ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York State Colleges OF Agriculture and Home Economics Cornell University Cornell University Library TX 728.S478 The menu book; 4th ed. of PracW^^^^^ 82 156 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003582156 Lemco and the Chafing Dish Absolutely essential to success in Chafing-Dish Cookery, is Lemco. All culinary authorities are agreed on ,tbis. Prime beef stock always ready, pure and fresh, Lemco enables dainty little dishes to be readily prepared, which, without it, would be iinpossible or troublesome. No added flavour to Lemco, it is just pure concentrated beef essence which cannot be told from fresh beef stock in savoury, curry, or ragout. "tm i!S.Sm!-\- Cl)e menu Book FOURTH EDITION OF PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY A MENU COMPILER AND REGISTER OF DISHES JCopyrigUei IS91) BY C: HERMAN SENN, G.C.A., Inspaotop and Consulting Chef, National Training School of Cookery, 1892-1908. AUTHOR OF "RECHKRCHK COOKERV," "THE NEW CENTURY COOKERV BOOK," "RECHERCHE SIDE DISHES/* "THE PRACTICAL COOKERY MANUAL," ETC., ETC. LONDON, S.W. : THE FOOD &■ COOKERY PUBLISHING AGENCY, WESTMINSTER. mdcdviii. PREFACE. The ever-growing necessity for variety in our menus 'mgels us to glean new ideas and fresh help from every •^ssible source. Vhe object, therefore, of this culinary handbook is in the'Bj-st place to assist caterers, restaurateurs, managers, maltres d'h6tel, chefs, stewards, head waiters, and house- keepers to plan and compile menus of every kind of meal with greater ease, and to enable them to have at their disposal a k -ge and constant variety of seasonable and suitable dishes. Every course, from hors-d'oeuvre to dessert, has been exhaustively treated ; and the work • is compiled so as to give at a glance an almost infinite variety of every possible kind of dish that can be introduced into a menu. In most cases the - requisite mode of cooking, the garniture and style of dressing or dishing up, is briefly described. The book should not, however, be confused with a book of recipes, for its raison d'Ure is to enable 1;libse who can cook or superintend cooking to draft menus with greater ease, and to give each dish its proper French name. The adoption of French names in menus has become fashionable because most of the typical French dishes have become fully naturalised in the kitchens and on the tables of this country. It therefore becomes the duty of all persons interested in culinary matters to know how to describe them in correct French. The author can hardly expect that this book will bring about a revolution in the customs of gastroilomy, but he does hope that its use wUl be the meians of intro- ducing greater variety into the daily menus, and, if possible, economy in the preparation of dishes. ' Hence its mission should, if for no other purpose, prove practical and useful to such who .avoid ordinary cookery books and fight shy of scientific culinary treatises. If such an aim is achieved the author's efforts will be amply rewarded. The present, enlarged] edition contaiiis a special chapter on the Art of Menu Compilation, as well as over 2,000 additional dishes. C. HERMAN SENN. . Insist upon /<- the Best Cocoa. ( VAN HOUTEN'S is the BEST GOES FARTHEST. tffe PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. Part i. THE MENU. PAGE The Origin' of Menus . . ; . 9 Modern Megus lO -The Art of Compiling Menus 12 Selection of, and naming the Dishes 14 When Food is in Season 16 Names of Food in English and French 19 'Spelling and Pronunciation of Principal Words usee in French Menus 21 Luncheon and Dfejfiuner Menus . 26 Dinner — Le Diner " . . 30 ■Specimen Dinner Menus for various Seasons 31 Royal Menus 41 Table d'Hote Menus 46 'Private Dinner Menus 48 Supper, and Supper Menus . . 52 Ball Supper Menus 55 Menu with Quotations 57 Part ii. ' HORS=D'(EUVRE. Plain Hors d'CEuvre (Side Dished) 58 Hors d'CEuvre Garni 60 Part in. SOUPS— POTAQES. Broths — Bouillons 68 Clear Soups — Consommes 69 Creams — Crimes "^ . . .... 80 . . 83 PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. Part iv. " ' THE FI5H COURSE-LES POISSONS. ■'■f>.':ri "•;» PAGE Fish Dishes — Plats de Poissoa 92 Cod— Cabillaud .. 95 Herring — Hareng .. 98 Lobster — Homard .. 98 Oysters — Hultres ; . . . 100 Mackerel — Maquereau . . lOI Whiting — ^Merlam . . 102 Red Mullet — Rougets . . 104 Salmon — Saumon ... 105 Soles — Soles .. 109 Turbot— Turbot .. 119 Part v. SAUCES. Alphabetical Order of Sauces 121 Part vi. QARNITURES. Gamishings^for Fish, Meat, and Poultry . .. 138 Part vi THE ENTREE COURSE. Special Light Entrees and new Vegetable Entrees 145 Light Entries and Hot Side Dishes . 147 Timbales and Darioles . . .. i^; Meat Entrees .. 156 Entr6es of Beef .. 158 Entrees of Veal (du Veau) .. 166 Entries of Lamb (d'Agneau) . . .. 176 Entrfees of Mutton (de Mouton) • • ir9 Entries of Pork (de Pore) .. 187 Entrees of Poultry (de Volaille) . . 190 Entrees of Game (de Gibier) . . .. 2 ID Cold Entrees (Entries froides) . . 222 Part viii. REMOVES— RELEVES. Beef — Boeuf Pork and Ham — Pore and Jambon . . Veal — Veau Tui'key — Dinde, Poularde, etc. 229 233 -34 23s PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. Part ix. THE VEQETABLE COURSE. PAGE Artichokes — Artichauts • .237 Asparagus^-Asperges . . . 238 Egg Plants— Aubergines . 240 Carrots — Carottes . 241 Celery— Celeri . 24i Mushrooms — ChamDiffiions • 243 • 244 Cabbages — Choux Cauliflower — Choux-fleur • 245 Cucumber — Concombre . 246 Endive and Spinach — Epinard • 247 Broad, Haricot, and French Beans . . . 248 Lettuces, Lentils, and Turnips . 249 Green Peas and Onions . 250 Potatoes — Pommes de Terre . . • 251 Salsify and Tomatoes . . , . . . , ... ■ 257 -Jerusalem Artichokes and Truffles • 259 ' Part x. ROAST— ROTI, Poultry — Volaille Game— Gibier (Wild Poultry) iPour-Footed Game Part xi. SALADS— SALADES. Salads — Salades Entremets, Notes on Part xii. THE SWEET COURSE. 260 261 263 263 269 Apricots — Abricots . . 270 Pine Apples— Ananas . . 271 Bananas — Bananes . . 272 Creams and Bavaroises . . 272 Fritters— Beignets, etc. ■ ■ 274 Borders — Bordures .. 275 Cherries — Cerises ' . . . . 276 PRINCIPAL CONTENTS. THE SWEET COVRS'E.— continued. Charlottes PAGE . . 276 Fruit Compotes 278 Strawberries — Praises . 279 Croutes of Fruit, etc. . 280 Jellies — Gelees . . 280 Melon — Oranges 282 Peaches— P6ches 283 Pears — Poires . . 284 Apples — Pommes 285 Puddings — Poudings . 286 Special Sweet Entremets ^91 Souffles and Omelettes . . 292 Fancy Cakes and Pastry^Gdteaux . 294 Ices — Glacis 298 Part xiii. THE SAVOURY COURSE. Fish Savouries . . Meat Savouries Vegetable Savouries Farinaceous and Cheese Savouries Special Af ter-Dinner Savouries Dessert and Coffee . . Part xiv. EQQS AND OMELETS. Egg Dishes and Omelets 3H PART I. THE MENU. ♦ THE ORIGIN OF MENUS. Menu is a French word, denoting minute details as applied to kitchen bill, bill of fare, table card, or pro- gramme of a meal, its object being^to present a list of dishes and courses, eatables, and beverages. ' Although the kitchen bill of fare is probably as old as the art of cooking, our forefathers in past ages had- no use or need for menus ; they contented themselves with merely looking at the dishes to judge the nature of the viands as they were brought to table. Ancient Rome, and all her glories, according to history, had enormous feasts and expensive banquets. Untold wealth was lavished on foods and drinks, and its culinary triumphs were incomparable to our modern gastronomic feasts, yet no mention is made of a menu or bill of fare being in use in those days. The use of menus was first heard of as being adopted - for table use in 1541, when, at a banquet given by the Duke Henry- of Brunswick, his Grace was seen to have a sheet of paper by the side of his plate, to which he occasionally referred. One of the duke's guests asked what the paper was for, and on its being explained that it was a sort of programme of what they were going to eat, and by looking through it he could reserve his appe- tite for those dishes he liked best, the idea was so much admired that it soon became generally known and adopted. The old-fashioned bills of fare were usually written on large cards gaudily ornamented with gastro- nomic symbols, etc. ; they were, however, of such a size that only one copy could be conveniently placed at each end of the table. Another version is that Count Hugo de Montfort, at a dinner given in the year- 1498, was noticed to have a piece of written parchment near his plate, which he frequently consulted, and when asked what it was he 10 THE MENU BOOK. explained that he had ordered the head cook to write on it the various dishes that were being sent from the kitchen. The size of these parchments and paper lists gradually diminished, and, as they became smaller, larger numbers were placed at the table, until the present form of menu was generally introduced, when each guest is provided with a written or printed menu card. Modern Menus. Modern menus, as a rule, are much more prettily got up than those of olden times. In the matter of material for menus, white paper is mostly used, but more expensive material is also employed. I have seen some made of silk, papier-mache ; some in the form of shells, books, almanacks, cigars, cigarettes, matchboxes, newspapers, maps, post-cards, bank-notes, blank covers, envelopes, etc. Menus in the shape of envelopes are particularly pretty, and now very much in favour. One takes the form of a small, deUcately-coloured envelope of thin cardboard, decorated with gold ; the flap is engraved with a motto, crest, name of host or hostess, some flowers, or a knife and fork crossed, and a sprig of herbs; the post-mark is " Bon App6tit." On the address side is a stamp in gold, with some gastronomic design, and a post-mark bearing the name of the place where the meal is given, with the respective date and name of the diner. The enclosure is, of course, the menu itself. Hand-painted menus on paper, parchment, and satin are in great favour in all society circles. Some of the newest have a miniature of the host or hostess painted in the centre, and are occasionally the work of noted artists. In England, America, and France much art and luxury have been lavished on menu cards. Parchment of the Middle Ages competes with Japanese rice-paper. Some menus, with their seals and ribbons, are like a charter of nobility, whilst others are in the form of beautiful miniature fans. For some time there has been a reaction against extra- vagant luxury, which is being replaced by a simpUcitj- not less excessive. Sometimes the names of the dishes are written by hand on thick paper, without any orna- mentation. As usual, the best kind are between these MODERN. MENUS. ii excesses of ostentation and severity. Menus of out-of- the-way and awkward shapes are at all times to be avoided, because they encumber the table, and are difficult to consult. Skint dA Afffi^ A- J^ 'vniC, August to April ■ October. to April' August to March • July to October September to February September to March- April to May June to July March to September October to April September to October July to September August to December * May to January August to March October to December - July to February August to December July to April " December to March • i8 THE MENU BOOK. Lamb Landrails . . Larks Lettuces, English Lettuces, French Leverets Lobsters Mackerel Maize Medlars Melons (Hothouse) Melons, Rock Melons, Spanish Water- Mulberries Mullet, Grey and Red Mushrooms Mussels Nectarines . . Oranges Oranges, Seville . . Ortolans . . Oysters Parsnips Partridges . . Partridges, Foreign Peaches Pears Pears, Californian Peas, English, Green Perch Pheasants . . Pigeons, BorIjeaux Pike Pines, St. Michael's Pintail Plaice Plovers' Eggs Plovers, Golden and Grey Plums, English Plums, French Pomegranates Pork . . Potatoes, New Kidney Ptarmigans . . Prairie Hens Prawns Pumpkins . . Quails Quinces Raspberries Red Cabbage Reeves January to July October to February August to February April to September December to March ■ August to March ^ July to September April to December August to December - September to October August to September ■ August to September October to March August to September - July to October March to October August to March •. August to October ■ November to June s February to March > June to August » September to April September to April September to Februarj' February to June ' August to October August to December November to April ^ August to September July to February October to February August to April July to February October to April September to March ■ May to January • April to May - August to March - August to September July to August October to November September to April March to May December to May • February to April • April to August September to October June to August October to November June to September September to Jauuarj' August to September - NAMES OF FOOD IN ENGLISH &■ FRENCH. 19 Rhubarb, Forced Rhubarb, Natural Ruffs Shrimps Salmon Salsify Savoys^ Scarlet Runners. Scallops Skate Snipe Spinach Sprats Strawberries Sturgeon, Royal . Tangerine Oranges Teal Tench Tomatoes Trout Turkeys .Vegetable Marrow Venison Walnuts Whitebait Whiting Widgeons Woodcocks December to May ■ April to July August to Septernber ' April to September February to October Defcember to March October to March ' July to October ■ October to April ■ October to May ■ August to March • March to December November to April-- June to September September to March • November to February September to March - July to February March to December February to September September to February August to October * May to October September to December February to August May to January August to March August to March NAMES OP FOOD IN ENQUSH AND FRENCH, English. Anchovy Artichoke Asparagus Bacon Beans Beef Beetroot Brains Broccoli Brussels sprouts Butter Cabbage Calf's head Caper Capon Cardoon Carrbt Cauliflowei Caviare Celery French. A nchois Artichaut Asperges Lard Fives, haricots Bett^rave Cervelles Brocoli Chou de Brux- elles Beurre Chou Tete de Veau Cdpre Chapon Cardan Carotte Chpufleur Caviar Celeri English. French Cheese Frontage Chicken Poulet Chic-chicken Poussin Cod Cabillaud Cod (salt) Morue Cos lettuce Romaine Coffee Cafe Cress Cresson Cucumber Concombre Cutlet Cotelette Duck Canard Duckling Caneton Eel Anguille Egg CEuf Egg-plant A uiergine Endive Chicorie Fillet Filet Fish ■ Poisson Game Gibier Garlic Ail Gherkin Cornichon THE MENU BOOK. Goose Die Poultry Volaille Goose-liver Foie-Cras Pullet Poularde Gosling Oison Pumpkin Potiron Grey mullet ■ Mulet Rabbit Lapin Gudgeon Goujon Radish Radis Guinea-fowl Pintade Red mullet Rouget Haddock Merluche Rib Cote Halibut Fletan ' Roe Laitance Ham Jambon Saddle Selle Hare Lievre Sago Sagou Herring Hareng Salmon Saumon Horseradish Raifort Salt Sel Kale Chou-frise Sausage Saucisse Kidney Rdgnon Seakale Chou de mer Lamb Agneau Semolina Semoule Lark Mauvietie Sirloin A loyeau Leek Poireau Skate Raie Lettuce Laitue Smelt Eperlan Liver Foie Snail Escargot Lobster Homard Snipe Becassine Mackerel Maquereau Soft roes Laitances Meat Viande Sorrel Oseille Milk Lait Spinach Epinard Mushroom Champignon Sturgeon Esturgeon Mussels Monies .j Sucking Pig Cochon de lait Mustard Moutarde Sugar Sucre Mutton Mouton Sweetbread Ris de veau Onion Oignon Teal Sarcelle Ox-tail Queue deBoeuj ' Tongue Langue Oyster Huitre Trout Truite Parsley Persil Truffles Truffes Parsnip Panais Turkey Dinde Partridge Perdrix Turnip Navet Peas Pais Turtle - Tortue Pheasant Faisan Veal Veau Pigeon Pigeon Vegetable Courge d la Plaice Plie marrow moelle Plover Phwier Vegetables Legumes Plum Prune Venison Venaison Pork-chop Cotelette di Whitebait Blanchaille pore Whiting Mertans Potato Pomme de Widgeon Sarcelle ierre Woodcock Btcasse Fruit. Almond A mande Currant liaison de Angelica A ngelique Corinl/ie Apple Pomme Damson Prune de damas Apricot Abricot Date Datte Banana Banane Fig Figue Cherry Cerise Gooseberry GroseiUe Chestnut Marron Grape Raisin Cranberry Airelh Greengage Reine-Claudf SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION. Plum Prune Prune Pruneau Quince Coing Raisin Raisin sec Raspberries Framboises Rliubarb Rhubarbe Strawberry Praise Tomato Tomat Pineapple Ananas Walnuts Noix Lemon Citron Medlar Nifle Melon Melon Mulberry- Mure Nut Noix Orange Orange Peach Peche Pear Poir SPELLINQ AND PRONUNCIATION OF PRINCIPAL WORDS USED IN FRENCH MENUS. Tlie custom of writing menus for lunclieons, dinners or suppers is one of long standing, not only in this country, but in all parts of the civilised world, although there are many people who regard it with a certain amount of prejudice. Those who go abroad or frequent first-class hotels, clubs, and restaurants, are familiarised with the langue de cuisine ; but the occasional diner is frequently at a loss to understand not only the terms and phrases used in the compilation of the menu, but also their correct pronunciation. It is a recognised fact that we owe much of the advancement and development of cookery to the French, who excel in the culinary art ; and with the introduction of Special dishes and processes of food preparation, we have also to a certain extent become acquainted with many of the ordinary culinary terms used in the French fawgwoge, which, as far as menus are concerned, has -become the fashion, notwithstanding the inconvenience which the average Englishman feels in consequence, tt is, however, a matter of difficulty to give the correct rendering of the phonetic pronunciation of French words, on account of there being in English no equivalents in many instances for the sounds in French. The accents must receive especial attention in writing or reading menus, as the meaning of a word may be completely changed by its use or omission. At the same time, it must be observed that there is, in general, no especial stress of voice on any one syllable in French, even when an accent is placed over a letter in that syllable. The accent determines the sound or pronun- ciation of the letter alone. The following suggestions and explanations having reference to the various courses comprising a luncheon or dinner menu may prove helpful, not only in the compilation of the latter, but also as an aid to the correct interpretation and pronunciation * of the phraseology generally in vogue. * It ,is, however, impossible to give exact equivalents to the French «, the e in many instances, the ot, and the om. Our phonetic rendering is approximate only. - 22 THE MENU BOOK. The following are a few examples of the names of dishes and words used in French menus, with their approximate pronunciations : — Aigre (ehgr), souy, acid or piquant. Aigrefin (eh-gre-fan), haddock. k la diable (ah lah dee-abl), devilled. k la (AH lah), in the style of ; after the manner of. Alose (ah-lose), shad. Aloyau (al-oy-yo), sirloin of beef. Alouette (al-ou-et), lark. Ananas (an-a"n-ah), pineapple. Anguille (an-geeye), eel. Aspic (ahs-pke'k), savoury jelly. au bleu (o bluh), stewed in wine or in vinegar and water, with herbs. au gratin (o grah-tan), scalloped. au kari (o karee), curried. au maigre (o mehgr), dish in which no meat is used. au naturel (o nah-tu-rehl), uncooked or boUed in water. Baba (bahbah), spongy yeast cake like savarin, but con- taining currants, or soaked in rum syrup. Bfearnaise (ber-nehz), rich white herb sauce with egg-yolk liaison. Becasse (beh-kas), woodcock. Bechamel (beh-shah-mel), French rich white sauce — the premier foundation sauce. Beignets (bayn-yeh), fritters. Beurre-noir (berr-nooahr), butter cooked to a brown colour. Bisque (beesq), thick soup, made from shell fish. Blanchailles (blan-shy), whitebait. Bouch6es (boo-shay), small puff paste patties filled with minced meat, fish, etc. Bouilli (boo-ee), fresh boiled beef. Brais6 (breh-zeh), a combination of roasting and stewing. Broche (broh-sh), roasted before a fire on the spit. Brunoise (bruh-nuwahs), a class of French thick soups. , Cabillaud (cab-ee-yo), codfish. Cafe (kah-feh), coffee. Caille (kiey), quail. Canard (can-ar), duck. Caneton (can-ehton), duckling. Celeri (seh-le-ree), celery. Cerises (ser-ease), cherries. Canape (kah-nah-peh), fried or toasted pieces of bread. Cepes (sehp), a species of large mushroom. Cervelle de veau (serve-el-de-vo), calf's brains. Champignons (cham-i>een-yon), mushrooms. Chartreuse (shar-trerrz), a liqueur, also a mould of savoury meat and vegetable or sweet. Chaudfroid (shoh-frwa), a name for dishes which are prepared hot, coated with sauce, dressed, and served cold, usually garnished with aspic and truffles, etc. SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION. 23 Chevreuil (shev-retjye), roebuck, roe-deer. Chicor6e au jus (she-co-reh-oh ju), endive stewed in stock. Choux (shoo), cabbages. Civet de.Lidvre (see-vay de Lee-ehvre), jugged hare. Colbert (kholbehr), a French clear soup and certain other dishes, named after Jean Baptiste Colbert, a clever states- man in the reign of Louis XIV. of France, 1619-1683. Compote (kom-poht), stewed fruit or game. Consoinm6 (kon-some-meh), clear gravy soup, clarified double stock. Coquilles (coquee), light fish or meat entrees served in shells. CrSme Crevette (crayme crev-et), shrimp soup. Crfepes (CREHPE),- pancakes. Croquette (kroh-ket), Savoury minced shapes rolled in breadcrumbs and fried. Croutons (kroo-ton), sippets of fried bread. Dejeuner (deh-jerr-neh), 7«»cA or luncheon. Dinde (dand), hen turkey. Dindon (dandon), young turkey or turkey poult. Ecrevisse (eh-crev-esse), crayfish. Entree (on-treh), a course of dressed dishes, or side dish for the first course. Entremets (entreumeh), name of a course of dishes com- prising sweets and savouries, Epaule d'agneau (eh-pole dan-yo), shoulder of lamb. Eperlan (ehper-lan), smelt. Epinard (ehpin-ar), spinach. Faisan (fay-san), pheasant. Farce (farce), stuffing or forcemeat. Feves (fayve), broad beans. Filet de bceuf (fee-leh de-beuf), fillet of beef. Foie de veau (fwa de-vo), calf's liver. Fondue (fon-du), cheese melted with butter and served hot. Fraises (frayze), strawberries. FriciTssee (free-kah-seh), a white stew of fish or poultry. Frites (freet), fried. Gateaux (gahto), cakes. Gelee (jeh-leh), jelly.' Gigot de Mouton (gee-go de mooton), leg of mutton. Glace (glahs), ice. Glace (glah-seh), iced or glazed. Goujon (goojon), gudgeon.. Grive (grebve), thrush. Gras Double (graa doobl), tripe. Hachis~(HAH-SHEE), hash or mince. ^ Haricot (hah-ree-koh), haricot beans or meat stewf4 with vegetables. Haricots (arry-co), beans. Homard (ome-ar), lobster. 54 THE MENU BOOK. Hors-d'a3Uvre (or-derrvr), small relishes with which luncheon or dinner begins — appetisers. Hultre (WEETRE), oyster. Jambon aux epiuards (jambon oes ay-peen-ar), ham with spinach. Julienne (juh-lee-en), finely shredded vegetables used for clear soup, etc. Jus (juh), gravy ; liquid unthickened seasoning for roast meat, etc. Kromeskies (kroh-mes-kees), chopped meat fried in batter. Langouste (lan-gooste), crawfish or rock lobster. Lapereaux (lap-er-roh), rabbits. Laitue (leh-tu), lettuce, served plain or braised. Lapin sautfe (la-pan-so-teh), stewed rabbit. Maquereau (mac-er-ro), mackerel. Mauviettes (mauvi-yet), larks. Mayonnaise (my-yo-nehz), the principal salad sauce, composed of yolk of egg, oil, and vinegar. Menu (MEH-NEU), bill of fare or list of dishes. Meringue (meh-rang-g), light-baked egg crust made with frosted white of egg and sugar. Merlan (iwARE-LAij), whiting. Merluche (mare-luche), smoked haddock. Morue (more-u), salt cod. Navet (nav-ay), turnips. Noix (nwa), walnuts. Noisettes (nwa-set), nuts. Nougat (noo-gah), edible paste of sugar and almonds. Oie (wa), goose. Oseille (o-zay), sorrel. Pate (pah-t), paste of meat, fish or fruit. Pat6 (PAH-TEH), pie, patty. Peche (PEYSH), peach. Petits four (puh-tee foor), small pastry of the sponge cake variety, decorated with sugar, etc. Petits pois (PUH-TEE PWA), peas. Perdreaux (pear-drow), partridges. Pidce de resistance (pee-es de reh-zees-tons). tite principal dish of the meal. Pintade (pan-tahd), guinea fowl. Poire (pwar), pear. Pommes (pohm), apples. Pommes Pailles (pohm p:e), potato straws. Pommes de Terre (pohm de tare), potatoes Pommes Nouvelles (pohm noovel), new potatoes Pommes Rissolees (pohm ree-sole-ay), olivc-shaiieJ potatoes browned in butter. '^ Potage a I'oseiUe (potaaj ah lo-say), acream soub with sorrel as garmsh. '^ Potage Parmentier (potaaj par-mon-tyay). potato cream soup, so-called because Parmentier introduced potatoes into France. '^ , SPELLING AND PRONUNCIATION. 35 Potage petite marmite (potaaj pee-tee mar-meat), Beef broth vegetables, served in small earthen pots with garnish. Potage a la Reine (potaaj ah la ren), Chicken puree with cream, garnished with small fried bread croHtons. Potage St. Germain (san-jer-man), green pea soup with cream. Potage k la Soubise (soo-beese), puree of omons. Potage au tomates (oh-to-mat), tomato puree (filtered soup), Poularde au riz (poo-lard o ree), boiled chicken with rice. Poule au pot (pool o po), a fowl boiled and served with bourgeois sauce. Poulet saute (pool-ay so-teh), joints of chicken saute, with mushrooms, etc. Pruneaux au riz (prune-o o ree), prunes with rice. Prunes (preun), prunes. Pur6e (puh-reh), pulp of vegetables or fruit. Quartier de pre sale (pray-sal-eh), fore-quarter of South- down mutton. Quenelles (quh-nel), pounded meat, poultry or fish mixed with panade and poached in- stock. Ragout (rah-goo), brown stew of meat or poultry. Raie (reh), skate. Raisin (ra^san), grapes: Rechauffe (reh-shoh-feh), cold meat warmed up. Ris-de-veau a la jardiniere (ree-de-vo), sweetbreads gar- nished with vegetables. Rissoles (ree-sohl), half-moon shapes of fried minced pastry containing meat, fish, poultry or game. Rognons (rohn-yon), kidneys. Rouget (roo-jeh), red mullet. Salmis (sahl-mee), a rich brown stew of game. Saute (soh-teh), tossed in butter ; cooked rapidly. Souffle (sou-fLeh), pu-ffed ; applied to very light culinary preparations. Soupe au choux (soop o shoo), cabbage soup with cream liaison (thickened with cream). Soupe au lait (soop o leh), milk soup thickened with potato puree. Soupe a i'oignon (soop ah lun-yon), onion soup. Terrine (teh-eeen), earthen dish ; term applied to dishes served in such a vessel. Tete de veau (teht de vo), calf's head. Timbale- (tam-bal), thimble-shaped moulds applied to crusted hash, purees, etc., baked or steamed. Thon (ton), tunny-fish. Tomates (to-mat), tomatoes. Truite (trwbete), trout. Vol-au-vent (vohl-o-vohn), case of pastry in which stewed meat or fruit t? served. 26 THE MENU BOOK. LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS. Menus des Dejeuners "a la Fourchette. The French have two kinds of dejeuners : one is called " d la Tasse," being a plain breakfast, and the other " d la fourchette," which is equivalent to an English luncheon. The word " lunch," or " luncheon," is said to be derived from the Welsh llwne, which is a derivation of lump. In bygone days lunch or luncheon meant simply a lump of bread and cheese taken between meals, " a frugal bit " ; but now the lunch, more especially among the upper classes, has become a fashionable meal, and one quite as important as the dinner of former times. Few meals offer better opportunities for combining smart little dishes at comparatively small expense than the lunch or luncheon. There are plenty of dainty dishes which can be prepared with little trouble, suitable as luncheon dishes, that can with advantage be brought within the scope of high-class cookery. The menus given below show what kinds of dishes are suitable for such repasts. SPECIMEN MENUS FOR SET LUNCHEONS. I. French. English. Souffle aux HuJtres Oyster Souffle Cdtelettes de Venaison Venison Cutlets with aux Marrons Chestnut Puree Pommes Soufflees Puff Potatoes G&teau au Chocolat Chocolate Cake Compote de Figues Stewed Figs Fromage. Cheese. II. Bouillon en tasse Beef Broth in cups Artichauts k la Chanzy Artichokes with Poached Entrecote k la Bfearnaise . . -^off-s Okras aux Tomates Sirloin Steak, Bearnaise- Bordure Japonaise a la nh^„. ,.^,V"i- P f, Okras with Tomatoes TJ-u r, Japanese Border in Jelly PaiUes au Parmesan cheese Straws Dessert. Dessert. LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS. . 27 Dejeuner dinatoire du 30 Septembre 1903. Oglio. Pains a la Careme. Cotelettes d'agneau a la provengale. Salade a la Helgoland. Canards de France k I'andalouse. Gel^e de fruits au vin de Champagne. Failles de fromage Fruits. Dessert. LUNCHEON MENn OF H.A.M. THE -EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA. 28 THE MENU BOOK. Dejeuner de Chasse. French. Filets de Soles a la Mayonnaise Mousse de Homard frappfe Boeuf braise i la Gelee Langue a I'Ecarlate Filets de Caneton k la Loraine Cailles Po616es k la Parisienne Faisan en Robe de Chambre Salade A la Japonaise Bordure de Riz aux Prunes Gdteaux a I'Africaine Batons Gougfire Fromage Dessert. Hunt Luncheon. English. Fillets of Soles in Mayonnaise Iced Lobster Souffle Braised Beef with Savoury Jelly Dressed Ox-tongue Fillets of Duckling with Goose-liver Farce Braised Stuped Quails Roast Pheasant in Paste Crust Japanese Salad Border of Rice with Stewed Prunes African Cakes Savoury Cheese Fingers Cheese Dessert. MENUS DES DEJEUNERS. I. Truites k la McuniSre Trout, Meuniere style CEufs moUets aux Scrambled Eggs with fepinards Spinach Langouste Sauce Tartare Lobster with Tartare Sauce Lasagnes au Parmesan Cheese Pastry Beignets de Pommes. Apple-Fritters. II. jambou d'York a la Gelee York Ham with Savoury Veau saute aux Champignons Cdtelettes de pre-sale, vert-pr6 Pur6e de Pommes au gratin Omelette aux Confitures. CEufs a la Meyerbeer Poulet en CasseroUe Parmentier CarrS d'Agneau r6ti Salade de Laitue Tartelettes de Reine- ClauJe. Jelly Stewed Veal with Mushrooms Mutton Cutlets with Green Pea Sauce Scalloped Potatoes Jam Omelet. III. Eggs Meyerbeer style Chicken in pot with Potatoes Roast Neck of Lamb Lettuce Salad Greengage Tartlets. LUNCHEON AND LUNCH MENUS. 29 SPECIAL DEJEUNER OR LUNCHEON MENUS. Dejeuner du 30 mars. Consomm6 en tasses Cotelettes de ris de veau k la Villeroy Tournedos, pommes frites Poulardes a la gelee salade" parisienne Haricots verts a I'anglaise Ananas glace Failles au Fromage Dessert. {March) Dejeuner du 15 Mai. Consomme double aux CEufs poches Tournedos ^ la Rossin Poussins de Paris grilles Sauce Diable Pommes pailles Salade verte Omelette en Surprise {May) De'jeuner du 16 Juillet. Consomme frappe en Tasses OEufs brouilles aux Truffes Dame de Saumon a la Tartare Escalopes de Volaille a la Reine Petits Pois au beurre Cotelettes d'Agneau k la Russe Soiurenirs de Praises. {July) DEJEUNER OR LUNCHEON MENUS. Hors-d'oeuvre GEufs brouilles, au Jambon Boeuf braise aux Nouilles Sauce piquante Pdtfe de lidvre Pouding aux figues Fromage Cafe noir. Saucisson de Foie-gras Omelette aux Crevettes Chateaubriand k la Moelle Pommes de terre a la maltre d' hotel Chaudfroid de Faisan Souffte 4 1' Ananas. Ecrevisses au Natiirel Filets de Soles aux Aubergines Cotelettes de Pore, Sauce Robert Pommes Mirettes Terrine de Becasse a la Perigoutdine Salade de Chicoree Souffle a la Creole. {December) Crevettes, beurre frais CEufs poches, aux epinards Escalopes de veau, milanaise Pommes pailles Timbale de poirea 30 THE MENU BOOK. DINNER— LE DINER. The word " dinner " {diner, f.)is supposed to be a corrup- tion of dix heures, indicating the hour at which in the days of Norman rule this meal was taken. In a book published in 1 5 12, entitled the Household Book, it is stated that the family rose at six, breakfasted at seven, dined at ten, supped at four, and closed the gates at nine p.m. Dinner with all classes forms the principal meal of the day. The working and middle classes take it at mid-day, whilst the better classes and fashionable society partake of it between 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. The aristocracy have always dined later in the day than the other classes. The number of courses of a dinner depends on the circumstances of the host and hostess, but the courses have increased with time and fashion, whilst the number of dishes served have decreased ; that is to say, instead of serving two soups, two or three fish, and as many entries, not more than one, or at the most two, are now placed on modern menus. One must not overlook the fact that the greater the variety of dishes introduced in a menu, the greater must be the waste. The present tendency is for shorter meads — that is, fewer dishes than formerly ; but the maxim is, " Let there be choice of excellent quality, well-cooked, and daintily served." The gastronomic world of this country owes a debt of gratitude to H.M. King Edward as regards dinners, for he has expressed a wish that aX the houses where he dines dinners should be quickly served, and never last more than an hour. Hence short dinners have now become the rule as well as the fashion. This has a great significance, for the all-important fact that the dishes selected for a recherche dinner shall gain in quality what they lose in quantity. A short resume of the various courses that constitute a " full-course dinner " is given, under the respective headings, in order to explain the correct service, suit- ability, and character of the various dishes belonging to each cours«. DINNER~LE DINER. 31 SPECIMEN DINNER MENUS A SIMPLE MENU. French. English. Soup : Ox-tail Fish : Fillets of Cod {Normandy style) Entree : Mutton Cutlets (Milanese style) Roast : Roast Turkey stu'ffed with Chestnuts Salad Sweet : Viennese Pudding. Queue de Bceuf Poisson : Filets de Cabillaud k la Normande Entree : C6telettes de Mouton k la Milanaise Rati : Dinde rdtie aux Marrons Salade Pouding El la Viennoise. Season — January or February. Note. — It will be observed that no vegetables are given in' the above bill of fare. One or -two vegetables should always be served ; these are selected according to taste and season. The following, in addition to potatoes, is a list of vegetables procurable in January : artichokes (Globe and Jerusalem), brussels sprouts, celery, greens, savoys, salsify, parsnips, turnips, Spanish onions. TWELVE MONTHLY MENUS IN FRENCH. A January Menu. Consornme ChifEonade Puree a la Reine Filets de Raie au gratin Salmi de Perdreaux Artichauts k la Barigoule Filet de Boeuf braise Pommes de terre Duchesse Sarcelle rotie Salade d' Oranges Charlotte a la St. Jose Huttres en caisses k la Diable Dessert Cafe turque. II. A February Menu. Hors-d'CEuvre Russe Petites Marmites Filet de Saumon bouilli. Sauce Verte Poulardes k la Supreme Selle d'Agneau rotie a,ux Epinards ' Jambon de Prague Sauce Cumberland Canard Roti Salade de Saison Pommes Julienne Peches k la Melba Friandises Sardines Diables Dessert. 32 THE MENU BOOK. III. A March Menu. Potage de Tomates a I'Americaine Darne de Cabillaud grille, Sauce Tartare Filets de Boeuf pique a la Brillat-Savarin Pat6 de Cailles Mac^doiue de Legumes i la Poulette Caneton R6ti Pommes de terre Anna Salade de laitues Bombe Glacee Richelieu Compote de Mirabelles patisseries assorties Dessert. A May Menu. Consomme a la Victoria Truites k la Chambord Blanchailles Quenelles de Volaille a la Nantaise Filets de Mouton aux Concombres farcies Canetons d'Aylesbury Salade m^lang^e Artichauts au buerre fondu Pouding aux Cerises Parfait au Moka praline Ddmes d'honneur Cafe Liqueurs. vn. A July Menu. Consommi a la Colbert St. Pidrre 4 la Talleyrand Blanchailles ^ I'lndienne Chaudfroid de Quenelles de Veau Poulet t la Milanaise Cailles bardees k la Broche Salade d'ete Bananas farcies aux fraises Creme renver.sfee Fruits et Dessert Caf6 i la Tuique. IV. An April Menu. Potage Julienne (maigre) Eperlans frits 4 la Brochette Vol-au-vent de Guochis Dame de Saumon braise Croutes aux Champignons Salade de Cardons Abricots t la Conde Pouding Diplomate au Marasquin Tomates i I'Americaine Hultres a la Diable Dessert Caf6 noir. VI A June Menu. Hors-d'CEuvres varies Bisque d'Ecrevisses Petites Tirabales de Filets de Sole Ris d'Agneau braises en caisses Jambon braise au Champagne Haricots verts sautees Poularde k I'Ecossaise Pommes Soufflees Pouding a la Prussieune_ Corbeilles de Glacfe fantaisie Petites croutes a la Norfolk Dessert Cafe Liqueurs VIII. An Aug:ust Menu. Croute au pot Filets de Merlans i. la Momay Quenelles de Volaille a la Turque Filets de Boeuf ^ la Bordelaise Pommes de terre i la Bignon Aubergines au gratin Reine-Claudes a rimpera trice Canapes de Banaues Fruits et Dessert. DINNER— LE DINER. 33 FACSIMILE OF FRENCH MAYORAL DINNER MENU CARD, REPRESENTING THE ORDER OF LA LEGION D'HONNEUR. 34 THE MENU BOOK. IX. A September Menu. Olives d'Espagne sur Canapes Radis, Salami Pur6e de Gibier Samon k la HoUandaise Rouelles de Veau Choux de Bruxelles au lard Gigot de Mouton braisfe a la Bretonne Cailles ilrla Broche Salade Pommes Failles Souffle au Riz Glace ii 1' Ananas Gaufrettes Suisses Laitance de Cabillaud fum6, X. An October Menu. Consomme a la Chasseur Barbue bouillie. sauce huitres Filets de Sole a la Tyrolienne Carre de Mouton braisS aux Navets Souffles de Perdreaux a la Reine Sorbet a I'Imperiale Dindon roti au cresson Salade de C^leri Savarin au Rhum Compote de Poires Fromage de Brie Dessert. •^••1^- XI. XII. A November Menu. Hors-d'CEuvre Russe Consomme Demi-Tortue Filets de Barbue a la Salamandre Ris de Veau 4 la Regence Filets de Boeuf &, la Rossini Poularde de Bresse rdtie Salade Japonaise Parfait de C^Uri Pouding k la Saxon Glace Montreuil Canapes de filets de Harengs Dessert. A December Menu. Consomm^ ^ la Moelle Potage crSme de riz Turbot, sauce HoUandaise Boeuf garni k la Vichy Chou-fleurs Sauce Mousseuse Timbale de Foie-gras Faisan de BohSme Salade Imperiale Bombe Nesselrode Patisseries Paillettes au Parmesan Fruits et Dessert. •^{■■m DINNER— LE DINER. 35 SPECIMEN DINNER MENU. Hors-d'CEuvre varies Potage : Consomme Brunoise Poissons : Saumon a la Cardinal Blanchailles a I'lndienne Entrees : Poussins ^ la Souvaroff Tournedos k la Choron Releve : Gigot d'Agneau r6ti Asperges, Sauce Mousseline. Granite au Kirsch CaiUes a la Broche Rdti . Salade Polonaise Entremets : Charlotte Fougdres Glace Carmen Canapes St. Jaques Dessert. SPECIMEN MENUS FOR VARIOUS SEASONS. Menu du Diner. Le 1$ Mars. Hors-d'CEuvre : Anchois sur Canapes Pofage : Consomme Fleury Poisson : Fillets d'Anguille i la Juive, Sauce Tartare Entree : Tournedos i la Bearuaise Pommes Parisienue Rati : Canard roti Salade a la Franjaise Entremets : Concombres farcies etoufi6e Riz 4 rimpera trice Tourte a la Rhnbarbe Bonne Bouche : Hultres k la Diable en caisses. Bill of Pare. March i$th. Side Dish : Anchovy fillets on toast Soup ; Clear - Soup (Rice and Vegetable garnish) Fish : Fried Fillets of Eel (Jewish fashion), Tartare Sauce Made Dish : Tournedos (Bcarnaise style) Parisian Potatoes Roast : Roast Duck French Salad Vegetable : Stuped Cucumber (baked) Swee.ts : Rice Mould (Empress style) Rhubarb Tart Savoury : Devilled Oysters in Cases. 36 THE MENU BOOK. MENUS MAIQRES Dejeuners — Anchois sur canap6s CEufs a, la Reine MargotsJ Homard — Sauce Gribiche Haricots beurre nouveaux Poires t la Jeanne Granier Dessert. Escargots a la Bourguig- nonne OEufs el la Vaucourt Raie au buerre noire Spagheti k la Milanaise Croutes aux fruits Dessert. LENTEN MENUS. Luncheons. Hors-d'CEuvre Cabillaud grille Sauce bearnaise CEufs moUets aux epinards Sarcelles k I'oranges amSres Riz k la Conde Dessert. Favorits de Caviar CEufs frits aux epinards Sole a la Portugaise Champignons sous la cloche G3,teau mousseline k I'orange Dessert. A Lenten Dinner. Escargots en Chablis Consomm^ Fermifire Saumou, Sauce Genoise Blanchailles au Paprika Petites Bouch6es aux Cfepes Bordure de Homard a la Norvdgienne Cotelettes de Semoule k la Jardiniere Salade de Celeri Ponding a I'Ambassadrice Bombe de P6che en Surprise Nouilles au Gratin. MENUS MAIQRES. Diner Careme — A Lenten Dinner. French : Purfee de Choufleur, maigre Blanchailles au Naturel Souchet de Carrelets Mousses d'Homard a la Cardinal Cotelettes de Turbot k rindienne Darne de Saumon k la Sufidoise Chou de Mer k la HoUandaise Chartreuse aux Oranges Caf6 frappfi k la Neige j^clairs de Sardines. English Cauliflower Soup Whttebail FlouiiJcrs in Souchet Lobster Mousses, Cardinal Sauci Turbot Cutlets {Indian style) Cold Salmon (Swedish style) Seakale with Dutch Sauce Orange Jelly (Chattnuse style) Iced Coffee with Whipped Cream Sardine Eclairs. SPECIMEN MENUS. 37 SPECIMEN MENUS IN FRENCH AND ENGLISH, Season— May-June. Menu. Bill of Fare. Consomme Brunoise Filets de Soles a la Regence Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Clamart Petits Pois i la Mayonnaise Cdte de Boeuf roti a I'Anglaise Creme d'Asperges k I'Argenteuil Canard farcies, 6touliee- Salade d' Orange Pommes Nouvelles Mousse frappee, Prince Puckler G5,teaux Pithiviei's Fromage Fruits et Dessert. Clear Vegetable Soup (Brunoise style) Fillets of Sole {Regent style) Lnmb Cutlets {Clamart style) Green Peas with Salad Dressing Roast Beef with Yorkshire pudding and Horseradish Sauce Asparagus in Savoury Jelly Braised Duck, Stuffed Orange Salad New Potatoes Iced Chocolate Mousse with Chestnut Puree Pithiviers Cakes Cheese Fruit and Dessert. •^1-ls Season— June-July. Potage : Creme k I'Oseille Poissons : Sole au Gratin Petites Bouchees de Crevettes Entree : Cotelettes de Veau aux puree de Pois vert Rdti : Poulet r6ti Salade de Laitue Pommes Souffles Entremets : . Omelettes sucree Bavaroise aux Peclies. Soup : Cream of Sorrel Fish : Sole au Gratin {baked) Small Puff Paste Patties of Prawns Entree :^ Veal Cutlets with Puree of Green Peas Roast : Roast Chicken Lettuce Salad Puff Potatoes Sweets : Sweet Omelet , Peach Cream. 338 THE MENU BOOK. Season— November-December. French. Hors-d' ceuvre : Varies. Potages : Consomm^ k la Royale Potage i la Mulligatawny Poissons : Sole au vin blanc Eperlans frite, Sauce R^moulade Entrees : Petites Bouch6es de Faisan El la Moderne Terrine de Lapereaux Relevi : Gigot de Mouton, Galois, Legumes Rdti : Sarcelles r6ti Pommes Julienne, Salade Entremets : Pouding Souffle aux Pommes Crdme glac^e de Prunes de Damas Savoureux : Petites Croustades au Parmesan. English. Assorted Appetisers : Selection of Side Dishes Soups : Clear Soup with Royal Custard Thick Mulligatawny Fish: Soles with White Wine Sa%ice Fried Smelts, Remoulade Sauce, Tomato Flavour Made Dishes Small Pheasant Patties Terrine of Rabbit or Hare Remove : Roast Leg of Welsh Mutton Vegetables Roast: Roast Teal Straw Potatoes and Salad Sweets : Apple Souffle Pudding Damson Cream Ice Savoury : Parmesan Cheese, Cream in Crusts. FRENCH FAMILY French. I, Potage S6vign6 Filets 'de Turbot i. la Vatel Poulets de Grains en Cocotte Flageolet? au Beurre Cailles de Vigne sur Canapfes Salade de Chicorfie Glace, Vanille et Fraise Tartelettes aux Araandes DINNER MENUS. English. Sevigni Soup Fillets of Turbot {Vatel style) Spring Chicken {Cocotte style) Flageolets tossed in Butter Quails on Toast Chicoree Salad Vanilla and Strawberry Ice Almond Tartlets SPECIMEN MENUS. 39 FRENCH FAMILY DINNER MENUS. French. Potage k la Reine Truite Saumonee, sauce Genoise Ris de Veau aux Petits Pois Perdreau roti Salade de C6!6ri en branches Fonds d'Artichauts a ritalienne Compote de Fruits au Kirsch Biscuit Manque. II. English. White Chicken Puree Boiled Salmon Trout, Genoise Sauce Sweetbread with Green Peas Roast Partridge Celery Salad Artichoke Bottoms in Brown Sauce Stewed Fruit with Kirsch Syrup French Biscuits. Hors-d'CEuvre ConsommS Grisonne Filet de Sole a I'Horly Cotes d'Agneau aux Points d'Asperges Caneton de Rouen poele Petits Pois Paysanne Pommes Noisettes Salade Fran9aise Tartelettes de Fraises Souffle au Parmesan. Appetisers. Clear Beef Broth with Batter Garnish Fillets of Soles, Fried, with Tomato Sauce Lamb Cutlets with Asparagus Points Rouen Duckling braised iif the pot Green Peas (Farmer's style) , Potatoes Browned in Butter French Salad Strawberry Tartlets Parmesan Souffle. IV. Consomme au Tapioca Cabillaud, Sauce aux Cypres Poulet saute aux Champignons Gigot d'Agneau a I'Anglaise Salade de Laitue Haricots Verts a la Poulette Tarte aux Cerises, Tapioca Clear Soup Boiled Cod, Caper Sauce Stewed - Chicken with Mushrooms Roast Leg of Lamb Lettuce Salad French Beans (Poulette style) Cherry Tart, 40 THE MENU BOOK. PETITS DINERS.-SMALL DINNERS. Petite Marmite a la Fraiifaise Vol-au-vent A. la Toulouse Perdreau sur Canape Cfeleri au Jus Croutes aux Peches. Consomme k la Royale Paupiettes de Soles Cuissot de Chevreuil k la Poivrade Asperges, Sauce MousseUne Sorbet au Rhum Chapon Truffee Salade de Laitue £i, la Mayonnaise P3.le de Grouse Pommes au riz Meringuees. A Recherche Diner. CrSme a la Marquise Croustades aux Huttres Turban de filets de Soles a r Ambassadrice Filet de BcEuf Braise Ris de veau k la Cardinal Pctits pois a la Fran9aise Sorbet au Kirsch Faisan barde au Cresson Pommes Julienne SoufHes d'Epinards Glace Dame blanche Gclteaux Madelaines. Potage fausse Tortue Filets de Turbot d la Normande Cuissot de veau k TAUemande Truffes au Champagne Souvenirs de Foie-gras Dinde rotie Salade a la Fran9aise Artichauts, Sauce Chasseur Glace Plombidre. Hors-d'CEuvre. Consomme ttlestine Bisque de Homard Turbotin braise a la RuSse Vol au Vent de Ris de Veau Toumedos Catalane Pommes Rissolees Canetou d'Aylesbury Roti Salade Petits Pois au Beurre Biscuit Glac6 Friandises Dessert. Consomme au Riz Paupiettes de Merlans Entrecote grilles Haricots vertu sautfes Faisan roti Pommes frites, Salade Rouding Nesselrode, ROYAL MENUS. 4,1 ROYAL MENUS. Dinner of H.M. King Edward VII. Consomms k I'lmp^riale, or? CrSme de Pois Printaiiifere Coquilles. d'Huitres au Gratin Filets de Truites a la Chambord ~ Cailles a la Diane Selle de Pre-Sal6 a la Nifoise Chaudfroid de Poulets A. la Renaissance Sarcelles Roties a I'Orange, Sauce Porto Salade k la Rachel Asperges d'Argenteuil, Sauce Mousseuse Souffles de Fruits a la Leopold Patisseries Parisienne Barquattes de Caviar a la Russe Glaces 4 la Venitienne Paniers de Friandises. (March) Dinner of H.M. the King of Italy. Consomme Julienne Truites au Beurre Tournedos k la Semmering Chaud-froid de Poulardes Selle de .Chevfeuil Compote, Salade Asperges, Sauce Mousseline Souffle a la Desio Glace MeI6e Fromage Fruits Dessert Cafe Noir. {August) Luncheon of H.M. King Edward VII. Hors-d'CEuvre CEufs Brouilles Pointes d' Asperges Filet de Barbue Mornay Cotes d'Agneau aux Petits Pois Chaud Froid de VolaiUes Pommes Bonne-Femme Salade Romaine Dessert Benedictine, (May) Dinner of H.M. the King of Spain. Consomme de Volaille Glace CrSme, d'Epinards Saumon d'Ecosse, Sauce Laguipi^re Aiguillette de Boeuf Fondante Pommes Casa Campo Poularde Bagatelle Bouchee des Rois Aubergines a I'Orientale Biscuit Glace a la Napolitaine Patisserie Feuilletee Cheese Wafers. (June) v/indsor ©aatle Se*tMHU% Am. -i>At.iM 3.0 Jvirt iJ«S REDUCED FACSIMILE OF ONE OP HIS MAJESTY KING EDWAPD VII. S DINHER MENUS. Dinner Menu ot H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. (Marlborough House.) Consomme a la Main tenon Saumon, Sauce HoUandaise Poussins k la Gauloisc. Canetons de Rouen 4 la Beauvilliers Selles de Mouton de Galles Jambons de Prague B6cassines Asperges Vertes Pdches du Cap k la Montebello Souffles au Parmesan, {March is(, igoQ.) Translation ol Menu— H.M. Kine of Spain. Consommfe de Torme Potage k la Maintenon Petits p&l6s de riz 4 la Pifemontaise Quenelles de Caneions piqu6es k la Senn C6telettes d'Agneau froides &. la Princesse Pi6ce de Boeuf brais6e k TEspagnole Petiis pois au beurre Haricots verts sautfes Poulardes du Mans rdties Salade k I'Ambassadrice Asperges, Sauce HoIUndaise Gateaux Mousseline k la Cibdard Glaci k la P6dro TarteleitesTA la Gisors (rS* tfarcH, 1908,) f6 at dema y /iu/aa FACSIMILE OF A GALA DANQnET MEND GIVEN BV H.M. THE KING OF SPAIN, AT THE ROYAL PALACE, MADRID. 44 THE MENU BOOK. Luncheon of M.M. the King of Norway. CEufs poches & la Princesse Saumon du Rhin grill6, sauce Vertc Ris de Veau A. la Rothschild Filet de Bceuf piqu6 a la Regence, sauce Porto Savarins aux Fruits frapp6s Biscottes SI 1' Alexandra. Dejeuner of H.M. the King of Siam. Tortue des Indes Ilomards k la Delmonico au riz Sclle de Mouton, tomates farcis, haricots verts, et pommes soufflees Poulets k la Mascotte Salade modemc Pfiches d. la Melba Fromage Fruits Mocca. (August) Dinner of H.M. the King of Denmark. Potage Louis Philippe Rissoles & la Pompadour Cabillaud Selle d'Agneau a la Flamande Poulets k la Vicomtesse Homards en Bellevue Faisans R6tis Compote, Salade Fonds d'Artichauts k I'Espagnole Glace Dessert. (September) Dinner of H.M. the King of Sweden. Consomme aux Profiteroles Bouchees Cardinal CEufs a la Wladimir Coeur de Filet a la Massenet Pommes Noisettes Chaudfroid de Poulet a la Gelee Salade Marocaine Asperges en Branches Sauce Mousseline Petits Pois de Crdme Caramel * Glace Panachee Patisserie. (April) * The King's favourite dish. Dinner of H.M. the King of Portugal. Consomme k la Chasseur Filets de Soles a I'Horley Sauce Remoulade Poularde en Casserole k la Edouard VII. Chaudfroid de Cotelettes de Prfesale a la Belle Alliance Cailles farjies en caisses a la LucuUus Chartreuse de fruits a la Diploma te Petits Fours k la Frangaise Fruits et Dessert Caf6 Noir. (May) ROYAL* MENUS. 45 \\l /cfyj &^- f/^e^*^M** A«^;»ii FACSIMILE- OF A DINiNER MENU OF H.M. IHB EMPEROR or GERMANY. 46 THE MENU BOOK. TABLE D'HOTE MENUS. Hors-d'CEuvre Cr(5me J6rusalem Filets cle Sole Meunifire CEufs poches Portugaise Noisette d'Agneau Bergfire Poulet grille. Sauce Tartare Pommes Grenobloise Petits pois au Sucre Crfinie St. Claire glac6e Fromage. 3s. 6d. per head. (March ) Hors-d'Oiuvre Consomme Viveur Filets de Barbue a I'Anglaise Caille Froide Richelieu Contrefilet de Boeuf a la Broche Pommes Nouvelles Petits Pois aux Laitues. Poussin Grand M6re Salade de Saison Glace Plombidre Dessert. 55. per head. (April) Hors-d'CEuvre Veloutfe de Tomates Ox Tail Soup Suprfime de Turbotia Boitel Pommes Nouvelles i I'Anglaise Selle d'Agneau k la Richelieu Ris de Veau braise aux epinards Pcularde de Mans rdtie au Cresson Salade de Saison Asperges d'Argenteuil, Sauce Mousseline Parfait Praline Friandises Compotier de Fruits. ys. 6d. per head. (June) Hors-d'CEuvre 4 la Russe Consommii Princesse Fausse Bisque Timbales de Filets de Sole Grimaldi Poussin au.x petits pois k la Fran9aise Selle de Mouton 4 la Broche Tomates Champignons Pommes persillfees Cailles de Vigne roties au Cresson Salade de cceurs de Romaine Asperges, Sauce Mousseliue Fraises au Royal Port Ananas glac6 dans son fruit Dessert. 6s. per head. (May) Caviar d'Astrakaa Tortue Claire SuprSme de Turbot, Duglerc Poussin t la Paysaune Langue de Renne fumee Cailles de Vigne bardees Salade Chips Asperges Vertes Roses Glacces Friandises Fondu au Chester Dessert Cafe Noir. los. 6d. per head. (June) Consomme Mousseline Filets de Sole Americaine Coles d'Agneau Marechale Points d'Asperges a la Creme Cailles Cocottes aux Trufles CcEurs de Laitues Parfait de Foie-gras Suprfimes de Volaille Jeannette Terrine de Canard Roueuuaise Macfedoine de Fruits glac6 Mille Feuilles Corbeilles de Fruits Caf6 Turque. 1 25. 6(1. per head. (Feb. ) MISCELLANEOUS MENUS. 47 ^^ej^adiijcj-^l^t^c^'l^icl ''//?. BJ7J /tnt'dote. /"or Cout "^CLAM CoCJfTA/LS GreenTurtle IpBSTERjkuTE -^ ^ Cucumbers a laJ^DrJ'chhmm Jure Cure for Ptomaine Ji ' Filet °/BEEFjsrd>niir.fl^ Potatoes a J»wE Ano'^ -=^9^ ms^RiNCH rtturn Wyom/S3/Ai^ Club. ^'P'/fOASTPzoVER •^i^ ^ neod no chauffeur \ SalADE CHIFFOnADt ^ALfKDE ChiFFONADE 'St HONORS COFFEE JtrtdM'it^ a-VH NESSELPODE PUDDING AN AMERICAN MOTOR CLUB DINNER MENU. England and Norway. Menu of a Dejeuner composed in honour of the King and Queen of Norway's visit to England : Menu. E-Escalopes de Turbot k la Nansen-K N-Navarin de Poulet i la Marengo-0 G-Goulash Viennoise a la Xavier-R L-Langouste en salade, Stroganov-V A-Alumettes de Cel^ri k la Grfique-E N-Neigeau Champagne k la Dantzig-G D-Darioles de PSches k la Royale-K 48 THE MENU BOOK. PRIVATE DINNER MENUS. Hors-d'CEiivre ; Salade d'Anchois Cel6ri Rave k la Tartare Olives de Lucca Potages •: Consomme Riche Fausse Tortue Liee Pois'ion: Turbot i I'lmperiale Merlans a la Colbert Entrees : Mousse au Jambon Poularde de la Bresse, Chevalidre Releve : Selle de Mouton t la Paysanne Rdti : Faisan de BohSme sur Croustade Pommes Failles Salade de Saison Legume : Choufleur k la Polonaise Entremets : Charlotte de Pommes Gdteau St. Honorfe Bombe Petit Due Dessert Petits Fours Caf6. i2s. 6d. per head. {Feb.) Mignardises Hors-d'CEuvre Potage Crfime de Volaille Valenciennes Barbue k la Parisienne Selle de pre-sale Bouquetidre Salmis de bfecasses Poulardes truffees Terrine Voisin Salade gauloise Cardons a la nioelle Nelusko glace Gaufrettes — Petits fours Desserts Oafs Liqueur. IDS. 6d. per head. {Jan.) Huitres Royales Sole a la Palace Poulet k la Stanley Caille de Vigne Rotie Salade Coeur de I^itue Asperges NouveUes Sauce HoUandaise Dessert. {March) Crevettes Roses glacees Crfime k la Dubarry Poupiettes de Soles Demi-denil Ris de Veau Trianon Rouennais k 1' Imperial Quartier d'Agneau roti Salade Quatre Saiaons Panachfi k la Maltre d'lldtel Bombe Fran9iUon. Consomme Montmorency Saumon de Sauce Genevoise Pommes NouveUes Mignonnettes d'Agneau aux Petits Pois Risotto Milanaise Poularde k la Vendome Salade Nipoise Asperges en Branches Sauce Mousseline Mousseline aux Fraises Fruits et Dessert. {April) PRIVATE DINNER MENUS. 49 Menu : Consomme Piincesse Dame de Saumon Sauce Genevoise Crfepinettes de pigeons aux Pointes d'Asperges Jarabon de Prague Sauce Espagnole Gigot de Pri-Sale i la Godard Poulardes du Mans a la P^rigord Salads Lyonaise Petits Pois Nouveaux Crfime Glacee aux Praises GS-teau Moderne Paillettes Dessert. {Spring) Menu ; CrSme Velout6 Duchesse Truites du Rhin Sauce Chambord Filet de Boeuf i. la Richelieu Supreme de Volaille a la LucuUus Aspic de Foie-gras en Belle- vue Faisaus Flanques de Cailles Salade de Saison Asperges de Paris Sauce Mousseline Bombe Prince Piickler GS,tf!au Trois Frdres Dessert Cafe Moka. BILL OF FARE OF A TYPiCAL ENGLISH DINNER. Soup : Clear Gravy and Tomato Fish : Boiled Turbot, Dutch Sauce Whitebait (plain and devilled) Entries : Chicken Cutlets Stewed Cucumbers Braised Sweetbread, larded Mashed Potatoes Remove : Sirloin of Beef Horseradish Sauce Yorkshire Pudding Seakale and Potatoes Roast : Larded Guinea Fowl Lettuce Salad Sweets : Brown Bread Pudding Apricot Creams Savoury : Oysters on Horseback. {September) D 50 THE MENU BOOK. A FRENCH CHRISTMAS DINNER. Diner de Noel. Consomme Chambellan Supreme de Soles Mornaj' Filet de Boeuf k la Rossini Poularde Soufflee a la Princesse Pave a la Lucullus Sorbet k la Cyrano Asperges en Branches Sauce Mascotte Faibans rotis en VoUiere sur Croustade Salade a la Marianne Glace D&me blanche Gdteau Trois FrSres Temple Historique Fruits Desserts. SPECIMEN MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS DINNERS. I. Chicken Soup Fried Soles Anchovy Sauce Jugged Hare Red Currant Jelly Roast Sirloin of Beef Horseradish Sauce Yorkshire Pudding Vegetables Plum Pudding Brandy Sauce Vanilla Custard Mince Pies. II. Oxtail Soup Boiled Turbot Shrimp Sauce Mutton Cutlets with Braised Celery Roast Turkey stuffed with Chestnuts Cauliflower and Potatoes Plum Pudding Apple Tart and Custard Chocolate Cream Ice. III. Mock Turtle Soup Fried Whiting Lemon Sauce FJUets of Beef with Tomatoes Veal and Ham Pie Roast Goose, stuffed Apple Sauce Clipped Potatoes Braised Celery Plum Pudding Mince Pics Vanilla Cream Ice. PRIVATE DINNER MENUS. 51 DINER A LA RUSSE. 14-20 guests at Hors d'CEuvre : Caviare glace Salade d'Anchois Folates : Tortue Claire Puree Poissons : Saumon Bouilli Sauce de Homard' Filets de Soles k I'Orly Sauce Tartare Entrees : Supremes de Volaille aux Truffes Tournedos de Boeuf a la Bfeamaise 15s. per head. Releve : Quartier d'Agneau r6ti Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise Rdts : Canetons de Rouen Cailles bardces Petits Pois Nouveaux Entremets : CEufs de Pluviers en Croustade Creme aux Framboises Suedoise d'Abricots Gateau k la Mascotte Bonne Bouche Glaces Sorbet au Champagne. Petites Coquilles d'Ecrevisse. A MENU IN THREE LANQUAQES. English. Clear Soup, Italian Style Pumpkin Soup. Grilled Soles, St. Germain style Chicken Fillets, Ambassador style Braised Leg of Mutton Champagne Sherbet Rouen Ducklings Orange Sauce Mixed Salad Green Peas, Farmer's style Peaches, Cardinal style Cheese Cakes. French Consomme 4 I'ltalienne Potage au Potiron Filets de Soles, Grilles k la Saint Germain Supreme de Volaille Ambassadrice Gigot de pre-sale a la Saint Hubert Sorbet au Champagne Canneton de Roueu k la Bigarrade Salade Melee Petits Pois Paj'sanne PSches Cardinal Ramequins. German. , Italienische Kraftbriihe Kurbis-Suppe Gerost. Seezungenschnitten nach St. Gerraancr-Art Gefliigelbrustchen nach Dotschafterin-Art Hammelschlegel nach Sankt Hubertus Scherbet mit Schaumwein Rouenaiser Ente mit Pommeranzen Gemischter Salat Erbsen auf Bauern-Art Pfirsiche auf Kardinals-Art Kase-Tortchen. 52 THE MENU BOOK. SUPPER AND SUPPER MENUS. Souper et Menus de Soupers. This is the term for the last meal of the day, and one which has a wide and varied meaning. During the Middle Ages supper used to be served as early as 5 p.m., when it was customarj' to serve soup ; from this the name supper is supposed to have originated. History tells us that soups, or supper dishes, originally consisted of liquid food both savoury and sweet, such as frumenty, porridge, and various kinds of spoon meat, which were eaten with pieces of bread called sops, soppets or sippets. Where late dinner is served, as is usually the case at the present time, supper is rarely eateUr So-called ball suppers and theatre suppers are fashion- able both here and abroad. There is no set rule as to the kind of dishes served for supper, but when partaken of as an every-day meal supper may consist of dishes hot or cold, with or without soups, vegetables or even sweets. Cheese and salad when in season are usually included, but this is not to be regarded as a hard-and-fast rule Light cakes and fancy gateaux, tea or coffee, are some- times included in a supper menu, which shows that many regard this meal as but a light repast. The foUomng menus are selected as specimens for so-termed set suppers : SPECIMEN MENUS FOR SUPPERS. Menus de Soupers. French. I. English. Darne de Saumon k la Salmon Stoak, Rcmoulade R6moulade style Roulade de Veau en Veal Roll, coated, with Chaudfroid Chaudfroid Sauce Jambon k la Gelee Yorli Hum with Aspic Jelly Salade Salad Risotto ci ritalienne Italian Risotto Souffl6 a la Mexienne Cold Chocolate Souffli Denises aux Amandes FrosteJ Almond Sandwiches Fruits et Dessert. Fruit and Dessert. II. Ecrevisses en Aspic Prawns in Savoury Jelly Darioles de Crfime de Volaille Chicken Creams Boeuf 4 la Presse Pressed Beef Pates de Veau et Jambon Veal and Ham Patties Salad de Haricots Panaches Haricot Bean Salad CrSme k la Romaine Roman Cream Compote de Poires Strwed Pears Fromage de Camcmbert Cauiemhert Cheese C6Ieri. Celery. SUPPER MENUS. 53 il^euu iu ^oupev. 8 MAI, l£CS. Saumon k I'Essence Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Printani^re Chaudfroidde Cailles k la Sefton QEufs de Pluviers a la Russe Gelees Har!equin^. Chartreuses Cdloniales Paniers-aux Raisins Huttres en Surprise' L,™™«=J>essert FACSIMILE OF A PRIVATE SDPPER MENO. 54 THE MENU BOOK. MENU DE SOUPER. III. Denises Suedoise Filets de Boeuf li'la Madrid Salade de Cel^ri a la Rachel Foie-gras a la. Dumas Pate de Volaillc et Jambon Bordure de Creme de Homard SUPPER MENU. Swedish Sandwiches Fillets of Beef, Madrid style Celery and Truffle Salad Foie-gras CroHtes Chicken and Ham Fie Border of Lobster Cream Petites Crimes k la Princesse ^'"'^^ ^''^'""^ (Princess style) Fromage de Roquefort Roquefort Cheese Biscuits de Fromage. Cheese Biscuits. S5|"|S SOUPER DE BAL. Huitres au Nature! Plats Chauds : Homard k la Gauloise Mauviettes en Casserole Ris de Veau en Caisses k la Chasseur Plats Froids : Filets de Soles en Aspic Zephires de Foie-Gras a la St. Martin Carr6 de Mouton k la Boh6mienne Dindonneau farci k la Moderne Jambon de York a la Gelee Faisan roti Pate de Pigeon el la Franyaise Salade de Saison Denises a la Princesse Entremets : Gel6e au Champagne Crfime aux Amandes Charlottes Mignonnes Corbeilles de Nougat k la Chantilly patisserie Dessert. BALL SUPPER. Natives Hot Dishes : Lobster served in Shells Larks stewed in Casserole Sweetbread iv cases with Mushroom Puree Cold Dishes : Fillets of Soles in Savoury Jelly Zephyrs of Foie-gras (Goose Liver) Neck of Mutton (Bohemian style) Young Turkey, stuffed York Ham with Aspic Jelly Roast Pheasant Pigeon Pie, French fashion Salad Princess Sandwiches Sweets : Champagne Jelly Almond Cream Little Russian Charlottes Nougat Baskets with Whipped Cream French Pastry Dessert. ^^ SUPPER MENUS. 55 SPECIAL SUPPER PARTY MENU. French. Consomme de Volaille Mayonnaise de Homard Chaudfroid Mauviettes LucuUus Mousse de Jambon Parisienne Filet BcEuf pique Bouquetidre Galantine Volaille truffee Poulet Surrey a la Gelee Jambon de York Salade Henriette Crdme de Fraise G&teaux Duchessc Petits Fours Dessert. English. Clear Chickeri Broth Lobster Mayonnaise Chaudfroid of Larks with Truffles Ham Mousse (Parisian style) Fillet of Beef, larded and braised, with Vegetables Chicken Galantine, truffled Surrey Fowls with Aspic York Ham Cauliflower, Bean, and Truffle Salad Strawberry Cream Duchess Cake Fancy Pastry Dessert. •^I-I^* SOUPER DU BAL. Salade.de Homard Filets de Sole k la New York Medallions de Pigeon a la Monaco Chartreuse de Faisan Souffle de Volaille Macedoine - Cailles en Aspie Rdtis. De Dindon, Grouse Pate de Gibier Galantine a la Reine Jambon d'York Langue de Boeuf glacee Gelees aux Vins et Liqueurs Meringues a la Suisse Crdmes varides Salade de Fruits au Marasquin Triffle a I'Anglaise Dessert Bon-bons Consomme au Depart. MENU DU SOUPER. Petites Tables Tortue Claire — Citrons Cotelettes d'Agneau aux Petits Pois Poulets rotis au Cresson Cailles sur Canapes Froid Consomme de Volaille Paupiettes de Truites Venitienne Salade de Homards Petites Cotelettes a I'Ecarlate Poulardes Poelees Macedoines de Fruits Rafratchis Petits Gateaux Assortis [Consommd au depart. (t4 Juillet) 56 THE MENU BOOK. BALL SUPPER MENU OF H.M. THE KINQ, GIVEN AT BUCKINQHAM PALACE, JULY loth, 1908: Consommfe Riche Filets de Truites k la Britania Cendrillons de Soles a la Bagration Medallions de Volaille en Belle-vue Cotelettes d'Agneau k I'Ambassadrice Chaufi'oix de Cailles a la Moscovite Poulets et Langue a 1' Aspic Jambon de Prague k la Montpensier Sandwiches varies Petits Pains a la Fran9aise Macedoine de Fruits au Grand Mariner Gelees PrintaniSres au Champagne Crimes Rubanees a la Parisienne Gradins de Patisserie Pieces Montees sur Socles Petites Glaces Bouqueti^res Paniers de Mignardises Limonade et Orangeade Dessert. DANCE SUPPER MENU. Consommd Chaud a la Royale Cotelettes d'Agneau au Beurre Noisette Petits Pois Clamart Poulets rotis Froid M^daillons Alexandra Eclairs de Homard Galantine de Volaille trufi6e Sandwiches varies Salade Indienne Macedoine de Fruits au Champagne ' Glace a la Vanille Glace aux Praises Corbeilles de Friandises Dessert. \ SPECIMEN menu: 57 A SPECIMEN MENU WITH QUOTATIONS. Hors-d'CEuvre varies. " Dishes alike deliglitful aod appetising." — Leigh Hunt. POTAGE. Tortile Claire. Bisque d'ecrevisses. Consomme de Volaille Royale a la Printaniere. " Soup of tlie evening, beautiful soup." — Alice in Wonderland. POISSONS. Dames de Saumon Bouilli, Sauce Mousseline. Pommes de terre nouvelles. Concombres. Filets de Sole I'Orly. " There's no meat Uke them ; I could wish my be3t friend at such a feast." — Timcn of Athens, i. 2. Releve. Filet de Bceuf pique d, la Renaissance. * What say you to a piece of beef and mustard." — Taming of the Shrew, iv. 5 Entrees Chauds. Supreme de Volaille a la Victoria. Ris de veau A la Perigueux. " The daintiest that they taste." — 3 Henry IV, Entrees Froides. Foie-gras en belle vue. Aspic de Homard. "To please all kinds of appetite?." — Massinger. Ponche A la Romaine, cigarettes Turques. " You cannot judge the hquor from the lees." — Tennyson. ROTK. Aloyau de Bceuf A I'Anglaise. Quartier d'Agneau, Sauce Menthe. " Look to the baked meats, good Angelica ; Spare not for cost." — Romeo and Juliet. Vor.AILLE, Cailles de Vigne sur Canapes. , Canetons A la Rouennaise. Pommes pailles. Petits pais nouveaux. Asperges en branches. Sauce Hollandaise. " A table richly spread in regal modes, With dishes piled, and meats of noblest sort and savour." — Milion. Entremets. Pouding souffle d la Vanille. Gelee aux fruits. Vacherin A la Chantilly. Gateaux A la Napolitaine. "A surfeit of the sweetest things." — Midsummer Night's Dream. Glace en surprise. " A piece of ice," — Taming of the Shrew. Savoureux. Petits souffles au fromage. Pailles A, la Yarmouth. ' "To make the matter savoury." — Hamlet. Dessert. " Partook a choice repast." — Massinger. Cafe noir et cognac. " Cofiee, which makes the politician wise, And see through all things with his half-shut eyes." — Pope. 58 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. PART II. HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. The hors-d'oeuvre course, which forms the so-called prelude to a complete dinner, has of late become very popular. A very large variety of 'little dishes, both plain and dressed, can be served under this heading. These dishes to the thoughtful cook present one of the best opportunities for showing his or her skill and originality in combination and garnish. Such dishes must, however, be strictly confined to such colour and such material as will harmonise with the other dishes on the menu. , Usually one or two plain and one dressed hors-d'oeuvre are served at a dinner, this being a matter of taste left to the maitre d'hotel or to the chef. Whatever the hors-d'oeuvre may consist of, let it be remembered that these little side dishes are intended to stimulate and not satisfy the appetite, i.e., they must be tempting and smart in appearance, and the portions must be very small, so as not to impair the enjoyment of the remainder of the meal. These dishes are frequently placed on the table before the guests enter the dining-room ; and, when dressed in a pretty and dainty manner, they add greatly to the effective decoration of a table. CLASSIFICATION OF HORS-D'(EUVRE. Plain Side Dishes. Note. — These, as well as certain of the dressed hors- d'oeuvres, are generally served under the name of hors-doeuvre varies. French. English. Anchois a I'huile Anchovies in oil Anchois aux cypres Anchovies with capers Anguilles fumdes Smoked eel Anguilles marinees Pickled or soused eel Betterave marin^e Pickled beetroot Boeuf fume Smoked beef Carrelots fum^s Smoked flounders HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. 59 French. Caviar glace Caviar riisse CeUri &n salade Celeri en salade Clames Americains Cornichons Cornichons a la moutarde Cresson alenois Crevettes Crevettes dressees Ecrevisse garnie Ecrevisges Escargots farcis Filets de harengs • Greuouilles marinees Harengs marines Harengs a la remoulade Huitres au naturel Jambon d'Espagne Jambon fum6 Jambon de Strasbourg Jambon Westphalie Lamproies k I'huile Langouste Langue de Boeuf fumee Langue de Renne fumee Lax fume a I'huile Maquereau marine Maquereaux k I'huile Melesses f umees Melon brod6 Melon cantaloup Melon glace CEufs, de mouettes CEufs de pluviers CEufs de vanneaux Olives d'Espagne Olives farcies Olives LucuUus pate de foie-gras Petite artichauts crus Poitrine d'oie fumee Radis au beurre Radis rose et'blanc Royans k I'huile Salami Sand panachee Sandwich aux anchois Sandwich au caviar Sandwich de foie-gras English. Iced caviare Russian caviare Celery dressed in mayonnaise Celery-falad American clams French gherkins Gherkins in mustard sauce Garden cress Prawns Dressed prawns Dressed crawfish Crayfish Stuffed snails Fillets of herrings Pickled frogs' legs Pickled herrings [sauce Pickled herrings in mustard Oysters on shells Spanish ham Smoked ham Strasburg cured and smoked ham Westphalian ham ^ Lampreys in oil Spiny lobster Smoked ox-tongue Smoked reindeer tongue , Smoked salmon preserved in oil Soused mackerel fillets Mackerel in oil Smoked sprats ' Pickled melon French rock melon (iced) Iced melon Mew eggs (gull eggs) Plovers' eggs Lapwing eggs (puvet eggs) Spanish olives Stuffed olives French olives Goose-liver pie in terrines Small young green artichokes Smoked breast of goose Small radishes with butter Radishes, pink and white Royans in oil Smoked Milan sausage Mixed sandwich with different , kinds of meat, etc. A nchovy sandwich Caviare sandwich Goose-liver sandwich 6o PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. French. Sandwich au fromage Sandwichi de homard Sandwich au jambon Sandwich aux sardines Sardines sans ar§tes Sardines au citron Sardines fumees Sardines k I'huile Sardines russe Sardines a la tomate Saucisson Wane Saucisson de Bologne Saucisson de Brunswick Saucisson de foie-gras Saucisson de foie de Stras- bourg Saucisson de jambon Saucisson de Lyon Saucisson de Milan Saucisson de Mordadelle Saucisson noir Saucisson de perigueux Saumon fume Then k I'huile Then marine Thon en salade Tomates crues Tomates farcie Tomate en salade Tomate A la tartare English. Cheese sandwich Lobster sandwich Ham sandwich Sardine sandwich Boneless sardines [sauce Sardines preserved in lemon Smoked sardines Sardines in oil Russian sardines (pickled) Sardines in tomato sauce White sausage {smoked) Bologna sausage Brunswick sausage Goose-liver sausage Strasburg liver sausage Ham sausage Lyons sausage Salami sausage Mordadella or Italian sausage Black sausage {smoked) Liver and tritffle sausage Smoked salmon {thinly sliced) Tunny fish in oil Pickled tunny fish Tunny fish salad Small fresh tomatoes, sliced Stuffed tomatoes Tomato salad Tomatoes filled with tartare sauce Note.— AU side dishes of this description should be served on small glass or china dishes, and small pats of butter ought to be handed round at the same time. Smoked provisions, such as salmon, ham, and sausage, suitable for hors-d'oeuvre, cut into very thin slices, are usually served in hors-d'oeuvre dishes. Hors d'muvre garni — Dressed Hors-d'CEuvre. App^tlssants Maconnais. — Small bread croutons hollowed out and filled with pur6e of mussels, anchovies, e^g- yolks, etc. ; decorated with savoury butter. — & la Su6doIse. — Half-moon shaped slice of brown bread spread over with anchovy and sardine paste, lined with slice of lax ' or smoked salmon, garnished with hard-boiled white of egg, gherkins, and stufied olives. Anchols sur Canapis. — Anchovy canapfees. HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. 6i Anchois et queues d'Eerevisses au Capisantis. — Anchovies and crayfish tails dressed in shells. — en Salade. — Anchovy salad dressed with oil and vinegar ; garnished with capers and hard-boiled eggs. — en Surprise. — Small choux paste rolls/ fdled with a puree of hard-boiled yolk of egg, anchovy paste, capers, and herbs ; glazed and garnished with curled anchovy fillets. Artichauts d I'Grique. — Very small blanched artichokes, marinaded in oil, vinegar, coriander seed, fennel, and other herbs ; served with its liquor. Ballotlnes de Homard i la R£f orme. — Ballotines of lobster, reform style. Barquettes de concombre, Danoise. — Small boat-shapes of cucumber filled with a puree of smoked salmon, .herring fillets, and hard-boiled eggs ; garnished with grated horseradish and pimiento strips. — & la Suedoise. — Small boat shapes of savoury choux paste, baked and filled with caviare, masked with pink chaudfroid sauce, and garnished with gherkins, fillets, and lobster spawn or coral. — au pois verts, Clanet. — Boat shaped thin tartlet paste crust, baked and filled with green pea pur^e, mixed with mayonnaise aspic, a little chutnej' in centre of each ; surface garnished with sliced radishes, and masked with aspic. Batons de Caviar, Russe.^Thin water biscuits, oblong, or triscuits cut to finger shape, spread with caviare, iced, and coated with whipped cream, and decorated with green herb butter. BtBUf fum6 k la Hambourgeoise. — Smoked beef, Hamburg style. — ^ hachie k, 1' Aspic. — Finely shredded- beef with savoury jelly. Bonnes-Bouches k la Cardinal. — Lobster and anchovy bonnes-bouches. — de Caviar Russe. — Small, artichoke bottoms, sur- mounted by a ring of cooked sole fillet, and filled with artichoke caviare ; served iced. — de Crevettes k I'Avondale. — Bouche-shaped cups of pastry, filled with shrimps or prawn tails ; garnished with tomato aspic. — de Foie-gras. — Goose-liver patties. — de Sardines. — Fancifully cut shapes of brown bread filled with, sardine paste ; decorated with hard-boiled egg and savoury butter. 62 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Bonnes-Bouches de Sardines i la Royale. — Sardine patties, royal style. Brisolettes de Caviar. — Very small stuffing rolls, cut in halves and filled with caviare, surface masked with aspic, and garnished with anchovy fillets, parsley, etc. — 4 la Moscovite. — Caviare dressed in paste crusts, Moscow style. * Canap6s Alberta. — Oval or finger-shaped crofites spread with anchovy paste, lined with lax,- decorated with chopped beetroot, green herb butter, anchovy butter, and aspic. — ^ I'Arlequln. — Oblong or crescent shapes of toasted and buttered bread, with strips of tongue, smoked salmon, gherkins, and truffles, arranged in harlequin style. — & la Coquelin. — Croutons of fried bread, spread over with a paste composed of cooked ham, chicken, butter, and grated cheese ; garnished with gherkins, beetroot, and capers. — & la Dlaua. — Layers of chopped ham, truffles, and hard- Ijoiled egg-yolks placed alternately on croiitons of bread ; decorated with chopped aspic. — 4 la Darvelle. — Oval-shaped pieces of toasted or fried bread, spread with anchovy paste, and finished with layers of ham and caviare ; decorated with hard- boiled eggs and aspic. — de Pole-gras i la Russe. — Rounds of toasted bread spread with foie-gras puree, a dice of hard-boiled egg placed on top ; garnished with anchovy fillets and caviare. — Frivolltis Bohemlenne. — This name is applied to any variety of light and daintily dressed hors d'oeuvres, mostly of fancy character. — & la Geneve. — Oblong croutons of fried bread, spread with a paste composed of anchovy, sardine, and nam ; garnished with hard-boiled egg-yolk and white, and parsley. — de Harengs i, la Russe. — Fingers of fried bread spread with anchovy butter mixed witii herring roes ; fillets of kippered herrings are placed on each ; garnished with gherkins. — de Homard & la Reine. — Lobster canapees, queen style. — ' de Sardines d la FranQalse. — Small fried bread croutons masked with sardine paste or butter, layers of sardines, chopped parsley, and coated with remoulade sauce. * Canapfe. — This word is applied to boih Hors-d'ceuvre aud Savouries, which are made of toasted or fried bread, previously cut into suitable sizes and shape slices. HORS-D'(EUVRE~APPETISERS. 63 Canapfis de Saumon tumS.— Smoked salmon on toast. — d la Selon. — Buttered water biscuits covered with slices of hard-boiled egg dipped in lemon juice and chopped parsley, caviare in centre, and garnished with prawns. — ^ la Turque. — Finger-shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with savoury ham mixture, decorated with three distinct coloured butters, anchovy, herb, and yolk of egg. — !l la Turbigo. — Halves of very small bread rolls (stuffing rolls), filled with crayfish tails, celery, truffle, and egg white ; dressed with tomato and r6moulade sauce. — d la Windsor. — Puree of cooked chicken fillets, ham, tongue, butter, Cheshire cheese, mustard, and cayenne, spread on canapees of fried bread ; garnished with gherkins and hard-boiled egg whites. Carolines. — Name applied to small finger shapes or ball shapes of unsweetened choux paste baked, centre scooped out and filled with cold savoury fish, foie- gras or other dainty puree ; usually masked with chaudfroid sauce. Cassolettes de Betterave. — -Small cases made of cooked beetroot, pickled, and filled with a salpicon of egg, anchovies, capers, gherkins, etc. — d, I'Epicurienne. — Little pastry cases filled with seasoned lax, tongue, olives, and gherkins, all cut into fine shreds. Caviar & TAllemande. — Small cooked kidney potatoes, filled with caviare, with curled anchovy fillet on top, and covered with chopped hard-boiled egg. — en Belle-vue. — Halves of lemon prettily edged, centre filled with caviare ; dressed on bread socle in pyramidal form ; garnished with parsley. — de Biliiga, glac6.— Shallow ice cup shape of plain water ice and watercresses to form dish, which is filled with fresh iced Biluga or best Russian caviare ; - served with lemon, and thinly cut toast or wafer biscuits. — aux BUnlS.^This is a special Russian dish, the caviare being served on a glass dish set in a block of ice ; garnished with quarters of lemon and parsley. Blinis is served at the same time. It is a kind of light yeast batter; without sugar, made into small thin pancakes, and sent to table hot with a boat of sour cream. — sur Canapfi d la Rimoulade. — Caviare canapees, remoulade style. — d la Capuclne. — Small oval or boat-shaped bread crusts, filled with caviare and chopped prawns, seasoned with mayonnaise ; garnished with hard- boiled egg and cress. 64 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Caviar i, la Duchesse. — Small unsweetened choux paste shapes baked, and filled with caviare, seasoned with mayonnaise, or plain and iced ; coated with aspic jelly. — aux Ecrevisses. — Small fried bread cups, filled with caviare and prawns ; garnished with olives and gherkins. — en Mayonnaise. — Fresh Russian caviare, pounded, with breadcrumbs, soaked in cream, and seasoned with mayonnaise. — en Salade.— A neatly dressed salad of caviare, and small dice of tomato and hard-boiled egg. Ciian4relles on Salade. — Chahtrelles are a species of mush- room grown in Switzerland. When cooked they are dressed with plain salad dressing, seasoning and served as hors-d'ceuvre. Concombres a la Danoise. — Cassolette shapes of cucumber pickled, and filled with a salpicon of smoked salmon, hard-boiled egg, with salad anchovy, seasoned with mayonnaise. Crabe garnie. — Dressed crab. The meat of crab, seasoned with salad or cream dressing, refilled into the shell, and garnished neatly. Crofites d 'Ecrevisses h la Tartare. — Croutes of crayfish or prawn tails, dressed with tartare sauce. CroQtons ^ I'EspagnoIe. — Large Spanish olives, stuffed v/itli tartare sauce, placed on round croutons, with anchovy fillets twisted round olives ; decorated with lobster coral, egg-j'olk, and parsley. Darloles de Caviar. — Caviare darioles, dressed in small tartlet pastry crust, seasoned. — de Fole-gras. — Goose liver darioles. — de Hoinr.rd i la Tomate. — Lobster darioles with tomatoes. — d'Huitres t la Carlton. — Oj'ster darioles, Carlton style. — de Tomate 4 la Creme. — Tomato darioles with cream. D611catesse Husse. — Name given to a collection of selected small hors-d'oeuvre dishes of the Russian type. Denises d la Turque. — Dainty little sandwiches filled with prawns, tomato puree, hard-boiled egg, and anchovy, and decorated with paprika butter. — d la Princesse. —Dainty little sandwiches filled with chicken puree, walnuts, and cream mixture ; garnished with small cress. Duehosse d la Russe. — Small ball shapes of baked uu- sv/eetened choux paste, filled with a delicate chicken puree, sauced, with mayonnaise, and coated with chaudfroid sauce. HORS-D'CEUVRE— APPETISERS. 65 Eclairs Karoly. — Baked choux paste eclairs (unsweetened), filled with savoury game pur6e, and coated with brown chaudfroid sauce. Escargots aux flnes herbes. — Snails, with fine herb butter. Frivolitis Boh^mienne. — This name is applied to any five or more varieties of cold hors-d'oeuvre dishes, without any specific rule. Homard i, la CarSnie. — Lobster dressed Careme style. Hors-d'(Euvre Su^doise. — Cold roast veal or chicken, herring fillets (smoked), cold potatoes, and beetroot, all cut up into small fillets or dice, seasoned with French dressing and decorated with chopped hard- boiled egg, etc. Jambon sur Canapes. — Ham on fried bread croutons. Laltance de CablUaud fum£ sur Canapes. — Smoked or pickled tunny 'fish on toast. Langue de Bosuf sur Canapes. — Ox-tongue, finely shredded or in purfee form, on toasted or fried bread slices. Lax fum6 aux Concombres. — Salad made of thin slices of smoked salmon and thin slices of cucumber, neatly dressed on small glass dishes. Nids a la Chartres.^Little nest-shaped bread croutes filled with foie-gras puree, decorated with truffle and hard-boiled white and yolk of egg. (Eufs farcis h la Russe. — Stuffed eggs, Russian style. — il la Su^doise. — Small-hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, filled with green herb butter and egg-yolk ; prettily decorated and served on glass dishes. Olives. — Both French and Spanish olives are used as hors-d'ceuvre, but for dressed hors-d'ceuvre the latter are best suited on account of their size. — ^ I'Alsacienne. — Large Spanish olives stuffed with foie-gras and ham puree ; dressed on croutons. — & rAnchoiS. — Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy crea.m, and curled round with anchovy fillets, dished on bed of small salad. — ik la Madias. — Spanish olives stuffed with anchovy and chutney puree, dressed on croutons. — it la Reine. — Large Spanish olives, farced with a puree of anchovy, gherkins, and hard-boiled egg ; dressed on croutons. — 4 la Tartare. — Stoned Spanish olives filled with tartare sauce, stiffened with aspic, and glazed with savoury jelly. Palmiers d'Ecrevisses. — Small oval-shaped paste crusts filled with picked shrimps "and mayonnaise dressing (cream), finished with chopped parsley and lobster coral. 66 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY pate d'Ecrevisses sur Canapes. — Potted crayfish spread on small fingers of toasted bread. Petites Bouch^es 2I la Caroline. — Very small rice cassolettes, filled with chopped hard-boiled white of egg and truffles, seasoned with mayonnaise. — de Jambon i, la Crime. — Small puff-paste patties filled with minced ham and cream. Petites Caisses i la Casanova. — Small china or paper ramakin cases, filled with celery and truffle shreds, seasoned with tartare sauce, an oyster, slice of egg on top, and decorated with green herb butter. Polreaux i, la Russe. — The inner part (heart) of leek cut into cube shapes, blanched, and marinaded, farced with caviare, seasoned with mayonnaise and grated horseradish. Rosettes aux Anchols. — Small heart-shaped slices of fried bread spread with anchovy butter and garnished with anchovy fillets, with small mushroom head in centre, arranged in Rosette form, and decorated with green herb butter and chopped hard-boiled egg. — de Caviar. — Small heart-shaped slices of brown bread toasted, spread with caviare, decorated with lobster butter, and dished up in rosette form. Roulettes k la Creole. — Thinly cut slices of brown bread, spread with game or chicken pur6e, mixed with pounded capers and anchovy paste rolled up, buttered, and sprinkled alternately with chopped parsley and lobster coral. Salades as Hors-d'ceuvre. — Cucumber, celery, celeriac, melon, beetroot, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, cauli- flower (cooked), artichokes (raw and cooked), cold potatoes, French beans, etc., cut up small in shreds or dice, dressed with mayonnaise or oil and vinegar, are served as hors-d'oeuvre. These salads, however, must not be confused with salads served with roasts. Salade Bagration. — Finely shredded lettuce hearts, tunny fish, and lobster cut in dice, also pickled beetroot, seasoned with mayonnaise and garnished with stoned olives and anchovy fillets. — Russe. — Russian vegetable salad made of cooked vegetables, set in aspic, with caviare in centre. — Suidoise. — Cooked lean veal, fillets of salt herrings or kippers ; cooked potatoes and beetroot, all cut in dice ; seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper ; garnished with haid-boUed egg-yolks. Sardines sur Canapes. — Sardine canap6es (boned and skinned, and dressed on fried or toasted bread). Souvenirs, Viennolse. — Small chicken quenelles, poached and set in aspic, with vegetable mac6doine garnish. HORS-D'(EUVWE— APPETISERS. 67 Tartelettes de Saumoa, Ecossaise.— Little tartlet crusts of pastry filled with shreds .of cooked salmon and mayonnaise aspic ; garnished with slices of hard-boiled egg and truffle. Tartines ^ la Baroda. — Very small sandwiches, lined with chicken and rice puree, flavoured with curry ; masked with white chaudfroid sauce, and decorated with set aspic. — i la Cardinal.-^Faijcifully cut sandwiches made of brown bread and savoury lobster puree ; decorated with truffle, hard-boiled egg, gherkin, and parsley. — • de Caviar en chaudfroid. — Round fried bread croutons, slit open and filled with caviare, coated alternately with brown and white chaudfroid sauces, dressed round a, small salad. — LueuUus.— Finger-shaped puff pastry, seasoned with cheese, and layer of anchovy paste In centre ; gar- nished with olives and anchovy butter. Thon marine sur Canapes. — Pickled tunny fish on toast. Tomates Monigasque. — Small ripe tomatoes marinaded and filled with chopped tunny fish, hard-boiled egg, and fine herbs, seasoned with mayonnaise or French dressing. — en quartiers. — Peeled tomatoes, hollowed out in centre and filled -with fish farce or vegetable macedoine, seasoned with mayonnaise, aspic, iced and cut in quarters before dishing up. Tranches de Caviar, Remoulade. — Layers of bread covered with caviare, decorated with savoury butter, and cut into neat slices. Zakousky. — This is the name given for hors-d'oeuvre dishes in Russia. They consist of various kinds of daintily dressed caviare, pickled or smoked fish, etc. Certain Russian liqueurs are usually served with Zakousky, which form a great feature in the Russian cuisine. Note. — A large number of these dishes are suited alike as after-dinner savouries as well for hors-d'oeuvre, especially those made from shell fish, smoked fish, eggs, meat, and certain savoury vegetable mixtures. For typical after-dinner savouries please refer to Part XIII. at end of book. 68 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMV. PART III, POTAQES— SOUPS. Next to hors-d'ceuvre, Soup forms the best introduction to a meal ; it is, as far as the dinner is concerned, an indispensable course, and therefore important. Soups arc divided into four groups : Broths, Consommes, clear soups with garnish ; purees of meat, poultry or game ; bisques and fish soups ; and creams, or filtered soups made from vegetables and farinaceous products. Sometimes the choice of two or three varieties of soups are given at one meal, in which case the clear soup, or consomme, must be placed on the menu before the thick soups. Tlie present fashion is in favour of one soup only, either clear or thick. For a full-course dinner, or one of many courses, a clear or light thick soup, cream or bisque, gives more satisfaction than a heavy soup, because it conduces better to the appreciation of the succeeding dishes. Heavy or thick soups are generally considered more seasonable in winter than in summer. There are certain more or less flexible rules observed in serving consomme : cheese straws, or grisini, fingers, toasted bread and grated parmesan cheese are generally handed round with it. Sherry is served with turtle soup ; fried bread croutons with purees ; and celery salt with vegetable and cream soups. With mulligatawny, both thick and clear, a small dish of plain boiled rice is handed round, unless included in the soup as garnish. BOUILLONS— BROTHS. (Unclarlfled Soups.) Bouillon Alsacienne. — Beef and ham broth, garnished with dice shapes of potatoes, julienne of leeks and cabbage, and sippets of bread. ^ Ancienne. — Beef broth with small pieces of beef and vegetables as garnish, small croutons of bread served with cheese (gratine). — de Boeuf. — Beef broth (not clarified). — Bonne Femme. — Beef broth with usual garnish and dice shapes of cooked potatoes. POTAGES—SOUPS.^ 69 Bouillon Bouillabaisse. — Fish broths with slight saffron flavour, garnished with mussels, crayfisli or lobster, and other fish. — Ecossalse. — Mutton broth with small pieces of lean mutton and vegetables, and pearl barley as garnish. — Henri IV. — Beef and chicken broth, garnished with pieces of fowl, cooked rice and soup vegetables. — Hotchepot. — Beef broth, garnished with small pieces of ox-tail and ox-palate cooked in the broth, and the usual garnish of vegetables. — Marmite or Petite Marmite is a simply-made, but rich, broth of beef and fowl or mutton cooked in an earthenware pot (marmite), and as a rule served in large or small (portion size) fire-proof earthenware soup pots. — de Mouton. — Mutton broth. — aux CEufs. — Beef broth with beaten egg, usually served in cups. — Parisienne. — Beef broth, enriched with chicken boiled in it, garnished with usual soup vegetables — cab- bage, etc. , and pieces of beef ; baked bread crusts handed separately. — en tasses. — Beef broth, served in cups. — de Veau. — Veal broth. — de Volaille. — Chicken broth. — de Volaille & I'Orge. — Chicken broth thickened with pearl barley. CONSOMMES— CLEAR SOUPS. Consommi tt I'Atricalne. — A rich clear chicken soup, flavoured with curry and garnished with rice and small shreds of artichoke bottom. — Agnelotti. — Clear soup with small Italian raviolis filled with lamb farce, and poached. — Ajoblanco. — Clear soup, slightly flavoured with garlic, garnished with finely shredded sweet almonds. — Albion (Maigre). — Fish consomme, a clarified fish stock, thickened with tapioca, garnished with shreds of lobster and truffle.' — Alexandra. — Chicken consomme, thickened with tapioca, garnished with small chicken quenelles, finely shredded lettuce, and chicken fillets. — Ambassadrlce. — Chicken consomme, garnished with three different kinds of royal custard cut into round cubes — i.e., tomato, truffle, and greeii pea purees, also shreds of mushrooms and chicken fillets. 70 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Consommi A I'Anclenne. — Chicken consomme, garnished with small chicken quenelles and fried bread croutons coated with cheese. — Andalouse. — Clarified chicken stock with tapioca (I quart to | oz. tapioca). Garnitures : small rounds of tomato, cucumber cubes, and small chicken forcemeat quenelles. — Aurora. — Clear soup, flavoured and coloured with tomato, thickened with tapioca, and garnished with finely cut chicken fillets. — Bairgneuse. — Clear soup with small forced lettuce balls. — Bagration (Maigre). — A richly flavoured clear soup, garnished 'with small fish quenelles, vegetable, and prawns. — Bavi6re (Bavarian). — A clear soup with very small semolina dumplings. — Belle-Fermldre. — Rich clarified chicken stock, garnished with lozenge shapes of cabbage, French beans, and nouillo paste (poached). — Benjamin Lepols. — Kich chicken consommfe, garnished with green peas, small cubes of truffle, and royal custard containing chicken puree. — Bohimlenne. — Clear soup with cubes of royal custard and foie-gras, also small profiteroUes. — Bouqnetldre. — Clear soup, garnished with spring vege- tables daintily cut. — Bourbon. — Chicken consomme, garnished with chicken farce quenelles, fleur-de-lys shaped slices of truffle, and pearl barley. — Bretonne. — Clear soup with finely shredded leek, celery, and mushrooms, also chopped chervil. — Brisse. — Clear soup with a garnish of three varieties of vegetable purle, custard, or plain boiled rice. — Brunolse (Brunoise Soup). — A clear gravy soup with finely minced carrots, turnips, leeks, and onions. — Brunoise au Riz. — The same as above, witli the addi- tion of some plainly boiled rice. — Cabure. — Clear soup with small round slices of cabbage and lettuce, also rounds of toasted bread coated with cheese. — Capucine. — Clear soup with finely shredded spinach and small profiteroUes filled with chicken pur^e. — Cardinal. — Consommfe, flavoured with tomato, gar- nished with small lobster quenelles. — CarSme. — Chicken and veal stock, clarified, and gar- nished with slices of cooked carrot, lettuce, turnip, leek, asparagus points, and thin rounds of bread crusts. POT AGES— SOUPS. n Consommfi 4 la Carmen.— Clear soup, flavoured and coloured with tomatoes, garnished with fine strips of pimiento, chervil, and plain rice. — Caroline. — Straw-coloured rich consomm6, garnished with Carolina rice, royal custard, and chicken fillets, both cut very small. — Cil^stine (Celestine Soup). — A clear §ravy soup with thin pancakes cut into julienne strips. — Cbaneellidre. — Chicken consomme, garnished with rings of royal custard, flageolets, and fine strips of truffles, champignons, and beetroot. — ChantUly. — Rich consomme, garnished with strips of hard white of egg, chicken fillets, and rice. — Chasseur. — ^A clear, game-flavoured soup, garnished with small game quenelles. — CbSteleine. — Clear soup with slight tarragon flavour, garnished with royal custard, mixed with artichoke puree, green peas, and French beans. — Chiflonnade (Chifionade Gravy Soup). — A clear soup, garnished with finely shredded spring onion heads, green peas, and lettuce leaves stamped out round, seasoned with green mint and tarragon leaves. — Chpron 4 la Richelieu. — Clarified game stock, garnished with julienne strips of cooked game, pea shapes of young carrots, and Brazil tapioca. — Choux (arcis, aux. — Clear soup garnished with stuffed Brussels sprouts. — Christlania. — Chicken consomme, garnished with pro- fiteroUes, filled with chestnut purfee. — Cbristophe Colombe. — Clear chicken broth with two coloured diamond or ring shapes of poached royal custard. — Clair. — Clear soup (plain, without any kind of garniture). — Claremont. — Clear soup with royal custard and fried onion rings as garnish. — Clodilde. — Clear soup with very small button onions fried in butter and cooked in stock. — Coek-a-Leekie (Cock-a-Leekie Soup). — Clear chicken broth, with leeks cut into julienne strips, pearl barley, and small dice of cooked chicken. Prunes are some- times added as a garnish. — Colbert. — A clear soup with small poached eggs and green peas. — Colombine. — Chicken consomme, garnished with jar- diniere of carrots, turnips, and green peas, also fine trips of pigeon iiUets, and poached pigeon eggs. — Comtesse. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce, chicken quenelles, chervil leaves, and royal custard shapes. 72 PRACTICAL CASTRONOM Consomm^ A, la Cond4.— A clear game soup, garnished with quenelles of haricot bean puree and julienne strips of partridge fillets. — Crtcy. — Clear soup with very fine strips of red carrot and pink royal custard. — CroQte au Pot. — A clear beef soup, garnished with stock-pot vegetables and very thinly cut pieces of toasted bread. — Cussy.— Clarified game, thickened with small game farce quenelles, chestnut, and strips of truffles. — Cyrano. — Clear soup, flavoured with duck (fumet), gar- nished with small duck farce quenelles. — Dame-blanche. — Rich consomme, garnished with fine shreds of chicken fillets, white of egg, and chervil leaves. — Dant6. — Clarified beef stock in which two or three roast pigeons have been cooked. Garniture : small darioles of chicken farce in two colours, i.e., white and yellow, the latter coloured with saffron, also truffles and ox-tongue. — Daumont. — Clarified beef stock with fine tapioca, and a garnish of champignons and cooked ox-palate cut into julienne strips. — Dauphlne. — Clear soup with vegetable macedoine, small cubes of royal custard, and profiteroUes. — Demidoff. — Clear soup, thickened with tapioca, gar- nished with small chicken quenelles, strips of truffles and carrots. — DisUgnac. — A clear soup with dice of royal custard. The eggs for this are mixed with milk and stock, finely chopped parsley, celery, and truffles before poaching. — Diablotin. — Clarified beef stock with tiny baked bread crusts, seasoned with cheese and cayenne. — Diane. — Game-flavoured consomme, enriched with XerJs wine, with small game quenelles. — Dietrich. — Clarified veal stock with garniture of nouilles, carrots, turnips, and French beans, cut in fine shreds. — Diploraate. — A rich clear soup with poached egg-yolks and small olive shapes of cucumber and turnip, also very small button onions. — Dorla. — Clear soup, garnished with pea-shaped cucum- ber and profiteroUes. — du Barry. — Clear chicken and veal stock, with cubes of royal custard and finely shredded Jordan almonds. — Dubelloy. — Clear chicken broth with royal custard, green peas, and rice as garnish. Missing Page 74 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Consommi d la Grisonne. — Clear soup, garnished with batter passed through a coarse colander into the soup when boiling. , — Henri IV. — Chicken consomm6 or broth with suitably cut soup vegetable and small chicken fillets, rice, and chervil leaves. — • Hombourg.— Clear soup with small calf's liver quen- elles, round slices of beef marrow with pronounced paprika flavour. — Hongroise. — Clear chicken soup with tomato flavour, strips of tomatoes tossed in butter, and paprika seasoning. — Imp^rlale. — Clear chicken soup, garnished with whole poached yolks of eggs and shreds of ham and truffles. — Indlenne. — Clear mulligatawny soup, served with cooked rice. — Intante. — Chicken consomme, garnished with small bread croutons coated with liver pur6e or farce. — Irma. — Rich clear soup with small chicken quenelles each filled with green peas prior to poaching. — Italienne (Italian). — Clear soup with small pieces of macaroni, cubes of spinach, and tomato custard (royal). — Jardlnldre. — Clear soup, garnished with carrots, turnips, and celery scooped out in olive shapes. — JolnvUIe. — Chicken consomme with pea shapes of carrot, royal custard, two kinds, one mixed with chicken pur6e, and one with green pea purfee. — Jubil^. — Chicken consomm6 with julienne strips of celery, truffle, and tomato. — Judlc. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce, chive, and chervil. — Julienne. — Clear soup with carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, cabbage, and lettuces, cut into very thin strips, called julienne, about an inch long. — Juliette. — Clarified chicken stock, with a garnish con- sisting of very small cream quenelles, green pea puree a la Royal cut in cubes, tiny rounds of truffle, and lozenge shapes of hard-boiled white of egg. — Kapriva (Russian). — Consomme with small fried eggs, sorrel, and slices of smoked sausage, served with sour cream. — Kiselefl (Russian). — Chicken consomme with julienne strips of celeriac and leek, strips of ham, and chicken fillet. — Kolodnlk (Polish). — Iced chicken consomm6, garnished with hard white of egg and cucumber cut in fine strips, also crayfish tails. Consomm§ &Ia Lafltte.^-Chicken consomme flavoured with sherry or marsala, garnished with financiere. — Laltues. — Clear soup with finely shredded lettuce (tossed in butter). — Leopold. — Clear soup with semolina, shredded lettuce, ■ and sorrel. — Lllienne. — Clear soup, flavoured with tarragon and chervil, and garnished with a julienne of slightly baked almonds, truffles, and mushrooms. — Lorette. — Clear soup with finely cut strips of celeriac, potato, pimiento, and truffle. — Macaroni. — Clear soup, garnished with cooked macaroni cut into short pieces. — Madrid. — Tomato-flavoured clear soup, garnished with thin slices of skinned and cooked tomatoes. — Magenta. — Rich clear soup, flavoured and coloured with ripe tomatoes, and mac^doine of vegetables as garnish. -^ Maigre. — -Clear fish soup (Lenten soup) made with fish stock and vegetables. — Maintenon. — Clear soup with strips of tomato and leeks, served with small toasted cheese croAtons. — Maneelle. — Clarified beef and veal stock, garnished with dice shapes of roasted chestnuts and julienne strips of cooked game or poultry. — Merc6dds.— Rich clear soup with star shapes of cocks' combs and cucumber, flavoured with Xirte wine. — Messallne. — Clarified chicken broth with tomato essence, garnished with cock's kernels, Carolina rice, and Spanish pimientos cut in julienne. — Metternlch. — Clarified beef stock, flavoured with chicken, garnished with cooked tomatoes cut into dice, and chicken fillets. — MIgnon (Maigre). — -Fish consomme with crayfish tails, strips of trufiBe and fish quenelles. — Mikado. — A curry-flavoured clear chicken soup, garn- ished with finely-shredded chicken fillets and cooked rice. — Milanaise.-^-Clear soup, garnished with cooked rice, dice of ox-tongue, and shreds of ripe tomatoes. — Mlrianne. — Clarified chicken stock with the following garnish : plainly cooked rice tossed in lobster butter, to which is added oysters cut in dice, chopped trufiies and pistachios, the whole moistened with white • sauce and cheese as for salpicon ; filled in very small shell-shaped thin paste crusts, which are handed round with the consomme. — Mock Turtle. — Clear soup with strips of calf's head (turtle flavour). 76 PRACTICAL GASTRONOM ConsommS i la Moelle de Boeuf (Beef Marrow).— Cleax soup with small marrow-fat quenelles. — Monaco. — Clear soup with stuffed fried bread quen- elles. — Monte Carlo. — Clear soup with small chicken quenelles and profiterolles, shredded lettuce, and chervil. — Monte Christo. — Chicken consomme with brunoise of- vegetables and profiteroUes. — Nansen. — Iced consomme, served with small caviare croutons. — Nantaise. — Clear soup with pearl barley, garnished with chicken fillets and green peas. — Napoleon. — Clarified chicken stock, garnished with small foie-gras Talmouse (triangular-shaped nouille paste stuffed with foie-gras puree), and poached in stock. — Napolitaine. — A game-flavoured clear soup with macaroni, shreds of celery and ham as garnish. — Nationale. — Beef consomme with croute au pot gar- nish. — Nelson. — ^Turtle-flavoured clear soup with tliree varieties of chicken quenelles (red, white, and green). — Nimours. — Clear soup, garnished with diamond shapes of custard made with carrot puree, bechamel sauce, and egg-yolks. — Nesselrode. — Clear soup with small chestnut quenelles. — NifOise. — Chicken consomme, garnished with tomato strips, dice of potatoes, and flageolets. — Nids d'Hirondelles. — Clear soup, garnished with Chinese bird's nest (salenganes), previously poached. — Normande., — Clarified chicken stock, garnished with green peas and soup vegetables. — NoulUes. — A clear soup with nouilles (a kind of macaroni paste, only flat instead of round). — Nouveau Rigne. — Rich chicken consomme, witii a special kind of chicken quenelle, made by having cubes of richly flavoured aspic and gold- leaf intro- duced prior to being cooked, these quenelles being put into the soup just at the moment of serving. — (Eufs fll6s. — Clear soup with beaten egg run through a colander whilst the soup is boiling. — Olga. — Clarified chicken broth with julienne strips of chicken breast, ox-tongue, and truffles, also green peas — OUa-Podrida (Spanish). — Clear soup or broth made from various kinds of meat — ox-tail, pig's-tail, and mutton breasts, garnished with sausage, ham, and vegetable, all cut in slices. -■^^■^'~^simj!r-jsn^ Missing Page 78 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY Consomm§ a la PrinlanWre (Spring Soup);— A clear gravy soup, garnished with finely-cut spring vegetables. — Prlntanldre aux Quenelles.— Clear soup with poached chicken forcemeat quenelles and macedoine of spring vegetables. — Proflterolles.— Clear soup with very small cheese paste fritter. — Pyr^nalse.- Clarified mutton stock with brunoise vegetables, tomato strips, and nouilles or Italian paste as garnish. — Quenelles {rites.- Clear soup, garnished with very small choux paste quenelles, fried. — Quenelles de VolaUle (Chicken Quenelle Gravy Soup).— A clear soup with small, chicken forcemeat dumplings. — Queues de Boeuf. — Clear ox-tail soup. — Rabelais. — Game-flavoured consomme, garnished with small game quenelles and julienne strips of truffle and celery. — Rachel. — A richly flavoured clear soup with small chicken quenelles, dice of tongue, and truffles. — Ramboule. — Clear chicken soup, garnished with stamped-out rounds of poached chicken quenelle meat and young green peas. — Raphael. — Chicken consomme with very small dice shapes of celeriac (tossed in butter). — • Ravioli. — A clear soup made with chicken and veal stock, with little round nouille paste shapes stuffed with forcemeat (poached). — R§jane. — Chicken consomme, flavoured with chervil, garnished with dice of carrot and egg strips (oeufs fil6s). — Renaissance. — Clear soup with sliced white mushrooms, green peas, rice, and small cheese croutons (separate). — Riche. — Chicken consommfe with small chicken quen- elles forced with truffle. — Richelieu (Carfime maigre). — Fish consomm6 (tomato- flavoured), garnished with small lobster quenelles. — Rlz. — Clear soup, garnished with plain boiled rice. — des Rois. — A rich chicken stock, clarified, garnished with julienne strips of quail fillets, truffles, and asparagus points. Parmesan croutons handed sepa- rately. — Rossini. — Consomm^ double, garnished with very large macaroni, boiled, drained, and forced with joie-gras cream, poached and cut into small, short pieces. — Rothschild. — Game consommS, garnished with finely cut pheasant fillets, chestnuts, and strips of truffles, ConsommS a la Royale. — Clear soup with poached egg custard, called royal, cut into cube, dice, round, diamond, or other fancy shapes. — Russe (Russian). — Clear soup with finely-cut slices of carrots, beetroot, celery, and leeks, flavoured with beetroot juice. — Sagou (Sago Soup). — Clear soup with sago. — Salvator. — Clear soup with dice shaped ripe tomatoes and chervil leaves. — Santos-Dumont. — Consomme of chicken lie with Brazilian tapioca, garnished with carrots cut in small olive shapes, French beans cut in julienne shapes, and turnips scooped out in pea shapes. — Sarah Bernhardt. — Rich chicken consomme, garnished with small chicken quenelles, crayfish tails, fine tapioca, and tiny bits of blanched beef marrow. — Saxonne. — Clear soup with tapioca, small pink chicken quenelles, dice of beef marrow, and green peas. — Semoule. — Clear soup with finely-grained semolina cooked in the consomme. — S£vlgn6, — A clear soup with small chicken quenelles. — Solterino. — Clear soup with carrots, turnips, and potatoes, cut out with a small round vegetable scoop, termed, in French d la cuillere. — Souveraine. — Chicken consomme, garnished with dice- shaped vegetables and small chicken quenelles. — St. Georges. — Clear / soup made from hare stock, flavoured with claret, garnished with hare quenelles, champignons, and truffles. — St. Saens. — Chicken consomme, garnished with fine pearl barley and small dice of black-skinned potatoes, known as pommes de terre negresse. — Stschy (Russian). — Clear soup made from duck and beef, flavoured with beetroot juice, and garnished with small fried button onions. — Talma. — A rich clear soup, garnished with almond- flavoured custard cut into cubes or diamonds, and rice. — Tapioca (Tapioca Soup). — A clear soup with tapioca. — Tchy de Soldat (Russian). — A clear soup made with duck and veal stock, garnished with vegetables cut into small strips, and dice shapes of duck fillets. — Tlvoli. — Clear soup with coarse-grained semolina and small ravioles. — Tortue. — Clear real turtle soup. — Tortue Fausse. — Clear mock turtle soup. — Tosca. — Clear soup, garnished with fried profiteroUes, pea-shaped carrots, and truffle. 8o PRACTICAL GASTBONOl. Consomm£ h la Toscane. — Clear soup, garnished with sliced tomato, fried aubergine, and macaroni. — Vrianon. — Clear soup with dice shape of cucumber and chicken fillets, and strips of tomato and chervil. — Vatel. — Clear soup with small chicken quenelles (red), truffle filling, also finely cut tarragon and chervil. — Veneur. — A rich, clear soup, garnished with finely shredded lettuce hearts, celery, and truffles. — Vermicelles. — Clear soup with vermicelli. — Victor Emanuel. — Clear soup with short pieces of spaghetti (macaroni), strips of tomatoes, and royal custard ; served with grated cheese. — Victoria. — Chicken consomme, garnished with julienne, strips of truffle, chicken fillets, and royal custard. — Vlennolse. — Clear soup with profiteroUes stuffed with cheese, cream, and paprika. — Vltellus. — Clear chicken-flavoured soup, thickened with pearl barley, and garnished with lozenge strips of nouille paste. — Vivian. — Cold chicken consomme, garnished with small dice-shaped cooked cucumber, tomato, and lettuce leaves, also cubes of royal custard made with aspic and cream, and cut out when set. — Voiaiiie. — Clear chicken soup. — Volaille frapp4. — Iced clear chicken soup. — Windsor. — Turtle-flavoured clear soup, with finely cut strips of calf's foot and veal quenelles. — Xavier. — A vegetable-flavoured clear soup, with a kind of cheese-flavoured batter quenelles run through a colander into the soup. CREMES, PUREES— POTAGES LIES. (Creams, Purees, and other Thick Soups.) Bortsch Polonaise. — A rich beef soup of broth-like con- sistency, flavoured with duck essence, beetroot juice, and sour cream, dice of duck fillet as garnish. Bisque do Crevettes (Shrimp Soup, puik).— .4 cream-like puree of fish stock and shrimps or prawns. — Ecrevlsses (d') (pink).— Crayfish puree or cream soup. — Homard (de) & la Mariniere (Lobster Bisque). — Lobster ,cream soup with small fish quenelles as garnish. — Homard (de) i la Parlsienne. — Lobster cream soup. — aux Huttres (Oyster Pur6e). — A light, cream-like oyster soup, served with croutons. POTAGES— SOUPS. 8i Bisque Langoustes (de) (Crawfish, pink).— A cream-lilce puree of sea crawfisli or large lobsters. — P6toncles (dD). — Scallop cream or pur6e soup (white). CrSme h rAfrlcaine. — Cream of rice soup, flavoured with curry, with small dice shapes of artichoke bottoms and aubergine. — Ambassadrice. — Green pea cream, blended with sorrel and lettuce puree, chervil and green peas as garnish. — Andalouse (Maigre).— Cream of rice soup (fish or vegetable stock), with addition of very little tomato puree. — Artichauts ( d'). — Green artichoke soup (cream or puree). — Asperges (d') & la PrlntanlSre.— Asparagus cream, with jardiniere, vegetables as garnish. — Avolne (d'). — Oatmeal soup with cream (white). — Cambaoeres (Spanish). — A blend of lobster bisque, chicken puree, and pigeon puree — one third of each — finished with cream and garnished with crayfish tails. — C£l£ri (de). — Celery puree or cream soup. — Champ^noise. — Cream of potato soup, blended with puree of celery and leek, chopped chervil, and croutons. — Chatelaine. — Green pea and onion pur6e, blended together with cream and herbs. — Chlcor^e (de) au Velout£. — Puree of chicoree or endive, enriched with cream and egg-yolks. — Clementine. — Light chicken cream, with three-coloured royal stamped out in small cubes. — Concombre (de) & la Relne. — Cucumber cream with dice of royal custard. — Dame-Blanche. — White chicken pur6e with cream, flavoured with sweet almonds, garnished with barley and royal custard. — Orge (d'). — Pearl barley soup with cream (white). — Rlz (de). — Filtered rice cream soup (white). — • Valeneienne. — White cream of rice soup, with a liaison of sago cooked in consomme. — ^ Volaille (de) Chevalidre. — -Light white chicken cream, with truffles and tongue julienne as_garnish. — Volaille (de) aux Ecrevlsses (white). — Light chicken cream with crayfish tails as garnish. — Volaille (de) a la Fran(;aise (fawn). — A light brown chicken puree enriched with cream. Potage Albion. — rBrown giblet soup with pea-shaped cucumber and carrots as garnish. — des Ambassadeurs. — A light cream soup, made with chicken stock, rice and peas pur6e, and finely shredded sorrel, 82 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Potage Amiricalne (American). — Tomato soup, blended with a -little lobster puree (bisque), and thickened with rice or tapioca. , — Andalouse. — Light white soup (vear stock foundation) mixed with tomato puree, and nouilles as garniture. — Anguilles t rAllemande.' — German eel soup (white). — Ardenals. — Game (pheasant) pur6e, blended with red lentil puree and cream. — Argentenil (Asparagus). — Filtered rice and cream soup with asparagus points. — d'Asperges t la Princesse (Asparagus Soup, Princesse Style, white). — Asparagus puree, garnished with asparagus points and rice. — d'Asperges aux Quenelles. — Asparagus puree with small chicken quenelles. — Aubergine. — Egg plant or vegetable marrow soup (white). — • Bagration.— A light cream made of veal stock, gar- nished with small chicken quenelles. — Balmoral. — Pur6e of mutton, flavoured with turtle seasoning and finely cut calf's foot. — Bavlere (Bavarian). — Lentil puree with slices of smoked sausage. — Bicasses. — Woodcock or snipe pur6e soup (brown). — Bercy. — Puree of young turnips with cream liaison. — B16 vert aux ceuls. — Green corn soup with eggs and cream liaison. — Boeul (de). — A thick, brown soup made of beef. — Bonne Femme (Good Woman). — Sorrel cream soup with small chicken forcemeat quenelles. — BouiUe-i-Balsse. — A rich fish soup, with small fillets of fish, onions, and tomato strips as garnish. — Bourgeolse. — Chicken cream with addition of finely shredded turnips and celery. — Bretonne. — A puree of white haricot beans, blended with tomato pulp (fried t)read crofttons). — Cailles. — Quail soup (brown), pur^e or cream. — Canard i I'Anglalse (de).— A thick soup made from duck giblets (brown). — Capri. — A thick game soup, garnished with minced quail fillets and cocks' combs. — Carmen. — Light cream of rice soup, blended with tomato puree, with fine strips of pimiento, tomato, and rice. — Carottes. — Pur6e of carrots (pink). — Castelaine. — A thick brown soup made with beef. rr- C616rl i. I9 Crdme, — Pur6e of celery with cream, POTAGES— SOUPS. 83 PQtage Champignons (de).— Mushroom soup (light brown). — Chantilly. — Lentil pur^e with cream liaison, served with small croutons. — Chartreuse. — A white cauliflower pur^e with tapioca and cream. — ■ Chasseur (Hunters Soup, brown). — A game pur6e with minced mushrooms and small dice of cooked game. — Choux de Bruxelles (pale green). — Brussels sprouts soup. — Choux-FIeuTs. — Pur6e of cauliflowers with croutons. — Choux-FIeurs k la Creme. — Cauliflower soup enriched with cream. — Clamart. — Green pea pur6e with cream liaison, and fresh whole peas as garniture. — Compldgne. — White haricot bean puree with sorrel and chervil. — Comtesse. — Asparagus and pea puree and cream liaison, with green asparagus tops. — Pur§e de Concombre. — Cucumber soup. — Cond£ (red). — A thick soup made with fried croutons, haricot beans, and cream liaison. -^ Crficy. — Puree of young carrots (red part only) thick- ened with rice or barley. — Cressoni^re. — Potato pur6e and watercress pur6e, blended with cream and egg-yolks. — Cussy. — Game pur6e with small partridge quenelles, round of truffle, and game shreds. — ■ Czarine. — Game pur^e, blended with chestnut cream. — • Danolse. — Chicken purfee with pea shapes of spring vegetables. — Dartoise. — Puree of white haricot beans with finely cut vegetables (brunoise). — Dauphine. — Pea puree, blended with tomato pulp and fine strips of lean ham. — • Demldoff, — A light brown chicken puree, garnished with julienne strips of mushrooms, truffles, and carrots, also small braised button onions. — Diane.— Game (partridge) puree with small game quenelles and strips of truffles. — Dieppoise. — V/hite fish soup with mussels and cream liaison (fried croutons). — Doyen. — A blend of green pea purfee and chicken cream soup, with small chicken quenelles and green peas as garnish. — Dubarry. — Cream of cauliflower soup, with small cauliflower-buds as garnish. — Duchesse. — A light chicken cream, garnished with rice and savoury custard (royal). 84 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Potage Duchesse. — A light puree of fowl with minced chicken or game fillets, and truffles as garnish. — Dumonteuil. — A bisque of crawfish blended with tomato puree egg-yolk liaison and cream), garnished with small fish quenelles. — ■ Ecossalse (Hotch Potch). — National Scotch soup, con- sisting of mutton broth, finely-cut carrots, turnips," leeks, parsley, cauliflowers, and peas. — Egyptlenne. — Puree of lentils, with finely shredded ham and fried croutons. — Ena. — Chicken cream soup with cucumber strips, also sorrel and chervil (pluche), and croutons. — Eplnards. — Spinach pur^e, soup (green). — Espagnole (Spanish Soup). — A brown beef or mutton blended soup with onion puree. — Esturgeon. — Sturgeon soup (white). — Excelsior. — Asparagus pur6e with barley cream liaison, and whole Nizam pearl barley as garnish. — Falsan. — Pheasant soup (light brown). — Faisan t la Diana. — A light puree of pheasant, flavoured with claret and cream, garnished with small game quenelles. — Faisan. — Pur6e of pheasant, with sherry flavour and cream liaison. — Faubonne. — Puree of French lentils and haricot beans, enriched with cream, garnished with green peas and fried bread croutons. — Fausse Tortue (Mock Turtle Soup, thick). — A brown thick soup made from calf's head, flavoured with sherry or Marsala wine, garnished with small pieces of calf's head. — Favorite. — White chicken pur6e diluted with consomme with Brunoise — i.e., finely minced carrots, turnips, and leeks, as garnish. — Fermlire (Farmhouse Soup). — Potato soup with minced carrots and turnips. — Flamande (Flemish). — Pur^e of Brussels sprouts, celery, and potato, with cream liaison (croutons). — Florentine.— Spinach puree with cream liaison and croutons. — Fonds d'Artlchauts (de). — Artichoke bottom soup (white). — Freneuse. — Pur^e of young turnips with cream liaison. pea-shaped turnip and carrot as garnish. — Garbure. — White vegetable pur6e with small cheese coated croutons. — Gascogne. — Potato pur^e with grated parmesan cheese, cream and egg liaison, and small ravioles or profite- roUes. POTAGES— SOUPS. 8$ Pptage Gellnotte. — Grouse soup (brown). ^- Gentiihomme (Gentleman's Soup, brown). — Puree of rabbit, pork, and ham, garnished with mioced sausages and mushrooms. — Geiitilhomme. — Puree of game with sherry or marsala flavour, and croutons. — Georges Sand. — White fish cream soup with shredded lettuce and crayfish tails. — Georgette. — Tomato and carrot puree, blended together with pearl barley as garnish. — Gibiei (de). — ^Filtered game soup (brown). — Gibier ^ I'Anglaise. — English game giblet soup. — Gibier a la Cond6. — Venison soup with lentils. — Gounod. — A light green peas puree made with rich chicken stock, garnished with julienne of chicken fillets. — Grenouilies (de). — Filtered frog soup (white). — Gr^que (Greek). — Puree of peas and mutton broth (blended), garnished with julienne strips of vegetables. — Gulyas (Hungarian). — Puree of beef and green peas (onion flavour), potato dice, and paprika seasoning. — Haricot Blanc. — White haricot bean puree. — ■ Huitres (aux). — Oyster soup (white). • — Imperiale. — A white soup composed of cream of rice and tapioca, garnished with shreds of truffle. — Indlenne. — Mulligatawny soup, with addition of cocoanut milk and rice. — Iriandaise. — A kind of thick mutton broth. — Istrlenne. — Puree of chestnuts and tomatoes, flavoured with juice of pomegranates, and finished with a liaison of egg-yolks and cream (Austrian origin). — Italienne. — A light mutton or lamb puree, garnished with macaroni, slice of fowl, and macedoine. -^ Jackson. — Potato soup enriched with cream and egg liaison. — Japonnaise. — Puree of crosnes, with cream liaison and Japanese pearl barley. — Jeanette. — Puree of safsifits, enriched with cream and egg yolk liaison, garnished with rice and small chicken quenelles. — Judic. — Tomato puree with cream and mushroom essence, finely shredded mushrooms arid ham as garnish. • — Krupnick (Polish). — Cream of pearl barley with chicken puree, garnished with small dice vegetables and chicken fillets. — Laitues (de). — Lettuce soup (green), cream or puree. 86 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Potage Lapln^A roseille. — Rabbit puree, soup with sorrel. — Lavallidre. — Wliite chicken cream soup with celery and profiteroUes. — Lentilles. — ientil soup (cream or puree). — LentlUes h la Brunolse (Lentil Soup, Brunoise style). — Filtered lentil soup with finely cut vegetables. — LiSvre i, I'Anglalse. — English hare soup (brown). ^- Macaroni au Lalt. — Macaroni soup with milk (white). — MacMahon. — A curry-flavoured cream-like soup, gar- nished with pieces of calf's brain and cubes or slices of cooked cucumber. — Madeleine. — Rich consomm6 stock blended with haricot bean and tomato puree, with leek and carrot strips as garnish. — Malakoff (Russian). — Puree of potatoes, blended with spinach and tomato pulp. — Marichale. — Bread soup with cream and small lobster quenelles. — Marquise. — Chicken cream soup, with braised lettuce and peas as garnish. — Marie-Louise. — Pearl barley soup with cream and small chicken quenelles. — Marie-Stuart. — White chicken cream with foie-gras cubes, carrot, and green peas as garnish. — Marlgny. — Puree of green peas, blended with sorrel and lettuce (chiffonade) and chervil. — Marrons. — Puree of chestnuts. — Marrons i, la Chasseur (fawn). — Chestnut puree, enriched with cream and garnished with dice of cooked game. — Martha. — Chicken cream soup, blended with onion puree (soubise) and rice. — Mathild^e. — Cucumber puree, enriched with cream, and peas or olive shapes of cucumber as garnish. — Mauviettes St. Hubert. — This is a pale brown cream soup, made with veal stock, roux, and braised larks, garnished with fillets of larks cut into strips. — Midicis. — Sorrel puree, blended with green pea and carrot purees. — Mero6des.— Jerusalem artichoke puree, enriched with cream and egg-yolks, garnished with dice of artichoke bottoms and chicken fillets. — Monaco. — Bfechamel cream soup with egg yolk liaisofi, and sippets of toasted bread. — Montglas. — A thick soup made of capon, with minced truffles and mushrooms. — Montmorency. — Chicken cream soup with grated parmesan. braised lettuce, and vermicelli as garnish. fUTAGHH— SOUPS. 87 Potsge Montpensler.— Cream of rice soup, blended with .• cauliflower puree (fried croutons). — Morilles, — Puree of morilles (a species of mushroom), with cream and morilles cut in fine strips. — Mozart.— Puree of French beans blended with game puree and cream (croutons). — Mufle de Boeuf. — Ox-cheek puree soup (brown). — Mulligatawny. — Thick mulligatawny soup, curry flavour, and rice. — Murillo (Maigre). — Tomato puree, enriched with fish essence and cream, garnished with small fish quenelles. — Nelousko. — A white chicken cream soup with small veal or chicken quenelles. — N6mours. — Potato puree, blended with rich consomme and liaison of cream and egg-yolks (croutons). — Nemrod. — Puree of game with profiterolles forced with game puree. — Nimoise (Maigre). — White fish cream soup, blended with tomato puree. — Nissarde (Maigre). — Vegetable marrow or pumpkin soup, thickened with tapioca and cream liaison. — Nivernaise. — A puree of vegetables, potatoes, turnips, leeks, and sprouts, enriched with cream and garnished with jardinidre. — Normande (Maigre). — Puree of leeks, celery, and potatoes, garnished with celery shreds and chervil. — Oignons (aux). — Onion soup, white or brown. — Okra. — Puree of tomalio aiid gambos, cream liaison. — Orleans. — A chicken puree with tapioca as liaison. — Orleans Maigre. — A soup made with white bread and milk, finished with cream. — Osellle. — Puree of sorrel (light green). — Ostendaise. — White fish soup with oysters, cream liaison, and quarters of oysters as garnish. — Pain-bis ^ la Russe. — Russian brown bread soup with poached eggs. — Palestine. — Puree of Jerusalem artichokes with small bread croutons. — Parmentler (Parmentier Soup, cream). — A cream-like potato soup with croutons of fried bread. — Patti. — Artichoke puree with cream liaison, and rice as garnish. — Pauvre Hoinme (Poor Man). — A kind of brown meal soup, the flour being roasted with butter or dripping to a chestnut brown colour. " — Pavilion. — Purees of peas and stachys, blended with mixed vegetable (brunoise) as garnish. 88 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Potage Perdreaux. — Partridge soup with croutons. — Perdreaux h la Grand Due (brown).— Partridge puree, thickened with oatmeal, garnished with small mush- room quenelles. — Pieds de Veau. — Calf's feet soup (white). — Pierre le Grand. — White barley cream (veal stock foundation), with puree of pigeon and dice of pigeon fillets as garnish. — Pigeons Sauvages (brown). — Wild pigeon soup. — Pluche (pink).— Potato soup with finely minced carrots and herbs. — de Pluvlers (brown). — Plover soup. — Poireaux. — Puree of leeks with crofitons. — Poireaux k la Creme. — Leek soup enriched with cream. — Pur6e de Pois. — Filtered pea soup (made from dried peas), served with croutons. — Pols Vert. — Green pea soup. — Polonaise (Polish Soup, light brown). — A puree of beef and pork, with sauerkraut as garnish. — Pommes de Terre. — Potato soup (white) with croutons. — Pompadour. — Pur6e of lentils, thickened with tapioca and cream liaison, — Portugaise. — Purees of tomato and onion, flavoured with garlic, garnished with rice. — Potiron. — French pumpkin soup. — Prince de Galles (Prince of Wales Soup, brown). — A thick mock turtle with small veal quenelles. — Princesse. — Chicken cream soup, with pearl barley and asparagus tops as garnish. — Quebec (Maigre). — White haricot bean puree, enriched with cream, garnished with finely cut vegetables. — Queues de Boeuf (Ox-tail). — Thick ox-tail soup with jardinifere or macedoine vegetable garnish (brown). — Queues de Veau h. I'lndienne (Indian Calf's Tail Soup). — A thick calf's tail soup, flavoured with curry and garnished with rice. — Rachel. — White veal purde, enriched with cream, garnished with strips of fried bacon, calf's head, and slices of truffle. — Raphael. — Chicken puree, garnished with dice shapes of celeriac and rice. — Rigence (Regent). — A light puree of fowls, garnished with macfedoine of vegetables. — Reine (Queen). — A cream-like chickea soup, gcirnished with small chicken quenelles and rice. — Beiue Margot. — Chicken cream soup with rice. POTAGES— SOUPS. 89 Palfage Reine Wilhelmine. — Chicken puree, thickened , ' with rice, cream and egg-yolk liaison, with asparagus points and julienne strips of cooked carrots and truffles as garnish. — Ris de Veau & la Reine. — Sweetbread soup, queen style. — Risotto. — Rice puree, mixed with tomato pulp diluted with rich consomme. — Riz aux Choux. — Light cream of rice soup with julienne cut white cabbage, blanched and cooked in stock. • — Romaine (Roman). — A white thick soup with small rice quenelles. — Romio. — A rich Parmentier puree (potato) mixed with half its volume of onion puree (Soubise), finished with a liaison of cream and egg-yolks ; garniture ; chervil leaves, poached white of egg, and dice of ham. — Rouennaise. — Puree of duck with lentil puree and cream (croutons). — Russe (Russian). — Lobster bisque, blended with tomato puree, with small lobster quenelles as garnish. — Sagou au Lait. — Sago soup with milk (white). — Sant6 (Health).— Sorrel soup, with cabbage, lettuce, and herbs. , — Savoyarde. — Celery and potato purees, blended with cream, and cheese-coated crofltons as garnish. — Semoule. — Semolina soup with cream (white). — Sivigni, — Light chicken pur^e with cream, and royal made with egg and chicken cream as garnish. — S6vlgn6 (Royale). — A light chicken cream, with aspar- agus points, royal custard, dice of chicken fillets, and truffles as garnish. — Souveraine. — Chicken cream soup, enriched with pistachio pounded kernels and butter liaison. — St. Cloud. — Puree of French beans and broad beans, with finely chopped lettuce. — St. Germain. — Pea puree enriched with cream (crofi tons). — St. Hubert. — Puree of game (hare or other game), with small game quenelles or dice cut fillets of game. — St. Martha. — A blend of green pea, leek, and lettuce purees, with cream liaison. — St. Martin. — Potato puree with sorrel and watercress purees added, cream liaison (croutons). — SuUane.^White chicken puree with pistachios and truffles as garniture. — Suzette. — Puree of cucumber and peas, blended, garnished with poached yolks of eggs. 90 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Potage Sylvestra. — Chicken consomme, blended with velout6 cream and egg-yolks, garnished with asparagus points and small chicken quenelles stuffed v/ith spinach. — Tapioca au Lait. — Tapioca soup with milk. — Terapene (River Turtle Soup). — A kind of thick turtle soup made with terrapin turtle. — Tomates (aux). — Thick tomato soup. — Tomate Maigre (red). — Tomato soup made from vege- table or fish stock. — Tomate k la St. Louis. — Tomato puree thickened with tapioca, garnished with small chicken quenelles. — Toplnambours. — Palestine or artichoke soup (white). — Tortus lifie. — Thick real turtle soup (brown). — Tortue Fausse. — Mock turtle soup (brown). — Trazondre. — Salsify puree, enriched with cream (crou- tons). — Trufles (aux). — A light puree of fresh truffles, made with veal stock, egg, and cream liaison, and consomme. — • Tschl de Soldat (A Russian Soup). — A rich beef broth, slightly thickened with brown roux, and flavoured with sour cream ; served with small fried choux paste balls and shredded ham. — Turqne (Turkish). — Tomato' puree with rice. — Tyrolienne (Tyrolian Soup). — Barley cream soup with onions and carrots. — Tzarina. — Pur6e of grouse and celery cream, with celery strips as garnish. — Val§ry. — Puree of partridge with small quenelles.") — Veau (Veal Soup, white). — A thick soup made of veal. — Valour (au) (Velvet). — Chicken cream soup thickened with rice and tapioca. — Veloutd au Riz. — Rice soup made with rich veal or chicken stock, enriched with cream. — V6nitienne. — Bechamel cream soup with spinach puree (croutons). — Vermicelle au Lait. — Vermicelli soup with milk (white). — Vl«hy. — Pur6e of red carrots with cream liaison. — Victor Hugo. — Purfee of Jerusalem artichokes with tapioca and cream liaison. — Victoria. — A puree of potatoes, with sprigs of cauli- flowers as garnish. — Vin de Bourgogne (au). — A brown beef soup, flavoured with Burgundy wine. — Virginia. — Puree of broad beans with cream liaison (croutons). i - THE FISH COURSE. pi fot^ge Voisln. — Chicken and veal puree with cream /' liaison, and spring vegetables as garnish. — Waldstein. — A rich puree of pheasant, mixed with an equal quantity of consomme, flavoured with white Burgundy, seasoned with paprika, etc., garnished with chopped truffles and Piquoli kernels. — Wellington. — Chicken cream soup, blended with celery puree, and rice as garnish. — Windsor (brown). — A thick soup made with calf's feet, mutton or beef, and rice. — Xavler. — Cream of rice soup, blended with chicken puree, garnished with royal custard and chicken fillets cut in dice. Soupe i la Blere. — French beer soup, (brown). — aux Chrises. — Cherry soup, made with sour cooking cherries, and a liaison of potato flour flavoured with cinnamon. JBread crovttes as garnish. — au Lait. — Milk soup (Lenten soup). — d, rOlgnon. — French onion soup (brown). PART IV. THE FISH COURSE. LES POISSONS. Fish is served in two ways, viz., plainly cooked and dressed as an entree. Many people prefer fish cooked in the simplest way, accompanied by a good sauce ; and the English epicure finds far greater enjoyment in fish cooked in the simplest manner than the French epicure in the elaborately cooked and dressed fish entree. Fish is cooked in various ways — boiled, steamed, baked, fried, stewed, and grilled. Almost every kind of fish gains in importance' if served with a well-made sauce. When two fish are served at a dinner, the boiled or whole — i.e., solid — fish should be served before the fried, stewed or braised. Plain boiled potatoes or so-called fish potatoes, which are of marble shapes, sprinkled with chopped parsley, should be handed round with all solid fish cooked au naturel, whilst boiled or grilled salmon should in all cases be accompanied by a dish of sliced cucumber, plainly dressed. 92 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. PLATS DE POISSON-FISH DISHES. Aigrefin—Uaddoch. Algrefin dtouSi. — Fresh haddock steamed in the oven. — grilH. — Grilled or broiled fresh haddock. — ^ la Maltre d 'Hotel. — Boiled or steamed haddock with parsley sauce, or grilled with parsley butter. Filets d'Algrefins Irits, Sauce Tartare. — Fried fillets of fresh haddock, tartare sauce. Able sautS h la Dlable. — Devilled bleak tossed in butter. Alose au gratin. — Baked shad, gratin style. Anguille — Eel, Anguille h, I'Anglaise. — Stewed eel, English style. — en Aspic (Eel in Savoury Jelly). — Cooked and boned eel and slices of hard-boiled egg set in aspic jelly. — & la Beaucaire. — Boned eels stuffed with whiting farce, mixed with chopped mushrooms, dressed in spiral form in baking dish or casserole, and braised with white sauce, small onions, and mushrooms. — 4 la broche. — Grilled eel with parsley butter. — en caisses. — Braised eel in paper cases. — ik la Durand. — Boned eels, stuffed with whiting farce, curled up and trussed, braised with butter and vege- table mirepoix. — & I'EspagnoIe.— Eel fried in oil, then stewed in fish stock and wine, flavoured with garlic, saffron, and peppercorns ; garnished with blanched coarsely shredded baked almonds. — i la Florimond. — Marinaded eels, wrapped in oiled paper and baked in oven, served with parsley butter, and echalote sauce. — glacie. — Rolled fillets of eel, broiled, and glazed with a rich brown sauce and meat glaze. — i ritalienne (Eel Stewed, Italian style). — Stewed eel with small rice timbales. — 4 la Maconnalse. — Eel stewed in Burgundy wine sauce, with crayfish tails and oysters. — en Matelote. — Brown eel stew, flavoured with claret, button onions, and mushrooms. — 4 la M6nagire. — Split eel, grilled, spread over with maitre d'hotel butter and mustard. — A la Meunidre. — Boned eel, cut in portion pieces, dipped in flour aud fried in butter, : .:rved \vith Noisette butter, lemon juice, aud chopped parsley. THE FISH COURSE. 93 ^ Aihguille ii rOrly. — Fillets of eel, egged and crumbed or ' dipped in frying batter, and fried in deep fat, served with tomato sauce. — 4 la Pompadour. — Boiled eel, coated with white sauce, egged and crumbed, and fried ; egged sauce or choron sauce, and small potato balls. — & la Poulette. — Fricasseed eel in parsley sauce. — d la Proven^ale. — Fried eel, onion sauce. — & la Romaine. — Small piece of eel stewed with butter sauce, green peas, and finely cut lettuces, served in casserole. — !l la Rouennaise. — Boned eel, cut in portions, stewed in matelotte sauce, garnished with oysters, soft roes, champignons, and fried smelts. — ^ la Taitare (Eel, Tartare style). — Parboiled eel, cut in pieces, drained, dipped in batter and fried, dished up in circles, with tartare sauce in centre. — ^ la Vinitienne. — Rolled eel fillets, cooked, (j.e.,p9ached) in court-bouillon and glazed in oven, garnished with dice-cut champignons, and fish roe ; sauce Venitienne. Blanquette d'AnguUle. — Stewed eel in white sauce. Friture d'Anguille. — Skinned and boned pieces of eel, seasoned, egged, crumbed, and fried, served with piquant sauce. Barbue — Srill, Barbue brals^e k I'Amlral. — ^Brill braised with chablis and white stock, garnished with fried oysters and mussels, pommes Parisienne, and thin slices of truffle and lemon ; served with cardinal sauce. — bouilUe. — Boiled brill. — au gratln.— Baked brill, gratin style. BarbiUon. — Young brill. Filets de Barbue frite.— Fried fillets of brill. — 4 la Boulonnaise. — Fillets of brill, poached in oven, with white wine sauce, mixed with chopped parsley, garnished with oysters, mussels, and soft roes. — i la Donter. — Fillets of brill, poached in oven, drained on rice foundation, and sauced over with shrimp sauce ; breaded and browned in oven. — ^ la Grand Due. — Fillets of brill, dipped in velout6 sauce, eggs and breadcrumbs, served with veloute sauce, to which is added horseradish, tomato pulp, and cream ; garnished with mussels and oysters. — i la Madeleine. — Fillets of brill covered on one side with whiting forcemeat mixed with herbs, placed in paupiette rings and saut6ed, and. white stock and mirepoix ; then dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and fried ; served with marseillaise sauce. 94 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Fiiefs de Barbiie k la Russe.— Fillets of brill poached richly flavoured fish essence (reduced fish stock) sauced over with a mushroom sauce, and glazed under the salamander. BlanchaiUes^ Whitebait, BlanchalUes .^ la DIable.— Whitebait devilled, seasoned with salt and cayenne. — a I'Indienne — Fried whitebait, seasoned with salt and curry powder. — a la Madras.— Same as "Indienne." — au natnrel.— Whitebait fried crisp in deep fat. Bouille-a-Baisse (French Fish Stew).— Fish stew made from various kinds of fish and lobster, flavoured with garhc, savoury herbs, and white wine, Court-Bouillon (au).— A French savoury fish stew pre- pared from various kinds of fish, tomatoes, etc. Jirochet — Pi/ce. Brochet 4 TAnclenne.— Stewed pike, served with white sauce, garnished with truffles, gherkins, mushrooms and capers. — 4 la Castelalne (Pike, Castelaine style).— Braised pike stufied with sliced truffles, tongue, and bacon- served with white sauce, and garnished with lobster croquettes, truffles, and oysters. - — a la Cavour (Pike, Cavour style).-BroUed pike, gar- nished with nouiUes, grated horseradish, and carrSts • served with rich velout6 sauce. — frit.— Fried pike garnished with lemon and parsley. — farcl ef grating,- Stuffed pike, baked, gratin style — grills.— Grilled or broiled pike. — 4 la RSmoulade (Pike. Remoulade style).— Grilled pike erved with a remoulade sauce ^ ^""'fxrH"^®"*"!"". '?'•>"! ^ '* Colbert-Fillets of pike larded, cooked m the oven, with brown wine sauce — piqu6 i la Lyonnaise.— Fillets of pike stewed in white ZTJ^'"''^- f°^ P^jshed with small marble-shaped potatoes cooked m fish stock. ^ ''^^^fr!?!! «?, Bfo«het.~Round or oval-shaped fillets Lnd but'J^r '^h"®'"',^"^ P°^'=^^'l '" couS-bouiUon fish s^uce " ^ • ^""^ ^"^^^ ^"'^ ^™^» —a la R6gence.--Small oval fillets spread with butter an,] shces of truffles, wrapped in oUed paper and cooked m oven with white wine and butter fgarartu re Regence and sauce. giin'ture THE FISH COURSE. 95 Cabillaud — Cod, Cabillaud i, I'Andalouse. — Slices of cod cooked in white wine sauce and tomato purfee ; garnished with noisetti potatoes. — a I'Anglaise. — Boiled cod with melted butter sauce. — bouilli. — Boiled cod. — bouilli aux Capres. — Boiled cod with caper sauce. — • en coquilles. — Codfish baked and served in shells. — aux Crevettes. — Boiled cod and shrimp sauce. — ^ la Di^ppoise. — Slices of cod dipped in milk and flour, fried, drained, and served with white matelotte sauce. — 4 la Flamande. — Cod slices, baked in white sauce, flavoured with white Bordeaux wine and chopped herbs. — ■ frit, sauce Anchols. — Fried cod and anchovy sauce. — au gratln. — Baked cod, gratin style. — grill6 k la Colbert (Grilled Cod, Colbert style).— Slices of cod dipped in dissolved butter and flour, grilled, and served with maStre d'hotel butter. — sauce aux Huitres. — Boiled cod, oyster sauce. — • d rindlenne. — Fried or grilled cod with curry sauce. — -4 la Maitaise. — Cod stewed in veloute sauce, white wine, stock, shallots, and bouquet garni ; sauce flavoured with anchovy paste, chopped parsley, and capers. — i la Nantaise. — Slices of cod, spread over with lobster pur6e or farced, baked, and served with fish supreme sauce. — • i! la Portugaise (Cod, Portuguese style). — Slices of cod fried ; served with a sauce composed of tomato sauce, essence of anchovy and mussels. — recr^pl, bouilH.^Crimped cod, boiled. — d . la Reine. — Poached cod slices with fish supreme sauce and fish quenelles. Darne de Cabillaud k la Sefton. — Boiled cod coated with cream chaudfroid sauce, coloured with spinach pur6e. Garnish : salad, chopped cucumber, and diamond shapes of aspic. Kedgeree de Cabillaud. — Finely flaked cooked cod, re-heated with butter, jrice, and hard-boiled egg (shredded), moistened with bfechamel sauce ; served hot as breakfast dish. Mousseline de Cabillaud. — Steamed codflsh souffle served with cardinal sauce. 96 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. , t Carpe—Carp. Carpe t I'Alsacienne. — Boned carp stuffed with white fish farce, and cooked in wine-flavoured fish stock. Served with choucrouts and potato cubes (boiled). Light white butter sauce. — ^ 4 la Juive. — Filleted carp, fried in oil, served on fish farce basis, with chopped parsley and suitable sauce. — il la Royale. — Skinned and boned carp, poached in fish stock with Chablis and aromatic herbs, dressed crown shape, with slices of truffles. Garnished in centre with mushroom heads and fish roe. Sauced over with Sauce Normande. — au bleu. — Boiled carp. — tarcle. — Stuffed carp, baked. — frlte. — Fried carp. — gratin^e. — Baked carp, gratin style. Carrelet — Flounder. Carrelet frit, Sauce Persil. — Fried flounder, parsley sauce. Souchet de Carrelet (Souchet of Flounder). — Boiled flounder with finely-cut strips of carrots and turnips, and chopped parsley. Belgnets de Clames.— Clam fritters. Coquilles de Crevettes.— Coquilles of shrimps. — aux Huitres. — Coquilles of oyster. — de Moules. — Scalloped mussels. — de Poissons (Coquilles of Fish). — Stewed fish served in shells. Scalloped fish. — aux Queues d'Ecrevlsses. — Coquilles of crayfish tails. Crabe larcle, — Dressed and stuffed crab. Ecrevisses — Crayfish. (May also be prepared as Lobster.) Ecrevisses i la Bordelaise. — Crayfish tails or prawns cooked in rich mirepoix, served with fish veloute sauce and lobster butter. With chopped parsley — in casserole. — 4 la Cardinal. — Crayfish tails dressed with Normande sauce and truffle slices in buttered gratin dish, with potato border, and browned in oven. — 4 la Magenta — Prepared the same as "Bordelaise." with addition of sliced tomatoes, sa\'oury herbs, and white wine sauce, served in casserole. Belgnets d'Ecrevisses.— Crayfish fritters. Belgnets d'Esoargots. — Snail fritters. Escargots 4 I'Anglalse. — Stewed snails. THE FISH COURSE. 97 Eperlans — Smelts. Eperlans k I'Anglalse. — Split smelts, boned, egged, and crumbed, and fried in butter ; served with lemon. — & la Baron Brisse.— Split and boned smelts, grilled, spread with parsley butter, garnished with Noisette potatoes. — en Broehettes. — Fried smelts on skewers. — & la Cilistlne. — Boned smelts stuffed with forcemeat, placed on pancake and forcemeat sandwiches cut in triangles or other shapes, sauteed ; garnished with prawns, and served with remoulade sauce. — au Citron. — Smelts dipped in panurette, and fried ; garnished with fried parsley and lemon. Served with plate of brown bread and butter. — ^ la Diable. — Fried smelts devilled. — frits. — Fried smelts. — gratlnSs. — Baked smelts. — ^ la Julve. — Boned smelts, dipped in frying batter and fried ; served with tartare sauce. — farcis d, la Pouraine. — Smelts stuffed with forcemeat, mushrooms, and parsley, covered with melted butter, and baked ; dished up, covered with bechamel sauce, and browned under salamander. Souffle d 'Eperlans. — SoufHfe consisting of fillets of smelts, whiting, bechamel sauce, cream, and white of egg. Timbale d'Eperlans k la St. Mandd. — Mould lined with smelt fillets and filled with smelt-flavoured fish mousse. Steamed aad served with caviare sauce. Esturgeon — Sturgeon. Esturgeon & I'Anchois. — Boiled sturgeon with anchovy sauce. I — brals6. — Braised sturgeon. — k la Cardinal (Sturgeon, Cardinal style). — Boiled sturgeon, garnished with quenelles of whiting and crajrfish, and served with cardinal sauce. Darne d 'Esturgeon k la Milanaise (Sturgeon Steak, Milanese style). — Middle piece or steak of sturgeon stewed ; garnished with eel-pout livers and crayfish tails. PapiUotes d'Estnrgeon. — Stewed sturgeon in paper cases. Belgnets de Grenouilles. — Frogs' legs fritters. Goujon (Gudgeons). — A kind of small fish like whitebait, dipped in flour, and fried in deep fat. Grenouilles frites. — Fried frogs. G 98 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Grondins farci 6toufl6. — Baked gurnet, stuffed ; dished on fried bread croutons ; served with sauce matelot, mixed with anchovy essence and fish liquor. — i la Talleyrand. — Baked fillets of gurnet, served with a sauce consisting of butter, flour, fish liquor, fish stock, cream, and yolks of two eggs beaten up with lemon juice. Jn^tan — Halibut , (May also be prepared as Flounder, Brill or Turbot.) Fl§tan au gratin. — Baked halibut. — griI16e, sauce crevettes. — Grilled halibut, shrimp sauce. Hareng — Herring. Hareng frals grille. — Grilled fresh herring. — ;au beurre. — Broiled herring in butter. — i la Diable. — Grilled herrings, coated with mustard and fried breadcrumbs, and served with ravigote sauce. — Farcis. — Boned herrings, stuffed with herb farce, wrapped in oiled paper and baked in oven. Served with white wine sauce. — a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Grilled herring with parsley butter. — 4 la Moutarde. — Grilled herring with mustard sauce. — ^ la Nantaise. — Herrings with soft roes, rolled in flour and crumbed, then fried in butter, served with mayonnaise flavoured with cooked roes and mustard. — & la Portidre. — Herrings with incisions filled with mustard and parsley, then fried in butter. Served with brown butter, flavoured with vinegar. Homard — Lobster. Homard & rAm6ricaine (Lobster, American style). — Lobster stewed in the shell with tomato sauce, red wine, and savoury herb seasoning. — en Aspie. — Lobster and hard-boUed egg set in moulds with savoury or aspic jelly. — i la Bechamel (Baked Lobster, Bechamel style). — Shells of lobster filled with minced lobster meat, bechamel sauce, and seasoning, and baked. — & la Bordelaise. — Lobster steiyed in tomato sauce, blended with white wine and chopped herbs ; served in timbales. — 4 la Cardinal. — Minced lobster, mixed with Nantua sauce, and filled in shells, breaded, and browned in oven. . — sautfi i, la Dumas. — Lobster meat tossed in butter and finished in brown sauce, flavoured with white wine, paprika, and lemon juice. THE FISH COURSE. 99 itdfomard larcl. — Stuffed lobster baked. — k la Gloucester (Lobster, Gloucester style). — Stewed lobster, with a sauce composed of pulverised lobster shell, butter, egg yolks, and meat extract. — au gratin. — Baked lobster, gratin style. — it la Hongrolse (Hungarian). — Scalloped lobster in shells, moistened with white sauce, paprika seasoning, and cream, browned in oven. — h rindienne. — Curried lobster in border of rice. — 4 la Newbury. — Lobster, sliced, poached in Madeira, with sherry, chopped parsley, etc., and finished in cream and egg-yoUc liaison. — i la Suidolse (Lobster, Swedish fashion). — Border of lobster meat and forcemeat, poached in a fancy border mould, and sauced over with anchovy sauce. — d la Tourville. — Slices of lobster meat tossed in butter, and cooked with " risotto," dressed in shells and sauced with fish veloute. — ^ la Turque (Turkish). — Sliced lobster meat, cooked in mirepoix, flavoured with brandy and saffron ; dish garnished with small curried rice timbales. — 4 la Vanderbilt. — Minced lobster meat with chopped truffles and mushrooms, blended with Nantua sauce," filled into shells, and browned in oven. Bordure de Hoiuard ik I'lndlenne. — Border of savoury lobster mixture, centre filled with rice, decorated with hard-boiled egg and truffle. Buissons de Homard (Bush of Lobsters). — Lobster dressed in a pyramidal form. Coquilles de Homard t, la Gauloise. — Poached coquiUe shapes of lobster forcemeat, with lobster scallop in centre of each, served with cardinal sauce. — de Homard (Scalloped Lobster). — Stewed lobster served in shells. CStelettes de Homard (Lobster Cutlets). — Mixture of lobster, shallots. Bechamel sauce, mushrooms, and egg made into cutlet shapes, egged, crumbed, fried, and served with tomato or other sauce. — de Homard :l 1' Aspic. — Slices of lobster meat set in aspic, cutlet shapes. — 4 la Tomate. — Lobster cutlets with tomato sauce. Mayonnaise de Homard. — Pieces of lobster and salad masked with mayonnaise sauce, decorated with pieces of claws, hard-boiled egg, strips of fillet of anchovy, capers, beetroot, coral, stoned olives, and gherkins. Mousse de Homard {rapp£e. — Iced lobster souffle, top decorated with lobster coral and paprika. 100 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Petites Dormes de Homard i la Crime. — Lobster an, tomato aspic set in square fluted moulds, dressed pn squares of pastry. ■ Souffli de Homard, sauce aurora. — Steamed soufiHe, con-- sisting of lobster, eggs, and bechamel sauce, served with aurora sauce. Huitres— Oysters. (See also chapter on Oyster Savouries.) Huttres ^ I'Americalne. — Oysters, poached in fish liquor, served in own shells or coquilles, sauced over with tomato sauce, flavoured with lobster puree. — en coquilles. — Scalloped oysters. — !l la Duxelles. — Oyster stew baked in shells. — i la Du Barry. — Small baked potatoes stuffed with oysters ; supreme sauce. — & la Favorite. — Scalloped oysters, served in shells, with dice of truffle on each, sauced with bechamel and grated parmesan cheese, then browned in oven. — frites. — Fried oysters. — grill^es. — Grilled or broiled oysters. — i la Poulette. — Fricasseed oysters, rich white sauce, and chopped parsley. — i la Salamandre. — Oysters on shells with supreme sauce and cayenne ; sprinkled with breadcrumbs, grated parmesan, and butter ; browned under salamander. Belgnets d'Huttres. — Oyster fritters. Cbaudfroid d 'huitres k la Montpeller Oysters set in aspic in border of rice, masked with white or red chaud- froid sauce, centre filled with seasoned green salad. Cromeskies aux huitres. — Small cork shapes or rolls, composed of minced oysters, oyster liquor, cream, lemon juice, egg-yolks, etc., then wrapped in bacon, dipped in batter, and fried in deep fat ; garnished with fried parsley. Fricassee d 'huitres. — Oysters stewed in white sauce, also sliced mushrooms, if liked. Quenelles aux huitres. — Small chicken or veal quenelles, with one or two oysters in centre of each, poached in fish stock, served coated with white sauce. — frltes aux huitres.— Fried oyster quenelles, served with piquant or white wine sauce. Petlts Pat6s aux huitres.— Puff pastry patties filled with a delicately-prepared oyster stew or ragout. Lamprole saut^e & la Fran; alse. — Stewed lamprey, French style. — en Iricass6e. — Fricasseed lamprey. Missing Page Missing Page Missing Page Missing Page THE FISH COURSE. 105 Aougets aux fines herbes. — Stewed red mullets with fine herb sauce. — au gratin. — Baked red mullets, gratin style. — grilles, sauee ravigote. — Grilled mullets and ravigote sauce. — ^ ritalienne. — Broiled red mullets, served with Italian sauce. — ^ la Janin. — Red mullets, boned and stuffed, cooked in oven, same as in papilottes ; served with Genfivoise sauce. — ^ la Juive. — Fillets of red mullets soaked in oil mari- nade, and fried garnished with parsley ; served with tartare or tomato sauce. — ^ la Marseillaise. — Red mullet broiled in butter, then finished in tomato and onion stew ; suitably flavoured and served like " Bouillabaise." — & la Nantalse. — Grilled red mullet, served with demi- glace sauce, flavoured with shallots, wine, and puree of fish roes ; garnished with slices of lemon. — ^ la Ni(jolse. — Grilled red mullet, garnished with tomatoes tossed in butter, anchovy fillets, olives, and capers. — en papillotes (Red Mullets in Paper Cases). — Fish wrapped separately in oiled paper, with the ends twisted, and thus baked or broiled, dished up, and served with brown fine herb sauce. — & la Polonaise. — Baked mullets with rich butter and cream sauce, breaded, and browned. — i la Portugaise. — Baked mullet, with chopped savoury herbs, sliced tomatoes, and claret sauce. — i la ProvenQale. — Baked iilullets with chopped parsley and onion ; served with tomato sauce (garlic-flavoured) and cucumber puree. — d la Trouville. — Boned mullet, poached in white wine and fish stock, then dished and sauced with Colbert sauce, and baked. — & la V6nltienne. — Baked red mullets with brown sauce ; garnished with Spanish olives, stuffed with fish forcemeat and mushroom heads. — ^ la Villeroi. — Marinaded red mullet, dipped in Villeroi sauce, egged and crumbed, and fried in deep fat. Saint Pi'erre — John Dory. Cooked and served like Brill, Flounder or Plaice. Saumon — Salmon. Saumon & I'Amiral. — Boiled salmon, garnished with lobster or cra)^sh and fried oysters, and served with Gen§voise sauce. io6 PRACTICAL GASTRONOME. Saumon & la Balmoral. — Thick slices of salmon, poached in fish stock, garnished with fish quenelles, crayfish, truffles, and small potato balls ; served with cham- bord sauce. — a la champ^ry. — Thick slices of salmon, baked in butter and white wine, served with brown caper sauce and olive-shaped potatoes. — i la Danoise (Danish). — Boiled salmon, served with hoUandaise sauce, blended with anchovy essence. — k la Di^ppoise. — Boiled or baked slices of salmon with mussel sauce, garnished with potato balls. — ^ la Godard. — Braised salmon with a. collection of cooked vegetable mac^doine dressed round the dish. — 4 la HoUandaise. — Boiled salmon with Dutch sauce, garnished with olive-shaped boiled potatoes. — & la Marianne. — Baked slices of salmon, dressed on spinach puree or with spinach timbales, mariniere sauce, with addition of mussels. — d la Matelote. — Sauteed slices of salmon with espagnole sauce, poached fish quenelles, slices of mushrooms, and truffles ; garnished with braised button onions, truffles, etc. — en tranches t la Meurlce.^ — Slices of salmon braised and served with a rich brown sauce, flavoured with savoury herbs. — ^ la Monte-Carlo. — Centre piece of salmon, boiled, sauced with Nantua sauce, and garnished with asparagus tips, French beans, and carrots ; also small carrolette of potato or rice. — & la Montmorency. — Head piece or middle cut of salmon baked, dished up, upper skin removed ; sauced over with matelote sauce ; garnished with . stoned and stuffed Spanish olives. — ii la Michat Faeha. — Boiled salmon with date sauce. — en papillotes. — Heart-shaped slices of salmon wrapped in grease-proof paper, and thus boiled or baked ; served with a rich brown herb sauce. — & la Parislenne. — Slices of salmon, cut rather thick, braised in mirepoix and claret ; dished up and gar- nished with groups of champignons, little fish croquettes, crayfish tails, and poached oysters ; sauce genoise is served with it. — i la PiSmontalse. — Fried fillets of salmon ; garnished with small timbales of savoury rice ; tomato sauce. — ik la Richelieu. — Centre piece of salmon, boiled or baked, coated with lobster mousse sauce, and gar- nished with fried soft roes, oysters, and crayfish or prawns. THE FISH COURSE. toy Saumon t ia Sichemont. — Grilled pickled salmon with tomato sauce. — i la Rothschild. — Centre piece of salmon, farced with truflle stufifing, and baked ; garnished with champig- nons, oysters, and truffles ; served with Nantua sauce. — a la P6rigueux. — Broiled salmon or salmon trout stuffed with truffles and served with truffle sauce. — ^ la Valoiss. — Grilled salmon steak, with lobster butter, served with valois sauce, and garnished with small rounds of baked potatoes and fried oysters. — i la Victoria. — Broiled salmon with stewed oysters, crayfish quenelles, Madeira sauce. — bouilli, sauce HoUandaise. — Boiled salmon with Hol- iandaise or Dutch sauce. — grills au beurre d'anchois. — Grilled salmon with anchovy butter. — grille au persU. — Grilled salmon with parsley butter. — griU6 aux fines herbes. — Grilled salmon with fine herb butter. Cdtelettes de Saumon i, la Danolse. — Salmon cutlets spread on each side with anchovy paste and fried ; served with Danish sauce. — 4 la Richelieu. — Salmon cutlets, poached in marinade, masked with cold fish farce (flavoured with tomatoes and anchovy), and with tomato aspic, dressed crown shape with cucumber and pimiento salad in centre. Darloles de Saumon k la Moscovlenne (cold). — Darioles, shapes of salmon, ornamented with truffles, oysters, chopped aspic, and cucumber. Darne de Saumon> i la Chambord. — Boiled middle cut of salmon, skinned, dished up, garnished with fish quenelles, heads of mushrooms, cooked oysters, slices of truffles and crayfish tails, sauced with a rich brown fish sauce. — k rArcliiduc— Boiled middle cut of salmon, skinned, dished up, sauced over with a rich brown fish sauce, and garnished with fried oysters and small puff- pastry lobster patties. — aux fines herbes. — Grilled salmon steak with parsley butter. — 4 la National. — Broiled piece of salmon and white sauce ; garnished with groups of stewed potato and cucumber balls. — 4 la Ravigote (cold). — Boiled centre piece of salmon, masked and decorated with cold ravigote sauce and fresh butter, centre of salmon filled with salad or vegetable macedoine, and sides garnished with hard- boiled egg, green peas, and chopped aspic ; served with tartare sauce. io8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY Darne de Saumon A, la Vert-Pr6 (cold). — Cold salmon,V;oated with green chaudfroid sauce, garnished with di^ssed salad, sliced cucumber, and diamond shapes of asp^c. Escalopes de Saumon & I'lndlenne. — Fried salmon cutlets>- served with curry sauce, mixed with chopped picca- lilli, also plain rice as accompaniment. — i la Nantaise. — CoUops of salmon, seasoned and broiled in butter ; dished up alternately with slices of lobster ; dressed with stewed oysters and lobster sauce. Filets de Saumon 4 la Duehesse. — Braised fillets of salmon arranged in the centre of a mashed potato border, masked with rich brown sauce, and garnished with mushroom heads and slices of tomatoes. — aux huitres. — Rolled fillets of salmon with stewed oysters braised and served with a rich brown sauce. — sautes ^ la P^rlgueux. — Braised fillets of salmon, with truffle sauce. — & la Rfigence. — Rolled fillet of salmon, stuffed, and served with regent sauce. Grenadins de Saumon & la Vinitlenne. — Fillets of salmon, larded, seasoned, and braised, dressed in a circle alternately with heart-shaped bread croiitons, sauced with a well-buttered parsley sauce blended with tomato. Hflre de Saumon aux truffes. — Braised headpiece of salmon, with truffle sauce.. — jk la Cambac^res. — Braised head-piece of salmon, garnished with truffles, mushrooms, and stoned olives, sauced with a rich brown fish sauce seasoned with cayenne and lemon juice. — d la Mod^rne. — Boiled and baked head-piece of salmon, sauced over with brown fish sauce ; garnished with small groups of cork-shaped pieces of fish sausage, sliced truffles, mushroom heads, and stoned and blanched olives ; top of fish garnished with slices of lemon, truffles, and parsley. Mousseline de Saumon 4 la Cardinal. — Timbale or dariole of light salmon forcemeat (souffle), served with cardinal sauce. Pat6 de Saumon k I'Homard. — Raised salmon pie with layers of lobster meat. Pauplettos de Saumon i. la Relne. — Quenelles of fish, rolled in salmon fillets, and poached in chablis and fish stock ; dressed in fi,sh farce border, and garnished with braised olive shapes of cucumber ; hot ravigote sauce. Souffles de Saumon d I'lndlenne.— Cold souffle of curried salmon, decorated with anchovy butter or anchovy cream. Hit. jri^iH cuuiiim. 109 Queue de Saumon aux huttres.— Braised tail-piece of salmon with stewed oysters. Tranchettes de Saumon en Belle Vue (cold). — Small sandwich-shaped moulds of salmon set in aspic and mayonnaise cream. Soles — Soles. Sole frlte k I'Anglaise. — Fried sole with anchovy sauce or melted butter. Soles d la Bedford. — Grilled soles garnished with croustades half filled with mushroom and truffle, and other half with spinach; sauce, mornay. — & la Bfircy. — Skinned soles, cooked in oven, with butter, shallots, white wine, mushroom liquor, and chopped parsley ; coated with bercy sauce. — d la Bignon. — Steamed sole, with white wine sauce, blended witR* tomato puree a la Portugaise. — d la Banne Femme. — Poached on mirepoix of fresh mushrooms, shallots, parsley, white wine, and fish stock ; fish veloute sauce. — d la Bosanlaque. — Steamed sole, seasoned with paprika and white wine ; garnished with julienne of carrots, celery, and mushrooms cooked in fish stock ; sauce, au vin blanc. — bouillie. — Boiled sole. — d la Gastillene. — Baked sole, with normande sauce, garnished with champignons, lobster dice, and glazed potato balls. — ik la Colbert.— Fried sole with centre bone removed, stufled with fine herb or parsley butter. — 4 la Cond6. — Baked sole, with sliced tomato and white wine sauce. — d la Daumont. — Soles with centre bone removed, and filled with whiting farce, cooked in white wine and fish stock ; sauce, nantua — d I'EspagnoIe. — Fried soles, garnished with sliced tomatoes sauteed in oil, and fried onion rings. — frlte. — Fried sole, garnished with fried parsley and cut lemon. — & la Gastronome. — Stuffed fried sole with shrimp sauce. — au gratin. — Baked sole, with brown sauce and mush- rooms, breaded and browned in oven. — gratinfe. — Baked sole, gratin style. — grill^e k la Maltre d'Hdtel.— Grilled sole with parsley butter. — d la Hambourgeoise. — Steamed sole, garnished with julienne strips of carrot and celery root cooked in stock, sauced over with sauce vin blanc. no PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. " Soles ik la Normande. — ^Poached soles in white wine, etc., garnished with oysters, mussels, and button mush- rooms, sauced over with normande sauce, served with buttered and browned slices of French rolls. , — au Parmesan. — Soles cooked in mushroom liquor, etc. sauced over with bechamel, flavoured with parmesan cheese ; browned under salamander, and served in same dish. / 7— au vin blanc. — Braised sole with white wine sauce. Filets de Soles k TAmirlcalne. — Fillets of soles cooked with white wine in gratin dish ; sauced over with rich tomato sauce and lobster butter ; breaded aud browned in oven. — 4 I'Ambassade. — Filleted sole, cooked in fish stock and white wine in oven, coated with Momay sauce, with tomato pur6e added. — t I'Andalouse. — Rolled fillets of sole, farced with lobster puree, -poached, and finished with brown butter ; served with tomato sauce, with addition of cream or bechamel. — en Aspic (Cold). — -Folded fillets of sole poached, when cold dressed in aspic border shape, centre filled with seasoned salad. *■ — aux aubergines. — Baked fillets of soles dressed with nut browp buttery garnished with fried olive shapes of aubergine (egg-plant). — ^ la Belle H616ne. — Rolled fillets of sole, poached in white wine and mushroom liquor, dressed on nouille paste foundation, coated with bechamel sauce, breaded, and browned in oven. — Belles de Nutt. — Fillets of soles forced with fish farce and prawns ; poached" in white wine ; garnished with mushroom heads, potato cubes, and fomatbes ; sauce, normande. — i la BlanehalUe Sole fillets cut into fine strips, to ^resemble whitebait, dipped in milk amd flour, Snd fried in deep fat. — !l la Boitel. — Fillets of soles folded and poached in white wine and mushroom liquor ; dressed on dish and sauced over with white mushroom sauce ; baked. — sk la Bovin. — Poached fillets of soles with rich cream sauce flavoured with fish essence ; garnished with potato balls and chopped parsley. — i la Catalalne. — Poached fillets of soles dressed on border of Jerusalem artichokes, centre filled with cdpes tossed in butter ; sauced over with well- reduced rich b6chamel sauce. THE FISH COURSE. in Filets de Soles d la Cancale. — Fillets of soles poached in fish liquor and oyster liquor ; dressed and garnished with poached oysters and mushrooms ; sauced over with maitre d'hdtel sauce — i la Cardinal. — Curled up or folded fillets of soles, poached in fish stock, coated with red sauce com- posed of tomato, lobster sauces, and anchovy essence ; ' garnished with prawns or crayfish. — & la CarSme. — Braised fillets of spies, coated with rich white fish sauce, and garnished with lobster slices, soft roes, and fried oysters." / - 4 -la Chasseur Royal. — Steamed fillets of soles dressed on a white fish border, decorated with tnifHes and gariiished with oysters, mushrooms, and truffles ; royal chasseur sauce. a la Cherbourg. — Rolled fillets of soles braisgji in white wine, dished'up and garnished with oysters, crayfish, and mussels; sauced over with cardinal sauce. en fers 4 Chevai (cold).— Stuffed rolled fillets of^sole ^"^ set in horseshoe-shaped moulds, with mayonnaise or > aspic cream, decorated with truffles. — & la Chevaliire. — Rolled fillets of soles stuffed with fish farce mixed with chopped truffles ; poached in white wine ; sauced over with crayfish or bisque sauce, with finely chopped truffles on top. — & la Czarina.— Baked fillets of soles dressed on potato puree, scraped horseradish on each fillet ; served with a rich brown fish sauce, flavoured with tomato and meat glaze. — k la Dauphine. — Sole fillets spread over with a mixture of forcemeat, chopped shallots, parsley, and mush- rooms, folded and braised ; egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with lobster sauce. — & la Diable. — Rolled fillets of soles, crumbed and fried, served in paper cases, with devilled sauce poured over. — a la Diocl6tien. — Fillets of soles spread with fish farce, folded or rolled, and cooked in butter and Marsala wine ; garnished with small braised lettuces and small fish quenelles ; rich espagnole sauce, flavoured with fish liquor and chopped truffles. — ik la Dor6e. — Fillets of sole, dipped in flour and cream or milk, and fried in deep fat ; served with tomato- flavoureld bearnaise sauce. — & la Dugl£r6. — Fillets of sole, marinaded in gratin dish with cfushed tomatoes, onions, and parsley, savoury herbs, white wine, and lemon juice; seasoned and . cooked in dish. Pour ofif liquid, mix with flour and butter liaison, work up with fresh butter, and serve / over the fish. 112 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Filets de Soles & la Dumas. — Fillets of soles braised with butter, sauced over with white wine sauce mixed with tomato pur6e and chopped savoury herbs. — k I'Ellzabeth. — Rolled fillets of sole, farced with lobster pur6e, baked, and placed on small artichoke bottoms, sauced with bfechamel, coated with cheese, and browned before serving. — 4 la Ficampolse. — Poached fillets of sole, garnished with mussels, and served with shrimp sauce. — i la Florentine. — Fillets of soles dressed on and coated with a light spinach puree, enriched with cream, and flavoured with grated cheese ; baked in oven. — jk la Grand Due. — Fillets of soles poached in mushroom liquor, etc. ; dressed with alternate slices of truffles and prawn tails, masked with mornay sauce, sprinkled with cheese, etc., and browned ; garnished with asparagus points. — ^ la St. Georges. — Comet shapes of rolled fillets of sole, poached, and filled with salpicon of shrimps, lobster, and cream sauce ; placed in halves of baked potatoes, coated with t«rcy sauce, and browned in oven. — i la St. Germain. — Rolled and crumbed fillets of soles fried in butter, dressed on slices of lemon, with stiff beamaise sauce forced on top of each ; garnished with olive-shaped fried potatoes. — k rindienne. — Fried fillets of soles stuffed with lobster pur6e ; garnished with shreds of piccalilli, gherkins, and mushrooms, curry or madeira sauce ; served with boiled rice. — Jl la JoInviUe. — Rolled fillets of soles, dressed with truffles, prawns, cra^vfish, smelts, and small fish quenelles. — 4 la Leopold. — Baked fillets of sole, sauced over with truffle sauce, blended with shrimp puree. — ^ la Louis XV. — Lobster shells filled with fillets of sole, covered with lobster puree and white sauce, garnished with truffle slices. — Louisa- Anna. — Fillets of soles, folded, and poached in white wine, dressed on bread croiitons, sauced over with rich tomato puree, with slice of truffle in centre. — k\a, Marcelle. — Fillets of soles spread over with cham- pignon pur6e, folded and poached ; dressed on dish in border form, sauced over with pferigueux sauce, pommes de terre Anna (potatoes) in ceiitie. THE FISH COURSE. 113 Filets de Soles Jl la Marie-Louise. — Fillets of soles, folded, poached in white wine and mushroom liquor ; dressed in centre of oblong dish, with a fancy border of potato puree ; baked in oven ; sauced over with supreme sauce, with border , of green mousseline sauce, julienne strips of truffles sprinkled over the fillets ; served hot. — it la Mar^chale. — Stewed fillets of soles in reduced white sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ; bechamel sauce served separate. — 4 la Mayonnaise. — Fillets of soles set in border mould with mayonnaise aspic, centre filled with dressed salad. — & la Menagire. — Poached in red-wine flavoured stock, and served with bordelaise sauce. — tXa, Menni^re. — Sole fillets dipped in flour and cooked in butter, flavoured with lemon juice, and brown butter (beurre noisette) and herbs poured over. — ^ la Messallne. — Fillets of soles poached in champagne, dressed, and sauced over with tomato sauce, flavoured with Italian pimientos ; garnished with artichoke bottoms. — i la Minute. — Similar to " Sole a la Menniere." — ^ la Mirabeau. — Poached sole fillets, sauced over with tarragon-flavoured anchovy sauce, and garnished with anchovy fillets. — d la Montgolfier. — Cooked in white wine sauce, and garnished with slices of lobster and mushroom heads, truffles, and fleurons. — k\^ Montpensier, — Fillets of sole rolled round crayfish, and poached ; dressed on a fish farce border, centre filled with ragout of lobster, truffles, and mushrooms ; sauce cardinal, and fleurons as garnish, — 4 la Montreuil. — Fillets of soles cooked in white wine, dressed in a circle, with fried potato balls in centre ; fillets sauced over with veloute sauce, enriched with fish essence. — & la Mornay. — Baked fillets of soles, dressed on dish with rich white sauce and grated cheese ; browned under salamander. — ^ la Nantua. — Fillets of soles poached in white wine, dressed on rice or semolina border, and sauced over with allemande sauce flavoured with crayfish butter, centre filled with prawn or crayfish tails, heated up in allemande sauce. — ^ la NiQoise. — Dipped in oil and grilled ; garnished with sliced tomatoes, olives, and capers. — & la Normande. — Sole fillets poached, with ijormande sauce, garnished with mussels and oysters, truffles, and small fried smelts. 114 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Filets de Soles i la Norveglenne (cold).— Rolls or rings of fillets of sole, poached ; when cold, jellied, and filled with lobster puree, placed in halves of tomatoes and suitably garnished ; served with salade norge. — i 1 'Orlentale.— Dome shape mould, lined with fillets of sole, decorated with' truflie slices, etc. ; interior filled with white fish farce, steamed, garnished with fleurons, prawns, and truffles ; white wine sauce. — i rOrl^ans. — Poached sole fillets or whole Bole, sauced over with three sauces — bfechamel, green herb, and pink shrimp or lobster. — & I 'Orly.— Fried fillets of soles with tomato sauce and fried parsley.' — i la Pagani. — A dish similar to sole au vin blanc, finished with a rich veloute ; garnished with mussels, champignons, and grated cheese, browned. — i la Plimontaise. — Fillets of soles with tomato sauce ; garnished with polenta croutons and slices of truffles. — & la Polignac. — Sole fillets, with white wine sauce, finely shredded champignons, and tarragon leaves. — ^ la Pompadour.— Sole fillets with white wine sauce, dice shapes of tomatoes and truffles. — ^ la Rachel. — Sole fillets with shrimp or prawn sauce, garnished with truffle slices. — en Ramequin. — Rings of pastry filled with layer of white sauce, fillets of soles, soubise pur6e and grated cheese, etc., baked in sharp oven. — 4 la R6gence (cold). — Stuffed rolled fillets of sole, masked in aspic, dished up in fprm of border, each fillet being decorated with truffles and cream, salad in centre. — & la Rouennalse. — Farced fillets of soles, folded, and poached ; served with momay sauce, and garnished with mussels. — 4 la Royale. — Rolled fillets of sofes, stuffed with minced truffles and champignons and bechamel sauce ; steamed in oven ; served with hot mousseline or hoUandaise sauce. — 4 la Salisbury. — Lobster shells filled with sole and lobster forcemeat and veloute sauce, with folded fillets of soles on top of each ; steamed in oven ; dressed on rice border ; garnished with button mushrooms. — & la S^zet. — Fillets of soles stewed in bechamel and tomato sauce, flavoured with anchovy butter ; gar- nished with small lobster croquettes, truffles, anchovy fillets, and mushroom heads. — en ScuHli. — Fillets of soles set in dish, covered with mornay sauce and beaten egg-whites, and baked. THE FISH COURSE. 115 Filets de Soles k la Su^tone. — Fillets of soles, folded, and poached In the oven with butter and white wine ; sauced over with normande sauce, flavoured with pounded pistachio Icernels ; garnished with small shells of prawns or shrimps, and pistachios. — & la Sully. — Fillets of soles egged and crumbed, slightly- fried in butter,' dressed with mushroom head on each fillet, sauced over with bSarnaise, and around with anchovy sauce. — i la TrouvlUe. — Folded fillets, seasoned, broiled in saute pan with white wine and mushroom liquor, dressed with mushrooms, oysters, fresh breadcrumbs, and white sauce ; surface brdwned in oven. — d la Valfery. — Rolled fillets of sole with white wine sauce, and champignons as garnish, breaded, and browned in oven. — 4 la Vendome. — Poached rolled fillets of sole, dressed on spaghetti border, and sauced over with nautua sauce. — i la V£nitienne. — Folded fillets of soles poached in white wine, butter, and parsley ; dressed in circle, centre garnished with mushroom heads, sauced with hoUandaise sauce. — a la Victoria. — Folded fillets of soles cooked with a little white wine, dressed on border of mashed potatoes, previously browned in oven ; sauced over with white wine sauce ; garnished with chopped truffle and tongue and small fleurons of puff paste. — ^ la Xavier. — Baked fillets of soles tied in knots, dressed on a border of whiting forcemeat, covered with hot Xavier sauce ; liquid meat glaze sprinkled over surface. — en Zephires (cold). — Cold fillets of sole set in aspic cream in small zephyr moulds. Chaudfroid de Filets de Soles t la Capuelne (cold). — Stuffed and rolled fillets of sole dressed on pink rice. border, decorated with prawns, truffles, etc. ; seasoned salad in centre. Coquilles de Filets de Soles t la Favorite. — Cockle-shell moulds filled with cooked fillets of sole and lobster meat, coated with mayonnaise, decorated with truffle and hard-boiled white of egg. Escalopes de Soles k la Vernon (Scallops of Soles, Vernon style). — Braised fillets of soles dressed on rice ; garnished with stewed oysters and mussels ; rich white sauce Hdtelets de Sole d la Villeroi. — Rolled sole fillets stuffed with forcemeat, placed on silver skewers, seasoned, crumbed, and baked in the saute pan ; served with a richly buttered tomato sauce. n6 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Pauplettes de Sole A r Alexandra.— Fillets of soles spread with lobster farce and rolled into paupiettes ; poached in sauterne and fish stock ; garnished with truffles, anchovy butter, and new potatoes tossed in butter ; sauce, cardinal. — & la Bismarck. — Fillets of soles soaked in marinade, spread with fish farce and chopped truffles, and rolled up ; poached in white wine ; dressed on a border of potato puree, sauced over with sauce marguery, sprinkled with grated parmesan, and browned in sharp oven. — ik TEmpereur. — Braised fillets of soles, rolled and stufEed with tnrbot farce, dressed in cassolettes, sauced over with bechamel cream sauce, flavoured with paprika, anchovy essence ; tops sprinkled with finely chopped truffle and horseradish. — ^ la St. Michel. — Rolled fillets of soles stuffed with foie- gras farce and poached, dressed on a border of green peas, with ragout of prawns in centre ; sauce suprlme. — & la NiQOlse. — Baked rolled fillets of soles, stuffed with fish farce, herbs, and anchovy paste ; sauced over with a rich tomato pur^e containing parmesan cheese ; garnished with small gherkins, sprinkled with grated cheese, and browned in oven. — de Filets de Soles h la Richelieu. — Baked rolled fillets of soles stuffed with whiting forcemeat, dressed on croutes spread with fish farce, with mushroom head on each ; sauced over with cardinal sauce, enriched with egg-yolk ; a star of truffle placed on centre of each fiUet. Soles en souchet (Souchet of Soles). — Boiled soles with finely cut strips of carrot and turnips and chopped parsley. — ^ la Vatel. — Baked soles, boned and stuffed, with whiting forcemeat, cooked in white wine and mush- room liquor ; masked over with white wine sauce ; garnished with truffles, gherkins, cocks' combs, and mushrooms. — i la Vllleroise. — Soles cooked in cyder and mushroom liquor, garnished with cubes of plain boiled potatoes. Stoudines de Polssons ^ la Russe (cold). — Fillets of soles and small fillets of salmon poached and dressed alternately in crown shape, masked with aspic, and served with iced horseradish sauce. Turban de Filets de Soles a la Montpeller (cold).— Cold fillets of soles set in turban or border mould, with green herb chaudfroid sauce, aspic, etc. ; gainished with white of egg and truffle ; centre filled with dressed salad, etc. ' THE FISH COURSE. 117 Timbale de Filets de Soles i, la Savoy. — Poached fillets of soles, fiuished in rich white wine sauce, mixed with truffle, macaroni, and crayfish, served in pastry crust made of pdte A foncer. Sterlet h la Russe. — Broiled sterlet with braised button onions, small ball-shaped fried potatoes, and anchovy sauce. — au bleu. — Boiled sterlet. Tanche au bleu. — Boiled tench. — grlUde au beurre d'Anchois. — Grilled tench with anchovy butter. — it la Maitre d'Hdtel.— Broiled tench with parsley butter. Truite—Trout. Truite saurnonee — Salmon Trout. Truite de Hiviire — River Trout. Truite au bleu. — Trout boiled in water and white wine flavoured with herbs. — au beurre d'Anehols. — Broiled trout with anchovy butter. — t la Cambacer^s. — Baked trout, garnished with slices of truffles, heads of mushrooms, stuffed olives and fleurons ; brown genoise fish sauce. — au Chablis. — Braised river trout (mirepoix and chablis), garnished with olive-sha,ped potatoes, plain boiled, and parsley ; sauce noisette. (See Sauces.) — 4 la Chambord. — Baked trout with claret sauce, and chambord garnishing. — ^ la Chrlstiania. — Boned trout stuffed with fish farce and hard-boiled egg slices, rolled up, cooked in stock and milk ; skinned when cold, and masked with aspic jelly and mayonnaise ; garnished with caviare canapees, etc. — & la Divonnalse. — Braised river trout, breaded, sauced over with sauce genoise ; garnished with braised button onions and mushroom heads — tarcle. — Stuffed trout, baked or au gratin, marinifire sauce. — frlte. — Fried trout. — d la Gavarnie. — Small river trout, spread over with parsley butter (maitre de hotel), then wrapped in oiled paper and baked in oven. Garnished with potatoes. ii8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. : . Trulte d la Helvetia. — Fillets of trout rolled round farce cubes orquenellei and poached, sauced with bechamel enriched with lobster butter. Star of trufiSe on top of each fillet. — ^ la Hoteliere. — Baked trout in butter, with duxelle puree, and maitre d'hotel butter, and lemon garnish. — & la Maitre d'HStel. — Broiled trout with parsley butter. — ^ la Malvolsle (cold). — Boiled trout masked with aspic mayonnaise ; garnished with cucumber balls ; served with mayonnaise flavoured with cucumber pur6e. — & la Mantone. — Boned trout stuffed with truffle farce, braised on herb and mushroom mirepoix, and served with sauce Italienne. — Maritime (cold). — Soused or pickled trout, masked with half-set savoury jelly, (aspit). — & la Meuniere. — Braised' trout served with brown butter (buerre noisette), breadcrumbs, and chopped parsley. — & la Moutgolfler. — River trout, boned and stuffed with whiting farce mixed with chopped truffles, poached in oven (fumet de poisson), dressed with garnish of lobster cut in dice, and mushroom heads ; sauce au vin blanc (white wine saUce). — & la Hansen (cold). — Cold trout masked with finely cut vegetable, brunoise, and aspic, dressed on a shape of aspic ; garnished with small tomato-flavoured tim- bales and cucumber ; served with frozen horseradish sauce and semi-set aspic mixed with brunoise. — aux petlts pois. — Broiled trout with green peas. — & la Royal. — Braised trout, with white wine sauce, garnished with small fish quenelles, champignons, truffles, and glazed croutons. — saumon6e boullUe. — Boiled salmon trout. — saumon^e t la Norvigienne (cold). — Boiled salmon trout dressed on rice socle, masked with mayonnaise and aspic ; garnished with tarragon and chervil leaves, cucumber rind and slices, and chilli ; served with cold horseradish sauce. — saumon6e k la Rothschild (cold). — Baked stuffed salmon trout masked cold with madfere sauce (chaud- froid), decorated with trufSe's, blocks of set aspic, cucumber, lemon, and parsley. — d la Vaucluse. — Same as " Meunidre," using Provence oil in place of butter. — ^ la Vinaigrette (cold). — Cold boiled trout, served with vinegar and oil dressing, chopped gherkins, capers, and parsley. THE FISH COURSE. 119 FUets de Trulte au Vin blane. — Broiled fillets of trout, with white wine sauce. — £t la Mayonnaise (cold). — Cold fillets of trout, in border of aspic and mayonnaise, centre filled with dressed salad. — frites i la Milanaise. — Fillets of trout marinaded in oil, etc., then rolled in breadcrumbs and grated cheese, then in egg and chopped parsley, and fried in oil ; served with Italian sauce. — ^ la Mirabeau. — Braised fillets of trout with mirabeau sauce. — au vin rouge. — Fillets of trout poached in court- bouillon, and sauced with bordelaise (red wine sauce). — tla Tomate. — Fried fillets of trOut with tomato sauce. Mousseline de Trulte i la Tosca. — Quenelles of trout (niousseline farce) poached, garnished with slice of lobster and truffle ; sauce mornay. Tron(!ons de truite h la Grfique. — Slices of large trout, or salmon- trout, cooked in " court-bouillon," skimmed, and masked with fish aspic, centre of each filled with cold fish farce (cooked) ; garnished with hard-boiled egg slices, truffles, and small salad. Turbot — Turbot. Turbotin— Foung Turbot. Turbot a rAmlral.— Slices of turbot poached in fish stock with sauteme, garnished with groups of oysters, mussels, mushrooms, and truffles, also crayfish bouchees ; sauce normande. — boulUi. — Boiled turbot. — & la Cambac6res. — Braised turbot with velbut6 sauce, garnished with celery strips, crayfish croquettes, and mussels. — ^ la Daumont. — Same as " i. I'Amiral," but garnished with fish quenelles, fried fish roe, prawns, and mush- rooms, also fish potatoes ; sauce nantua. — sauce aux Crevettes. — Boiled turbot with shrimp sauce. — sauce Homard. — Boiled turbot with lobster sauce. — & la Hongroise. — Boiled slices of turbot, dished, and sauced over with paprika or Hongroise sauce, and browned in oven, garnished with Parisian potatoes. — sauce aux Huttres. — Boiled turbot with oyster sauce. — ik la ProveUQale. — Small whole turbot (or thick slices) cooked in veloute sauce, white wine, white stock, chopped shallots, and bouquet garni ; dished up with a rich white herb sauce, flavoured with anchovy essence, chopped parsley, and capers. — sauce aux oeufs. — Boiled turbot with egg sauce. — sauce aux Anchols. — Boiled turbot and anchovy saupe. 120 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Turbot A, la Reyni4re. — Stewed turbot, flaked, and served in shells, coated with shrimp sauce. — bouilli ti la Victoria. — Boiled turbot, garnished with ball- shaped lobster croquettes, prawns, and parsley; served with Victoria sauce. — i la Vatel.— Boned turbot, stuffed with lobster farce, grilled or braised, and served with white wine sauce and crayfish garnish. Escalopes de Turbot i la Daupblne. — Fillets or escallops of turbot, poached, and covered with fisti farce, baked, and dressed in centre of decorated border of potato pur6e, sauced over with prawn or crayfish sauce, and garnished with small fish quenelles. Filets de Turbot frits. — Fried fillets of turbot. — i la Boltel. — Turbot fillet with white wine sauce, and champignons, browned in oven. — ^ la CarSme. — Slices of turbot, garnished with slices of trufiies, mushrooms, halves of oysters, dressed on border of whiting forcemeat, with garniture and picked prawns in centre ; sauced over with rich cardinal sauce. — 4 la Cussy. — Fillets of turbot, poached in white wine, mushroom liquor, etc. ; garnished with mushrooms, cocks' kernels, and quenelles, covered with allemande and tomato sauces (blended) ; decorated with slices of lemon and fleurons. ■ — ft la Duchesse. — Fillets of turbot, poached, and ranged on potato border (Duchesse), sauced over with cream sauce, and garnished with truffles. — ft la Florentine. — Saut^ed fillets of turbot, covered with layer of spinach puree and bechamel sauce, mixed with grated cheese, then sprinkled with breadcrumbs, grated cheese, and oiled butter, and baked. — ft la Maltre d'H6tel.— Broiled fillets of turbot with parsley butter. — ft la Salamandre. — Poached fillets of turbot, dished up in row on buttered dish, covered with veloute or rich bechamel sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, etc., and browned under salamander. — au vln blanc— Poached or broiled fillets of turbot, with white wme sauce. Fleurettes de Turbot ft la HoUandalse (cold).— Small flat dariole shapes of cooked turbot set with mayonnaise cream, dressed on bed of salad or little blocks of aspic. SuprSme de Turbot ft la Royale.— Fillets of turbot, poached in white wine, etc., dressed on gratiu dish, covered with rich white fish sauce, sprinkled with grated Swiss cheese and butter, and browned in the oven. SAUCES. 121 Timbales de Turbot & la Russe. — Small timbale shapes of cooked flakes of turbot, garnished with prawns, parsley, etc., dressed round a rice shape. Turbotin k la Lusslnoise.— Small young turbot filleted and steeped in marinade, then cooked in an onion mire- poix ; upon this a light layer of fish farce is placed, and then finished in the oven ; sauce aux champignons is poured over the top before serving ; served in casserole. Croquettes de Polsson. — Cutlet shapes of mixture com- posed of cold fish, bdchamel sauce, anchovy essence, 6gg-yolk, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs or panu- rette, and fried in deep fat. Entrees de Polsson froid Cold dressed fish entries ; suitable also as luncheon, buffet, cold collation, and ball supper dishes. Pat§ de Poisson & rAm^rieaine (American Fish Pie). — Pie crust filled with layers of mashed potatoes, cooked turbot, cod or haddock, flaked ; white sauce and grated cheese ,■' surface egged and sprinkled over with grated cheese, and baked in oven. — a la Marini^re. — French raised pie filled with twisted fillets of sole, pieces of eel, mushroom heads, prawn tails, button onions, anchovy sauce flavoured with claret, and baked. Timbales de Poisson A, la Marigny. — Small dariole moulds lined with fish farce, centre filled with prawn tails, herring roes, and trufile, made up as salpicon ; sauce hollandaise with crayfish butter ; served hot. Vol-au-Vent h la Chambord. — Round or oval puff paste crust (vol-au-vent) filled with crayfish tails, truffles, mushrooms, small fish quenelles, bearded oysters, and genoise sauce. PART V. SAUCES. The importance of sauce in cookery is so well known that I need not offer any excuse for including the definitions of all the standard sauces and the most popular of other liquid seasonings in this book. In almost every instance some kind of sauce is named along with, or as an ingredient in, the preparation of dishes. Again, the blending of two or more sauces is frequently recommended, so that we have given the names of these. 122 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. together with a condensed description of the kinds most frequently required. It is needless to add that the blend- ing of a sauce, its flavour and colovir, has much to do with the success of any dish with which it is served, whilst the harmonising effect, or the want of it, may make or spoil a, dish listed on a menu. Sauce Albert. — AUemande sauce with finely chopped shallots reduced in tarragon vinegar, grated horse- radish, cream, yolks of eggs, and chopped parsley. — Albut^ra. — Rich white sauce (supreme) enriched with meat extract or glaze. — AUemande (German). — A white sauce made from veal stock, thickened with white roux, cream, and yolks of eggs, flavoured with nutmeg and lemon juice. — Am^rlcalne (American). — Tomato sauce blended with lobster butter (whisked in). — Amiral (Admiral). — A white sauce, with chopped capers, parsley, lemon rind and juice, and anchovy paste to flavour.- — Anchols (Anchovy). — A fish sauce made with flour, butter, fish stock, milk, and anchovy essence. — Andalouse (cold). — Mayonnaise, blended with tomato pulp and mixed with finely cut red sweet peppers. — Aromate (Aromatic). — White sauce, blended richly with aromatic herb puree. — AuTore (Aurora). — Bechamel sauce, cream, red pepper, tarragon, and shallot, flavoured with lobster butter to give it a reddish tint. — Avignonnaise. — Bechamel sauce, yolks of eggs, grated parmesan cheese, and chopped parsley, flavoured with shallots and garlic. — Ayola. — A mayonnaise flavoured with crushed garlic and lemon juice. — Ayoii, Aioii (cold). — Mayonnaise made with hard- boiled egg-yolks, flavoured with garlic, lemon juice, and cayenne. — B&rtaide Anglalse. — English melted butter sauce flavoured with lemon juice. — Bartarde (cold). — Bearnaise, flavoured with fish essence (stock), enriched with tomato pur6e and anchovy butter. — Bavaroise. — HoUaudaise (Dutch) sauce, enriched with whipped cream and crayfish butter. — B6arnalse. — Consists of fresh butter, yolks of eggs, chopped shallots or onion, tatragon, parsley, a pinch of cayenne, and lemon juice. SA UCES. 123 Sauce B^arnaise Brune. — Same as " Beamaise," with the addition of meat glaze to give it a brown colour. — B^arnaise-Tomate. — Same as "Beamaise," adding tomato puree in place of meat glaze. — Beauharnals. — Beamaise sauce, enriched with tarragon pur6e. — B6chamelt(Foundation^Sauce). — ^Made with milk or milkj, aiid stock, flour, and butter (white roux), flavoured with pepper, nutmeg, and bay-leaf. — Beefsteak. — A light brown sauce made of chopped onion, parsley, meat glaze, and butter, flavoured with sherry and lemon juice. — B^rcy. — Thin demi-glace with chopped shallots reduced in white wine, enriched with fresh butter, chopped parsley, and lemon juice. — Beurre (au). — Melted butter sauce. — Beurre Crimeuse. — Creamed butter sauce ; beaten egg- yolks and butter stirred into boiling stock. — Beurre Nolr (Black Butter). — A thin brown sauce made with nut-brown butter, flavoured with tarragon vinegar and anchovy essence. — Beurre Noisette (au), — Same as " Beurre Noir," with butter only slightly brown. — Bigarade. — Demi-glace sauce with shreds of orange rind, flavoured with orange juice and red-currant jelly. — Blanche. — White sauce made with white roux, half stock and milk, finished with butter and lemon juice. — Blanquette. — AUemande (white) sauce, enriched with an extra quantity of cream. — Boh^mienne (Bohemian). — ^A white sauce made with fresh breadcrumbs, white stock, butter, and grated horseradish, seasoned with pepper and salt. — Bonne Femme. — A white sauce made with finely chopped onion and shallots, blended in butter and cooked m fish stock, thickened with egg-yolks and whipped cream, seasoned and flavoured with lemon juice. — Bonnefoy. — A light bordelaise sauce, into which fresh butter, chopped parsley, and beef marrow are incorporated. — Bordelaise (Bordelaise). — A brown sauce, with reduc- tions of red wine, chopped parsley, tarragon, and shalots. — Bouillabaisse.— Tomato sauce, enriched with fish essence, flavoured with garlic, and finished with fresh butter. — Bourguignonne (Burgundy). — Espagnole sauce, finely jninced onions reduced in Burgundy wine, flavoured with thyme, bay-leaf, cloves, and mace. 124 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Bread Sauce. — Milk, flavoured with onion and clove, and thickened with fresh breadcrumbs. Sauce Bressolse. — Reduced espagnol, flavoured with shallots and orange juice, enriched with puree of chicken liver. — Bretonne (Britanny), — Veloutfe sauce with finely-cut wisps of celery, leek, and truffles. — Broglle. — Espagnole, blended with ham, reduced v/ith sherry and mushroom liquor, enriched with fresh butter. — Bulgare. — Cold tomato sauce, blended with finely- shredded cooked celery. — Byron. — Demi-glace sauce, with a reduction of claret and chopped Jiuffles. — Cambridge (cold). — Mayonnaise, mixed with parsley puree, capers, and anchovy paste, flavoured with mustard. — Canop6re.^-A hot fish sauce made with fish, court- bouillon, and blond roux, enriched with crayfish butter. — Canotlere. — White fish sauce with white wine flavour, enriched with fresh butter, seasoned with cayenne. — CSpres (Caper). — A white sauce with capers. — C&pres Brune (Brown Caper Sauce). — ^A brown sauce with capers, seasoned with black pepper and nutmeg. — Cap£tienne. — White wine sauce with tomato puree, made B6arnaise style. — Cardinal. — White fish sauce mixed with lobster coral or spawn, flavoured with essence of anchovies and tarragon vinegar. — Carlet. — A white cream-like sauce made with fish stock, white wine, butter, flour, and egg-yolks, seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sugar. — Casteiaine (Castillane). — Demi-glace, with pimiento (Spanish pepper) and finely-chopped ham, flavoured with lemon juice. — Cavalier. — Thin brown sauce, blended with tomato puree, flavoured with tarragon vinegar and French mustard, mixed with finely chopped chutney, gherkins, and capers. — Cazanova. — A cold fish or salad sauce, composed of mayonnaise, finely-shredded truffles, and whites of hard-boiled eggs, flavoured with garlic. — C616rle (Celery). — A white sauce, with cooked chopped celery ; served with boiled poultry. — Champagne. — Thin brown sauce, reduced with cham- pagne and ham essence. — Champignons (Mushrooms). — Velout6 and mushroom liquor, or demi-glace and sliced mushrooms. SAUCES. 125 Sauce ChantlUy. — Well reduced bechamel blended with whipped cream. — Cbantilly (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce with whipped cream, flavoured with grated horseradish. — Chasseur (Huntsman). — Espagnole sauce, with chopped shallots, mushrooms, and parsley, flavoured with pepper, lemon juice, and game essence. — Chateaubriand. — Rich brown sauce made with meat glaze, espagnole sauce, fresh butter, white wine, lemon juice, and chopped parsley, flavoured with cayenne pepper and red currant jelly. — Chaudfrold. — Masking or coating sauce, made of well- reduced white, fawn, cream, green, red, or brown sauce, blended with sufficient dissolved gelatine or aspic to set when cold. — Chevreuil (Venison). — A brown sauce, reduced with claret, port wine, and thinly sliced gherkins, seasoned with red pepper. — Chicory. — Veloute sauce, blended with green herb butter (fines herbes), — Chivry. — Veloute sauce with infusion of chablis tarra- gon, chervil, parsley, and chives, finished with green herb butter. — Choron. Bearnaise sauce, blended with tomato puree. — Citron au (Lemon). — HoUandaise sauce with finely- grated lemon rind added. — Colbert.— Thin brown fish sauce, enriched with butter and glaze, finely chopped herbs, and lemon juice. , — Comtesse. — White wine sauce, enriched with fish essence and truffle puree. — Concombre (Cucumber). — B6chamel or white cream sauce, blended with cucumber puree. — Cordolier. — Maddre sauce, enriched with truffle and foie-gras puree. — Cornichon (Gherkin). — A brown sharp sauce, like poivrade, with finely chopped gherkins. — Crapaudine. — Espagnole, reduced with veal stock, vinegar, shallots, and bouquet garni, enriched with fi-esh butter. — Creme (Cream). — Bechamel sauce enriched with fresh cream. — Creole. — Tomato sauce, blended with finely chopped shallots reduced in white wine, mixed with thin strips of pimiento. — Crevettes. (Shrimp). — Pink fish sauce with picked shrimps. 126 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Cumberland. — Thin brown sauce, witji meat glazed orange juice, red-currant jelly, lemon juice, and port wine, fine shreds of orange rind, seasoned with mus- tard, paprika, and ginger. — Curry (Currie). — A pale brown or fawn coloured sauce made with veloutfe gravy, finely chopped onion fried in butter, and curry powder, well reduced and tamined. — Cussy.— Espagnole sauce, blended with fumet of pigeon, reduced with Sherry. — Czarlne.^Demi-glace sauce with chopped gherkins, capers, and bleached raisins. — Danolse (Danish). — White wine sauce flavoured with grated cheese, anchovy cream, and lobster butter. — Daumont. — Fish sauce made like HoUandaise, using oyster liqueur, egg-yolks, lemon juice, with sliced oysters, mushrooms, and truffles. — Demi-Deull. — VeIout6 sauce, mixed with finely chopped truffles. — Demidoff. — MadSre sauce with sliced truffles. — Deml-glace (Half-glaze). — Espagnole reduced with veal stock or gravy of light consistency. — Diable (Devilled).— Chopped shallots blended in butter and reduced in vinegar, diluted with demi-glace and red wine, reduced and highly seasoned with Worcester sauce, cayenne, etc. — Diane. — Poivrade sauce, enriched with cream. — Digestive. — Soubise sauce, blended with apple and tomato pur6e, and flavoured with curry paste and French mustard. — Diplomato. — B6chamel sauce blended with lobster butter and anchovy essence. — Duchesse. — B6chamel, enriched with fresh butter, with finely chopped ox-tongue and mushrooms. — Ducl6r6 or DugI6r6.— Tomato sauce blended with bechamel and tish essence, finished with fresh butter and chopped parsley. — Duxelle — Brown sauce enriched with tomato puree and meat glaze, chopped mushrooms, truffles, ham, blended shallots and parsley, fliavoured with lemon juice. — Echalote (Shallot).— Thin brown gravy sauce, with finely chopped shallots and parsley blended in butter, flavoured with shallot vinegar or finely chopped shallots mixed with vinegar, and lemon juice and seasoning ; served with oysters. — Ecossalse (Scotch) — Bfechamel sauce mixed with finely chopped hard-boiled white and yolk of egg. SAUCES. 127 Sauce Ecrevisses (Crayfish). — White cream sauce mixed with crayfish butter. • — Epicurlenne. — (Cold). — ^Mayonnaise cream mixed with cucumber pur^e, aspic, chopped gherkins and chutney, served cold. — Epicurienne (Hot).— White sauce acidulated with vinegar, reduced with cayenne pods and catchup. — Espagnole (Foundation Sauce). — A brown sauce made with brown roux, mirepoix of vegetables, and ham or bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, meat stock, wine, and seasoning. — Estragon (Tarragon). — Demi-glace reduced with white wine and tarragon vinegar, with finely chopped blanched tarragon leaves. — Etretat. — AUemande sauce or veloute flavoured with white fish essence and veiry little tomato puree. — Filix. — Brown sauce, flavoured with lemon j uice and crayfish essence, finished with butter. — FenouU (Fennel). — A white sauce, with finely chopped fennel, flavoured with lemon juice; served with boiled fish. — Fermldre (Farmhouse). — Brown sauce, with finely chopped ham, and onion puree, served with game. ■ — Financidre. — Brown mad^re sauce reduced with chicken essence, trufiie, and mushroom liquor. — Fines Herbes. — A white or brown sauce, with finely chopped herbs (parsley, tarragon, and chervil) ; chopped shallots blended in butter are sometimes added. — Flamande (Flemish). — A white sauce, with egg-yolks, flavoured with mustard. — Fleurette. — Rich white cream sauce enriched with chicken essence, — Foyot. — BSarnaise sauce, enriched with meat glaze. — Franpaise (French). — Bearnaise sauce with tomato pur6e and fish essence flavour. — Francois. — Tomato sauce reduced with white wine, with chopped mushrooms finished with butter. — Garibaldi. — A brown sauce, flavoured with crushed garlic, capers, curry, anchovy paste, and mustard ; served with fish or meat. — Gastronome. — Brown sauce, espagnole or demi-glace, reduced with champagne, seasoned with cayenne. — G6n6TaIe. — A brown savoury sauce flavoured with lemon juice, tarragon vinegar, orange peel finely chopped, garlic, and sherry. — Genivoise (Geneva), — ^Madfere sauce reduced with fish essence, flavoured with garlic and anchovy essence. 128 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce G^noise (Genoese). — Demi-glace or espagnoie- reduced with fish stock and red wine, flavoured with anchovy essence, parsley, and mushrooms. — G^noise (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with bechamel, flavoured with pounded pignolis or almonds, also green herb pur6e. — Gibler (Game). — A brown sauce flavoured with essence of game. — Gloucester (cold). — ^Mayonnaise cream mixed with chopped tarragon, flavoured with mustard and chilU vinegar ; served with fish or meat salads. — Godard. — Espagnoie or demi-glace, reduced with chablis, mixed with chopped ham and champignons. — Gooseberry (groseille verte). — Gooseberry puree,blended with syrup, with or without cream, served with grilled mackerel or roast goose. — Gourmet. — A brown fish sauce mixed with lobster butter, chopped prawns, and truffles. — Grand Venear. — Espagnoie reduced with blood of game, hare, etc., highly spiced with pepper, — Granville. — White wine sauce mixed with chopped mushrooms, shrimps, and truffles. — Gratln. — White wine sauce, blended with demi-glace, mixed with dropped champignons (Duxelle). — Gribiche. — Mayonnaise mixed with mustard and finely chopped herbs, and hard white of egg. — Hachie, — Espagnoie and tomato sauce with shallot and vinegar reduction. — Hachls. — Brown sauce, with chopped mushrooms, capers, and gherkins. — H&VTOise. — White wine sauce reduced with liquor of mussels. — Hessoise. — Cold horseradish sauce made with sour cream, grated horseradish, and fresh breadcrumbs, seasoned with sugar and salt ; served with roast beef or steaks. — HoUandalse (Dutch). — A rich fish sauce prepared with butter, yolks of eggs, tarragon vinegar, lemon juice, and mignonette pepper. — HoIIandaise Verte. — HoUandaise sauce mixed with parsley leaves, blanched and pounded. — Holstein. — Bechamel sauce reduced with fish stock and white wine, thickened with egg-yolks, and flavoured with nutmeg. — Homard (Lobster). — Bechamel, with chopped lobster meat, finished with lobster butter. — Hongroise (Hungarian). — Veloutfe or allemande sauce mixed with sour cream, and highly seasoned with paprika. SAUCES. 129 Sauce Horly. — A supreme (rich white) sauce blended with tomato puree, meat extract or glaze, and butter. — Horseradish (Raifort). — Cold cream sauce with grated horseradish, mustard, and vinegar, or hot white sauce blended with grated horseradish and mustard. — Huitres (Oyster). — B6chamel, with oysters,' bearded and cut in four, egg-yolks and lemon juice. — Hflre de Sangller (Boar's Head). — A cold sauce pre- pared with bitter orange juice and finely chopped rind, sugar, red-currant jelly, port wine, and prepared mustard, seasoned with black pepper. A useful stock sauce. — Hussarde. — Espagnole sauce and veal stock reduced, mixed with onion and tomato purees, flavoured with grated horseradish. — Impfratlice. — ^AUemande or veloute sauce enriched with chicken and truffle essence, finished with cream. — Indienne (Indian). — A brown sauce flavoured with curry powder or paste. — • Itallenne (Italian). — Espagnole sauce blended with tomato puree, chopped mushrooms, white wine, and chopped shaltots fried in oil ; seasoned with pepper, lemon juice, and nutmeg. — Ivoire. — Rich white sauce with chicken essence and cream finish. — Jambon (Ham). — A brown sauce, with finely shredded ham, chopped chives, shallots, and parsley, flavoured with lemon juice and paprika or krone pepper. — Joinville. — A white fish sauce enriched with yolks of eggs, fresh butter, and lobster coral ; flavoured with lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. — Juliette. — Supreme sauce with tarragon and chervil flavour. Jus ^ I'Estragon. — Gravy sauce with tarragon flavour. Jus TomatS-^Gravy sauce with tomato flavour. Sauce Kari, — Indian curry sauce. White or brown sauce with curry flavour. — • Laguipiere. — Melted butter sauce with fish essence and lemon juice. > — Lavalliere. — Demi-glace sauce with game fumet (es- sence), blended with sour cream, mixed with finely shredded truffles and (mushrooms. — Livonienne. — Dissolved meat glaze, blended with sour cream and fennel puree, finished with butter. — Llvournaise. — A cold sauce prejpared with anchovy fillets, yolks of eggs, sweet oil, vinegar, chopped Darslev. nenner. anH rm+mpcr r^o PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Lyonnalse (Lyons sauce). — A kind of tomato sauce with minced Spanish onions (previously fried in butter), flavoured with meat glaze and lemon juice ; also made with bechamel foundation. — Madere (Madeira).— ^A brown sauce composed of demi- glace sauce, and tomato puree, Madeira wine. — Maillet. — Madere sauce mixed witli hard egg-yolks, sieved and blended shallots, cayenne seasoning. — Malntenon. — White onion puree thickened with egg- yolks and veloute sauce. — Maitre d 'Hotel (Hotel-keeper). — A white sauce with butter, cream, and chopped parsley. — Malaga (Port Wine). — A brown sauce prepared with meat glaze, port wine, and lemon juice, flavoured with shallots and cayenne. — Maltaise. — ^Veloute sauce with chopped parsley, shallots. and mushrooms, diluted with sherry wine, flavoured with lemon j nice and finely shredded orange peel. — Marchand de Vin (Wine merchant). — Demi-glace, reduced with fried shallots, cUiret, and meat glaze. — Itlarichale. — Allemande or veloute sauce mixed with champignon pur6e. — Marguiry. — White fish sauce, blended with oyster puree, and finished with cream. — Marigny, — Demi-glace sauce with tomato purfee and mushroom liquor, wliite wine reduction. — Marinldre. — White wine sauce, with finely chopped herbs, shallots, and fish essence. — Marseillaise. — HoUandaise sauce blended with tomato ' puree — Matelote (blanche.) — A white fish sauce, with mush- room juice, white wine, and button mushrooms, flavoured with savoury herbs. — Matelote (brune). — A red wine sauce reduced with fish essence, mushroom liquor, and anchovy essence. — Matlgnon, — Ham essence reduced witli Madere sauce blended with port wine, and mixed with peeled muscate grapes, paprika seasoning. — Maximiltan.— Tartare sauce, with tomato pulp and finely chopped tarragon leaves to flavour. — Mayonnaise. — A cold sauce composed of yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, salad oil, and vinegar ; a little cold bechamel sauce or cream is sometimes added as foundation. — Mayonnaise collie.— Mayonnaise sauce, fortified with liquified gelatine or aspic, used for coating or masking. SAUCES. 131 Sauce Midicis. — Beamaise, flavoured with tomato puree and very little red wine. — Mel&a.^Chopped shallots cooked in chabUs, reduced in tomato sauce, and thickened with egg-yolks, finished like hollandaise. — Menthe (Mint). — Consists of vinegar, chopped green mint leaves, and moist sugar to flavour. — Mlrabeau.— Veloute sauce with pounded garlic, chopped parsley, lemon juice, and a liaison of butter and meat extract. — Miroton. — Demi-glace, blended with finely minced, blanched, and fried onions, tomato sauce, vinegar and mustard to flavour. — Moelle (Beef Marrow). — Espagnole sauce flavoured with fried shallot, mixed with blanched beef marrow cut in thin slices, chopped parsley, vinegar and cayenne to taste. — Morley. — Velout6 sauce, enriched with mushroom essence and cream. — Mornay. — Bechamel, enriched with egg-yolks and grated cheese. — Mosfovlte. — Poivrade or pepper sauce mixed with sour cream, flavoured with juniper berries. — Moules (Mussels). — Hollandaise sauce, with cooked mussels. — Mousseline. — A very light, froth-like sauce, holland- aise whisked with double cream. Other moussehne sauces are made with tomato or spinach foundations. — Mousseuse. — Hollandaise sauce, enriched with whipped cream. — Moutarde (Mustard). — Melted butter or bechamel sauce, mixed with prepared mustard. — Nantua. — Bechamel, reduced with fish essence, finished with crayfish butter and cream. — Napolitaine. — A brown sauce, with finely minced ham, claret, currant jelly, and grated horseradish, flavoured with shallots, hay-leaf, thyme, and cloves. — Nipoise. — Demi-glace, blended with concentrated Italian tomato pur6e. — Niveraaise. — Allemande or veloute with finely shredded carrots. — Noisette. — Hollandaise sauce, mixed with baked, pounded, and sieved hazel-nuts, finished with double cream. — Nonparellle. — Hollandaise sauce enriched with cray- fish or lobster butter, mixed with chopped lobster meat, mushrooms, hard-boiled whites of eggs, and truffles. 132 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Norah. — Poivrade or pepper sauce with red-currant jelly, Worcester sauce, meat glaze, and lemon -juice. — Normande. — A white fish sauce, thickened with egg- yolks, fresh butter and cream, flavoured with lemon juice and essence of fish. ■ — Norv^gienne (Norwegian). — A cold sauce prepared with hard-boiled egg-yolks (passed through a sieve), yolks of fresh eggs, salt, pepper^ prepared mustard, oil, and vinegar, mixed with finely chopped herbs. — (Eufs (Egg). — A white sauce or hoUandaise sauce with hard-boiled eggs finely chopped. — Oignon (Onion). — A white sauce, with minced and blanched onions, seasoned with nutmeg, salt, and pepper ; served with rabbit or mutton. Brown onion sauce is made by frying the onions first, mixed with espagnole. — Olives. — A brown sauce, with stoned or turned olives, flavoured with lemon juice ; served with ducks, fowls, and beef. — Orange. — Reduced gravy sauce, mixed with orange juice and finely shredded orange rind ; served with roast duck or game. — Orleans. — Fish veloutfe sauce, reduced with white wine, finished with crayfish butter. — Orly. — Espagnole sauce, reduced with mushroom liquor and tomato pur6e. — Osellle (Sorrel). — Gravy or demi-glace sauce, with finely chopped blanched sorrel leaves ; served with fish, veal or fowls, etc. — Ours (Bear). — Poivrade sauce reduced with braize liquor, finished with butter. ^ Oxford. — A cold game sauce, same as Cumberland, with addition of finely grated orange-rind. — Oyster. — White sauce with quartered oysters. — Pain (Bread). — Milk thickened with fresh bread- crumbs, cooked with a small onion stuck with a clove ; finished with a little butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper ; served with roast poultry and some game. — Paloise. — B^arnaise or HoUandaise sauce with an infusion of green mint. — Paprika. — Veloute or allemande sauce highly seasoned with paprika and red Hungarian pepper. — Parlsienne. — A rich brown sauce, witli chopped shallots, parsley, lemon juice, and meat glaze, worked up a little with fresh butter ; served with entrecotes, steaks or fillets of beef. — Paul Bort.— White wine sauce, blended with tomato pur6e and Bearnaise sauce. SAUCES. 133 Sauce Pauvre Homme (Poor Man). — A brown sauce, blended with tomato ketchup, vmegar, and anchovy sauce ; suitable as a fish sauce. — P6rlgueux (Perigord). — MadSre sauce with finely chopped truffles, enriched with meat glaze. — Persil (Parsley). — Melted butter or bechamel sauce, with finely chopped parsley. — Persillade. — A kind of vinaigrette sauce, prepared with mustard, sweet oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped savoury herbs ; served cold with fish, vegetables or salad. — Piccadilly. — Demi-glace sauce, blended with anchovy butter, shallot flavour, and English mustard. — Pi^montaise. — Velout6 sauce, enriched with veal essence, anchovy butter, and chopped truffles. — Pignol. — Poivrade sauce, enriched with cream and chopped pignolis. — Piment. — ^Demi-glace sauce blended with tomato puree, highly seasoned with chopped pimentos and cayenne. — Piquante (Sharp). — A sharp brown sauce with chopped gherkins, capers, and shallots, seasoned with plenty of pepper and essence of anchovy. — Poivrade (Pepper). — A brown pepper sauce, flavoured with lean bacon or ham, celery, onions, thyme, and bay-leaf, reduced with vinegar, anchovy essence, and black pepper. — Polignac. — White wine sauce, enriched with cream and fresh mushrooms cut into fine shreds. — ■ Polonaise (Polish). — Veloute sauce with sour cream, grated horseradish, chopped fennel, and lemon juice; served with cutlets or steaks. — Pomme (Apple). — Apple pulp, slightly sweetened, en- riched with whipped cream ; served hot with roast pork, goose or duck. — Pompadour. — Allemande or veloute sauce with shallots (fried), cream, egg-yolks, chopped mushrooms, and parsley. — Porto. — Demi-glace sauce reduced with port-wine, and fried onion flavour. — Portugalse. — Tomato sauce diluted with well reduced veal gravy, flavoured with onion and garlic, blanched and fried. — Poulette (Veloute). — A white sauce, flavoured with aromatic herbs, thickened with egg-yolks and fresh butter, finished with chopped parsley and lemon juice. — Prince do Galles (Prince of Wales). — A cold sauce pre- pared with hard-boiled and raw egg-yolks, salad oil, tarragon vinegar, mixed with finely chopped herbs and French mustard ; served with grilled or fried fish or meat, 134 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Prlncesse. — Well reduced aUemande or bechamel with chicken essence and mushroom liquor, sliced mush- rooms and double cream. — Prlneiire. — White fish sauce, enriched with cray- fish butter, finely shredded crayfish tails, and truffles. — PrintanlSre. — Veloute sauce, enriched with fresh butter and green vegetable pur6e or cubes. — Provenfale. — Demi-glace with tomato pulp, finely chopped and fried onions, sUced mushrooms, and chopped parsley and olives, flavoured with lemon juice and garlic. — Raifort (chaude) (Horseradish, hot). — Bechamel sauce, mixed with grated horseradish and a little cream. — Raifort (frolde) (Horseradish, cold). — Sour cream, mixed with freshly grated horseradish and a little vinegar, seasoned with sugar and salt. — Ravlgote (chaude).— A white sauce, flavoured with savoury herbs, reduced with wine \'inegar, finished with fine herbs, butter, and cream (hot). — Ravlgote (froide). — Mayonnaise sauce, mixed with chopped parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, and shallots, tinted with a little spinach greening (cold). — Rfiforme.— Poivrade sauce, diluted with port wine, red- currant jelly, and Worcester sauce. — Rigence. — Demi-glace or gravy sauce, reduced with white wine and truffle essence, flavoured with finely minced and blended onions. — R6gente. — Rich white sauce with truffle and mushroom essence incorporated. — Reine-Marie (Queen Mary). — A brown sauce, made with rich meat gravy, port wine, chopped shallots, parsley, and pounded anchovies ; served with all kinds of roast meats or boiled fish. — R6moulade. — A mayonnaise sauce with chopped parsley, fennel, tarragon leaves, shallots, and pre- pared mustard. — Rieardo. — A brown sauce, prepared from the carcase of game, with finely minced fried onions, toasted bread, sherry, thickened with a little meat glaze ; servefi with dishes of game, etc. — Rlche. — HoUandaise, enriched with lobster butter or spawn, with dice shapes of truffles and crayfish tails. — Richelieu. — A brown game sauce, reduced with Madeira wine and meat extract. — Robert (Robert). — A brown sauce with finely chopped onionsf fried in butter, chilli vinegar, prepared mustard, and a little anchovy essence. SAUCES. 135 Sauce Romaine (Roman). — Demi-glace or espagnole sauce, mixed with currants, sultanas, Italian pine-seeds ipignoli), diluted and reduced with white wine vinegar, and strained. — Roosevelt. — Tomato sauce blended with apple puree, flavoured with' lemon rind grated. — Rouennaise. — MadSre sauce, blended with raw duck- liver puree. — Rubens. — Fish veloute sauce, blended with mushroom liquor, enriched with anchovy butter and hard egg- yolks. — Russe (Russian).^ — AUemande or bechamel with grated horseradish, finely chopped ham, shallots, reduced with vinegar and white wine, seasoned with sour cream, sugar, pepper, and salt ; served hot. — Russe (Iroide). — Cold remoulade sauce blended with grated horseradish and caviare. — Salmis. — A brown game sauce, reduced with white wine, meat glaze, and tomato pulp, flavoured with savoury herbs. — Saxonne. — Melted butter sauce with fish essence, shallot flavour, blended with grated lemon rind and mustard. — Slcilienne (Sicilian). — Espagnole sauce, reduced with Marsala wine ; sliced onions fried in butter are mixed with the sauce just before serving ; served with beefsteaks, roast fillets of beef, etc. — Smitane. — Onion puree, reduced with white wine and bechamel, enriched with sour cream. — SoIt6rino. — Demi-glace sauce with shallot reduced in Madeira wine, blended with tomato puree. — Soubise. — A white, sauce with onion puree, seasoned with nutmeg, pepper, sugar, and salt, enriched with cream and butter. — Souchet. — Fish licjuor, reduced with finely-shredded carrots, onion, and celery, also chopped parsley. — Soyer. — A white fish sauce, flavoured with savoury herbs, shallots, and lemon juice, thickened with egg-yolks and cream. — St. Malo. — White wine sauce with shallot flavour, enriched with anchovy butter and mustard. — St. Menehould. — Bechamel sauce, enriched with veal essence, mixed with chopped parsley and cham- pignons. -^ St. Vincent ^cold). — R6moulade sauce, flavoured with well-reduced white wine (chablis). — Stragotte. — A rich game sauce, reduced with tomato pulp and Madeira wine, flavoured with vegetable mirepoix, shallots, cloves, and mace, and strained ; generally served with Italian dishes, 136 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Su^doise (Swedish). — A white sauce, highly flavoured, with grated horseradish and chilli vinegar ; served hot. — Su^doise (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with French mustard and grated horseradish. — Sultane. — Demi-glace sauce, enriched with game es- sence (fumet) and port-wine, mixed with small sultanas. — SuprSme.^ — A rich white sauce, made with chicken stock and white roux, enriched with egg-yolks, cream, and fresh butter ; a garniture of sliced truffles and mushrooms is sometimes added. — Tartare. — Mayonnaise mixed with French mustard, finely chopped chives, spring onions, tarragon and chervil leaves, gherkins, capers, and parsley ; served cold. — Texienne (Texas). — A mild curry sauce with a little saffron, chopped parsley, lemon juice, finished with fresh butter. — Tomate (Tomato). — Fresh tomatoes, cooked with mire- poix, white wine, and veal stock, thickened with white roux, seasoned and strained ; or puree of tomatoes, mixed with a little brown sauce and meat glaze, flavoured with aromatic herbs and shallots, seasoned with salt and sugar. — Tortue (Turtle). — A brown sauce, made from turtle stock, with finely chopped shallots, flavoured with anchovy essence, lemon juice, sherry, and finely chopped lemon rind ; seasoned with salt and cayenne pepper ; strained. — Toulouse. — AUemande or veloute sauce, flavoured with truffle and mushroom essence. — Tournedos. — Rich beef stock, reduced with white wine and tomato puree, mixed with blended shallots, capers, and chopped champignons. — Trianon (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with tomato pulp and soubise pur6e, tarragon flavodr, mixed with finely cut gherkin and pimiento strips. — TyroHenne (cold). — Mayonnaise sauce, blended with tomato puree. — Tyrollenne (hot).— HoUandaise sauce, blended with tomato purfie. — Unlverselle (Universal). — A highly spiced cold sauce, for cold meats, etc. , prepared with mushroom ketchup, port wine, shallot vinegar, ground spice, mace, cayenne pepper, and anchovy essence. — Valolse. — Finely chopped shallots, reduced in white wine, mixed with meat extract, egg-yolks, chopped parsley, cream, and butter ; whisked in bain-marie ; treated as ^earnaise, SAUCES. 137 Sauce Velout6 (Foundation Sauce).— A rich white sauce, prepared with chicken or veal stock, flavoured witli savoury herbs, vegetable mirepoix, and white roux. When finished it should be as smooth as velvet : hence its name veloute (velvet-like). — Vfinltienne (Venetian). — A white fish sauce, thickened with egg-yolks and butter or cream, mixed with chopped parsley, flavoured with lemon juice, and garnished with small button mushrooms. — - Verjus. — Espagnole sauce with mashed, unripe green grapes, cooked in stock, reduced with sherry and finished with fresh butter ; served with roast duck or pork. — Vernet. — Bechamel sauce with finely chopped herbs, tarragon, and chervil, also shredded gherkin, truffle, and champignons. — V§ron. — B^arnaise sauce, blended with veloute and anchovy essence. — Verte. — Green herb sauce (same as " Verte-pr6 " ). — Verte-pr6 (Green Herb). — Composed of puree of cooked spinach, blanched parsley, chives, and tarragon, , worked up with whipped cream or butter, and mixed with ravigote sauce. — Victoria. — Supreme sauce, enriched with lobster butter and champignon essence. — Viennoise. — Poivrade (pepper sauce), blended with lemon and orange juice, reduced and finished with cream. — Villageolse. — AUemande or veloute sauce, enriched with meat glaze or chicken essence. — Villeroi.— Veloute or b6chamel, with finely chopped cooked ham and tongue, enriched with egg-yolks and fresh butter. — Vinaigrette. — Composed of salad oil, vinegar, chopped shallots, parsley, chervil, and gherkins, seasoned with pepper and salt ; served cold with calf's head, seakale, asparagus, etc. — Vln-blauc. — Bechamel or veloute, flavpured with white wine, lemon juice, and fish essence. — Vincent. — Mayonnaise mixed with green herb puree (tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley). — Vin-rouge (claret sauce). — Red wine, reduced in mirepoix, thickened with espagnole sauce, flavoured with anchovy essence. — York, d' (Yorkshire). — Demi-glace sauce, fine shreds of orange rind, red currant jelly, port wine, orange juice, and a little ground cinnamon ; served with Spiled ham, roast or pickled pork. 138 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Sauce Yorkshire. — Orange shreds, reduced in port wine' and orange juice, thickened with espagnole, seasoned with cinnamon and cayenne. — '■ Zingara. — Espagnole or demi-glace or game sauce, blended with tomato puree, mixed witji finely shredded truffle and smoked ox-tongue. — Zouave. — Demi-glace with tomato sauce,- blended, reduced with chilli vinegar, flavoured with garlic, tarragon, and mustard. PART VI. GARNITURES. Principal Garnitures chiefly suitable for Removes (Relevds), certain Fish Entries, as well as Joints of Meat and Poultry. Oarnitures — Garnishings. Garniture d r Alexandra (for Poultry). — Artichoke bottoms cut into quarters and sliced truffles ; supreme sauce. — d I'Alsacienne (for Meat). — ^Braised spring cabbage, fondante potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 I'Amiral (for Fish). — Mussels, shrimps, and crayfish ; matelotte sauce. — d KAndalouse (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised iDutton onions, stuffed tomatoes, and risol6e potatoes ; rich gravy. — & l'ArI6sienne (for Meat or Poultry). — Aubergines, tomatoes, and onion rings ; tomato and demi-glace sauce, blended. — k l'Ath6nlenne (for Meat or Poultry). — Stufied auber- gines ; Madeira sauce. — d la Banquiire (for Entries). — Larks, stufifed with truffle, and small quenelles ; perigueux or truffle sauce. — i la Bayard (for Poultry), — .Truffles, mushroom heads, slices of foie-gras, and artichoke bottoms ; Madeira sauce. — d la Beatrice (for Meat or Poultry). — Morrels, or c&pes, young carrots, quarters of artichoke bottoms, new kidney potatoes. — a la Belle- H«l§ne (for Fillets of Beef, etc.).— Small croquettes of asparagus points and sliced truffles ; rich gravy or demi-glace. — & la Bohdmienne (for Meat). — Stoned olives, mush- rooms, button onions, and small kidney potatoes ; poivrade sauce, GARNITURES. 139 Garniture A, la Bontoux (for Meat or Poultry). — Macaroni croquettes ; Madeira sauce. — ^ la Boulangdre (for Meat). — Kidney potatoes balced with fried onions ; demi-glace sauce. — a la Bouqueti^re (for Meat or Poultry). — Artichoke bottoms grilled, asparagus tips, with groups of green peas, French beans, young carrots, turnips, and cauliflower buds ; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Bourgeoise (for Meat). — Young carrots, turnips, button onions, kidney potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 la Bourguignonne (for Meat or Poultry).^Braised and glazed button onions, mushroom heads, and rolled lean bacon, grilled brown ; Burgundy wine sauce. — & la Bretonne (for Meat).— Haricot beans, whole or as puree, with fine herbs ; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Brillat Savarin (for Meat or Poultry). — Duchesse potato croustades, filled with tomato puree, sliced trufHes, and sliced artichoke bottoms ^ ^ la Bristol (for Meat). — Savoury rice croquettes, or risotto timbales, flageolets, and Parisian potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Bruxelloise (for boiled or braised Meat). — ^Brussels sprouts, and braised chicory or endive, olive-shaped boiled potatoes ; gravy. — d la CambacSres (for Meat or Poultry). — Truffles, mush- rooms, and turned olives ; Madeira sauce — & la Cameranl (for Meat). — Braised sauerkraut (chou- croute) and rolled bacon, grilled ; Madeira sauce, with chopped trufiles. — i, la, Cancale or Cancalaise (for Fish). ^Oysters and shrimps, or prawns ; Normande sauce. — ^ la Canova (for Meat or Poultry). — Slices of foie-gras (escalopes), cocks' kernels, and truffles ; demi-glace. — d la Cardinal (for Fish). — Shrimps, prawns, or lobster dice ; Cardinal sauce. — d la Chambord (for Fish). — Mushroom or champignon heads, quenelles, slices of truffle, crayfish tails, soft roe, and glazed croutons ; sauce Genevoise. — d la Chatelaine (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised lettuce, artichoke bottoms filled with chestnut puree and soubise puree, chateau potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Chlpolata (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised chestnuts, mushroom heads, small button onions, small smoked sausages, and sliced truffles ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 la Chlvry (for Fish). — Small oyster bouchees or patties, mussels tossed in white sauce, and small potato croquettes ; chivry sauce, - — d la Choisy (for Beef Fillets). — Braised cabbage lettuce and chateau potatoes ; demi-glace saiice. 140 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Garniture k la Clamart (for Meat or Poultry). — Artichoke- bottoms filled with puree of green peas ; rich gravy. — ^ la Clermont (for Meat). — Small stuffed onions, and slices of fried artichokes ; demi-glace sauce. — i la Cumberland (for Pork or Gam6). — Small tartlet crusts filled with apple pttree ; venison sauce, with port-wine flavour. — a la Dartols (for Meat or Poultry). — Duchesse potato croustades filled with green peas ; madSre sauce. — k la Dauphlne (for Poultry or Meat). — Dauphine potatoes, placed in nests made of straw potatoes ; demi-glace or gravy. — & la Dieppoise (for Fish). — Mussels, mushrooms, cray- fish or shrimps ; fish-flavoured veloute sauce.- — ^ la Don Juan (for Poultry). — Puff paste cases or bouchees, filled with salpicon of chicken fillets, truffles, and mushrooms ; demi-glace sauce or gravy. — i la Dorla (for Fish). — Olive shapes of cucumber, braised, and tossed in sour cream, also thin rounds of lemon ; cream sauce. — 4 la Doria (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised cubes of cucumber and noisette potatoes ; rich gravy or demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Dubarry (for Meat). — Breaded and baked cauli- flower (au gratin) ; white or brown sauce. — ^ la Duchesse (for Meat). — With Duchesse potatoes ; maddre or demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Favorite (for Meat or Poultry). — Braised lettuce, artichoke bottoms, small potato timbales and mushroom heads ; rich gravy. — d la Fermiere (for Meat). — Young carrots braised, braised lettuce, and olive-shaped potatoes ; rich gravy. — ^ la Flamande (for Meat). — Braised cabbage, young carrots, turnips, marble or egg-shaped potatoes, and small pork sausages ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 la Florentine (for Fish or Meat). — Spinach timbales or savoury semolina ; pastry cassolettes or croquettes ; veloutfe or demi-glace sauce. — - Jk la Florian (for Lamb). — ^Braised cabbage lettuce, olive-shaped baked and'glazed potatoes, glazed button onions and fondante potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — il la Fran^alse (for Meat). — Croustades of rice or potato filled with vegetable macedoine, with groups of asparagus points, cauliflower, lettuce ; rich gravy or madSre sauce. — ik la Gastronome (for Meat or Poultry). — C6pes tossed in butter, slices of truffles and fleurons ; rich gravy or madSre sauce. GARNITURES. 141 'Garniture i la Gaulolse (for Poultry). — Truffles, mush- rooms, cocks' kernels, and slices of ham ; demi-glace with tomato sauce. — !l la GrSque (for Poultry). — Savoury rice as basis or as timbales ; tomato sauce. — ^ la Godard (for Meat or Poultry). — Slices of sweetbread, small chicken quenelles, cocks' combs, mushroom heads, and sliced truffle ; madere sauce or demi-glace. — i la Henri IV. — Artichoke bottoms and noisette potatoes ; bearnaise sauce. — ^ la Hongroise (for Meat). — Small cooked cauliflowers, breaded and baked (au gratin), and fondante pota- toes ; veal gravy or cream sauce with paprika flavour. — k I'Imperiaie (for Meat or Poultry). — Mushroom heads, cocks' combs and kidneys, trufilies, quenelles ; veloute sauce. — k I'Indienne (for Fish or Poultry). — Savoury rice, with curry flavour ; curry sauce. — !k I'ltalienne (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms and macaroni croquettes ; brown mushroom or tomato sauce. — k I'lvolre (for Poultry). — Chicken breasts cut in slices or scallops, and cocks' combs ; suprSme sauce. — d la Japonaise (for Meat or Poultry). — Plain tartlet crusts filled with Japanese crosnes (stacki) blended with veloute sauce, also potato croquettes ; rich gravy. — ^ la Jardiniere (for Meat). — Groups of young spring vegetables or vegetable macedoine ; gravy or demi- , glace. — 4 la Joinville (for Fish). — Slices of truffles, and mush- rooms ; shrimp or lobster sauce. — a la Judic (for Meat). — Braised lettuces stuffed with savoury ham farce, also sliced truffles ; demi-glace. — 4 la Jules Verne (for Meat).— Stuffed kidney potatoes, baked, and braised turnips ; rich gravy. — 4 la Jussien (for Meat). — Braised cabbage lettuces and glazed button onions ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 la Landron (for Meat or Poultry).' — C6pes or morilles, aubergines, and Parisian potatoes ; gravy. — d la Lavaiiere (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with asparagus puree ; bordelaise sauce. — 4 la Lorraine (for Ham or Pork). — Braised red cabbage or choucroute and potato quenelles ; Albert sauce. — 4 la LucuIIus (for Poultry). — FiuanciSre, truffles, sweetbread slices, cocks' combs, and cocks' kernels ; demirglace sauce. — 4 la Lyonnaise (for Meat). — Braised stuffed onions and potato puree ; gravy. 142 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Garniture ^ la Mar^chale (for Poultry). — Chicken quenelles" truffles, aird champignons ; suprSme sauce. — i la Marie Louise (for Meat or Poultry). — Paste crou- stades filled with pea-shaped carrots, turnips, and green peas ; rich gravy. — i la lUarigny (for Meat or Poultry). — Croutons or croustades filled with flageolets beans, also fondante potatoes ; gravy. — 4 la Mariniere (for Fish). — ^Mussels, bearded oysters, and crayfish ; white fish sauce. — i la Marseillaise (for Fish). — Halves of tomatoes tossed in butter, flavoured with garlic, and ribbon pota- toes ; brown fish sauce. — & la Mascotte (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms, braised button onions, and noisette potatoes ; rich gravy. — 4 la M^dlcis (for Meat). — Paste or bread croustades, with olive-shaped braised turnips ; tomato sauce. — d la Mentonnaise (for Meat). — Small vegetable marrows, stuffed with savoury farce meat, and braised ; also new kidney potatoes, and artichoke bottoms ; gravy. — & la Mignon (for Poultry or Meat). — ^Artichoke bottoms filled with small green peas, chicken quenelles, and sliced truffles ; demi-glace sauce. — il la Milanaise (for Meat). — Macaroni, julieime strips of tongue, and mushrooms ; tomato sauce. — d la Mirelle (for Meat). — Plain tartlet crusts filled with saffron flavoured rice, potato croquettes, and toma- toes ; tomato sauce. — d la Mirabeau (for Meat). — Stoned olives, anchovy fillets, and artichoke bottoms ; demi-glace sauce, with tarragon or chervil flavour. — ^ la Moderne (for Meat). — Braised cabbage lettuces, potato croquettes, and chicken quenelles mixed with chopped tongue ; demi-glace sauce or gravy. — ^ la Montebello (for Poultry or Meat). — Tartlet crusts filled with shredded truffles and tongue ; bearnaise sauce, blended with tomato pulp. — ^ la Montpsnsier (for Meat). — .\sparagus tips, sliced truffles, and artichoke bottoms ; demi-glace. — 'k la NaP-tua (for Fish). — Small puff paste bouchees filled with salpicon of truffle and crayfish ; nantua sauce. — 4 la Napolitaine (for Meat). — Spaghetti mixed with tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese. — & la N6inours (for Meat). — Grilled cup mushrooms and JJuchesse potatoes ; gravy. — i, la Nl(oise (for Meat). — Grilled or sauteed tomatoes, French beans, stoned olives, and Parisienne pota- toes ; gravy. GARNITURES. 143 Garniture & la Nivernalse (for Poultry or Meat). — Small braised carrots and button onions ; demi-glace. — 4 la Normande (for Fish). — Oysters, shrimps, mussels, mushrooms, fried smelts, and fried and glazed troutons ; Normaude sauce. — a la Orientale (for Poultry or Meat). — Savoury rice timbales and potato croquettes ; tomato sauce. — a la Portugaise (for Meat). — Small tomatoes stuffed with duxelle puree, and chclteau potatoes ; tomato sauce. — 4 la Proven^ale (for Meat). — Stuffed tomatoes and fried aubergines, French beans, and new potatoes ranged in groups ; gravy. — 4 la Providence (for Poultry or Meat). — Sliced mush- rooms and truffles, olives and slices of foie-gras ; Madeira or demi-glace sauce. — 4 la Rachel (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with braised beef marrow, mixed with chopped parsley ; bordelaise sauce. — a la Radzlwyl (for Fish). — Soft roe, truffles, mush- rooms, French gherkins, and crayfish quenelles ; Genevoise sauce. — 4 la R6forme (for Meat). — Julienne strips of truffles, carrots, hard-boiled white of egg and tongue ; gravy or demi-glace. — 4 la Regince (for Fish). — Fish quenelles, oysters, truffles, mushrooms, and soft roe ; Normande sauce. — 4 la Reg^nce (for Meat or Poultry). — Chicken quen- elles, truffles, foie-gras, mushrooms, and cocks' kernels ; allemande sauce. k la R6naissanee (for Fish or Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with macedoine of . vegetables, also small cauliflower buds coated with HoUandaise sauce. — • i la Riehe (for Meat). — Artichoke bottoms filled with green peas, and coated with choron sauce, and decorated with truffles. — i la Richelieu (for Poultry or Meat). — Braised stuffed musTirooms, braised cabbage-lettuces, and artichoke bottoms filled with chicken pur6e, also chdteau potatoes ; demi-glace. — a la Romanoff (for Meat). — Stuffed and braised cubes of cucumbers, and potato croustades filled with ■ salpicon of celeriac and mushrooms ; demi-glace. — 4 la St.'ffland6 (for Meat). — Baked potatoes filled with green peas and asparagus points. — 4 la Sards (for Meat). — Rice croquettes flavoured with saffron and parmesan cheese, also stuffed tomatoes or cucumbers ; tomato sauce. 144 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Garniture t la Savoisienne (for Meat). — Braised cucumbers, noisette potatoes, and artichoke bottoms ; demi- glace sauce. — d la Saxonne (for Poultry or Meat). — St'uSed tomatoes and braised cucumbers ; demi-glace sauce. — i la Semlllante (for Fish). — Quenelles, carp's roe, crayfish and mushrooms ; matelotte sauce. — i la Sorel (for Meat). — Slices of foie-gras and croiites filled with puree of mushrooms ; madere sauce. — ^ la Strasbourgeoise (for Pork or Ham). — Frankfort sausages, choucroute, or pickled cabbage, and slices of foie-gras ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Talleyrand (for Meat). — Spaghetti or macaroni, with julienne strips of truffles and slices of foie-gras ; perigueux sauce. — ^ la Trianon (for Poultry or Meat). — Puree of carrots, green peas, and potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Trouvlllalse (for Fish). — Shrimps or prawns, and mussels ; lobster or shrimp sauce. — & la Windsor (for Meat). — Green peas, braised turnips, and sauteed potatoes ; demi-glace or gravy. PART VII. THE ENTREE COURSE. Dishes following the fish course or preceding the Remove when such is served, are called entrees ; which, being translated into English, means " entrance." Hence the dishes served under this heading are considered by the epicure as the first "of the essential dishes of a correct dinner, and rightly so, because there may be dinners without hors-d'oeuvre, and even without soup, or without a remove or releve, but there can be no proper dinner without an entree course. Entrees are generally defined as " dressed dishes," or " made dishes." A dish bearing the name " entree " is, as a general rule, composed of more than one ingredient, and there should always be a distinction from roast or boiled meat served with a vegetable or other garnish and an entree. When two entries are chosen in a dinner, the first should be the lighter of the two. All entries should be made in fancy style, so as to avoid carving ; for entries THE ENTREE COURSE. 145 snould not be carved or served from the sideboard. During Lent (mi-cargme) dishes known as fish entrees, excepting in the case of cold dishes, are allowable as entrees. The great secret in entrees in general lies undoubtedly in the sauces used for their preparation or their accom- paniment. All sauces should serve the purpose of liquid seasonings, and as such they must be rich and carefully prepared. Compound or long process sauces, foundation sauces and their offsprings, play a most important part in the entrees themselves, as well as in their relation to the dishes which precede and follow them ; their character, flavour, and colour must, of course, be studied so as to harmonise with the rest of the dishes selected for the same meal, more particularly so in the case of Dinner Entrees. Special Light Entries, including several New Vegetable Entrees. Biscuits glacis i, la tomate (Cold). — A delicately prepared tomato puree, enriched with cream and paprika seasoning, frozen in brick shape, then sliced and placed on thin oblong wafer biscuits ; decorated with whipped cream and parsley sprigs. BQches de tomates i, la Rossini (Cold). — Leaf or heart shaped tartlet crusts, filled With halves of tomatoes containing foie-gras puree, flavoured with tomato pulp and aspic ; garnished with truffles and pimientos, also small salad. Cliartreuse de jambon 4 la Clamart. — Small timbale moulds lined with heart-shaped slices of cooked ham and a layer of chicken souffle mixture, centre filled with green pea puree, and covered with chicken farce ; steamed and served with tomato sauce. — de legumes h la Qulrinal (Cold). — Cold vegetable chartreuse, octagon shape, outside decorated with chopped hard-boiled white of egg, egg-yolk, trufiies and parsley, four distinct sections ; interior filled with cooked asparagus tips, French beans, artichoke ■bottoms, kidney potatoes, chopped truffles, etc., all blended with mayonnaise and aspic to set Cdtelettes de volaille k I'Ecarlate. — Small cutlets made of chicken farce, and poached, placed on cutlet-shaped ■ slices of ox-tongues, and served on similarly shaped fried bread croutons ; garnished with mushroom heads ; demi-glace sauce. 146 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Crepinettes de toie-gras i la Princesse. — Salpicon of braised foie-gras, truffle, ham, etc., made up -in oblong shapes, wrapped in pig's cawl, and fried in butter ; garnished with small green asparagus (sprue) ; demi- glace sauce. Darioles de rls d'Agneau h la St. Germain (Cold). — Dariole or timbale shapes, lined with green pea puree, and filled with salpicon of lamb's bread, truffles, mush- rooms, and veloute sauce, covered with pea, puree, ^and poached or steamed, then set in aspic coated moulds. — de Jambon & la Bayonne (Cold). — The same as " Chartreuse de Jambon k la Clamart," but prepared cold and set in aspic jelly. — d'oeufs ^ la Cr6cy. — Bouche cups or dariole moulds, lined with thin slices of carrot, filled with carrot puree and savoury custard, and poached or steamed ; tomato sauce. Feuilles de laltues aux Crevettes (Cold)^ — Salpicon composed of pickled shrimps, vegetable macedoine, mayonnaise and aspic, shaped in balls, and placed on round lettuce leaves, coated with mayonnaise aspic, and garnished with beetroot and cucumber. Frlandlnes de ris d'Agneau. — Round puflf-paste pasties, filled with a rich salpicon of lamb's bread, tongue, and truffle, served with tomato sauce mixed with chopped gherkins. Matelotte do cervelles de veau. — Brown fricassee of calf's brains, dressed in rice cassolettes or croutes of rice. CEufs pangulne 4 la Carola (Cold). — Hard-boiled penguin eggs, cut up and mixed with rice, lobster, bechamel, curry sauce, and mayonnaise ; dressed as mayonnaise, with sliced eggs on top ; garnished with pimiento, lobster, and lemon slices. Ris d'Agneau t la MIrabeau. — Lamb's breads braised white and cut in rounds (m6dallions), masked with white chaudfroid sauce, and placed on tartlet crusts filled with lamb's bread pur6e mixed with tongue ; garnished with truffle and pimiento slices. Tlmbales or Darioles t la Gaulolse (Cold).— Small aspic lined timbales or other shapes of green pea pur6e, mixed with chopped ham, mayonnaise, cream and aspic. — do tomates aux noix (Cold). — Tomato flavoured and coloured aspic coated timbales, filled alternately with walnut pur6e and sliced tomatoes ; garnished with julienne of salad plant. LIGHT ENTRIES. 147 Entrees Legirs, etc. I Light Entries and Hot Side Dishes. A number of these dishes are also suitable as buffet or supper dishes for balls and receptions, and can be served cold. Seignets, etc. Beignets fie Cervelle de Veau (Calf's brain fritters.)— Boiled brain pieces dipped in batter and fried in deep fat. — de Pied de Veau (Calf's Foot Fritters). — Cooked calf's foot cut in strips, marinaded, coated with batter, and fried in deep fat. — de Rls de Veau (Sweetbread Fritters). — Slices of cooked or blanched sweetbread, egged and crumbed or dipped in batter, and fried in fat. — de VoIalUe (Chicken Fritters). — Small joints of chicken, boned, marinaded, coated with batter, and fried in deep fat. Boudins or Boudinades. These are, as a rule, small oblong, cylindrical, spherical, or border shapes of souffle-like mixtures (farce) of fish, meat, poultry or game, steamed or poached, and served with a suitable sauce. Boudins de Volaille t, la Reine. — Small cylindrical shapes of chicken farce, poached, and served with supreme sauce. — • de Volaille blanc. — White chicken boudins, centre filled with chicken salpicon, and served with white sauce. — de Gibier & la P^rigueux. — Small oblong or oval shapes of game farce mixed with chopped truffle, steamed, and served with a rich truffle sauce. — de Liivre k la Richelieu. — Boudins of hare farce with truffle salpicon in centre, steamed in oven, and served with rich truffle sauce. — de Sanglier. — Wild boar boudins, poached, and served with bigarade sauce. — de Veau. — Boudins of veal, poached or steamed in oven, served with cream or veloute sauce. Bouch^es or Petites Boiichtles. Bouchees are, unless otherwise stated, small puff-paste cases filled with certain savoury preparations of either fish, meat, poultry or game. Bouchdes d, I'Astrachan. — Very small pufi-paste cases or patties filled witji coarse-grain seas oned best Russian caviare. 148 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Bouchdes de Gibier. — Game patties. — de Homard. — Lobster patties. — aux Huitres. — Oyster patties. — de Jambon. — Ham patties. — d la Mod^rne. — Small bouclie cups lined thinly with potato puree, and filled with chicken salpicon. — i la Montglas. — Puff-paste patty cases filled with chicken fillets, sweetbread, mushrooms and truffles cut in dice, and moistened with white sauce. — & la Prlncesse. — Puff-paste cases filled with minced ortolan fillets and truffles (brown sauce). — 4 la Relne.— Puff-paste cases filled with minced chicken fillets, ham or tongue, mushrooms and truffles (white sauce). — k la Toulouse. — Puff-paste cases filled with veal fillets, chicken, cocks' combs, mushrooms and truffles cut in dice (white sauce). — de Volatile. — Chicken patties, being puff-paste cases filled with chicken puree or ragout. Petltes Bouch6es t la Su6doise. — Pastry crusts, or patties of puff paste, filled with ragout of sweetbread, lobster, crayfish tails, and broiled bacon, top of bouchees sprinkled with grated cheese, breadcrumbs, and lobster butter, and browned in oven. Cannelons. Cannelons are small rolls of puff-paste filled with a savoury mince of game, poultry, meats, etc. They are either egged and baked in the oven, or egged and rolled in crushed vermicelli or breadcrumbs, and fried in clarified butter or dripping Cannelons k la purie de champignons. — Cannelons filled with mushroom purfee. — a la pur£e de gibier. — Cannelons filled with game puree. — aux saucisses. — Sausage meat cannelons. — sk la pur6e de truDes. — Cannelons filled with truffle puree — sk la purie de Volaille. — Cannelons filled with chicken farce. Cassolettes. These, like croustades, are small thin crusted, oval, round or other suitable shapes, hollowed out to receive any desired mixture, savoury, fish, meat, poultry or game, vegetable purde, salpicons, etc. Cassolettes are made from potato puree, semolina, cornflour, rice or riceflour, etc., all of which are previously LIGHT ENTRIES. 149 cooked in thick pur6e or pulp form, shaped to the desired sizes when cold, and subsequently egged, crumbed, and fried in deep fat. The fat must be very hot to ensure the crust being crisp. Silver-plated and earthen- ware porcelain fireproof cassolettes have also lately been introduced, and are most useful for this purpose. Cassolettes d'isslny. — Small cake or cork shapes of fresh butter, twice egged and crumbed, fried in deep fat, carefully drained and cut open to allow the liquid butter to run out, when they are filled with the desired mixtures ^ — a la Piequart. — Semolina or rice cassolettes filled with salpicon of tongue, ham, calf's brain, bechamel, and truffle. ^ a la Suzanne.— Potato or duchesse cassolette shapes, filled with minced chicken fillets, asparagus points, supreme sauce, and round of truffle on top of each. (For other varieties see " Croustades" and " Bouchees," which can be adopted.) — de Jambon. — Small ham souffles (dariole-shaped). Vol-au-Vent, The name " vol-au-vent " is given to a large light puff-paste crust made oval or round in shape, the Interior of which is filled with delicately flavoured ragouts of fish, lobster, oyster, etc., meat, veal, rabbit, and sweetbread or chicken. This dish is always served hot. For other fillings -safi Bouch£es. Vol-au-Vent & la Chambord. — Small fish quenelles, mushrooms, and truffles heated up in veloute sauce, and filled into vol-au-vent cases. — i la Duchesse. — Boned boiled fowl, cut up small, with mushrooms and truffles, heated in supreme sauce, and filled into vol-au-vent cases. — ^ la Financiere. — A brown stew of sweetbread, truffles, cocks' combs, kernels, small chicken quenelles, mushrooms, and stoned olives, dressed in vol-au-vent. — & la Toulouse. — A white stew of small chicken quenelles, truffles, mushrooms, and veal fillets, dressed in vol- au-vent Coguilles, etc. Coqiiilles are scallop shells, filled with coarsely-minced meats, etc., baked in the oven to brown the surface. C!oquUIes de Volaille truffle. — Chicken fillets minced and mixed with truffle and white sauce, baked in shells. — de Champignons. — Mushroom and white sauce baked in shells. ISO PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. CoqulUes de Cervelle de Veau.—Calf s brain and white sauce baked in shells. — de Perdreail. — Partridge fillets baked in shells. — de poulet ^ la Cardinal. — Minced chicken and crayfish tails baked in shells. — de Ris de Veau. — Sweetbread salpicon, breaded, and baked in shells. — de Truffes. — Sliced truffles, with brown sauce, baked in shells. Croustades or Cassolettes. Croustades are oval or spherical shapes of baked or fried paste, bread, rice or potato crusts, which are filled with minced or delicate ragouts of'meat or game. Cassolettes 4 la Montglas. — Comucopian shapes of puS- paste, baked and filled with braised lambs' breads, cut in dice, mushrooms, and truffles, with allemande sauce. CroQstades aux huitres. — Oyster croustade filled with poached oysters, mushroom heads, sliced truffles, and velout6 sauce. — de glbier t la Vatel. (Game Croustade, Vatel style). — Stewed fillets of game, richly flavoured with chopped truffles and mushrooms, served in fried bread croustades. — & I'lmpiriale. — Baked rice croustade filled with a ragout of chicken fillets, foie-gras, mushrooms, and truffles (supreme sauce). — de Macaroni. — ^Macaroni croustade filled with cooked macaroni, ham cut in dice, cheese and tomato sauce. — de volallles k la P^rigueux (Chicken Croustade, Perigord style). — Stewed fillets of chicken with truffles and brown sauce, baked in paste crust cases. — 4 la PSrlgourdine. — Fried rice croustade filled with ' small game quenelles, slices of sweetbread, cocks' combs, kernels, and truffles ; sauce mad^e. — 4 la Richelieu. — Baked paste croflstade filled with small chicken quenelles, poached and fried, mush- room's, and truffle sauce. — de Venalson (Venison Croustade). — Finely cut or minced fillet of venison, moistened with brown sauce and baked in paste crust cases. Crepinettes and J ndouillettes. Crepinettes- are small square-shaped meat mixtures, wrapped in pig's caul, egged, crumbed, and fried in clarified butter or dripping. Andouillettes are made similarly to crepinettes, but, LIGHT ENTRIES. 151 in place of being crumbed and fried, are braised in butter and served in paper cases Creplnettes de Volaille truffle. — Chicken and truffle crepinettes. — de Falsan.— Pheasant crepinettes. — de Llevre. — Hare crepinettes. — de Levraut. — Wild rabbit crepinettes. — de Perdreau truffle.— Partridge and truffle crepinettes. — de Pluvler. — Plover crepinettes. Andouillettes de Gibler. — Game andouillettes. — i la Romaine. — Minced chicken, mushroom, truffle, cheese, and meat glaze, made into salpicon, shaped oval, wrapped in caul, and braised ; served with truffle sauce. Cromesqui.i — jKromeskis. Cromesquis or kromeskis are small rolls of savoury- preparations called . salpicon, which are rolled in thin slices of bacon, dipped in frying batter, and fried in hot lard or other fat ; garnished with fried parsley. Cromesquis au Jambon. — Little rolls or cork shapes of minced ham, mushroom, and truffle, made up in salpicon with madSre sauce, rolled up in bacon, dipped in batter, and fried in deep fat. — d'^crevisses. — Crayfish kromeskis. — de gibier. — Game kromeskis. — de homard. — Lobster kromeskis. — aux huitres. — Oyster kromeskis — de pied de pore. — ^Pig's feet kromeskis. — de pluvier. — Plover kromeskis. — & la Russe (Russian Kromeskis). — These consist of minced chicken, ham or tongue, truffles, and mushrooms. — de volaille. — Chicken kromeskis. Croquettes, Croquette is the name given to oval, round, ball, cutlet, or cork shapes of minced meats, fish, poultry or game. These shapes are egged, crumbed, and fried in clarified butter or dripping. Croquettes de volaille. — Chicken croquettes. — de fole-gras.^Goose liver croquettes. — de gibler aux truffes. — Game croquettes with truffles. — de perdreau. — Partridge croquettes. 152 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY Croquettes de riz au salpieon. — Cooked rice and minced chicken, ham, etc., made into croquettes and fried. — de Rognons de Veau. — Calf's kidney croquettes. — de Veau. — Veal croquettes. Friandines. These are made of puff-paste, rolled out thinly with a 2-inch fluted round cutter ; a portion of prepared mince or salpieon of meat or game, etc., is placed in the centre of each round ; this is covered with a round of paste, egged, dipped in crushed vermicelli, and fried in clarified butter, lard or dripping. Friandines de volallle. — Chicken friandines. — de fole-gras. — Goose liver friandines. — de glbler. — Game friandines. — de homard. — Lobster friandines. — aux huitres. — Oyster friandines. — de poisson. — Fish friandines. — de rls de veau. — Sweetbread friandines. Friture d'huitres (Fried Oysters). — Poached oysters, bearded and drained, dipped in batter, fried in boiling lard, and served with fried parsley. Petites Caisses. Caisses are small round or oval-shaped pastry crust, paper, china or silver cases. These are filled with certain savoury mixtures. Petites caisses de Ris de Veau. — Braised sweetbread in cases. — de Champignons (arcis. — Stuffed mushrooms in cases. — de Fole-gras aux trufles. — Goose liver truffled in cases. — ^ la Henri IV. — Chicken souifl6 mixture baked in cases. with mushroom head on top of each. — de Moelle. — Braised marrow fat in cases. — PStis aux Huttres. — Small oyster patties. — aux Alouettes. — Small lark patties. — aax Cailles. — Small quail patties. — t la, Joinville. — Small patties filled with lobster, chicken, and trufile. Petits Pains or Souffles. Pains or darioles are made \vith certain kinds of prepara- tion forcemeat, which are placed in suitable small buttered moulds, and poached in the oven ; usually served with rich white or brown sauces. Pains are made in plain and darioles in fluted moulds, LIGHT ENTR&ES 153 Petlts Pains de Cailles. — Small souffle darioles with quail farced with forcemeat ; served with truffle sauce. — de Foie-gras. — Small goose liver and truffle timbales ; served with madere sauce. — de Jambon. — Small ham souffles (dariole shaped). — SoufQis de Poisson en caisses. — Small fish souffles baked in china or paper cases. — de Volaille i la Cr§me. — Chicken cream souffles baked in china or paper cases. Pilau or Pillaw i I'lndienne. — Braised, boned, and stuffed fowl, cut into small slices, dressed with minced fried onions, mangoes, on small rice shapes ; curry sauce. Pilau h la Turque. — Minced chicken and ham with savoury rice, seasoned with savoury herbs and sherry wine. JRissoles. These are small half-moon shapes of short crust or pufiE-paste, filled with prepared minced fish, meat or game, egged, crumbed, and fried in clarified butter, dripping or lard ; they are garnished with fresh or fried parsley. Rissoles d, la Russe (Russian Rissoles). — Filling : salpicon of minced chicken, tongue, ham, and mushrooms. — ^ ia Moelle de Bceuf. — Rissoles of beef marrow. — de B6casse aux truffes. — Snipe rissoles with truffles. — d la Chasseur. — Venison or other game meat rissoles. — de Foie-gras.— Goose liver rissoles. — de Gibier.^Game rissoles. — a ia Hollandaise. — Oyster and truffle rissoles. — de Homard. — ^Lobster rissoles. — aux Huttres. — Oyster rissoles. — de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread rissoles. — de Volaille i i'lndienne. — Curried fowl rissoles. Ravioles — Ravioli. Ravioies t ia Napoiitaine (Neapolitan Ravioles). — These are very small round flat patties made of nouille paste, and filled with a mixture of grated parmesan cheese, yolks of eggs, and cayenne, poached in stock or baked in the oven, and served with tomato sauce. MOUSSES AND SOUFFLES. (See also Cold Entree Section.) A souffle or mousse usually consists of a very light souffle mixture, and is prepared to be served either hot or cold. Ham mousse, as a rule, is made with pounded cooked or 154 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. raw ham, with panada cream, eggs, and seasoning. As>^ aspic cream is incorporated in the case of cold mouss There are also other and more modern styles of preparing mousse, as indicated by the new formulas. " Mousselines " is applied to smaller shapes or single portion shapes of mousse. Souffle or souffles are also adapted for dishes of this character. Mousse k la Brandimbourg (cold). — York ham, boiled and braised, top half cut off and cut partly in slices, glazed with aspic ; other part pounded with foie-gras and made into mousse ; then refilled with sliced ham and mousse mixture (cold), surface coated with chaudfroid sauce and decorated with'trufHe and white of egg squares to resemble a chessboard. — i la Carmen. — A light ham souffle, centre filled with a salpicon of artichoke bottom, champigncm, and supreme sauce. Pimiento or paprika sauce. — i la Clamart. — Souffle of ham, made &om raw ham, pounded with bechamel, cream, and egg whites and seasoning ; moulded witii centre filled with green pea puree, and poached or steamed ; sauce supreme. — de Jambon en surprise. — Boiled or braised York ham (whole), centre part cut out when cold, and refilled with hot or cold ham mousse ; served with reform sauce when hot, or with Cumberland sauce when served cold. — & la P^rlgourdin. — Mousse of ham, mixed with sliced truffles ; served hot with perigord sauce Mousselines de Jambon k I'Alexandra. — Quenelles of ham, decorated with slices of truffles, poached ; garnished with asparagus tips tossed in butter ; served with cheese-fiavoured allemande sauce. — i la Florentine. — Dariole or timbale shapes of ham mousse, ranged on a border or bed of spinach ; demi-glace sauce. — A, la HongFoise. — Ham quenelles, seasoned with paprika, sauced over with hongroise sauce ; garniture of cauliflower cassolettes. Souflli de Jambon & la Gastronome. — Souffle of ham, mixed with c6pes, morelles or sliced large mush- rooms ; steamed, covered with cliopped truffles, with a wliole truffle on top ; sauce madlre. — h. la Mllanalse. — Ham souffl6, centre filled with salpicon of cooked macaroni, cubes of ham, tongue, truffles, and champignons ; garnished with cheese- flavoured macaroni cut short ; sauce tomato. Souffles de langue en cocotte. — Baked ox-tongue souffles, filled in cocotte pans, with salpicon of cooked sweet- bread, asparagus tips, and peas in centre. LIGHT ENTlijEES. 155 Timbales and Darioles. The wofd timbale means a cup, bowl or beaker, but in cookery it is applied to certain kinds of light fish, meat or game soufSes, cooked in cup, or timbale-shaped moulds, either baked or poached. The moulds are frequently lined with a thin paste, nouille or short crust or with cooked macaroni. Timbale k la Eadoise.— Paste-lined timbale shape filled with ragout of sweetbread, truffles, champignons, and nouille paste. — de Cailles. — Quail timbale. — ^ la Cond6. — Similar to "Badoise timbale,'' but omit- ting the nouille paste ; served hot with mad&e sauce. — il la Clissy. — Chicken farce-lined timbale, with layers of foie-gras, tongue, mushrooms, and truffles, moistened with madere sauce ; may also be made with paste crust lining and filled as above. — ^ la Diane. — Timbale mould lined with game farce, and filled with small game quenelles, truffles, cham- pignons and game fillets ; garnished also with latter, and served with sauce Diane. ^ — de Gibier. — Game timbale. — h 1 'Imp^ratrlce (cold). — Aspic-lined mould, decorated with truffle, etc., filled with foie-gras and chicken mousse, fortified with aspic jelly ; served with cold cucumber sauce. — i la Mirabeau. — Dome-shaped timbale mould, lined with halves of stuffed olives, coated with a layer of duck farce, filled with fillets of duck, champignons, and truffles ; served with mirabeau sauce. — d la D 'Orsay. — Timbale mould lined with nouille paste, and filled with white chicken ragout,, sliced artichoke bottoms, truffles, and champignons ; served with supreme sauce richly seasoned with paprika. — de Perdreau. — Partridge timbale. — d la Relne (cold). — Chicken mousse timbale, hot or cold ; in latter case mould is lined with aspic, and decorated with truffles and pimiento, etc., then masked with white chaudfroid sauce and filled with light chicken mousse. — & la St. Estephe. — Chicken forcemeat and ox-tongue timbales with claret sauce. — d la Talleyrand. — Dome-shaped timbale mould closely lined with cooked macaroni, and filled with tomato and macaroni stew ; served with supreme sauce. — d la Toulouse (cold).- — Timbale mould lined with aspic and decorated, filled with evenly cut salpicon of chicken and sweetbrfiad, mixed with aspic cream, etc. 156 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. MEAT ENTREES. Boeuf—Beef. Cervelle de Boeut (Ox-Brains) en Matelote. — Stewed ox- brain in red wine sauce with braised button onions. — Irlte (Fried). — Blanched, cut into pieces, egged and crumbed, or dipped in frying batter and fried. — au gratin (Baked). — Blanched, placed in a buttered di^, sauced over, breaded, and baked in the oven. ChSteaubriand. — Double fillet, cut very thick, and generally boiled or grilled ; usually served with chateau potatoes. — & la B6arnaise. — Basted with sweet oil and broiled ; served with b^arnaise sauce. — ^ la Chlpolata. — Grilled ; garnished with braised chestnuts, fried pieces of sausages, and mushroom heads ; tomato sauce. — A la Cldrln. — Grilled a. point, sliced truffles fried in butter, and cooked in mad^re sauce ; garnish, pommes allemande, and rondelles of foie-gras dipped in flour and fried in butter (grouped). — 4 la Cordon Rouge. — Basted with oiled butter, seasoned, sprinkled with finely-chopped ham and fresh bread- crumbs, and grilled or broiled ; garnished with sliced trufiBes, brussels sprouts, and small stufEed tomatoes ; demi-glace sauce. - — & la Grecque. — Grilled ; garnished with fried egg-plants (aubergines) ; madere sauce with chopped parsley. — ^ ia Hotelldre. — Grilled, ; sauced over with supreme sauce and a few drops of dissolved meat glaze. — i la Lombardie. — Grilled; garnished with stuffed, baked tomatoes ; maddre sauce. — i la Marquise.— Broiled or grilled in butter ; garnished with artichoke bottoms, filled with small stuffed lettuce. — 4 la Marseillaise. — Broiled or grilled ; surrounded with groups of glazed carrots, button onions, and small pieces of fried calf's feet ; bordelaise sauce. — i la Rosny. — Grilled or broiled in butter ; served with fried slices of cucumber and poivrade sauce. — 4 la V6ron. — Stuffed from the side with " chopped blanched beef-marrow and savoury herbs, basted with sweet oil, and grilled ; served with eschalote sauce. — 4 la Vert-Pr§. — Grilled fillets, glazed, and round of green herb butter on top of each ; garnished with straw potatoes and watercress ; sauce demi-glace. MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). 157 Beef Steak or Small Butnp Steak, Beef Steak t, la Bardoux.— Steaks cut rather thin, dipped in oiled butter, rolled in a mixture of fresh bread- crumbs, chopped beef-marrow and parsley, salt and pepper, fried briskly, and served with brown herb sauce. — 4 la Brisse. — Slightly marinaded and broiled ; served with richly sj)iced tomato sauce, surrounded with small turnip timbales. — d la Godard. — Grilled ; garnished with sliced sweet- breads, mushroom heads, quarters of artichoke bottom, and truffles ; demi-glace sauce. — ik la Soyer. — Thickly cut steaks, dipped in oiled butter, sprinkled with breadcrumbs, iinely chopped chives, parsley, and seasoning, and broiled ; sauce fines herbes. — 4 la Su£doise. — Small steaks cut from rump, seasoned, and cooked in butter ; dressed with onion, finely cut and fried, and garnished with saute potatoes, — 4 la Turinoise. — Grilled ; garnished with small nouilles timbales ; tomato sauce. Entrecdtes — Sirloin Steaks. EntrecSte t la B^arnaise. — Grilled sirloin steak ; served with bearnaise sauce. — au beurre d'AncholS. — Grilled; with anchovy butter. — 4 la Bordelaise (Saut^ed).— -Broiled or grilled, with beef-marrow and bordelaise sauce. — & la Maitre d'Hdtel. — Broiled or saut^ed ; with maitre d'hotel butter. — ' & la Moelle. — Broiled ; with blanched and grilled slices of beef-marrow. — & la Montagu^. — Grilled ; garnished with small stuffed tomatoes, and artichoke bottoms filled with tossed mushrooms. — & la Nicolas.- — Broiled in butter ; dressed in casserole, with whole trufifles and slices of foie-gras. — i la Parisienne. — Broiled or grilled ; spread over with crushed shallot and chopped parsley, lemon-juice and meat glaze, and garnished with marble-shaped fried potatoes. — aux Pommes souRI^es. — With parsley butter, garnished with puff or soufi[i6 potatoes. • — & la Rockaway. — Grilled ; served with fried onion rings and grated horseradish. Note. — For other kinds of dressing and garnish, see Fillets and Tournedos. IS8 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Filets de BoBuf—FiUets of Beef. {See also Tournedos.) Note. — Filets mignons, or coeurs de filets de bcenf, are rather smaller than ordinary fillets, and more closely trimmed than the former. Faux-filet is the name given to fillets cut from other parts, such as rump, sirloin or the rib of beef. All these names are intended to be included under the above heading, the mode of cooking being exactly the same as for ordinary fillets. When no special sauce is quoted, demi-glace or plain gravy should be poured round the base of the dish. Filets de Boeuf i rAmbassadrice. — Grilled or broiled fillets of beef with chicken liver farce, and garnished with financifire ; sauce maddre. — & TAmericaine. — Grilled fillets with fried egg- yolk on top of each, garnished with fried egg-plant; sauce tomate. — A I'Andalouse. — Larded and "braised ; garnished with glazed chestnuts, braised cabbage-lettuces, and tomatoes. — ii I'Ath^nienne. — Larded and braised; served with fried, sliced egg-plants ; madSre sauce. — au beurre d'Anchois, — Broiled or grilled ; with anchovy butter. — d la B^arnalse. — Broiled or grilled ; with bearnaise sauce on fillets, and demi-glace round them. — it la Bordelaise. — Grilled or broiled ; with beef-marrow and bordelaise sauce. — aux Champignons. — With sliced mushrooms (cham- pignons) and brown sauce. — & la Choron. — Broiled or sauteed, with slices of beef- marrow, small artichoke bottoms filled with asparagus points as garnish ; sauce choron. — 4 la Clamart. — Sautfeed or grilled, garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with green pea pur6e ; sauce demi-glace. — 4 la Claremont. — Larded and braised ; served with braised cucumber and tomatoes, and small stuffed onions glazed ; bearnaise and demi-glace sauces. — i la Dauplilne. — Larded and grilled ; garnished with fried cocks' combs, sliced trufSes ; pferigueux sauce. — & la Duchesse. — Grilled or broiled fillets, dressed in duchesse potato border, with chclteaubriand sauce. — aux fines herbes. — Grilled or broiled ; with brown savoury herb sauce. MEAT ENTREES (BEEF). 159 TUets de BoBuf k la Garfield. — Larded and grilled ; served with finely cut julienne strips of ham, tongue, truffles, and mushrooms ; poivrade sauce. ' — 4 la Gouffe. — Larded and fried ; garnished with small beef-marrow toasts ; demi-glace sauce. — k la Grand Veneur. — ^Marinaded fillets, braised, gar- nished with French beans ; sauce Moscpvite. — & la Helder. — Broiled or sauteed fillets with sliced tomatoes tossed in butter, Parisienne potato balls, and bearnaise sauce. — ^ la Jardiniere. — Grilled ; garnished with groups of spring vegetables. — ^ la Judic. — Sauteed or grilled fillets with braised lettuce, and gravy. — i la Maltre d'H6tel. — Grilled ; with parsley butter. — au Malaga. — Barded and braised ; dressed with madere or marsala wine sauce ; garnished with potato croquets done up in the shape of grapes, with nouille paste stalks inserted, and fried. — ^ la Marinade.— Larded and marinaded in vinegar wine and herbs ; grilled or braised ; poivrade sauce. — a la Mirabeau. — Broiled ; garnished with fried eggs, tarragon leaves, and anchovy fillets on fillets of beef ; group of truffles and champignons around dish ; madere sauce. — k la Moscovite. — Larded ; placed in Rhine wine mari- nade, and braised or sauteed ; served with madere sauce, and garnished with chopped and rolled almonds. — £l. la Nicolas. — Sauteed or grilled fillets, with a slice of foie-gras and truffles on top ; sauce madere. — aux Olives farcies. — ^Grilled ; with stuffed olives. — ^ la Palmeritaine. — Larded and broiled, and garnished with stuffed aubergines and mashed potatoes. — i la Parisienne. — Grilled fillets, garnished with aspara- gus tips and potato balls ; bearnaise sauce and gravy (jus 116). — 4 la Polonaise. — Finely chopped lean beef and chopped suet, seasoned, and shaped like fillets ; egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ; garnished with small rounds of fried potatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Pompadour. — Sauteed or broiled v/ith slices of tomatoes tossed in butter ; noisette potatoes, and choron sauce. -=-4 la Provencal*. — Grilled ; garnished with stuffed mushrooms and tomatoes ; demi-glace or madere sauce. — & la Jtossini. — Sauteed or grilled fillets, with slice of foie-gras and truffle on top of each ; sauce perigueux i6o PRACTICAL GASTliONOMV. Filets de BcBuI 4 la Slcllienne. — Grilled ; served with rings of fried onion ; sauce madfere. — 4 la Sigurd. — Larded filletof beef, marinaded in madere, and braised ; garnished with small potato cassolettes filled with asparagus-point puree, sauteed artichoke bottoms cut in dice, chestnut croquettes, and mush- room heads. — 4 la St. Jean. — Broiled or sauteed ; garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with tossed tomato dice, and covered with b^arnaise, with farced olive on top ; derai-glace sauce — aux truffes. — Broiled or grilled ; served with brown sauce containing sliced truffles. — ik la Theodora. — Broiled ; dressed on a bed of mush- room puree, sprinkled with finely chopped herbs, garnished with olive-shaped fried potatoes and truffles, sauced over with nut-brown butter and Worcester sauce. — ^ la Toreador. — Grilled, rather underdone ; garnished with sauteed fresh mushrooms and Spanish pimi en tos ; tomato sauce. — k\3, Viennoise. — Fillet or other tender lean beef chopped finely and shaped into small fillets, fried in butter, garnished with onion puree and fried onion rings ; brown sauce. — d la Wellingtoii. — Tossed in butter over a brisk fire, cooled and wrapped carefully in thinly rolled-out puff- paste, with a layer of fines herbes spread over the fillets ; brush over the paste with egg-yolk, and bake in moderate oven lo to 15 minutes ; dress on potato puree (socle), garnish with green peas, French beans, truffles, and potatoes cut in cubes and tossed in butter. Tournedos de Bceuf. (See also Fillets of Beef.) Unless otherwise stated, all tournedos are to be broiled or tossed in butter over a fairly quick fire. Tournedos de Bceuf. — Small fillets of beef, trimmed into oval shapes, weighing about two ounces. They are usually dressed on croutons of fried bread. — & I'Arl6slenne. — Tournedos dressed on croutons sauced over with demi-glace containing juliennt strips of celery. — 4 1' Alexandra. — Larded, braised, and glazed ; dressed on croutons with slice of truffle on each ; garnished with quarters of artichokes ; sauce pferigueux. MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). i6i Tournedos de BoeuJ it TArmand.— Grilled ; dressed on fried bread crouton, covered with foie-gras puree ; garnished with souffle potatoes and slices of truffles ; sauce bordelaise, — braisfis au C616rl.— Larded fillets of beef braised with celery, and finished in rich brown sauce ; dressed on croutons in a circle, with braised celery in centre. — !l la Chasseur.^Slightly marinaded, fried in butter, and served with chasseur sauce, — 4 la Colbert. — Fried in equal parts of sweet oil and butter, dished up in circle, centre of dish fiUfed with small rounds of fried potatoes; eschalot sauce, reduced with sherry wine. — i la Drexel. — Grilled, dressed on fried bread croutons ' coated with bearnaise sauce, border of each fillet garnished with tomato pur^e, slice of truffle in centre, and dish surrounded with straw potatoes (pommes pailles). — 4 I'Elysie. — Slice of braised sweetbread and mushroom head on each tournedo, with a, border of bearnaise sauce. — d I'Empereur. — Broiled in butter, dressed on fried bread croutons, with half a grilled tomato and a sinall piece of grilled marrow on each; garnished, with asparagus points and noisette potatoes ; sauce ■ perigueux. — ^ la Favorite. — Grilled, dressed on croutons, with slice of foie-gras ; garnished with truffles and asparagus points ; sauce madere. — d la Gabrielle. — Sauteed, dressed oh rounds of puff pastry of similar size, covered with light chicken puree ; garnished with truffles, green peas, and straw potatqes ; sauces bearnaise and demi-glace. — & la Grand Hdtel. — Grilled, dressed on croutons of rice of same size, slices of foie-gras and asparagus points ; sauce madere. — jl la Helder. — Broiled in butter, dressed on croutons, with bearnaise sauce as border of each tournedo, and tomato puree in centre ; surrounded with noisette potatoes. — d la Khedive. — Sauteed tournedos, dressed on slices of foie-gras of same shape ; garniture, tossed tomatoes in butter, asparagus pomts, champignon heads ; sauces, madSre and horseradish cream. — i la MacMabon. — Grilled, garnislied with slices of truffles, flageolets, and chateau potatoes ; sauce madSre. — d la Menagdre. — Tournedos dressed on a border of duchess potato (puree), centre filled with braised- carrots and turnips (olive shape), button onions, and noisette potatoes ; sauce demi-glace. i62 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Tournedos de Bceuf i. la Mercid^s. — Coated with artichoke puree and mushroom heads ; sauce, demi-glace or madSre. — ^ la Merldlonale. — Grilled, garnished with sorrel, stuffed tomatoes, green peas, and cepes ; plain gravy. — i la Mikado. — Grilled and garnished with half a stuffed and baked tomato on each tournedo ; sauce madSre. — i la Mireille. — Tournedos dressed on croutons of brioche paste ; garnished with asparagus points ; sauce tomate. — il la Monaco. — Tournedos dressed on bread croutons spread with foie-gras farce ; garnished with mush- room heads and slices of tongue ; demi-glace sauce. — i la Motmonrency. — Tournedos placed on rice croutons ; garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with asparagus points ; plain gravy. — & la Monte Carlo. — Garnished with slice of foie-gras and trutSe on top of each, ^nd dish surrounded with fried slices of sweetbread and fried calf 's brain ; sauce madere. — ^ la Nelson. — Par-fried tournedos, finished in casserole, with braised button onions, demi-glace or maddre sauce, and dice of fried potatoes. — ik la Nesselrode. — Garnished with chestnut purfee, potato chips, sauced round with demi-glace. — ft la NiQOlse. — Sauteed beef fillets dressed on croutons ; garnished with small French beans and small tossed tomatoes ; sauce, demi-glace, — ft I'Orsay. — Tournedos dressed on croutons, garnished with stoned olives, mushrooms, and chateau potatoes ; sauce maddre. — k 1 'Othello. — Poached or fried egg on each tournedo, with p^rigueux sauce. — ft la Farlsienne. — Broiled, with a garnish of asparagus points, noisette potatoes, and bearnaise sauce. — ft la Pl^montalse. — Tournedos dressed on croutons, garnished with small timbales of rice mixed with chopped truffles, with mushroom head on each ; sauce demi-glace. — ft la Pompadour. — Tournedos spread with tomato puree, with a slice of fried ham and a slice of truffle on top of each ; clear gravy. — ft la Prince Murat. — Small fillets of beef and slices of raw foie-gras, of similar size, broiled separately, dressed together on bread croutons ; garnished with turned Spanish olives, stuffed with farce de champig- nons and olive-shaped potatoes baked in butter ; sauced over with tomato and mad^e blended sauce. — ft la Qulrlnal.— Tournedos dressed on croutons, spread with duralle or champignon pur6e ; garnished with straw potatoes ; sauce madere, MEAT ENTRIES (BEEF). 163 Tournedos de Bceul 4 la Rachel. — Tournedos dressed on artichoke bottoms, sauced over with beef-marrow sauce (moelle). — ^ la Rlche. — Artichoke bottoms, filled with green peas, placed on each tournedo, with a slice of truffle on top ; sauce chorrou. — sk la Savoisienne, — Braised tournedos done in casserole, with demi-glace sauce, ' small button onions, cham- pignons, green peas, and chateau potatoes. — i la Scribe. — Tournedos dressed on croutons of rice, spread over with foie-gras puree ; sauce madSre. — 4 la Strasbourgeoise. — Slice of braised foie-gras and a slice of smoked sausage on each tournedo ; sauce maddre. — d la Thiers. — Par-fried tournedos finished in casserole, with braised button onions, slices of truffles, stoned olives, and brown sauce flavoured with sauterne. — !t la Troja. — Grilled tournedos with anchovy fillet and slice of truffle on top of each ; when cold enclosed in brioche paste and baked in a quick oven ; served with madere sauce, containing finely cut strips of trufae. — & la Vallidre. — Sauteed and dressed on croutons, coated with demi-glace sauce, containing julienne strips of truffle, mushrooms, and tongue. — 4 la Victoria. — Grilled tournedos of beef, garnished with broiled small cup mushrooms, filled with bearnaise sauce ; served with truffle sauce. Beignets de Boeut i la Minute. — Cold roast beef cut in strips, seasoned, dipped in frying batter, and fried in deep fat. Boeuf santfi 4 la Bourgeolse. — Coarsely minced broiled beef with braised button onions ; brown sauce. — 4 la Flamande. — Braised pieces of rump ' of beef ; garnished with stuffed spring cabbages ; brown sauce. Carbonade de boeuf 4 la Flamande. — Thin slices of lean beef stewed in casserole, in rich brown sauce, with minced onions, neatly shaped, plain boiled potatoes placed on top of stew ; served in casserole. Croquettes de Boeuf i I'Anglalse (Beef Croquettes). — Finely minced cooked beef, made into square, cork, cutlet or ball shapes, egged, crumbed, and fried. — i I'ltallenne. — Fried beef croquettes with Italian sauce. Culottes de Boeuf, Malntenon.— Braised beef cut in slices and dressed in pyramids ; garnished with small timbales of nouilles ; seasoned with soubise and duchesse potatoes ; sauce demi-glace. Fricot de Boeuf i la Charles X. — Braised rump steak, when cold cut into strips ; egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with a brown eschalot sauce. l64 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Pricot de Bceuf i I'Indlenne. — Curried beef stew, served with boiled rice. — 4 I'Irelandaise. — Stewed beef with potatoes cut in cubes, and onions ; brown sauce. Goulasch de Boeuf. — Lean beef cut in dice shapes, and tossed in butter ; mixed with dice-shaped potatoes ; seasoned with paprika, and finished in brown sauce. — d ia Herzigovine. — Saute of beef, sliced finely, and fried onions ; tomato sauce and elaret flavour ; seasoned with salt and paprika ; garnished with small rounds of fried potatoes. — 4 la Polonaise. — Sliced beef, stewed, with fried bacon and potato cut in dice ; seasoned with Hungarian red pepper. HSchls de Bceuf t la Fran^aise. — Sliced cold beef braised in butter and finely chopped onions, finished in brown sauce and chopped parsley. — & I'Anglalse. — ^Minced or hashed beef with poached eggs ; garnished with fried bread sippets. Langue de Bceuf— Ox-tongue. Langue de Boeuf d, la Flamande. — Braised ox-tongue, garnished with groups of cooked carrots, turnips, green peas, French beans, and braised spring cabbage ; sauced over with brown sauce. — fum^e aux petlts pels. — Smoked, braised ox-tongue, with green peas. — au gratln (Baked Ox-Tongue). — Sliced boiled ox- tongue dressed on a buttered baking-dish, with a mixture of brown sauce, breadcrumbs, chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms, yolks of eggs, and fresh butter, baked in a quick oven, and served on the dish it is baked in, — t I 'Indienne. — Curried ox- tongue with boiled rice. — & la NapoUtalne.i — Braised ox-tongue with stewed macaroni, tomato pur^e, and parmesan cheese. . — au Parmesan. — Boiled ox-tongue sliced, arranged on a gratin dish, with a mixture of white sauce, grated parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, chopped shallots, and fresh butter, baked in a quick oven. — & la Robert. — Braised ox-tongue with brown onion sauce. — ^ la Romalne. — Braised pickled ox-tongue, served with a sauce composed of espagnole sauce, white wine, blanched currants, sultanas, Italian pine-seeds (pignolis), flavoured with chilli vinegar and castor sugar. Mlroton de Boeuf. — Sliced cooked beef broiled in butter and chopped onions, and stewed in brown sauce. MEAT ENTRIES {BEEF). 165 Moix de Boeaf 4 la Bourgeoise. — Braised piece of kernel or cushion of beef larded, finished in axichly flavoured brown sauce witli a little tomato puree, garnished with braised carrots and button onions. — ft I'^touflade. — Kernel of beef with brown sauce, stewed in the oven. Olives de Boeuf 4 I'Anglaise. — Thin slices of rump steak spread over with suet stuffing, rolled and braised, served with richly flavoured brown sauce, chopped parsley, and thin slices of fried bacon. Oreilles de Boeuf ft la Sainte-Men^hould. — Boiled pickled ox-ears, when cold dipped in batter and fried in deep fat. Paupiettes de Boeuf ft la Richelieu. — Sliced fillets of beef spread with forcemeat, rolled and braised ; garnished with forcemeat quenelles, truffles, mushrooms ; served with Richelieu sauce. Palais de Boeuf— Ox-palate. Palais de Boeuf au gratin. — Braised ox-palates prepared and baked in gratin style — grilles. — Pickled ox-palates egged and crumbed, dipped in oiled butter and grilled, served with a piquant tomato sauce. — ft I'lndienne. — Curried ox-palate with boiled rice. — ft ritalienne. — Stewed ox-palates dished up in a circle with fried bread croutons ; Italian sauce. — aux Macaroni. — Braised ox-palates with macaroni. — ft I'Orly. — Stewed ox-palates; when cold spread with forcemeat mixed with savoury herbs, rolled, coated with white sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tomato sauce. — ft la Ravigote. — Stewed ox-palates dressed in a border of fried bread,; sauced over with ravigote sauce. Poltrlne de Bceuf frite ft la Sainte-Men61iouId. — Boned and braised breast of beef cut into slices, egged, crumbed, and fried in deep fat. Queue de Scettf— Ox-tail. Queue de Boeuf, brais^e aux Olives. — Braised ox-tail with turned olives and brown sauce. — aux Haricots Verts. — Stewed ox-tail, garnished with French beans. — ft la Hotch-potch. — Hotch-potch ox-tail stew, garnished with glazed carrots and small onions (a national Scotch dish). i66 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Queue de Boeuf aux Pefits Pols. — Stewed ox-tail, with green peas in centre of dish. — d la Polonaise. — Braised ox-tail, with rich brown sauce ; garnished with cauliflower buds, tossed in brown butter, and besprinkled with brown breadcrumbs. Haricots de Queue de Boeut. — Stewed ox-tail, with braised carrots and turnips neatly shaped, small onions, and white haricot beans. Veavr—Veal. Ballotine de Veau farcie. — Stuffed rolled breast of veal, braised ; served with demi-glace sauce. Blanquette de Veau t rAlIemande.— Fillet or breast of veal with sliced mushrooms stewed in white sauce. — aux concombres. — Stewed veal in white sauce with cubes of braised cucumber. — k \ 'Indlenne. — Stewed "veal in white sauce flavoured with curry ; served in'border of rice. — k la, Poulette. — Stewed veal with sliced mushrooms in white sauce with finely chopped parsley- — aux truffes. — Stewed veal in white sauce with sliced truffles. Carr6 de Veau pique aux petits pois. — Neck of veal larded and braised, with green peas. — piqu6 t la Creme Aigre. — Braised larded neck of veal with sour cream sauce (sauce creme aigre). — la Purte de Tomate.— Braised neck of veal with tomato sauce. Cetelettes de Veau or C6tes de (Veal Cutlets).— Cotes or cutlets of veal should be cut from the neck or loin ; cutlets, however, should be trimmed with the bone left on, and in consequence can only be obtained from the neck. (See also Filets de Veau.) — 4 TAllemande. — Breaded veal cutlets fried in butter, dressed round potato puree ; sauce demi-glace. — k I'Anglaise. — Breaded veal cutlets .grilled ; garnished with potatoes fried or tossed in butter. — en Belle-Vue (Cold).— Fillets or cutlets of veal cooked set in aspic, coated with chaudfroid sauce ; garnished with truffles and jardinidre. — 4 la Bordelaise.— Broiled veal cutlets, dished up on fried bread croutons, with stewed c6pes in centre ; sauce bordelaise. — au Chicorte.— Broiled veal cutlets with mashed or braised chicory. ' ' MEAT ENTRIES (VEAL). 167 CStelettes de Veau A, la Cracovie.^^Broiled veal cutlets, larded with strips of anchovy fillets ; sauce madfere. — en Cr^pinettes. — ^Veal cutlets wrapped in pig's caul, egged, crumbed, and fried ; demi-glace or plain gravy. — i la Dauphine. — Veal cutlets stuffed with chopped tongue and truffles ; garnished with potato cro- quettes ; perigueux sauce. — i la Demi-glace. — Veal cutlets fried or grilled ; served^ with brown, i.e., demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Dreux. — Broiled veal cutlets la;rded with tongue, streaky bacon, and pickled gherkins ; served with a garniture of sliced mushrooms and sweetbread; sauce tomate. — aux Epinards.— Broiled veal cutlets with mashed spinach. — 4 I'Ecarlate. — Plain broiled veal cutlets, dressed alternately with heart-shaoed slices of ox-tongue ; sauce tomate. — gr!116es. — Plain grilled veal cutlets. — h ritalienne. — Plain broiled veal cutlets with Italian sauce. — & la Lorgnette. — Egged, crumbed, and fried veal cutlets ; garnished with rings of onions dipped in milk and flour, and fried in clarified butter. — !k la Maitre d'HStel. — Plain broiled veal cutlets served with ihaitre d'hotel butter. — • ^ la Marfichal." — Egged and cheese-crumbed veal cutlets fried ; served with bigarade sauce. — ^ la Milanaise.^ — Veal cutlets,- garnished with macaxoni, stewed in tomato sauce and parmesan cheese. — au naturel. — Plain broiled or grilled veal cutlets. — pannes. — Breaded and fried veal cutlets. — en papillotes. — Stuffed veal cutlets braised, served in paper cases. — i, la Parjarskl. — Cutlet shapes of minced veal, egged, crumbed, and fried ; sauces demi-glace and tomate. — i la Parma. — Veal cutlets egged and crumbed in grated parmesan cheese, and fried ; tomato or demi- glace sauce. — i la Prusse. — Veal cutlets spread with a mixture of truffles and finely chopped shallots braised. — & la Beine. — Veal cutlets egged and crumbed, broiled in butter ; served with demi-glace sauce, truffles, and ' preserved mushrooms. — saut^es au beurre. — Veal cutlets broiled in butter ; served with plain gravy. — 4 la Singarat. — Veal cutlets, larded with small strips of smoked ox-tongue, and braised. l6S PRACTICAL CASTRONOMY. C6tclettes de Veau jk !a Soubise. — Egged, crumbed, and fried veal cutlets ; served with white onion puree. — 4 la Salnt-CIoud.^Veal cutlets, larded with strips oif truffles, broiled in fresh butter, and garnished with forcemeat quenelles ; sauce allemande. — ^ la Zingara. — Fried veal cutlets dished up alternately with cutlet-shaped slices of broiled ham ; sauce mad^re. Cervelle de Veau. — Calf's brain. — au beignets. — Calf's brain fritters. — au beurie nolr. — Poached calf's brain ; served with nut-brown butter (beurre noisette). — ^ la Demi-glace.— Calf's brain blanched and cooked in brown sauce. — 4 la Financiere. — Boiled calf's brain with a rich financi^re sauce and garniture. — Iriture or frites. — Fried calf's brain. — au gratin. — Calf's brain prepared with white sauce, dressed on. dish, and browned in oven. — aux huitres. — Calf's brain stewed with oysters and chopped parsley. — 4 la Milanalse. — Fried calf's brain served with macaroni and tomato sauce ; garnished with ham, tongue, finely shredded mushrooms, and truffles. — & la Ravigote. — Fried calf's. brain with savoury herb sauce. — & la Tartare. — B'ried calf's brain served with tartare sauce. Souffle de Cervelle do Veau. — Calf's brain souffle, baked in paper cases or shells. Escalopes de Veau are fillets of veal cut into cutlet, round, oval, or heart shapes, flattened and trimmed. seasoned, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter. — aux asperges. — With stewed asparagus points. — aux 6pi!iards. — With spinach as garnish. — 4 la Holstein. — Garnished with slices of hard-boiled egg, anchovy fillets, gherkins, and capers. — au jambon. — With fried or broiled slices of ham. — £k la Pirigord. — Larded with truffles and bacon, and fried ; served with madftre sauce. — aux petlts pois. — With green peas. — i la Savoisienne. — Dressed in the centre of a border of small savoury rice timbales ; sauce, demi-glace and tomato. — ^ la Toinate. — Served with tomato pur6e. — ik la Viennoise. — Served with brown sauce ; garnished with gherkins, olives, capers, fillets of anchovies, and hard-boiled egg. MEAT ENTRi:ES (VEAL). 169 Foie de Veau—Calf's Liver. Fole de Veau sautt a TAllemande. — Sliced calf's liver tossed in butter, with brown savoury sauce. — ib I'Anglaise. — Fried calf's liver with slices of bacon and brown sauce. — & la Bourgeoise. — Slices of calf's liver larded and braised ; garnished with braised carrots and button onions ; sauce demi-glace. — bralsi k 1 'Itallenne. — Braised calf's liver with brown sauce containing tomato puree, chopped shallots, and mushrooms. —: pan£. — Breaded, i.e., egged or crumbed, calf's liver fried. — piqui. — Larded calf's liver braised. — rStl. — Roast calf's liver. — sant6, sauce piquante. — Stewed or tossed calf's liver with piquante sauce. — frit A, la Tomate-. — Fried calf's liver with tomato sauce. Quenelles de Foie de Veau. — Calf's liver quenelles poached and served with brown sauce. Fricandeau de Veau. — Cushion or kernel of veal, braised. — aux Champignons. — Served with stewed mushrooms. — d la Mac6dolne. — Larded and braised cushion piece of veal ; garnished with fancifully cut vegetables called macedoine de legumes. — au naturel. — Braised and served with plain gravy. — ^ la Regence. — Larded, braised, and glazed with its own gravy reduced ; garnished with veal quenelles, slices of sweetbread, mushrooms and truffles ; sauce madfire. — il la Tomate. — Served with stewed tomatoes and tomato sauce. Fricandelles de Veau, Sauee Tomate. — Small veal force- meat dumplings, boiled, drained, and when cold egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tomato sauce. — au gratin. — ^Veal forcemeat dumplings, boiled, placed in a buttered dish, covered with white sauce and breadcrumbs ; browned in the oven. JFilets de Veau — Veal Fillets, Filets de Veau t la Bechamel. — Fillets of veal, par-boiled and stewed in bechamel sauce. — i la Franpaise. — Braised, fillets of veal, served with a brown sauce, blended with tomato pur6e. J70 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. FUets de Veau farcl k la PranpaJse.— Larded fiiJets ot veal stuffed, rolled, and braised; served with brown sauce and marble-sliaped fried potatoes. — aiu Haricot Verts.— Broiled fillets oi veal with French beans. — d la MUsnafse. — ^Fried fillets of veal, garnished with stewed macaroni mixed with white sauce, parmesan cheese, and finely shredded ox-tongue ; tomato sauce. — i I'OselUe. — Small veal fillets t>roiled, and served with sorrel puree, gravy or demi-glace sauce. — a la Purte de Concombres.— Broiled fillets of veal with mashed cucumber. — r6ti aux Pommes Pailles.— Roast fillet of veal, larded ; garnished with very finely cut strips of fried potatoes. — & la Talleyrand. — Small circular or oval slices of veal fillets fried in butter, and finished by cooking in a cream sauce flavoured with lemon juice and shallots, and enriched with egg-yolks. Fricassee de Veau i I'Anglaise. — Stewed veal in white sauce with sliced preserved mushrooms ; served with thin slices of fried bacon. — it I'Allemande. — Stewed pieces of breast of veal in white sauce, garnished with small quenelles^ crayfish tails, asparagus, and sprigs of cauliflower. G&teau de Veau aux trufles. — Savoury veal cake, baked and served with truffle sauce. — au bain-marie. — Veal cake, poached or steamed ; served with white sauce. Goulache de Veau i la Hongroise. — Finely cut broiled veal with pepper sauce. Grenadins de Veau. — Larded veal fillets (collops), broiled or braised. — aux Spinards. — .Braised veal fillets with spinach purfee. — & la Fermlere. — Garnished with groups of cooked carrots, lettuce, cauliflower, and small round fried potatoes ; sauce demi-glace. — aux petits pols. — With green peas. — il la Tomate.^-With tomato sauce or garnished with fried tomatoes. Timbales de Godiveau. — A kind of small pudding made of veal forcemeat, steamed ; served with white sauce. Haricot de Veau & I'Anglaise. — Stewed pieces of neck of veal, with braised button onions, green peas, carrots, and turnips ; brown sauce. HSchis de Veau. — Minced veal, cooked in white sauce. MEAT ENTRAes (VEAL). 171 Langue de Veau — Calf's Tongue. Langue de Veau aux epinards. — Calf's tongue, with spinach. — au gratin, — Cooked calf's tongue sliced, dressed on dish, and baked with brown sauce. — a I'ltallenne. — Boiled pickled calf's tongue with Italian sauce. ' — en papillotes. — Braised calf's tongue in paper cases. — aux petits pois. — Braised calf's tongue with green peas. — a la Polvrade. — Braised calf's tongue with brown pepper sauce. — aux pointes d'asperges. — With asparagus points. — & la Tartaie. — Cooked veal tongues, cut in halves, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tartare sauce. Longe de Veau— Loin of Veal. Longe de Veau k I'Anglaise. — Loin of veal stuffed with forcemeat and savoury herl?s ; served with fried or grilled slices of bacon. — d I'Allemande. — Braised loin of veal, boned, and stuSed with veal forcemeat and bacon. — 4 la FrauQaise. — Braised loin of veal, boned, and stufied ; served with stuffed tomatoes and potato croquettes. — ^ la Montglas. — Braised loin of veal, larded, garnished with tongue, truffles, chicken fillet, and mushrooms cut in dice or shreds ; sauce demi-glace. — ^ la Provenyale. — Roast loin of veal, stuffed with minced onions and pork forcemeat ; served with stuffed tomatoes ; sauce proven9ale. Mous de Veau Si I'lndienne. — Calf's lungs, stewed in curry sauce, and served with boiled rice. Noix de Veau— Kernel of Veal. Noix de Veau piquee k la Bechamel. — Larded kernel or cushion of veal, braised white ; served with b6chamel sauce. — ^ la Financiere. — Stewed whole with cocks' combs, cocks' kernels, sliced mushrooms, and truffles ; sauce demi-glace or financiere. — ^ la Gendarme. — Larded and roasted ; served with a, highly spiced brown sauce reduced with chilli vinegar and tomato puree. — 4 la Jardiniere.— Larded and braised ; garnished with groups of small spring vegetables. — & la Lyonnaise. — Braised ; garnished with stuffed braised onions, glazed chestnuts, and small pieces of fried sausages. 172 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Noix de Veau piqufie i la Montpensier. — Braised cushion or kernel of veal, larded with truffles and bacon. — 4 la Napolitaine. — Stewed or braised with macaroni and timbales ; tomato sauce. — a la Nivernalse.— Braised ; garnished with braised turnips ; sauce espagnole reduced with white wine. — & la Sarde. — Larded and braised ; garnished with baked, parboiled ravioli, previously filled with spinach and parmesan cheese. — piquie i la Tiianon. — Larded and braised ; served with a puree of chestnuts and demi-glace sauce. — & la Westphalle. — Braised with slices of Westphalian ham. Paupiettes de Veau aux Champignons.— Rolled fillets of veal, larded and braised ; served with sliced mush- rooms and brown sauce. — aux tomates farcies. — Served with braised stuffed tomatoes. Pieds de Veau— Calf s Feet. Pieds de Veau en fricassee. — Stewed in white sauce with sliced mushrooms. — & la Poulette. — Boiled and stewed in white sauce, sliced mushrooms, and chopped parsley. — frits i, la Tyrolienne. — Fried calf's feet with tomato sauce. — a la Vinaigrette. — Boiled in stock, dressed and served with vinaigrette sauce. Olives de Veau— Veal Olives. Olives de Veau.- — Slices of lean veal, spread over with savoury forcemeat, rolled up like olives, and stewed in white or brown sauce. — k I'Anglaise. — Small olive-shaped rolls of thin sUces' of fillet of veal, stuffed with veal forcemeat and bacon, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with brown sauce and fried slices of bacon Oreilles de Veau— Calf s Ears. Orellies de Veau farcies, sauce tomate. — Stuffed with forcemeat and baked, and tomato sauce, — ^ la Lyonnalse. — Boiled, cut into strips, stewed in brown sauce, and served with fried onion rings and bread croutons. — ^ la Tomate. — Calf's ears fried with tomato sauce. MEAT ENTRIES (VEAL). 173 Queue de Veau — Calf's tail. — A I'AIIeniande. — Calf's tail stewed in white sauce. — i, I 'Indlenne. — Curried calf's tail with rice. RagoQt de Veau.— Pieces of breast or other parts of veal fried and stewed in brown sauce, with sliced mush- rooms, carrots, turnips, and button onions. Mis de Veau— Sweetbread, Ris de Veau k la Car§me. — Braised sweetbread, stuffed with^ taushroom and trilfifJe puree, coated with supreme or velout6 sauce, dished and breaded with cheesecrumbs, and browned in oven. — d la Chasseur. — Stewed in brown sauce ; served in a border of puree of game. — ^ la Chicor€e. — With chicory or endive puree. — ^ la Colbert. — rSlices of cooked sweetbread, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with, fresh breadcrumbs, and broiled ; served with Colbert sauce. — i la Comtesse. — Braised, garnished with^ small puff- paste bouchees filled with vegetable macedoine tossed in butter, — i la Creme sur Bordure de Riz. — White sweetbread stew ; served on a border of rice. — d la Pauphine. — Larded and braised ; serve'd with potato croquettes and sori^el puree-. — en Demi-Deuil. — Braised sweetbreads, larded with black truffles only, — a la Duxelles. — Slices of sweetbread, coated with veloute sauce, mixed with chopped parsley, ox- tongue, and mushrooms, breaded and fried ; sauce supreme. — aux £pinards. — ^Braised sweetbread with spinach. — frit, sauce tomate. — Fried sweetbread with tomato sauce. — ^ la Finanddre.— Same as " Toulouse," but garniture is prepared in brown Madeira sauce, — 4 la Gentilhomme. — Larded with bacon and truffle, and braised ; served with perigord sauce. — & la Godard. — The same as "Financiere;" with addi- tion of stuffed "olives. — k I'ltalienne. — Fried sweetbread, masked with white sauce and breaded ; Italian sauce. — ^ la Jardiniere. — Larded and braised, with neatly cut groups of spring vegetables ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Matlgnon. — Parboiled, slightly marinaded in white wine and savoury herbs seasoning, and braised ; served with demi-glace sauce. 174 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. .'.\^ Ris do Veau i la Mllaaaise.^Larded, braised and gla2,<",d ; served with stewed macaroni, flavoured with parmesan cheese, and mingled with shreds of ox-tongue, mush- rooms, and truffles ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Montpensier. — Larded and braised ; served in a, border of rice with truffles. — i rOsellle. — Braised sweetbread with sorrel puree. — en papUlotes. — Braised sweetbread, served in paper cases. — aux petits pols. — Braised sweetbread with green peas. — plqu6 aux champignons. — Larded and braised, with mushrooms ; demi-glace sauce. — aux pointes d'asperges. — With asparagus points. — & la Rachel. — Larded and braised ; garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with finely shredded truffles. — k la St. Cloud. — Braised sweetbread, larded, served with tomato sauce and sliced truffles. — & la Senn (invented by M. A. Meyer, New York). — Par-boiled, slit in two, dipped in butter and crumbed, and broiled in butter ; garnished with straw potatoes and watercress ; served with tarragon-flavoured butter sauce enriched with beef extract. — d la Talleyrand. — Larded and braised ; dressed on spinach or chicory pur6e ; truffle sauce. — & la Tomate. — Braised sweetbread with stewed toma- toes, and tomato sauce. — 4 la Toulouse. — Larded and braised white ; served with truffles, chicken quenelles, and cocks' combs ; pre- pared in allemande sauce ; garnished with fried bread croutons or fleurons. — & la Tnrque. — Blanched and braised, cut into slices, then egged, crumbed, and fried ; sauce tomate. au Vol-au-Vent. — White sweetbread stew in a light puff-paste crust. — !l la Vllleroi. — Braised sweetbread, sliced, coated with veloute sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ; garnished with fried parsley ; tomato sauce. Belgnets de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread fritters. CoquiUes de Rls de Veau. — Sweetbread stew, baked in shells. Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Huttres. — Slices of fried sweetbread, with stewed oysters as garnish. — ^ la Dorla. — Slices of braised sweetbread,, finished in veloutfe sauce ; garnished with cooked cucumber slices. HStelettes de Rls de Veau. — Larded sweetbread fried, grilled or broiled on silver skewers. PapUlotes de Veau i la Malntenon. — Boned veal cutlets, fried in butter, stufied with forcemeat and savoury herbs, wrapped in paper, and baked ; served with fried parsley. MEAT ENTRIES {VEAL). 175 Mdgnon ite Veaw—Valfs Kidney. RSgnon de Veau k la Bordelaise.— Fried and stewed ; red wine sauce with chopped shallots and parsley, and dice shapes of fried potatoes. ■■ — 4 la Demldofl.— Sliced, fried in butter, with sliced mushrooms, chopped parsley, and stewed in sauce madSre ; dressed in border of stewed rice mixed with truffles. — en Demi-glace. — Veal kidneys, larded and braised whole ; served with demi-glace sauce — grinds. — Grilled veal kidneys, cut in halves and served with fried bacon. — 4 la Maitre d'HStel. — Stewed veal kidneys with sliced mushrooms and chopped parsley. — saut6s. — Thinly sliced veal kidney, tossed in butter, and stewed with onion sauce. — sautes au Vln blanc. — Sliced, sauteed, and stewed in white wine sauce. — sautes au Vln rouge. — Sliced, sauteed, and stewed in red wine sauce. Roulade de Veau au Madere. — Rolled fillet or boned loin of veal, stuffed and braised ; served with madSre sauce. Sauti de Veau ^ la Marengo. — Slices of cushion, neck, or loin of veal, fried and stewed, with sliced mushrooms, chopped shallots, tomato and espagnole sauce ; flavoured with sherry wine ; dished up in pyramid form ; garnished with eggs fried whole in very hot sweet oil, and bread croutons. Tendrons de Veau. — Veal gristles, or veal tendrons, cut off the thick end of the breast of veal and fried, and stewed in brown sauce. — aux Concombres. — Braised and garnished with stewed cucumbers. — k 1 'Indienne. — Stewed in curry sauce with slices of fried bacon and boiled rice. — 4 la Provenijale. — Fried in salad oil with finely chopped onions and herbs, drained, and stewed in a brown onion sauce. — frits k la Suisse. — Braised ; when cold cut into one inch thick slices, egged, crumbed, and fried ; tomato sauce. — au Velout^. — Braised white and stewed in veloute sauce. — i la Villerol. — Braised ; when cold, cut into slices, soaked in marinade, drained, dipped in frying batter, and fried : tomato sauced 176 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Tete de Veau — Calfs Head. T6te de Veau t I'Amirieaine. — Stewed in tomato sauce, with peeled tomatoes, chopped parsley, and fennel. — & I'Anglalse. — Stewed in brown sauce, garnished with calf's brain fritters and sippets of bread. — & la Destilllire. — Stewed in brown sauce with sliced ox-tongue, gherkins and mushrooms ; garnished with pieces of calf's brain and slices of pickled beetroot. — Escalopes (de). — Boiled, cut in slices, steeped in oil and vinegar, sprinkled with chopped parsley, dipped in batter and fried. — trite k la Tartare. — ^Boiled, cut in pieces, pickled, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with tartare sauce. — en fricassee. — Stewed in white sauce with sliced mushrooms. — aux huitres, — Stewed in white sauce with oysters. — i I'ltalienne. — Stewed in brown sauce, chopped mush- rooms, shallots, white wine, and tomato puree. — 4 la Maltre d'HStel. — Stewed in white sauce with choppted parsley ; maltre d'hotel sauce. ^ 4 la Poulette. — Calf's head stewed in white sauce with sliced mushrooms and chopped parsley. — i la Robert. — Stewed in brown onion sauce. — d la Sainte-Menihould. — Boiled, dished in a well- buttered dish, covered with a mixture of veloute sauce, yolks of eggs and breadcrumbs, baked in the oven. — en Tortue. — Stewed in rich brown sauce with veal quenelles, button mushrooms, sliced trufBes, cocks' combs, cocks' kernels, crayfish tails, and pickled gherkins ; garnished with fried whole eggs and fleurons (little half-moon shapes of baked puff-pjiste). — i la TyroUenne. — Cooked in stock, cut in slices, egged, crumbed, and fried in butter ; garnished with fried parsley and lemon quarters ; sauce Tyrolienne, — 4 la Vinaigrette. — Boiled in stock and served with vinaigrette sauce ; garnished with hard-boiled eggs, anchovy fillets, and olives. Agneau et Mouton — Lamb and Mutton. Note. — Pr£-sal6 or Behagu6 denotes Southdown mutton, and is frequently quoted on menus for mutton. Blanquette d' Agneau k la Romaine.— A white stew of lamb (shoulder and breast pieces), enriched with egg-yolks, lemon juice and meat glaze ; garnished with small baked timbales of pur^e of artichoke bottoms. MEAT ENTREES (LAMB). 177 CerveUes d'Agneau — Lamb's Brains. Cervelles d'Agneau au beurre noir. — Blanched lamb's brains, boiled and drained, with nut-brown butter poured over. — en coquilles.— Stewed sheep's brains, baked and served in shells. — Irltes. — Parboiled sheep's brains, egged, crumbed, and fried. — 4 la Mattre d'HStel. — Blanched sheep's brains cooked in white sauce with chopped parsley. — en Matelote. — Braised sheep's or lamb's brains with a red wine sauce ; served with small dice of broiled bacon and glazed button onions. — & la Rosita. — Croustades of fried bread with half a poached lamb's brain, sauced over with mornay sauce, sprinkled with parmesan, and baked ; dished in circle with fine macaroni, and shredded trufides in centre of dish. Beignets de Cervelles i, la Turquo. — Parboiled, seasoned, dipped in frying batter, fried, and served with tomato sauce. Chartreuse d'Agneau A, la Gastronome. — Boned breasts of lamb, stewed in white stock, cut into strips, ranged in a, chartreuse mould, alternately with braised lettuce steamed " au bain-marie," and served with demi-glace sauce. Carbonados d'Agneau k la Bechamel. — Larded fillets of lamb or mutton braised, and served with bechamel sauce. — d la Bretonne. — Cooked as above ; served with puree of white haricot beans. — & la Chartreuse. — Cooked as above, cut in slices, and dressed in a plain mould, with green peas, sprigs of cauliflower, and French beans ; demi-glace sauce. — 4 I'Osellle. — Cooked as above ; served with pur6e of sorrel. — sauce Poivrade. — Braised boned loin of lamb or mutton larded, served with poivrade sauce. Casserole k I'Anglaise. — Slices of lean lamb or mutton with suet crust, stock, and seasoning, stewed in earthenware pot. Cotelettes d'Agneau — Lamb Cullets. COtelettes d'Agneau i la Constance. — Breaded and fried with financiere ragout as garnish. — aux Concombres.-^Broiled or grilled with slightly fr;e(i cucunibers. 178 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Cdtelettes d'Agneau k la Cussy.— Breaded and fried ; served with veloute sauce, mixed with cliopped cooked ox-tongue and mushrooms. — & la Ducbesse. — Braised, masked with duxelle puree, egged, crumbed, and fried ; dished up on a border of green peas pur6e ; served with sauce suprferne. — aux £pinards. — Grilled or fried ; garnished with spinach. — 4 la Jaidlnlire. — Breaded and fried ; served with stewed spring vegetables. — & la Longuet. — Partially cooked, pressed, and coated with villeroi sauce mixed with mustaoom and soubise purfee, then egged and crunibed, and fried in butter ; garnished with mushroom heads ; sauce demi-glace. — & la Maltalse. — Breaded and fried ; served with well re- duced sauce, composed of veloute sauce, sherry, leraou and orange juice, and finely shredded orange peel. — ft la Mar6chal. — Egged and cheese crumbed, fried, with bigarade sauce. — ft la Mlnute.^Plain grilled or fried ; served with gravy or demi-glace sauce. ^- en paplUotes. — Par-broiled, wrapped in oiled paper with ends twisted, baked in the oven, and served with demi-glace sauce. — aux petits pols. — Broiled ; garnished with green peas. — ft la Princesse. — Par-fried, pressed, coated with chicken farce, mixed with finely chopped parsley, shallots, mushrooms, ham, lemon juice, and grated nutmeg ; when set, egged, crumbed, and fried ; dressed round a pur§e of green peas or asparagus. — ft la Robert. — Breaded and fried ; served with brown onion sauce. — ft la Royale. — Grilled, dressed en couronne, with foie- gras purfee and tomato pulp (mousse) in centre ; garnished with pommes souifl^es ; sauce madere. — ft la Sainte-Men6hould. — Stuffed from the sides with a mixture of bfechamel sauce, grated cheese, chopped shallots, mushrooms, sind parsley ; braised in the oven and served with Italian sauce. — ft la SIngarat. — Grilled or broiled ; served with finely shredded ox-tongue and onion pur6e. — anx truffes. — Grilled or broiled ; served with truffle sauce. — ft la Villeroi. — Broiled or grilled and pressed, dipped in velout6 sauce, rolled in crushed vermicelli, egged, crumbed, and fried in deep fat. RIs d'Agneau (Lamb's breads). — These can be treated in the same way as calf's sweetbreads {see Ris de Veau). Lamb's breads are also largely used as garnish for all kinds of entree?, MEAT ENTREES {MUTTON). 179 Cdtelettes de Mouton — Mtitton Cutlets. CSteJsttes de Mouton h I'Avignonnaise. — Boiled or grilled, dressed in a circle on a baking dish, maslied with veloute sauce, sprinkled with breadcrumbs and parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven. — i la Bardoux. — Breaded, and broiled in butter ; served with green peas mixed with chopped fried ham. — ^ !a Bouchere. — Breaded and fried ; served plain or with gravy. — i la Byron. — Par-broiled, pressed, immersed in brown sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ; dished up in a circle, with stewed kidneys in centre. — ^ la Chasseur. — Broiled, served with brown sauce containing finely chopped mushrooms. — S la Chatelaine.— Grilled mutton cutlets served round . a bed of soubise puree, surrounded by artichoke bottoms filled with petits pois (green peas) au beurre, and a slice of truffle on top ; demi-glace sauce. — d la Choiseuil. — Spread over with veal forcemeat, mixed with chopped herbs and mushrooms, wrapped in pig's or lamb's caul, dipped in oiled butter, rolled in fresh breadcrumbs, and fried ; tomato sauce. — d la Clamart. — Breaded, fried, dished up in a circle with pnr^e of green peas in centre ; demi-glace sauce. — a la Dreux. — Breaded and fried ; garnished with minced fried bacon, tongue, and gherkins ; dished up in a circle with mashed potatoes, in centre. — & la Finaneiere. — Larded, cooked in butter, sliced onion , carrot, and bay-leaf ; dressed in crown shapes, with financidre ragout in centre. — !l la Frangaise. — Breaded and fried in butter ; garnished with macedoine of vegetables ; sauce madere. — aux Haricots Verts. — Fried, garnished with French beans. — d, rindienne. — Breaded and fried, served with curry sauce and boiled rice. — ^ I'ltallenne. — Marinaded in a mixture of salad oil and chopped savour)' herbs, egged and crumbed in finely chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallots, lemon peel, a pinch of mace, and breadcrumbs, fried in butter ; Italian sauce. — 4 la Malntenon. — Split open from side, filled with a stuffing of chopped mushrooms, parslej^ shallots, and chicken forcemeat, broiled or baked in the oven, dressed alternately with heart shapes of tongue and ham ; Italian sauce. — ^ la Madras. — Breaded and fried (crumbs mixed with finely chopped ham) ; garnished with piccalilli cut in julienne shreds, and served with curry sauce. i8o PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Cdtelettes de Mouton ^ la Mancelle. — Plain broiled or grilled, dressed round a puree of chestnuts; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Milanaise. — Grilled, dressed in the centre of a rice border, the rice being stewed with tomato puree and parmesan cheese ; demi-glace or tomato sauce. — ^ la Minute. — Plain grilled or broiled, with gravy or brown sauce, chopped mushrooms and shallots. — au naturel. — Plain broiled or grilled mutton cutlets. — ^ la Nelson. — Par-broiled and pressed, covered with chicken forcemeat, onion puree, and grated cheese, baked in the oven ; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Nivernalse. — Plain broiled ; served with glazed turnips in centre ; gravy or demi-glace sauce. — & la Pompadour. — Stuffed with onion puree, fried, and garnished with stuffed tomatoes. — & la Proven; ale. — Par-broiled, one side coated with onion puree, egged, and breaded (crumbs mixed with grated cheese), -fried, and served with olive-shaped fried potatoes. — & la Purie de Pommes de Terre, — Breaded and fried, dressed round mashed potatoes. — ^ la R^forme.— Ireaded with white breadcrumbs, mixed with finely chopped ham, and fried in butter ; garnished with mushrooms, trufHes, gherkins, ham, and hard-boiled white of eggs, all cut into fine julienne strips, and served with poivrade sauce, mixed with red- currant jelly. — 4 la Salvanty. — Braised neck of mutton, divided into cutlets, dished up with pur^e of green peas in centre ; sauce demi-glace. — 4 la St. Cloud. — Larded with truffles and broiled ; served with gravy or demi-glace sauce. — & la St. Germain. — Grilled or broiled with green pea puree. — d la Soubise. — Broiled or braised with white onion soubise sauce. — & la Soyer. — Par-broiled and pressed, seasoned, sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, shallots, and savoury herbs, crumbed, and fried in butter, served with demi-glace sauce, and flavoured with garlic and red-currant jelly. — aux Tomates. — f",rumbed and fried, with stewed tomatoes or tomato pur6e. — A la Vatel. — Stuffed from tlie sides with chicken farce, mixed with chopped truffles, egged, crumbed, and fried ; garnished with financiSre ragout. — d la Vicomtesse. — Grilled and pressed, coated with reduced madSre sauce, egged, crumbed, and fried ; garnished with macidoine of spring vegetables ; demi-glace sauce. MEAT ENTR&ES {MUTTON). i8i Oarbonades de Mouton en RagoQt. — Stewed mutton, neck ' or loin chops, with carrots, turnips, onions, and f mushrooms, and brown sauce, — ^ la Jardiniere. — A brown stew of mutton, garnished with a mixture of carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans. Epaule — Shoulder (lamb or mutton), Epaule d'Agneau (de Mouton) roul^e aux petits pois. — Boned, rolled shoulder of lamb, braised, served with green peas. — a la Bretonne. — Braised ; served with a puree of white haricot beans and denii-glace sauce. — brais^e aux trufles. — Boned, stuffed, and rolled, braised ; served with sliced truffles and demi-glace sauce. — A. la Chevet. — Boned, rolled, roasted, and glazed ; served with a brown sauce reduced with white wine, flavoured with chopped shallots and parsley. — glacie. — Boned, rolled, braised, and glazed ; served with demi-glace sauce. — a la Montmorency. — Boned, stuffed with forcemeat, larded and braised ; served with a garniture of cocks' combs, mushroom heads, truffles, chicken quenelles, and slices of sweetbread, done in veloute or allemande sauce. — ^ la Paysahne. — Boned and braised ; garnished with small stewed carrots, turnips, and peeled tomatoes ; demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Polonaise. — Boned, braised, and sliced ; dressed in the centre of a border of mashed potatoes ; sauced over with gravy, sprinkled over with fried bread- crumbs, and baked. — ^ la Sainte-MenShOuId. — Boned and braised, with carrots, turnips, bacon, and savoury herbs ; when done cut into slices, dished up, covered with brown sauce, breadcrumbs, and small pieces of butter, browned in a hot oven or under the salamander. — aux tomates farcies. — Braised with baked stuffed tomatoes and demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Windsor. — Boned, rolled, and braised ; garnished with cauliflower, carrots, turnips, capers, and fried potato croquettes ; espagnole sauce. Epigrammes. — Boned breast of lamb or mutton, braised or boiled, pressed, and cut into small portions coUops) ; denotes also a dish of alternate cutlets, cut from_the neck and the breast, according to the style adopted. Epigrammes d'Agneau (de Mouton) k la P^rigord. — Fried slices of lamb stewed in truffle sauce. 1 82 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Epigrammes d'Agneau (de Moulon) aplapfiarna!s^r//7p^ pared as above ; when cold, coated with veloute J-ugg ' dipped in eggs and breadcrumbs, and fried in clariftv ' butter ; served with bearnaise sauce in the centre oi~ dish. — d'Agneaux i la Dauphlne. — Cooked, pressed, cut up, dipped in a mixture of butter and yolks of eggs, and crumbed, fried, and served with a puree of green peas and potato croquettes. — i la Mac6doine. — As above, with a mixture of vegetables in centre of dish ; gravy or demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Napolitaine. — ^Fried, served with stewed macaroni and tomato puree. — 4 la Parme.— Braised, pressed, cut up, egged, and crumbed in bread and grated parmesan cheese, and fried in butter. — au Pur6e de Marrons. — As above, with chestnut puree in centre of dish ; gravy or demi-glace sauce. — ^ la Soubise. — Prepared as above and fried in butter ; served with white onion puree in centre of dish ; demi-glace sauce. Escalopes. — Fillets or cutlets' cut from the neck or loin (chump end) of lamb or mutton, freed from bone or fat ; egged, crumbed, and fried in butter. — 4 la Chlpolata. — Crumbed and fried ; garnished with braised chestnuts, carrots, turnips, and button onions, pieces of fried sausages, and potato croquettes — aux fines herbes. — Broiled, served with a rich brown sauce, mixed with chopped shallots and parsley. — h \& Pur6e de Champignons. — Grilled or broiled, with puree of fresh mushrooms. Filets d'Agneau ou de Mouton — Fillets of Lamb or Mutton. These are obtained from the loin or neck of lamb or mutton, cut of usual thickness, and musl: be free from bone and fat. Filet de Mouton brais6 4 1'Anglaise. — Boned loin of mutton stufEed with forcemeat, braised, cut up and" dressed ; garnished with French beans. — & la Byron. — Grilled or broiled, coated with onion pur6e, and stewed sheep's kidne3rs in centre of dish. — & la Gascogne. — Larded with anchovy fillets, and braised ; served with brown sauce, flavoured with garlic. — i la Minute. — Grilled or broiled ; served with plain gravy. — i la Polonaise. — Larded, pickled, and braised ; gar- nished with stuffed mushrooms ; brown sauce. MEAT ENTREES '(MUTTON). 183 ; de Mouton braiss k la Venaison. — Larded and mari- naded whole in vinegar brine ; flavoured with cloves, juniper berries, peppercorns, and savoury herbs ; braised, and served with brown sauce enriched with sour cream. — t\a, Viiieroi. — Braised whole, cooled, cut up, and masked w;ith alletnande sauce, then egged and crumbed in bread and grated cheese, fried in deep fat, and served %vith tomato sauce. Fricassee d'Agneau. — Stewed breast of lamb in white sauce with mushrooms and chopped parsley. — aux Champignons. — Stewed breast of lamb in white sauce with sliced mushrooms. — aux Houblons. — Stewed breast of lamb with hop sprigs. — aux pointes d'Asperges. — Stewed breast of lamb with asparagus points. HSchis de Viande. — A superior kind of hashed or minced meat, lamb or mutton. — k I'Eeossaise. — Hashed or minced meat laid in a pie- dish ; seasoned, covered with brown or white sauce and breadcrumbs, and baked in the oven. — aux oeufs poclv^s. — Hashed or minced cold meat fried in butter and heated up in brown sauce, with poached eggs placed on top. — 4 la Pompadour. — Hashed meat, with stewed mush- rooms, truffles, and artichoke bottoms as garnish. — ^ la Portugaise. — Sliced cold lamb or mutton slightly browned in butter, with ham, carrots, and shallots, a little garlic, and parsley ; heated up in brown sauce. Haricot or RagoQt. — Pieces of loin or neck of mutton or lamb, fried in butter, with a few small turned carrots, turnips, and onions, drained, and stewed in brown sauce. — & la Bourgeoise. — Braised, with vegetables ; garnished with same, and small braised button onions and boiled potato dumplings. — 4 I'Eeossaise. — Stewed lamb in brown sauce, surrounded with small forcemeat timbales lined with thin pan- cakes. — a la Flamande. — Stewed in brown sauce, with spring vegetables cut into neat shapes. — 4 la Hessoise. — Par-fried, stewed in brown sauce ; served with sour-crout (chou-croute), and pieces of small ham sausages. — k I'Indienne. — Par-frieid, and stewed in curry sauce; served in a border of boiled rice. — a la Parisienne. — Par-fried, stewed in brown sauce, with cubes of carrots and turnips and fried button onions ; garnished with small round fried potatoes. 1 84 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Haricot or Ragoflt aux Petits Pols. — Par-fried, stewed in brown sauce, with green peas. — & la Provencale. — Hashed, re-heated in brown onion sauce, and garnished with small stuffed tomatoes. Langues d'Agneau — Lamb's Tongues. Langues d la Duxelles.^-Braised, spread over with a mix- ture of breadcrumbs, chopped shallots, parsley, and mushrooms, butter, and egg-yolks, dressed on a dish, coated with duxelles sauce, and browned in a, sharp oven. — marin^es. — Pickled and broiled ; served with brown sauce. — au Madere. — Braised, in Madeira wine sauce. — il la Soubise. — Braised, served with white onion puree and demi-glace sauce. Langues de Mouton — Sheep's longues. Langues de Mouton bralsees i la Fran^aise. — Blanched and braised, split in half, and garnished with puree of turnips, braised button onions, and turned carrots ; brown sauce. — aux Olives. — Braised, with French olives ; brown sauce. — en papillotes. — Braised, dressed in paper cases, and glazed. — grill6es h la Suisse. — Cooked, split in halves, seasoned, dipped in butter and breadcrumbs, and grilled ; served with piquant sauce. Longe de Mouton — 1 oin of JUutton, Longe de Mouton en ChevreuU. — Boned loin of mutton stewed in a rich game stock, flavoured with savoury herbs, carrots, onions, peppercorns, and juniper berries ; served with port wine sauce. — A, la C61estine.— Braised, garnished with pancakes spread over with chicken farce, rolled, dipped in frying batter, and fried. — i la Demi-glace. — Braised, and served with demi- glace sauce. Noisettes de prt-sal6, ChStelalne.— Braised noisettes (fillets of mutton) dressed on halves of braised lettuce ; garnished with noisette potatoes and artichoke bottoms filled with chestnut pur6e ; sauce madfire. — Malntenon. — Small slices from neck or loin of mutton, free from bone and skin, breaded, and fried, dressed on croutons ; garnished with artichoke bottoms filled with green peas ; sauce demi-glace. , MEAT ENTRi:ES [LAMB). 185 Noisettes d'Agneau au Chou.— Small lamb chops, freed from skin, fat, and bone, tossed in butter and braised, with small spring cabbages, Oreillcs — Ears. Oreilles d'Agneau. — Lamb's ears. — de Houton. — Sheep's ears. — d'Agneau farcies. — Stuffed lamb's ears, fried or braised. — frites, sauce Tomatei — Fried lamb's ears, with tomato sauce. — gratin§es. — Stewed lamb's ears, sauced over, breaded, and baked. — i I'Indienne. — Curried lamb's ears with boiled rice. — i, I'ltalienue. — Braised lamb's ears with Italian sauce. Pieds — Feet. Pieds d'Agneau. — Lamb's feet {see Pieds de Mouton). — de Mouton. — Sheep's trotters. — (arcis et braises. — Boiled, boned, stuflfed, and braised ; sauce demi-glace. — frits i, I'Horley. — Cooked in stock, boned, and cut in slices, marinaded in oil, vinegar, and herbs, dipped in frying batter, and fried in deep fat ; sauce tomate. — A I'Indienne. — Boiled, boned, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with curry sauce and boiled rice. — d la Poulette. — Cooked in stock, boned, and stewed in white sauce, with sliced mushrooms, chopped parsley, and lemon juice. — ^ la Souennaise. — Boiled, boned, and stuffed with sausage meat, dipped in frying batter, and fried in hot fat ; served with piquant sauce. — frits i la Tartare. — Fried as above ; served with tartare sauce. — !k la Villeroi. — Boiled, boned, stuffed, rolled, coated with suprgme sauce, egged, and crumbed, and fried in deep fat. Poitrine d'Agneau. — Breast of lamb. — aux Asperges. — Biaised ; served with asparagus points. — d I'Espagnole. — Boned, stuffed, rolled, and braised; garnished with olives, and served with Spanish sauce. — ^ la Milanaise. — Braised ; dressed on a bed of rice, stewed in tomato sauce, etc. — farcie k la V6ry. — Boned, stuffed with veal forcemeat, and braised ; served with saut6 of French beans and demi-glace sauce. — d'Agneau 4 la Turque. — Boned, stuffed, with sausage meat, braised, dressed in a border of stewed rice, flavoured with saffron, sauced over with demi-glace. i86 PRACTIQAL GASTRONOMY. Poitrine de Mouton.— Breast of mutton. — aux Haricots Verts. — Braised ; served witii Frencli beans. — aux Macaroni. — Cut into pieces, stewed, and served with macaroni stewed in tomato sauce. — ^ la Nivernaise. — Stuffed and braised ; garnished with braised turnips and button onions. — ■ aux Petits Pois. — Slewed the same way as ragout or haricot ; served with green peas. — & la Robert. — Braised ; served with brown onion sauce. Queue d'Agneau. — Lamb's tail. — sauties. — Sheep's or lamb's tails fried in butter and stewed in brown sauce. — t\ZL pirrie de pois. — Stewed in brown sauce, dressed in a border of puree of green peas. — au Riz. — Stewed in brown sauce with rice. Queue de Moutoc. — Sheep's tail. — aux ^pinards.— Braised, served with spinach. — braisSes 4 la Franpaise. — Braised, with carrots, turnips, and small onions ; garnished with these vegetables and with fried potato balls. — si la Jardiniere. — Braised, served with neatly cut mixed spring vegetables. Rls d'Agneau aux Petits Pois. — Braised lamb's breads, larded ; served with green peas. — en ealsses. — Braised lamb's breads, served in paper cases. — frit. — Fried lamb's breads. — & la Jardiniere. — Braised lamb's breads, larded ; served with finely cut spring vegetables. — au riz. — Stewed lamb's breads with sliced mushrooms and white sauce ; served in a rice border. Coquilles de Ris d'Agneau. — Lamb's breads-stew baked in shells or cases. Mognons — Kidneys. RSgnons de Mouton. — Sheep's kidney. — au beurre d'Anchois. — Broiled or grilled, with anchovy butter in centre ; demi-glace sauce. — & la broche. — Grilled or broiled on skewers. — au Champagne. — Sliced, par-fried, and stewed with champagne and brown sauce. — 4 la Chlnoise. — Split, grilled, centres filled with stewed asparagus points, and garnished with whole fried eggs ; tomato sauce. MEAT ENTRIES (PORK). 187 Rdgnons de Mouton i rEpleufienne. — SpHt open and broiled, the centres filled with tartare sauce ; garnished with small round fried potatoes ; poivrade sauce round dish. — dia Maitre d'HStel. — Skinned, split open, and broiled ; served with maitre d'hotel butter. — aux fines herbes. — Grilled or broiled, centre filled with parsley butter ; demi-glace sauce. — saut^es i, la Franpaise. — Sliced and seasoned, tossed, with butter over a quick fire, when partly done dredged with flour, and finished with demi-glace sauce ; garnished ^ with fried bread croutons, and sprinkled with chopped parsley — sautts au Madire. — Sliced, tossed in butter, and served with madSre sauce. — panSs. — Par-broiled split sheep's kidneys put on skewers, buttered, breadcrumbed, and baked in .the oven or fried in deep fat. — ft la Turblgo.— Sliced and stewed, with finely chopped shallots and white wine, mixed with thin slices of sausages and dice of fried lean bacon. Pore — Pork. (See also Light Entree Section.) Carbonade de Pore ft la Franpalse (Breast or Belly part). — Slices of fresh pork with vegetable garnish stewed in brown sauce. Carrfi de Pore ft la Nivernaise. — ^Braised neck of pork with glazed button onions and cubes of turnips. — brais^e, sauce Piquante. — Braised neck of pork with piquant sauce. — ft 1 'Indienne. — Curried neck of pork, with boiled rice. Cervelles de Pore ft la Demi-Glace. — Blanched pork brains stewed; in dpmi-glace sauce. — ft I 'Italienne. — Stewed in Italian sauce, with macaroni garnish. C6tes de Pore ft la, Diplomate. — Braised spare ribs of pork, garnished with stewed red cabbage, fried pork sausages, and stuffed potatoes. CStelettes de Pore griil^es. — Broiled pork cutlets. — aux fines herbes. — Broiled, and stewed in brown sauce containing chopped parsley and white wine. — aux Haricots blancs.- — Fried, served with purSe of white haricot Beans. — de Pore ft 1 'Indienne. — Par-fried, stewed m curry sauce, and served with boiled rice. i88 PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. Catelettes de Pore aux LentUles. — Braised or stewed, with a puree of lentils. — marin6es. — Pickled pork cutlets, fried in oil, stewed, and served in tomato sauce. — ^ la Navarraise. — Pickled, fried, and stewed in brown sauce with sliced tomatoes ; dressed on a bed of stewed rice. — aux Pommes. — Fried- pork cutlets or chops with apple sauce. — & la Robert. — Par-fried, and stewed in brown onion sauce. — d la Soubise.— Grilled or fried ; served with onion puree ; demi-glace sauce. Jambon grill6 aux petits pois. — Grilled ham with green peas. — k rAIsacienne. — Braised ham, with sour-crout, mashed potatoes, and Strasbourg sausages. — i I'Anglaise. — Parboiled ham, wrapped in a paste crust made of flour and water, and baked ; served with the crust and skin removed ; reduced wine sauce. — bouilli, sauee MadJre.— Boiled ham with Madeira wine sauce. — brais^ aux NouiUes. — Braised ham with nouilles as garnish. — brais6 au Champagne. — Braised ham with champagne sauce. — brals6 ^ la Franfaise. — Parboiled ham, braised in espagnole sauce, flavoured with sherry or Madeira wine, Jambon bralsfi ^ la Choucroute. — Braised ham with stewed choucroute (sauerkraut). — ik la Bayonnalse. — Braised ham with fried onions. dressed on stewed rice ; garnished with pieces of fried sausages ; demi-glace sauce. — & la Clamait. — Braised ham, glazed with reduced demi- glace ; garnished with puree of green peas. — & la Polonaise. — Braised ham, garnished with small timbales of peas, choucroute (sauerkraut), and small smoked pork sausages. — 4 la Russe. — Braised ham, with small stuffed spring cabbages and stewed rice. Beignets de Jambon (Ham Fritters). — Minced ham, mixed with yolk of eggs and bechamel sauce, shaped into - small rolls or balls, dipped in frying batter, and fried in fat. Jarrets de Pore marine 4 I'AUemande.— Boiled pickled knuckles of pork with stewed sauerkraut, forcemeat dumplings, and white sauce. MEAT ENTRIES {PORK). 189 Langues de Pore i I'ltalienne.— Braised pork tongues with brown sauce and chopped preserved mushrooms. — it la Lyonnaise. — Boiled with fried sliced onions and brown sauce. Oreilles de Pore en Vinaigrette. — Boiled pickled pig's ears with vinaigrette sauce ; garnished with hard-boiled eggs, capers, gherkins, and olives. — frites, sauce Tartare. — Boiled, soaked in oil and chopped herbs, dipped in frying batter and fried ; served with tartare sauce. — en Menus Droits. — Pickled, braised, and served with finely sliced fried onions. Palais de Pore grating. — Boiled pig's palate, seasoned, dressed in a gratin dish with bechamel sauce, sliced mushrooms, breadcrumbs, and small pieces of butter, baked in a quick oven. — aux Champignons. — Stewed pig's palate with sliced mushrooms. Pleds de Cochon au Champagne. — Pickled pig's feet, stewed in champagne sauce. — en Fricassee.— Fricasseed pig's feet (white sauce and mushrooms). — au Madere. — Stewed pickled pig's trotters (pig's feet), with madere sauce. — farcis A, la P6rigueux. — Pickled, stuffed with finely chopped truffles, braised, and served with truffle sauce. — sauce Piquante. — Pickled pig's feet, stewed and served in piquant sauce. — ^ la Sainte-Men^hould. — Pickled, boned, boiled, and stuffed, dipped in frying batter, fried in deep fat ; served with piquant or Robert sauce. Saucisses"" de Pore aux truffes. — Fresh German pork sausages (Bratwurste) fried ; served with truffle sauce. — 4 la ' Lyonnaise. — Fried pork sausages with braised sliced onions, — d la Purfie de Pommes de Terre. — Fried pork sausages with mashed potatoes, TSte de Pore 4 la Poulette. — Boiled pickled pig's head with parsley sauce. — frite, sauce R6mouiade. — Boiled pickled pig's head, cut in small pieces, egged, crumbed, and fried ; served with remoulade sauce and fried parsley. — &\a Mobile. — Braised salted pig's head, with fried sliced tomatoes ; dished on stewed rice ; demi-glace sauce. * Saucisse usually stands for fresh sausage, whilst saucisson denotes smoked sausage. igo PRACTICAL GASTRONOMY. VOLAILLE— POULTRY. Canard — Duck : or Caneton — Duckling. Canard (or Caneton) bra1s§ aux Petits Pois. —Braised duck with green peas. — 4 rAmiricaine. — Duck divided down the middle, rubbed over with a mixture of French mustard, chutney sauce, and seasoning, broiled in butter ; served with brown sauce containing white wine, chopped lemon, pickles, and preserved mushrooms. — i la Blgarade. — Braised duck with orange sections and bigarade sauce. — t la Bordelaise. — Boned, stuffed, and braised, served with bordelaise sauce. — en casserole. — Braised and served in earthenware fire- proof casserole, with demi-glace or other browiL sauce. — & la Chasseur. — Par-roasted, and stewed in brown sauce with chopped mushrooms and fillets of game. — en ehemlse. — StufEed and braised like "Rouennaise," wrapped in pig's caul, and finished "en casserole"; rouennaise sauce.- — d la ehlpolata. — Braised in casserole, with reduced demi-glace and chipolata garniture. — !l la Duclair. — Stuffed with the hearts and livers, finely chopped shallots, parsley, and seasoning, roasted, and sauced with demi-glace reduced with claret, orange juice, and chopped chives. — Escalopes or Filets de Canard. — Breast part of duck or duckling, braised and cut into slices, served with suitable sauce. — braisi A, la Fran^alse. — Braised (breast larded), stuffed with chestnuts, chopped onions, and savoury herbs ; served with port-wine sauce. — & 1 'Itallenne. — Par-roasted, cut up, fried in oil, with chopped chives, parsley, and herbs, stewed in Italian sauce. — & la Lyonnaise. — Braised, liquor reduced to demi- glace, with small glazed button onions and glazed chestnuts. — & la Moll^fb. — Boned, stuffed w.ith liver farce, and braised ; sauce madSre. — aux Navets. — Stewed duck with new turnips. — & la Nlvelle. — Boned, and stuffed with chopped ham and beef, braised, cut up, and sauced over with demi-glace. POULTRY ENTRIES (DUCK). 191 Canard t la Nivernaise. — Braised, with glazed turnips and button onions, and demi-glace sauce. — aux Olives. — Stewed duck with olives and brown sauce. — d 1 'Orange. — Braised, with sections of orange, glazed ; orange ilavoured brown sauce. — k l& Palestine. — Braised, with quarters of Jerusalem articholjes and demi-glace sauce. — au Porto. — Par-roasted, and braised in casserole, with port-wine sauce. — i la Proven^ ale. — Broiled, and stewed in brown sauce ; garnished with braised carrots, turnips, and button onions. — ^ la Presse. — Roast fillets and wing portions removed, carcase chopped and pressed, and the juice thus obtained is blended with chopped liver and port- wine sauce ; this, is strained over the dish. — sk la Routiere. — Roasted, and served with brown sauce containing finely chopped duck liver, duck juice, and shallots. (Ducklings or ducks can be served in the same manner as a roast by stuiifing them with a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped , livers and hearts,, herb seasoning, chopped parsley and shallots, egg,' and fresh butter.) — i la Rouennaise. — Boned, stuffed with liver farce, and braised ; demi-glace sauce, reduced with Burgundy wine. — 4 la Saint-Mand6. — Braised, and served with madfird sauce ; garnished with thick slices of cooked cucumber, slightly fried in butter, and fried bread croutons. — & la Valeneienne. — Roasted, garnished with rows of slices of orange, and served with orange sauce. — saut6 au PScheur. — Par-fried, and stewed in demi-glace sauce ; garnished with crayfish-tails. — ^ la R^forme. — Par-roasted, and stewed in brown sauce, reduced with black-currant jelly and port wine. Croustade de Canard t la Chariraine. — French raised pie crust lined with forcemeat and filled alternately with sausage meat and stewed fillets of duCk, baked in the oven. Darioles de Canard k la St. Germain. — Dariole shapes made of braised duck, made into souffle and poached or steamed ; garnished with paste crusts (tartlet shapes), filled with green pea puree, and glazed tangerine sections ; hot zingara sauce. Mousse deCaneton. — A light souffle of duckling, with garniture of oranges, cherries, or vegetable puree ; - Rouennaise or bigarade sauce.