attempt is made here to indicate the 
 exact organization of the various courses ; 
 the purpose and logical distribution is what 
 is sought to show. We have been able to 
 
AMERICAN SYSTEM OF SCHOOLS. HI 
 
 see the finished product of the system and 
 feel sure it is an improvement upon the old 
 plan. This is the system of schools known 
 as " Mackenzie College " and the " Eschola 
 Americana" at S. Paulo, Brazil, and is in- 
 tended to serve, in a modest way, as a model 
 of American education for Brazil. — Dr. H. 
 M. Lane, in The Brazilian Bulletin. 
 
RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION IN 
 SCHOOLS. 
 
 There is much vague talk about religious 
 teaching, its relation to other branches, the 
 time that can be given to it, its character, 
 etc. 
 
 In order to show what we think about it, 
 we venture to give extracts from our last an- 
 nual circular to the teachers of the American 
 schools at S. Paulo on the subject. 
 
 General considerations to which the atten- 
 tion of young teachers is called : 
 
 1. — The opening of school is not a relig- 
 ious ceremony, but a devotional exercise. 
 If arranged with skill it may be made so 
 attractive to children that none will want to 
 miss it (thus tardiness may be diminished) ; 
 if it holds attention, it cannot fail to teach 
 
 the lesson. 
 
 112 
 
RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION IN SCHOOLS. 113 
 
 2. — We may easily overestimate the value 
 of perfunctory religious exercises, as we may 
 also overestimate the capacity of children to 
 understand formulated reUffious truth. The 
 child's perceptions are duller in this than in 
 other branches of knowledge, where his senses 
 are engaged, hence the necessity of grad- 
 ing it more carefully and watching its effects 
 more closely. 
 
 3. — Schools are not chiefly, nor primarily, 
 to teach religion, i. e., to instruct in creeds. 
 Considered in its relation to courses of study, 
 religious instruction is a means for the de- 
 velopment of character and for giving a sure 
 foundation for moral training; but, in its 
 relation to the pupil, it is an absolute end ; 
 giving to him, as he can comprehend it, the 
 saving truths of Christianity. 
 
 The first is directly related to courses of 
 study and from it definite results may be 
 expected ; the other depends upon the subtle 
 and immeasurable spiritual power of the 
 Christian teacher, and no definite results 
 can be demanded. The first has a recogniz- 
 able, educational value and its correlates are 
 
114 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 easily found ; the other has no appreciable 
 relation to hours of recitation or quantity of 
 matter and cannot enter into any plan of 
 correlation of studies. It touches all studies 
 and permeates all methods, the greatest re- 
 sult often coming from the least matter ; its 
 educational value, therefore, cannot be meas- 
 ured. 
 
 4. — We may not safely assume that the 
 child has received from parents or church 
 proper religious instruction, but we may sup- 
 pose, in nominally Christian lands, that it 
 has some ideas, however vague and erroneous, 
 of God. It is the duty of the teacher to 
 adjust these ideas to the truth, and so relate 
 them to the child that he laajfeel sure that 
 there is a God, — though he cannot see Him, 
 — Who is AU-wise, All-seeing, All-powerful : 
 who is everywhere and who loves him, the 
 child, personally ; that God is his Heavenly 
 Father ; that the Bible is God's Word, sent 
 to him, the child, and to everybody else ; 
 that God sent His Son to save the world ; 
 that Christ is God and God is Christ ; that 
 God made everything, — even we ourselves 
 
RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION IN SCHOOLS. 115 
 
 are the work of His hand. These are fun- 
 damentals, and must precede all other instruc- 
 tion. The clearness with which the chil- 
 dren perceive these truths will depend largely 
 upon the skill and spiritual power of the 
 teacher. 
 
 5. — The teacher should carefully avoid 
 lecturing little children on religious subjects- 
 Do not let the idea that the Bible is a Prot- 
 estant book get a foothold in the school. 
 The three things essential to religious teach- 
 ing are : 1. — The Holy Bible, God's Word. 
 2. — Sacred Song. 3. — With very small pu- 
 pils, in fact with any pupils, the most im- 
 portant factor is the Christian teacher, who 
 works through personal influence, contact, 
 example of Christian living and doing — 
 (slow to anger and quick to forgive). Every 
 child must be made to feel that the teacher 
 is interested in him personally ; and the 
 teacher must watch closely the child's grow- 
 ing power to appreciate spiritual things. 
 
 6. — The Bible furnishes abundant mate- 
 rial for all grades of religious instruction, 
 from the kindergarten to the college. It 
 
116 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 abounds in romantic and intensely interest- 
 ing episodes calculated to excite the imagi- 
 nation, interest the young and fix the atten- 
 tion, — ^if the teacher have the skill to adapt 
 it to the demands of the child, as he is 
 obliged to adapt other branches of school 
 work. 
 
 7. — ^Every Christian teacher should be a 
 diligent student of the Bible, particularly 
 the New Testament. Very little formal in- 
 struction can be given in religion in the 
 lower primary grades, much, however, is 
 taught by seeing the conduct and feeling 
 the touch of the teacher who has heard the 
 " follow Me " spoken to Andrew and 
 Simon. 
 
 8. — ^No revival or pulpit methods, no 
 pressure of an emotional kind is to be made 
 in any department of the school to induce 
 children to become Protestants. Protestant- 
 ism is not to be lauded nor Romanism at- 
 tacked. The Word of God is a cure for all 
 false beliefs and a sure guide to right 
 living. 
 
 The above precedes the specific directions 
 
RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION IN SCHOOLS. 117 
 
 for the organization of the work in the dif- 
 ferent grades, — selections of Scripture, 
 hymns, Bible narrative, etc., and is enough 
 to show the principles on which we proceed. 
 — Dr. M. M, Lane. 
 
FACTS ABOUT BRAZIL. 
 
 Brazil is one-fifteenth of the habitable 
 world, one-fifth of both Americas, three- 
 sevenths of South America. It is larger 
 than the United States and her territories 
 (leaving out Alaska), and fourteen times as 
 large as Prance. It has a coast-line of 
 nearly five thousand miles and possesses 
 forty-two seaports, among which are the 
 largest and best of the world. Within these 
 limits are found the unexplored and almost 
 boundless selvas of the great Amazonian 
 basin in the north, a large slice of the rich 
 pampas in the south, and by far the largest 
 of the three great elevated masses that con- 
 stitute the bulk of the continent, in the 
 center. These table lands, well watered, weU 
 timbered and possessing a cUmate unparalleled 
 in the tropic regions of the earth, represent 
 
 about foui^sevenths of the whole country. 
 
 118 
 
FACTS ABOUT BRAZIL. 119 
 
 As a rule the high plateaus are of exceptional 
 salubrity. These broad areas of fertile 
 farming land, rich pastures and almost 
 inexhaustible suppUes of timber and minerals 
 are rendered easily accessible through the 
 natural highways furnished by the three 
 great river systems — the Amazon on the 
 north, the La Plata on the south, the San 
 Francisco in the center. The Amazon, 
 among its numerous affluents and tributaries, 
 numbers twenty rivers larger than the Rhine, 
 and it holds in its mouth an island larger 
 than Switzerland, almost as large as England. 
 
 The material resources of Brazil are 
 almost incalculable. The range of its produc- 
 tions embraces the products of both the 
 temperate and torrid zones — the cereals, 
 cattle, sheep, horses, cotton, sugar, cofEee, 
 rice, rubber, drugs, dye-stuffs, precious 
 metals, iron and other minerals. 
 
 The climate of Brazil is varied, and on 
 the whole very favorable. Being on the 
 eastern side of the continent, it is milder 
 and more healthful, even on the coast, than 
 the corresponding latitudes on the west coast 
 
120 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 of Africa, which lies just opposite, across 
 the South Atlantic ocean. The northern 
 parts are always warm ; yet the natives there 
 prefer their own climate to that of even Rio 
 de Janeiro, where the variation is quite 
 sensible, though not very great. The part 
 which lies in the south temperate zone 
 enjoys a delightful climate, will produce the 
 grains, fruits, etc., of the north temperate 
 zone, and is well suited for emigrants from 
 the north of Europe. 
 
 The mineral resources of Brazil are un- 
 questionally very great, but so far unim- 
 proved to any useful extent, save precious 
 stones and gold. The conditions for sustain- 
 ing an immense population everywhere 
 abound, when once properly developed and 
 improved. 
 
 Brazil was discovered about A. D. 1500, 
 and was soon after taken possession of by 
 the Portuguese, and continued to be a colony 
 of Portugal till 1822, when it was declared 
 independent, under the title of the Empire 
 of Brazil. In 1889 it revolted and became a 
 republic, adopting a constitution and system 
 
FACTS ABOUT BRAZIL. 121 
 
 of government similar to our own. It is 
 divided into twenty States and a neutral 
 district, where its capital, Rio de Janeiro, is 
 situated. 
 
 The white population of Brazil is chiefly 
 of Portuguese extraction; and hence the 
 Portuguese element prevails in the institu- 
 tions of the country, in the customs and 
 habits of the people, and in every depart- 
 ment of life. The civilization, though in 
 general less advanced than in the more 
 favored portions of Europe and the United 
 States, is still European. 
 
 The language of the country is the Por- 
 tuguese, a sister language to the Spanish, 
 but clearly a distinct language. It is a 
 beautiful language, and has been appro- 
 priately styled the eldest daughter of the 
 Latin. It is compact, expressive, flexible, 
 and well adapted for oratory and literature. 
 
THE SAMARITAN HOSPITAL AT 
 S. PAULO. 
 
 A more homelike or comfortable looking 
 refuge for sick humanity than this pretty 
 red-brick building, built on the edge of one 
 of the deep ravines that make S. Paulo so 
 picturesque, it is difficult to imagine. It 
 must be almost a pleasure to be a guest at 
 such a place and be looked after by the 
 pleasant, sympathetic English nurses. The 
 hospital is a cosmopolitan undertaking, bmlt 
 and supported chiefly by English, American 
 and German residents of S. Paulo and 
 Santos under the direction and management 
 of Dr. Strain and a staff of competent pro- 
 fessional English nurses, who make life 
 within its walls something to be looked back 
 to with a positive pleasure instead of horror. 
 The hospital, when completed, will consist 
 of large wards for men, women and children, 
 
 private rooms for patients, bath rooms hand- 
 122 
 
THE SAMARITAN HOSPITAL AT S. PAULO. 123 
 
 somely tiled and fitted with the most approved 
 sanitary appliances. 
 
 The new ward wiU be styled the " Vic- 
 toria " Ward, and its cost be entirely de- 
 frayed by the subscription raised on the 
 occasion of the Queen's Jubilee. — Brazilian 
 Review. 1898. 
 
 The hospital had its origin in the Presby- 
 terian Mission of S. Paulo. The first con- 
 tribution to its funds was from an humble 
 but devout Chinese member of the church 
 who, besides leaving in his will a small sum 
 of money for the founding of a Protestant 
 hospital, bequeathed to it a house and lot. 
 Under the laws of the Empire the govern- 
 ment confiscated the house, but the money 
 was held by the Mission and finally turned 
 over to the committee organized to build the 
 hospital. 
 
 The hospital has enlarged its borders and 
 widened its work to embrace all who need 
 its services, of whatever nation or creed. 
 — Brazilian Bulletin. 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL EEVOLT ENDED 
 BY UNITED STATES PROTECTION 
 OF HER OWN MERCHANT-SHIPS. 
 
 THAT FAMOUS SCENE AT RIO, WHEN THE 
 DETROIT THREATENED TO SINK TWO OF 
 GAMA's SHIPS. 
 
 Rio db Janeiro, Feb. 8, 1894.— The 
 first gun fired with warlike intent by an 
 American war ship at another ship within 
 thirty years was fired from the Detroit early 
 on the morning of January 29 at the in- 
 surgent BraziHan ship Trajano in this har- 
 bor. A second shot was fired a few minutes 
 later at the Guanabara, another insurgent 
 Brazilian lying not far from the one first 
 assaulted. Some of the facts of this in- 
 cident were told in The Sun on the next day 
 
 after they occurred, but the whole story will 
 
 124 
 
BEAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 125 
 
 be found of interest even at the date when 
 this can be published after transmission to 
 New York by mail. 
 
 The trouble which made the firings neces- 
 sary arose unexpectedly early in the last 
 week of January. For some time before 
 that date Admiral Gama, the insurgent 
 leader, had been in communication with 
 Admiral Benham with a view of enlisting 
 the services of the American Admiral as a 
 mediator in compromising the fight that had 
 been wasting the substance of the nation 
 for more than four months. So far as any 
 one could see, Gama was sincere in saying 
 that he desired peace and would make aU 
 honorable concessionsto obtain it. Peixoto's 
 Government was notified of these negotia- 
 tions, and in answer a promise to submit 
 propositions for peace was obtained. But 
 before the Government had had sufficient 
 time for deliberation in the matter several 
 Captains of American merchant vessels made 
 application to Admiral Benham for protec- 
 tion from the fire of the insurgents while 
 en route to the piers to discharge cargoes. 
 
126 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 The insurgents had notified the merchant- 
 men that if they attempted to go to the 
 piers to discharge cargo they would be fired 
 upon. 
 
 This matter was brought to the attention 
 of Gama when, as a private citizen, he called 
 on Benham to talk over the propositions for 
 compromise. Gama explained his position 
 at length. He did not wish, he said, to 
 prevent the American ships from discharg- 
 ing their cargoes ; he wanted only that they 
 discharge into lighters while moored in the 
 bay in order that he might inspect their 
 cargoes and search for munitions of war 
 destined for the Government. He added 
 that this right had been conceded to him by 
 all the foreign naval commanders theretofore 
 — Captain Lang, the British senior officer. 
 Captain Picking, the American senior of- 
 ficer before Benham's arrival, and others, 
 had united in prohibiting the landing of 
 even a search-hght intended for Government 
 use, and the machine had in consequence 
 been sent around to Santos and landed. 
 Gama, in short, claimed the right to blockade 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 127 
 
 the port of Rio on the ground that he was 
 the Brazilian master afloat — that the Govern- 
 ment could not function to any extent what- 
 ever on the waters of the bay. 
 
 To this position Benham at once objected. 
 He piled up all the laws and decisions in 
 Admiralty bearing on the subject, and 
 proved that an insurgent to whom belli- 
 gerent rights had not been accorded could 
 not lawfully interfere with the movements 
 of foreign ships within any harbor. It was 
 not intended that the American ships should 
 cross any line of fire, or serve as a bulwark 
 for Government troops. It was stated that 
 they would assume the risk of damage from 
 fire when at the piers if Government troops 
 took refuge behind them, and all risk of 
 damage from stray shot. The contention 
 was for freedom of movement and freedom 
 from search at the hands of an unrecognized 
 insurgent, no matter what their cargoes. 
 
 To the plain statements of authorities, to 
 the bearings of Admiralty decisions, and to 
 the friendly arguments of the American Ad- 
 miral the insurgent Admiral remained im- 
 
128 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 pervious. It therefore became necessary for 
 Admiral Benham to say plainly that the 
 American merchant-ships should go freely 
 about the harbor as their Captains might wish 
 them to do, and that any interference with 
 such movements would be resisted with force. 
 Because Benham was affable and courteous, 
 as it now appears, Gama did not believe force 
 would be used, and so reiterated the threat to 
 fire on the first American ship that tried 
 to go to the piers. 
 
 It was on Sunday, Jan. 28, that the issue 
 was joined verbally. Admiral Benham acted 
 decisively and at once. The Captains of the 
 various American naval ships in the harbor 
 were called on board the flagship " San Fran- 
 cisco" and were instructed immediately to 
 prepare their ships for action at daylight the 
 next morning, that being the hour when the 
 American merchant-ships wanted to start for 
 the piers. 
 
 At 5 o'clock that evening the work of 
 stripping ship began on the white squadron. 
 The transformation thus wrought was re- 
 markable. With their awnings spread, their 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 129 
 
 boats at the davits, and their bunting aloft, 
 they had seemed to tower out of the water, 
 and the English officers had jocosely remarked 
 that more beautiful targets could scarcely be 
 found. And so they seemed as the sun went 
 down. But with the break of day not an 
 awning or a stanchion or a boat davit was in 
 sight to obstruct the view or the sweep of 
 the long black guns, and the wall-sided ships 
 had shrunk down into the semblance of tigers 
 ready to spring. 
 
 Apparently the insurgents had anticipated 
 and were ready to fight. The white steam 
 was hissing from the safety valve pipes on the 
 " Aquidaban " and the " Tamandare," lying 
 well up the bay above Vianna Island, and 
 the chains of their anchors had been hove 
 short, ready for tripping on an instant's 
 warning. The crews of the " Trajano," the 
 " Guanabara," and the fleet of armed tugs had 
 been augmented by almost the entire force 
 garrisoning Cobras and ViUegaignon. The 
 " Liberdade," with her little blue ensign flut- 
 tering from the flag halliards on the main, 
 showing that Admiral Gama was on board, 
 9 
 
130 JOUENEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 was also under steam and, with the " Trajano " 
 and the " Guanabara," was lying just north of 
 Enchados Island and within pistol shot of 
 the trim Yankee bark " Amy," one of the 
 number that wished to go to the piers to 
 discharge. 
 
 Away to the north of these lay the Yankee 
 barkentine " Good News," a handsome craft, 
 too, but not alone, for one of the swift 
 Brazilian coasters, the "Parahyba," which 
 Mello had seized and armed, was at anchor not 
 far away with steam up and crew at the guns ; 
 so, too, the bark "Agate " was guarded by one 
 of these armed steamers as she lay at anchor 
 in the merchant fleet. With the American 
 fleet stripped for battle, with the American 
 merchant-ships under the guns of the insur- 
 gent fleet, and with the crews of all on deck 
 and ready for action, the picture on the bay 
 as daylight came was one to thrill every 
 spectator. 
 
 At 6 o'clock sharp the " Detroit," with Capt. 
 W. H. Brownson on the bridge, got up her 
 anchor and steamed slowly in toward the city, 
 heading through between Enchados and 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 131 
 
 Cobras islands. As if this had been a signal 
 prearranged for the occasion, two of the in- 
 surgent tugs left the vicinity of the " Liber- 
 dade," Gama's flagship, and started in toward 
 the north part of the city, where shipping 
 piers are. They at once opened fire on the 
 soldiers stationed at intervals behind sand 
 bags on the bulkheads. It had been and 
 still is the custom of these tugs to so assault 
 the north littoral of the city, but on that 
 morning they were making a live line of fire 
 against the piers, which the American ships 
 had no right to cross. 
 
 Fortunately, as it appeared, the " Detroit " 
 on getting her anchor to the hawse pipe 
 found it badly fouled, and here was an ample 
 excuse for proceeding slowly. She did so. 
 She did not want to go with the Yankee 
 clippers to the piers at a time when the act 
 would interfere with a legitimate, if useless 
 fight. For about half an hour the tugs 
 swept up and down the beach, pouring a hail 
 of Nordenfeldt projectiles on the piers, and 
 then a bullet from a soldier's rifle struck and 
 killed the nephew of Admiral Gama, a young 
 
132 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 officer on one of the tugs, and both drew off 
 though the fire was kept up until they were 
 a mile away, among the merchant-ships. 
 
 Then when the last shot had been fired 
 and the smoke of the fight was stiU hanging 
 low over the smooth water of the bay, the 
 " Detroit " came slowly around Enchados 
 Island and ranged up starboardside to star- 
 board and within sixty yards of the " Tra- 
 jano " as she lay at anchor. Every man was 
 at his post on the Yankee cruiser, the gunners 
 standing behind their shotted guns, now 
 glancing over the sights and then up toward 
 the bridge at Captain Brownson in anticipa- 
 tion of an order to fire. Without a word or 
 move on either ship the "Detroit" passed on, 
 while the sailors on the " Amy " started away 
 in a yawl to carry a line to a ship at anchor, 
 that they might warp their ship on its way to 
 the piers. As these sailors pulled away a 
 marine on the " Trajano " leveled his musket 
 and fired a shot over their heads. Then two 
 of the heaviest insurgent tugs began to get 
 into position for ramming the white Yankee. 
 
 At that moment a tiny blood-red roll of 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 133 
 
 bunting hung just beneath the San Fran- 
 cisco's truck — the signal for all the American 
 fleet to begin the battle — and a Yankee 
 quartermaster with a strong hand held the 
 halliards, eager to fling the signal to the 
 breeze. The moment the shot was fired 
 Captain Brownson turned to the gunner, 
 who stood at a six-pounder, and ordered him 
 to fire into the " Trajano," striking her at 
 the water line six feet abaft the stem. The 
 gunner misunderstood the order and fired 
 across the " Trajano's" bow. Thereat Cap- 
 tain Brownson hailed the insurgent vessel. 
 
 ""Trajano," ahoy!" he shouted. "If 
 you fire again I will return the fire, and if 
 you persist I wiU sink you." 
 
 It was a critical moment. The accidental 
 discharge of one of the " Trajano's " guns by 
 the excited crews that stood behind them 
 would have left Captain Brownson no alter- 
 native. The " Trajano's " guns were modern 
 rifles, and they were aimed at the Yankee. 
 The shot would have gone clean through 
 the " Detroit," and the "Detroit " would have 
 replied with a broadside at a range of but 
 
134 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 sixty yards ; and then, with helm hard aport, 
 she would have run in between the " Tra- 
 jano " and the " Guanabara," out o£ range o£ 
 their guns and where she could have riddled 
 their hulls with her rapid-fire guns and swept 
 their unprotected decks with the wicked 
 man-killers called the secondary battery. 
 
 Happily, as is known, the shot was not 
 fired, although the insurgents were still ugly. 
 Instead a blank shot was fired to leeward as 
 a protest. To this no attention was paid. 
 
 Turning to the bark " Amy." Captain 
 Brownson saw that her sailors had been in- 
 timidated somewhat by the shot fired over 
 them. 
 
 "You go ahead," he shouted to them, 
 " and I'll protect you." 
 
 So the sailors rowed on with the warp 
 Une, while the " Detroit " steamed slowly 
 ahead until she began to lap the hull of the 
 " Guanabara." Here, as on the " Trajano," 
 the crew stood ready at their guns — ^f our six- 
 inch rifles. 
 
 " Aim at the " Guanabara," ordered Cap- 
 tain Brownson, and at the word the " De- 
 
BKAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. I35 
 
 troit's " four broadside and two pivot rifles 
 swung around from the " Trajano " as though 
 moved by one man and pointed their muzzles 
 at the old insiu-gent cruiser. Then turning 
 to the insurgent crew, Captain Brownson told 
 them to be right careful what they did, for 
 even an accidental shot would be considered 
 as intentional. He finished his warning by 
 waving his hand at a gun's crew that showed 
 exceptional nervousness and told them they 
 had better get away from the gun entirely. 
 
 The crew of the " Guanabara" were Brazil- 
 ians to a man, and they did not understand 
 English. But they were looking at short 
 taw into the muzzles of gims that were 
 eloquent in appearance, if silent, and when 
 Brownson's hand was waved they didn't 
 stop to argue or even shrug their shoulders ; 
 they went away. 
 
 The " Detroit " steamed on untU clear of 
 the " Guanabara " and then turned square 
 across her stern and stopped. She now had 
 the two insurgent ships that threatened the 
 " Amy " where she could rake them fore and 
 aft and sink them in five minutes. The 
 
136 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 " Liberdade" with three small rifles was near 
 by, and the tugs had their noses well pointed, 
 but should the insurgent Admiral still 
 wish to fight, the " Detroit " would not need 
 any help. The other members o£ the white 
 squadron could look after the monitor 
 " Aquidaban " and the armed merchant ships. 
 
 Although Admiral Gama did not want to 
 fight, he was like a boy who was sulky 
 enough to need a whipping. Seeing the 
 sailors of the " Amy " carrying out the wharf 
 line he ordered a blank shot from a cannon 
 fired at them from the " Guanabara." As 
 this was plainly only a matter of form, Cap- 
 tain Brownson replied with a musket. A 
 member of the crew fired a bullet into the 
 " Guanabara's " stern. 
 
 Then a launch was lowered and a junior 
 officer sent to Admiral Gama to say that while 
 there was no wish to take active steps, the 
 American merchant ships would be protected 
 in going to the piers, that any shots fired at 
 them would be returned, and that if shoot- 
 ing were persisted in the insurgent ships 
 would be sunk. In reply Gama sent word 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 137 
 
 that if he was fired on by the American 
 ship he would instantly surrender the whole 
 fleet to the American Admiral. On hearing 
 this Captain Brownson sent the cadet back to 
 say that the " Guanabara " had been fired on 
 and hit. The haste with which the cadet 
 was sent on this mission makes the American 
 colony here think that the Yankee naval 
 sailors were to a man willing to have Gama 
 surrender, that they might get away from the 
 yellow fever port. But, as was cabled to The 
 Sun, Gama did not surrender. He would 
 have been glad to do so, but his enthusiastic 
 youngsters and his British backers would not 
 let him. 
 
 Of the British backers more wiU be told at 
 another time, but there was one man men- 
 tioned in the cable of whom something should 
 be said now. This is G. M. Rollins of New 
 York. Rollins has been a mystery to the Eng- 
 lish-speaking people of the port. He came 
 here on the steamer " Wordsworth " about 
 December 1. He lived on the " Wordsworth " 
 for a time, and then moved to the " Van- 
 dyke," a hulk owned by the Lamport & Holt 
 
138 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 line, and used as a warehouse. Here he lived 
 with " the manager off shore " of the line. In 
 some way he got acquainted with Gama and 
 the two became good friends. It was on this 
 account that Gama opened negotiations for 
 a compromise with the Government through 
 Admiral Benham. When people learned this, 
 there were many wild conjectures about Rol- 
 lins. These conjectures were the wilder be- 
 cause RoUins did not choose to tell people 
 why he came here, and, further, because he 
 said he was authorized by Mr. Taylor of the 
 New York Herald to send letters to that 
 paper, while the Herald's special representa- 
 tive published a note in Paiz saying that 
 Rollins was a fraud. 
 
 Rollins tried to get the American barks to 
 remain out in the bay, and promised them 
 the free use of a tug and lighters if they 
 would do so. At first they agreed to this, 
 but afterward went to the piers. Rollins 
 would have supplied Lamport & Holt lighters 
 and tugs had they remained, and it is guessed 
 that Gama would have paid the bill through 
 Rollins. 
 
BRAZILIAN NAVAL REVOLT. 139 
 
 To fully understand the result of Admiral 
 Benham's action it should be said that until 
 the " Detroit " opened the way the port was 
 practically blockaded to all commerce save 
 that of the regular liners. Ships had been 
 lying in port four months, waiting oppor- 
 tunity to discharge and load. Gama had aU 
 of the tugs of the harbor, save two belong- 
 ing to the Lamport & Holt line, one to 
 Wilson, Sons & Co., one under the German 
 flag, and one that was captured by the 
 British naval fleet when Boyton tried to blow 
 up the " Aquidaban " with it. This last was 
 used as a British war-ship tender, but oc- 
 casionally towed a merchant ship. The 
 line's tugs were naturally to be had by other 
 ships, but rarely and at high prices. Lighters 
 were equally scarce. Gdma would not let 
 the ships go to the piers, and was in this 
 supported by the foreign war ships so long 
 as Captain Lang of the British ship " Sirius " 
 dominated the foreign fleet. 
 
 The coming of Benham changed all this. 
 The Yankee barks led the way to the piers — 
 led at the head of a great procession. The 
 
140 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 ships of other nations locked yardarms and 
 crushed fenders that they might get into the 
 line. Time has been when the American flag 
 and the American naval fleet have been jeered 
 and scoffed at in foreign ports, and American 
 citizens insulted because they were Ameri- 
 cans. I have seen that done myself, but the 
 next day after the " Detroit " ranged up along 
 the insurgent fleet to demonstrate that the 
 American ships could not be fired on with 
 impunity, I saw the flag of Great Britain 
 dragged in the dirt of the Praga " Harmonia " 
 and denounced as " the red rag of Brazilian 
 rebels." I saw British ship captains look 
 on, and I heard one say, while others ap- 
 plauded : 
 
 " That's right. By God, if you want pro- 
 tection after this you must apply to the 
 Yankees." John R. Speaks, 
 
 Special Correspondent of the N. Y. Sun. 
 The of&cial report of the U. S. Navy De- 
 partment states that the cruiser " New 
 York," under command of Captain J. W. 
 Phillip, cleared for action to sustain the 
 " Detroit " if necessary. 
 
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH 
 IN BRAZIL AS A STATE CHURCH 
 AND AS RELATED TO PROTES- 
 TANTISM. 
 
 (From the New York Tribune's Special Correspondent 
 at the establishment of the Republic in 1889. ) 
 
 Rio, December 29. The church bells of 
 Rio make a great clangor on Sundays. If 
 religion were a thing of sounding brass, this 
 great city would have cause to be known as 
 one of the centers of Christianity. There is 
 a jangling chime in the Lapa dos Mercadores, 
 and there are bells great and small, harsh 
 and shrill, resounding from hill to hUl and 
 echoing back from the outermost mountains. 
 The Church is the oldest of BraziUan insti- 
 tutions. On the Castello there is a church, 
 once the cathedral, with a portion of its 
 walls as old as 15671 The cornerstone of 
 
 the Capella Imperial, now the cathedral, 
 
 141 
 
142 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 was laid as far back as 1761. The Cande- 
 laria, the largest and most costly church in 
 Rio, has been under construction since 1775. 
 The crumbling church of the Franciscan 
 friars on San Antonio was begun in 1700, 
 the Gloria, overlooking the harbor, was built 
 in 1714, and the Rosario about the same 
 time. Many of the monasteries and con- 
 vents, which are now practically abandoned 
 under the operation of Imperial laws, date 
 back to the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- 
 turies. The churches are not only of great 
 antiquity, but they have been built in the 
 main by lay brotherhoods employed in works 
 of mercy. No other South American city 
 has so many hospitals and asylums in active 
 operation. The Misericordia alone cost 
 ^1,750,000 and accommodates 1,200 pa- 
 tients. The lay confraternities have done 
 and are still doing a magnificent work of 
 mercy in Rio, and are imparting to reli^on 
 elements of practical philanthropy which 
 command respect and admiration. But old 
 and useful as the Church is, and loud as is 
 the summons to the faithful from beKry and 
 
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. 143 
 
 tower this summer morning, religion seems 
 to have little vitality in the Brazilian capital. 
 It has lost its hold upon the intelligent and 
 educated classes. An American who con- 
 trasts the listless and perfunctory celebration 
 of mass in the churches here with the same re- 
 ligious service in New-York churches of that 
 faith is shocked and amazed. What is devo- 
 tional there is the most mechanical mummery 
 here. The priests have the appearance of 
 worldly men earning a good living in relig- 
 ious trade. The very altar-boys, as I have 
 watched them here, seem to be cutting up 
 pranks with unseemly levity in the holy 
 places. 
 
 A single Sunday in Eio will go far toward 
 convincing any thoughtful observer that 
 one of the best things that could happen for 
 the Church in Brazil would be the same 
 rough shaking-up which political institutions 
 are receiving. I write in no spirit of intoler- 
 ance or hostility to Roman Catholicism. It 
 is the comparison which I have made here and 
 in other coast towns between the Church as it 
 is found in the United States and in Brazil 
 
144 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 that compels the conclusion that the abroga- 
 tion o£ the establishment as a State religion 
 would be of inestimable benefit to Christian- 
 ity. If the country has required thorough- 
 going processes of revolution, so has the 
 Church. The separation of Church and State 
 would tend powerfully to promote a revival 
 of religion. Roman Catholicism is purest, 
 strongest and more active as a religious 
 force where it is separated from the State, 
 and where Protestantism is arrayed against 
 it, as in the United States. It is corrupt, 
 weak and least useful where it is a State 
 establishment, as in Brazil, and where Prot- 
 estantism does not come into serious rivalry 
 with it. The most sincere Catholic here 
 would have reason for rejoicing if the Pro- 
 visional Government were to proclaim a 
 separation of Church and State. There 
 would then be signs of resurrection among 
 these gilded tombs of religion. 
 
 What has impaired the influence of the 
 Church in Brazil has been the corrupt and 
 scandalous life of many of the clergy. This 
 is not a wanton Protestant charge. It is the 
 
THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. I46 
 
 sorrowful admission of faithful Catholics 
 themselves. The evil has been one of long 
 standing. When Dom Pedro II. was in his 
 infancy, Antonio Diogo Feijo was Regent 
 of the Empire. He proposed as a good 
 Catholic a measure for sanctioning the mar^ 
 riage of the clergy, and compelling the Papal 
 authorities under menace of disestablishment 
 to allow its enforcement. When the meas- 
 ure failed, he wrote a book entitled Celihao 
 Clerical or Clerical Celibacy in defense 
 of his position, with many detailed state- 
 ments of fact. The book was burned by 
 order of the ecclesiastical authorities, but a 
 copy of it was found in a village of San 
 Paulo not long ago, and an edition of 
 5,000 copies was immediately reprinted. 
 The immorality which this devout Catholic 
 Regent denounced in his day stiU defiles the 
 influence of the Church in Brazil. Some of 
 the most active politicians here are known 
 to be the sons of priests. Celibacy is too 
 often only a cloak for immorality here. 
 Good Catholics frankly tell you that this is 
 one of the open scandals of their Church. 
 
146 JOURNEY TO BRAZIL. 
 
 This is a time when there is real educa- 
 tional work to be done in Brazil. A nation 
 is to be trained for self-government and 
 citizenship. Old things have passed away. 
 New social and political conditions are to be 
 created. The Church should have a great 
 part in this work of making a nation. It 
 should be breaking the bonds of superstition, 
 ignorance and medievahsm. It should be 
 teaching men and women by the example of 
 its own clergy to lead pure and incorrupt 
 lives. It should be leavening the whole 
 lump of Brazilian republicanism. If the 
 Church were disestablished and the clergy 
 purified and reformed, it would be one of 
 the grandest and most useful results of the 
 revolution. For, in the long run, no nation 
 in its political life and aspirations can get 
 above the level of the religion which it be- 
 lieves or affects to despise. 
 
1864 AND 1900. 
 
 " Theee is much that is discouraging in 
 the aspect of Brazil, even for those who 
 hope and believe as I do that she has before 
 her an honorable and powerful career. 
 
 " There is much also that is very cheering, 
 that leads me to believe that her life as a 
 nation will not belie her great gifts as a 
 country. Should her moral and intellectual 
 endowments grow into harmony vnth. her 
 wonderful natural beauty and wealth the 
 world will not have seen a fairer land. 
 
 "Every friend of Brazil must wish to 
 see its present priesthood replaced by a 
 more vigorous, intelligent, and laborious 
 clergy." — Pbop. Louis Agassiz, 1864. 
 
 Eleven years of self-government and a 
 disestablishment of the Church have brought 
 the Brazilian nation out of an imperialism 
 politically and a greater imperialism re- 
 ligiously. Within two years part of the 
 priesthood has been " replaced by a more 
 vigorous, intelligent and laborious clergy " 
 
 in the State of Sao Paulo. A. R. H. 
 
 141 
 
JOHN T. MACKENZIE. 
 
 John Thekon Mackenzie, the founder 
 of Mackenzie College at S. Paulo, Brazil, was 
 born in the town of Phelps, Oswego County, 
 N. Y., July 27, 1818. 
 
 He traveled extensively in the Old World 
 and his attention was constantly attracted to 
 the ignorance, superstition and poverty of 
 the masses in Italy, and the lack of Christian 
 culture in what should have been the most 
 Christian of all countries. This spectacle of 
 a lapsed Christianity afPected him deeply, and 
 he determined to honor his father's memory 
 and satisfy his own convictions by establish- 
 ing, somewhere, a College where the Bible 
 should be the foundation of education. 
 After at least one unsuccessful attempt to 
 carry out his idea in Europe, he heard of the 
 work that was being done by the Protestant 
 
 College at S. Paulo, Brazil, shortly after the 
 148 
 
JOHN T. MACKENZIE. I49 
 
 fall of the Empire ; a staunch American, 
 his heart went out to the youngest of Amer- 
 ican Repuhlics, and he saw, at once, the value 
 to the nascent Republic of having its youth 
 grounded in a knowledge of God's Word. 
 Without special solicitations on the part of 
 the College, he offered spontaneously to the 
 Trustees of the Protestant College the siun 
 of $50,000 with which to erect a building 
 " to be known as Mackenzie College," and 
 to be maintained as an institution of " learn- 
 ing based on the Protestant Bible, where 
 in each department shall be daily and 
 properly taught the teachings of Jesus 
 Christ and his Apostles as recorded in 
 said Bible." Of this sum only |42,000 
 was received. While the College was in 
 course of construction, its founder was 
 stricken by apoplexy and died September 
 17, 1892.