.TORYOFMYMFR MLONEIx MEADOWs|fAYkOIl '*<#*#*#* fif * 4? * JT" The story of my life, 3 1924 013 558 154 % PR T3C>Zs THE STOEY OF MY LIFE Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31 92401 35581 54 THE STORY OF MY LIFE BY THE LATE COLONEL MEADOWS TAYLOR author op ' confessions of a thug,' 'taba; a mahratta tale,' etc. EDITED BY HIS DAUGHTER T(^yhn ^1''^^ .Me^dpi^^ WJTE A PREFACE BY HENRY BEEVE A NEW EDITION WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBUKGH AND LONDON MDCCCLXXXII /J, y/^- PEE FACE. FOK several years before his death, the writer of these Memoirs had been urged by his friends to leave on record some account of his adventurous and useful life. The materials at hand were authentic and abundant ; for not only was he possessed of an ex- cellent memory and great powers of retaining and narrating numerous and complicated details with entire accuracy, but during the forty years he spent in India, he carried on a copious correspondence with his father and other members of his family, and a great portion of these voluminous letters has been not only preserved, but carefully transcribed in England. I venture, therefore, to say that nothing is related in these volumes upon vague recollection or traditional evidence, but every incident is told as it happened. Although it was not the fate of Meadows Taylor to rise to a high rank in the civil or military admin- istration of India, and he cannot lay claim to the VI PREFACE. distinction and fame which belong to the illustrious founders and servants of the British empire in the East, there were circumstances in his career not less remarkable than in the lives of greater men. He was one of the last of those who went out to India as simple adventurers — to use the term in no dis- paraging sense, for Clive and Dupleix were no more — and who achieved whatever success he had in life solely by his own energy and perseverance, inde- pendent of the patronage of the great Company or the authority of the Crown. A lad of fifteen, after a few years spent at a second-rate school, and a few months in the drudgery of a Liverpool mer- chant's counting-house, is sent to Bombay upon a vague and fallacious promise of mercantile employ- ment. It was long before the days of Indian ex- aminations and Competition Wallahs. Arrived at Bombay, the house of business he was to enter proved to be no better than a shop, and its chief an embarrassed tradesman. By the influence and assist- ance of a kinsman, a commission was obtained , for the misfortune-stricken boy in the Nizam's military contingent. Thus only he started in life. But the stress of circumstances and the tenacity of his own character had already taught him the all-important lesson of self-reliance and independence. Already, on the voyage, he had commenced the study of Eastern languages, to which he applied himself with extreme assiduity in his new position, perceiving PREFACE. VU that until a man has mastered the language of a country he can know little of its inhabitants, and may remain for ever a stranger to the intelligence and the hearts of those over whom he exercises authority. His perfect acquaintance with the lan- guages of Southern India, Teloogoo, and Mahratta, as well as Hindoostanee, was no doubt the founda- tion of his extraordinary influence over the natives of the country, and of his insight into their motives and character. It was also the first step to his ad- vancement in his profession. At seventeen he was employed as interpreter on courts-martial, and re- commended for much higher duty by the Eesident ; and at eighteen he found himself Assistant Police Superintendent of a district comprising a population of a million souls. Nor were the duties of that office light. They involved not only direct authority over the ordinary relations of society, but the active pur- suit of bands of dacoits. Thugs, and robbers, who infested a half-civilised territory. Occasionally, mili- tary expeditions were necessary to reduce some law- less chief of higher degree to obedience. The head of the police was, in short, the representative of law and order in a wild country. These duties, at this early age. Meadows Taylor performed, and with such success as to merit the notice of the sagacious old Minister of the Nizam, Chundoo Lall, and the ap- proval of the Eesident. It would be superfluous in this preface to notice VIU PKEFACE. the details of his advancement in life, which are more fully related by himself in the following pages. But I may venture to point out one or two consider- ations on which the simplicity and modesty of his own nature forbade him to dwell. By mere perse- verance and industry, he carried on the work of self- education through life with very remarkable results ; and this, chiefly, at military stations in the interior of the Deecan, with no advantages of books or Euro- pean society. Having mastered the native languages, he soon found that the government of an Indian district and population means that English intelli- gence, integrity, and foresight are to supply all that is wanting in these respects to a less civilised people; and he applied himself to make good from such re- sources as he possessed all these deficiencies. Thus he taught himself the art, and even invented a new method, of land-surveying, because the revenue set- tlement of the country depends upon it ; and without augmenting the burdens of the people, he largely increased the revenue of the State in several dis- tricts. He taught himself engineering, because the construction of roads, tanks, and buildings was an essential part of the improvement of the country. He acquired a considerable knowledge of law, both Hindoo, Mohammedan, and English, because he had to administer justice to the people ; and he framed for himself a simple code and rules of procedure applicable to a country where there were no courts PKEFACE. ix of law and no written laws at all. He studied geology and botany, because he observed the direct bearing of these sciences on the productiveness of the soil. He brought to the knowledge of Europe the curious antiquities of Southern India, so nearly allied in form to some of the remains of Ireland, Cornwall, and France. He beguiled his leisure hours with painting and music, in which he had, I know not how, acquired considerable proficiency ; and he cultivated literature with no mean success, as is proved by the series of novels beginning with the ' Confessions of a Thug,' in which the manners and superstitions of India are portrayed with wonderful fidelity, and by the 'Manual of Indian History,' which is the most complete summary in existence of the annals of that country. His various literary productions, which have stood the test of time, and still exercise a fascinating power over the reader, are not so much works of imagination as living pictures of the men and women amongst whom he dwelt. There is hardly a character in these volumes that was not drawn from some real person, whom he had seen and known in his various expeditions or in the repression of crime. And he acquired, as if by nature, an extraordinary force and flexibility of style, which brings the native of India, with his peculiar forms of language, his superstitions, his virtues, and his crimes, within the range of the Eng- lish reader, as no other work has done. The tales X PREFACE. of 'Tara,' 'Ealph Darnell/ 'Tippoo Sultaun,' and ' Seeta,' were designed by their author to mark the principal epochs of Indian history at long intervals of time, and the state of society in each of them ; and they form a complete work, which deserves to retain a lasting place in English literature. And when it is considered that they were for the most part written by a young officer who spent his life in active service, remote from all literary society, they are an astonishing proof 0/ natural genius. I men- tion these things, not by way of panegyric, but because I hope that many a young Englishman may enter upon the duties of an Indian career with this book in his pocket, and may learn from it what may be done, in the course of a single life, to develop and improve his own character and attainments, and to promote the welfare of the people committed to his charge. But there is a higher element and a more import- ant lesson in this record of a life spent in the service of India. Meadows Taylor gave to the people of India not only his head, but his heart. He had the liveliest sympathy and affection for the natives of India. Thoroughly understanding their traditions and their manners, he treated men and women of aU ranks with the consideration and respect due to an ancient society. The wild Beydurs whom he en- countered upon his first arrival at Shorapoor — men who were the terror of, the country and the myr- PREFACE. XI midotis of the court — said to him, after their first interview, " We perceive that you respect us, and we will be faithful to you for ever." And in the more polished spheres of Indian life he touched the pride of the native nobility with so light and kindly a hand, that they were as eager to court his friendship as the peasantry were to receive his counsel and his benefits. British rule in India has, beyond all doubt, conferred the great benefits of peace and civilisation on the country ; but it is sometimes wanting in gentleness and sympathy. There lies probably its greatest danger in the future. Some examples there are of men who have touched the hearts of the na- tives and enjoyed in return their enthusiastic and devoted regard, such as the Lawrences, Outram, and Malcolm ; but they are rare. I think the author of these recollections was one of them. Wherever he went, the natives knew and believed that they had a protector and a friend. The sphere of his power and influence was not wide, at least in comparison with the vast extent and population of the Indian empire; but as far as it extended they were com- plete. Probably there were few men in India who, at the moment of the Mutiny of 1857, could have crossed the river into Berar without troops, and held a firm grasp on the passions of an excited people : and the confidence inspired by men of this character largely contributed to save the south of India from the calamities which were devastating the North- XU PREFACE. Western Provinces of Bengal. Not only was the maintenance of peace in the Deccan a matter of the utmost importance to the suppression of the dis- turbances in the North-West, hut Colonel Taylor was able most materially to assist the operations of Sir Hugh Eose's army by moving up cattle and sup- plies, which were indispensable to the sustenance of the troops. The chief object we have in view in giving this volume to the world, and the chief object of the author in writing it, is to impress upon those who may be called upon to take any part in the adminis- tration of India, and especially on the young men who now annually leave our schools and exaniination papers for that purpose, that their ability, happiness, and success in the great work before them will de- pend very much on the estimate they form of the native character, and on the respect and regard they show to the natives in the several ranks of society. The highest are on a par with the oldest and proud- est aristocracy in the world. The lowest are entitled to be treated as members of an old and civilised society. Meadows Taylor was never, properly speakingf in the civil service of the East India Company or the Crown, nor did he hold any military appointment in the British Indian army. He was through life an of&cer of the Nizam. He never even visited Cal- cutta or Bengal. But the administration of the PREFACE. XIU Nizam, both civil and military, is, to a certain extent, that of a protected government, and is large- ly influenced by the decisions and policy of the Governor - General of India in Council. He remained at Shorapoor many years. When the arrangement was made with the Nizam for the liquidation of the claims of the British Gov- ernment by the cession of certain portions of territory, the district of Western Berar was placed under the management of Captain Taylor ; and the services rendered by him were so far eventually recognised by the Government of India, that he retired, after more than thirty-eight years' service, with the pension of his rank in the British service, not unaccompanied with honorary distinctions which he valued. The time is past when so adventurous and sin- gular a career is possible in India or elsewhere." The world grows more methodical, and routine takes the place of individual effort. But the same quali- ties of head and heart are still the only guides to success in the government of a people different from ourselves in race, religion, and manners, but united to Great Britain by a common allegiance and com- mon duties. HENEY EEEVE. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. 1808-24. PAGE Two narrow escapes —Change of fortune — Escape from school — Eemove to Dublin — Return to Liverpool — Hardship — Departure from England, . . , . .1 CHAPTER II. 1824. Pirates — Arrival at Bombay — First impressions — Life at Bax- ter's — Deliverance, . . . . . .16 CHAPTER III. 1825-29. The first march — Miracle-play — Jungle fever — Station life — First staff appointment — A dazzling prospect — Death of Stirling — Hyderabad — Magisterial duties — Free ! — Police arrangements— New duties — Dishonest flour-sellers — Police organisation — Dacoity — The capture — Temptation — Start- ling revelations — Anxieties — Suspicions persons, . . 26 CHAPTER IV. 1829-37. Accident — A quarrel — Reconciliation — A noted rebel — Thugs — Kindness— Macaulay — Tiger-hunts — Leave Bombay, . 67 XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. 1838. The voyage— Visit to Aden — Sail for Suez — Scenery along the coast — Altered destination — Our first look at Egypt — Dendera — Philse — Opening a tomb — Last sight of Cairo — Quarantine at Malta — Scene at the Douane — Arrive in London, . .... 90 CHAPTER VI. 1839-40. Literary work — Driving the "wild teams " — A strange speech — Society at Gore House — India again — Arrival at Hyder- abad — I rejoin the 8th Regiment, . . . .116 CHAPTER VIL 1841-42. A difficult undertaking — Shorapoor — Friendly advances — In- terview with the leaders — Chun Busappa surrenders — A narrow escape — The Ranee's submission — The ceremony, . 131 CHAPTER VIII. 1843-44. A disagreeable affair — Conduct of the Beydurs — Tour into the country — A holy Brahmin — A dishonest patell — Abuse of power, . . ... 149 CHAPTER IX. 1844. A horrible plot discovered — Peace once more — Making roads — General improvement — State ceremony — ^Anxiety — Pid Naik's obsequies — Trustee for Pid Naik's family, . .163 CHAPTER X. 1846. Illness of the Rajah — Astrology — A pleasant reception, . 180 CONTENTS. XVU CHAPTEK XL 1847-50. Revenue survey — A strange interview — A strange prophecy — The Ranee appeased — Visit to Hyderabad — The Ranee in mischief — The insurrection suppressed — Departure of the Ranee — A vision — Irrigation — A scene — -Back to Shorapoor, ....... 186 CHAPTEE, XII. 1851-53. Cairns — The Rajah's majority — Resignation of the Resident — Question of political agency — The prophecy again — A new district — The last days — Advice to the Rajah — Farewells — Beydurs — Athletic sports — Criminal courts — Successful undertakings — Experience of native life, . . . 211 CHAPTER XIII. 1853-57. The new province — Settling down — Visit to Sholapoor — An old friend — Strange scene — "Water supply — Suppression of crime — Irrigation-works — The Resident's visit — More work — Improvements — Lord Dalhousie — Various duties — Test- ing surveys — Trial for murder — Cave-temples — More sur- veys — Refuge in hot weather — The first warning — The Mutiny — Settlement of land — Uneasiness — A surprise — An affecting parting, . ... 240 CHAPTER XIV. 1857-58. A trying moment — The march — Hyderabad contingent— Berar — Rebellion on all sides — Loyalty of the inhabitants — Among the people — Back to Nuldroog— Claim on Kirwee booty — Visit to Hyderabad, .... 288 XV1^ CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. 1858. Eajah of Shorapoor's disaffection^ — Defeat of Shorapoor rebels — Interview with the Rajah — The Rajah's story — The last interview — Farewell — Reception at Shorapoor — General amnesty — Appeal for mercy — Sentenced . to death — The old prophecy fulfilled— The last act, . . .308 CHAPTER XVI. 1858-59. Country still unsettled — A ghost story — More work in pros- pect — Falls of the Krishna — Hindoo temple at Kanak- gherry — Anagoondy — Views from the river, ■. . 332 CHAPTER XVII. 1859-60. Ramandroog — Hindoo architecture — Farewell to Shorapoor — Last farewells — Journey to Bombay, . . .347 CHAPTER XVIII. 1860-74. In Rome — A struggle — 'Tara' — Literary work — Lecture on tank-construction — Public lectures — Last words, . . 359 CHAPTER XIX. 1874-76. Conclusion, .... ... 375 STOEY OF MY LIFE. CHAPTEE L 1808-24. I WAS born in Slater Street, Liverpool, on the 25th day of September 1808. My father, Mr Philip Meadows Taylor, was the only surviving son of the Eev. Philip Taylor, of Old Court, Harold's Cross, in the county of Dublin. My mother was the youngest daughter of Ber- tram Mitford, Esq., of Mitford Castle, in the county of Northumberland, one of the most ancient Saxon families of England, which still flourishes, from its origin, be- yond the Conquest, to the present time, in the enjoy- ment of its ancient privileges and estates. My father's ancestors were of a North Lancashire family, and have been traced to Lancaster, where they were known in the fifteenth century. They reckoned many men of sterling worth and reputation among their number ; and one, Dr John Taylor, author of the ' Heb- rew Concordance,' is well known to this day. The Taylors intermarried with the Martineau family, after A 2 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. I. the former had removed to Norwich, which became their stronghold ; and there the pleasant friendly gatherings and intercourse with Mr and Mrs Barbauld, Sir J. E. Smith, and other celebrities of the time, are not yet forgotten. Without making any boast of pedigree, I can at least claim descent from two ancient families of England — one Puritan, the other Eoyalist — and my parents faith- fully preserved these hereditary distinctions to the last. My father was educated partly in Germany, and there learnt to appreciate the advantages of rifles over ordi- nary muskets. He assisted in raising a volunteer rifle corps in Liverpool, which he commanded as executive captain, the Earl of Derby being the colonel ; and thus had, I believe, the merit of being the first to introduce the rifle system into England. This fact was recog- nised by the War Office at a comparatively late period. In 1807, my father and mother were married at Walton Church, Lancashire. Five sons were the issue of this marriage, three of whom survive, I being the eldest. Soon after my birth my father removed from Slater Street to Brookfield, a pretty country-house near Liver- pool ; and later, for convenience in business, then very prosperous, to a house in Rodney Street, the most fashionable locality in the town at that time. I remem- ber but little of Brookfield ; and indeed my first mem- ories of Rodney Street are dim and vague. The chief one is of my being attacked with croup, followed by a long severe illness, which changed me from a healthy, sturdy child into an ailing, delicate one, and necessitated my being sent to Ireland, to the care of my grandfather and aunts, for change of air. I grew querulous and weak, and, I fear, was a trouble in the house. I had 1808-24.] TWO NARROW ESCAPES. 3 named myself " King Pippin," and remember lying on the rug in the room I am now Bitting in, piping out miserably that " King can't " or " King won't " when required to do anything. I grew stronger, however, and soon became my grandfather's constant companion in his strolls about the garden, holding on by his finger, and gradually losing my awe of his deep sonorous voice and imposing manner, as was proved by a speech re- corded against me, when, as he was seized by a violent fit of sneezing, I looked up in my grandfather's face, and said, gravely, " Grandpapa, what a chap you are for sneezing ! " In due course I returned to my parents in Eodney Street, and many memories flit across me while I write. On one occasion, while on a pond with some skaters at Street Court, Herefordshire, where my mother's sister resided, I had a narrow escape of my life. The ice broke under me, and I was with difficulty rescued — my cry being, " Help King ! help King ! " I believe I could at this time read fairly, and could repeat a good deal by heart at the age of five. No great feat, truly ; but I was never set up as a prodigy, nor did I begin Greek at three years old, like Mr Stuart Mill! My wish was to become a merchant in those days, and, watching my opportunity, I ran away to find " papa's counting-house," and was discovered by a friend of my father's crying in the street, and restored to my dear mother, whose agony when she found I was missing was extreme. She feared I had been decoyed' away for my beauty, and that she would never see me more. I was ordered to bed, without supper, by my father ; but I well remember, as I lay there sobbing, 4 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. Z that my mother stole into the nursery with a bowl of hot bread-and-milk in her hand, and gave earnest thanks for my restoration to her beside my little bed. Soon after this escapade, my brother Kobert and my- self were sent to a day-school to keep us out of mischief. Of what we learnt at the Eev. Mr Fearon's I remember but little. I suppose the rudiments of English and the earliest lessons in Latin ; but we were very happy, and it was the beginning of the little education I ever received. Among the most distinct memories of these early days is that splendid illumination of Liverpool, the year of the peace of 1814. We elder boys were taken by our parents through the streets of the town ; and although those were not the days of gas and other brilliant effects, very beautiful devices were arranged with coloured oil- lamps, and our delight was unbounded. Nor have I forgotten the chairing of Mr Canning and General Gascoigne, on their return as Members for Liverpool, after a severely-contested election. I remem- ber my mother presenting a nosegay of flowers (bouquet would be the word used now) to Mr Canning, and the scarlet streamers with which it was tied, and how we children, standing on the steps, were cheering with all our might, and were shown to him. I remember his laughing face and shiny bald head as lie kissed hands to my mother and drove on — the flags too, the shouting crowds, the bands of music, and the windows fiUed with gaily-dressed ladies ; and I remember how my mother, a true Mitford, insisted that her boys should wear the Tory colours, red and blue, in opposition to my father, whose sympathies were with the pink or Whig colours of the Seftons. 1808-24.] CHANGE OF FOETUNE. 5 The same year I accompanied my parents to Norwich, where there was a gathering of the Taylor family : of this I have little recollection ; but of our stay in Lon- don — including being taken in a wherry to Greenwich, and seeing Madame Saqui dance on a tight-rope sixty feet high — I have a very distinct impression, and also that I was a hero in the eyes of my brothers on my return. It must have been about the year 1815-16 that my father's affairs became involved. He rejected all tempt- ing offers to reinstate his business on borrowed moneys, which were freely pressed upon him ; and having hon- ourably discharged every claim, and given up the lux- urious home in Eodney Street, to which his previous position had entitled him, he took a pleasant little villa called Olive Vale Cottage, about three miles from Liver- pool, to which he removed his family. My mother accepted her change of fortune with all the resignation, devotion, and nobility of her character, and was ever the true helper and comforter of her husband. At Olive Vale Cottage we boys lived a very happy life. There was a pretty flower-garden which was our mother's great delight, and her carnations, pinks, and auriculas were the finest of their kind ; a magnolia and scarlet japonica were trained round the drawing-room windows, and showed her exquisite taste. There was a capital fruit and vegetable garden, which was my father's pride, and where he laboured diligently when he returned each day from his work in Liverpool. There was a poplar-tree too, in the highest branches of which we established a sort of nest to which we mysteriously climbed, to my mother's great dismay, and I remember my father calling to us to " Come down, you monkeys, 6 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, l and don't frighten your mother," while he at the same time betrayed no small pleasure in our accomplishing so manly an exploit. Although they were very poor, my parents were very happy and very proud of their troop of noisy boys, who throve well in the sweet country air. The next event was my being sent to school. The one selected was kept by Mr Barron at Holt Hall, near Prescot, and I entered as a boarder. There were, I believe, about a hundred boys, and the school had a wide reputation. It was a rough place, although scarcely equal to the Yorkshire school of Mr Squeers ; but I, fresh from the gentle presence and teachings of my mother, felt the change keenly, and was almost inconsolable — so much so, that I was sent home after a while, and when I returned to Mr Barron's, it was as a parlour boarder, a distinction which caused much jealousy, and subjected me to much torment. I was the youngest boy in the school, teased and bullied by all; but after I had received an enormous cake from home, which was divided among the boys, I grew more into favour, and even became a " pet " among them. We rose at six in summer, partially dressed ourselves, and, with our jackets over our arms, went down to a stone bench in the yard, where stood a long row of pew- ter basins filled with water, and often in the winter with ice. Here, in all weathers, we washed our faces and hands, combed and brushed our hair, and went into the schoolroom a while to study ; then were let out to play till the bell rang for breakfast, consisting of fresh new milk, and a good lump of bread. At ten we were all in school again, and work went on, only interrupted by the instances of severe punishment which but too often 1808-24.] ESCAPE FROM SCHOOL. 7 occurred. The rod was not sparingly used, as many a bleeding back could testify, and I have often been obliged to pick the splinters of the rods from my hands. We were well fed on meat, cabbage, and potatoes, and rice or some plain pudding ; on Sundays we had inva- riably roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. We went into school again at three. At five school broke up, and at seven we had our suppers of bread and milk ; afterwards we could study or go out within bounds as we pleased. Good Mrs Barron attended to our personal cleanliness and to our health ; and at stated seasons, especially in spring, we were all gathered together in the dining-hall, where the old lady stood at the end of the room at a small table, on which was a large bowl of that most horrible compound, brimstone and treacle. The scene rises vividly before me, as we all stood with our hands behind our backs, opened our mouths and received each our spoonful, swallowed it' down as best we could — and had to lick the spoon clean too ! Surely this was a refinement of cruelty ! I presume I learnt something wliUe at this school, for before me lies a letter from my father, praising me for the good conduct and diligence I had shown, and exhorting me to further exertions, with much sound advice on many points. A like letter was also received from my grandfather, the replies to which I had to write with great care and no blots, and which was afterwards found carefully preserved among his papers. I could not have remained at Mr Barron's school longer than the close of the year 1817. The ill-usage I received increased, and I ran home at last and showed my mother my bleeding hands, and also my father when 8 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. L he came in. The distance I had run was no great feat for me, who was always selected " hare " in our games at " hare and hounds," Thus the Barron bubble burst. What was to be done with me next? Had I really learned anything, except spelling, which was well knocked into me, and has stood me in good stead all my life ? I doubt whether I really had profited much. My brother attended a small day-school in the village of Wavertree, and when I got home I was also placed there under Mr Newby's care. I believe he was a com- petent teacher if he chose, but he was incorrigibly sleepy and lazy ; and when her husband fell asleep and we boys became uproarious, Mrs Newby walked in, quelled the tumult, and read her lazy helpmeet a sound lecture, which used to afford us intense amusement. She was a tall grim woman, with decided beard and moustache, and a strong Cumberland accent ; but she was very kind to us boys. A short time after my attendance at this school began, I received a bite from a dog as we were going along the lane one morning. It proved a very severe one, and I was very ill ; my parents were tnuch alarmed, as I was delirious for some time, and it was three months before the wound healed. How vividly I remember my dear mother's anxious face and gentle loving care, and my little brother Selby throwing him- self down on the grass and crying that he saw the sky open and the beautiful angels hovering over him and saying to him, " Meadows won't die ! " What did the child see? Long years after I questioned him about this, and he said the vision was firmly rooted in his memory ! Time passed on, but I fear my father's affairs did not improve, and there were many anxieties and privations 1808-21] EEMOVE TO DUBLIN. 9 at the Cottage ; and at length, after a visit to Dublin, on which I accompanied him, my father accepted the charge of a large brewery in James Street, of which he was to be executive manager. Does any reader remember the Dublin and Liverpool packets of fifty years ago ? Stout cutters, with one nar- row cabin for passengers and berths all round it ; no wonder no one went across who could avoid it. We were three days and nights at sea ; and as provisions were reduced to salt junk and ship's biscuit, we amused ourselves by catching gurnards off the Kish Bank, and these split and broiled were very good. After a short stay in Ireland we returned to Olive Vale Cottage. My father wound up his affairs in Liverpool, and we em- barked with all our belongings for Dublin. The house we occupied in James Street was large and handsome, and the brewery was a source of con- stant and varied delight. We helped, or imagined we helped, John EeOly, the cooper, to make and mend casks ; arid often shared his dinner of salt heriing, pota- toes, and butter, with old Segrave, the porter at the gate, who had a wooden leg. My brother and I attended Dr Hutton's school as day- scholars. Dr Hutton taught Latin and Greek himself, and there were masters for French and mathematics. The discipline here, too, was very severe. Was every- thing I learned always to be beaten into me ? I made but little progress in classics, but delighted in mathe- matics and French, and even gained prizes in these. There was little variety in our Dublin life. I well recoUect the entry of King George IV., the procession, his portly figure, and gracious salutations to the ladies in the windows, and the deafening cheers of the crowd. 10 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, l on that glorious summer day. The event was a remark- able one in the history of Ireland, and its people accorded to their King a right royal welcome. All this time my dear mother's religious teachings to us became, it seems to me now, more earnest and con- stant than before. From her I learnt the doctrines of the Church and the sublime sacrifice and atonement of our Lord ; and how lovingly and carefully she taught us will, I am sure, never be forgotten by my brother or my- self, and led to the feelings I have all my life experi- enced of love and humble devotion to our glorious Church. In those days it was considered effeminate to teach boys to draw, or sing, or play on any instrument ; ac- complishments, therefore, were denied us. I had much desire to learn both music and drawing, but it was not allowed. I was getting on with Latin and Greek, had entered the first class, and took a goodly number of prizes in French and mathematics. Every boy, I suppose, has one decisive fight to record ; mine was with a big boy, the bully of the school. We had one encounter in which I was severely handled. My father encouraged me, however, not to give in, and gave me private instruction, until I began to '' see my way into science.'' Eeckoning on another easy victorj', my enemy one day called me a coward, and hit me. I returned the blow sharply. The odds were scarcely fair, as my adversary had on a jacket with a row of metal buttons down the front; however, I fought on, hitting out as my father had taught me, and at last my foe lay down, begging my forgiveness, which of course was accorded. When I got home it was very evident what had occurred. 1808-21] EETUEN TO LIVERPOOL. 11 " You have been fighting again, sir," said my father, severely. " Yes, sir, with J ," I replied. "Did you lick him?" " I did, father, though he had buttons on his jacket.'' " Bravo, my boy ! here's half-a-crown for you. Go off and treat your backers, and J too, if you like." And so I did. I do not know how it came about, but at the close of that half-year I was told that I was to go to Liverpool and enter the office of Messrs Yates Brothers & Co., West India merchants, and be articled to them for seven years. I did not like the prospect at all. I should leave my darling mother and my studies, in which I was be- ginning to take such pleasure. Why was I sent away ? I am at a loss to imagine, and it is useless to speculate now, but so it was ; and to the intense grief of my mother, I was taken away, young and utterly inexpe- rienced, and placed as a boarder and lodger with Mr Hassal, a clerk in some office in Liverpool, who had been recommended to my father. I was duly introduced to Messrs Yates's oflBce, in which were several young boys — learners like myself. Mr Ashton Yates, the senior partner, was invariably good to me, and I have a grate- ful memory of his kindness while I remained in the office. At first I was set to copy circulars, and such easy work ; then I was promoted to being post-office clerk — not an easy task in those days, as the postage on letters sent and received was of considerable amount and variety. I afterwards became one of the clerks for attending the discharge of cargoes, sitting in all weathers in a wooden shed with the Custom-house land- ing-waiter, entering, under their various marks, cotton 12 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. I. bales, sugar hogsheads, and goods of all descriptions from the East and West Indies. It was a hard life ; and day after day, in snow, frost, or rain, I have sat for hotirs together, shivering and benumbed with cold, being al- lowed an hour for my dinner, in which time I had to run two miles to eat it, and run back again. Sometimes a friendly captain would ask me to partake of his meal ; and I have frequently shared a landing-waiter's lunch when offered. Our nominal hour for closing office was six o'clock ; but I have often been kept till ten when there was a press of work. My last oflSce was " assistant duTiner," as it was called — i.e., the collection of moneys due ; and late in the dark evenings have I, mere boy as I was, been walking the streets of Liverpool with thou- sands of pounds in bills, notes, and gold in my pocket. I was getting on ; but I had enemies — why, I know not — who played me many a scurvy trick. My petty cash was often pilfered, my desk being opened by other keys. I was ordered on private errands for other clerks, and when I refused to execute them, I was " paid off" by extra work and malicious accusations. These were, however, entirely disproved. I had a steady friend in Mr Yates, and persevered in my work. The pleasantest part of my duty was arranging the samples of cotton according to their quality ; and I have been often called into the " parlour " to assist the partners in their deci- sions. I had a fine sense of touch, and became an adept in the manipulation of samples. One incident I have never forgotten. I was return- ing to the oifice late one evening, when, passing by the door of a chapel, and hearing groans and cries, I looked in. A person stationed at the door invited me to enter and "save my soul." The place, a large one, was in 1808-24.] ^ HARDSHIP. 13 profound darkness ; a candle here and there only made the gloom more impenetrable. People of both sexes were sitting in the pews, and shrill piercing cries arose of " Save me ! " " I'm going to hell ! " " I'm damned ! " " The devil has me ! " " I'm burning, burning ! " " Go away, Satan ! " " Jesus has got me ! " and the like, with prayers so profane and shocking that I dare not write them down. Sometimes one got up, man or woman, and gave his or her experience of sins and crimes, horrible to hear, but which, nevertheless, fascinated me. I know not how long I stayed, but a girl sat down by me at last and whispered, " Come and kiss me, you beautiful boy — come away." I gained the door, and fled rapidly in the darkness up the street. Early in 1824 the wretchedness I endured in the office reached its highest pitch, and malicious tales against me increased frightfully, accompanied by threats. I retorted by saying to those who were badgering me, that if I were not let alone I would tell certain things I knew of them. I was of course defied ; but I felt ill — I had a fearful cough, and the doctor said I was threatened with consumption ; so I wrote the whole story to my father, who had left Dublin and was settled at Apsley, near Hemel Hempstead in Hertfordshire, telling him that I must come home for change of air at once. I went into the "parlour" to consult Mr Yates, who agreed I had better go for a while. I was not strong enough for work, and my enemies in the office were veiy malicious. " And," he added, " tell your father, if there is any other opening for you he likes better, or that you wish yourself, I will give up your indentures." I had enough money of my own to pay my journey ; 14 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, I. and on' a bitteriy cold morning I monnted the roof of the London coach at the Saracen's Head, Dale Street, with a thankful heart, and was in my mother's arms on the following afternoon. How happy I need not say. My indenture^ were returned by Mr Yates, after some correspondence with my father, and I had ended that phase of my life, richer in experience and general know- ledge, but weak and delicate in health. With home care this soon improved. I was not long in suspense as to my future. My father became acquainted with Mr Baxter, a Bombay merchant, who wanted a young man to assist in the house at Bombay, and proposed to me to go out at once. It had been previously decided that I should go to Madeira for my health, so the proposal fitted admirably. We dined with Mr Baxter, who lived in splendid style, and the terms offered seemed to me and to my father exceptionally good. I was to receive a large and yearly increasing salary, live in Mr Baxter's family, and to be admitted as an eighth partner when I became of age. My mother's cousin, Mr Newnham, was holding the high office of Chief Secretary to Government at Bombay, and would no doubt look after me ; and I was considered a very lucky boy witli excellent prospects. My outfit was at once ordered, my passage taken in the Upton Castle, permission having been obtained for me to reside in India, and I returned for a few short precious days to Apsley. I will not dwell on this period ; it is even yet sacred to me ; but at length the 15th April came, and I parted from my dear mother in bitter grief, never to see her again. My father took me down to Greenwich in a wherry, with my boxes, and we found 1808-21] DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 15 the Upton Castle there. We dined at the Falcon, and in the evening went on board. My father gave me much excellent advice and bid me good-bye, both he and I firmly believing that I should return in "no time," rich and prosperous, a partner in Baxter's house. When I awoke next morning, our ship was anchored off Gravesend waiting for the captain and some of the passengers : when these arrived, we put to sea. So ended my boyhood in England. I had completed my fifteenth year the previous September, 15 CHAPTEK II. 1824. We knocked about for a week in the Channel owing to strong adverse winds, and at last anchored off Spithead to wait for a fair breeze, and I wrote to my brother a long cheery letter detailing many a " castle in the air," and hope of great things to come. On the 26th April we finally put to sea. We reached Funchal, Madeira, on the 26th May. I had excellent introductions from my father's relations, Mr and Mrs Leacock, and I was very kindly received on my arrival. I saw a great deal of the island, many new sights and much wonderful scenery, which I find described in a long letter written to my mother. We were about ten days at Madeira taking in wine for India. I was on shore aU the time, and I believe some of the passengers were surprised to find " the boy for Baxter's " at dinner-parties and the chief houses of the island. Certainly, several who had not before noticed me now began to do so. The captain and chief officer taught me the use of the sextant and to make observations, and I was soon able to be of use. Some one lent me Gilchrist's Hindostanee Grammar, and taught me to pronounce the words, so I was able to make some progress. 1824] PIRATES. 17 The Upton Castle was frigate - built, and carried eighteen guns, and it was necessary to keep a good look-out against pirate cruisers about the latitude of the Azores. We were all told off to quarters, and I was constituted captain of the mizzen-top, my favourite resort for reading, and which now was garrisoned by six stout boys besides myself. One night I was keeping the first watch with Mr Duggan the second officer, when just as the lights were being put out I raised the glass, and saw a large felucca close to us on the windward quarter. I raised an alarm, and although we hailed her several times, no answer was given. I think I hear now Mr Duggan's order to me to "fire," and see the long dark ship, with all its moving dusky forms, plunging past us. I fired two muskets in rapid succession ; but the stranger did not turn, and we sent a parting shot after her. Our ship was in a state of wild excitement, and groups of passengers, ladies and gentlemen in every variety of costume, were gathered on deck. We had no further alarms after this. We were becahned on the line for nearly three weeks, dull and insufferably hot. We welcomed Neptune and Mrs Neptune on board in the approved old fashion, and I was scraped with a hoop and well ducked, but was spared the tarring. We had one terrible gale off the Cape, but got off without much damage. I had a narrow escape of my life, one day : I was upon the dolphin-striker and had struck two, and hit a third, and the " quiver " held ; but instead of disengaging the line from my arm it became twisted round my wrist, and had I not been lashed to the dolphin-striker I must have been inevitably dragged into the sea. The wounded fish turned in a last struggle, and I got the line free. My arm was very painful for 18 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. h. some time, and I made no further attempts to strike dolphins. As we neared Bombay one of the passengers took me aside, and asked me concerning my past life and future prospects very kindly. I told him all, and the arrange, ments which had been made for me in Baxter's house, and that I believed it to be a great mercantile firm. On this point I was now undeceived, as my friend said Mr Baxter's was simply a large shop ; that they had been in a fair way of business, but that Mr Baxter's extravar gance in London had been such that it was possible the firm might no longer even exist. However, he added, you have made many friends among us ; we are all in- terested in you, and will help you if we can. I told him of my letters to Mr Newnham and others, and he said it was impossible to have a better or more influen- tial friend. "I think," he said, "you wiU not be long at Baxter's, and we shall soon see you take your proper place in society." Among the ladies, especially, I had excited an interest by rescuing one of them, a lovely girl, firom a watery grave. She had incautiously opened her port-hole during a storm, keeping the cabin-door shut. A great green sea poured in, flooding the whole place. I fortunately heard the rush of water, and forc- ing open the door of her cabin, found her lying face downwards in the water, which was pouring over the steerage deck. I carried her to the cabin of another lady and put her in, and next day was very sweetly thanked for my services. All things considered, my voyage had been a very pleasant one. We anchored in Bombay harbour on the night of the 1st of September 1824, having been four months and a half at sea, and the whole of that glorious 1824.] ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY. 19 panorama opened on my sight as I rose early in the morning to have " a look at India." I find a long letter written to my mother, dated Sep- tember 3, part of which I am tempted to insert as my first impressions of Bombay : — " Bombay, September 3, 1824. " My dearest Mother, — After a long but fine passage of four months and some days, I have arrived at the house of Mr Osborne, with whom I have every expecta- tion of being extremely comfortable ; but having been only here a day, I can hardly judge how I shall like the business that I am about to embark in, in the town of Bombay. " I have arrived at a very good time of the year, as the weather, with the exception of next month, which is a hot one, will get cooler and cooler every day. Even now the evenings and mornings, which is the only time you can stir out, except in a palankeen, are delightfully cool and pleasant. " But one of the greatest annoyances here are the mosquitoes, which bite terribly ; but as yet I have escaped their torments. " At about half-past ten on the morning of the 1st, land was descried from the mast-head, which proved to be the high land outside Bombay harbour. " I was employed below, packing up all my goods and chattels, so that I did not come on deck till about three in the afternoon, when by that time we were close to it. It is fine high land, and is covered with green in many places — a welcome sight for us who had been so long at sea. We passed, also, two very pretty small islands, called Hennery and Kennery, all covered with trees to 20 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, il the water's edge ; but as it was by this time six o'clock, we could not see the beautiful verdure of the trees ; and as we entered the harbour by night, we missed a very fine sight, as the entrance to the harbour is reckoned one of the finest in the world. At half-past twelve we cast anchor in Bombay roads, about three miles from the town, intending to drop down early in the morning. Accordingly, when the pilot came on board about four o'clock, we weighed, and dropped down opposite the town, where we cast anchor for good about a mile from the shore. As soon as we had come to an anchor, we were surrounded by boats fiUed with black fellows, naked excepting a piece of cotton-stuff tied round their waist, offering fruit, eggs, milk, &c., of which you may be sure we all ate very heartily by way of a treat About twelve o'clock I hired a boat and went ashore, taking with me all the clean clothes I had, which had dwindled to about half-a-dozen clean shirts, as many stockings, and one pair of trousers — rather a slender stock ! The moment I got ashore, I hired a palankeen and went to Baxter Bros., where I was received by Mr Osborne, the manager, who did not know of my ap- pointment, but was very kind. He offered me his palan- keen to go about in, and recommended me to deliver my letters ; and I set out for Mr Newnham's, who was very kind, offered me his advice whenever I stood in need and told me if he could do me any service, he would with the greatest pleasure. I then went to Mr Wode- house, who asked me if I was entirely engaged to Baxter's ; and when I told him I believed I was I thought he looked disappointed. "... Nothing goes down here but the ' Com- pany,' and it is indeed an excellent service. There are 1824.] FIRST IMPEESSIONS. 21 the writers, for instance ; as soon as they arrive in India, they have their three hundred rupees a-month, and nothing to do but to learn the Hindostanee and Persian languages, and ride about in palankeens, with a score of black fellows at their heels. In this country there are lots of servants, and they are the laziest lot of rascals under the sun. One fellow will not do two things. If you have a fellow to brush your shoes, he will not go on an errand. One of our passengers hired eighteen ser- vants the moment he landed ! But their wages are very cheap. You get these fellows for 2, 3, 4, and 6 rupees a-month, and have not to clothe them or any- thing. ... A shirt here lasts only a day — some- times not even that. Fortunately washing is very cheap, only three rupees a-month, and you may dirty as many things as you like. I think the climate will agree with me ; I do not find the heat oppressive. . . . Last night I had a walk on the esplanade, which was crowded with vehicles, carriages, gigs, and buggies, of all sorts, shapes, and sizes. Bombay is a fort ; but the fortifica- tions are not in good order. It is a pleasant walk round the top of the ramparts. I have not seen any of the passengers since I came ashore. I suppose they will all be too proud to speak to me now ; but, fortunately, there was not one I cared twopence for, except young Shepheard ; that's a comfort. . . . The language is not difficult to get a knowledge of; but to be a good grammatical scholar is diflScult, as it is not a written language. But Gilchrist, of London, has invented a way of writing it in English letters. The natives transact their business in Persian, which is a written language. This is a festival day, and the natives walk in a sort of procession, with a kind of drum, making a terrible noise. 22 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. n. They dress up in the most ridiculous manner, carry torches in their hatids, and go on with all sorts of antics. . . . I have written you a long letter, and told you all I could think of. I shall be in daily expectation of hearing from you, and can assure you there is nothing so disappointing as a ship from England without a letter from yourself. — I am your affectionate son, M. T. " P.S. — Pray give my love to all friends at home and in London, where, I daresay, they have not forgotten me. Also to all dear fidends in Dublin. When you see the boys, kiss them for me, and tell them the black fel- lows are such queer ' jummies,' with large bracelets on their arms and thighs made of silver, and rings through their noses, and strings of beads round their necks, and almost naked. " Kiss dear Johnny for me a hundred times. I daresay he still remembers me ; and give my love to Bella. " We are going to have a new Governor, as Mr Elphin- stone is going to Madras, and a Mr Lushington of the Treasury is coming out to succeed him. The present Governor is very much liked, and the inhabitants will be sorry to part with him. "Mr Osborne lives in a very pleasant part of the town, fronting the esplanade, close to the fort- walls. We can see the sea — in fact, it is close by — so that we have the sea-breeze aU day long, without which it would be miserably hot. The houses are all built very large — large rooms, &c. ; and the staircases are wide and airy. " And now, dearest mother, I must close this letter, wishing you health and happiness ; and that God may send His blessing upon you and my dear father is the constant prayer of your affectionate son." 1824.] LIFE AT BAXTER'S. 23 I had a comfortable room at Mr Osborne's, and lived with him and his wife. He was in. much perplexity about me, as he continued to receive no instructions, and the affairs of the house grew worse and worse. I could be given no salary, and as to the eighth share which I was to receive after five years, Mr Osborne considered it purely imaginary, and his hope seemed to be that Mr Newnham or Mr Wodehouse would provide for me and relieve him of the responsibility. I did not write home any complaints or misgivings, but set to work to give what I could in return for the food, shelter, and indeed clothing, that Mr Osborne kindly supplied me with. I could do but little in the ofSce, or help in accounts I did not understand at first. I could, however, make out bills for goods supplied — wine, beer, and groceries ; could draft copies of outstanding accounts, and letters for Mr Osborne to sign. I had to sell in the shop both to ladies and gentlemen. I even one day sold some articles to the young lady I had rescued on board, and she presented me to her ■ father. Colonel , with a pretty little speech, telling him the story ; and the old gentleman shook me warmly by the hand and thanked me. I often breakfasted with Mr Newnham, but Mr Wode- house seemed almost more anxious on my account, and often looked into the shop. So I plodded on, Mr Osborne looking anxiously for letters about me that never came, and vexing himself by vain regrets. My time of deliverance was not far distant. Mr Newn- ham one morning sent his palankeen for me, with a note saying he had something to tell me, and he showed me a letter from Sir Charles Metcalf, then Eesident at Hyderabad, stating that he had procured me a commis- 24 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. u. sion in his Highness the Nizam's army, and the sooner I went Tip to Anrungabad the better. I was of course astonished at this, but without any hesitation I accepted it at once, feeling very sure I had found a better opening than before. Only, how to get free of Baxter's ? Mr Newnham wrote to Mr Osborne asking that my inden- tures might be cancelled. Of course Mr Osborne was surprised, but very kindly said he would not stand in my way ; that I was a fortunate fellow to have such a friend and get such an appointment, and next day gave me back my indentures. I find in a letter from Mr Newnham to my mother that "he is happy to teU her, her son will now quit the shop and move in his proper sphere. The Nizam's service," he continues, " holds out the most flattering prospects ; and if he qualifies himself in points of duty and in acquaintance with the native languages, the road to high and lucrative employment will be open to him. He will remove to my house, where he wUl remain tiU he is ready to proceed to Aurungabad, where his military service wUl commence. I shall be very happy if this change in his circumstances should prove agreeable to you and Mr Taylor. He is a fine intelli- gent lad, and I saw him, with regret, articled to a house which is not in as flourishing a state as you were led to believe. — Yours very faithfully, " William Newnham." I removed to a small bungalow within Mr Newnham's "compound," and a Parsee servant was appointed to attend me, who spoke good English ; but I had not been idle, and could make myself understood pretty well, my ear guiding me to a good pronunciation. 1824.] DELIVEEANCE. 25 Arrangements for my military outfit proceeded. I need- ed of course uniform, tents, clothes, &c., and my gen- erous friend, Mr Newnliam, gave me a splendid chest- nut Arab, which had belonged to his late wife. How pleased he was that I was out of " that shop " — that I was no longer " Baxter's boy " ! indeed I am sure he felt his own dignity insulted as long as I was there. "Now," he said, "you are Lieutenant Meadows Taylor of his Highness the Nizam's service, and we all drink your health, and wish you success." One other temptation assailed me. Mr Shotton, the head of the great mercantile firm of that name, pressed me to throw aside military service and join his House. The prospects were very tempting, and Mr Newnham was greatly troubled as to what was best for me to do. Finally it was arranged that Mr Newnham and Mr Wodehouse should decide ; and their fiat went forth that I was to be a soldier. They were right ; the great House perished too, and I should have been again on the world. So when my kit was ready I left Bombay. Mr Newn- ham had generously advanced every rupee of my out- fit, and I was to repay him as I could ; and on the 18th November 1824 I started for Aurungabad. 26 CHAPTER IIL 1825-29. What was I to see in the new strange world now open- ing before me ? What was I to do and to be ? My heart was full of hope, and my ambitions ran high that morning as I parted from my kind friend Mr Newnham, whose last words rang in my ears — " As soon as you have proved that you can be useful, you will be made useful," he said ; " be diligent and be steady, and I have no fear for you. Now go." My things had been sent on in advance, and what little I had with me was abeady in the boat at the Apollo Bunder, in charge of Dorabjee, my Parsee servant. We pushed off as I entered the boat, and dashed away over the clear water. The harbour was gay with shipping, and the giant Gheits in the background were wreathed with fleecy white clouds about their summits. I was in wUd spirits, and could scarcely restrain myself, it was so glorious and so beautiful. I found my horse and pony, tents and baggage, at Panwell, where I landed, and in the evening went on to Ghowke. There I had the first sight of a splendid Indian encampment ; the Kesident at Nagpore, Sir Richard Jenkins, being on his way to Bombay. The 1825-29.] THE FIliST MAECH. 27 scene was very strange to me. The stately white tents, the camels depositing their burthens, the huge ele- phants, the native gentlemen arriving in palankeens, surrounded by their numberless attendants, the camp bazaar, with its booths and stalls, the variety of dresses, colours, and equipments — all formed a scene of Eastern splendour such as I could never have imagined. As I was strolling idly along, I was accosted by an officer, and we fell into friendly chat ; and when he knew where I was going, and who I was, he invited me to breakfast, assuring me that any friend of Mr Newnham's would be welcome to Sir Eichard. I was kindly received by the Eesident, and again invited to dinner in the evening, and I felt no small gratification at such kind notice being bestowed on me. Next morning I reached the foot of the GhS,ts, and proceeded by the military road. How grand it was ! Deep glens and ravines, bounded by tremendous preci- pices ; trees and flowers all new to me ; and fresh invigorating air, so cold and bracing, and so like, I thought, to dear old England ! On the 24th November I arrived at Poena, and was hospitably entertained by the officers of H.M. 67th Eegiment at their mess. . I was shown all the sights during our evening rides, and the temple where the " Peshwah " sat in state to see the English annihilated by his army, which, instead, was defeated at Kirkee, in 1817, — and many other scenes of interest ; but I knew little then of Dekhan history. We reached Ahmednugger on the 29th, and were hospitably entertained by Mr Seton, Assistant Com- missioner. I spent a most interesting day there, and finally arrived at Aurungabad on the 5th December. 28 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. hi. The laBt marches had been through dull dreary- country, endless stony plains, with scarcely a tree to break the monotony. But as I approached Aurunga- I bad, I saw the beautiful dome and minarets of the tomb of Aurungzeeb's daughter glistening in the sun, and troops at drill in the parade-ground. My tent was pitched near the mess-house ; but Dr Young came for- ward to meet me, and hospitably insisted that I. should be his guest till I had a house of my own. I reported myself to the ofiScer in command after breakfast, was put in orders, and directed to attend drill. A few days later, it was arranged that I should live with Lieutenant John Stirling, who had recently joined the 6th Eegiment from the Bombay army, and who had a house much too large for him. He was a noble fellow, both in person and disposition, and his untimely death ended, too soon, a friendship to which I look back as one of my greatest pleasures. I was not long in learning my drill, and was put in charge of the two centre companies, was shown how to keep the books and pay accounts, which soon became very easy to me. The adjutant took great pains with me ; and I engaged a Moonshee or native teacher, and began Hindostanee in earnest. I witnessed a curious spectacle at Aurungabad, in the shape of a miracle-play, which was annually performed under the auspices of one Major Freeman, who com- manded the invalid battalion at Aurungabad. During the early Mussulman period, the kings of Beejapoor had received and endowed many Portuguese Christian missions, and one had been located at Aurungabad, where delicious oranges and purple and white grapes still attest the fact of its former presence. A miracle- 1825-29.] MIRACLE-PLAY. 29 play of tlie life of our Lord was performed there by them, beginning with the scene of His birth, and end- ing with the Crucifixion. Although, no doubt, it could not bear comparison with that of Ammergau, yet it was very curious and strange. Portuguese monks chanted the story in their own tongue, interspersed with bad Hindostanee, but the effect was very impressive ; and the last scene, a real man hanging to the cross, was the signal for wailing and groaning from the specta- tors, who looked on with awe and wonder. The ceremony may have died out with its patron and supporter, Major Freeman, but when I saw it the spec- tacle was complete. This Major Freeman was a strange character. When his wife was very ill, a religious friend offered to read and pray beside her, but he declined, say- ing, in his broken English, " My dears friends, I do not want yous. I'se got Catholic priests, they prays for my wife; Brahmins makes yiJps * for my wife ; Gosains sits in de water for my wife ; Mussulmans fakeers makes prayers for my wife ; I prays myself for my wife. Little of alls is best, dear friend. Now you goes away, if you please." I must apologise for the above digression, and con- tinue my story. We were often out shooting and coursing, and one day heard of a noble boar at a village some twelve miles off. We determined to slay him without delay ; and sure enough I saw soon the great grey brute emerge from behind a bush, and Stirling and I dashed after him. My horse, however, struck his chest against the opposite bank in attempting to clear a small water- course, and both he and I were a good deal bruised. * Incantations. 30 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. But I followed Stirling as soon as I could, and met him on foot covered with blood. " The beast has up- set me and my horse," he said; "go and kiU him.." I rode on some little way, and encountered the hog with Stirling's spear sticking through him behind the ear. My own spear had been broken in my fall, and was useless, and I sent for another. Meantime the brute took to a sugar-cane field, and could not be dislodged, charging all who ventured near him ; and at last, when one poor fellow had been badly wounded, I thought it better to send for my gun, and I fired exactly between the two fierce red eyes that I saw glaring at me a few yards off, and the huge beast rolled over dead. What a reception I had ! I shall never forget it. Stirling abused me soundly for spoiling the fame of the affair by shooting the hog, and it was quite in vain that I protested that no amount of "buksheesh" would induce the beaters to go near the sugar-cane. At last he was pacified, and we set off home again. My friend's wound was a bad one, and we had it properly dressed. The boar arrived soon afterwards, slung on two poles, and the whole station, ladies and all, came out to see it. I killed many a hog afterwards, but never one so large. These were jolly days — plenty of hunting and cours- ing, and association with many bright, noble hearts now gone to their last long home. Erskine, Harris, Seton, James Outram, and others whom I proudly called my friends, were among that goodly-spirited company. Who of them are left now ? This is no place to detail hunting exploits or tales of hard riding ; but I am sure my association with these 1825-29.] JUNGLE FEVER. 31 bold, true sportsmen gave a manlier, hardier tone to my mind, and was of great service to me. I suppose I acquitted myself well as a soldier, for I was chosen for detachment duty in the rainy season of 1825, and ordered to Kanhur, with 200 men, to support a detachment of the Company's 23d Eegiment, then act- ing against the Bheels, who were in rebellion. I do not remember that we caught any of the rebels, although we followed them into their fastnesses ; but instead, I caught very severe jungle fever, which nearly put an end to me. I partially recovered, but had a relapse on my return to Aurungabad, and barely escaped with my life. I was allowed four months' leave, and my kind friend Mr Newnham wished me to come to him. I was put into a palankeen, but was so iU at Ahmed- nugger that I was given over. At Poena I was again despaired of ; but I reached Bombay at length, and the pure sea air and Mr Newnham's kind mirsing soon re- stored me, and I regained my strength rapidly. My financial affairs were by no means satisfactory. No pay had been given by the Nizam's Government for the last six months, and there was no such thing as getting it. I had been obliged to borrow very con- siderably ; and it was a weary business perpetually borrowing at from 24 to 35 per cent when my pay would have covered all expenses had I been able to get it. I explained all this to Mr Newnham, and also the rumours current that the East India Com- pany were bent upon doing away with the Nizam's force altogether. He had heard the same, but bid me not despair. He thought things would improve, and there was always "Shotton's House," then flour- ishing, to fall back upon. 32 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. I remained with Mr Newnham for three months, and then returned well and strong to Aurungabad. I found letters from home awaiting me. I do not think my father liked my change of profession much. He thought we had decided hastily ; and there was also a very curious letter from my grandfather, who had a remark- able dislike to a military career. " He could only pro- test," he wrote, "that it was against the laws of God that men should deliberately slay their fellow-men ; and what would my feelings be if I had to kill a man (though he might be a black one) with my own hand ? " and much more to the same effect. My dear mother, how- ever, encouraged me to persevere diligently in the career I had adopted, and her counsels had most weight with me, and her words went straight to my heart. Major Sayer had succeeded to the command of the Aurungabad Division, and proved a very valuable friend to me. He assisted me in my Persian and Hindostanee studies, and told me to bring him my translations occa- sionally to look over. What could be kinder ! I was a stranger to him, and had no introduction ; but he inter- ested himself about me, and encouraged me to work on. With his help I soon made considerable progress. There were no formal examinations in those days ; but as a test of efficiency, I was directed to superintend regi- mental courts-martial, and record the evidence in Eng- lish, and the finding of the court. In these I took my turn with Lieutenant Johnston, the adjutant, and as a reward the command of the Light Company was be- stowed upon me for "good conduct." With the exception of one month's leave, which I spent out tiger-shooting with a friend, I was very busy 1825-29.] STATION LIFE. 33 at home. I enjoyed my month's sport very much. We slew several tigers, and an occasional hog-hunt was not wanting. Small game, too, abounded — partridges and quail, pea-fowl and hares — and our bags were often heavy. One accomplishment I began to practise at this time. My friend was an artist, and took beautiful sketches from nature. He encouraged me to try also, and from this period dates one of the greatest pleasures of my life. He taught me as far as he could. I have the original sketches of that time — very minute, and highly finished with a fine pen — the buildings rather on the incline, and the style stiff and formal ; but every- thing has a beginning. When my leave expired I re- turned to Aurungabad, and began a course of reading with Colonel Sayer, which was of great use to me. Better times came — my pay was more regular, and the debt to Mr Newnham was almost paid oS. I was very comfortable — had a good house and pleasant garden, plenty of friends, and a hopeful spirit. About the middle of the year I was appointed inter- preter to a general court-martial on a native officer of artillery — the highest linguistic test that could be ap- plied to me in those days. I had some misgivings as to the result, but I ultimately performed my task so much to the satisfaction of the officer who had conducted the trial, that he wrote a special letter on the subject, commending my usefulness to him in " this protracted and diflScult investigation." " Now you are fit for any stafi" duty," said the colonel, " and I hope you won't be long without it " — a wish I devoutly echoed. My Light Company was a fine one — mostly picked men from Oudh and Behar, handsome and athletic. I worked hard, and my men seconded me well, and the 34 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. hi. result was to me very satisfactory. "We were reviewed, and I received the following flattering compliment from the officer in command : " I beg," he said to our colonel, " you will convey to the officer in charge of your Light Company my very best thanks, and tell him his perfor- mance this morning has been of the highest credit to him. I have noticed, with particular satisfaction, his unwearied exertions during the whole of the morning ; and the appearance of the men under his command, and their steady conduct, bear testimony to his zeal as an. officer." This to me ! and before every one too ! Need I say how full my heart was ? About this time Mr Martm, now Eesident at Hyder- abad, who also, ex officio, commanded the whole army, issued an order, " that he was about to start on a tour of inspection, and with a view to rewarding merit wher- ever it should be found, he should advance such officers as were specially brought to his notice, and as a proof thereof, had selected Lieutenant Hampton from the whole army to the honorary post of commander of his escort," &c. Now Hampton was only a local officer like myself, and I, like many others, began to speculate on the possibilities of good things in store. Meanwhile I was very busy. Colonel Sayer had wished me to acquire some knowledge of military sur- veying and fortification, and I had made a survey of the cantonment with only a compass, a chain and cross-staff, and a perambulator. I should have done my work bet- ter with a sextant ; but there was not one to be had. However, as it was, I received thanks for my report when it reached the Eesidency at Hyderabad, and I was much gratified. At last the Eesident arrived with a briUiant staff; 1825-29.] FIRST STAFF APPOINTMENT. 35 the station was very gay, and I was presented with all the other officers. Hampton had been promoted, and therefore the command of the escort was vacant. The Eesident's camp was to move on next morning. After dinner Colonel Sayer took me np to Mr Martin, saying, " Allow me, sir, specially to introduce my young friend here, of whom I have had already occasion to report favourably, officially ; I beg you to keep him in mind." "Will you take the command of my escort by way of a beginning?" said the Eesident. "I shall be happy to have you on my personal staff if you are sufficiently acquainted with the native language.'' This the good colonel answered for, and I was told to prepare without further delay. I don't know how I got away : I only remember trying to keep down a big lump that rose in my throat, and the colonel saying to me, " Now you've got a start — you will never disappoint me, I know.'' All the ladies and gentlemen of the station were present, and crowded round me with congratulations ; one of my friends came back with me to my house ; my things were packed ; we sent to the city for camels for my tents and baggage, which were despatched as quick- ly as possible. The night passed — I do not think I slept — and by dawn I was in my saddle, and joined the officers of the Eesident's staff as they were starting on their morning stage. It was a sudden change in my life : what might be the next ? The Eesident expressed himself much pleased when I presented myself at breakfast when the camp halted at a short stage from Aurungabad. We had killed two foxes by the way, my dogs having been posted before- hand. " So you can ride," said one of my new com- panions. I was then 9 stone 8 lb., and well mounted, 36 STORY OF MY LIFE. [oHAP. m. as I had my chestnut, and a splendid bay hunter which Stirling had given to me. Yes ; I could ride. After breakfast Mr Martin sent for me, and asked me about my family and what I could do. He then set me to converse with his Moonshee, which I found very easy. I had learned to speak Hindostanee like a gen- tleman ; and here let me impress upon aU beginners the great advantage it is to learn to speak in a gentlemanly fashion. It may be a little more difficult to acquire the idioms ; but it is well worth while. There are modes of address suitable to all ranks and classes, and often our people unintentionally insult a native gentleman by speaking to him as they would to their servants, through ignorance of the proper form of address. I was also examined in Persian, and Mr Martin com- plimented me on my diligence. The march was delight- ful, and the sport plentiful ; small game abounded, and we had an occasional 'stalk after antelope — sometimes, too, a tiger was reported. The Eesident always gave me some work to do, and the days flew by very pleas- antly. We halted at Mominabad, a large cavalry sta- tion, where there were brilliant reviews, and levees of native officers, and much feasting. My dear friend Stirling had been promoted to the civil department, and was Superintendent of a large district to the south • but the day after we reached Mominabad, the Resident received an express stating that Stirling had been killed in a fight with some Arabs who had gained possession of the town of Dundooty ; that Major Sutherland was about to march there with his whole force, and if the Eesident had any instructions to give, they were to be sent to meet him at Owsa. I was inexpressibly shocked at this sad occurrence : not only had Stirling been very 1825-29.] A DAZZLING PEOSPEOT. 37 dear to me as a friend, but he was in all respects a preux chevalier, whom it had been my wish to imitate. On consulting the map I found Owsa was not more than thirty-five miles distant, and that I could ride on there and join the force. I went to Mr Martin and entreated permission to go ; and I prevailed. Before leaving him, he said very kindly, " I find you quite qualified for civil employ, and shall therefore nominate you to succeed your friend ; but the appointment must be confirmed by the Supreme Government, so you had better come to me at Hyderabad straight from Dun- dooty."" I was fairly astonished. The department into which I was to be transferred was the height of my ambition ; the pay was 1500 rupees a-month ! How I thanked Mr Martin, or how I got away, I know not ; and between my sorrow for my friend and my own unexpected stroke of fortune, my head was in a whirl. I left the camp that afternoon with two troopers as escort, but the road was unfamiliar, and we were often misled, and it was not till early morning that we reached the cavalry camp as the bugles were sounding to " boot and saddle." We were just in time to join the forces and ride on with them another twenty coss, or forty miles. Of course Major Sutherland was surprised to see me, but the letters I had with me explained everything ; and after a cup of coffee we rode on. We had a good rest at the end of the stage, and then proceeded to Gulburgah, another twenty miles, whence, after resting, we were to go on to Dun- dooty, eighteen miles further. It had been arranged that the Arabs in possession of the fort were to be at once summoned to lay down their arms and submit unconditionally ; if they refused, the place was to be 38 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [oHAP. m. stormed at daylight next morning. To me was allotted one division of the stormers with their native ofSoers, and all preliminaries were arranged. I think few of the Arabs would have been left had the attack been made, as Stirling was very popular and aU were anxious to avenge his death ; but as we approached the town we heard the beat of the Arab drum and saw the enemy moving off with their colours flying, by the Hyderabad road. The Commissioner had given permission to the Arabs to depart in peace, and thus they escaped our vengeance. I had not felt tired, and even came in first in a race proposed by one of the officers. As I sUd from my horse, however, I felt very stiff, and sitting on the ground, found I had no power to rise. The surgeon declared my condition to be caused by temporary par- alysis of the spine consequent on my long ride of 113 miles, and I did not recover at all till the afternoon of the next day, when a painful tingling sensation set in in my legs and back, and I soon was able to sit up. It was very clear if we had had anything to do, I should have been unable to join in it. After^investigation proved that my poor friend Stir- ling had met his death by his own rashness, in pro- ceeding alone to force the gate of the town with only twelve men against more than a hundred Arabs. As soon as the gate was opened, he fell dead, riddled by four balls which pierced his chest. In a few days the inquiry ended, and there being nothing to detain me, I was to proceed to Hyderabad. The evening before Major Sutherland came to me as I was sitting on the grass near poor Stirling's grave, and said, " I know you have been appointed by the Eesident to succeed Stir- 1825-29.] DEATH OF STIRLING. 39 ling, and that you are only awaiting the confirmation of your appointment by the Supreme Government. Now this is very creditable to you ; but I have considered the matter very deeply, and I do not think it likely that your appointment will be confirmed. Mr Martin's pa- tronage in the civil department will be curtailed con- siderably ; and what I propose to you is this — do not go to Hyderabad. I want an adjutant here for one of the regiments. I will appoint you, pending your final transfer to the cavalry. You ride well, our men like you, and the pay is very good." It was a tempting proposal. My first wish had been to join the cavalry ; and yet, when the offer was made, could I give up the chance of the coveted civil employ and the splendid opening it afforded me ? Nor could I find out that my kind friend was sure of his nomination being confirmed either. How, too, could I disappoint the Eesident ? or how encoxmter the heavy expenses of a rich cavalry uniform with equipment and chargers? All this flashed through my mind in a moment, and I was not long in making my decision. I could only thank Major Sutherland, and say that " if I did not succeed in obtaining the civO. appointment, I would request Mr Martin to put me into the cavalry.'' " It will be too late then, Taylor," he said, smiling ; " the Military Secretary will fiU. up the appointment at once, and I wanted you." " I cannot give up," I replied, " what may be already settled for aught I know." " Be it so," he answered, " I can say no more." Then he, his brother, and I discussed the matter in aU its bearings, and they thought I was right in adhering to my resolve. 40 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. hi. So next morning I started ; but at a place called Purgy I was taken ill, and but for the kindness of the native Talookdar, Nawab Futteli Jah Khan, who sent his physician to me and nursed me tenderly, it would have gone hard with me. At last he sent his own pal- ankeen, with orders that I was to be brought to his house for change of air. In vain I pleaded weakness and want of time. He would take no denial, and I went. This was my first introduction to the house of a native gentleman. " You are to be one of the family," said my host ; " you are only a boy, and the ladies vrill not miad you. My wife will look after you, and the chil- dren shall play with you, and I wiU send on your letters to Hyderabad." I stayed with these good people for a week, and was entertained most hospitably, and on leaving, presented my host with my old gun, to which he took a great fancy. He gave me a valuable sword and embroidered sword-belt, while his good lady begged my acceptance of a beautiful patchwork quilt and the bed I had slept in, which had very elaborately painted and gilt feet. I used these as long as they lasted. When I arrived at Hyderabad Mr Martin sent for me. My appointment had not been confirmed, and he was very sore about it ; I told him then what Major Suther- land had offered me. " Ah," said he, " bad luck pursues you : thinking you were surely provided for, I gave the cavaby adjutancy away where, indeed, it was already promised. You must not leave me though ; if you will join my household I wiU have you returned ' on special duty,' tin something offers worth giving you." Yes, — it was a great fall of all my castles in the air ; I was not to be a civil superintendent, I was not to be an adjutant 1825-29.] HYDERABAD. 41 of cavalry, and I had nothing to do but to wait on, I hope patiently. Mr Martin was very kind to me. I did what I could to help him in return, and found his splendid library an inexhaustible treasure-field. The State of Hyderabad in itself is by far the largest and most important Mussulman dominion in India. The city is walled all round, and cannot, therefore, be enlarged, but the adjacent suburbs increase rapidly, and the population cannot now be less than 350,000 souls. I enjoyed my early rides, free from parade and other morning duties, and came upon many a pictm-- esque scene, especially along the river, with the city walls and bastions on the one hand, and the native houses of the Begum Bazaar, with their fine trees, on the other. The river-bed, too, is always a stirring sight, with its countless groups of people bathing, washing clothes, or carrying away water from holes scooped in the sand ; elephants being washed or scrubbed with sand by their keepers, and evidently enjoying the operation. These, and many other objects, formed glowing pictures of colour and native costume of endless variety. The scenery, too, is very striking. From one favourite point of view of mine, the city lies stretched before yoii, the graceful " Char Minar " or gate of the " Four Minarets " in its centre ; the gigantic " Mecca mosque " standing out nobly ; while the large tank of " Meer AUum " lies at your feet, and the bold rock of the fort of Golcondah rises in the distance. From hence, a rising sun gradu- ally lighting up every object in the clear morning air, and the glowing glittering landscape terminating in the tender blue of the distance, is inexpressibly beautiful. There is also a favourite place of resort of an evening 42 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. m. for Mussulman gentlemen of the city on a knoll to the right of the Masulipatam road ; and I was often asked to sit down with them while their carpets were spread, and their attendants brought hookahs. Even thus early in my life, I began associating with native gentlemen, and observing their manners and customs, modes of speech and conversation. The glorious view, the air filled with golden light, the gorgeous sunsets, the mel- lowness which softened every object, made, I think, the evening even more beautiful than tlie morning. I loved to go there quietly and dream dreams. I was growing out of boyhood, and that period is always a momentous one to every man. I was sensitive and shy, and no doubt romantic. Mr Martin was always kind, and bade me be hopeful ; but I had been sorely disappointed, and felt often sad and dejected as to my prospects. At this time I was often at the house of Mr William Palmer, where I met the most intelligent members of Hyderabad society, both native and European, and the pleasant gatherings at his most hospitable house were a great relief from the state and formality of the Eesidency. I was not long destined to be idle. One day Mr Martin sent for me and told me that, under a recent arrangement in the military department, a smg-U ap- pointment on the general staff was at his disposal if I liked to accept it. I was delighted at the idea of hav- ing anything to do, and thanked him cordially for his kindness. The appointment was Superintendent of Bazaars at Bolarum, a cantonment of the Nizam's troops twelve, miles north of the Eesidency, on higher ground, and consequently cooler and more bracing. My duties were 1825-29.] MAGISTERIAL DUTIES. 43 simple enough. I had to regulate the markets and the prices of grain in conjunction with the principal mer- chants and grain-dealers. I was to decide all civil cases, try, and punish all breaches of the peace, and make daily reports to my superior ofiScer at ten o'clock every morning in person. I was to inspect all meat killed, both for the use of the troops and private consumption ; in fact, I was a sort of magistrate for the cantonment and its environs ; and, as one of the Division StaflF, had to attend the " Brigadier " at all parades and on field- days. I was, on the whole, well pleased with my office. Of course it was monotonous. What Indian staff appoint- ment, with a daily routine of work, is not ? I was enabled to discover and check various irregu- larities in the prices of grain and ghee or boiled butter, which had escaped my predecessor, and this made the sepoys my friends. The stores of grain were kept up at their fiill complement, and the force could have taken the field at an hour's notice. Every one pronounced the meat and bread better than before ; and as I had estab- lished a free market for vegetables, they were always plentiful and fresh. StiU, it was a troublesome post. Disputes often arose between masters and servants, debts by individuals, and the like ; but I believe I firmly gained the colonel's good- will by settling a dangerous quarrel between two in- fantry regiments which had arisen at one of the festivals. During the inquiry that followed, over which I presided, I found an opportunity of reconciliation, of which I availed myself, and the quarrel was made up out of hand. I did not enter much into general society at this 44 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. period. High play was the chief amusement which prevailed, and I never was at that time or at any time fond of cards, or did I ever play for money, except for the veriest trifle. I worked on as well as I conld, taking care not to neglect my Persian studies, and occasionally reading with a Moonshee or native teacher, and looked forward hopefully to the time when, by some possibility, I might gain an entrance into the Civil Service. The day came at length. An ofScer, who was Assistant Superinten- dent of Police in the S.W. district of the country, got tired of his solitary life, and proposed to exchange with me. Mr Martin at once consented to the step, and wrote to me very kindly on the subject, expressing his desire to serve me to the utmost of his power, and recommending me to accept the exchange. My arrangements were soon complete. I was to become proprietor of Captain L.'s bungalow at Sudashe- opett, with one or two tents ; he, of my " buggy " and horse, which I no longer needed. Furniture on both sides was valued ; and when we were respectively in '' orders," I betook myself to my new duties, of which the Eesident and his secretary gave me an outline ; but nothing very precise could be laid down respecting them, and I was left very much to exercise my own judgment. I left Bolarum with many expressions of kind regret from the colonel, who thanked me for my services, and declared himself well satisfied with me on all points, offering me a testimonial of good conduct and ability in case of my requiring one at any time. Now at last I was free ! — literally my own master. I had an immense tract of country to overlook, of which I 1825-29.] FKEE ! 45 knew nothing, except that in going to Dundooty I had crossed part of it. I took leave of the Kesident and of the Nizam's Minister, Chundoo Lall, who were both very- kind to me ; ' but of all the counsel and direction I re- ceived, I owe most of what was useful to me afterwards to Mr Palmer, and he offered to assist me by letter if I were in need of help. His grand-looking old mother, the Begum Sahib, blessed me, and tied a rupee in a silk handkerchief round my arm, praying the saints to have me in their holy keeping ; and I started on my journey, accompanied by my escort of police, and reached Suda- sheopett on the fourth day. I had not completed my eighteenth year. The northern boundary of my district may have been 250 miles in length, extending from Hyderabad to Pur- aindah, with stations at various intervals, of which Tool- japoor was one of the most important. Its general southern boundary was the Bheema river, to its junction with the Krishna, and its greatest breadth was from 50 to 60 miles, narrowing at either end. In all, it may have included from ten to twelve thousand square miles, and its population must have exceeded one million souls. My duties in the Eevenue Department were not to begin till the Superintendent made his tour through the district after the monsoon. My police duties were very clear. There were stations as nearly as possible every forty miles, where twelve mounted and ten foot police were posted ; and these went periodical patrols from their own station to the nest, returning every fortnight. Foot police were stationed in villages averaging three miles asunder, and patroUed their beat every day. If anything occurred it was reported to the jemadar, and 46 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, hl by him to me, if important ; otlierwise, it was entered in the diary, which was transmitted to me weekly. I had altogether 50 mounted and 150 foot police under my command. The road was an important one — the highroad to Bombay — and the patrols had had the effect of keeping off gangs of highway robbers and dacoits* which before the establishment of the force had become very bold and dangerous. My predecessor had been enjoined to take active measures for the suppression of these pests, but, so far as I could ascertain, had really done nothing. I assembled all my jemadars and native ofScers, and endeavoured to find out their views of what was most feasible to be done ; but I found most of them were men from a distance, and possessed little, if any, local knowledge. A district lay between the tract of land over which I had jurisdiction, and the river Mangera to the north, and it soon became plain to me that unless I had com- mand over this as well, I could do very little to check the depredations of the dacoits, who had, as was evident from the records, become the terror of this part of the country. I therefore applied for, and obtained, the necessary permission, and was soon free to act in all directions needful to my purpose. My position was a very pleasant one. My little bungalow was situated at the edge of a mango-grove, which lies behind the present travellers' bungalow. It consisted of one centre room, with a division all round, forming a dressing-room, bath-room, and store-room. Without, at a little distance, were the offices and kit- chen, and stabling for five horses. I could not immedi- * Dacoity, rol)bery with violence. 1825-29.] POLICE AKEANGEMBNTS. 47 ately start on my tour tlirougli the district, as it was the rainy season, but I had ample occupation. I gath- ered all the information I could with regard to thieves and robbers. I made a large collection of birds and insects for my uncle, Mr Prideaux Selby, of Twizell House, Northumberland, who was engaged upon his great work on Ornithology. Tree birds of all kinds abounded, while the tanks or reservoirs teemed with water-fowl of seemingly endless variety. I sent to Bombay for a Mahratta grammar, and began the study of that language, without which I plainly saw I could not get on. Teloogoo was the language of the people about Sudasheopett, and it changed to Canarese a little distance further ; but neither was a language of business. Mahratta was evidently the most useful of all. • I had plenty to do. Every morning brought in re- ports from my officers and men, which had to be answered and investigated. Then my early bag of birds had to be skinned and prepared ; English cor- respondence and my Mahratta lesson followed ; and I had always a box of books from the Secunderabad or Bolanim library to occupy my evenings. I kept Mr Newnham well informed of my doings, and his delight when I obtained this appointment was very sincere. I rode in to Hyderabad towards the close of the mon- soon to see Mr Martin, and I told him what I was doing, and that I was collecting all the information I could about the district. He desired me to march quietly up to a spot near the western frontier, as he might have occasion to employ me actively, but said he could not be more explicit just then. So, at the beginning of October, I joyfully betook myself to my tent-life, with 48 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. a sense of freedom and of joy which I still can vividly recall. I journeyed leisurely on. The country was open and beautiful, the various crops were being sown, the air felt dry and fresh, and the march was very enjoyable. I halted near Hominabad, and rode over to see the old city of Beeder, than which, I think, nothing could be more picturesque. Hominabad was a central point, where was concentrated all the trade in salt and spices from the western coast for Berar, receiving in return cotton, oil-seed, ginger, grain, &c. I found I could serve the merchants considerably, and one, Seth Atmaram, became my good friend ; but lir-et we had a quarrel. Some of my escort complained of short weight in their flom-, and I had the persons who sold it fined : where- upon the other flour and retail grain dealers shut theii shops, and went in a body to a grove, where they de- clared they would remain till I went away. I was cer- tainly not to be intimidated ; so I set up a bazaar of my own, which was well supplied by some Brinjaries, the old chief of whom had certificates from the Duke of Wellington for services in the Mahratta war. Provision- sellers came from other villages, and I was independent. An effort was made to induce me to send for the fugi- tives, but I refused ; then a complaint reached the Minister at Hyderabad, Eajah Chundoo Lall, that I had desolated the town by my violence, and estorted large sums of money from the chief merchants. Mr Martin requested an explanation from me, which I, of course, gave at once. Meantime my friends began to think they had gone too far, and brought a petition to the effect that I had been misled, and that they knew the veal culprits, with whom I could deal as I pleased, &o. 1825-29.] NEW DUTIES. 49 Mr Martin was now satisfied, and I deceived his com- mendation. The Minister sent down a special officer, who used a very lofty tone to the merchants, threatened a fine of 10,000 rupees, which I begged off; and he de- parted finally, with, no doubt, a very handsome private douceur in his pocket. When I next visited Hyderabad, old Chundoo Lall, giving me a poke in the ribs, said, grimly, " Ah, Taylor Sahib ! you should have let me put the screw on those Hominabad people. You had them down so completely — and they always defied me — I might have got a lakh out of them." " And lost your good name, Maharaj," I replied. "You should bestow half a lakh on me for being so careful of your good name and honour ! " There were no more complaints of false weights. The Dean of Guild and Town Council were made answerable for them, and the police had authority to inspect them from time to time. My next halt was at Tooljapoor, which I found a most picturesque delightful spot. I have made it the scene of my historical romancff, ' Tara,' because of its beauty and of its history, when in 1657 its temple was plun- dered by Afzool Khan, whose subsequent murder by Sivajee is still considered by the people as but a fitting retribution. The day I arrived, a Brahmin entered my cutcherry, or office-tent, sat down quietly in a corner, and after remaining a while silent, rose and said — " I hear you speak Mahratta ; is it so ? " " I am only a beginner," I replied ; " but I daresay I can follow you.'' " I am struck with your face,'' he continued, " and I should like to see your hand and cast your horoscope. Do you know when you were born ? " D 50 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. I gave him the date, and he proceeded to examine first my forehead and then my left hand. " It is a long and happy life on the whole," he said ; " but there are some crosses and some deep sorrows. Ton are not yet married, but you soon wiU be, and you will have chil- dren — not many — some of whom you will lose. You will never be rich, nor ever poor ; and yet much, very much, money will pass through your hands. Tou will not now stay long here ; but after many years you will return and rule over us. Fear nothing ; your destiny is under the planet Jupiter, and you will surely prosper." He added further details when he brought my horo- scope some hours later, one which especially struck me being that I should become a Eajah, and rule over a large tract of country to the south. I thought the affair curious enough, and wrote out a translation of it, which I sent home ; but, to my regret, have failed to find more than allusions to it in my father's letters to me. During that day my tent was beset by hundreds of pilgrims and travellers, crying' loudly for justice against the flour-sellers, who not only gave short weight in flour, but adulterated it so distressingly with sand, that the cakes made of it were uneatable, and had to be thrown away. I sent for the civil officer of the town, who declared the flour-sellers to be incorrigible, and that the complaint was perfectly true ; so I determined to take my own course. That evening I told some reliable men of my escort to go quietly into the bazaars, and each buy flour at a separate shop, being careful to note whose shop it was. The flour was brought to me. I tested every sample, and found it full of sand as I passed it under my teeth. 1825-29.] DISHONEST FLOUR-SELLEES. 51 I then desired that all the persons named in my list should be sent to me, with their baskets of flour, their weights and scales. Shortly afterwardskthey arrived, evidently suspecting nothing, and were placed in a row, seated on the grass before my tent. " Now,'' said I, gravely, " each of you are to weigh out a seer (two pounds) of your flour," which was done. " Is it for the pilgrims?" asked one. " No," said I, quietly, though I had much difficulty to keep my countenance. " You must eat it yourselves." They saw that I was in earnest, and offered to pay any fine I imposed. " Not so," I returned ; " you have made many eat your flour, why should you object to eat it yourselves ? " They were horribly frightened ; and, amid the jeers and screams of laughter of the bystanders, some of them actually began to eat, sputtering out the half-moistened flour, which could be heard crunching between their teeth. At last some of them flung themselves on their faces, abjectly beseeching pardon. " Swear," I cried, " swear by the holy mother in yon- der temple, that you will not fiU the mouths of her wor- shippers with dirt ! You have brought this on yourselves, and there is not a man in all the country who will not laugh at the bunnias (flour-sellers) who could not eat their own flxDur because it broke their teeth." So this episode terminated, and I heard no more com- plaints of bad flour. I received notice soon after that I was to proceed to Puraindah and take charge of a squadron of cavalry, which was to meet me there, and that I was to co-operate with the civil authorities of the Bombay Presidency for the suppression of the rebellion of Oomajee Naik — this 52 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ni. being the special service that Mr Martin had hinted to me. I marched at once, and found the squadron abeady there — two troops and their native officers. We were not idle. Oomajee Naik seemed to be ubiquitous, and we had many a weary, fruitless search for this noted and most mischievous brigand, whose robberies, often at- tended with violence, cattle-lifting, and all manner of villany, had become the terror of the country. Ooma- jee had a spite against all authority, hated both priestly and secular Brahmins, and enjoyed nothing more, if he could catch one, than cutting off his nose and ears. By his own people he was considered a hero. He was hunted down at last, after many years, by an English officer, who captured him as he was bathing in the river Bheema. He led us many a dance through the country, and often we were misled on false information. I scoured the hills and plains equally in vain, and became notorious by wearing a pair of red cloth trousers, made by a native artist, having worn out my own riding trousers com- pletely. At last Oomajee found the place was getting too hot for him, and withdrew, and we were released from our harassing work. I paid a pleasant visit to the Collector of Sholapoor, who, I remember, was much surprised at my youthful appearance, and we discussed together the best way to repress the great crime of cattle-lifting; which had been actively carried on for years. I was amused to meet at the hospitable Collector's table some of my old shipmates of the Upton Castle, and to witness their surprise to see '' Baxter's shop-boy " transformed into a grave Political Agent for the whole of the Nizam's frontier. They all congratulated me, and showed me every possible atten- tion during my stay. Mr Newnham wrote me a very 1825-29.] POLICE ORGANISATION. 53 gratifying letter, saying he had heard me praised offici- ally, and that he was quite satisfied with my progress. I returned to my own quarters, and on consulting with my native friends, found I had not sufficient power to carry out my scheme of organising the police as I wished, at once ; but I was advised to take one pergunna, or county, work that first, and then gradually extend my system. My district was much cut up by private estates, whose owners or managers defied or evaded the orders of the Nizam's executive government, and would only obey their own masters, some of whom were powerful nobles of Hyderabad, who jealously resented any inter- ference by the executive minister, while their agents were weU-knovm protectors of thieves and robbers, whose booty they shared. Evidently mine was no easy task, and I must make sure my footing before I could establish or carry out any measures of reform. I had a note from the Collector of Sholapoor request^ ing me to meet him at a town called Bursee, which I did, — killing two splendid hogs on the road, single- handed, and receiving much commendation from my friend, one of the greatest sportsmen of the Bombay side. A complaint was made to us by one of the native officers about the executive department of the Eevenue Survey, which was then proceeding : it was averred that bribes were taken and other corrupt practices carried on, and numerous documents were sent in as proof. We looked into the matter, and found not only much ground for complaint, but also that a great deal of the work was ' good for nothing. I had the pleasure afterwards of learning, through Mr Newnham, that I had been the means of bringing heavy frauds to light, and had done essential service. 54 STORY OF My life. [ouap. m. In regard to my plan of frontier police, the Collector saw many difficulties, unless, indeed, a regular force were organised ; and I had yet much to learn. I determined, therefore, to begin at my own end of the district first, quietly feeling my way. In some places my orders had met with a hearty response, in others they were totally disregarded. My camp was pitched at Ekhailee, when one afternoon I saw some persons carrying a native bedstead, which was put down opposite my tent : there was something lying upon it concealed by a bloody sheet ; when this was withdrawn, I saw a young Brahmin literally covered with sabre-cuts. He was very faint, but after the barber had dressed his wounds, he told his story, saying that the night before, the Eajah, as he was called, of Kur- rumkote, had attacked his house, had murdered his father, uncle, and grandmother, and had then proceeded to plunder the dwelling ; that the Eajah was still abroad, and purposed committing another dacoity that night at a viUage he named. There was no time to lose ; this at any rate might be prevented. I had ten mounted men and five available foot police, and I prepared in all haste. The perpetrator of the outrage was a noted character, Narrayan Eao, and I had heard of him as being a very dangerous man. His viUage was very strong, and he had recently repaired the garhy or castle, with its gates and bastions, and it held a strong garrison of despera- does. I was determined to have him if I could. My friend, Bulram Sing, knew the country well, and was our guide. We had thirty miles to march, but event- ually the night's work proved far more. It was dark as we neared the village of Cooloor, where 1825-29.] DACOITV. 55 the proposed dacoity was to take place, and leaving four men for its protection I took on the other nine, including Bulram Sing and another jemadar of police ; I had also two grooms who rode my baggage-ponies ; and these constituted my little party. We rode first to a town called Sooloopett, where Nar- rayan Eao was reported to have been seen in the bazaar; but we were at fault, as he had left it and gone, the ■ people said, to Cooloor ; but as there was no other road than the one by which we had just come, we knew this could not be the case. Bulram Sing fancied the Eajah must have heard of the wounded Brahmin having been brought to me, and therefore had retired to his fort ; and he. was right. We aU partook of some refreshment, as we were tired, and then started for Kurrumkote — the Eajah's village. It looked very strong as we approached in the early morning ; the fort stood out in the centre with its large bastions and loopholed walls, all in excellent repair. We halted under a little grove of mango-trees, and when the gate was opened to allow the cattle to come out, we rode in boldly, and though the guard seized their matchlocks, no one attempted to fire. In reply to their questions I answered, " I have been travel- ling all night, and am tired, and intend to rest here a while." " We will send word to the Eajah," said several. " No," I answered, " I will speak to him myself ; " and we rode up the main street. I thought for a moment that it was rather a rash proceeding, for on the bastions of the fort many men appeared, showing them- selves on the parapet and calling to us to go back. The Eajah lived in the fort, and some men came out 56 STORY OF MT LIFE. [chap. m. and stood on the steps leading up to it, and asked me what I wanted. " The Sahib Bahadur wishes to see your Eajah Sahib," said my jemadar, "and he is tired — he has ridden all night." " My master is asleep," rejoined the man, " and I dare not disturb him." " I must see him, and at once," I said ; " if he does not come, I shall go in myself," — and the spokesman went in, returning directly with a young fair man, who was tying a handkerchief round his head. He saluted me, and inquired haughtily, " why I had come into his town, into which no Feringhee had ever before entered without his leave ? " I stooped down and said in his ear, " You are my prisoner, and must come quietly with me ; if you or your people resist, I will drive my spear through your body. Now we will go, if you please." The street was narrow, and as my horsemen spread themselves behind us, no one could get near us. I do not remember ever feeling so excited as I did when the Eajah and I went down to the gate by which we had entered. He said nothing : but his men were crowding on the walls and house-tops, all armed and calling to each other. Perhaps they noticed that my long hog spear was within six inches of their Eajah's back ! When we reached the gate he merely said to the guard, " Don't follow, I shall return soon ; " and we all passed out safely. " Now," said I to one of my men, " let the Sahib ride, Bhudrinath ; " and as he dismounted from his mare, I bade Narrayan Eao get up. " If you don't, you're a dead man," I said ; and Bui- 1825-29.] THE CAPTUEE. 57 ram Sing advised liim to obey ; " for," said he, " if you do not do as my master orders you, he will put his spear through you." So the Eajah mounted, and as this was seen from the gate towers not a hundred and fifty yards from us, one of my men happening to look round, called out, " They are going to fire ; " and we had scarcely time to put our weary horses into a canter, when a regular volley was discharged, knocking up the dust behind us. Bhudrinath had scrambled up behind the Eajah with a merry laugh, and kept consoling his companion by telling him the shot would hit him first. Narrayan Eao, however, maintained perfect silence, and told me after- wards he expected to have been hung upon the first tree, and supposed this to be my reason for ordering him to mount. Now I had my prisoner, where was I to put him ? My camp was forty miles distant, and I resolved at last to take him to Chinohola, where there was a fortified court-house, which could be easily defended in case of a rescue being attempted ; and when we reached it the Eajah was safely located there, having been first put in irons. The surviving relations of the murdered Brahmins came that evening, and were confronted with the Eajah, who did not attempt to deny the murders. The family were his own near relations, but they had a good deal of silver plate, which had excited his cupidity. All that night we were kept in constant alarm. Shots were fired at our gates and bastions, and dismal and unearthly shriekings and bowlings were kept up by our enemies. I was glad when morning came, and brought my servants with clean clothes and a guard 58 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. in. of five soldiers. It was a busy day ; people crowded in with complaints and accusations against the prisoner for exactions and daooity. Strange to say, he admitted them all, and directed us where to find the plunder. I sent for it, and it was brought : massive silver, copper, and brass vessels, and a quantity of valuable cloths and silk. The villagers sent me eight men who had assist- ed at the dacoity, and their confessions enabled me to apprehend ten more. I determined to take the wretch himself to Hydera- bad. This he heard of, and sent me a private note, which ran thus : — • "You are all powerful and merciful. Send the en- closed to Hominabad, and you can get cash or bills for 24,000 rupees. When you get this, allow me to depart." " So that is your game, my friend," I thought ^ " perhaps you may be corrupting my people." So I ordered my bed to be taken down and placed across his door, and talked to him most of the night. " I was a fool," he said, " not to shut the gate when you were inside. My people would have killed you." "It wouldn't have helped you much," I replied; " your village would soon have been knocked about your ears, and' you would have been hanged. Now you are safe. Chundoo Lall will not hang a Brahmin." "Not unless your gentlemen make him," he said, " as you do your own people when murder is done. I hated them. I only killed my uncle. He was the worst." " And your grandmother ? " " Ah ! " he said, and was silent. He then asked if I had sent for the 24,000 rupees in money or bills ? 1825-29.] TEMPTATION. 53 "No," I said, " English gentlemen do not take bribeB. Tlie Minister will get the money at Hyderabad." "God forbid!" he exclaimed; "take 50,000, take a lakh. Ah, sir ! for your mother's sake let me go. I cannot go to Hyderabad alive ! " It struck me he might have poison concealed about him, so I had him stripped and searched. I told him frankly he must go to Hyderabad, for that I had no power to deal with him. But it did not seem an easy matter to get him there. My scouts brought in word that the Eajah's people were out iu great numbers on the road, and intended to dispute my passage. My escort was very weak ; I had nineteen prisoners. But a happy solution occm-red to my difficulties. My men on the look-out reported that some English troops had arrived, and going up myself, I saw the flags of an English regiment being set out for an encampment. I dressed quickly and went to the ofScer in command, who at once ordered a native officer and twenty men to accompany the prisoners. I started early next morning, and made a long march, clearing the jungly tract in which the rescue had been planned, and which would very possibly have succeeded had my escort remained as it was. I reached Hyderabad on the third day, and was immediately summoned to the Eesi- denoy, red trousers and all ; told Mr Martin my story, which amused him very much, and showed him the order for the 24,000 rupees. He desired me to go on at once to the Minister, and we did, hot and travel- stained as we were. Chundoo Lall was very cordial and gracious, and his keen grey eyes twinkled when I handed him the order for the 24,000 rupees, and he laughed heartily at my account of the whole scene. 60 STOEY OF MT LIFE. [cHAP. m. "Wky did you not get the lakh, Taylor?" he said; "now it will be hidden." Narrayan Eao sat trembling in the corner, making frantic appeals for justice, and I took my leave as I heard the order given for "close imprisonment." " The Minister might have given you a present out of the money you brought," said Mr Martin ; and indeed I thought so too, especially as three of my best horses died soon after. I received a very handsome official acknowledgment from Mr Martin for the service I had rendered, prais- ing my " zeal and promptitude in an arduous and trying business," and much more that was very flattering and pleasant. I left Hyderabad within a week ; but, alas ! my horses had been in an infected stable, and I lost all except my white pony. It was in vain that I asked for some help to replace them, although they had done valuable service, and were a loss of 3000 rupees. I mentioned my loss when writing to Mr Newnham, and he sent me most kindly and generously a magnifi- cent bay— a timely gift, and one I highly prized. When I returned to my district, in company with my chief, Mr Colvin, we determined to look into the revenue settlement of the country. We stayed a few delicious days at Boeder, roaming through the grand old city, revelling in its beauty, and recalling its past histories. We could have stayed there dreaming on, but work was before us, and we pushed on to Hominabad. I am not going to inflict details of revenue settlement on my readers. We found the Bengal system, -with which Mr Colvin was familiar, would not suit the country at all, and that the best plan was to continue the former settlements, with here and there some slight alterations ; 1825-29.] STARTLING EEVELATIO.KS. 61 and as I could do this alone, he left me. I worked at this and my registration of village police in every county and along the road, getting on as well as I could, and my old hope of having a district to myself was renewed, as Mr Colvin was dissatisfied and would not stay, and thought it likely that I might be appointed in his place. Some very curious and difficult cases of disputed in- heritance came before me. One I very well remember, in which two families claimed the same land under a grant from King Yoosuf Adil Shah, who began to reign A.D. 1480. The papers were exactly similar. No forgery could be detected either in the registries or seals ; both seemed genuine, and we were fairly puzzled, till, after dinner, holding up the paper to the light, I saw an un- mistakable water-mark — a figure of an angel, with "Goa" underneath. Now Goa had only been taken by the Portuguese in a.d. 1510 ; therefore, there could have been no Goa paper in existence in 1488, and Indian paper has never any water-mark. The falsification, therefore, of the deed written on Portuguese paper was conclusive. Mr Colvin was obliged to go back to Hyderabad, as his health was suffering, and I had an immense increase of work ; but I determined to make myself acquainted with every detail, in order to fit myself to succeed him if he should leave. Eetuming after an absence of a month through my district, I was met by some very startling revelations. The police, and chiefly my faithful Bulram Sing, had reported some very unusual occurrences. Dead bodies, evidently strangled, and in no instance recognised, were found by the roadside, and no clue could be discovered 62 STOET OF MY LIFE. [chap. ni. as to the perpetrators of their death. In two places, jackals or hyenas had rooted up newly-made graves, in one of which were found four bodies and in another two, much eaten and disfigured. The whole country was in alarm, and the villagers had constantly patrolled their roads, but as yet in vain. All we could learn was, that some time before, two bodies of men had passed through the district, purport- ing to be merchants from the north going southwards, but that they appeared quiet and respectable, above suspicion. During these inquiries it transpired that numbers of persons of that part of my district were absent every year from their homes at stated periods. These were for the most part Mussulmans, who carried on a trade with Belgaum, Darwar, and Mysore, bringing back wearing apparel, copper and brass vessels, and the like. Who could these be ? Day after day I tried to sift the mystery, but could not. I registered their names, and enjoined Bulram Sing to have the parties watched on their return home. But as the monsoon opened that year with much violence, I was obliged, most reluctantly, to go back to my bungalow at Suda- sheopett. I was very anxious about this time also on another point. Lord William Bentinck, then Governor-General, had adopted as one of his political measures the alteration of the treaties between several native States with the Honourable East India Company, which provided for the support of Contingent forces established during Lord Hastings' government. When it was known that the Nagpore force had been abolished, and all the ofiS- oers of the Company's army remanded to their regiments. 1825-29.] ANXIETIES. 63 and the local officers discharged with gratuities of a few . months' pay each, it was impossible not to feel the direst anxiety as to the fate of the Nizam's Contingent, which occupied a perfectly similar position. It was expected that we should receive four months' pay each, and then I should be thrown again upon the world. Had the old Nizam lived, or had he been in a condi- tion to transact business, he might have yielded to the offers made him ; for the force was a very expensive one, costing forty lakhs or more, and it was expected the Nizam would gladly pay twenty or thirty as an escape from further liability. But his end was now approach- ing, and for a time we had a respite. Mr Newnham wrote to me bidding me " come to him again and he would do his best to further my interests ; '' and in the event of our force being abolished I should have done so. Mr Palmer advised my remaining at Hyderabad and becoming a merchant, and promised me a rapid fortune. So waiting and speculating I kept on, often very weary and anxious. The old Nizam, Sikunder Jah, died at the end of June 1829, and was succeeded by his eldest son, not of the highest degree of marriage ; but he was favoured by the Minister, Chundoo Lall, and was confirmed as his father's successor at Calcutta. The first use he made of his power was, at the " dur- bar " which the Besident attended to congratulate him on his accession, to demand roughly, " That the Ferin- ghees, who were interfering in his country, should be recalled." Of course no immediate reply could be given, as the establishment of the civil control had been at the request of his father, who was sufficiently wise to see 64 STOEY OP MY LIFE. [chap. m. that the best chance of prosperity for his country was its being placed under English gentlemen. It was the general opinion that the withdrawal of the civil officers would be the prelude to the total abolition of the Contingent. Reference was made to Calcutta, and it was decided to accede to the wishes of the Nizam. After living some months in a state of feverish anxiety as to my fate, I received orders in October to rejoin my regiment at Hyderabad, as the civil control was to be discontinued. I earnestly entreated to be allowed to remain even a short time to prosecute my inquiries respecting the mysterious murders which had been per- petrated in my district. At first the Eesident listened to me incredulously as I unfolded my tale ; but he soon saw I was in earnest, and he wrote to the Minister to request permission for me to stay ; but Chundoo Lall replied that the Nizam had become so impatient and imperious that he dare not sanction my continuance ; and with a very heavy heart I rejoined my regiment, the 6th, stationed at Bolarum. Had I been allowed to remain, I should have been the first to disclose the horrible crime of Thuggee to the world ; but it fell to the good fortune of Major Sleeman to do so afterwards. My inquiries were very active, and I found that parties of apparently most respectable Mussulmans occasionally passed through the district, having charms, amulets, and medicines to sell. " Our trade," said one to me, " is to take with us from Allund old and new sarees and waist- bands and trade with them, getting in exchange brass and copper pots, and gold or silver ornaments ; these we exchange again when the rains begin. We don't take our wives ; they and the children remain at home 1825-29.] SUSPICIOUS PEESONS. 65 as hostages for the rent we owe." What could seem more plausible; and who could conceive the horrible crimes that were concealed under so fair a semblance ? The subject haunted me ; why should so many men follow the same calling? Where did they go? Were they speaking truth? My people were at fault, and Bulram Sing shared my suspicions. He and Bhudrinath volunteered to follow and watch these men, and they were both absent disguised as fakeers when I was recalled to my regiment, and thus the mystery remained unsolved ! All chance of civil employ was now over, but still the service was safe, as the Nizam had promptly refused to do away with the Contingent, and substitute a pay- ment of twenty lakhs, as had been suggested. He took pride in the force, and the English Government now declared that it should not be disturbed, but that its cost should be lessened by sundry reforms. The pay was made to assimilate with that of the Company's army, without any consideration of the pensions, passage- money, and other advantages of the Company's service : we " locals " were to have our bare pay only — in my case as a lieutenant it was 290 rupees a-month instead of 400. New regulations were drawn up providing promotion to the rank of captain after twelve years' service : but no pension was allowed ; and the whole was summed up by a sentence which carried despair to many a heart — " The Nizam's Government can grant no furlough to Europe." No more sight of home ! no future meeting with my mother I never again to visit England, unless I left the E 66 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. m. service and returned to be a burden to my people. I can never forget tlie numbness which crept over me as I thought of it, now that all pleasant anticipations were gone, and my congenial employment exchanged^for the dull routine of regimental duty. My old company re- ceived me with affectionate greeting, and I made up my mind, for the present at least, to remain. I was now twenty-one. 67 CHAPTEE IV. 1829-37. I HAVE, perhaps, no right to intrude upon my readers the doubts and fears, crude hopes and impossible aspira- tions that filled my mind, as was only natural in one so young. I had met with some disappointments, bitter ones, abeady ; but I had courage and good health re- maining, and I always look upon this period as a turn- ing-point in my life. I was exposed to much tempta- tion. In those days in India men drank hard and deep, and high play was the rule, not the exception. How- ever, I cared for none of these things, and kept much aloof ; I was esteemed exclusive and unsociable, but I did not mind. I had my own recreations after my own taste ; among these my boat on the large Hoosein San- ger Tank was my chief one, and scarcely an evening passed that I did not drive over from Bolarum to have a saiL I had rigged her myself with three sprit-sails, after the fashion of the Liverpool ferry-boats, and I fully enjoyed sailing her in company with the other tiny yachts which were always out. I studied Persian and Mahratta, and if I had been drawing all day long I could not have complied with the requests that were made to me to fill the albums of my fair friends. 68 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. it. Mr Martin was removed from the Eesidency at Hyder- abad and transferred to an appointment at Delhi. He had never been popular, and his manner was cold and formal except to those he really liked. To me he had been invariably kind, and the tears stood in his eyes when I took leave of him. " I would have done more for you if I could," he said ; " I feel as if you were among the few really true to me." He soon afterwards took furlough to England, and did not resume his public life. In November 1830, Colonel Stewart, formerly Eesident at Gwalior, was promoted to Hyderabad. From him and his charming family I experienced kindness and hospitality unbounded. He was generous and open- hearted, and belonged to the school of " non-interfer- ence " politicians. The Mzam expressed himself anx- ious to effect reform in many departments, but ended by doing very little. Mr Palmer's house continued my chief resort. There was a fascination about him quite irresistible to me, his knowledge was so varied — classical, historical, and pol- itical. His father, who had been secretary to Warren Hastings, had taken part in all the most eventful scenes of early Anglo-Indian history, and had married, as was very usual then among English gentlemen, a lady of high rank, one of the Princesses of the royal house of Delhi ; and his fund of knowledge and great store of anecdote made him a delightful and improving com- panion. In 1830 (I forget the exact date) my prospects bright- ened. The adjutant of my regiment, having completed twelve years' service, was promoted to the rank of cap- tain. I was the next in seniority, and my claims were 1830.] ACCIDENT. 69 recognised by the Eesident, Colonel Stewart. I passed my examination in Hindostanee with " credit," and my name appearing in orders, I assumed my new duties. My pay was increased considerably ; and I was much amused, when I asked a young lady to dance at a ball one night, to overhear her ask her mother's permission, "as I was now an adjutant." "Are you quite sure, dear?" said mamma; "if you are, you may do so. He is quite eligible now." I could not repress a smile as I led the young lady out to our dance. Are mammas stUl so watchful ? During the.- rainy season of 1830, I met with a very severe accident in riding after a panther, which led us a long chase. He got away through some high grass at last, and mounting my horse, with my gun in my hand, I made after him. My horse put his fore legs into a deep hole, as we were going at speed, and I was shot out of my saddle, and thrown on my shoulder with great violence. I got up directly, ran on to the garden where the panther had taken refuge, and pushing through the hedge I saw a fine young sepoy keeping him down with his bayonet, and another poor fellow sitting at a little distance holding his arm, which was nearly severed above the elbow. I tied his arm up with my handker- chief, and soon after the doctor arrived. He asked me if I were likewise hurt, remarking I looked very pale, and I owned to much pain in 'my right shoulder. On examination it turned out that I had not only broken my collar-bone, but also the scapula and the socket of my right arm. I did not recover the use of it for many months. At the close of the year, H.H. the Nizam expressed a desire to review the whole of the troops at Secunderabad and Bolarum. I had then charge of my regiment ; and 70 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. iv. the unusual size of our men, and their steadiness, excited the envy of oificers of the Madras corps. As the Prince passed slowly on his elephant we dropped our colours, which no other regiment had done ; and he then learned, perhaps for the first time, that such troops belonged to him. After parade we were all to breakfast with his Highness. I was late, and could not easily find a seat, which the Resident observing, ofiered me one close to himself. The Nizam, a fine-looking man over six feet in height, with a fair sMn, ruddy complexion, and blue Tartar eyes, at onpe recognised me and inquired my name. " He has already done me a delicate but import- ant service,'' he said, to Colonel Stewart, "and I am glad to have this opportunity of thanking him. He will tell you what it was." So I related how, one evening, my camp being pitched at the town of KuUianee, 1 was told that a lady of rank, attended by her secretary and a few followers, was with- out, in a palankeen, asking to see me. I went out at once, and my fair visitor told me that she was the young- est sister of the Nizam, married to the Lord of Kullianee, who had iU-used and even struck her ; that she had left his fort, daring his people to molest her ; and had come to my camp, where she was sure the English flag would protect her. Now she wanted an escort of police-horse to conduct her to Hyderabad. This I gave her, and provided escorts from stage to stage until she reached Hyderabad. " Did yon report this ? " asked the Resident. " No," I replied ; " the Begum especially desired the matter should be kept private. I have recorded it in my Mahratta diary, but it is not a circumstance I could report ofiScially." 1830-31.] A QUARREL. 71 " You are right," he said ; " and you see your service has not been forgotten." The Nizam was quite at his ease, conversing with Colonel Stewart, and occasionally asking me various questions about the country and what I had done. Shortly after this, the Nizam's brother, Moobariz-oo- Dowlah, collected a number of Arabs and Afghans, strengthened his house in the city, and proceeded to press claims against his brother which could not be for one moment entertained. The case becoming serious, and disturbances being imminent. Colonel Stewart was called upon to repress the disorder by sending in a force from Bolarum. I was still in charge of my regi- ment, and, preceded by two guns, we marched into the city. Had there been any fighting we should have fared badly in those narrow streets, lined with terraced houses, all covered with armed men ; but happily not a shot was fired, though the guns at the palace gates were unlim- bered. The officer commanding the brigade had pre- ceded us and induced the rebel to proceed according to orders to Golcondah, and to trust to his brother's gener- osity to settle all disputed claims ; and so, for a time, there was a hollow peace patched up. Moobariz-oo-Dowlah, however, could not rest content, and the Minister had overlooked the fact that in his per- sonal retainers he possessed the means of doing much mischief. The treasury at the Fort of Golcondah is one of the most ancient in the State, and at this time con- tained 100 laths, or a million sterling ; and the Nizam, wishing to remove some of the money, sent his treasurer, with a small guard, for the purpose, Moobariz-oo-Dow- lah refused admittance, and the others, being too weak to fight, placed a guard at the entrance. There was 73 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chat. w. great consternation at Hyderabad. Five thousand Arabs, Eohillas, Sikhs, and other foreign levies, includ- ing some of the old French " Ligne," were marched out to Golcondah, and took up a position in the outer enceinte; but they made no impression on the Prince, and indeed were supposed to be weU affected towards him. After days of useless negotiation, the Minister, on the part of the Nizam, requested the assistance of the Bolarum Contingent ; so we all marched out on the 6th January 1831, and encamped opposite the north or Delhi gate, on the plain on which stand the noble mausoleums of the Kootub Shahy Kings. It was an absurd state of affairs. The interior was held by the rebel Prince, the outer enceinte by the Nizam's levies, who also treated us as enemies, not only refusing to allow us to enter, but threatening to fire on us, and training the fort guns on the wall so as to command our camp. I rode to the edge of the counterscarp one morning, but was warned off. However, I managed to have a look at the ditch, and saw that it was wide and deep ; and by dint of ex- changing good-humoured " chaff" with the men, escaped unharmed. We remained inactive until the 15th February, when we were suddenly ordered into the fort, and the Nizam's troops at the same time ordered to leave it. We took up a position not far from the Prince's palace, between it and the treasury, and pickets were immediately posted. I held the advanced pickets with two guns and four com- panies. I had my guns loaded with a double charge of grape each, and as the Prince's men were watching us very closely, they must have seen that we were in earnest. The Nizam's people began removing the treasure, but 1831.] A QUAEEEL. 73 it was slow work, and for four days and nights I had not even time to change my clothes ; the weather, too, was very hot. I believe mine was the post of honour, as it would have been of danger had any fighting occurred. But it was annoying to be kept there perpetually on the stretch, with constant alarms that the Arabs were com- ing to attack us, and with the sound of their peculiar drum and their war-songs constantly in our ears. I was not sorry when, on the fifth morning, one of the staff rode up and told me I might withdraw my men, for the Prince had agreed to send away his levies and keep only his immediate retainers. A scene followed which affected me very deeply. 1 had drawn up my four companies, and released the guns from their position, when the men burst into loud shouts of— -" Bolo, Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " (" Victory to the son of Mahadeo ! ") I hardly understood it at first ; but my friend S., who came to look after his guns, clapped me on the back and said, "I do congratulate you, Taylor, with all my heart ; no truer proof could have been given you of the men's affection ; you will never lose your title — it will follow you all your life.'' " Bolo, Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " he shouted to the men, and heartily did they respond ; while, as I proceeded to dismiss them from parade, the cry was taken up by hundreds of both the regiments present. Even our chief came out to say a few kind words. Captain S. was right, my sobriquet never left me, not even in the Mutiny, and it may still linger among the descendants of those who conferred it. The force was to return to cantonments, but the 74 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ghap. iv. request of the Nizam was complied with that six com- panies should remain in charge of the fort, and I was appointed to take command. I was to see that no levies joined the Prince, and I was to be the medium of communication between the Prince and the Resident. " You can read Persian," the Eesident said to me, as he gave me my orders, " and you are to open and read all letters the Prince sends you whether to the Nizam, the Minister, or me : what he has hitherto written are so insolent in tone, that if the others are like them, you need not forward them. If you can make up this quarrel between the brothers, do so, and I shall be obliged to you ; but on no account make it worse." So I remained at my post, and for a few days no notice was taken. I sent for my boat, and used to sail about on the fine tank which washed the walls of the fort, and see the Prince spying at me through a tele- scope. At length his Moonshee came out, and I offered him a sail one evening. In return, dishes arrived for breakfast and dinner, delightfully cooked, and I reported this friendly intercourse to the Eesident. At last letters were sent — one to the Eesident, another to the Nizam, very violent in tone, which I returned ; others followed daily for more than a fortnight, gradually improving in tone, but not right yet. " You've hooked your fish, Taylor," said the Eesident, laughing, " but he is too strong to land yet ; I'U not help you or interfere at all ; " and I was very glad he did not. By-and-by my friend grew sulky, but this did not last long ; and one evening .the Moonshee arrived with some extra good dishes for me, and food for the whole detachment. " Would I be pleased to draft a letter that would satisfy all parties — his honour was in my hands," 1831.] EECOKCIUATION. 75 this was the message delivered by the Moonshee. I did draft a letter, and the Prince flew into a violent rage over it, and abused me for having so small an idea of his dignity. We wrangled over it for a week, and he ended by placing his case unreservedly in my hands, and writing what I dictated. I made the draft in English so as to be sure of my meaning, and it was afterwards translated by me into Oordoo with my own hand, to assure the Prince that it was really mine. The letters were brought to me the next afternoon ; and as the Moonshee and I sailed about, the Prince waved a white flag by way of salute, which we answered from the ' Zora * with twelve shots from her little pieces. I took the letters next morning to the Residency. That to the Nizam was forwarded at once, and was pronounced very satisfactory. He would send his mother directly to Golcondah with his assurances, and would make proper arrangements for his brother's return. When I returned to Golcondah, I found the old Begum Sahiba had already arrived, and two female servants were sent to my tent to report that she and her son had fallen on each other's necks and wept much ; and in a day or two Moobariz-oo-Dowlah was escorted to the city with all possible respect. I received the thanks of the Nizam for having " for the second time rendered a service to his family." Moobariz-oo-Dowlah sent his secretary to me after- wards, when my intended marriage was announced, with a " Fard " or memorandum in Persian, which was presented on a silver salver covered with a napkin of cloth-of-gold. He hoped I would accept for my future wife the articles mentioned in the list, as a mark of the gratitude he felt for the services I had rendered him. 76 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. IV. The presents he wished to give were very valuable, including shawls, necklaces, ornaments for the head, bracelets of diamonds and other gems, a zone of gold set with precious stones, and a necklace of seven rows of pearls with diamond pendant, the aggregate value about 20,000 rupees ; but alas ! I could only thank him for his kindness, and tell him I was not permitted to accept his gifts. He afterwards got into trouble by his connection with the Wahabee conspiracy of 1839, and eventually died a State prisoner at Golcondah, During my stay I was only once permitted to ascend the hill whereon the fort stands, and I wrote my name in the mosque, now disused ; but I never could even enter the gates afterwards, nor, since the temporary occupation of the place in 1831, has any Englishman ever been allowed to enter its precincts. On the 25th August the following year, I was mar- ried to Mary Palmer, daughter of Wm. Palmer, Esq., Hyderabad, by the Rev. W. J. Aislabie, chaplain of the station, at Secunderabad Church ; and in December of that year my regiment was ordered to Hingolee, where we took up our abode. Hingolee was a dreary place enough — scarcely a tree near it, no gardens, and altogether desolate. There was no amusement to be had at the station, and we passed our evenings in reading French and Italian, and my wife tried to teach me to play the harp ; but suddenly one day the sounding-board and back split up under the heat, and my progress was rudely interrupted. On the 4th of June 1833 we were ordered to march to a place called Goleegaum, the chief of which, Jalloo- jee Naik, had rebelled against the Government, garri- soned his fort, and was plundering the country. The 1833.] . A NOTED REBEL. 77 town was reported to be forty miles distant, and we started under a blazing sun. "We were obliged to halt several times, but by dint of resting during the heat of the day and going on at night, we at last sighted the place, lying in a hollow beneath us, and keeping up a sharp fire from its walls. We had, in reality, come upwards of a hundred miles, and the thermometer had been 114° under the shade of a thick banian-tree at our last halting-place. How our men, laden with forty rounds of ammunition and two days' provisions each, did it, I don't know. I helped them as much as I could by dispensing with pantaloons, which were tied up in bundles and placed on the spare carriage- bullocks. Many a Hindoo song was sung in chorus as we marched, relieved by the old cry, " Bolo, Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " and on calling the roll, when we reached the camping-ground, I found that, with the exception of five men who had been left to burn a man that had died of cholera on the road, every one was present, and apparently fresh. Jalloojee Naik, the rebel, was still in the fort, and maintained a continuous fire, some of the balls cutting the branches of the tree we were under ; and it was arranged that we should attack the fort the following day. It was a very strong place — a square mass, with a large bastion at each corner, loopholed for musketry and wall-pieces. The height of the wall was fifty-two feet from the parapet to the ground ; the whole was in excellent repair. We held a council of war, and arranged matters as follows : — First, the fort was to be shelled by the howitzer. I was to occupy the crest of a rising ground opposite the 78 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. iv. village, and advance through the village in case the shells did not take effect, and attack the outworks. Captain T was to set fire to the village, so that the sparks and burning thatch might be carried over the fort by the wind, which was very strong. I reconnoitred my post that evening, and had a nar- row escape, a ball passing through my cap ; but I saw enough to show me the place was " ugly," and might prove tough work for us. I think we all felt it so, though little was said as we parted for the night. We were to take up our position at earliest dawn. The stars were very bright, and the ceaseless firing kept up from the parapets of the fort had, I remember, a very beautiful effect. The place seemed full of men. Suddenly a sentry challenged, and we all sprang to our feet. I called out not to fire, and ran forward with some of my men. A moment later a short figure ad- vanced and threw himself at my feet, and I found it was Jalloogee Naik himself, with five or six attendants, who all gave up their arms. I sent him in at once to Captain T 's tent, and received orders from him to take two companies and occupy the fort at daylight. I felt very thankful for this termination to the affair, especially when I saw the place we were to have at- tacked. As soon as it was light we marched to the entrance-gate, and desired the garrison to come out singly, first depositing their arms inside. There were eighty-five men only, as the remainder of the three hun- dred were absent at the Mohurrum festival, not expect- ing our visit. What a place it was ! The courts and their entrance-gates grew narrower and narrower, till the last one would not admit two men abreast. There were store-houses filled with grain, rice, and ghee, stables 1833.] A NOTED REBEL. 79 and cattle-slieds, stores of forage and provisions It seemed deserted now, except for a few women ; and my men began to remove as much as possible of the grain and other property, which was sold at the drum-head, and the proceeds divided among them. I secured the rebel's household gods for my share, and a matchlock inlaid with gold. Some camp-foUowers had set fire to a house in the village, and the wind blowing strong towards the fort, brought with it pieces of burning thatch and volumes of smoke. The stacks of forage took fire, and the wood- work of the buildings followed. I was about to depart when I fancied I heard the wail of an infant, and search- ing hurriedly about, I found a young woman lying in- sensible upon a bed, with a very young baby beside her. I took both in my arms, and staggered out through the fire and smoke, and meeting two of my men, who were anxious about me, they relieved me of my burden, and we left the place to the flames. The rebel Kajah was told of the rescue of his wife and child, but he only re- plied, " They had better have died," and relapsed into sullen silence. His atrocities had been fearful. Persons had been suspended by the heels over the battlements of the fort ; others had had their ears stuffed with gun- powder, which was ignited ; but I may spare the reader these. He was made over to the Civil Superintendent of the district, and I do not know what his fate was eventually. His surrender alone prevented his being hanged on a bastion of the fort. We returned to Hingolee on the 21st June by twelve easy stages, instead of the three we had marched the distance in before. Some rain had fallen, and it was cooler. 80 STORY OF MY LIFE. [cHAl. iv. Now I became very busy. Those famous discoveries in regard to the practice of Thuggee had recently been made at Jubbulpore and Saugor by (then) Captain Slee- man, which made a sensation in India never to be for- gotten. By the confessions of one gang who were ap- prehended, many Thugs in Central India were brought to justice ; and at last the Thugs of the Deccan were denounced by these approvers, and as many lived near Hingolee, they were at once arrested. I volunteered my services in the labour of collecting evidence, and they were accepted. Day after day I recorded tales of murder, which, though horribly monotonous, possessed an intense interest ; and as fast as new approvers came in, new mysteries were unravelled and new crimes con- fessed. Names of Thugs all over the Deccan were re- gistered, and I found one list containing the names of nearly all those whom I had suspected in my old dis- trict. The reader will remember my intense anxiety on this subject in 1829, and my conviction that deadly crime existed and was only awaiting discovery ; now it was all cleared, but I felt sore that it had not fallen to my lot to win the fame of the affair. Some men of the artillery and some camp-followers deserted at this time. They were also Thugs ; and it was a horrible thought that these miscreants had been in our midst, and it made many in the station, and espe- cially the ladies, very nervous. We had searched for bodies of murdered people wherever we were told to look by the approvers, and invariably found them, sometimes singly, sometimes whole parties, and the details were so sickening we resolved to open no more graves. I wrote and sent home to my father an article on Thuggee, which was shown to Sir Edward Bulwer, 1832.] THUGS. 81 who sent me word that had he possessed any local know- ledge of India or its people, he would write a romance on the subject ; why did I not do so ? I pondered over this advice, and hence my novel, ' Confessions of a Thwg.' The year did not end pleasantly. A horrible plot, said to be of Wahabee contrivance, to murder all Euro- peans at Bangalore, and sell their women as slaves, was discovered. There were disturbances in Oudh and other northern provinces, and famine was rapidly spreading from Kathiawar and Goozerat over the Deccan. We did what we could at Hingolee, first individually, then by general subscription. A Brahmin cook was engaged, whose bread and boiled pulse all wonld eat, and a good meal was given to each person once a-day. Tlie system worked well, and our relief-books showed that three thousand persons received food daily and were all in good health. But in the rural districts thousands of people and cattle must have perished ; the gaunt atten- uated forms of some who arrived to ask for aid were pitiful to behold, and the roads were strewn with the bodies of those who died on their way from weakness and starvation. ■ During the next three years I had mixch domestic trouble. The birth and subsequent death of two dear children, the severe and continued illness of my wife, and my own very narrow escape with my life from ter- rible jungle fever, contracted at Goodaloor, at the foot of the Neilgherry Hills, whither we had been ordered by the doctors for change of air for my wife,— all these events saddened our lives and caused us much distress. Of the beauty of the scenery on the Hills I need not speak here. It has often been described and enlarged 82 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. iv. upon since, but at that time it was less familiar to those at home ; and I find my letters teeming with descrip- tions of our journey — of wooded hills and towering mountains, of trees and waterfalls, of precipitous crags and deep wooded glens, of ferns and blackberries and violets to remind us of dear old England, of sunsets and sunrises, rolling mists and cool fresh breezes — and, above all, of gratitude for my wife's returning health. My enemy, the fever, however, came back when I was at Ootacamund with renewed violence, and the medical men looked grave, and spoke of a voyage to England as my only hope of life. How could this be accomplished ? Furlough was prohibited, and the only chance was a voyage to the Cape — dreary enough, but still it must be tried ; and meantime we stayed on, mostly at Coo- noor, where I amused myself trying to sketch some of the most striking views, and was always enchanted with its beauty, so varied and so picturesque on every side. It was at this time, when I was in sore trouble at the loss of my second child, that I had the good for- tune to be introduced to the then Governor- General, Lord William Bentinck. He was staying at the Hills, and had often noticed my boy, not knowing whose child he was. When he died, he wrote me a kind letter of sympathy, asking me to come and see him. I did so as soon as I was able, and so faint and weak was I that I could not stand when I entered his room. He took me in liis arms, laid me down on a sofa, and sent for some wine. I told him, when I was stronger, that I had two letters for him which I had been unable to deliver before — one from Mr Newnham, and the other from my uncle, Captain Eobert Mitford. " You don't mean it," he said, as his face beamed with 1834-35.] KINDNESS. 83 , pleasure ; " he is one of my dearest friends ; why did you not come to me at once ? " " I have only just received this letter," I replied, and I did not like to intrude before having received an introduction." " Now what can I do for you ? " he asked. I mentioned that the Paymastership at Hingolee would soon be vacant — could he appoint me ? and he promised to assist me if he could. " Only," I added, " I fear I shall be obliged to go to the Cape on leave, this fever has so shattered my health." " Why not to England ?" he asked. Then I poured forth the tale of the furlough griev- ance, and he could scarcely credit that such an order had been passed. He sent his secretary for a copy of the orders, and saw it was all true. " I shall put in a minute at the next Council," he said ; " we can get over this, and I shall record that my friend Mr Taylor is to be allowed leave to England when necessary. That will be enough for you.'' " But, my lord," I said, " though I am more grateful than I can express for your kind consideration towards me, my case alone will not help my brother officers. May I plead for them as well?" " Certainly," said Lord William, " you are quite right ; and though my minute as regards yourself will stand in case of urgent necessity, yet all of you shall be released soon from this restriction. Write to-day to the senior officer of your ' locals,' bid him send in a memorial with- out delay, and I will have it passed." The friend I wrote to despatched the memorial as soon as he could obtain the signatures, and the question passed through Council without difficulty. 84 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. rv. After this interview I dined frequently with the Gov- ernor-General, meeting there many charming and inter- esting characters, amongst others the then Mr Macaulay, whose conversation I found intensely fascinating ; liis seemingly boundless knowledge of life, his acquaintance with history and philosophy, his fiery zeal in argument, and his calm eloquence in oratory, opened to me new subjects of thought for future study. Oh, if I had been among such men always, I thought, I should have been very different ! I grew stronger in health, and my regiment being ordered to Ellichpoor at the end of December, we left the Hills about October 10. We did not return by the way we had come, for we had only too much cause to dread it, but went by Coonoor and Coimbatoor, where there was a most extraordinary collection of large figures of horses in terra cotta. I have never heard of these in any other part of India, and could obtain no tradition of their construction or their origin. They were reverenced by the people as offerings to a divinity they locally worship, but possess no particular value. At Bangalore I was pressed to stay and act as inter- preter to a court-martial about to sit, as, strange to say, no competent linguist was available ; but I could not do it without much loss of time, so we pushed on, and finally reached EUichpoor on the 3d February. We found two infantry regiments, one cavalry, and some artiUery, at the station, so that there was no lack of society. I practised my drawing, and began to paint in oils, victimising many friends to sit for their portraits, and finding endless occupation and delight. Thus with mili- tary duties, and shooting, and excursions to various places of interest within reach, our time passed pleasantly. 1834-35.] MACAULAY. 85 It is not fitting for me here to undertake political dis- cussions, or to comment on the career of the illustrious man who at this time quitted India ; but I feel I must add my tribute to his integrity of purpose, liberality of action, and the commencement of that system of progress which is now bearing ample fruit. No more eloquent tribute to a statesman was ever written than that by Mr Macaulay, engraved on the pedestal of Lord William Bentinok's statue at Calcutta. It contains no flattery, but a simple record of the real motives of the man '' whose constant study it was to elevate the moral and intellectual character of the Government intrusted to his care." To me individually, and to our service, he had rendered inestimable benefit. I was told a testimonial was to be presented to me for what I had done, but I checked the scheme as soon as I heard of it. There was only one man to whom gratitude could be expressed, and that was the Governor-General. He was succeeded by Sir Charles Metcalf. In December I was promoted to the rank of captain, having completed twelve years' service ; but I was allowed for a time to fulfil the duties of adjutant. The following year I began my tale ' Confessions of a Thug.' I had never attempted any work of the kind before, and I found it intensely fascinating — the work seemed to grow so rapidly in my thoughts and under my hands, and I enjoyed the sensation ardently. I remember giving the first few chapters to one of my brother officera to read, and his constant demands for " more," and his perpetual scoldings for my " laziness " in writing so slowly, were accepted by me as a high compliment. Mr Palmer, too, encouraged me to proceed. He criti- 86 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. iv. cised and commended, and his marginal notes were of great use to me, and often very amusing. In 1837 we made a charming excursion to Boorham- poor. My old friend Major Sutherland had been ap- pointed Eesident at Gwalior, and invited a party to meet him and shoot tigers. It was a very beautiful journey, and I could fill pages with descriptions of all the places of interest through which we passed. I took several sketches at Boorhampoor, every street and turning abounding in subjects for the pencil, so that the diffi- culty was in knowing where to begin. We had capital sport and a series of tiger-hunts while enjoying the splendid hospitality of the Eesident. One incident occurred which amused us all. I had given up my seat on Major Sutherland's elephant, and my guns also, to another gentleman, as I was disinclined to go out that day, when one of the sirdars came up and asked me why I was not going. " Oh," said he, " take my elephant and see the fun, even if you do not shoot. He is very small, but very easy, and will not jolt you." I accepted his offer, and mounted the little beast, on which I sat comfortably astride on a well-stuffed pad. As I passed my tent I called for my sun-hat, and my old tent-pitcher ran out, crying — " You are not surely going without a gun, sahib ? Take mine ; I have just cleaned it, and I will load it for you with ball to shoot the tiger." This ancient weapon was a French musket of the last century, only known to explode on rare occasions. I had myself seen its owner sitting behind a bush snap- ping it at a hare which was calmly sitting at a short distance quite unmoved, but he was unable to get it to 1836-37.] TIGER-HUNTS. 87 go off, and when it did, the hare had taken its departure after all. This venerable piece, which had taken part in the wars of Bussy, was brought to me. " It will kick a bit," said the old man, as he placed it in my hands ; " but you won't mind that when you kill the tiger." He then made a salaam to it, patted it, and said to it : " Do well, my son ; you will be with the master ; " and we started, I flourishing my weapon, and being not a little " chaffed " on my accoutrements. " Never mind," said I, " I'll kill the tiger ; " but at the same time I had not the smallest intention of dis- charging the gun at all. The place was reached — the tiger found. Every one fired — no one hit him. I retired to a piece of waste ground some distance off to be out of the way, when, with a great roar, the tiger dashed forward, ready to spring, within a few yards of my little elephant, which stood like a rock. I fired instinctively, I think, though the recoil nearly knocked me backwards, but the tiger did not move. I told my driver to get off, as lie was going to spring, when the man exclaimed — " He's dead, sahib — quite dead ! " and as he spoke, the fierce grim head fell to one side. The old " French- man " had for once done its duty, and the triumph was adjudged to me. I had had a very narrow escape, for my little elephant was not higher than the door of a room, and the result must have been terrible had the tiger made his spring. The hot-weather season was especially trying, and brought back my fever, with severe neuralgia, and I was racked by pain. " This won't do," said the doctor. " You must go away ; we can do no more here." 88 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. IV. My wife answered quietly, "Yes, doctor, we will go ;" and so it was settled : and on the 1st November I re- ceived my certificate and three years' leave of absence. Had the old furlough rule still existed, I must, humanly speaking, have died. We travelled on by easy stages, visiting Adjunta and its marvellous caves, now so well known by photo- graphs, and Major Gill's splendid fresco-paintings, which met so untimely a fate in the great fire at the Crystal Palace. We ^Iso visited the Ellora caves, and the cool air in- vigorated me, and brought back a feeling of health to which I had been long a stranger. At length we reached Bombay, pitching our tents on the esplanade. I had been ordered not to proceed direct to England, but to linger in Egypt or Arabia on account of their dry climate, and I set to work to see how this could be effected. The only steamer about to start was already full, cabin accommodation being very limited. Various schemes were thought of and failed. At last my agents told me one day that an Armenian gentleman had taken his passage on board a large Arab huggalow bound for Mocha, which had capital accommodation, and we could manage well if we took our servants. We went to see the ship, a large one of her class, about 400 tons burthen. She had come from Batavia, and was going to Mocha, with a light cargo. She had a poop and stern cabin, which occupied the whole breadth of the ship, with a bath-room attached. In front, the cuddy and two cabins — one for the captain, the other for our Armenian fellow-passenger, who, fortu- nately, spoke Arabic like a native. 1837.] LEAVE BOMBAY. 89 We found our servants very willing to go with us, and we laid in our stock of provisions, live-stock and liquors, not forgetting abundance of bottled water, sev- eral goats, two small tents, carpets and rugs. Some of our friends thought us very rash, but I argued if a vessel could come safely from Java, she could go to Mocha with a dead fair wind, and we felt no alarm. So early in January we sailed out of the har- bour, all things promising us a fair voyage. 90 CHAPTEE V. 1838. I AWOKE the next morning and went early on deck. How delicious it was, the cool pleasant breeze and the ship rolling lazily along under her enormous sail ! The captain, mate, and some others were on the poop, and I was greeted with a general " salaam aliekoom," which I returned, Arab fashion, and we all sat down. Presently the captain's breakfast was brought, rice and fried fish. " Bismilla, sit down with us," cried he ; " here we are all one, Arabs and Christians. Thank God ! we have got away from those Kafirs of Bombay, who were no better than Hindoos ! Come, sir, and eat with us." I did eat heartily, and found the viands very good indeed. At noon the mate, to my surprise, brought out a sextant, took the sun's altitude, and worked it out in English figures. He had three chronometers for longi- tude, and said he would take a lunar for correction in a day or two. All seemed so perfectly regular — for I had checked the calculations — that I was quite satisfied we could come to no harm through bad navigation. We had plenty of air and room, our own servants, and in our Armenian fellow-passenger an intelligent, agreeable companion. He had brought with him large stores of 1838.] THE VOYAGE. 91 Armenian beef, which was delicious, and is prepared in this wise. "Take pieces of lean, but good juicy beef, two or three cubic inches in size, boil them partially, then rub in salt, pepper, and a soupqon of onion. Pry in melted butter, or lard, or oil. Put loosely into jars, and pour boiling water over all till the jar is full. The beef will keep for years if closely covered." Altogether it was like travelling in one's own yacht, and was most enjoyable. I had told the captain that I belonged to H.H. the Nizam's service, and knew all the Arab sirdars of his court — AbdooUa ben Ali, Oomr ben Ooz, and others — and he said I should find their names, very useful to me on my journey. We sailed past Cape Partak, with its grand bold pre- cipices descending into the sea, and its perpetually varying colours and tints. Then headland after head- land, all of the same bold type, succeeded, until we cast anchor not far from shore opposite the town of Shaliar. Presently the sheikh left the fort, and his procession looked very gaj' as it wound down to the beach, where several boats were waiting ; they then put off with slow, measured stroke, the rowers singing in chorus as they approached our vessel. The sheikh, a fine old man, courteously invited us on shore and made us welcome. My wife was carried off to the women's apartments, and I conversed with our host, gravely smoking nargailes (water pipes) and sipping coffee the while. In the evening he took us to his garden without the town, and after that more pipes and more coffee, till the sun went down, when one of the men cried the invocation to prayer : carpets were spread, and all present performed their devotions. We then took our leave and returned 92 > STOKY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. v. to the ship, the starlight being more brilliant than I ever remember seeing it before. We continued our voyage next day, having landed our cargo and halted at MacuUah. This proved a very picturesque and curi- ous place, lying at the foot of huge mountains dipping into the sea. We went ashore, but the sheikh here was siu-ly and indifferent, and after pipes and coffee we took our leave. The captain told us the sheikh was in a bad humour about the " Aden affair," and we should soon find out all about it at Aden, which we reached in due time, casting anchor in the back harbour as the sun was setting. " I do not see any English ships," said the captain ; " I wonder there are not some here." Next morning he and I landed, and took donkeys to ride into the town. When we came to the barrier forti- fications, the guard at the gates refused to let us pass, but eventually allowed us to sit in the guard-room till permission should be obtained from the sheikh for our entrance. The sheikh himself soon appeared, followed by a nu- merous company, and sitting down ordered pipes and coffee. I did not like his look or that of his people, who swaggered about stroking their moustaches in a very Hyderabad fashion. I was not noticed ; and in a con- versation which ensued between the sheikh and our captain, I saw the face of the latter become very grave, and my Arab servant, as he handed me some coffee, stooped down and whispered, " You must get back quickly or they will seize you." This was not a pleas- ant prospect, as the gate was closed and resistance would have been hopeless. I could not understand a word of what was going on. At last I heard " Nizam " 1838.] VISIT TO ADEN. 93 and " Abdoola ben Ali"- occurring in the wrangle ; and after a wliile the captain told me I might go, and with a smile the sheikh offered -me his hand and bade me " depart in peace." " Go at once," said the captain. " I will tell you all afterwards.'' You may be sure I was only too thankful to make my way back to the ship, and I learned afterwards that my being in the Nizam's service and knowing two of his Arab chieftains intimately, had alone saved me from a very unpleasant detention. The English, said the sheikh, had been intriguing with a member of his family to get possession of the place, and he disapproved of the whole transaction. The English had fired from their ships and killed many people, and he had deter- mined to keep me in irons till an indemnity had been paid. What an escape I had had ! . The people were much excited, and but for my Hyderabad friends, I had a poor chance of getting away. I was indeed very very thank- ful for the great mercy shown to me, and we were heartily glad when the captain weighed anchor and we left the dreary rock behind us. We continued our voyage to Mocha, where we parted company with our good captain, who transferred us to another Arab vessel commanded by a friend of his, " Salim ben Ahmed," son of a rich merchant at Jeddah. At Mocha I found an English agency house, and some officers of the Indian Navy, who scarcely believed that I had visited Aden and had got out of it again. I had been in the greatest danger, for as soon as a force could be sent, Aden was to be attacked, and my life would surely have been forfeited. 94 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. v. Our new captain was anxious to proceed. We were to sail inside the reefs in smooth water, by day only. It was strange work threading our way in and out of the reefs. The weather was delicious, and every even- ing we made for some rooky island and were moored to it for the night. We often, in the evenings, took the boat and went out among the islands, occasionally land- ing to collect the lovely shells which abounded, or we took out our lines to fish, and were generally very suc- cessful. Such strange creatures we fished up ! Such varied forms and brilliant colours ! I began to make a collection of drawings of them, which I afterwards ex- hibited at the meeting of the " British Association at Newcastle-on-Tyne," and eventually presented to the Linnsean Society, for which I received the distinction of being elected an honorary member. The beauty of the beds of coral on these still evenings was indescribable : they were like huge beds of flowers — pink, red, emerald, yellow, and purple, mingled with grey and brown ; and the extraordinary clearness of the water gave us a feeling of hanging in the air which was very strange. We were really sorry when we neared Jeddah, and cast anchor in the harbour. Salim and I had concocted a scheme that I was to leave my wife at his house at Jeddah under the care of his mother, while he and I went to Mecca to see the haj (pilgrimage). " No one will recognise you," he said ; " you are browner than I am, and I will lend you clothes : we shall do the journey in the night." So we landed, and next day we were to start. We had, we thought, kept the secret safe ; but it had leaked out somehow, and our consul at Jeddah came to me and told me the Pacha had sent for him, and asked him whether I was going to Mecca. 183a] SAIL FOE SUUZ. 95 " He will be in danger without a firman from the Sultan, tell him,'' said the Pacha, "and I cannot give one." " You had better come and tell the Pacha you will give it up," said the consul, " for the gates will now be carefully watched, and you are not safe." I saw there was no use resisting, and very reluctantly I went to the Pacha. He laughed heartily when I assured him I would not go, and answered in French — " I do not care, but others do, and your life would be in peril." An English ship lay at anchor in the harbour, and proved to belong to Messrs Palmer of Calcutta, my wife's relations. The captain insisted on our coming at once on board, and we lived there most luxuriously for nearly a month. I had little hope of getting on to Suez during the haj, and our good friend. Captain Hill, offered to send us on to Tor, at the entrance of the Gulf of Akaba, in the beautiful long-boat, in which a cabin could easily be rigged up by awnings, and which would be under the command of the boatswain ; but this plan was frustrated by Captain Hill receiving orders to return sooner than he expected, and the long-boat would not have time to rejoin the ship. I heard of a good huggalow about to sail for Suez. We took our passages in her, and left our kind friends with regret. We intended to land at Tor, go to Mount Sinai, and thence to Jerusalem for Easter. The morning we sailed I awoke hearing an unusual shuffing of feet and a buzz of many voices. On going on deck, to my horror I found it and the poop both crowded with pilgrims from Mecca, who, the captain said, had been sent on board by order of the Pacha. 96 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. v. In vain I remonstrated, representing that I had taken the whole poop. The captain would or could do no- thing, and I told him I should appeal to the authorities at Yembo for redress. On arriving there, I sent my servant to the Pacha, requesting him to come and see the plight we were in. Men and women constantly in- truding into our cabin, a frightful crowd, the effluvia and vermin from which were sickening, and quite im- possible to describe ; added to this, we suffered terrible abuse for being " infidels," and my wife was afraid to leave her cabin. The pilgrims lived mostly on dry biscuit, and very pungent bitter cheese. Few only had the privilege of cooking any food ; and I very much feared that some frightful epidemic would break out among them soon. At length a Kavas, one of the Pacha's messengers, arrived, with the servant that I had sent before : he brought a kind message from his master, entreating us to come ashore at once. This was impossible, as we durst not leave our baggage ; but the Kavas carried off our captain, who was in a terrible fright, and then re- turned with a handsome boat belonging to the Pacha, and orders to take us and all our belongings to a Gov- ernment vessel, where, he said, the Pacha would meet us in the morning. We were not long in complying with this civility ; we once more breathed the fresh air, and the last I saw of the vessel was a scramble among the crowd to get near our cabin and flock into it. Next morning the Pacha visited us, accompanied by his secretary and staff. He was dressed beautifully, in a costume made of fine brown cloth, with a profusion of braiding of a darker shade of the same colour, and had several decorations on his breast. He spoke French 1838.1 SCENERY ALONG THE COAST. 97 with fluency, and a little English, and nothing could exceed his courtesy and kindness. " I am afraid to treat this rascal as he deserves," he said. "If I had the power, I would have bastinadoed him severely ; but he belongs to the English agent at Suez, and I dare not ; but I can at least release you from your present uncom- fortable position. I will put a crew and Eeis on whom you may depend on board this vessel, and you can dis- miss them whenever you please. All you have- to do is to give them their wages and food, which amount to very little. Take the ship to Tor, and if the wind is against you, you can take her on to Kosseir.'' I accepted his kindness most gratefully. That afternoon our new Eeis arrived, and early next morning we left Yembo with a handsome present of dates, Turkish sweetmeats, and new live-stock, fodder for our goats, and all we needed, from our kind friend. I was now my own commander, with a crew of twenty- four men and a pilot. I could go where I pleased, and the Eeis proved a good navigator. Yembo, from the sea, was the handsomest Arab town I had yet seen. It is built on the margin of the shore, up a rising ground, and the lines of whitewashed houses had a pretty effect. This town is the port of Medina, and the residence of the provincial governor, and there seemed to be a good number of Turkish troops stationed there. We gave passages, at their earnest solicitation, to a Turk and his wife, who had been with us on our former ship. He was old, and in bad health, and their state was really piti- able. His wife promised to be useful, and proved emi- nently so during our voyage. We had a delicious sail up to Tor, between the reefs and the mainland, and at night we made fast to one a 98 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. of the islands, or cast anclior in shallow water, and then went off in the boat seeking endless treasures in shells, fish, and coral. The colours of the shallows seemed to grow more intense and vivid — of all shades, from the deepest violet and purple blue, to the most brilliant turquoise, emerald green, and red ; and as we threaded the often narrow channels the effects were charming. The coast up to Yembo had been compara^ tively flat and uninteresting, but from thence it grew much bolder in character. Fine headlands were seen in front of us dipping into the sea, and the voyage increased each day in interest, till at length the rooky peaks and precipices of the Jebel Antar range stood out before us, and behind them lay the Gulf of Akaba. In this portion of our little voyage the scenery was very striking, and the atmospheric effects wonderful, as the sun ran its course, and the shadows of the peaks and ravines changed till all was merged in a soft violet tint as evening closed in. We were alone ; we saw no fishing-boats or other craft, no sign of dwelling or life upon the shore, which looked utterly desolate and barren in its grandeur. Very grand, too, is the mouth of the Gulf of Akaba, with the range of Jebel Antar to the south, and the far more lofty and imposing mountains of the Peninsula of Sinai to the north. The gulf itself was like a large lake shimmering in the mid- day sun as we entered it, the ranges of moun- tains on either side being veiled in lovely violet mist. Very soon- the little town of Tor lay before us, and as we anchored, and hoisted our English flag, a boat put off with one likewise flying at her stern ; and we found our visitor was the secretary to the English 1838.J ALTERED DESTINATION. 99 agent, who brought his chiefs compliments, and asked what he could do for us. We ordered pipes and coffee, and sat down to talk. " If this wind holds," said our friend, " you can go on to Suez ; but if a shimal or north wind blows, you may be kept here for a fortnight ; the sea is dangerous then for your small vessel." "And Akaba?" I asked. " Impossible," he answered ; " even the Sultan's fir- man is at present useless. The Arabs are fighting, and the passes quite closed. You must give up that idea." "Well, then, can we get to Mount Sinai, and to Jerusalem ? " " I fear not," he replied ; " but I will go on shore and ask the sheikh. Perhaps you will come with me ?" and I went. The old English agent was very civil, ordered pipes and coffee, and we proceeded to discuss the business, the Arab chiefs having come in. " You could only do it by yourself," they said ; " we could not carry you there with the lady : you would not fear a few shots if you were alone. Have you a firman from the Sultan ? " " No," I said ; " only a passport from the Bombay Government." " Ah ! " said they all, " that is of no use ; we could not be responsible for any Englishman without one from Constantinople." So Sinai was given up, and a shimal coming on, the Reis said we could not stay where we were ; there was no use in staying — the wind would soon moderate, and we could cross over to Kosseir very quickly and safely. So next morning we started with a fresh cool 100 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. breeze, and we had, at least, the whole of Egypt before us, and the sights that we had to see would be ample compensation for our disappointment. Our voyage was most propitious : we reached Kosseir very quickly, without touching a rope. On our arrival we found no difficulty in procuring camels ; and my servant "Abdoollah," who had been there before, and knew several of the principal people, was a great help to me. We remained on board our ship till all our preparations were complete, and our tents pitched under some date-trees, near the town. Then we landed, and walked through the place, once the ancient Berenice, with no trace left now of its former greatness, except the ruins which lay on either hand. No accommodation for my wife's journey could be devised, except large kajawas or panniers, slung upon a huge camel, with an awning above to keep off the sun ; and with soft bedding these were made endurable enough. For myself, I had a camel, and two donkeys in reserve. The Turk rode a donkey, and his wife a camel, on which were all their worldly goods. So we set out on our first march into the desert which lies between Kosseir and Keneh, the old beaten track of Egyptian, Greek, and Eoman traders, each in their turn through ages of the past. My previous idea of a desert was that it would be flat and sandy, but instead oiir road lay through a hollow, with con- siderable hills on either side, affording striking and pretty views at every turn. Here and there the valleys were very narrow, and high precipices towered on either hand. Again they widened into lateral ravines, which seemed interminable. In many places the rocks had Egyptian, Greek, or Eoman characters carved upon 1838.] OUK FIRST LOOK AT EGYPT. 101 them. Does any one know of these, and of their pur- port? It was not very hot, for the north wind blew cool and fresh, and we could travel all day. I had never left my camel, and towards evening became very tired. I lay down on some warm sand near our tents, and gradually stiffened, to the great alarm of my wife ; but my servant and the camel-men said they would soon cure me. I was turned on my face, and my back rubbed with castor-oil well heated. By this time some large cakes of dhoura meal had been prepared and partly baked, and these smeared with oil were bound on my back, the whole length of the spine, and partially covering my ribs. They were almost too hot to bear, but I obeyed orders, and allowed myself to be swathed up like a mummy. Next morning, to my great delight, I had neither pain nor ache : the remedy, rough though it was, had been effectuah On the fourth morning we met some men driving camels, and carrjring water-melons on their heads — how refreshing they were ! I think I see now our old Turk, whose lips were much chapped by the dry wind, sitting on a stone, intensely appreciative of the large slice I handed to him. A few miles further from the crest of the pass, we had our first look at Egypt. It was very beautiful : the cultivation reached nearly to the foot of the descent, of a vivid green, and most luxuriant ; wheat, barley, pulse, cotton, and sugar-cane, with fields of yellow and blue lupins in flower, patches of crimson clover, with date-trees, and sycamore, and our Indian hdbul, or mimosa, everywhere. My Hindoo servant cried out, excitedly, " India ! again India ! are we come back to it ? " No, it was 102 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. not India certainly, but it was inexpressibly lovely ; and our hearts were full of gratitude to God for His goodness in bringing us so far in health and safety. No more rough travelling, no more privation ; but instead, a sojourn among glorious scenes of antiquity and beauty which we had longed to see. A few miles more and we had reached Keneh, which seemed exactly like an Indian (Deccan) town, with its clay-roofed terraced houses ; and w^ were taken at once to the house of the English agent, who placed very comfortable rooms at our disposal, and took all the trouble of dismissing my camel-men off my hands. The house was scrupulously clean, and our friend's wife was a first-rate cook. I remember two dishes in particular — one of quails, fried somehow in vine-leaves, and another of long cucumbers, stuffed with delicately- flavoured mince-meat — that would have satisfied much daintier palates than ours. We' often wished to be able to converse with our host, who was a Copt, appar- ently a merchant, in good circumstances ; but the only mode of communication was Italian, of which he knew a very little, so we did not make much progress. I had some pleasant shooting : quail were plentiful, and I found snipe, too, in the little swamps, so that my bag was generally a good one. One day we sent out our tents a little distance from the town, and had a picnic, spending a quiet, dreamy day under the shade, enjoying the delicious cool wind, the great river flow- ing past us, and the peaceful scenery beyond. " You must see Deiidera to-morrow,'' said our host ; and we went, crossing by a ferryboat, and finding donkeys waiting for us on the other side. We breakfasted at the vestibule of the temple, and then set to work to 1838.] DENDEBA. 103 examine it, and the old Eoman town beyond it. My servant declared we must be in India, because there was a real Hindoo temple ; but the temple of Dendera was more imposing than any I had ever seen, and its grand proportions, at first not easily understood, grew upon one hour by hour. The roof is covered with names, modem and ancient ; Greek, Eoman, Egjrptian, and Arab, as well as every European nation, has its record of the "John Smith" of the inscriber, and I added mine to the number. The Eoman town interested me very much ; for not only were the narrow streets clearly defined, but some of the houses and walls, which were nearly perfect, and the round arches, though built only of sun-dried bricks cemented with mud, remained as they had been first erected, perhaps two thousand years before. We left the place with regret, grim and desolate though it was. The temple looked very grand in the evening light. No rain falls here, which accounts for the preservation of mud walls and arches. No rain for 2000 years — can one realise it ? We had seen all the sights, our clothes had been washed, our boat was ready — a small dahdbieh, very clean and comfortable — our luggage was stowed away on board ; but what were we to do with our Turk and his wife? He was very feeble, and she was of great use to us, so they were allowed a comer on board ; and we bade farewell to our kind friends, who gently de- clined any recompense, until at length I bethought myself of my small tents, which I offered them, and which were gratefully accepted. On our arrival at the river, we came upon an Arab woman frying pancakes and omelets for the boatmen. The woman had good 104 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. fresh butter, and the smell was very appetising ; so we sat down and had our meal of the pancakes and omelet, with salad and hard-boiled eggs, and ate till we could eat no more. How good it was ! Our intention was to go up to Assouan and Philas, then return and stay a while at Thebes, and so go down to Cairo. If the shimal lasted, we should run up to Thebes very fast. If we lost it, we might have varying winds ; but not a khamseen for a good while. It seemed a very pleasant programme ; we should see all the wonders of Egypt, we should sit in the gate of Ethiopia ; and as our boat was very light, there was no fear of the Cataract The Nile is far better known now than it was in those days — drawings, engravings, paintings, and photographs have been made of the scenes along its banks, and are familiar in England to all, so that any description of mine irom memory now, would, I fear, be incomplete and tiresome. Yet there are some scenes which can never fade or change as long as memory lasts. Who that has seen them could forget the granite quarries above Thebes, with the blocks of granite split from the native rock ready for transmis- sion down the river ? or cease to wonder at the means of transport and erection? Who can forget the gran- deur of the giant figtires of "Abu Simbel," or the perfect temple at Edfu? Above all, who can forget the wild scenery of the Cataract and Assouan — the shouts during the ascent amid the seething waters ; or the welcome change to the placid pool above, with exquisite Philee beyond, sitting a queen indeed upon the waters, glowing in the bright sunlight? We stayed at Philae for five days, living in the 1838.] PHILiE. 105 temple during the day, and sleeping on board our boat at night; and our enjoyment was intense. English visitors were rare then, and many boat-loads of natives came alongside to have a look at us, and bring us pres- ents. I think, among aU the many scenes which rise in my memory as I write, that those evenings spent at Philge were the most beautiful, when the still, long pool reflected the brilliant tints of the sky, among the dark basalt rocks, till all faded into dim grey ; and the moon, near the fall, cast over all a flood of silver light, and the temple, the ruins, and the feathery palms were bathed in it, tiU they seemed hardly of this world, and we sat on and watched the stars appearing, one by one, and drinking in the strange " eerie " beauty around us. If there is a place on earth where one's heart swells, and one's throat seems to tighten, it is Philse. Back again to Thebes, very pleasantly. Our crew were hard-working, good-humoured fellows, fuU of fun of one kind or another, singing merrily to their oars when the sails could not be used, and their voices sounded mellow and sweet in the choruses. No doubt there is monotony in Nile boat-life, and yet it is very pleasant, and very restful. If I pleased I could go ashore and have a day's shooting. My crew delighted in acting as beaters, and game was plentiful enough. Frequently we received presents from the chief man of the village — sour milk, the same as in India, live pigeons, vegetables, melons, or anjiihing he thought might be of use to us ; and he would beg in return a little English powder for firing, or a pencil, or a little tea. Sometimes I accepted an invitation for the even- ing, and smoked my pipe and drank coffee with the 106 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. village elders, longing always to be able to talk to them without an interpreter. They were much interested in India, and I had to answer many questions about its people and religion. I enjoyed these homely, but to me very interesting, meetings exceedingly ; and I read in after-days, with deep interest, the story of her life in Egypt, so touch- ingly described by my cousin, Lady Duff Gordon, in her delightful letters, and was able to feel how real and true are her descriptions. We remained at Thebes, I think, a fortnight, visiting all the places of interest, and especially the ruins of Karnak, where I made many elaborate sketches, now, alas ! lost. We crossed the river to the Memnonian Palace, part of which we had swept out for our abode. We were close to the great sitting statues, and could watch them at all times of the day, and in aU the changing lights. In the morning and evening nothing can exceed their grim uncouth grandeur. How they were brought from the quarries, how erected, who can say ? One can but look and wonder ! Of course, too, we visited the tombs of the kings. I need not enlarge upon them, or on the interesting fresco-paintings which illustrate not only the costume and customs of ancient Egypt completely, but also its wars and processions, the employment of the Jews during their captivity in making bricks, helping to drag large building-stones, and the like — the Jewish features being always discernible. The passages were hot and stifling, fuU. of bats, and the smell of the castor- oil lamps almost unendurable ; but we persevered, and saw all there was to see, enjoying our return into the cool fresh air afterwards. 1838.] OPENING A TOMB. 107 " Should we like to have one of the tombs on the hill- side above us opened ? " asked AbdooUah ; " the Arabs were willing, if we wished, to open one for a certain amount of buksheesh." I agreed at once, and next evening they returned with many curious objects : a chair, perfect except for its rush bottom, which had decayed ; a necklace of beads the colour of turquoise ; several scarabei, and small blue enamel figures ; and best of all, two most ele- gant terra-ootta boats, one of which had good, well- modelled figures at stem and stern, and an altar in the centre of the boat, at which a priest was offering. There were also some mummies of ibis, one of a small crocodile, and another which seemed to be a cat. They had likewise picked up a woman's mummied hand and part of an arm ; the hand was plump and beautiful in shape. The boats, and two of the scarabei, when examined at the British Museum, were found valu- able, as they proved the establishment of different kings, filling up gaps in one of the dynasties ; and I received, I think, £47 for them. All the minor articles I gave to Dr Abbott, the famous collector at Cairo, for his museum. The north wind had moderated very much, and we were anxious now to get on. We stayed a. day or two at Keneh with our old host . and hostess, who would take no denial. A fantasia of dancing - girls was to come off in my honour : I had never seen one, and was curious to see what the Ali-meh of Egypt were like. Certainly their dancing, or rather postur- ing, was very strange, some of it both elegant and spirited, as they twisted scarfs about each other, and waved their arms and bodies in time to the music. It 108 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. t. had an almost mesmeric effect upon me. Again, noth- ing could be wilder than some of their rapid move- ments, appearing to lose aU consciousness of self in their ever-varying gestures. Their singing was wild and plaintive by turns, but it did not interest me, as Egyptian music is very monotonous, the chief aim apparently being to produce long, high, quavering notes, which received due applause from the bystanders. Their costume was rich and good, — far more elegant, as were also their performances, than those of Indian nautch girls. They wore necklaces and bracelets in profusion of what appeared to be gold. I saw nothing indelicate or indecent in what they did during the whole per- formance. Laden with gifts from our kind friends, of flour, eggs, semolina, vegetables, sour milk, and fresh bread, we re-entered our boat, and started again down the river. There was not much variety in the scenery, but it was very pleasant, and the tall sails of the Nile boats, both traders and dahdbiehs, and the towns and villages which we passed, always formed pretty ob- jects in the landscape. We were still seven days from Cairo when I was attacked with ophthalmia in its worst form. The pain was horrible, and we were very thankful when we reached Cairo, where I was at once taken to the hotel, and put under the care of Dr Abbott, through whose skill, under God's blessing, my eyes were saved; but he said another day's delay would have been fatal. I was quite blind for some time, and I can never for- get the joy and thankfulness I felt when I saw again, though very dimly, my wife's dear face. With very great care I eventually recovered, but for a long 1838.] LAST SIGHT OF CAIRO. 109 time I appeared, to be looking through milk-and-water with opal tints upon it. At Cairo, I was told by the English vice-consul that a long complaint had been laid against me by the owner of the luggalow from which I had been delivered at Yembo. I was accused of breach of faith, violence to the Eeis of the vessel, and other misdemeanours; and the official was stifi! in manner, and far from agreeable. I showed the decision of the Pacha at Yembo, which he forthwith entirely ignored. My copy of the agreement made at Jeddah, and signed by Mr Ogilvie, was, however, very different to the one filed on the plaint and un- authenticated, and my friend began to doubt. "Had I any witnesses?" he asked. I had only my servant and the old Turk, who were desired to proceed next day to the vice-consulate. Their account of the affair simplified the matter very much, and the vice-consul told me they gave evidence in no measured terms, and descriptions of our state which I dare not record ; so the question was referred to the consul-general at Alexandria, and I promised to appear when called for. I was not allowed to go out, except with my ' eyes closely bandaged ; but after some time we were given leave to prepare for our journey. A boat was engaged, and we left Cairo, the scene of so much sufiering and so much mercy. As we rode on in the early evening after leaving Boulak, Cairo, with its groves, minarets, and domes, and its lofty citadel, with the rugged hills beyond it, was before us on one side. On the other, date-groves, villages, green fields, and the mysterious Pyramids in the distance, behind which the sun was setting, and a glory of crimson light- tinted clouds hung above them, and spread over the 110 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. southern and* eastern sky, reflected in the broad stiU river ; and as the sun sank lower, the distance changed to the deepest violet, and at length a still misty grey veiled it from our eyes. What a picture it would have made ! On my arrival at Alexandria, I was summoned to the consulate at once, and most courteously received. My affairs were under investigation, and the result was that all my passage - money was returned, and the owner of the huggalow fined into the bargain, and threatened as well with the loss of his agency if he ever attempted imposition again. My cousin, Mr Philip Taylor of Marseilles, was then inspector-in-chief of the "MessageriesEoyales" steamers, and knowing I was on my way home, had desired the captain of the steamer then at Alexandria to inquire for me. Finding we had arrived, ' he very kindly sent off for our baggage, and when we went on board we found the best cabins reserved for us. We had to take leave of our faithful Turk and his wife ; the latter clung to my wife, crying, " Take me to England with you ! " and refusing all payment. "Why should you ask me to take money ? " she said ; " I have plenty — my husband has plenty ; why should you think of it ? " All I could persuade her to take was one of the Dec- can goats. The other I gave to the mistress of the hotel at Alexandria ; and when I returned on my way back to India it knew me again, and rubbed its head against me ! Off again, — to Smyrna first, in such luxury as we had long been strangers to — such delicious beds and sofas ! such a cook ! such excellent wine ! and a captain who could never do enough to make us comfortable, and help 1838.] QUARANTINE AT MALTA. H] to pass the time agreeably. We had English and French books on board, chess, piquet, and other games ; but my great delight was to lie lazily watching the sea, to feel the delicious climate, and, as they express it in Indian idiom, to eat the air. We ran across from Smyrna to Crete, coasting along its eastern shore to Syra, where we were to stop ; thread- ing our way among the islands before a balmy wind, through the ^gean Sea, now passing barren unin- habited rocks, again fertile islands, all combining to form sea-pictures of surpassing beauty. Leaving Syra, where I did not land, being satisfied with our captain's account of its dirty streets, and strange pyramid of ter- raced houses, which looked sufficiently picturesque from the sea, we bounded on past more islands, more head- lands, those of the south of Italy being very grand ; and so to Malta, where we were boarded by the officer of health, and carried away to the gloomy - looking quarantine lazaretto. Here we had airy rooms, and a guardiano appointed to us as our sole attendant. As we had a clean bill of health we thought it very hard, but we had to submit to twenty-one days' detention nevertheless. Our guardi- ano, " Michele," was a merry fellow, and did his best to cheer us. "Did he know Mrs Austin?" I asked; "and was she still at Malta?" "Who does not know that kind lady, who is as a mother to us all?" was the reply. "Was I her brother?" " No, her cousin,'' I said ; " and she will come and see us when she hears we have arrived ; " and so she did, coming to the Parlatorio, which had a double iron 112 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. v. grating, too distant one from the otter for us even to shake hands. I told her how we had travelled, and what we had done, and she seemed wonderstruck that we had performed such a journey so well. I also con- fided to her about my book, ' The Confessions of a Thug.' She was about to start for England, and asked me to give her my MS. to look over on her journey. I did so ; but the three volumes were first scored through with knives, then smoked with sulphur tiU the ink turned pale, and finally delivered to her, by means of a pair of long tongs, through a narrow slit in the grating ! A few books had fortunately been left in our quarters by charitable predecessors ; and with these and bathing, swimming about within the prescribed limits, our time passed somehow. At length we were released, and took up our quarters in the town ; but the glare was trying to my eyes, and the heat very great, as it was June, so we were not sorry to leave Malta, and embarked again, passing Etna, then Messina, where we stayed a few hours ; and Stromboli, casting up its red-hot stones into the dark heavens, an- swering Etna, whose illumined pillar of smoke towered grandly to the sky miles astern. On to Naples, where we were refused permission to land, owing to a dispute about port-dues between the French and Neapolitan Governments. So to Leghorn, and the lovely gulf of Spezia, and all the glorious beauty of the Eiviera, till, finally, we arrived at Marseilles on the 3d July, and were met by a hearty welcome from our relations. One amusing incident occurred. I had two large jars of Indian preserved tobacco, and our captain assured me these would inevitably be confiscated. I had no wish to lose my tobacco, and was determined to pass it if I 1838.] SCENE AT THE DOUANE. 113 could. My panther and tiger skins were ruthlessly seized, to my great dismay, and I trembled for the precious jars. I wish I could give the conversation in the original French as it occurred. "What is this?" asked one of the douaniers, po- litely. " Oh, taste it," said another. " I daresay it is a preserve." That gave me my cue. " Yes, gentlemen," I said, " it is an Indian preserve that I have brought with me. Will you do me the favour to taste it?" " Is it sweet ? " asked one ; " it has a strange smell," and he sniffed at the open jar. "Ah, yes," said I — "peculiar, no doubt; there are many strange things in India." " No doubt, sir — no doubt ; but is it sweet ? " " Surely," said I ; "it is prepared with sugar and spices ; do try it." " Well," he returned, " here goes," as he put in his forefinger, and swept out a good lump, which he put into his mouth. Now if there can be anything more inconceivably nasty to the taste than another, it must be prepared Indian tobacco ; and the man, after sucking weU at the lump, spat it out upon the floor with a volley of oaths, while the others stood round in fits of laughter. " You do not seem to like it, sir," I said, as gravely as I could ; " but it was surely sweet ? " " Sweet 1 yes," he cried, " the devil's sweetness. Horrible ! horrible ! sacre ! , . . horrible ! " " Perhaps," said I, looking round, " some other gentle- man would like to try it." H 114 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. VL "Is it hot?" said one; "Indian things always burn one's mouth." " There is no pepper whatever in it," I replied. "And how do they eat it?" asked another; "is it with bread-and-butter ? " " Well," I returned, " there are many ways of using it — every one to his taste, you know." " Certainly, sir, certainly ; every country has it pecu- liar tastes ; may we try it ? " " By all means," I said. Then there was a rush at the jar, and all put in their fingers and hooked up bits to taste. It was impossible not to laugh, and my cousins fairly roared at the scene that ensued, the douaniers spitting, splut- tering, swearing, declaring the preserve only fit for the devil to eat, and getting rid of their quids as fast as they could ; but one turned his head on one side, and said — " Do you know, my friends, I rather like it ? one would soon grow fond of it. May I take some home to my children ? " " Shut up the jars ! " cried the chief, gruffly ; " let us have no more of such nonsense ! Let them go to the devil ! I beg your pardon, monsieur, but the taste wiU not leave my mouth — like rotten cabbage with sugar on it ! Bah ! we cannot charge duty on poison like that. Take it away ! " So I carried off my two jars in triumph We pushed on after a few days' stay at Marseilles, where for the first time in my life I saw and examined machinery of the highest interest. Mr Philip Taylor had lately embarked in marine engineeriag work, as weU as in the manufacture of powerful machines for oil-mills 1838.] ARRIVE IN LONDON. 115 and the silk trade, and his comparatively small establish- ment grew rapidly into a large concern. We found the journey by diligence to Paris very fatiguing, and probably we suffered more than others from having led such a free open-air life, and the close cramped-up vehicle seemed stifling. However, Paris was reached at length, and after a few days' delay, spent mostly at the glorious Louvre, and also in re- freshing our, by this time, very dilapidated wardrobes, we set off again, reaching London at last, after a weary night journey from Dover in the coach. 116 CHAPTER VI. 1839-40. I KECEIYED an affectionate welcome from all the mem- bers of my family who were in London. I had left them a boy, and had entered on a life which was quite new and strange to them ; and I think some were sur- prised to find I " had the manners of a gentleman," as one remarked to me, " and did not show traces of con- tact with the savage tribes of India ! " nor could he be persuaded that the people among whom I had been living were highly civilised, and in many ways resem- bled ourselves. I determined not to speak of India unless I were asked direct questions, or to tell Indian stories, which might not be believed. Mrs Austin, to whom I had confided my precious MS. at Malta, had been much interested in its perusal, and kindly introduced me to Mr Bentley, in whose hands I left it ; and to my infinite delight he eventually accepted it, and the agreement was duly executed. Thus one great wish of my life was to be fulfilled. ' I had hopes, too, of obtaining further literary employ- ment, and as my long journey had been terribly expen- sive, and my means were slender enough, I looked for- ward to both pleasure and profit in my work. 1839-40.] LITEEAEY WORK. 117 I attended the meeting of the British Association held that year at Newcastle-on-Tyne. I exhibited my drawings of Ked Sea fish, but as I had no knowledge of ichthyology, I could only explain the localities and circumstances in which I found them. As I have said, I gave them to the Linneean Society, and was not a little proud when I was elected an honorary member. I paid a visit, too, to my uncle, Mr Prideaux Selby, at Twizell, and was pleased to find the collection of birds and insects I had sent him from India in excellent preservation, and much appreciated by him. We spent a happy time visiting among my dear mother's relations at Mitford, Twizell, and North Sun- derland ; and my book was going slowly through the press. My MS. proved too voluminous : much had to be curtailed and condensed ; a great deal was pro- nouncd really too horrible to publish ; and at last I found it advisable to return to London to see about it, Mr Bentley wrote to me that I must come and hurry it, as " Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen " (to whom Mr Bentley was Publisher in Ordinary) " had directed sheets, as they were revised, to be sent to her — and having become interested in the work, wished for further supplies as soon as possible." I worked hard at my proof-sheets, and was very busy. I was asked to write an article for the ' British and Foreign Quarterly,' on " The Disposition of the Native Princes of India towards England " in the event of a protracted struggle in regard to the Affghan war, and I freely confess I was afraid to undertake it. However, I set to work, and did my best, and it was approved of, and, I was told, excited much interest in England, and particular attention on the Continent, and that it was 118 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. Tl translated into several languages. I founded my article on Major Sutherland's little book upon Native States, which he had written while Secretary to Sir Charles Metcalfe, and which I unearthed in the depart- ment of the President of the Board of Control, uncut. I referred to my article lately, and among the native states there recorded, some, as Oudh, Nagpore, Satara, and Jhansi, have been annexed to the British domin- ions, and are now integral portions of its empire of India ; but the remainder exist as they were, the treaties being strengthened by her Majesty's proclama- tion on the assumption of the government of India by the Crown ; and though some modifications of older treaties have occurred, they in nowise alter those which are recorded in Major Sutherland's work. I received ninety-five guineas as my honorarium for this article, the first money I earned by writing, and I do not think I ever felt prouder or more pleased. In this, and all my undertakings, I have ever had the soundest advice and most steady help from my dear cousin, Henry Keeve, whose faithful love and friendship have never failed me all my life. I went to see Lord William Bentinck, who was then in London. He received me very kindly ; and I felt more and more, as the intellectual aspect of London society was opening upon me, that, but for his generous interest in me when I was in sore strait, I should never have returned to my native country. He was much interested in the introduction of vernacular education into India, and also of translations of English works ; and he charged me, as I agreed with him, to do my utmost to support the cause in England, and to assist it in India. I never saw him again. His health was 1839-40.] DRIVING THE "WILD TEAMS." 119 terribly broken, but his interest in these subjects never flagged. I got back to the north for Christmas. Such cold, as I had long been a stranger to, set in ; and as I could not get further than Manchester by railway, I had to mount the coach, there being no inside seat. Well do I remember that drive, the biting north-east wind, and the keen frost — I sitting by the coachman ; and at last, when he could hold out no longer, I took the reins ; and I believe the excitement of driving the " wild teams," as the coachman called them, kept me up, for I had never felt such cold before. At every stage we found hot tea ready ; and if possible every team was wilder than the one before ; but we drove in turn : and when, on reaching Leeds, I tendered my half- crown, the man would not take it. " No, no, sir ; not a penny from a genl'man as helped a fellow like me to get through such a night ! If it hadn't a bin for you w'd ha' been on top of Blackstone Edge a-lyin' in the snow, for I couldn't a-drivin ye ! " And I assure you I felt proud of the good fellow's hearty commen- dation. The year that was expiring had been very memor- able to me. When I reflected on the great distance we had safely traversed, the variety and interest of the scenes we had witnessed, the merciful protection we had enjoyed, my recovery from long and severe iUness, and the restoration of my sight — my heart was lifted up in thankfulness to the Almighty Giver of all these mercies. Besides, there was the reunion with my family : aU had received me with open arms. A few dear faces were missing, certainly — one I never ceased to mourn, who would have shared my pleasures and my 120 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, vl troubles, and whose loving sympathy was always ready for her boy ; but my life was a very happy one, and the dawning hope of literary employment, however humble, was very precious to me. Eetuming to London in spring, I found my book, ' The Confessions,' had been received with much greater interest and success than I had ever ventured to hope for; and not only did the London papers and periodicals take it up, but the provincial press teemed with flatter- ing reviews and long extracts from it. It was curious to hear people wondering over the book and discuss- ing it ; and evidently the subject was a new sensation to the public. It passed rapidly through the first edition, and a second was in preparation. I was asked also to write another book, which should take the place of an historical novel, and become the forerunner of a series of such Indian works, and Tippoo Sultan was chosen as the subject. I remonstrated, as I considered the theme too recent ; and what could I make out of it? To be sure, I had travelled through Mysore, and could describe local scenery and objects, but I fairly despaired of making a readable story out of Tippoo. But my publishers were not to be convinced, and I promised to do my best. I required some information in regard to points in the Duke of Wellington's transactions with the family of Tippoo Sultan, and I wrote to him asking him to be so good as to help me. To this request I received a short and very characteristic reply, written on a scrap of foolscap paper, dated from the House of Lords. " The Duke of Wellington is too busy at present to answer Captain Taylor's note ; but if he will at- tend at Apsley House to-morrow at eleven, the Duke 1839-40.] A STRANGE SPEECH. 121 will endeavour to remember what Captain Taylor re- quires." The note was the merest scrawl, but was precious to me in remembrance of the very courteous interview that followed. His memory was perfectly clear, and he had forgotten nothing in regard to his own part in the first Mahratta war. He told me ' The Confessions ' had fairly taken him back to India. I spent the summer in Ireland, principally at the dear old house at Harold's Cross, in which I now reside. We travelled, too, to KUlarney and Limerick, and visited my father, who was then living in the Co. Clare. On our way, I had the strangest speech maJo to me by an old beggar-woman that I think I ever heard, even in Ireland. As we drew up at Naas, the usual clamour for charity began. I was on the box-seat, wrapped up in a coat bordered with fur, and doubt- less looked very cosy. One of the old women called out — " Ah, thin, comfortable gintleman, throw us a cop- per!" I was dubbed " comfortable gintleman " by the crowd tin I could no longer resist, so I threw down a shiUing to be di^dded. On this my old friend dropped on her knees in the mud, and raising her clasped hands, cried — " Ah, thin, that yer honour might be in heaven this night, sittin' wid the blessed Vargin Mary upon a binch!" At KiUamey we fairly bothered the beggars by speak, ing to them in Hindostanee, and thereby escaped im- portunity. "Hasn't he moustaches?" said one. "He is a fur- 122 STORY OF MV LIFE. [chap. vi. riner. What's the good o' axing the likes of him? Bad cess to him." In spring I went to London again, having devoted the winter to the writing of my new book, and to enjoy- ing Dublin hospitalities. I had the entrie into much delightful society in London, and became acquainted with many distin- guished characters. Lady Morgan was insatiable about Indian stories, and I had to invent or improvise when my memory failed me. At her house we had rich treats in music, Moscheles, Liszt, and others frequenting her rooms constantly, besides many gifted amateurs. I was free of Gore House too, and look upon the evenings spent there as among the pleasantest remin- iscences of that period. It was most interesting and fascinating to me to meet so many men of note under such charming auspices as those of Lady Blessington. Most of these now, per- haps, are gone to their rest, and there is no need to mention names. Does any one remember the strange, almost " eerie " speech that Prince Louis Napoleon made one evening there, when, leaning his elbow on the mantelpiece, he began an oration declaring the policy he should adopt when he became Emperor of the French ? And I remember, too, when this really hap- pened, how his actions actually accorded with that strange speech. When Lady Blessington rallied him good-naturedly on what he had said, he put his hand on his heart, bowed gravely, and told her that he was never more in earnest in his life, and that she would understand it all by-and-by. Maolise and I walked home together, and could speak of nothing else. 1839-40.] SOCIETY AT GORE HOUSE. 123 As I came to know Prince Louis Napoleon better, he proposed to me to join him in a tour through India which he contemplated, taking with him Count D'Orsay. He was to apply for my services as long as he required them, and the plan appeared delightful. I heard from him direct, after I had returned to India, asking for information on various points of equipment, &c. ; but the Boulogne affair and what followed put an end to the whole scheme, to my infinite regret. I remember, too, another very interesting evening at Grore House, when I was presented to the son of the great Eussian Minister, Count Nesselrode. He had been specially sent over to glean intelligence of the English designs in Asia, and he set himself steadily to pick my brains on all sorts of Indian subjects. He was, or affected to be, sm^rised at my account of the number, discipline, and equipment of the native army in India, of the condition of the cavalry and artillery, and espe- cially when I told him that I should not hesitate to put my own regiment of native infantry in brigade with H.M. Guards, and that they would work with them as well and as effectively as any regiment of the line. I was complimented afterwards by several present on having spoken out some very hom"e truths fearlessly, and I hope they were of use. That night Lablache and Tamburini sang by turns, and imitated the singing of Grisi and Persiani, in the most surprising way, in falsetto, quarrelling over it very amusingly. But I may not linger over these memories, which few who shared them could have forgotten. It was to be my last seasto of such society for many a long year, and I prized it accordingly. I pass over the intervening time which we spent in 124 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. vl farewell visits among our friends and relatives, and we left London in November, on our return to India. I had attended the last levee of the season, " on de- parture for India," and as I knelt to kiss her Majesty's hand, she said to me very graciously, " I wish you a safe voyage, and trust I may see you again." And so she did, exactly twenty years later. Back again, through Paris and Marseilles, from Malta to Alexandria and Cairo, and so to Suez, down the Eed Sea, always hot and uncomfortable, and we were glad at last to reach Bombay early in January, after our long absence. We sent on our luggage on carts to Poona, and our- selves started, just as I had done seventeen years before, on my first journey to Aurungabad to begin life. How was I to go on ? Was I to rejoin my regiment, and continue its dull routine of duties, or was a fresh career before me? My mind was filled with specula- tions on these and many other points. I need not go over again my old route to Poona, where we did not stay long, but went on to Sholapoor. All along the route I found luxuriant and continuous cultivation, instead of the waste land and deserted villages of 1824. The original survey operations had been improved, the assessments had been reduced and arranged on a proper valuation of the land, and the change in the aspect of the country was as remarkable as it was beneficial. The early millet and pulse of the first crop of the season had been reaped on the uplands, but in the lower ground the later millet and wheat were fast ripening, and the sheets of golden grain were truly beautiful. All over the upland stubbles were large flocks of ortolans, of which I shot numbers, affording us 1839-40.] INDIA AGAIN. 125 delicious eating ; and every afternoon I rambled out with my gun, and seldom failed to bring in a bag of hares, quails, and partridges. It was a most enjoyable journey throughout. We had a very pleasant party of fellow-travellers : a lady and her family, who came with us from Bombay on her way to join her husband ; and the children were charm- ing companions, boys and girls both accompanying me in my rides, mounted on stout ponies, and scrambling all over the country. The only uncomfortable member of the party, I believe, was their tutor, a Frenchman, who found the people barbarians, the country barbarous, and the language worse. Above all, there were no hotels, no wayside ian, even, where one could procure a cup of coffee. His chief delight was to come out with me, and see partridges and quails shot flying. We reached Sholapoor in due course, and found tents sent for us by Mr Palmer. We halted there for two or three days, and then pursued our march by the Nul- dj-oog and Hominabad road, through my old district of 1827-29. From Sholapoor to Hyderabad in those days there was, strictly speaking, no road, only a track ; but I knew every mile thoroughly, and that I could obtain assistance everywhere if it were required. The tents were very comfortable ; the children, and even Monsieur, were enchanted : they were lined with pretty chintz, and carpeted, and had double walls and roofs to keep off the sun, and were a luxury we had not expected. I received a perfect ovation through my old district, and it was very gratifying to find I had not been for- gotten. At Nuldroog, where we halted a day or two, the townspeople visited me in great numbers ; and both 126 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vi. from the Nawab's agent in the fort, and from the zem- indars, came presents of provisions, trays of sweet- meats, barley-sugar, and almonds, not only for ourselves, but for aU my servants and followers. At every vil- lage, as we entered it, the authorities came out to meet us with jars of milk, baskets of eggs, and humble offer- ings of flowers, while the piper played us past the village. At one resting-place, parties of women came to visit my wife, and teU her stories of me, and how " at first they used to be afraid of the gentleman with the ' red trousers ; ' but he had done them no harm, and the country was not so quiet now as when he had been with them," and more that was pleasant to me to hear. At Hominabad, in particular, the welcome given to me was on a great scale : all the merchants and others assembled about half a mile from the town headed by my old friend Atmaram, the dean of guild ; and there were baskets of flowers, sweetmeats, and fruits, which I had to accept. The town pipers and drummers played us to our tents ; provisions were provided for all the party ; and in the afternoon crowds came to visit me, and have a talk over old times in their simple, homely fashion. They were very curious about England, and I had to recount all my doings since I had left them. My wife, also, had her assembly of women ; and told me after- wards, with tears in her eyes, how precious it was to her to hear how these people really loved me, and wanted me to come back to them. Next day we proceeded to Ekali, where it may be remembered I had marched after the insurgent rebel before-mentioned. He was still confined at Hyderabad, 1839-40.] ARRIVAL AT HYDEKABAD. 127 and had been fined heavily ; but was said to have be- come a reformed character, and to have grown very humble and religious. At Sudasheopett, my old residence, I had another similar ovation ; but my little bungalow had been re- moved, and a larger one built for the accommodation of travellers, and I was rather sorry not to see it again. On the 26th February we arrived at Hyderabad, having been just a month on the road ; and Mr Palmer was overjoyed to see us again. I put a copy of my new book, ' Tippoo Sultan,' into his hands, and in some respects he liked it better almost than 'The Confessions.' He told me that nearly every one doubted my really being the author of ' The Confessions ; ' and said it was fortunate that I had sent him the work in manuscript as I did, so that he could assure all sceptics that he had read it in my handwriting before I had left India, thus ending all discussion. General J. S. Fraser had succeeded Colonel Stewart as Resident at Hyderabad, and received me most cordi- ally, recommending me very earnestly to pursue my literary work, and prophesying that I should find ample occupation for my pen. My regiment, the 6th, was at Bolarum, and the men and officers came to see me in numbers, and to welcome me back again ; but General Fraser was making other arrangements for me. I was to go to Hingolee to take command of the 8th, whose commandant had gone on furlough to Europe. It was a long march in the hot weather ; but orders had to be obeyed, and we started on the 13th March, making as long stages as we could. During our stay at Hyderabad the festival of the Mohurrum had occurred ; and I was gratified to find 128 STORY OF MY LIFE.- [chap, vl that my description in the ' Thug,' although written from memory, was correct in every particular, yet hardly giving an idea of the grandeur of the scene. One sore disappointment awaited me. I had hoped that my little savings, upon which I had not drawn during my absence in England, would have increased materially ; instead of this, all had been swept away, with a very small hope of recovery, and I had to begin afresh. Had I died then, my dear wife and child would have been left penniless ; but God was merciful to me in all things. Before I left Hyderabad, General Fraser warned me to make no arrangements to reside at Hin- golee, as I might be sent on to EUichpoor to act as staff- officer and paymaster. And so it proved. We again marched on the 19th April, and reached our des- tination safely. Since our departure from Bombay we had travelled very nearly seven hundred miles, and we were truly thankful to be at rest, and with a delicious climate to live in. The brigadier had the privilege of residing at Chiculdah, upwards of 4000 feet above the sea, where there was no heat, and the nights and morn- ings were almost cold. My eyes, which had suffered much from our march in the heat and glare, now im- proved rapidly, and I would fain have remained at Chiculdah during the monsoon ; but as soon as the rains set in, the brigadier and the doctor moved into cantonments, and we were forced to follow. I then began a new book, but my eyes proved too weak for writing, and I was obliged to give it up. I could paint better, and amused myself by taking por- traits of my friends. I managed, however, to send an article to England on " Educational Measures for the People of India," which 1839-40.] I REJOIN THE 8TH EEGIMENT. 129 was called forth by a controversy then raging between the Arabic, Persian, and Sanscrit party, and the English and vernacular, whose cause I espoused, not only in the Indian press, but in my letters for the ' Times,' which were then regularly sent by every mail. My advocacy of their measures did not slacken until they were finally adjusted ; for the practical benefit to the people by their adoption far exceeded what might be looked for from the ancient system and languages so ardently insisted upon by Wilson and others. I need not now enter into the particulars — they are matters of history, and out of date ; but I have never regretted the part I took in this discussion when I see the noble results which have been already attained, and are rapidly advancing year by year all over India, in all its regions, and in all its vernacular languages. At the latter end of October my tenure of staff em- ployment came to an end, and I was ordered to rejoin the 8th Eegiment at Hingolee. A pretender to the person and claims of Appa Sahib, the ex-Kajah of Nag- pore, who had escaped from custody after the Mahratta war of 1818, had arisen in rebellion in the Nagpore dis- trict, and, joined by bodies of Eohillas and others, was plundering where he could. The 8th Eegiment was already in the field, and I was directed to join it with- out delay. So I started through a wild and almost de- populated, but very beautiful, tract of country, and in a few days came up with the regiment. The campaign, however, was concluded by Captain Johnston's capture of Appa Sahib, after a truly surprising march of 78 miles in 32 hours. Another brilliant attack was made on a party of EohiUas by Brigadier Twemlow, at the head of a detachment of cavalry : 150 of the enemy I 130 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. VI. were left dead upon the field, and tte rest captured ; the cavalry lost eight killed and wounded only. This was a truly gallant affair, for the Eohillas (Affghans) are well known for their bravery, and for good use of their weapons. My contributions to the 'Times' were apparently liked, for I heard at this time that I had been appointed " Special Correspondent," on a yearly stipend ; and this honour I continued to enjoy for many years. On the 23d November, just as I had ridden in from Secunderabad, I received a note from General Eraser desiring me to come to him at once, as he had some- thing important to communicate ; so I rode in to break- fast, after which we entered on the business for which he had sent for me. 131 CHAPTER VII. 1841-42. I HAD been aware that an officer of cavalry, a very accomplished and able man, had been employed as Political Agent at Shorapoor for more than a year in adjusting affairs at issue between that State and the Government of H.H. the Nizam, in pursuance of Act 17 of the Treaty of 1800 between the British Govern- ment and the Nizam, which stipulated for interference between the Nizam and Shorapoor in case of the latter withholding payment of tribute and just claims due to the former. The original tribute had been comparatively low ; but the Nizam's Government had increased it on various pretences, and on the succession of the late Eajah, who had very recently died, a Nuzzerana, or succession fee, of fifteen lakhs (£160,000) had been exacted by the Nizam's Minister, which was to be liquidated by instal- ments. These demands led to many complications, in which the British Government had always been obhged, under pressure of the treaty, to take a part. Money had been borrowed from local bankers under the signature of British ofificers to pay instalments of tribute and sue- 133 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, vu cession fees, which the impoverished State could not meet ; and there were disputes between the Shorapoor State and the bankers, the bankers and the Nizam's Government, which altogether presented a very com- plicated and eminently disagreeable state of affairs. The officer in charge had just concluded a proposed settlement of aU these matters, and had submitted an exhaustive report on the country and its revenues and resources, when the Eajah, Krishnappa Naik, died sud- denly, and his elder Eanee, Ishwarama, assumed the administration as regent to her son, a boy of seven ■ years old or thereabouts. The Eanee was a woman of much energy and clever- ness, but she was dissolute to a degree — in fact a very Messalina, and hardly second to the famous Maha Eanee of the Punjaub. Her infidelities were known to her husband and his family, but could not be checked. On the death of her husband she defied aU parties, resisted the settlements made by Captain Gresley, and called out the military forces of the country, about ten thou- sand men, whom she rallied round her, inducing the leaders to promise to support her on oath. The late Eajah's family, who headed a strong party in the State, had declared themselves opposed to the Eanee because of her infamous character ; and acting according to their declaration, the late Eajah's brother, by name Pid Naik, had been proposed as regent during his nephew's minority, an arrangement which was rati- fied by the Governor-General in Council. This measure, however, had been violently resisted by the Eanee, and she defied her brother-in-law and the British Govern- ment alike. Affairs having reached this point, and Captain Gres- 1841-42.] A DIFFICULT UNDEETAKING. 133 ley having no disposition to temporise, lie applied for a force to disperse the adherents of the Eanee, to estab- lish Pid Naik in ofBoe, and to assist him generally to carry out the measures he had proposed, and which had received sanction. General Fraser, however, did not consider an exhibi- tion of force necessary, nor had he, he thought, a suffi- cient number of troops at his disposal to render it suffi- ciently imposing. Our army was then evacuating Affghanistan, and there was no security in the Punjaub after the death of Maharajah Eunjeet Singh. Troops from the southward had been marched northwards, a measure which had caused outbreaks of mutiny in some corps of the Madras army ; and while the movement across the Punjaub was in progress, it was felt that any outbreak of war elsewhere might be only as a spark to a magazine of general treason, which might explode with fearful consequences. When the assistance of a force was denied him, the poHtical officer reported that he could do no more than he had done ; that the position of the Eanee was grow- ing stronger ; and that if she were supported by Arabs, Eohillas, and other mercenaries whom she had flinds to maintain, the result would be a costly and bloody little war, always to be deprecated. He had already been able, by seizing the ferry-boats on the Bheema and Krishna rivers, to prevent the cross- ing of those mercenaries ; but the rivers would now soon be fordable, and no security would then exist. He therefore begged to tender his resignation, and to be relieved without delay. " Will you take up this matter, Taylor ? " asked General Fraser of me. " If you succeed, it wiU be a 13t STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vn. good thing for you, and you are at any rate indepen- dent. I cannot spare any other officer just now on whom I could rely." I saw it was a very, very difficult matter — one in which a very able man had failed ; but it was a chance of political employment, for which I longed ; and I was confident in myself, and knew that if I should be so fortunate as to succeed. Government would be obliged to me. So I accepted the offer at once, and said I would do my best to bring the refractory lady to terms. No doubt I was rash ; but I could but do my best, and did not anticipate a long absence. I went at once to Secunderabad, packed up what things I required, took my tents, and marched the following morning to Hyderabad. I employed the next day in reading up the very voluminous papers con- nected with the case, and afterwards again visited the Eesident to have a final consultation. He explained his intended line of policy, which was to abstain from using force as long as negotiation could be carried on, and the interest of the Government secured ; that, in fact, he had no available troops till the regiments now on their march should reach Hyderabad ; and then, if necessary, he would support me with four regiments. I Started alone the following morning, and on the fourth day reached Muktul, a distance of 120 miles. On my way to Shorapoor I went to Captain Gresley's camp, and heard from him an entire exposition of his transactions with Shorapoor from first to last. He told me that the EaDBe's paramour, a man named Chun Busappa, was now paramount; that Pid Naik was in dread of his life ; that the Kanee was insolent and confident to the last degree ; that she knew of the 1841-42.] SHOEAPOOE. 135 British reverses in Affghanistan ; and that her astrol- ogers were filling her mind with the most absurd stories of the evacuation of India by the English. " I have twice failed in my negotiations with this woman," said my old friend, " and I could not humi- liate either myself or the British Government by trying a third fall with her. You are a new hand, and may be more successful ; but I advise you to be very cau- tious, for no one is to be trusted in Shorapoor, where the people, though outwardly civO. enough, are at heart treach- erous savages, and you would not be safe among them." This was not encouraging. I remained two days with my friend ; but the more I heard and the more I con- sidered, the more the business seemed hopelessly in- volved. His views were convincing enough. He main- tained that had he been at first supported by a regiment, with other forces at hand in case of need, all would have been arranged quietly without firing a shot ; but he was quite hopeless of my success now, as more mer- cenaries had already joined the Eanee, and the Beydur militia were at her entire command. He showed me, too, a letter from Colonel Tomkyns, part of which ran thus — " If Taylor settles this matter without troops, he will be a cleverer feUow than I take him for 1 " Not flattering, certainly, but quite enough to put m6 on my mettle ; and I had formed a little plan of my own which I longed to test. Next day I was at Shorapoor. It was a grim place to look at, certainly : a mass of granite mountains rising abruptly out of the plain, and though apparently several miles long, had no connection with any other range. 136 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vn. My tents were pitched in a pleasant tamarind-grove close to a suburb, and I was told that the town was over the brow of the hill before us, and lay in a hollow between the highest part of the range to the east, and a somewhat lower portion to the west. I found two companies of my old regiment, the 6th, and a few cavalry, as my escort. About mid-day I was visited by Eajah Fid Naik, who brought his nephew, the little prince, with him, several members of his own and the Eanee's family, and a banker named Luchmangeer, a Gosain ; and I read out the letter from General Fraser, which announced my mission, and in which he hoped that the measures of Government would be adopted without further delay, and recommended all parties to sink their diEferenoes in the common good of the State. I then warned them of the fate of many other States which had from time to time rejected and opposed the Government, and had perished under their own eyes, and entreated them not to be over confident, but to be very carefuL The Eanee's brother formed one of the audience, and seemed very attentive. I told him that as Pid Naik had been selected by Government, no other could be admitted as regent ; and after the warnings Captain Gresley and I had both given, any opposition to these orders would be considered rebellion, and without doubt would be dealt with as such. I could see, however, that Pid Naik had no party, and that to set him up and puU the others down was almost a desperate matter ; and I nearly inclined to Captain Gresley's opinion that force would be necessary. I requested that all the officers of the State troops, and the heads of the Beydur clans, might be sent to me 1841-42.] TEIENDLY ADVANCES. 137 next day, that I might explain to them the views of Government ; and to my surprise they came to a man — about a hundred of as wild-looking fellows as I ever saw — and were introduced to me one by one, by one of the State officers. Pid Naik stayed away, and I was glad he did not come. I spoke to them for some time. A few grew violent, and swore they would acknowledge no authority but the Eanee's, and would fight for her and Chun Busappa to the death. Others were quiet, and, I thought, de- termined ; and some appeared irresolute. I had done enough for that day, and dismissed the whole assembly with the ceremonious gift of atr, and betel-leaf, and a garland of flowers. " You treat us with respect," said one of the jemadars or officers, " and we thank you for it." " I always treat my friends with the respect I hope to receive myself," I replied ; and I believe this simple act of courtesy at least softened many. Next day I went to return the visit of the little Rajah, and to submit my demands to his mother. If I had listened to all the warnings I received, I should never have ventured at all. Many, I was told, had vowed to make an end of me : the town was fall of the Beydur militia, who had sworn to turn me out of Shorapoor, and the like. I had to ascend by a roughly-paved road, about 400 feet, into the city, which appeared weU built and well populated, lying between portions of the rocky range which varied from 400 to 500 feet in height. Being completely screened from without, it seemed, as it had been described to me, a very stronghold of freebooters. I was politely received in the outer court of the 138 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, vil palacg by the little Kajah, where a great crowd of armed men were assembled, and then led into another court, and through a passage into a third, well built of red brick, and of two storeys. It contained two open halls, neatly covered with white cotton cloths, with large piUars at intervals. The little Eajah, who was a delicate-looking though cheerful boy, was by no means disconcerted, and asked me many questions pleasantly, and at last invited me to come and see his mother. She was in the next room, and sat at the door behind a bamboo screen — through which, however, she could see me, though I could not see her. She spoke neither Hindostanee nor Mahratta ; but I had a good interpreter in one of the members of the family, who had been at Hyderabad, and was quite a gentleman. For a time she spoke very pleasantly, and the little Eajah had, of his own accord, come to me, and was sitting in my lap. "See," said the Eanee, "my son has gone to you, as he never did to his father, and now you must be father to us all." This speech led the way to business ; and when I told her it would be far from wise to pull her own house about her ears as she seemed to be doing, she repKed, in the most innocent manner possible, "That she was quite unaware of having offended any one, and could only look to the British Government to protect her and her son, as it had already done for several generations." We talked for four hours without ceasing, and at last I handed her a paper, in which I had embodied my demands. 1st, To give an account of the revenue for the last three years. 2d, To give over the Eajah's seal of office. 1841-42.] INTERVIEW WITH THE LEADERS. 139 3d, To make over all the armed men to Pid Naik. This sadly bothered her, and she was as slippery as an eel ; but it would not do. I said I would not leave her till I had her determination from her own mouth ; for I had no faith in letters or messages, and I doggedly kept my seat. This did good : for, though arguing bravely, the Eanee was driven from her positions, one by one, and at last agreed to all my demands. Would she keep to her word? That remained to be seen. The only ob- jection which I thought was a reasonable one was about the seal, which, being the Eajah's, could not be used by his Minister ; but, as she suggested, a seal of regency might be engraved and used. After this interview was over, I walked to Pid Naik's house through the crowd outside, and saw his three fine boys and two girls, while his wife sent me a kind message. He appeared more hopeful, and thought we were getting on. Next day the leaders of all the armed men came to me again by appointment, and I requested they would at once give me agreements to serve Pid Naik and not the Eanee. How I had to argue and coax by turns, I can hardly describe ; but at last one came over to me, then another and another ; but some remained uncon- vincfed and went away. I then wrote to the Eanee ; and, after a day's inter- mediate delay, she sent me about 400 men — those on whom she could least rely — and I made them over at once to Pid Naik. The Eanee now began to see that she must either come down quietly or be pulled down, and in two days more I had secured 600 men. But still I was not satisfied. The Beydurs had not come to me, and I was very 140 STOBY OF MY LIFE. [chap. to. anxious about them, as they were the representatives of the 12,000 milita, and the Eajah's body-guard, on whom the Kanee had lavished much money. I also had much anxiety respecting the garrison of Wondroog — a very strong fort, about ten miles o£f, in which there were 300 picked men. On the seventh day after my arrival I had secured 1400 men in aU. The last 700 were Beydurs, as fine and bold a set of fellows as ever were seen, well armed with sword, shield, and match- lock. " TeU us," cried their leader, " are you going to make PidNaikEajah?" " By no means," I replied. " He will only be Min- ister. Your little Eajah is my son, and I will put him on his throne with my own hands before I go." " And you give us your word about this? " they asked. " Certainly I do," I cried, " and the word of the Brit- ish Grovemment." "Enough!" was the general shout. "And now put your hands on our heads, and we wiU be your obedient children henceforth." Then they crowded round me, and I placed my hands on a number of heads, many prostrating themselves be- fore me, some weeping, and all much excited. I had sent for baskets flill of wreaths of flower^ and betel-leaves, and I gave each of the leaders a garland, hanging it about their necks myself, while my attend- ants distributed the same to the others. As they filed down before me, each division gave me a hearty cheer : " .Jey Mahadeo Baba ! " — the old cry of Golcondah ! How had they learned it? I confess it moved me deeply. No fear now, thought I ; and I was right, though 1841-42.] CHUN BUSAPPA SURRENDEKS. 141 there were some trials yet to undergo. All these men were sadly in arrears, and I took np money sufficient to give to each two months' pay. I did this solely on my own responsibility ; but I saw the necessity, and felt sure I would be supported by General Fraser. That evening they went of their own accord and made salaam to Pid Naik, who could hardly believe his senses when he saw them. The day after, all the horsemen of the State came to me. They had Chun Busappa in their charge to protect him from me, but promised obedience like the rest. I saw it was the time to de- mand him at their hands. To this most of them de- murred, as they were on oath to the Eanee ; but they said, " Though as a point of honour they could not give him up, yet they would have nothing more to do with him." Next day the Eanee's agent came to try to get a pro- mise of probation for Chun Busappa ; but he found me utterly obdurate, and I suppose he went and told him it was no use resisting, for in the afternoon Chun Busappa himself came to me alone, and threw himself at my feet, making no conditions. " He had now no protector from his enemies," he said, "and submitted himself to me to be dealt with as I pleased." I had now been at work ten days, and hard, anxious work it was. So far, I had carried all my measures. My proceed- ings were entirely approved of, and I received almost daily private letters from the General, which were very encouraging ; but I have kept no copies of them, nor, indeed, are they needed here. I had not, however, by any means, done with the Eanee yet. After my first flush of success, her party 142 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vu. again assumed formidable dimensions, and I feared might incite her to fresh opposition. I had only my- self to rely upon, for Pid Naik was utterly useless and helpless. I did not relax in any of the demands which I had made, for which the Eanee alone was responsible, having collected the revenue for many years ; and find- ing I would not give in, she sent to me to say she was preparing bills for a lakh of rupees. These were, however, so long in making their appear- ance, and there were so many evasions and excuses for which I could not account, that I grew more suspicious, and discovered at length that Chun Busappa, who was in my camp under surveillance, was sending the Eanee private messages to delay ; that I " should soon be turned out, as Captain Gresley had been, and that I had no force at hand to use in case of resistance." At last the Lady sent the banker to me with an impudent message, to ■ the effect that if Chun Busappa were released unconditionally by me, and if she were allowed to have her own way in the direction of affairs, she would then pay the lakh of rupees. This was displaying the cloven foot with a vengeance, and it was evident that so long as Chun Busappa re- mained, these secret intrigues would go on. I heard, too, that she was endeavouring to incite some of the 12,000 Beydur militia to attack my camp and rescue her paramour, and my men had noticed a great number of them prowling about, and posted on the hillsides at night. I therefore determined to send Chun Busappa at once to Linsoogoor, the cantonment of the south, where he would be quite safe and kept out of mischief. One of my chuprassies or messengers knew the road perfectly, and the Krishna river was fordable. 1841-42.] A NAKEOW ESCAPE. 143 Twenty-five of my cavalry were therefore ordered to prepare for a night march ; and about nine o'clock, when all was quiet, I went to Chun Busappa, and told him he had forfeited his word, and was leading his mis- tress into fresh trouble. He did not deny the charge, but confessed the Eanee had sent him word that she would rescue him. I told him I had likewise heard the same, and that he must gird up his loins at once and mount the horse that awaited him. In five minutes more he was on his road, guarded by the cavalry escort, and reached Linsoogoor the follow- ing morning in safety. Long afterwards this man thanked me, with tears in his eyes, for having saved him, and the Eanee too, from much evil — perhaps even from death ; and told me, also, how narrowly I had escaped myself. If I had not been very vigilant, I would have been attacked by clans of the " Twelve Thousand " whom I had not seen. I wrote to my father thus : — " Great was the indignation and consternation of the Lady in the morning. She beat her head, and, as it was reported to me, knocked it against the wall, roared and cried, and then, in a violent passion, rushed into the outer court of her palace, and called upon all good men and true to help her to get Chun Busappa back again. This was the crisis that I expected, and upon it would turn everything, hostile or peaceable. But nobody stirred. Only six negro slaves loaded their guns, and threatened everybody ; but, being threatened by others, quietly fired them off, and were placed under surveillance. " Well, my Lady then was down on her marrow- bones for a few days, and my humble servant. She had 144 STORY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. Til her palankeen prepared to come and see me, whioli I declared, without my wife's presence, would be in- decent. Then began a series of sorrowful letters, with presents of partridges and quail, fruit and vegetables ; but it would not do : I must have my lakh of rupees ; and it came in two days in bills, which I very gladly despatched to Hyderabad." I now determined to discharge certain of the mer- cenaries ; and in consequence of the Eanee's obstinacy about the money transactions, the Eesident thought it would be too hazardous to attempt the measure without some backing up. The 26th Kegiment, Madras Infan- try, which was on its march to Secunderabad, was there- fore ordered to make a diversion to Shorapoor, and to await my orders. In reahty I did not want the regi- ment ; but the Eesident was more cautious than I, and thought prevention better than cure. I had no trouble with the mercenaries. Those who were needed for ordi- nary duty were retained ; superfluous men discharged, their arrears for four years being paid to them ac- cording to their amounts. I thought the garrison of Wondroog were inclined to be restive, but the men aU came into camp, — a very fine set of fellows ; and when I had inspected them, looked at their arms, and complimented them on their steadiness, I called for volunteers for a hog-hunt, and I think more than half the men responded at once : so we started, the ofScers of the 26th Eegiment joining heartily, and showed them good sport before we returned. Another very anxious crisis thus passed over ; but the Eanee said she had no more money, though her own accounts showed she had more in hand than the 75,000 rupees I had asked for, and I told her that I had 1841-42.] THE EANEE'S SUBMISSION. 145 no alternative but to attach her private estates if she remained obstinate ; and at last I did so by sending small parties of cavalry into her villages, and this so completely humbled her, that, in consideration of her having complied with the former demands made, I begged that the balance still remaining might be re- mitted. She was literally at my feet for one day : though I told her not to come, she arrived in her palan- keen at my tent, to lay all her sorrows before me. I could not turn her away ; and as she entered she fell prostrate on the ground, and placed her son in my arms. Both were weeping bitterly. She begged hard for her estates ; but as the attachment had been made at the instance of the Nizam's Government, I could not take upon myself to withdraw it, and could but assure her that I did not wish to punish her more, and that I trusted Government would be lenient in the end. The Eanee had arrived just after breakfast, and sat with me till sunset, surrounded by her women and secre- taries, unveiled, nor did she ever seclude herself after- wards. I had sent for my wife, who, with her brother, soon afterwards arrived from Hyderabad, and I selected an open spot within the walls, about 500 feet above the plain, to which we removed. The Eanee now asked permission to come and visit us, and I was glad that she should do so. She offered many valuable presents — shawls and ornaments — and tried to put a large string of pearls round my wife's neck ; so that I was obliged to tell her firmly that if she attempted again to force presents on my wife, or to talk to her about her affairs, I should be forced to forbid all communication between them. K U6 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. yn. The next day we returned the visit, and were intro- duced to all the family. The late Eajah had had three wives, and in aU there were fifteen children. Among these, one lively child, of about ten years old, became our prime favourite, and she engaged me in a game of romps, pelting me with roses, and laughing merrily. There was not the slight- est attempt on the part of any of them to hide their faces, nor was there any of the stiffness usual among native families. I soon perceived that it would be necessary to lose no time in placing the young Eajah on his guddee or throne, that he might be publicly acknowledged. My reason was this. For some years after her marriage, the Eanee had had no male child, nor had any of the other wives. In fact, the late Eajah had formed two other marriages, in hopes of having an heir. If there were no male heir born to him, his brother Pid Naik naturally succeeded ; but Pid Naik declined succession for himself, and put forward his eldest son for adoption, who had been generally acknowledged, although no ceremony of actual adoption took place. However, when hope was nearly at an end, the Eanee had a son, and Pid Naik's son was thrown out. It came to my ears that Pid Naik, encouraged by his boon com- panions at his drinking-bouts, had said that " now he could do as he pleased, and had the ball at his feet, and he would show them all so after I had been withdrawn." In any case, whether this were true or not, he was very cool about the ceremony of placing the young Eajah on his guddee. He made many excuses. It would cost a great deal of money ; the Beydui- clans must be brought together, and he was by no means sure of them ; an 1842.] THE CEREMONY. 147 auspicious day must be selected, and was far distant, and the like ; and if anything went wrong, he would get the blame. However, I simply told him I had received orders from the Supreme Government to pro- ceed with the ceremony on the earliest possible date, and according to the rules and customs of the family on such occasions, and that it must be done forthwith. And so it was. Arrangements were made of all kinds. There proved to be enough money in the treasury to pay the expenses of the ceremony. Invitations were sent to the neighbouring families and people of rank, and the State observed its usual profuse hospitality to all, and its charitable doles to beggars, dancers, jugglers, acrobats, &c. ; and for three days previous to the cere- mony, the feasting was perpetual. Finally, when all the Hindoo rites had been concluded, I took the little Eajah, who had been sitting close to me, as his mother had implored me not to allow him out of my sight, and leading him to his guddee, or cushion of embroidered velvet, placed him upon it in the name of the Govern- ment of India and the Nizam. " Whoever," I said to the crowds about us, " is the friend of your Rajah Enketappa Naik " (and I added his titles), " is the friend of both Governments ; and who- ever is his enemy is our enemy, and will be dealt with as he deserves. The British Government will protect your Eajah and his interests till he reaches his majority, after which his possessions will be made over to him. It is, you see, a long journey to travel : some will faint and fall by the way — some will fail ; but in the end, if ye are aU of my mind, ye wiU joyfully repeat this cere- mony." Then followed great clapping of hands, and again the 148 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [cHip. vn. old cry, " Jey Mahadeo Baba ! " and afterwards the dis- tribution of pan and atr, with handsome shawls and dresses of honour, according to degree. The ceremony being ended, the little prince rose, and thanked all present in, for his age, a very dignified manner ; and I took him back to his mother, who embraced him pas- sionately. Whatever the Kanee may have been, there was no question that her love for him then was devoted, and that she was very grateful to me. " This would never have taken place but for you," she said to me, as she embraced my wife, who had been with her all the afternoon. " What can I give you ? — how can I thank you both ? My child is in truth yours, and you must guard him henceforth as a son." We submitted, as a matter of form, to be enveloped in rich shawls, and soon afterwards took our leave. Pid Naik had accompanied us to the entrance of the inner court, but it was not etiquette for him to proceed fur- ther, and he waited for us and went with us to our tents amidst firing of guns and noisy music. So far, I hoped I had done my duty, but I felt uncer- tain as to the future, for no definite position had been assigned to me as yet. Ud CHAPTER VIII. 1843-44. Acting on instructions eventually received, I endeav- oured to put forward Pid Naik as much as possible as head of the State, and to make arrangements for giving the young Bajah such a sound practical education as would best fit him for the future management of his country. Pid Naik was, however, helpless and incom- petent, and seemed both unwilling and unable to assist. He gave himself up to fits of intoxication, from which no one could arouse him; and although, when sober, he promised amendment, the vicious habit increased. During a visit to Hyderabad, I discussed the afiairs of Shorapoor with the Eesident, who desired me to pre- pare the draft of a letter in English and Persian, embody- ing the wishes of the Governor-General. I did so, and in it my position was declared to be supreme, and that of Pid Naik executive, and much sound advice was given him as to the conduct of his afiairs. As soon as I returned to Shorapoor, Pid Naik paid me a visit. Everything had gone on smoothly during my absence, and I complimented him upon all he had done. I then delivered to him the Eesident's letter, and he sent away his crowd of attendants and followers in order 150 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, viil that we miglit disciiss the subject unrestrainedly be- tween us. It had been left optional to him to accept the orders of the Governor-General or not, as he chose ; and I was ready to transmit his wishes, whatever they might be, whether of entire and hand fide acquiescence in the orders issued, or his objections to them, as he pleased. If he acquiesced, it would be my duty and care to make the execution of these orders as light and pleasant to him as possible ; but if he objected, I could only trans- mit any letter or paper that he might give me. He said his honour and reputation were in my hands, and he would think over the letter from the Eesident, and give me an answer as soon as possible. This he did ; and the reply, when it came, was quite satisfactory, and expressed his desire to work faithfully with me for the good of the State. Between us we made out a bud- get of the State revenues for the year, and I found that we might have 240,000 rupees, out of which the local charges would be 100,000, leaving 140,000 for payment of tribute and interest, with a balance to go on with. A few days after this interview there happened a dis- agreeable affair in Shorapoor. One of my chuprassies, or messengers, was buying some grass in the market-place from a Beydur woman, and was badly wounded by an armed Beydur standing near. Whether my chuprassie had insulted the woman or the man, or whether they quarrelled over the price, I never knew ; but he was never accused of having done so. I had just set out from my house to ride up to my new works on the hill, and had turned into the market-place, when I saw the ' Beydur run off, brandishing his bloody sword ; and after procuring what assistance I could for my wounded chuprassie^, I went after the Beydur who had cut him 1843.] A DISAGREEABLE AFFAIR. 151 down. I met him in tlie main street, and ordered him to give me up his sword, which, strangely enough, he did at once (I had only a slight riding-whip in my hand), and teUing my prisoner to go before me, I took him to the palace guard, and gave him in custody to the men on duty there, to be kept safely until Pid Naik, who was out shooting, should return. I then rode on towards my new buildings, and returned shortly before sunset. It was still quite light as I rode back into the town, and I found a crowd of armed men before the palace gate, shouting and much excited. The first idea that occurred to me was that there might have been some collision between my escort of twenty infantry and the Beydurs ; but I had sent my people word to remain quiet, and they had done so. As soon as I appeared I was surrounded in an instant on every side, so that it was impossible for my horse to move one step, and the shouting and pecuUar shrieking of the Beydurs were indescribable. Many matchlocks were pointed at once close to my body ; and I saw one fellow's match pressed into the priming-pan by the trigger twice, and grains of powder igniting on the end of it each time it was withdrawn. For a moment I gave myself up ; but, by the mercy of God, the piece did not go off. Drawn swords were also brandished close to my face, but no blow was made at me ; and the whole passed in less time than it takes me to write. At that moment several men ran out of the palace gate, one of whom I knew to be the Eajah's own body- servant. He pushed through the crowd, struck up the matchlock then touching me, and calling out to the crowd, pushed them aside right and left, telling me not 152 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. toi. to be afraid. He then accompanied me to my house, where I found my escort under arms and much ex- cited. The Eanee sent me word that both she and the Eajah would come to me at once, if I would allow them, and stay with me ; or would I come to them ? But there was no need now, though I felt in my heart I had nearly tasted death. The men of my escort were very savage ; and it was as much as I could do to prevent their marching to the palace court and taking the offending Beydur into their own custody. Pid Naik shortly after arrived in a terrible fright, and offered to stay with me aU night ; but I felt no further alarm. The Beydurs, however, went to the palace guard at night and carried off the prisoner to the hills. He was a champion among them, a wrestler and athlete, and had the appellation of " Bich Kuttee," or " Thrower away of the Scabbard." In the morning all the clans of the " Twelve Thou- sand " were found to have gone out upon the hills, where they were shrieking, blowing horns, and beating their drums all day, vowing they would not surrender the man unless they had a guarantee from me that his life would be spared. A row with the Beydurs would have been very seri- ous, and I was determined not to have one if I could help it ; at the same time I was equally determined not to give way an inch. Pid Naik was in a desperate fright; but I would not allow him to give in, and he obeyed my orders, insisting that the prisoner should be sent back to him. By evening the Beydurs grew tired, and made over the prisoner to Pid Naik, who forthwith put him in irons, at my suggestion, though he was more than half 1843.] CONDUCT OF THE BEYDUKS. 153 afraid of his own people. I daresay they did not like it ; but it was no time to show the white feather. Hav- ing waited for a day to see that all was qniet, I urged Pid Naik to make the Beydurs bind themselves down by strong bonds to behave quietly for the future. At this they took fresh alarm ; but they did not go back to the hills, and I knew my game was safe ; and so it proved in the end. I made known to them that I would take no further steps in the affair until the issue of the wounded chuprassie's case was known ; and I was very- glad for all parties concerned that he seemed going on well. I sent them all away, with a present for the wife and family of the imprisoned Beydur, as it appeared they subsisted entirely on the fruit of his labour, and all seemed satisfied and happy. I daresay my chuprassie was a good deal in fault — for he was a bit of a coxcomb, and no doubt had given him- self airs — and I only put the Beydur in irons in order to make an example. A few weeks after, on the occasion of the " Dussera " — a great anniversary festival of the Hindoos — the head men of all the clans of the " Twelve Thousand " came to me with a very humble petition on behalf of the Bey- dur still in confinement, and said they would esteem it a direct favour if the man were released to them. They were ready to make any agreement or bond with me, and to obey me implicitly in all things. My chup- rassie had nearly recovered from his severe wound ; at all events, his life was no longer in danger from it : and as he too joined in the request that his assailant should be forgiven, and the young Kajah, Pid Naik, and his brothers, and other influential persons, backed up the petition, I saw no reason to refuse. By con- 154 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vni. senting, I had a fair hope that this hitherto utterly- lawless and uncontrollable body of men might be brought under some kind of subjection for the future. I therefore complied with their request, and' the Beydur prisoner was released before them. He came blubber- ing to me, falling at my feet and begging pardon. He then prostrated himself before my chuprassie, who also forgave him. But I had impressed upon Pid Naik the necessity of requiring from aU the heads of the clans much more stringent and more formal engagements than they had given before, which, it now leaked out, they repudiated as irregular and not binding. At the first hint of what was intended, the Beydurs took fright, but they did not go back into the hills ; and after a consultation among themselves, under their great tree of assembly in the centre of the town, they gave in, and professed themselves ready to do as I wished. The agreements, which contained several clauses, were drawn up by me. They secured to the clans aU heredi- tary lands and privileges, but made me, as the chief authority in the State, supreme judge in criminal cases, and in any other trials which could not be settled by their own punchayet (court). My drafts were copied by their own chief registrar, and signed by him, and by all the chiefs, and many others. When the agreements were ratified in all respects, I held a court, and the papers were presented to me formally, and I crossed hands over them with the chiefs of every clan. It was a very anxious period, and the complete success of the afiair was a very great relief to me. General Fraser, too, had been very anxious ; for any disturbance among the " clans of the Twelve Thousand " would have been most embarrassing after what had at first occurred. 1843.] TOUR INTO THE COUNTRY. 155 However, in the end he was satisfied that I was in reality now stronger than ever. Several years afterwards, I heard the truth of the whole affair, and I was thankful I had not known it at the time. The plot had been originated by Kishnaya, Pid Naik's especial favourite and boon companion, whether with his master's knowledge and connivance or not I cannot say ; but Pid Naik was, whether acci- dentally or on purpose, absent that day on a hog-hunt- ing expedition. The plan was this : One of my men — any one — was to be quarrelled with and cut down by the Beydur champion, on which it was presumed that I would im- mediately attack the Beydurs to recover possession of him, and thus a general miUe would ensue, in which I would be made away with. The scheme, I daresay, seemed perfectly feasible, for no blame would have attached to any one, except, perhaps, myself. But, through God's great mercy, I escaped. As soon as I could leave Shorapoor after the Dussera festival, I determined on making a short tour to see the country and become acquainted with the rural popula- tion, and also to give directions concerning the first settlement of revenue. I had, too, some cases of border raids and robberies of cattle by Beydurs on the northern frontier to inquire into and adjust. I found that for generations past no notice had ever been taken of such depredations by the Eajahs, and the issues had been left to the strongest. This, however, would not do now. I found that, wherever the land was under cultivation, the crops were, for the most part, very fine, but that there was comparatively little under tillage, when the large areas of village lands were considered. For these 156 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. viii. the people were clamorous for leases. I was obliged to teU them at present I could do nothing, but that I hoped to return as soon as I could. Meanwhile I was picking up all the information in my power, in my rides over village lands. There was plenty of game everywhere, and my bag was generally weU filled ; the people were exceedingly well-disposed and civil, and my time was passed very pleasantly. In November I received official notification of my promotion : — " Captain Meadows Taylor, 6th Nizam's Infantry, is promoted to the rank of ' Captain Commandant,' with efieot from 7th July last, vice Doveton resigned the ser- vice. Captain Commandant Meadows Taylor is posted to the 7th Regiment, but wiU continue in charge of the affairs of Shorapoor." I was therefore secure of a regimental command in case of any alteration in the arrangements at Shorapoor. I returned there about the middle of November, and was distressed and vexed to find that Pid Naik had been at his old work, drinking very hard. " I find," I wrote to my father on the 22d November, " Pid Naik is seemingly on his last legs, morally and physically. He looks very shaky, and has been seriously ill, after some days of beastly drunkenness ; and I am sure more will follow when I leave again. " I had to counteract endless petty schemes and dirty tricks. ' Who is the man who prevents these ? ' said his Brahmins ; and he replied — " ' Ah, it's all very well for you ; your knuckles are not rapped : it is only mine.' " I would not be put off with excuses that so-and-so had peculated or intrigued, but would only exclaim — " ' Tou are the executive, and you have full power to 1843.] A HOLY BEAHMIN. 157 check all irregularities. If I did the work myself, yoii would grumble, and I look to you. Why cannot you go on comfortably, and in a broad, straight road with me? You know you always suffer in the end. Why are you so foolish ? If you want money, say so — come and ask for it. The treasury (for I had established one with some difBculty) is not yours or mine ; it belongs to the State. You can have what you require for State purposes ; but do not steal from it, or allow cheating.' " Personally we are very good friends, and now and then he really does some trifling business ; but where the State moneys are concerned, he has no idea of hon- our or principle. He has not been seen for the last two months in public, except when he has come to visit me ; and the people whom he employs have largely increased their power. Here is an instance of what goes on : — " A learned man and very holy Brahmin who returned from the annual pilgrimage to Trippetti, and had charge of the State funds and expenses there, was asked to send in his accounts ; and when examined, a debt of 2500 rupees (£250) was proved against him, which I directed he was to pay — and he promised to do so in fifteen days. This caused a very great sensation. " ' So great a Brahmin ! so holy a Shastree I That he should be made to pay ! ' " ' Why not ? ' said I. ' Has he not cheated the State, and Trippetti also? and, moreover, acknowledged to having done so?' " ' Oh yes,' was the reply, ' but he is a Shastree, and has spent it at the shrine of Sri Ballajee.' " ' So much the better,' say I. ' But Sri Ballajee is just. He did not like the stolen money, and he sent the Shastree back to pay his debts ' ! 158 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. vm. " ' Ah, truly, that may be the case,' said a knowing old clerk ; and after a very long discussion, the assembly finally gave it as their opinion that I had hit the right nail on the head. " Pid Naik had, I knew, been offered 500 rupees as his share of the spoil, if, indeed, he had not already bagged the money ; and he not only proposed that no demand should be made against the Shastree, but that he should be given another 500 rupees, as a mark of approbation ! " As soon as I could leave we went out again into the districts, and I began my work in earnest through the country. I found the people very distrustful at first, and I was not surprised at it, as their own Government had never kept faith with them at any time ; and it was but natural that they should be suspicious of me. " How do we know," they said, " that your agree- ments with us are binding ? " and I replied — " I shall inquire into your condition before I sign your leases, and I shall visit your villages and look into your accounts ; and, moreover, I give you my word, the word of an English gentleman, which cannot be broken." " But you may go away ? " " If I do, another will succeed me." " Well, we shall see. If you keep faith with us for one year, we mil take heart, and cultivate all the waste lands in the country.'' I arranged three small counties ; the rent had been only 2000 rupees a-year — it would now be upwards of 3000 rupees, and hereafter would produce 8000 on the new leases. I was beginning to see my way ; 1844.] A DISHONEST PATELL. 159 and as we approached the Bombay frontier, farmers came in numbers, asking to be allowed to settle and take up new land, as much as I would give them. Of course I made no objection, and they became registered landholders. The people came in crowds wherever we encamped. I have had a couple of hundreds about my tent, and they seemed much interested and amused by our ways, which of course were quite new to them. It pleased us to see the confidence they had in us ; and they con- stantly brought some little gift as token of their friendly feeling. I felt very thankful for all this. I never worked harder or felt stronger in my life — sleeping soundly, and eating heartily, and the climate was delicious. Sometimes very amusing scenes took place when gross peculation and roguery were discovered. One was in reference to the patell, or head of the vil- lage at which we were encamped, " Kembavee." This personage had a fine estate and farm of 2410 heegahs under excellent cultivation. Some of it was a free grant for services performed by his forefathers ; but by the original deed of grant he was to pay 1600 rupees, or £160 a-year for the whole. The land was all under rich crops of jowaree or large millet, wheat, cotton, linseed, and pulse. The patell had been paying only 600 rupees a-year for the last sixty-eight years ! and had the assurance to ask me for a remission of 200 rupees out of the 600, as some of his crops had failed ! This led me to examine into the case carefuUy, and to go over the whole property, and we rode over liter- ally miles of fields, which were far more like 10,000 heegahs than 2410. Of course I gave no remission. 160 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. vni. and the patell voluntarily agreed to pay his full rent of 1600 rupees next year if I would not charge him for arrears ! Here is also another instance. The patell of a village near asked me to come and look at his land, as the crops had dried up. I told the people to meet me on their boundary at sunrise, and I went. The crops were certainly poof; but I said, "In the Company's territories no man has more land than he pays rent for, therefore remissions are allowed. You seem to have a great deal more than you write down, suppose we try one field ; " there were in it about 15 heegahs of wheat, the same of linseed, the same of pulse and cotton — all very fine ; and a patch of jowaree, poor and dried up. Altogether, by pacing it, it appeared to me 90 heegahs, of the best quality, and all well tilled. " How much do you pay for this piece ? " I asked ; but there was no answer. One fellow nudged another, but no one spoke. I asked a second, and a third, with the same result. At last a fine old soldier of the village, a Mussulman, spoke out. "Please your lordship," said he, "^e patell pays two rupees (four shillings) for it per year." " Two rupees ! " cry I. " patell of bad destiny, two rupees for all this land ! Say, how much am I to remit out of that ? Are you not ashamed of yourself to enjoy all this land for two rupees ? Now let me see more of your fields." "They are all the same," cried the sturdy soldier. "Please your highness, that patell takes all the fine land and puts off the poor land upon us poor people. 1844.] ABUSE OF POVEE. 161 paying what he chooses to the Government ; and they are all the same." " Well spoken, Khan ! " cried a chorus of people ; "it is the truth I " Looking at the honest soldier, I asked him, " Now, where are your fields? if they are bad, you shall have a remission." He drew himself up, proudly enough, and replied — " My fields were sown in the rains, and God has been good to me. I have reaped and stored the crop, and my children are eating it. I have paid my rent too, and want nothing but your favour." So I patted him on the head, and bade all the rest go and do as he had done, and I heard no more of remissions. So it was in every village ; the powerful paid no rent in comparison with the poor, and thus the revenue had been diminishing year by year. No accounts of land had been taken for fifty years or upwards ; no one had paid the least attention to the subject, and it would necessarily take some years to get to the bottom of all the defalcations, and to establish a new and honest system. Nor had even the rent which had been collected been forwarded to the treasury ; in some places half the sum, or even less, was expended on the village itself, and the balance handed over to the collector. What wonder that the revenue declined ? I went into Shorapoor on the occasion of the death of Pid Naik's wife, a good woman and much respected, and I also visited the Eanee and the Eajah, who were overjoyed to see me. I had appointed Mr MuiTay, the medical attendant attached to me, as instructor in Eng- L 162 STOKY Of MY LIFE. [chap. viu. lish to the Eajah, and I found he had made very fail progress, being able to read easy stories, and write very fair copies. I was much pleased, and told him when I came to reside in my own house I would look after him myself. He was very intelligent, and never tired of asking me questions about my country, its customs, and its people. He was also learning Persian, Mah- ratta, and Teloogoo, the language of business, and got on very well with all. I found three rooms of my new house were roofed in, and the walls plastered inside; the rest was in active progress, and I hoped all would be ready for us by the time we wished to return. 163 CHAPTEE IX. 1844. In August I took my wife to Lineoogoor for medical advice — she was ill and suffering. I had arranged to send her home to England for a time to recruit her strength, which had suddenly and unaccountably de- clined. I trusted that the means used would enable her to undertake the journey, and that the complete change would set her up. God saw fit to take her from me very suddenly at the last. Of that time I cannot write. It is many years ago, and all the scene with its sad details rises fresh before me. I tried humbly to bow to the wiU of God ; but I had lost in her not only my loving and beloved wife, but my steady, true friend, my comfort and my hap- piness ; so tender in her love, so gentle ; so firm to do right, and so keen to detect wrong. Henceforth I must be alone at Shorapoor, and work on as best I could without her loving presence and her wise, calm coun- sels, without human aid or sympathy of any kind. Well — it was a bitter grief, and it had to be borne ; so, after a very severe iUness which detained me for some time, I returned to take up my work again at Shorapoor alone. 164 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. IX. I found my house quite finished now, and looking really beautiful inside and out. What a mockery it seemed to me ! The dear presence that would have made it home to me ; the deft, skilful hands that would have delighted in making it habitable and homelike — these were at rest now, free, at all events, from future pain and suffering ; and in this thought was my only comfort. . . . Fresh anxieties were in store for me at Shorapoor. I had been hearing for some weeks past very dis- agreeable reports in relation to a conspiracy at Shor- apoor to destroy the young Eajah at the " Dussera " festival, when great crowds usually assembled. Pid Naik's favourite, Krishnaya, was at the head of this most villanous scheme. The young Eajah of Gudwall, a neighbouring princi- pality, had been shot in his Durbar with his father and brother, and their bodies had been cast out of the town. My watchful friend, Captain Malcolm, wrote to me to be on my guard, and look well to the river ferries, be- cause reports were rife that Arabs and Eohillas had moved in my direction, so as to arrive at Shorapoor at or during the " Dussera " festival. The Eanee was in the wildest state of alarm about her son, and about me ; but I had brought another company of the 6tli Eegiment with me from Linsoogoor, and I had now 170 men — quite enough, I considered, to prevent any disturbance. Very soon after the ar- rival of the troops, Pid Naik came off to see me in the direst alarm. "What was the meaning of these troops?" he asked. I verily believe that he imagined they had come for him ! And as I did not care to erase 1844] A HOKKIBLE PLOT DISCOVERED. 165 this impression altogether, I only told him thai there were reports of a dangerous and bad character afloat at Hyderabad, relative to some intrigues going on at Shorapoor, and that the troops had been sent by the Resident's orders to be ready in case of emergency and to prevent trouble ; but that no one would interfere with him, or molest him in any way, if things went well and quietly. Two days afterwards, two of Pid Naik's confiden- tial servants came to me privately, saying they had something to disclose ; I therefore took down their depositions. A sad revelation, indeed, of contemplat- ed treachery ! . They professed to have warned their master, but in vain, and therefore came to tell me, in the hope that mischief might be prevented. Evidently I had arrived just in time — the scheme was all ready to be carried out. My informants were fearless men, and gave their information clearly and unhesitatingly. In all respects it accorded precisely with Captain Malcolm's private information received at Hyderabad, and confirmed the report that both the Rajah and myself were to be put ' an end to during the coming festival of the " Dussera." I then sent for Pid Naik, and without informing him how far he was implicated, told him of the horrible plot that had been discovered, and informed him, before Captain Stoddart as a witness, that I should hold him responsible in life and person for any riot or disturbance. He did not like this at all, and pretended to be greatly shocked at the contemplated villany ; but when I told him further particulars, he seemed to comprehend the danger to himself if he did not at once exert himself to prevent mischief. He agreed to give the necessary orders, and to see that peace was preserved during the 166 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ix. procession, and in fact I think the shock quite sobered him, for I never saw him so collected or so earnest and clear-headed. The procession takes place at night, and the Eajah had to proceed from his palace to an open space about a mile off. All the Beydur clans were present, all the State soldiers, and crowds of people. I had a party of a hundred picked men, giving them orders to keep close to the Rajah. We went down to the palace about five o'clock, a rather formidable-looking party. I was on my elephant, with Captain P , who had come in from Linsoogoor ; and then my little force of picked men followed. When we arrived at the. palace we dis- mounted, and each taking the little Eajah by the hand, we led him between us to his elephant, which was wait- ing, placed him upon it, and then remounted our own. We proceeded very, very slowly, any one might have taken a shot at us that pleased ; but God protected all — the fatherless boy and those with him— -and we were unhurt. Not a word was spoken, every one was most respectful to us, and we passed on to the place where •the ceremonies were performed, under the hill whereon my house was situated. The crowd baffles description. After the ceremonies were ended the fireworks began, and were very fine ; one bouquet of two hundred rockets was superb. About eleven o'clock we returned to the palace with the Eajah, whom I restored to the arms of his anxious mother. She had been in a state of the wildest alarm and anxiety ; and of her grateful feelings when her child was brought back safely to her I need not speak here. Thus was I again, through God's great and infinite mercy, preserved through imminent danger. 18U.} PEACE ONCE MORE. 167 The next evening the young Bajah and Eajah Pid Naik came up to my house to hear the band of the 2d Regiment play on my terrace. It was a glorious moon- light night, and I had never seen Pid Naik so pleasant. In the morning, of his own accord, he sent all the treasury orders to be countersigned by me, and the accountants with all the accounts, imploring me to try and save his credit. It would have been poor spite in me to notice the past any longer. I did my best to set him upon his legs again, and I told him I intended to hold him up as long as he deserved it. The effect of all this was very successful ; the first proof of the confidence it had inspired was given me in a very gratifying visit from the heads of the Beydur clans, who came to me with offerings of flowers, begging me to forget the past, and from henceforth to consider them as my children. I took the opportunity of making them a little speech, and with good effect. I told them it had pleased God to afflict me in the loss of my dear wife, and that I had no tie now to bind me to Shorapoor, except my wish to serve their young Bajah, and to do my duty to those who had sent me there, and that it was very hard to have to bear all this anxiety and my own sorrow too. " Eelieve me of that," I cried, " and you take a heavy load from me." This touched them deeply ; they crowded around me, placing their hands on my feet and neck, and earnestly exclaiming, " They would never vex her spirit by causing me pain or anxiety." I saw my opportunity, and spoke at length. I warned them against crime — oattle-Hfting and daooity, both of which had before been considered honourable achieve- ments — and I offered them advances for trade or for 168 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ix. land cultivation to the utmost of my power. They lis- tened very attentively, and I believe I won them en- tirely ; having done so, I determined to keep them. When I had ended I offered them pan and flowers, and sent them away. Another proof of confidence in me was the increase of revenue in the contracts, the contractors having pre- viously held back to see how matters would go. They would not give Pid Naik last year's amount ; but they agreed with me for 13,000 rupees above it, which was no unwelcome addition to our finances. The crops pro- mised well, both grain and cotton, and the price of grain rose from 12 to 20 rupees a candy, owing to the increased demand. Pid Naik and I worked away at the accounts, and he could do his work very well when he was not drunk ! I also, at Pid NaiKs request, began several roads, which were much needed. I had to study road engin- eering as well as I could, and lay them out, and super- intend the whole ; those leading from the several gates of the town were specially essential. Shorapoor was a regular mountain fortress, a robber stronghold. To make it stronger than it was by nature, it had been fortified, and all the gates were rendered nearly impassable to any one except footmen by large loose stones being thrown down upon the passages to the plain. These had gradually become a horribly rough kind of pavement, so slippery and so loose that any horse unaccustomed to it tripped and stumbled at every step. No cart could have attempted to enter the town ! Pid Naik's people had been laying out a road to the river Krishna, and part of it led over a gap in the hills, rough and bad. They told him they could 1844.] MAKING ROADS. 169 not clear it, and advised him to apply to me, — hence his making this request, which had surprised me not a little. I instantly set thirty men to work, looking after them myself morning and evening. The road was now complete, twenty feet wide, and made of rotten granite, which became almost as hard as stone in a very short time. When I had completed about 1200 yards, all were delighted, and crowds came to see the wonder. " Why not carry it through the gateways ? " said some one. " Why not ? " I rejoined ; " and then no more necks will be broken on those polished stones." Pid Naik assented, and I instantly put on additional workmen, thirty-five to each gate. From the gates the roads were carried through the town, and up to the Eajah's palace, and I could scarcely get them done quickly enough to satisfy the people. This was indeed a great step in the right direction. I had high hopes now, and even dreams of a good school, public dispen- sary, and suchlike institutions ; but I was obliged to be very cautious. I wished to reach Linsoogoor in time for Christmas- day, and as I had a good deal to do before the year closed, I went out for a while into the districts, and worked very hard. From eight in the morning till eight in the evening people crowded in, and I only allowed myself half an hour for breakfast and dinner. It was weary work, neither gratifying nor amusing, — a con- stant unveiling of acts of tyranny and oppression, lying and cheating ; but it had to be done, and the more I worked the more intricate it seemed to grow. " Why," said a fellow to me one day, quaintly enough, 170 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ix. " do you take all this trouble in combing people's hair ? You only break your combs, and don't get out the tangle- ments ; the best way would be to shave it off and let it grow again, and then you could make it as smooth and straight as you please." But this was rather too severe a measure, and I preferred plying the comb with patience. During this year there was not one single complaint of border outrage or cattle-lifting, and the country at large seemed to know that such doings must cease under the new regime. The people came forward boldly with their complaints, instead of going about in armed parties against those who had wronged them, burning their stacks of corn, and perhaps wounding or vexing inoffensive people in revenge for their injuries. And so the year 1844 ended — one very eventful to me — one full of sad, sad memories, and bitter, grievous trial. Yet through all I had been strengthened and upheld by my heavenly Father to bear the burden He put upon me ; and He too, in answer to my earnest prayer, gave me courage and hope to cheer me on. I had, in some measure, succeeded beyond my hopes — I had won the hearty approbation of the highest in the land. I had gained, and was hourly gaining further, the confidence of the people ; they were more peaceful and content, improvements were progressing, trade and crops were promising. I had good health and constitution, and though often weary and sadly sick at heart, the thought that my efforts had so far succeeded gave me strength to fight on ; and somehow I had a liking for my work, and a certain pride in it, which carried me through many a difficult task. If I had not felt at times so unutterably lonely, I should have been quite happy ; but the thought of what I had 1845.] GENERAL IMPKOVEMENT. 171 lost in lier who would have cheered and supported mo, was at times almost too much to bear. The new year opened brightly enough. On my re- turn to Shorapoor I found the Kajah well and happy ; and as I had persuaded some of my friends to accom- pany me from Linsoogoor to see my house and my little State, I had quite a gay time of it. My party consisted of three ladies and four gentlemen, and their advent created quite a commotion in the town. We pitched our tents at Bohnal, a small village seven miles west from Shorapoor, where there was a very pretty tank or artificial lake, of considerable size. I had drawn out a plan foi' a sailing-boat of tolerably large dimensions, and had had her built at Linsoogoor ; and finding her quite finished, I put her on a heavy artillery - waggon, and conveyed her to Bohnal with many a misgiving, as she had been built altogether by the drawings I had given. She was now quite ready to make a start, and was put into the water on her trial trip, and I was very glad to have so large a gathering on the occasion. "We awaited the great event with much anxiety, and it was looked for by all the natives with intense curiosity and eagerness. First, out came the Eanee and all the elite of Shorapoor, to have a look at the boat, and their admiration was unbounded, and most amusing. As to the little Eajah, he was wild with delight, and hugged me with all his might for having made the boat for him. The Eanee was for being out half the day ; and once, when there was " a bit of a sea," and the little vessel was dashing through the water, throwing up the spray about her bows, she was in absolute glee. She, the English ladies, and the children went out thus with me two 172 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ix. days running, and great was the fun and merriment among us all. t It was certainly an unprecedented thing for the Ra- nee and me to be together in the " same boat ; " and it was wonderful to see how the native ladies, wild and secluded as had been their life hitherto, opened out Tinder the influence and companionship of their English sisters. Indeed, my friends told me they had imagined the Ranee a perfect tigress, and that they were most agreeably surprised to find her so pleasant and so polite. My boat had turned out a pretty thing — 20 feet keel, and 24 feet over all, a good beam, and three masts — old Liverpool ferry-boat fashion — a bowsprit and jib, topmast and sails. She was very stiff in the water, and very safe ; in fact, she worked well, and was beautifully finished in every respect, built of teak, copper-fastened throughout ; yet she had been entirely the work of two common carpenters of the country. I felt rather proud of my first experiment in ship- building ; and my boat was a constant source of amuse- ment and recreation, as, although the lake was not very large, it was sufiSciently so for an hour or two's sail in the evenings when work was done. It was about a mile across, and one and a-half long. Its depth, when fuU, was 20 feet ; but as the " Rajah " only drew 2^ or 3 feet, there was always plenty of water for her. The exclamations of the natives were very amusing sometimes. " Dear me," said one, after we had been sailing along briskly for some time, " see how that grass is running ! was ever such a thing seen before ! " "But," said another, "that hill is moving away, and there goes a tree ! Well, to be sure, it is miraculous ! " 1845.1 STATE CEREMONY. 173 And so they would go on till I convinced them of the truth. My party soon broke up. They expressed them- selves charmed with the novelty and beauty of all they had seen, and it certainly must have been a change from the dull routine and gossip of station life. In March another great ceremony took place — the first removal of the young Eajah's hair ! It is usual in some Mussulman, and most Hindoo, families, not to cut the hair of a male child until he has attained a certain age. In the Eajah's case, his father and mother had fixed the period at nine, eleven, or fourteen years of age. It had not been done in the ninth year, and the present was the eleventh, which could not be passed over ; and I was glad of it, for the boy suffered greatly from the weight and heat of the tangled and matted hair falling about his shoulders. As this was a State ceremony, I requested the Eesi- dent to allow me to bestow what was needful in the way of funds, and I was permitted to give the Eanee five thousand rupees from the State treasury, to which sum she added as much of her own, and the following is the description of the affair which I sent home : — " There was a great gathering of all classes of people to partake of the Eanee's hospitality. I don't know how many Brahmins and others were invited ; all were fed and received gifts of clothes and alms. The crowds were enormous. All the members of the family were feasted for two days, and received turbans, scarves, and other presents, and every one seemed pleased and happy. The ceremony itself took place in a tamarind- grove near a suburb in the plain on the south side of 174 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. IX. Shorapoor; tlie Eanee had had comfortable tents ar- ranged for me, and I arrived from camp in time for the beginning of it. I did not see what was taking place, as no one entered the enclosure but the Brahmins ; but the beating of kettle-drums, blowing of horns, and firing of guns, announced the ceremony completed. I was sitting with the Eanee the whole time, and she was very thankful to me for my presence there, and the assistance I had been allowed to give. "As the camp could not move into the city that night, I remained, and there was a grand nautch under the trees, and fireworks, which had a very pretty effect, the whole grove being lighted by torches, with occa- sional Bengal and blue lights. Next evening all went up to the city in grand procession — the Eajah on his superb elephant, with his little wife beside him, who had arrived from the Mysore country just in time. She is rather dark, but a pretty child about eight, with glo- rious eyes. I rode and drove another elephant, and we were surrounded by all the horsemen and foot-soldiers, and the Beydur clans. Such a scramble ! When we got into the city we were joined by others, and there were literally thousands, and all the house-tops were covered with well-dressed women and children. By this time it was dark, but there were hundreds of torches and blue lights ; and the effect of the crowds in the streets, the horsemen, and the women on the flat roofs, was very fine. It was the best procession I have seen. We proceeded to the great temple, where the Eajah and his people went to return thanks and make offer- ings. I remained as I was. I joined them afterwards, when we all went on to the palace ; and after sitting a short time in Durbar, the little Eajah told me he was 1845.] ANXIETY. 175 very tired, as well he might be — so I broke up the assembly, and took him to his mother, thanked her for her hospitality, and came away. I stayed the next day at Shorapoor, because Pid Naik was beginning his old tricks of spending money without authorisation. He complained that his people did it — they would not listen to his advice or orders ; and the latter was the truth. What could I do but preach and caution? I found the little Bajah getting on very fairly, and I send you a note of his in English as a specimen. He reads easy stories nicely ; but is best in Teloogoo and Mah- ratta, which, after all, he needs most. Would that I . could send him to England ! but that is impossible." In June I was rendered very anxious by a report from Hyderabad, apparently to be relied on, that a Bengal civilian was to be sent to Shorapoor, which was to be entirely severed from Hyderabad. This, it was said, had been resolved on by the Court of Directors. I had never received any answer to my despatches on the subject of Shorapoor management. I did not know whether what I had done was right or wrong. I could but try to do my duty to the utmost of my power, and was therefore much disappointed to find I was to be re- moved and a stranger substituted. I wrote on the sub- ject to Lord Hardinge's private secretary, and awaited the reply anxiously. At first it was unfavourable, but after a weary time of suspense, I had at length the gratification of being confirmed in my appointment by official despatches, both from H. E. the Governor-Gene- ral and the Honourable the Court of Directors. These despatches contained ample instructions and suggestions regarding the management of the State, which I was directed to communicate to Pid Naik. This, however. 176 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ix. proved a hopeless task, as his continued habits of intoxi- cation led at last to a paralytic seizure, and he became both speechless and insensible. He lived till the 8th of August, and then died without apparently further suffering. I went to visit him a few days before he breathed his last, and as he revived a little, his sons believed him to be sensible. I think, perhaps, he was conscious for a few moments, for he took my hand in one of his, while he passed the other all over my face and person, trying the while to speak, but no articulate sound came from his lips. I promised his sons, who were in bitter grief, that I would return if he revived at all ; but he did not, and passed away quite quietly. I made every arrangement for his obsequies, and for the expenses necessary for their performance ; and the morning after his death attended the funeral in full dress as a mark of respect. When I went to the house, I found the late Eajah dressed in rich garments, with all his jewels on, set out on a terrace in the courtyard, the body placed leaning against a wall, and seated on his velvet cushion of state, and his sword and shield lying beside him. The face was disfigured by paraly- sis, bloated, and under the pale hue of death was most distressing to see ; but all his retainers, many of the chiefs of clans, and friends were bidding him a last farewell, and were saluting him. When the ceremony was concluded, the body was taken up, and placed sitting in an open chair, and then, taking his two eldest sons by the hand, I led them after him, amidst the firing of guns and the wailing of the crowds all around us, to the place of cremation, where, divested of its jewels, the body was placed on the pyre, to which the eldest son applied the first torch ; and as the wood 1845.] PID NAIK'S obsequies. 177 had been thorougKly saturated with oil and ghee, or boiled butter, together with camphor and incense, it burst into a fierce blaze, and the cremation was soon complete. I remained with the boys till all the cere- monies were ended, and then conducted them home, — paid a visit of condolence to the sorrowing widow, and then took my leave. It would have been indelicate, it appeared to me, to open the subject of my succession at once; but when the first few days of mourning had expired, I held a court, in order to explain publicly what I had previously made known privately to all. There was at first some little difficulty with the heads of departments. I laid down my plan of proceeding very decidedly, and adhered to it. At first they greatly wished that the Eanee should have a voice in all that went on, and that nothing should be done without her concurrence. A few trifling orders even had been given in her name ; but I cut all this very short, and dis- tinctly stated that I would stand no sort of interference whatever ; and to put an end to all controversy on the subject, I went to visit the Eanee after my Durbar was over, and she protested vehemently, not only that she would never attempt to hinder me in any way, but, on the contrary, that she would assist me to the utmost of her power. I arranged that the State seal with my signature was to be the only authorised authority for documents in the State. The seal was a mere matter of form, as all orders, receipts, and the like, were examined during the week, and on Monday mornings were produced, and explained to the little Eajah, and sealed up in his pres- ence so as to show the people that he was in reality M 178 STORY OF MY LIFK. [chap. ix. considered tbeir Eajah, and the head of the State. The people were glad to see him put forward, and all dis- content soon subsided. Even the keys of the treasury Avere brought up every night and put under my pillow ; and those of the stores and groceries were kept by the Eanee, as she wished to have them. Another great blessing was vouchsafed to us ; a plen- teous rain fell at last, which had been sorely needed. Grain had risen in price, and I was growing anxious, for a famine seemed inevitable. The young leaves of the early grain were withering ; but still aU knew if rain fell it would sprout again. The wells were dry ; but they filled rapidly, and in a few days the grain looked green again, and everything seemed cheerful. My lake at Bohnal was now really a noble sheet of water — good two miles from corner to corner, and six feet more in depth than the previous year. As if, too, all I had endeavoured to effect had taken place at once, I heard privately from Captain Malcolm that the Nizam was about to remit the payment of four lakhs and a half, which was stiU due on the old accounts. He had seen the Minister's draft of an official note on the subject, and assured me I should soon have it ofSoially. I need not say how great a relief it would be to me when it came. I continued to pay frequent visits to the Eanee, and took her and the Eajah drives in my new carriage. Her ecstasies were very great, and her remarks most amus- ing when she was driven to places where she had never been before. I visited Eajah Pid Naik's family also very often. He had left no will, nor any directions as to the disposal of his property or estates ; and as, several times when he was sensible, he had put the hands of 1845.] TRUSTEE FOE PID NAIK'S FAMILY. 179 liis wife and children into mine before all his people, so now they all requested that I would take sole charge of their estates and affairs, and manage them for the benefit of all — and I consented. The head steward and accountant, with all their papers, were then made over to me, and so long as I had charge of their affairs, I never had trouble with any of the family. Poor Pid Naik ! with many faults he had many kindly qualities ; but he was utterly unstable, quite unable to resist temptation, and too obstinate and puffed up by the people about him to attend to orders issued by Grovemment. He fancied himself Eajah of Shorapoor, and at heart desired to gain the succession for his eldest son. Brahmins, mostly of bad character, had obtained complete ascendancy over him, and he was too weak, and too credulous and superstitious, to resist their sug- gestions. I do not think he ever went into extreme wrong but once, when, if he did not actually embrace crime, he certainly shook hands with it. The tempta- tion was great, for if the Eajah had been killed, his son would have become Eajah in his stead. Pid Naik left eight children, — six by his excellent wife Madama, one by the other wife, and another illegitimate. 180 CHAPTER X. 1846. I WAS obliged to be absent for a short time on private business, and there had been many attempts made to induce the Eanee to defy my authority, but as yet she appeared firm. She had, however, set up a new para- mour, one of the menials, and under such circumstances was not to be depended upon, and I was obliged to watch very narrowly. Not long after my return to Shorapoor a letter was intercepted by one of my Bey- durs, who had obtained it for a few rupees from the messenger that was to have taken it to Hyderabad. The writing and the seal were those of an old Brahmin of rank, who I knew aspired to be head manager under the Eanee, and the letter was addressed to one of the Nizam's confidential servants, urging him to send 1200 Arabs and Eohillas without delay. Before the copy of the letter and my report could reach General Fraser by express, Captain Malcolm wrote to me privately that 400 Arabs had actually left Hyder- abad, and begged me to stop them. I showed this letter to the Eanee in confidence, and warned her; but she protested entire innocence, and 1846.] ILLNESS OS' THE EAJAH. 181 the old Brahmin suddenly and mysteriously disappeared. I found out that my absence had been interpreted as a recall, and that the Kanee had been making profuse promises to her adherents ; but I took no notice of these stupid intrigues, which could only be stopped when they came to a crisis. The Kanee was in a queer humour, exalting her new favourite with all her might and main in the most shameless manner ; but the townspeople seemed quite weary of her profligacy, and were very gentle and per- fectly easy to manage ; but I never saw in any place, or among any natives, morality at so low an ebb among the higher classes, or such entire absence of the com- monest truth and honesty. I often felt there was no chance for the poor young Eajah among them all. I went out into the districts as usual, and got through all my routine of work just the same as the year before. On the 24th April, as the heat was very great, with scarcely any shade, and the thermometer averaging from 125° to 127°, I returned to Shorapoor. There was also another very severe visitation of cholera, and the poor little Eajah was very ill, with terrible inflamma- tion and suppuration of the glands of his neck. Native remedies had proved useless, so I insisted upon being allowed to see what I could do, and I sent to Linsoo- goor for some leeches, which I applied, and afterwards lanced the place, putting on soothing poultices. He slept all that night, and he recovered his health and strength, which had been greatly reduced ; and I be- lieve my renown as a physician was widespread. There were great rejoicings on the recovery of the Eajah, and among other entertainments a Hindoo play. 182 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. x. which I had never seen before, taken from the Bhagwat, or recitation of the poem relating to Krishna. The chief performer was a handsome young girl, who was a capital actress and singer, very richly dressed. She personated one of Krishna's wives, lamenting his absence from her. The text was all given in recitation, with here and there an air and chorus, the language Canarese, which I could not follow. One plaintive air with a chorus was excellently given, and I wish I had been able to take it down. Her acting was admirable : grief, sadness, hope, jealousy, despair, all depicted in turn, and her joy at the last when she found she had been tormenting herself for nothing after all ! Yet the whole was performed by stone-cutters, who could neither read nor write ; and the plays had been learned by rote, and were traditional in their families. Eather a curious incident occurred during this year. A Brahmin, who had been absent from Shorapoor for two years, came to me, and said that he had cast up the table of my nativity, and had brought me the result. As I had never seen or heard of him before, and as he himself wished to know whether it tallied with my own experience hitherto, I was anxious to see the paper, which ran after this manner. I had not, nor could I have, given him any sort of information as to the date of my birth or other particulars, as I did not know of his existence. From birth under the Sun's influence. Neither favour- able nor unfavourable. I was weak and delicate, some- times ill. Six years. Next under the Moon's influence. Generally good ; few crosses, and those which occurred resulting in good. Ten years. 1846.] ASTROLOGY. 183 Next under Venus. Neither good nor bad. The ordi- nary run of life. Seven years. Next under Saturn. Bad, Losses ; grief. No worldly advancement ; no wealth. Never long in the same place ; unsettled ; frequent disappointments. Eighteen years. Deduct on account of astrological months, five years two months. End of troubled period, thirty-five years ten months. Since when I have been under the influence of " Bri- hasput " or Jupiter, of whose sway one year is already nearly past, and it will continue, from its commence- ment, sixteen years. Add to the previous calculation the one year of Jupiter, and the result is — thirty-six years ; which was my exact age. The Brahmin in- quired whether that was about right, as he had been rather bothered in the calculations regarding the moon's influence, which could not be rendered with as great certainty as the others. No one here knew my age, that I was aware of ; but the result seemed to me very curious. I wished, to know how the calculations had been made ; but my friend could only explain them in Sanscrit, and this I did not understand. I sent the paper home to my father, and it afforded a good deal of interest and amusement to friends at home. The details of my daily life were too monotonous to be of general interest — one day passed like another, only varied by my daily rides and drives to look after my roads and other public improvements. My own work was, of necessity, very heavy, but pro- ceeded very successfully, as one by one the different districts were arranged on five years' leases, and the result in the immediate application of capital to the 184 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chai'. x. reclamation of waste lands was most satisfactory. The rents were regularly paid, and the crops and harvest exceptionally good, and I anticipated a very favourable balance-sheet. One instance I record, among many, which I gave in letters to my father. " The patell or head man of a large village where I was encamped had been very poor, and was thoroughly disheartened by repeated exactions. His wife, a home- ly, excellent woman, had complained to my dear wife that her husband was idle, and begged I would speak to him. ' If he wants money,' she said, ' I will pledge every ornament I have to buy bullocks.' I, however, assisted him from the State with sufficient money to set him up. This year the man and his wife came to me together, and she was the speaker. " ' God has prospered us,' she cried ; ' we have now 32 bullocks, besides cows and buffaloes ; we used to pay 32 rupees, but all our land is cultivated now, and we pay 322 rupees ; ' and there were hundreds and hun- dreds Kke him, prosperous, secure, and thankful." I was then on the right bank of the Bheema, and one day received a deputation from a large village called Sinoor, on the left bank, the estate of an officer of the Nizam's household who had charge of the royal tent establishment, and I went to them next day. The village women and children, all neatly dressed, met me, poured libations of water before my horse, and offered me flowers and garlands. A carpet was spread in the patelVs house, and I sat with the assembly for a long time, hearing accounts of how the Beydurs used to come in bodies, cut down their crops, drive off their cattle, and keep them in perpetual fear. Now all was 1846.] A PLEASANT KECEPTION. 185 secure, not a head of corn was touched, and all their distant lands were under cultivation, as well as those near to their dwellings. The same Beydurs who used to plunder them came unarmed to their weekly market, and all was peace. Many men showed me scars of sword and bullet wounds received in those affi'ays, and indeed the whole frontier must have been in a sad state. I need hardly tell you how very gratifying this visit was to me, and it was followed by many others to my frontier neigh- bours with the same result. 186 CHAPTEE XI. 1847-50. In January 1847 I lost my faithful friend and manager of one of the largest of my districts, Bulram Singh, who had been an ofScer of my police in 1827-29. He was one of the best natives I ever knew, most faithful and intelligent. The district under his charge was the worst in the country ; but he had managed it weU — had encouraged the people to increase cultivation — and had laid a good foundation of eventual prosperity. With his last breath he committed his wife and children to my care. On my return to camp I had to wait tiU daylight at a village about half-way, which I reached in the evening. The good old mother of the patell being sure, as she said, that I was very tired, had prepared a delicious warm bath for me, and a most abundant and well-cooked supper, consisting of various capital dishes of vegetables and light jowaree cakes. The family were strict Hin- doos, and did not eat meat. They had also got ready a comfortable bed, with fresh clean sheets and pillows. This spontaneous hospitality touched me very much ; and it was just the same wherever I travelled. As the Eesident had applied to me to report what 1847.] REVENUE SURVEY. 187 kind of a revenue survey would be necessary for the country, I selected a village of average size, and began a regular survey of it, field by field, partly by cross-staff and chain, and partly by prismatic compass, for I had no theodolite, and finished all, including the map, my- self; and then forwarded the whole of the papers, field- books, and registries of proprietors to the Resident, with a report. I was, however, in no hurry to begin a survey. I considered it would be time enough when the present settlement was at an end, as many of the occupants had measured out their own lands, and were becoming more and more correct. This season was the coolest I had ever felt in the Deccan. I find on the 25th February the thermometer varied from 68° to 76° in my tents, and at Poena there had been a frost. It did not, how- ever, last long, and was succeeded by gxtreme heat. In March the Eajah's youngest sister, a very pretty little girl of six years old, was married to the Kajah of Soondee, near Madras, aged twenty. He was a cour- teous, well-bred young man, and the little child was a great pet among us all, so pretty, and very fair, even rosy in cold weather, and quick and clever too. She was being educated in Teloogoo, and her favourite book was extracts from the 'Pilgrim's Progress,' which, indeed, was liked by all classes at Shorapoor, and there were occasional readings of portions of it by the Brahmins. As head of the State, and in loco parentis, I had to perform all ceremonies, except going to the temples, and others of a purely religious character. I wanted the parties to wait till the child was thirteen or four- teen, but her affianced could not delay, as he wrote to me to say he could not be installed as Eajah of Soondee 188 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl while he was single ; and as royal families of Beydurs were very scarce, he was forced to take this child. There was no use preaching in such matters, so I re- mained neutral, and allowed them to do as they thought proper themselves. The Eanee came to me for 20,000 rupees for the expenses of the ceremony ; I could but refer the request to the Eesident, who would sanction only 3000 rupees expenditure by the State, and the Eanee was very much disgusted. In May the Eajah had another terrible fever, and nar- rowly escaped death. He was brought up to my house for change of air, when a turn for the better came, and he recovered. If I could have kept him with me longer I would have done so, as the clear cool air on my hill would have renewed his strength, and he much pre- ferred being with me, as his mother's horrible profligacy and want of chastity shocked him terribly : but this he could only tell me secretly, and weep bitterly, poor boy, at the shame it cast upon him. My report for the revenue year past, 1256 Faslee, was considered by the Eesident to be " eminently satisfac- tory ; '' but it is too long for insertion here, and too full of local questions to be interesting to the general reader. The result of the accounts was as follows : — Rupees. Revenue under all heads, . . . 351,556 2 9 General expenditure — loans, advances, village expenses, ..... 245,276 11 6 Cash balance, . . . 106,279 7 3 Balances of loans and advances recoverahle, 15,124 7 Total in favour of the State, . 121,403 14 3 At last I had a lakh in the treasury ! safe after all payments, including tribute to the Nizam. 1847.] A STRANGE INTERVIEAV. 189 About this time I had a very strange interview with the Ranee. She had been ailing for some days, and reports were rife as to the cause of her illness, which were disgraceful enough. However, she sent for me early one morning, having, as her servant said, passed a sleepless night, and being very much excited and troubled in her mind. As soon as I had taken my breakfast I went to her. I found her lying on her bed in her private room, seemingly very restless and in pain, moaning incessantly, but apparently dozing. I sat down in the outer room, as I did not wish to disturb her, and the little Eajah came to me crying bitterly. " She is going to die, she says," he whispered. " She has abused me shamefully. She says I am not my father's child, and bade me go away. Where am I to go to ? What am I to do ? Indeed I am so frightened, and you are the only one I can look to. I have hidden all her shame and my own, and this is too much I I fear for my life ! " I comforted him as well as I was able, and told him I would bring his mother to reason if I could, and that if he really continued frightened, he should come to my house or go to the cottage at Bohnal. As we were speaking, I heard the Eanee call loudly — "Is he come? Is Taylor Sahib here?" I went in at once. She was still excited, and her breathing seemed oppressed. I really thought she was dying, and she complained of being " all on fire inside." I had brought a small bottle of sal-volatile with me, and asking for one of her silver drinking-cups, dropped into it what was requisite ; and when one of her attend- ants had added water, she drank it up, and fell back upon her pillows. After a time she roused herself, and 190 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl desired one of her servants to go for the purohit or family priest. i " I am dying," she said, " and must tell you all. YoTi are the head of the family and the State, and should know everything." When the priest arrived — a man I knew very well, as he was always in attendance, and one of the profes- sors, as it were, in the Brahmin Sanscrit College — the Eanee told him to bring a certain box which contained the secret papers of the house ; and when he had brought it she unloosed the key from a necklace she had on, and bade him open it. The man demurred. " These papers have never been seen by any one but my lord the Eajah, who is gone to heaven, yourself, and me. No one else knows of them," he cried ; " why should you show them to Taylor Sahib ? " The Eanee sat up straight in her bed, and glared at him. I had never seen such a look on any human face before. " Do as you are told," she cried, savagely ; " what is it to you what I do ? " The Shastree trembled all over, and without speaking he unlocked the padlock and opened the lid. The first thing I saw was a roll tied with red silk. " Tell him first about that," said the Eanee, and fell back again. " It is not fit you should hear it," said the Shastree, who spoke both Mahratta and Hindostanee fluently. "It is the Eajah's horoscope which I wrote. The moment he was bom I noted the time, and the con- junction of planets, and the result was bad." " Yes, it is bad ! " cried the Eanee, seizing my arm, as I was sitting on the ground by her bedside — " it is 1847.] A STRANGE PKOPHECY. 191 bad I All that concerns that base-born boy is bad I Why did his father die ? Why did I not strangle him with my own hands rather than let a wretch like that live to be the ruin of the State ? Yes ! he is fated to die in his twenty-fourth year, and I shall not see it ! I am dying myself, and you English have made him secure to glory in my death ! Ah yes ! he will die before he is twenty-four complete : we, my husband and I, sent that paper to Nassik, to Benares, and every- where that there are wise Brahmins ; but they all re- turned the same answer. He must die in the twenty- fourth year after birth. Is it not so, Shastree? Did we not spend a lakh of rupees over this, and it availed nothing ? " and she stopped for want of breath, her eyes flashing with excitement. "Is it not so? TeU the truth ! " " You speak truth, lady," said the Shastree, who was sobbing. " It is only the truth, Taylor Sahib ; I have tested aU the calculations, and find them exactly con- forming to the truth according to the planets. The Eajah is safe till then ; but when that time comes, how, I know not, but he will surely die. He will never complete his twenty-fourth year ! never ! never ! " " No ! " cried the Ranee, interrupting him — " he will not live ; he is the last of his race. He wiU lose his country, and all the lands, and all the- honour that the Sumusthan has gained for five hundred years. Would that he were dead now, the base-bom dog and slave ! " and then she uttered language that I dare not write. I was obliged to rebuke her sternly, and threatened to go away if she spoke so again ; but she cried the more. " Slave ! slave ! I wish he were dead, and the State 192 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl safe ! It might go to you — to the English. I would give it freely, now — now — but not to that boy ! Listen ! never go from him until he is dead — then take the whole yourself. Behold, I give it to you, and the Shastree is witness I give it to you and your children — they shall have it. Taylor Sahib ! you have been as a father and mother to me, and I have often used you very ill. I am a wicked woman and deserve punish- ment ; but listen to me — forgive me ! Never leave that boy, Enketappa Naik, till he is dead, and burned like Pid Naik — will you promise me this ? I am dying — dying ! " she paused for breath, and went on — "Now I have told you all the secret I had in my heart, do not tell it to any one till he is dead ; do you put your hands upon my neck and swear this." " I promise you I will not," I said, " on the faith of an, English gentleman," as I put my hand, with the Shastree's, on her neck. " Enough ! " she cried, " I am content. Do not sup- pose I am mad or excited, I am quite myself, only for the pain I suffer. I do not think you will care about the other papers ; they are some of the emperor's grants to our ancestry, and there are some foolish letters from chiefs in the Mahratta country, asking my husband to rise with them against the English ; but he was too wise to do that." " I wiU seal up the box in your presence and that of the Shastree with the State seal," I said ; " and I will add my own seal when I reach home ; " and to this she agreed. I sent for the seal, and the priest and I sealed up the box. There was no one else present. I had desired the Eajah to go to his lessons when I went to his 1847.] THE EANEE APPEASED. 193 mother, so he was in his private apartments. The women in attendance had been dismissed by the Eanee, so that no one could have heard what passed. I showed the Eanee the box sealed up. "That will do," she said; "keep it now yourself; it is safer with you, whatever happens, than with me. Now I am very weary, and would sleep. Do not think ill of me ; but I have only told you the truth before God ! I have given you much trouble in coming here to-day — now leave me." I went. The Eajah sent word I was to come to him ; he was learning his Persian lesson with the moonshee : as I entered he bade the man depart and leave us alone. "What did she say to you, appaf" (father), he said, anxiously ; " what is in that box ? " " Only papers," I answered ; " the papers of your house, those from Beejapoor, and the emperor, and others. Tour mother is iU, and thought herself dying. I win take care of them in future, and I have sealed them up.'' " And what did she say ? I heard her so angry." " It was not with me this time," I said, " though you know we do fight sometimes. She only told me what to do in case of her death." "And wiU she die, appaf" "Not this time," I replied ; "but she is in pain, and how it may end, who can tell ? Do not go near her at present ; she has gone to sleep, and may feel better to- morrow." I could not tell the poor boy what she had said of him. " I will send you word by-and-by how my mother is,'' he said, presently ; " and now leave me." In the afternoon they sent to me to say she was N 194 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl better, though still weak and in pain, and that she and the Eajah were playing chowsr, a kind of draughts, together. As I had much to discuss and consult on with the Eesident, and a meeting would save endless correspond- ence, I proposed that I should go up to Hyderabad, and he told me to start without delay. My journey was somewhat deferred by a heavy case which I had to dispose of relative to a large gang of robbers, whom I was lucky enough to catch, and who during the year past had perpetrated several most daring gang -robberies, attended with murder, in the Company's districts to the southward. I obtained, as I expected, great commendation for this capture, as the Bombay Government had been very hot on the matter, and very angry with their magistrates in Dharwar about their apparent neglect. It was not their fault in tlie least, as the robberies were planned by men about 60 miles northward of me, and the men who committed them had travelled at least 140 miles to the scene of their pillage. They were brinjarries, or carriers of grain, and were quietly encamped at a village about 24 miles off, trading most unsuspiciously in grain and salt. Captain Hervey — an able assistant in the depart- ment for "Suppression of Thuggee and Gang-robbery" — was lucky enough to get hold of fourteen of the gang at another encampment about 40 miles south-west of me ; and having obtained both information and confes- sions from them, sent me the particulars so as to enable me to follow up the trail. It was not easy at first to discover their whereabouts ; when I did, I sent out a strong party, and to my joy they returned with one leader and sixteen men. The other chief was absent 1847.] VISIT TO HYDEKABAD. 195 with thirteen more men on some expedition. I secured, however, their wives and families, also their cattle (295 bullocks, 438 goats) and other property, amongst which were many stolen articles recognised by the approvers. Hervey and I broke the power of this gang very mate- rially. I was anxious about the thirteen men that had escaped us, and I issued notices to all on the frontier to be on the alert in the hope of catching them on their return. I left Shorapoor at last on the 3d October, reaching Hyderabad oq the 9th. The Eesident and I discussed all our business very amicably, and he agreed with me on several material points. First, that it would be wise to delay the commencement of the survey fur a time ; next, to delay also the proposed inquiry into the Beydur lands, of which they were very jeal- ous, and it would be like thrusting one's hand into a hornet's nest ; and again, that it would be well to make a second reference about the removal of the Eanee Ishwarama. I did not, of course, teU. the Eesident of the strange scene which had taken place so recently. Since then she had been amicable and quiet ; but who could trust her ? I remained a short time at Hyderabad, and greatly enjoyed a little intercourse once more with my own countrymen and women. What a treat it was to hear some music, and to exchange ideas with men of one's own kind after the life of solitude I had led so long ! There was a grand fancy ball, too, to which I went as a " nobleman " of the Nizam's Court — a quaint simple dress of white muslin, a small green turban, a shawl and dagger, &c. I wore no beard then, and an artist from the city came and fastened a splendid one on to 19G STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xi. my chin, so as to join with my whiskers. As I spoke Hindostanee fluently, and could assume all the native manners, nobody found me out ; Captain Malcolm and I went together, he as a Muhammadan Doctor of Laws —a capital dress; and as we went with Suraj-ool- Moolk's nephew, and entered the room with him, we passed off well. It was very amusing to be spoken to by the native gentlemen as one of themselves, and to parry their questions as to where I had come from, &c. Captain Malcolm soon after left Hyderabad, and was a very great loss to me individually, and.to the people. They assembled in crowds to see him off, and accom- panied him for twelve miles out, and presented him with an address. Such a tribute had never before been given to any Eesident or Assistant. My return to Shorapoor was most unpleasantly de- layed by an accident which turned out very serious. The horse I was riding fell under me, and I was injured internally, and confined to my bed for several weeks. The Eesident was most kind — coming constantly to sit with me, and I was tenderly nursed at Mr Palmer's house. My only anxiety was about Shorapoor ; but the Eesident comforted me, saying, "If there is' any row, Taylor, I shall go down myself and act for you, so don't be anxious about your affairs.'' Nor was I, at first ; but the lady, finding my absence prolonged, began to be again very mischievous. Her paramour, Kasima, told her that my being reported ill was only a blind, and that the State afifau-s were now to be made over to her ; that I had been removed from Shorapoor, and was under the heavy displeasure of the authorities, and the like. One act of hers annoyed me excessively. I had desired the Eajah occasionally to 1848.] THE KANEE IN MISCHIEF. 197 write to me as an exercise in English. Some time elapsed, and I received no letter. I wrote to inquire the cause, and an answer came, a good specimen of hand- writing to show the Resident. The Eanee had been absent when the note was written and despatched. On her return she sent for her son, and beat him very severely with her own hands for daring to write to me and to ask when I was coming back. The poor lad was terribly frightened, and sent me word privately to come quickly, for that much evil was going on ; and he after- wards managed to write to me in Teloogoo, urging me to make haste, " for his life was not safe." The Eanee was gathering all the heads of the Beydur clans to- gether about her, under Kasima, feasting them, and giving them silver ornamenta and other presents. One day the runner who carried the post-bag was going as usual along the road when four Beydurs jumped out upon him from behind a hedge, and demanded the bag. The man would not give it up, and fought well with a stick ; but this was of no avail against the swords of the Beydurs, and the poor fellow's left hand was struck clean off, and he fell senseless under repeated blows. The bags were then seized, and were afterwards found in a lonely place, but they were empty. A large re- ward was offered, but no clue could be obtained as to the perpetrators of the outrage. I strongly suspected female curiosity was at the bottom of it, and that the Eanee wanted to find out what was said of her by me. She gained nothing, however, as I took care not to write anything about her or her doings by the post. The town was reported to be full of parties of Beydurs, going about with drawn swords ; and at an assembly a resolution was passed that no orders of mine were in 198 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xi. future to be obeyed. This resolve emanated solely from the Eanee's party ; the remainder, who were like- wise the majority, were yet, or appeared to be, stanch. I had recovered pretty weU from my severe illness, and was growing very anxious to return to Shorapoor. My detention had happened at a very awkwafd time ; but still, under God's blessing, I believe my life was saved, as had I been at Shorapoor, with no skilful sur- geon near, my life must have been in aU probability forfeited. So as soon as I could get leave I started, having first had a long consultation, with the Eesident, who was of very decided opinion that the Ranee must go — and that at once ; and that Lord Hardinge's order should be carried out. A letter from the Eesident to the Eanee was soon drafted, and troops were desired to be in readiness to march on the shortest notice upon my requisition. I reached Shorapoor on the 3d February, having been absent three months. The Eajah came out several miles to meet me, and embraced me, imploring me "not to let him go back to his mother any more." We went up together to my house. The city seemed full of armed men, but I took no notice of them ; my main object was to prevent collision between the two parties of the Beydur clans and the Eajah's personal adherents, which, if it occurred, must have led to disastrous con- sequences. The next morning I had a translation of the General's letter ready for the Eanee ; and during the night, she, anticipating being taken to task for lier proceedings, had assembled all her men in Shorapoor, and sent out orders for all those in the districts to come in"; and these were fast arriving across the hills in detached 1848.] THE INSUEEECTION SUPPRESSED. 199 parties. When my letter reached the palace, there were aboTit five hundred of her adherents outside, who rushed about the streets with drawn swords ; but hap- pily there was no collision. I sent warnings to them in vain, and so did the Eajah ; but his messengers were insulted, and all declared they would obey no orders but the Eanee's. I had posted all the trusty Beydurs inside the palace, and had sent for the garrison of Won- droog, which was stanch to the Eajah, and thus had nearly four hundred men about him. My great object was to prevent collision between the parties ; and the palace guards behaved admirably. When the rebellious party thundered at the gates, demanding the Eanee and Kasima, who were inside, no one stirred, and the Eajah controlled his people with admirable temper. As dark- ness fell the insurgents retired to a high conical hill, the headquarters of some of the clan, and consulted how to make a night attack on my house ; but I, as well as my position, were too strong for them ; and finding that but few of the country Beydurs joined them duriag the night, they sent to me for terms. I would take none ibut unconditional surrender of the leaders and their arms ; and in an hour or two sixteen of the leaders were brought to me, and the insurrection was at end. General Fraser, the Eesident, had written to me to say that he wished to come down to Shorapoor himself; and I thought he expected some disturbance on the Eanee's removal. I therefore awaited his arrival, ac- cording to the instructions I received from him, before finally sending off the Eanee. During the night pain- ful scenes had passed between her and Kasima, each reviling the other in no measured terms. He had 200 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl threatened to murder tlie Eanee, and had drawn his sword on her. The Eajah had interposed ; but Kasima said he would not give up his sword to any one but me. Accordingly the Eajah sent him to me, when he and five of his brothers placed their arms before me on the ground, and all were put into confinement. Several other leaders gave themselves up during the day ; but three of the very worst remained at large, trying to rouse the district Beydurs. However, nothing came of their efforts. In the afternoon the Eanee sent for me, and I went. She was quiet enough then, but was crying bitterly. She told me she had been behaving very ill, and that she knew I must carry out the orders of Government. She also confessed to having con- cealed valuable State jewels, &c. ; and when they were brought I sent them to the treasury. Her only hope was that she would be treated with courtesy ; and this, I assured her, would be the case. Her son's delight that this interview passed over so quietly was indescribable ; he and his little sister and brother clung to me, and I could hardly get away. On the 11th the General arrived, and I went out to meet him and bring him in. As he entered the town and ascended the hill, a salute of seventeen guns was fired from the ramparts, and a second from the guns near my house. All the officers were assembled at mj house to receive him, and a guard of honour of the 1st Eegi- ment presented arms as he alighted from his palankeen. A few minutes after the young Eajah came up, with a great concourse of people, and was duly, presented to the General by me. He was remarkably well dressed, and behaved very properly, answering all the General's questions with the ease and precision of a well-bred 1848.] DEPARTURE OF THE RANEE. 201 gentleman. All the male .members of his family ac- companied him, and also the most respectable inhabit- ants of the city, who were introduced by me, one by one ; and after sitting for a while they took their leave, and the General was left to refresh himself after his journey. The Eesident was very complimentary to me on my arrangements, and was especially struck with the suc- cess of my plan at the palace for cutting off the Ranee and Kasima inside from their adherents outside. I told him the Eanee was ready, and had agreed to go ; and he thought with me, the sooner she was off the better, I therefore went down to the palace, having previously sent on her tents and some of her baggage and attendants. I was busy for four hours, making aU final arrangements and settlements, and at last she was ready. Up to this time she had been quiet ; but of course at the last there was a scene. Her women set up a howl which was heard at my house, and she cried a great deal. She refused to see the Eajah, which I was glad of ; and he did not desire to see her. She asked me for a note to the Collector of Bellary, which I gave her. She then rose, requested me to take care of her children ; and I led her to the door of the outer court, where her palankeen was waiting. As she entered it she said, " I know this is all my own fault. Forgive me. You could not help it." And kiss- ing my hand, she closed the doors, the bearers took up their burden, and in ten minutes she was beyond the gates, the escort closing round her. I then went to the little Rajah, who threw his arms round me, saying, " He had only me now, and he hoped I would take care of him, there were so few he could 202 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xi trust." J told him not to be afraid. I had had a very- painful task to perform ; but now it was over, and I hoped we should have no more disturbance or anxiety. I then took my leave, and returned to my house and to the Resident, who had been very anxious, and shook me warmly by the hand, congratulating me that this much -dreaded event had been so quietly got over. Indeed, I had again deep cause of thankfulness for the happy issue of what might have been a fearful scene of tumult and strife. The Resident paid a return visit next day to the Eajah, and was taken to the Eanee's late apartments, where several members of the family were awaiting us. After some' conversation the men retired, and I went for old Kesama, great-aunt to the Eajah, and all the children, who came nicely dressed ; and the General took two on his knees, and was much amused by their chat. He promised the old lady to be kind to the children and the State ; and then she took the Eajah, and begged the Eesident to put him into my arms, which was done, to her infinite satisfaction. This over, wreaths of flowers were hung about our necks, atr was given us, and we departed. We went round the city on elephants, and I showed the Eesident all through it. We passed the Beydurs' large "tree of assembly," where about 1500 of them had congregated, all armed, and lining the road. I stopped the ele- phants, and the Eesident addressed them, assuring them that their Eajah would be oared for and their State also. It was now dusk, and a host of torches were lighted, and blue-lights stuck on poles preceded us. The effect was wonderful, revealing wild rocks and wilder faces, most picturesque .and startling in the fitful glare. 1848.] A VISION. 203 Next day I showed the Eesident the lake at Bohnal, explaining to him my project for enlarging it, -which he approved. He left next morning, having expressed himself most heartily pleased with aU he had seen, and saying he would write to me from Hyderabad ofScially, and in due time the despatch arrived. Lord Dalhousie had now succeeded to the ofiSoe of Governor-General, and took his seat in January, and the whole of the Shorapoor correspondence was laid before him. I was anxious for the result, and it arrived at length. It was most satisfactory. His Ex- cellency in Council expressed his entire satisfaction with the manner in which the affair of the Eanee had been conducted, and "directed" that his "approbation of the ability, firmness, and judgment " I had displayed should be conveyed to me. It was all very gratifying ; but I could not but miss more than ever the dear face that would have lighted up with loving joy and pride at my success, and I never liked to return to my beau- tiful house. Old wounds would reopen, and I longed for a kind word or a loving smile to greet me there. I determined then, however, to live out my life alone, and that I would never seek marriage with another ; and I have kept faith to her who is gone and to myself, and shall do so till I die. This determination was the result of a very curious and strange incident that befell me during one of my marches to Hyderabad. I have never forgotten it, and it returns to this day to my memory with a strangely vivid effect," that I can neither repel nor explain. I purposely with- hold the date and the year. In my very early life I had been deeply and devotedly attached to one in England, and only relinquished the hope of some day winning her 204 STOEY 0¥ MY LIFE. [oHAP. XL when the terrible order came out that no furlough to Europe would be granted. One evening I was at the village of Dewar Kudea, after a long afternoon and even- ing march from Muktul, and I lay down very weary ; but the barking of village dogs, the baying of jackals, and over-fatigue and heat prevented sleep, and I was wide awake and restless. Suddenly, for my tent -door was wide open, I saw the face and figure so familiar to me, but looking older, and with a sad and troubled expres- sion. The dress was white, and seemed covered with a profusion of lace, and glistened in the bright moon- light.- The arms were stretched out, and a low plain- tive cry of " Do not let me go 1 do not let me go ! " reached me. I sprang forward, but the figure receded, growing fainter and fainter, till I could see it no longer, but the low sad tones still sounded. I had run bare- footed across the open space where my tents were pitched, very much to the astonishment of the sentry on guard ; but I returned to my tent without speaking to him. I wrote to my father. I wished to know whether there was any hope for me. He wrote back to me these words : — " Too late, my dear son. On the very day of the vision you describe to me, was married." How quiet was everything at Shorapoor for the next two years ! No intrigue ! no suspicion I no combina- tions ! The Eajah, as he grew up, advanced in intelli- gence, and daily attended to all the current business, working with me cheerfully and well, and I had no apprehensions on his account. In July we had another visitation of cholera, and the Eajah's half-brother died of it, to the great grief of the 1850.] • IRRIGATION. 205 family. He was a very interesting and promising cbild ; but no care availed to save him. I sat up myself with him for four successive nights, and he died, poor little fellow, in my arms. I was greatly interested in the extension of the lake at Bohnal ; it was my first essay at irrigation works, and proved a complete success. I had taken careful levels of the whole of the ancient embankment, which was much higher than was necessary. I added 12 feet to the escape-weir, and took advantage of some natural hillocks beyond the weir to extend the embankment in accordance with the old portion. The lake filled in September, and was a truly noble sheet of water, 2| square miles (rather more than 1600 acres) in area, with an average depth of 12 feet. I had built a small schooner for the Eajah, and we sailed matches against each other, to his infinite delight ; he never cared how hard it blew. The despatch of the Court of Directors upon my reports for 1847 and 1848 was very cheering and ac- ceptable to me. Its length alone prevents my giving it here ; but it was evident that all I had already done and proposed to do had been well, and carefully con- sidered and approved. On the 20th May 1850, permission having been granted to her, my friend the Eanee returned ! hav- ing been away from us for more than two years. She had got terribly into debt, and had nearly been sent away from Bangalore to Vellore in consequence of her intrigues. She had been ill too ; but in spite of all, here she was again ! She stayed some days at Linsoogoor, where a house had been taken for her, and I had a very amusing 206 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl account of her most absurd demands and unreason- able requests. She wanted three good houses belonging to private individuals, who werfe to be deprived of them ; and if she did not get themj she vowed she would come up to my house and live there ! This was indeed an alarming prospect for me ! However, I, with the Eajah and all the principal people, went to meet her at the Krishna, the frontier, where the Eajah's new suite of tents had been pitched for the first time for her especial accommodation ; and as she crossed the river, we went forward to welcome her, and conduct her to her tent. She refused to enter the large one, but chose a dirty- little one belonging to her servants ; and a very stormy and disgraceful scene occurred, which, as my last illus- tration of the lady's temper and disposition, I copy from a letter written to my father, " We were all there, and after a short interval, glaring at us one by one, she burst out — " ' WeU. ! and what have you sent for me for ? ' " ' We did not send for you,' said I, and several others. " ' Yes, you did. Do you think I would have come of my own accord? You had better kiU me, and throw me into the river, or put me in the guard-house. How very proper and pleasant it will be to be in the guard- house I Why shouldn't I live in the guard ? Have you got those houses I ordered ? ' " ' No, Eanee Sahib ! ' I answered. ' The houses you ordered are private property, and you cannot have them.' " ' Can't have them ? ' she cried ; ' who are they to deny me ? Am I not Eanee of Shorapoor ? Can I not do as I choose ? ' 1850.] A SCENE, 207 « " ' No, not quite,' I returned ; ' not with what belongs to other people.' " ' No ? I can't ? we shall see,' she cried. '.Did not General Cubbon and Mr Pelly, and and and r-' (hurling at me a host of names), 'and a lot of other people, tell me I could do whatever I liked ? and yet it seems I am not to have my very &st wish gratified. Am I less than those people? Are they not my slaves ? Well ' (after a torrent of abuse), ' and where am I to go ? ' " ' To the palace, Eanee Sahib,' I replied. " ' The palace ! I won't go there ! no, not to my old place ! I won't be taken there except by force. Why don't you tie me hand and foot ? You are powerful, and I am only an old woman.' (Here the Kanee began -to whimper.) 'Put me into the river at once. I'll not go to Hyderabad, or to Bangalore, or to BeUary. I'll go on pilgrimages. I will not stay here. I won't ! I won't ! No, I won't ! ' " ' But,' I said, ' Eanee Sahib, you seem to forget that your son, the Eajah, is sitting near you ; you should go with him and me, and we will both try and make you as happy and comfortable as we can.' " ' My son ! ' she screamed. ' My son ! He is no son of mine, the base-born ! He my son ! ' and a volley of invectives followed. ' I wish he were dead ! Why did he live, and not my sister's child ? Yes ! you killed him among you, just to vex me ! ' (and more abuse succeeded, which I could not translate.) ' He my son indeed ! ' " Poor little Eajah ; how he bore it I know not : but every now and then he pulled at my coat, or squeezed my hand, and whispered — 208 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl " How can you bear it ? Come away." " I told him we would bear it as long as we could, for I was in hopes the storm would spend itself, and that she would be more, amenable afterwards ; but there was yet a very ticklish subject to introduce — viz., ber former estates, or jagheers ; she being now only dow- ager, and the young Eanee having the estates ; an allowance having been substituted for her lands. " How she raged and foamed when I told ber ! What a fierce war of rage and passion waged when I explained matters to her ! Her allowance had been fixed at a 1000 rupees a-month. She became quite beside herself when she heard this, and made use of language that made one's blood creep. The idea of pay was worse than anything. " ' Am I a servant ? ' she yelled, ' that I should take pay ? Have not other Eanees their estates ? Why do you take mine ? ' Then a fit of crying, then more abuse ; till at length my patience and temper could stand it no longer, and I fairly told her that if she did not come to Shorapoor, as she was directed and permitted to do, I should dismiss her escort, and leave her where she was. That the decision of Government could not change ; sooner would the current of the river turn and flow upward. I strongly advised her to return to Bangalore until she was in a more reason- able frame of mind ; and I ended by telling her, that if she continued so violent I should report everything that she said to Government, and that she would prob- ably get deeper into trouble. At length, at sunset, after having endured her society for nearly four hours, we left her. " At eleven at night she sent for me again. What a 1850.] BACK TO SHORAPOOE. 209 life this woman led me ! I took a relative of hers with me, a respectable man. She was restless and uneasy, said she was sorry for what she had uttered, that she had lost her temper, that she could not sleep because I had left her in anger, and had sent for me to tell me so, &c. ; and that she had determined to go to Shora- poor next day, and would do exactly as I bid her. Also she proclaimed that she intended to live pri- vately, and to have no men about her ; that they had all cheated her, and brought her into trouble. As I found her cool and reasonable, I gave her a lecture, appealing to what feelings she had, and showing her how her own evil doings had let her into disgrace and banishment, and would inevitably do so again if not controlled. She seemed to feel my words, and kept repeating, ' I have no true friend except you. Forgive me 1 forgive me ! ' " After a long talk I left her and came home to bed, tired and worried enough. Next day we all started, the Eajah riding a fine horse ; and about 3 p.m. the Eanee came to his tent, and seemed more pleased to see him. In the evening we started for Shorapoor, about seven miles, she and I in palankeens, the rest all on foot or on horseback — a motley crowd, but very numerous. The Eanee appeared in very good humour, and thanked me for having received her with so much honour. When she arrived at the palace, all the chil- dren, with dear old Kesama, met her ; but she took no notice of any one except Kesama, at whose feet she fell, praying her to forgive her, and to place her hands upon her head — which the good old lady did at once." Thus the Eanee subsided into her old palace and old associations. She had brought a poor half-caste with 210 . STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xl her, and amused herself by writing English letters to ofiScials she had known during her absence ; but as these were invariably returned to her, she addressed the Eesident with the like result. Her allowance was higher than she expected — 12,000 rupees a-year — and she professed herself content. She sent for her old friend Kasima, who came to me in much alarm. " What am I to do ? " he said. " I have had quite enough of her and of her schemes — she is a deviL" " She was kind to you," I replied ; " she had you married in state, and made her son, your prince, walk before your palankeen ; you should not abuse her. AU you have to do is to keep quiet ; " and he took my advice. When I came in from the country in August the lady was very quiet, and returned my visit, bringing some of the children with her, and staying nearly all day amusing herself in my garden ; but I found her chief object W^as to present me with a schedule of her debts ! These amounted to 62,000 rupees, and there were more behind. I had no authority to pay any such sum, which had been borrowed by her chiefly in Mysore ; and whether permission would be granted for the pay- ment of these debts or not I could not tell. Eventually 500 rupees a-month was deducted from the Ranee's allowance to give to her creditors, a decision which set her frantic ; and she announced her intention of appeal- ing to Parliament, thoiigh utterly ignorant of what that tribunal was, or where 1 211 CHAPTER XII. 1851-53. A COPY of a despatcli from tlie Court of Directors reached me in December. It was most satisfactory, and reviewed the transactions of 1847-48. It was full of honourable commendation, which I need not here repeat ; but the State had made great advance since then in material prosperity, and I was glad to have an opportunity of showing it to Major Johnston, then military secretary at Hyderabad, and he promised to write to Sir Henry Elliott, at that time secretary with the Governor-General, and to tell him all he had seen, and about the improvements in progress. I found the Eanee very ill and miserable — she had had a stroke of paralysis that had affected all her left side, and more particularly her face, which was now hideous ; and there was little doubt that dropsy had set in, in addi- tion. The apothecary who had charge of the public dispensary and hospital did what he could for her, but had a very bad opinion of her case. In March my public report for the year past went in, and was reviewed by the Kesident, General Fraser. He was perfectly satisfied ; and on the report of Major Buckle, engineer-in-chief at Hyderabad, sanctioned my 212 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xil estimate for the new tank at Kuchaknoor, near Bolinal. Major Buckle had great experience in irrigation works in the Madras Presidency, and was kind enough, dur- ing one of my visits to Hyderabad, to instruct me in the principles of the construction of dams, sluices, and the like. I had put these instructions into practice, and sent up all the estimates, with survey, plans, and sections, for this new work. I was very anxious to complete it, if possible, during my stay at Shorapoor. It would be of considerable magnitude— the dam 1872 yards in length; the greatest depth of water-storage 50 ft. ; the average of the whole basin about 20 ft. ; and the area of water 6J square miles. It would be a noble sheet of water, and very profitable, as it would irrigate upwards of 10,000 leegahs of rice. As soon as my estimates were sanctioned I began the work, and the Eajah opened it with aU due ceremony, turning the first sod, and carrying the first basket of earth. During my wanderings over the Shorapoor district in this and former years, I had discovered, in many places, cairns and dolmens, some of them of very large size, corresponding in all respects to similar monuments in England, Brittany, and other places. I mistrusted my judgment in regard to them for a long time : but at length I drew up a paper on the subject, accompanied by sketches ; and followed it up by another in regard to the contents of cairns which I had opened. In one spot, near Sholapoor, I found most curious remains — a large barrow, with a parallelogram of rocks, 440 ft. by 280 ft. The rocks were in regular line, some of them 12 ft. long and 9 ft. thick, and from 5 to 6 ft. high. They had been rolled from the granitic range, a distance of 1|^ mile. Another place contained an 1851.] CAIRNS. 213 immense number of large rocks, placed in regular rows, direct and diagonally, leaving squares of from 5 to 6 yards between. In this area were some cairns. I sent my article on the subject to the Koyal Asiatic Society in Bombay, who did me the honour to elect me a member. These stone monuments of Shorapoor tallied exactly with European examples ; btit it seemed to me so strange a discovery that I almost doubted whether European archaeologists would admit it. They did so most fully afterwards, and my discoveries at Shorapoor were followed by others even more interesting in other portions of lower India. For a long period the affairs of the Nizam's Govern- ment had been in a critical state. It owed nearly one million sterling to the British Government, which it could not pay. The Contingent was constantly in heavy arrear, and Lord Dalhousie, urged by the Court of Directors, pressed for a settlement. The subject had been under reference to England for several years, but it appeared now nearer a conclusion. Provinces, detailed in a minute I wrote by desire of the Resident in January 1851, were to be made over to the British Government, and I was to' be put in charge of one of them. " The experience and past services of Captaia Meadows Taylor," wrote Lord Dalhousie to General Eraser, "at once point him out as the proper person for undertaking the direction of those districts which lie near Shorapoor, if his present occupation will admit of his entering on this additional charge." It would have admitted of it, for no new measures were required at Shorapoor, and the Eajah -wa,s gaining enough experience to manage fairly for himself, with a 214 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xn. little assistance now and then. He transacted most of the current business, and did it very well. His new palace was finished outside, and nearly inside also, and the upper apartments were very airy, cool, and spacious. My only dread was on account of his mother, who, I feared, was endeavouring to drag him into her toils by the worst possible means. However, the new arrange- ment with the Nizam was not to come into force at once. I was summoned to Hyderabad, to be given charge of a province, but returned as I went — the appointment being delayed. In December I received orders to go to Beejapoor to meet the Commissioner of Sattara and the Collector of Sholapoor, who, with myself, were to form a commis- sion for the investigation of lines of traffic and roads from all sides, with reference to the opening of a new port on the western coast at Viziadroog. I had been suffering much from fever and other ailments, and the change of air and scene was delightful to think of. I had never yet seen Beejapoor, and had longed to visit it for years, on account of its noble remains of Mussul- man architecture. We met, and made Out a report, which I had to write, and w6 were a very pleasant little party ; but my chief delight was in sketching, in which I was unwearied, and found ever fresh objects for my brush. Had I had three months, instead of three weeks, to spend, I could not have half exhausted the subjects that presented themselves everywhere — palaces, mosques, interiors, exteriors, combinations of ruins and landscape, extended views, and choice " bits," all most picturesque and beautiful. I brought away' as many drawings as I could ; but I would willingly have lingered had I had leisure. 1852.] THE rajah's MAJORITY. 215 As the majority of the Eajah was fast approaching, I drew up, at the Kesident's request, a report upon the results of my management of Shorapoor from the com- mencement ; and this he transmitted to the Governor- General, with a letter requesting instructions as to the date on which the Eajah's minority should expire, and proposing, on his own part, that I should remain at Shorapoor after that event, in the capacity of political agent on the part of the Government of India, on a salary of 1500 Co. rupees per month, to be paid by the State of Shorapoor. I did not think it likely that the Eajah would desire the presence of any political agent, if he were allowed the option, much less that he would agree to maintaining one at the cost of 20,000 rupees of the local currency ; but the Eesident's letter had gone on to the Government, and I could only await the reply. The period fixed for the majority of the Eajah was the completion of his eighteenth year ; but in relation to the political agency, his Lordship stated that " though it would be in the highest degree advisable, yet if, on attaining his full age, which the Eajah would then have reached, and finding his State orderly, and his means adequate to his expenditure, he should decline to com- ply with the suggestion, his Lordship does not know on what grounds the Government of India could insist upon it." The question, therefore, was to be referred to the Court of Directors. When the despatches arrived, I sent for the Eajah to read them to him, and make over the executive authority in Shorapoor itself to him, as I had proposed to do that of several departments, informing him also at what period his minority would cease. He took these communications in a very proper spirit 216 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xii — not greedily, but gratefully, and even sadly. " Till now," he said, "lie had not felt his position or its reality; but he would try and be worthy of the con- fidence of Government." He seemed most anxious about his mother, whose conduct was now horribly profligate ; and soon after his return to Shorapoor he tried to capture her chief favourite ; but the man escaped at night, and the Eanee, in a furious rage, shut herself up in a far wing of the palace. In September, all being perfectly quiet and prosperous at Shorapoor, I went up to Hyderabad for medical ad- vice. The Eajah had married his third wife, according to the custom of the family, and his first wife's half-sis- ter had also been married at the same time to the Eajah of Soonda. She was one of my Shorapoor children, for whom I had always felt a great affection ; she was so clever, and yet so gentle, and very handsome, and the Eajah of Soonda had fallen in love with her at first sight, and would not be refused. The expenses of these marriages, the ladies' trousseaux and their jewels, were very heavy — hardly less in all than a lakh of rupees ; but the money was their own, and devoted to their own purposes. At Hyderabad I was very ill ; the fever I had previ- ously suffered from returned with great violence, and my life was almost despaired of. Under God's great mercy I again recovered, and felt far better than I had done for several months before I left. The Governor- General and the Eesident were at issue in regard to the policy to be adopted with respect to the Nizam. The Eesident proposed that the whole of his Highness's dominions should be placed under the management of the British Government, and all useless expenses re- 1852.] KESIGNATION OF THE RESIDENT. 217 duced in order to pay the State debts, which were estimated at four millions and a half. Lord Dalhousie, on the other hand, protested very strongly against any interference with his Highness's affairs, which had been guaranteed by the British Government in the treaty of 1800 ; and he required only a partial cession of terri- tory to provide for the payment of the Contingent and liquidation of the debt to the Company. These views, so essentially different, were irreconcilable ; but I was not prepared for the result. The Eesident came to me one evening and said abruptly, " Taylor, I have sent in my resignation ; I have just posted it myself, and I have told nobody — not even my wife ; but I confide it to you. In a day or two it will be made public." I was much grieved. I had worked under him and with him for more than nine years without a difference, and his kindness, both officially and privately, had been uniform and continued ; nor can I ever forget his un- wearied care of me and attention in my illness. While I was still at Hyderabad his resignation was accepted, and he began his preparations for departure. I left Hyderabad on the 26th December, bidding him good-bye with extreme regret. Colonel Low, who on a former occasion had acted for General Fraser, was appointed his successor, and would, it was presumed, bring with him the final orders of the Governor-General in Council. He was expected early in March, so I should not be long in suspense. I returned to my districts, and began my last revenue settlement. There was but little to do ; the period of five years had expired, and all that remained was a general revision and adjustment, with the remissions or other provision for outstanding balances. On the whole. 218 STORY OF MY LIFK [chap. xn. we had been unlucky as regarded seasons, and liad tad tliree bad, through excess of unseasonable rain, against two good. I could therefore make no demand for an increase of rent, and the leases for waste lands taken up had been necessarily irregular. A regular system of returns of cultivation and revenue in all villages in correspondence with the treasury worked well, and the most ordinary supervision on the part of the Eajah would keep everything straight. I had not been long in camp when the Eajah came out to me, and remained for a few days' shooting. He appeared for the first time restless, and somewhat petulant, wondering how soon the orders would arrive regarding him. I could only assure him he could not be more anxious than I was on the subject ; but I could do nothing tiU they came. The Eanee had again been ill, and when her son visited her, had told him that unless he exerted himself he would never get the country out of my hands, and that he was now no child, " Why did he not act as a man ? " No wonder, I thought, that he was petulant, and perhaps suspicious too. I had informed him of the probable political agency ; and a draft of a letter was prepared from himself and others of the elder members of his family, declaring that no political agency was needed, and that the Eajah was fully able to manage his own concerns. Some signed these papers ; but others, espe- cially the Beydurs, refused to do so, except a few, who sent me word they had done it under compulsion. The Eanee, to her credit, declared to her son that he would ruin himself if these papers were forwarded. I never heard of them till afterwards, so I suppose the Eajah was guided by her counsel. On March 10th the Eesident wrote to the Eajah that 1853.] QUESTION OF POLITICAL AGENCY. 219 the Court of Directors and the Governor- General ap- proved of his taking up the affairs of his State ; but they desired that I should remain as political agent to advise him in State matters, and thus preclude the re- currence of former disorder and irregularity : to this the Eesident requested a distinct reply, which would be forwarded for the orders of the Governor-General. On receipt of this letter the Bajah wrote to me asking the meaning of "political agent," which I explained, and he sent his reply to the Eesident, which was at once forwarded; but the question of political agency was evaded under his assurance to Government that "his reliance in aU. matters was restricted to the favour of the Supreme Government." The Rajah had come of age the previous October, and the delay in his public recognition by Government was only making him restless and suspicious. If the Bajah had agreed to the appointment of a political agent, I should of course have remained with him ; but I had no wish to do so for many reasons, and I wrote privately to Colonel Low on the subject. The rumours of a transfer of territory by the Nizam became again rife in April, and as I felt sure my services would not be passed over, 1 waited patiently for the issue. I could not have remained at Shorapoor ; but if I were given charge of the Eaiohore Doab, I could still look after it. The Eajah's vices were becoming notorious, and I cannot write of them ; and his temper, to his own people, was growing like his mother's. The Eajah's answer to the Eesident not being con- sidered satisfactory by the Governor-General, the Eesi- dent again wrote, detailing the exact sum to be paid to the agent, 1815 Shorapoor rupees per month — equiva- 220 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xil lent to 1500 Government rupees — and there would be additional sums for sepoys, &o. I was at Shorapoor, and the Eajah brought the letter to me, and asked me what he was to say. " I cannot pay this large sum to any one," he said ; " you know I cannot." Indeed I was of the same opinion, and thought the expenses might well have been shared by the Company and by the Nizam's Government. " But," continued the Eajah, " I suppose they will be angry with me if I refuse, and, indeed, I don't want you to go away. I know I shall do no good when you are gone ; you don't know the people I have about me." " Yes," I said, " I do, as well as you ; and if you only act rightly, you will be able to control them far more easily than I did." " appa ! " he cried, leaving his chair, and throw- ing himself at my feet — " appa I if I were only a little boy again to lie in your arms, and for you to love me as you used ! All that is gone for ever." " No, no," I answered ; " if I go — and I must go soon — I shall not be far away from you, and if you are in any trouble or difficulty, send for me and I will come. You can always write in English ' Come,' and I shall understand." " I will," he said. " I know, whatever you may hear, you will not forsake your boy." And I gave him my promise. That, except once more, as I shall have to relate, was the last time I was ever alone with him. He wrote his answer to the Eesi- dent on the 1st May. It was clumsily worded, and Colonel Low did not like the stvle ; but the Eajah did 1853.] THE PROPHECY AGAIN. 221 not intend it to be disrespectful or arrogant. He declined the political agency on the terms on which it was offered, owing to the great expense ; and I thought him right. Meanwhile events at Hyderabad were in full progress towards a settlement. The Eesident had received his final orders, which were to demand that territory in pay- ment of the Contingent might be ceded in perpetuity to British management, and the districts I had named in my minute of January 1851 were the basis of the trans- action. The old Contingent was to be remodelled ; all the local officers pensioned, and the force no longer called the " Nizam's Army," but, as the " Hyderabad Contingent," to be an auxiliary one to the Grovernment of India. Should any reader desire to refer to these transactions, they are to be found in their entirety in the Blue-book of 1854, April 4th, and are in truth very interesting, as explaining measures on which Lord Dal- housie has often been arraigned. The Nizam objected to the " assignment in perpetuity," and the treaty was duly executed and signed without that condition, leav- ing him at liberty to redeem the provinces, if possible, at some future time. I was still at Shorapoor. The Eanee intended to go on a pilgrimage to one of the great temples in the south of India, and took leave of me in apparently real grief. " Do you remember, Taylor Sahib," she asked, " what I once told you about that boy ? You have not for- gotten it ?" " No, Eanee Sahib," I replied, "nor ever shall." "Ah," she continued, "he is the last — the last of his race ! He will lose all his ancestors ever gained ; and 222 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xii. all the pains you have taten with him, and all the money you have saved for him, will be poured like water into the sea ; and you will be grieved — sorely, sorely grieved I But I shall not see it, for I am dying, my friend, dying fast now. WiU you forgive me all that I have done to you ? I am a mean old woman. You are going one way, and I am going another ; we shall never meet again." I bent over her as she lay upon her bed, and touched her hand with my Ups. She could not speak ; but smiled, waved her hand gently, and I left her. Next day she went to Linsoogoor, and being again seized with paralysis, died there on the 27th May. She was but forty years old ; but when I last saw her she seemed seventy, haggard and wasted almost to a skeleton. The Eajah rode over to see her the day before her death, but she was insensible, and he disgusted all those present by his levity and the unruly crowd he had with him. He returned to Shorapoor while she was yet living, and made no attempt to attend her funeral rites. I called upon him the day after her death, according to Shorapoor etiquette, but he hardly mentioned his mother at all, except as having " been very foolish." So ended the Eanee Ishwarama. If there were some good points in her character, gen- erosity and charity to the poor, her profligacy and bane- ful influence over her son were terrible to think on, and continued to have effect on him to the last. Suraj-ool-Moolk, the Nizam's Minister, was dead ; and his nephew, Salar Jung, a most gentlemanly, well- educated young nobleman, had been appointed in his stead by the Nizam, with every prospect of success. 1853.] A NEW DISTRICT. 223 He has since risen to the very highest eminence in India as a statesman, and by him the Nizam's State has been rescued from the decadence with which it was threatened. I was now summoned to Hyderabad to receive in- structions respecting the district that was to be given into my charge — which of the five that had been ceded was not made known to me. I arrived on the 11th June, and having reported myself, received a polite note from the Eesident, asking me to come to dinner, as he had much to say. He received me most kindly, and I was charmed with him, he was so frank, and clear-headed, and decided in all his expressions ; and I saw at once that I should work happily under him. Next day the districts were assigned. At first I was given Berar, the largest ; but an express arrived from the Bombay Government particularly requesting that I might be given that portion of the ceded territory which lay contiguous to the Bombay Presidency, and I was nominated to it instead, as it was considered that my past experience rendered me more qualified to deal with the difficulties in that province. I had sent on all my tents and heavy baggage to- wards Berar by way of Boeder ; but I now recalled it, as I was required to go first to Shorapoor, and then to my new district : it was, in fact, part of my old district of 1828-29, and a fine healthy climate, which to me Berar was not ; and as one end bordered on Shorapoor, I should have no difficulty in getting there. The Eaichore Doab, to which I had looked as my probable destination, was divided into two portions, and Berar into two, and mine appeared to be the largest in area, though not in revenue. " ' Tou won't mind that,' " 224 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xil said the Eesident, as I wrote to my father ; " ' your district requires a person of tact and experience of more than ordinary character, and therefore I send you' " — a flattering and gracious speech, for which I made due acknowledgment. It was curious that my destination should be so very suddenly changed. The treaty, ratified by the Governor-General, had not as yet arrived from Calcutta ; and as there was a great deal of detail to be arranged about the establishments and general management of the new districts, the Eesident requested me to draw up a minute on the subject, which I did as rapidly as I could ; and by the time the treaty had arrived, and the Nizam fixed the 18th July for a public durbar to receive and sign it, my minute was ready. On the appointed day, the Eesident, accompanied by a numerous staff, of which I was one, went to the durbar. His Highness was in excellent humour, chatted freely and gaily with Colonel Low, and seemed highly pleased that the differences between the two Governments had been so speedily and so amicably arranged. Next day, I and the other new civil oiScers who were at Hyderabad received our credentials, and there being no need for further delay, I returned to Shorapoor to make my final arrangements, and to give over my charge to the Eajah according to the instructions I had received. Lord Dalhousie had not been particularly pleased with the tone of the Eajah's reply to his despatch, which he characterised as " presumptuous ; " yet, as there was no pretext for compelling him to retain the services of a political agent, he directed that the State should be made over to him, at the same time warning him — " That if he allowed his country to fall into disorder, 1853.] THE LAST DAYS. 225 the Supreme Government would interfere and establish order," or perhaps set him aside altogether. I had appointed the 30th June for the final ceremony, and had written to tell the Kajah to be ready. On my way to Shorapoor I fell in with Captain Balmain, who had been appointed to Western Eaichore, and took him on with me. My future assistant. Lieutenant Cadell, awaited me also at Shorapoor. I will give the detail of the last few days from my letter to my father, written at the time. " I had prepared proclamations and other documents directing all persons to obey the Eajah, and Cadell and I went to the palace in the evening. There were many people present, and the letter from the G-overnor-Gen- eral was first read ; then my proclamation ; and I made a short speech, saying I hoped that all present would be faithful to the Eajah, and serve him as they had served me — that I trusted they would do so, and take care of the State, and not relapse into evil ways. " Then, as I hung a garland of flowers about the Eajah's neck, and gave the State seals into his hand, a royal salute was fired, and the ceremony ended. " The Eajah seemed to take it all very coolly, and as a matter of course, and said nothing ; but he whispered to me that he could not say all he would in such a crowd ; but would send for me, or come up to me in a day or two. "We remarked that there was no manifestation of satisfaction among the assembly, or among the crowds outside the palace ; on the contrary, many were weeping. " The Eajah's first act was to seize his illegitimate half-sister, or rather take her away from her mother, and marry her by a left-handed ceremony, obliging the 226 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xa members of his family to be present, to their great dis- gust. For two days, he was busy with this ceremony, offerings at temples and the like, and on the 3d July he wrote to me begging I would come to him in the evening. " He asked me what he should write to the Governor- General, and I gave him verbally the outline of a plain, grateful letter. He then asked to be allowed to pur- chase my house, which was a great satisfaction to me, and he offered 20,000 rupees, an offer I gladly accepted, provided Government made no objection. He after- wards sent every one away, and spoke about his affairs more sensibly than I had ever heard him do before ; and as he gave me this opening I improved upon it, and showed him how, during the short time lie had managed his affairs, he had already contrived to spend every rupee of ready money — how his servants and soldiers were even now in arrears of pay, as was the case in his father's time, and he himself obliged to borrow here and there in advance of the collections. I told him I did not see what it would all come to if he did not take pains to make things better, and much to the same purpose, when he began to sob, and cling about me, saying he had now no friends, and how he was to get on he did not know, but he would do his best. He said he saw there was no use in soldiery, which his people told him were necessary (this was in relation to the proposed enlistment of Arabs and Eohillas, which I had heard was intended), and that he would discharge many of them, and reduce his extra expenses. He then told me there was one thing which he wished me to know, and which had long been on his mind — namely, that if he died without 1853.] ADVICE TO THE RAJAH. 227 legitimate issue he wished the British Government to annex his State, and provide for his family and depend- ants. I begged he would write this in a letter to the Resident, which I undertook to forward ; but I repre- sented that he was very young, and that I hoped tO hear of his having a family and an heir. " In such conversation our time passed, and I men- tioned everything I could think of in regard to the future management of the affairs. He said he did not know how to thank me, or show his gratitude ; but that if he were permitted tjo settle on me an allowance for life, and a village or two for my maintenance, as a proof of his regard, he would be thankful. " The next day he asked Cadell and me to dine with him. The letters, including that about my estate, were all ready, and were duly forwarded on the 7th July. The village selected for me was an outlying one with- in the British territory, and yielded 2500 Company's rupees, or £250 a-year, and I shall be very lucky if I get it. "The following day — Cadell having started in the morning — I went to the palace to bid the Eajah good- bye ; and not only he, but all the members of the family, and the chief people, male and female, in Shorapoor. " It was a painful process ; there were crowds of people aU about me, clinging to my palankeen, as I went from house to house. The Eajah had gone out to one of his hunting retreats, leaving word that he could not bear to see me go. As I proceeded, the people and the Beydurs, men and women, gathered in the streets, and accompanied me, and it was as much as I could do to get away at all. The Rajah's wives, whom I had known as children, clung about me. Poor 228 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xn. old Kesama, now nearly ninety years old, blessed me : ' I cannot weep,' she said, ' my old eyes are dry ; but I bless you, you and all belonging to you.' "It was a most exciting scene, and very painful. Mine has been a long sojourn among a strange people, and whatever may have been their faults, there was no doubt of their warm attachment to myself. " The crowds followed me to the gates ; but as my bearers quickened their pace the numbers soon fell off. At every village I was met by the people, and at the last one on the frontier a great concourse had assembled of all the heeid-nxen, patells, andputwarries, and principal farmers. I do not think there was even one man who had a hope of the Eajah's maintaining his position ; and as to themselves, they said — "We must escape oppression as best we can. It will be a hard struggle." So ended my connection with Shorapoor for the pres- ent. It was hereafter renewed for a time under far different circumstances. I had tried humbly and earn- estly to do my duty to its people of all degrees ; and could I give in extenso my long letters to my father, they would show more of what my inner life and oc- cupations were, and of my schemes and plans for the welfare of the State. They are far too monotonous, however, and all I have been able to do is to note such events, and quote such extracts, as would give some notion of my endeavours and their results. In one of his despatches General Eraser characterised the State of Shorapoor as " a wild and barbarous dis- trict, replete with disorder and irregularity of every conceivable kind." And no doubt it was so when I took over charge. The Beydurs were the same, and their power was the same as in the time of Aurungzeeb, 1853.] TAKEWELLS. 229 or indeed from the fifteentli century, and tlieir feudal condition of service to their chief was the same. Some- times, owing to their numbers and position, they had been able to dominate over all classes of the people ; sometimes their power had exceeded that of their own chiefs, and had forced these to act as they pleased. Sometimes the Eajahs had in their turn brought them to submission ; but they had never bent to any Mussul- man or other foreign yoke, and none of the civilisation that such a process insured had ever reached them. As long as times were disturbed, they plundered at their will throughout the Decoan and Mysore, and it was only when stronger and more peaceful Govern- ments had the rule that they were restrained. But if the old raids and forays could not be indulged in, there were at any rate cattle-lifting and dacoiiy, and other crimes, to fall back upon ; and they looked upon these as most honourable achievements until the late inter- ference with Shorapoor by the British Government. This violence I had at least suppressed, and for years before I left there had not been one single complaint of any such doings beyond the frontier. One of their systems, however, was not easy to era- dicate. A man who had a quarrel with his village for any cause could always obtain the aid of Beydurs willing to take his part as a point of honour, and these proceeded to issue threatening notices, such as — " To the authorities of . In the name of Ma- hadeo ! " The fire is on the hills ! We are out on murder and violence because you have injured , and you had better settle with him." If this notice were obeyed, all was well ; if not, the 230 STORY OF MY LIFE. [cHAP. xil people of the village were kept in perpetual alarm, their crops injured, and persons wounded, indeed often killed. This state of things was bad enough in the country it- self, but when it extended to parties across the frontier it was far worse. On one occasion a man of a small village near the river Bheema quarrelled with his family, and went to the Beydurs of Adoor, which was fifteen miles distant, in the Nizam's country, where about a thousand of them were to be found. He returned with a party, who harried the Shorapoor village, burnt corn-stacks, and wounded the head-man desperately, besides seven others, also sending me an impudent message that the Shorapoor Beydurs were cowards and old women. My Beydurs were furious, and asked me to lead them on to avenge this insult ; and I daresay they thought meanly of me because I did not. As the Nizam's local authori- ties would or could give no redress, I appealed to the Resident, who desired me not to stir, and sent down a detachment of infantry to march on the rebel village. It resisted, was stormed, and afterwards burnt ; and some of my Beydurs were present, which was a satis- faction to them, though they would rather have gone under me. Not long after the offenders sent a deputa- tion to me, praying for forgiveness, and they never trangressed again. They invited me to come and visit them, which I did, finding them on a fine level plateau — a much cooler climate than the plain. As a body the Shorapoor Beydurs had been free from crime. They were not dishonest, and there was no petty thieving or roguery among them ; they used to say they were too proud for that sort of thing. Though scarcely belonging to any caste, they were not given 1853.] BEYDUES. 231 to intoxication, and rarely drank spirits ; few even touched sendhee, which is the sap of the palm, fer- mented in a peculiar manner, and very exciting. In the years that I had been at Shorapoor there were, I think, only two murders among them. They never dreamt of resisting authority in such cases, but gave up the offenders to justice at once. In civil cases I never interfered with their usages, and they never complained of injustice. Their bhdts, or bards, and their elders, had a traditional knowledge of their laws and customs, and always attended the punchayets ; but I do not think there was much difference between their law and that of the Hindoos. The elders of the clans sat every day on their plat- form, under the great neem tree in the town, and at- tended to all complaints. They were grateful to me for respecting their former privileges, and elected me goorekar, or head executive over all the clans. They certainly never abused their claims, and by working well as rural police, saved me both labour and anxiety. I was very thankful that during my stay no blood had been shed, nor a single shot fired in anger among them. All the members of the clans had had lands allotted for their original support, . which had descended her- editarily. The minimum amount was one cooroo, or thirty beeffahs, but some held as much as three hundred leegahs nominal. Ordinarily they farmed these lands themselves, and divided the produce, but never the land, among the family. Wlien general security began to prevail, many took leases for waste lands, and were assisted by me with capital ; but it often surprised me to see how much was cleared and planted by them with- out help, I opened out to them also a new occupation. 232 STORY OF MY LIFE. [shap. xii. that of carriers of cotton, and other Shorapoor products, to the coast ; and of salt, spices, and English piece- goods from the coast, — and this business was proving very profitable. I introduced the best seed of cotton and other produce that I could get, and established a small manufacture of indigo, and ti-ied by every means in my power to promote peaceful and civilised under- takings. I think, and hope, that I left these wild people better than I found them ; they certainly were more prosperous. They were highly honourable, and once they had really solemnly sworn faith to me they never swerved. Not even their Eajah could tempt them when he tried ; and they told him very sternly that they had pledged their faith to me, and tiU I made them over to him they would not break it — nor did they. As a class these men were fine athletic fellows, con- stantly exercised in gymnastics and in the use of arms. They lived well, eating no meat except game ; and they were comfortably housed, their habitations having solid mud, or mud and stone walls, and clay terraced roofs. There was no savagery among them, such as prevails among the Bheels and Gonds, and other tribes. Their ordinary dress was a pair of loose trousers, of cotton cloth, descending to the calf of the leg ; a turban, and waistband, with a chintz tunic for festal occasions. Their hunting or war costume was a brown leather cap, gathered in round the head ; brown leather drawers over the cotton ones ; and a leathfer jerkin or jacket without sleeves : they only carried swords. Their women were well made, strong and hardy, and very cleanly in their persons and in their homes, and were excellent housewives, making their husbands' clothes, 1853.] ATHLETIC SPORTS. 233 spinning yarn for the weavers, and working in the fields, watering crops, and suchlike. It was rare to hear of a Beydur having more than one wife, and they were kind to their women as a rule. The moral character of these people was very high, and such infidelities as did rarely occur were tried among themselves at their own punchayets. They were very illiterate, and considered it "low" to be able to read or write, or cast accounts. That was the work of Brahmins ! They joined in some of the Brahminical observances of the State, and the Dussera, and the Ooaydee or Bussunt, were always attended by them. The Dussera I have before mentioned as a State pageant ; the Bussunt, or Springtide, was very different. In the morning all the clans in Shorapoor assembled on the hiUs around, dressed in clothes dyed yellow, and, accompanied by their horn-blowers, drummers, flag- bearers, and pipers, marched to the open space before the great temple on the terrace where the Eajah and I used to sit. Games were then begun — wrestling, leaping, &c. ; but that most appreciated was climbing the poles. Six of these, from twenty to thirty feet high, were put up, each with a small pavilion at the top, in which sat a man provided with jars of some slippery mixture. Large slices of pumpkin hung from the bottom of this cage, and the feat was to tear away one or more of these slices, and it was no easy task. Four, six, or eight stout fellows placed themselves round the base of the pole, others climbed on their shoulders, others again upon them, and so on, until one essayed to swarm from the last to the top, amidst clapping of hands and shouting. Meanwhile the man in the cage diligently emptied his jars of slippery stuff 234 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xil and water over them all, and often the whole struc- ture would coUapse, and the men fall in a heap. When any fellow, stronger and more fortunate than the rest, did succeed in snatching away the prize, the excitement was unbounded, and he was brought in triumph to the Eajah to receive his reward. These people also had a very popular game, which closely resembled prison-bars ; and I taught them leap-frog, taking a back myself at first ; and I have seen hun- dreds flying merrily over each other. I also introduced racing in sacks, which caused great amusement. Be- sides these sports, they had marbles, peg-tops, hop- scotch, and trap, as well as kite -flying, each in its season, as with us ; and it was curious to find these games amongst a people who had never known the English ; they were played, too, exactly in the same manner as with us, and are universal throughout India. Beydurs are keen sportsmen ; with their sharp spears they attack panthers, wild hog, and often even tigers, fearlessly. They are skilled at hawking, both -with large falcons and sparrow-hawks, training the latter to kill quail, larks, and snipe ; and the former, partridges, wild duck, fioriken, and hares. The last mentioned, however, were generally drawn into nets, and then knocked on the head with sticks. A sporting Beydur, " specially got up," was a very grand fellow indeed. He wore a large handkerchief tied round his head, of some showy pattern in brilliant colours. In the centre of his forehead was a large patch of crimson, which was brought down to the end of his nose, and across his eyes he had drawn his hand covered with dry ashes. Dabs of crimson ornamented his back, round which a delicate muslin scarf of some bright colour was brought 1853.] CRIMINAL COUETS. 233 and tied in a bow, the ends being finislied with some gold tinsel ribbon, which hung down in front. Bound his loins was wound a strong piece of cloth, with a knife stuck in at the waist. His trousers, tight round the body, looser to the knee, and after that very wide to the ankle, are generally white, or of pale salmon colour. His sandals are nicely oiled ; and altogether, with his falcon or sparrow-hawk on his wrist, his two dogs at his heels, and a stout quarterstaff in his hand, he was an imposing, handsome-looking fellow, and was quite aware of the fact ! Some wear gold ear-rings, silver rings above the elbow round the arm, and silver waist-chain. Sometimes a father took his little son out with him ; and these juvenile " swells," dressed exactly to resemble their fathers, sparrow-hawk and all, were very amusing. I need not attempt to describe the ordinary classes. They resembled most others of the Deccan, mixed Mussulman and Hindoo, but were ruder in manners than the corresponding classes in the British and Mus- sulman territories of the Nizam. They were industrious farmers, and the way in which they reared and culti- vated American cotton-seed, and applied their capital to increase the produce of their country, was admirable. They were litigious and quarrelsome. In heavy criminal cases I employed courts, or punchayets, of the chief per- sons at Shorapoor, Lingayets, Hindoos, and Mussul- mans, without exclusiveness as to their class, and in- cluding members of the Kajah's family; a President was then selected, and specific charges or indictments made against the prisoners. The evidence for prose- cution and defence was recorded, and the court gave written judgment, which contained summing up and sentence. I found this plan very simple and efficacioits, 236 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xn. and the proceedings were always carried on with the greatest regularity. Where sentence of death was re- corded, as in murders, the judgment was translated by me, with the evidence and defence, and forwarded, through the Eesident, to the Governor - General for confirmation ; and I had not one instance of disapproval to record. Cases involving fine and imprisonment, with hard labour or without it, I used to try myself. No law had ever existed in Shorapoor, nor even the semblance of a court of justice, civil or criminal. Ordinary civil suits were tried by civil punc7iai/ets not limited to five members, and there were but few appeals to me from their decisions. The population of the principality by census was about 500,000, or 130 to the square mile. The town itself and its suburbs 30,000. The public dispensary and hospital at Shorapoor were very useful, and medicines were dispensed under the orders of the apothecary attached to the staff. In visitations of cholera, medicines were sent out into the districts, and competent persons despatched in charge of them. Vaccination made great progress at Shorapoor ; and in the country I myself was the chief operator, my tents being surrounded every morning by crowds of women and children so long as my supplies of lymph lasted or could be obtained. My school at Shorapoor was well attended, and both Mahratta and Teloogoo, with Persian to Mussulman boys, were well taught. I had even a few English scholars, some of whom turned out well. In the districts there were plenty of schools, where Canarese and Mah- ratta were taught ; and to these I gave small grants in aid, and books which were used in the schools of the British provinces. 1853.] SUCCESSFUL UNDEKTAKINGS. 237 I have already spoken of what I had begun arfd done in public works. The lake at Bolmal was a complete success, and had repaid the money spent upon it several times over. The other irrigation works were incom- plete, and there was but small hope that the Eajah would carry them on, although he promised very faith- fully to do so. One grand scheme I formed — that of diverting the waters of the river Krishna from their bed, and bringing them through most part of the principality for irrigation purposes — had to be abandoned for want of funds, though perfectly practicable, as I had ascer- tained by levels. I had made and cleared many roads, one of which extended to Linsoogoor, through a wild and rocky tract, for 36 mUes, and opened up traffic between Shorapoor and the south. I had planted many thousand mango and tamarind trees about the town and elsewhere, intended both for ornament and produce. When I left, the road to the Krishna, six miles in length, was bordered on each side by a double row of fine young trees, which gave ample promise of fruit. All these undertakings were grad- ually accomplished without distressing the revenue in any way ; indeed there were ample funds for all such contingencies. I have not the final returns of the revenue at hand to refer to, but I know that it was nearly if not quite doubled ; and with the average liberal expenditure, there was a surplus of a lakh and a half. There were no debts whatever now, and I think, when I made over charge to the Eajah, that the State possessed every element of comfort and independence that could insure prosperity; but there was small hope of its continuance. 238 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xil Even in the brief period that had abeady elapsed the Eajah had spent every anna he found in the treasury, had not paid the stipendiaries, and had only the usual year's revenue to look to. My warnings on this point had been quite fruitless. I need say little of myself. Since my great sorrow I had led a cheerless, lonely life ; no society, no one to speak to from first to last, except the very rare visit of a friend or traveller. The palace children often came to see me, and loved to hold their dolls' feasts among my flowers with their playmates. Native friends would come up in the evenings, and a game of chess with one or other often followed. In the country, the village authorities would gather round to hear of England and the world beyond India, of which they had no con- ception whatever. Sometimes travelling minstrels or singers, accredited from other courts, such as Mysore, Baroda, Gwalior, or elsewhere, arrived, and the State hospitality was exercised, and performances given and attended, and on these occasions I gave my parties. Neighbouring "lairds" had to be received and enter- tained, for Shorapoor had to maintain its character for hospitality and kindly feeling to those adjoining it. My books were my constant delight, and with these and my telescope, a fine Dollond, I had always plenty of occupation. I read up Herschel, and other works on astronomy, to enable me to understand something of what I saw. Night after night I have thus wandered about those glorious fields of the heavens, ever new, ever resplendent, leading thought irresistibly into the Infin- ite. I could not go on with literary work, as, at the day's close, my brain was generally vyearied out. My work was seldom less than twelve hours a-day, with 185S.] EXPERIENCE OF NATIVE LIFE. 239 little variation, so to write was impossible ; but I felt I was gaining more and more real knowledge of native life and character, under circumstances that fall to the lot of very few Englishmen, and that, hereafter, if life were spared, I might turn my experience to good account. I kept up voluminous private correspondence, particu- larly with my father ; and this, with my usual letters to the ' Times,' official reports and translations, and oc- casional articles for the Indian press, were all 1 could manage to get through in my busy life. I was very thankful for the many blessings given me, and tried to discourage the feeling of utter loneliness that would at times oppress me. Ten years of my life were given to Shorapoor — a blank to me in many respects as regarded intellectual intercourse and literary progress ; but yet, with all its drawbacks, more interesting than the dull routine of a small cantonment. Now they had passed over, and a new phase of my life was opening before me in an enlarged and more im- portant sphere of action. Through all danger, through all illnesses and weariness and trials, I had been merci- fully preserved and tenderly protected, and was grateful to God for His great mercies — praying that in the future they might be continued unto me. 240 CHAPTER XIII. 1853-57. Although suffering from a severe attack of acute rbeu matism, I, with my assistant, Lieut. Cadell, pressed on to Sholapoor, where it was necessary that I should meet the Collector, who congratulated me very heartily on my appointment to the district, which joined his own, and we could work together with good accord, and looked forward to much pleasant intercourse from time to time. My assistant had no knowledge whatever, or experi- ence, in civil affairs ; but I thought it best to place him at once in a prominent position, and to give him gen- eral directions which, as he was very clever and willing, I thought would suffice. I therefore made over to him part of the small establishment I had collected, and directed him to take possession of all the ceded districts which lay along the left bank of the Seenah river, be- tween it and the range of hills that formed the " Bala Ghat," or upper portion of the whole province ; and with an escort of cavalry he set out to do what he could. Fortunately the cession had been made at the close of the financial year, so there was no confusion of de- mand and account between the outgoing administration 1853.] THE NEW PROVINCE. 241 and the incoming one. I did not anticipate any oppo- sition ; but the British forces at Sholapoor and Ahmed- nugger had been warned to hold themselves ready to assist me in case any resistance might be made. Nuldroog had been fixed upon as my headquarters, and I proceeded there without delay. I found a squad- ron of the Contingent cavalry encamped without the fort, which was in the possession of a large body of Arabs, who refused to allow the cavalry to enter, and whose temper appeared very doubtful. At first, too, I was refused admittance. Their chief declared that he held a large mortgage on the fort and its dependencies, and that his men were in arrears of pay, and that until all his demands were settled, or I gave him a guarantee from the British Government that they would be settled, he would not give me up the fort. I, however, took no notice of his demands what- ever. I told him the Nizam's Grovemment was the only one with which he could have dealings, and that if he and his men did not at once march out, I had no re- source but to summon the military force at Shorapoor, when I could not answer for the consequences. All the Arabs blustered a great deal, but finally retired inside to consider matters ; and a message was brought to me , in the evening, to the effect that in the morning the fort would be given up. And so it was ; and as soon as they had bivouacked outside on the esplanade, I marched in at the head of my splendid cavalry escort, hoisted the English flag I had with me, and took pos- session forthwith. I should have regretted exceedingly if the obstinacy of these Arabs had brought about any collision, for their example was looked to by all the various parties of Arabs in the province ; and had they Q 242 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xm. resisted my authority, all the rest would have done so too, and the Arab chiefs of Hyderabad were almost in possession of the whole tract. Although I had often before been at Nuldroog, I had never seen the interior of the fort, nor the English house belonging to it, which had been built by the late Nawab, who in old times had been a great friend of mine. The ladies of his family had used it, and now it was to become my residence. I found it a handsome building, although not very commodious. In the centre was a large hall, with two semicircular rooms on each side ; above the hall, a bedroom of corresponding size, with bath-room attached, from which there was a beau- tiful view all over the fort, the town, and the adjacent country. In front there was a broad verandah, supported upon pillars, and near at hand the portion set apart for the zenana, and which was still occupied by the ladies, who were to leave shortly. In the fort itself were several massive buildings, terraced and bomb-proof, which had been used in former days as barracks, hospital, powder- magazine, and guard-houses. There were also some other good native houses — all empty now, but useful for my English clerks and escort, and for conversion into treasury, jail, and public cueherry, or court, until more commodious buildings could be erected, or pos- sibly another head station iixed upon. It may easily be imagined that I was quite content with my new quarters ; and in a few days' time, when all the rooms had been well washed out, and the broken panes in the excellent English glass doors and windows repaired, my pictures hung up, my precious books un- packed, and some furniture and carpets I had brought with me placed in the large room, the result was a very 1853.] SETTLING DOWN. 243 comfortable apartment. There was, too, a good garden about the house, which was very soon cleaned up, and eventually became one of my greatest pleasures — for nowhere that I had been in India did English flowers and vegetables grow so well ; and there were several fine orange-trees and vines too, which, when properly looked after, gave abundant produce, as did the other fruit-trees, with which the garden was well stocked. My first task was to take stock of my new province. Its boundaries had been ill defined at Hyderabad, and had to be rectified before the whole could be brought well together. As fast as I could get them, I despatched managers to the different head-centres of counties with my orders, and to convey my assurances of goodwill to the people. The Arabs were now betaking themselves to Hyderabad, and neither my assistant nor I had experienced any except very temporary difficulties from them. In al- most less than one month I was able to report that we had established the authority of the British Government of India in every part of the province. My assistant's father, Mr Cadell, was an eminent Advocate in Edin- burgh ; and I was much amused when he wrote to his son that the proceedings of two men, with a small escort of cavalry, taking possession coolly of a province half as large as Scotland, with a strange population, were, to his perception, the " most consummate piece of assur- ance " he had ever heard of ; and " pray, how were we going to govern it?" Our district was rather more than 15,000 square miles in area ; but though the shrewd old Scotch lawyer saw, I daresay, a thousand difficulties, I saw none which could not be overcome by patience, hard work, and steady perseverance. 244 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chaf. xiil I had known the people before when I was a boy, and many still remembered me and my red trousers, and came to see me. The population was almost entirely agricultural — thrifty, industrious, practical farmers and gentry, who tilled their somewhat hard soil with sin- gular perseverance and success ; they were better far- mers than those at Shorapoor, and kept improving their fields till they would have done credit to an English landowner. I had liked the people in my early days because of their sturdy, independent character. Mahratta was the only language spoken, and this I had at my command-^ a circumstance which, I felt sure, would inspire confi- dence, for everybody soon knew that they could come to me and speak out their minds freely whenever they had occasion, without any go-between, or interpreta- tion, being necessarJ^ I knew, too, that the normal crime of the district, dacoity, not only stiU existed, but was largely and desperately practised — and this, which had defied me in former years, must now be eradicated with a strong hand. When I took possession of the province, there was no court of law or justice whatever, civil or criminal, any more than there had been at Shorapoor, and none such had ever existed within the memory of any person. The agents of the Nizam's Government, and the Arabs, used to punish gross criminal offences, and, in some cases, petty thefts ; but in the great crime of dacoity all seemed to have had a share, inasmuch as the agent always received part, according to his share, of the property stolen ! As for murder, no one ever noticed it, or thought of bringing the perpetrators to account. After a great deal of very hard work — during almost 1853.] . VISIT TO SHOLAPOOE. 245 night and day wliile it lasted — I had gained, partly from old accounts and partly from the details sent in from my new managers, a tolerably correct estimate of the resources of the province, which I submitted in a report to the Eesident. Owsa, a far stronger fort than Nuldroog, was indeed the only place that caused me any anxiety ; and I knew that the Eesident had also been very anxious about it, owing to its reputed great strength and the large number of its garrison. In Owsa, Purraindah, and Nuldroog, I now held the three strongest forts of the Deccan ; yet all had submitted without using any violence, and no further display of force than I have mentioned. So ended my preliminary operations in my new pro- vince ; and I was about to leave Nuldroog, in order to start on a tour through the district, when I received a note from the Collector at Sholapoor, asking me to come to him and arrange many matters pending be- tween us. The prospect of a little holiday and society was very pleasant, and I went. His wife was an excellent musician — both sang delightfully ; and it was a great treat to me to hear once more the music of great composers skilfully executed, and to try my own voice in concerted pieces — a pleasure to which I had for so long been a stranger. They were very kind and very patient with me ; but I fear I gave the ladies some trouble, I had grown so rusty. Owing to my very unsettled life latterly, my letters to the ' Times ' had become irregular, and I could not keep up the necessary communications for news whi'jh were required for fortnightly letters. There were no posts through my district ; and letters 246 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xra. and newspapers would, of necessity, reach me very ir- regularly, while the same objection applied to my de- spatch of letters. I reflected, also, that whereas hither- to my position at Shorapoor had left me comparatively independent, I was not so in my new appointment, and that I was not justified in writing so unrestrainedly on political subjects as I had been used to do. I therefore resigned my office of '' special correspondent " to the great paper, which, from first to last, had uniformly treated my opinions and contributions with the greatest courtesy. During my period of connection with the ' Times,' however, I had enjoyed the privilege of discussing and explaining, as far as possible, all the great subjects which pertained to the period : education and its re- sults on the people — for vernacular education had long since become a declared policy — trade, railways and communication of all kinds, cotton cultivation, irriga- tion in all its forms, along with the general political events of the previous ten years, momentous as they had been. ■ I do not know whether these humble efforts of mine had any effect in bringing India and its people, its interests, and its increase of civilisa- tion, more directly under the notice of thinking people in England. I hope so ; and I was vain enough to think they might have some such effect, as they were generally backed up by leading articles in the paper itself, and thus attained some importance. My correspondence all these years with my faithful friend Eeeve never slackened, and his letters were a great source of pleasure and encouragement to me in my work, and kept me informed of what was going on in the political and literary circles in London, so 1853.] AN OLD FKIEND. 247 * that I did not feel quite so much my exclusion from them. On my return from my pleasant little stay at Shola- poor, I went out to my tents, which were pitched at Tooljapoor, my old favourite resort in 1825. How beautiful it was ! The hills were all clothed with verdure, and the view from my tent was lovely. On the north side of the promontory where I was, lay the town, built on both sides of a deep ravine, and at its head the celebrated shrine of Bhowanee or Kalee, which lay in the hoUow beneath — not indeed, in itself, a remarkable edifice at all, but surrounded by pictur- esque cloisters and courts, always thronged by pil- grims, and which formed a curious combination of all kinds of Hindoo architecture. The climate was delightful, like that of an English summer-day, in turn cloudy and sunshiny, with occa- sional light showers. On the day of my arrival, I had just breakfasted, and sat down to begin work in my cucherry, or office tent, when an old Brahmin came in, and for a time sat down quietly in a comer without speaking. Seeing that I was alone, he came up to my table, and peering closely into my face as he leant upon his staff, he said, " Are you the Taylor Sahib who came here many years ago ? " When I answered that I was the same, he produced a bundle of old papers, and asked me whether I re- collected them. As I looked over them, I saw that I had put my initials to each of them, but forgot at the moment why I had done so ; for in any case of inquiry or settlement it was my habit to initial all the papers, and I thought these documents must relate to some old claim or suit to be revised. I was soon undeceived. 248 STOGY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xiii " Have you forgotten, sahib," said the old man, " that I once cast your horoscope, and told you that you would return here to govern us after many years ? And see ! it was true ! — you have come ; and, indeed, there is little difference in the time I recorded — twenty- five years ! I had not the exact data, if you remember, that I wanted — you could not give it to me." It was all true enough ; there I was, the " ruler " over them, and I then recollected how strange it had appeared to me at the Eesidency when my destination was so suddenly altered from Berar to these western districts, on the requisition of the Government of Bom- bay. The prediction had certainly been a strange one, and was as strangely fulfilled, even to the very letter of time. " And you have been a ' rajah,' too," continued my old friend, " and have governed a country to the south for ten years ; that I recorded — see, sahib ! " and he pointed excitedly to the document. " See, there is no mistake there either ! " " Not quite a ' rajah,'" I said, laughing, " only manager of the country while the rajah was a child." " It was all the same," returned the old Brahmin ; " you were all-powerful, and just like a rajah, and you governed the people. And you have seen sorrow too, sahib ; you were not married when you were here, and now you have lost wife and dear children, I hear ? I wrote that. I saw it all plainly — it is here. And you are not rich, they tell me ? Yet lakhs of rupees have passed through your hands. Did I not tell you that too?" " No, indeed," I replied, " I am not rich ; indeed much the reverse, and I have had heavy sorrows." 1853.] STRANGE SCENE. 249 " It could not be avoided," he said ; " no one could have mistaken what I discovered just twenty-five j'ears ago. You were born for work, not for the indulgenco of wealthy idleness, and so you will continue. If you want these papers I will give them to you ; if not, let them remain with me," and so saying, he took his leave. He soon afterwards went on a pilgrimage to Nassik, and there died. I did not want the papers, and he kept them. I cannot account for his prediction. I only relate what happened. I told my old Serishtadar, Baba Sahib, about my horoscope and its results ; but he was not in the least surprised. " We Brahmins," he said, " believe in astrology, and you English laugh at it ; but when one who under- stands the art casts a horoscope and calculates it scientifically, the result is seldom wrong. You were to have gone to Berar, and yet your fate has brought you here to Tooljapoor again, at the very time appointed, twenty-five years after, in spite of yourself and also of the Eesident. Can you doubt, after this ? Is there not more in astrology than you believed ? " I made no comment. How could I, in the face of the simple facts that had occurred ? A settlement of the country for five years had been directed, and inquiries were ' necessary before any attempt could be made to carry out the measure. I was glad to find that the village accounts had been far better kept than those of Shorapoor — and many of the ancient original settlements of the time of the Bah- many kings and of Mullik Umber were still extant. With these documents, and the ordinary village en- tries and registries, I could see my way to a new form 250 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xia of account which would embrace all particulars ; and copies of these forms were made by the village account- ants, to be filled up when the yearly period of settle- ment arrived. It was very tedious work ; but unless it were done, it would be impossible to submit to Government any clear or complete statement of the general revenue, or whence it was derived. My progress was necessarily very slow. In the original instructions given to the Deputy- Commissioners, they had been directed to make use of the existing local courts of the Nizam's Government for the trial of aU cases, civil and criminal : but as no local tribunal or judicial office of any kind was found by me, and none had existed for years, I deter- mined to introduce a code of laws of njy own, civil as well as criminal ; and I took the regulations of Bombay as my guide, drawing up a short definition of crimes and their punishments — and in civil cases, of general procedure, — simple and intelligible to all classes. I assigned various powers to patells, or heads of villages, to talooh officers, to my assistant, and to myself — mine being the highest court of appeal in the province from the decisions of subordinate courts, and the Eesident being the final one to whom all appeals against me were to be referred. ' This code and general plan of mine were approved of as a temporary measure at Calcutta, and I put it in force as soon as it was sanctioned. It lasted till Macaulay's penal code was sent for a practical trial in the assigned districts, but the civil procedure I had drawn up was, I think, retained. These, with instruc- tions for the guidance of police, revenue proceedings 1853.] WATER SUPPLY. 251 and collections, and for the conduct of every depart- ment, occupied a great deal of my time : but all were as brief and concise as possible, though, necessarily embracing every point for general direction. Mr Bushby, once an assistant to the Eesident at Hyderabad, was appointed successor to Colonel Low, who had now become member of the Supreme Council. It was his wish, as it had been that of Colonel Low, that my district should have a well-defined frontier, but when I say that no fewer than seventy border disputes had to be settled, it will be seen that mine was no easy task ! I went in to Ahmednugger to consult the Collector. Mr Bell and he hospitably in- vited both Cadell and myself to his house, where we spent some days very pleasantly at the great station. I had not been there since the year 1826, and found it greatly improved and enlarged. In my journey both to and from Ahmednugger, I had been much struck with the capabilities of the coun- try for large irrigation - works, and in particular for tanks. Streams, descending from the table-lands to the north, and tributaries to the Seenah, afforded ample supplies of water ; and the ground, from its peculiar character, provided most convenient basins, which only required dams at certain places across their mouths to be converted into tanks. In one instance a stream which had a catchment area of upwards of 200 square miles, after leaving the hills, ran through a nearly level plain of about four square miles in area, which ended in two bluffs about a quarter of a mile asunder. A dam of fifty feet high was per- fectly practicable at a comparatively small outlay, and the water held back would form a lake twice the size 252 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xm. of Bohnal. I determined, with as little delay as pos- sible, to get up a report on the subject, and try to have some works of the kind begun for a country which was absolutely thirsting for water, and where every drop that could be procured from wells or from streams was used for the production of sugar-cane, ginger, turmeric, and other rich and valuable crops. Mr Bell met us at a village which we had agreed upon, where there was good camping - ground, and which, though under his charge, was within our fron- tier, and there we passed some days in November very agreeably. As he had brought his establishment with him, we compared our work, and he was not a little surprised, I think, to find mine quite as regular in aU respects as his own, except in the revenue depart- ment, the particulars of which we had still to unravel, whereas his had been decided by survey. I was now settling three divisions in order to enable my assistant to work for himself ; and when these were completed, I left him, to look after my eastern districts on the table-land, which I had not yet visited. By the end of the year 1853 the whole was in fair working order, and giving me no anxiety, except as to the scarcity which seemed to threaten us owing to failure of crops. There had been no rain since Sep- tember, and comparatively little before that. Portions of the Bombay Presidency were already suffering, and Shorapoor was also in distress. The accounts from thence were veiy sad. Neglect, riot, and crime pre- vailed ; and I was indeed grateful that, although I was worse paid as a Deputy-Commissioner than I should have been as Political Agent there, yet I was spared the pain of seeing all the fair structure I had striven 1853.] SUPPRESSION OF CRIME. 253 SO long and so hard to raise rapidly falling into ruin and decay. I had already made considerable progress in the suppression of the terrible normal crime of dacoity. Several old dacoits had turned approvers, and had given details of robberies and murders, which had been shock- ingly numerous. Through them stolen property was traced, and recovered too, to a very large amount ; and out of one dacoit's house at Owsa, articles of various kinds, to the value of 1200 rupees, were taken, which had been his share of the plunder secured on that occasion. I was blamed at first by the Kesident for raking up old cases ; but I held my ground, for those I had tried were all comparatively recent, though the crimes had been committed before the cession. I was determined to eradicate the pest if I could, and I thought the only chance lay in attacking the old gangs and in bringing their crimes home to them. This had been done in Thuggee, why not in Dacoity ? The question was referred to Calcutta, and soon decided as regarded the assigned districts. All criminal offences, such as dacoity and murder, were deemed open to trial within a period of ten years from the date of their perpetration ; and according to this rule I was at lib- erty to work, and I did so vigorously. Already I had achieved something, and more would follow. By Lord Dalhousie's request I kept up my correspond- ence with Mr Courtenay : I think his lordship liked to know unofficially what I was about, and I wrote free and unreservedly. A report I had sent in upon my system of administration had interested him a good deal, and I heard he took it away to study in private, and that he desired I might be told this. He had also 254 STOEY t)F MY LIFE. [chap, xiil entirely acquiesced in my plan of revenue settlement to precede a survey ; and to hear that what I had done was approved of, was very cheering. I found the eastern portion of my district in a far worse condition than the western, and I find myself writing thus to my father in March 1854 : — ■ " While at Nelingah I was more oppressed with work than I had been anywhere. I found the district in shocking order : no proper accounts, and no confi- dence among the people ; a ruined, impoverished set of pauper cultivators, who have been so long oppressed and neglected under the Arab management, that they are, I imagine, blunted to all good perceptions. Mur- i der, robbery, attacks on villages, plunder of cattle, and destruction of crops, had got to such a height last year, that civil war could not have had a worse effect upon the people or on the revenue ; and all agreed that if British rule had not come in this year, the whole district would have been utterly ruined and wasted. I never saw anything like it. I thought Shorapoor bad, but this is infinitely worse, and the labour it is to get anything put right has been excessive. I can only say that I have been obliged to work frequently from 4 a.m. to 8 p.m., with only respite for dressing and breakfast ; but there is no help for it. I have been giving five years' settle- ments to such villages as are ready to take them, but there are many which are so disorganised that they require to be specially nursed." Before I returned to my headquarters, ISTuldroog, I had the satisfaction of beginning two new irrigation reservoirs near Tooljapoor, on plans and surveys which I had previously submitted. I intended that these should form the commencement of a system of tank- 1854.] IKKIGATION-WOEKS. 255 irrigation from Tooljapoor to Ahmednugger, a question in which the Governor-General seemed much interested, and in which he encouraged me heartily to persevere. The Eesident also, Mr Bushby, began to see the necessity of it ; and I was the more rejoiced at obtain- ing sanction for this, because great distress was prev- alent, though it scarcely amounted to famine yet, and three new works would enable me to employ a great number of persons. I was glad, too, to find that both my neighbours, the collectors of Ahmednugger and Sholapoor, had become strong advocates for irrigation- works, and had sent in urgent representations to Govern- _ ment on the subject. In these undertakings I had to make the surveys, plans, and calculations entirely myself; but I always managed to find time to do these before my daily work began, so that other business was never interfered with or postponed. It seemed strange to me that though irrigation-works were progressing in the North-West Provinces with great energy, in the Bombay Presidency no one seemed to take the least interest in them, or, had it not been for these gentle- men, would probably ever have given a thought to the subject ; and indeed, to this day, I believe but little progress has been made in these most useful works. For a long time the proposed revenue survey caused much trouble and vexation. A small manual had been sent us from the Puujaub of the system in use there, which was by plane-tables, — and plane-tables were sent afterwards. Every Deputy-Commissioner was to have a school of instruction, and to teach the putwarries, or village accountants, to survey their own lands ; and tlie work was to begin at once. This was all easy enough to write about ; but the carrying such orders into effect 256 STOKY OF MY LIFE. fOHAP. XIIL was a very different matter. I believe I happened to be the only Deputy-Commissioner who knew how to survey, and the rest looked to me to begin operations. Extensive correspondence on the subject took place, and cost me much additional time and trouble ; but I could not use the Punjaub instruments and the com- passes with which the work was to be done — it was impossible ; and after much writing and loss of time in useless endeavours at explanation, I introduced a plan of my own. I had some better plane-tables made, and worked them by backsight, like a theodolite, and my plan succeeded very well. I also established a school of young men, instead of the putwarries, who proved apt scholars, and did good work, and I sent in my report with some specimens of surveyed lands. My plan was approved, and I was simply desired " to go on." The year 1854 had been a truly laborious one to me, and except during the very short period of the late rains, I had been under canvas since July 1853. The work accomplished had been enormous. In English, Persian, and Mahratta, the references and letters had been 34,474, upwards of 9000 of which had passed between my assistant and myself, many being on very intricate and tedious subjects. We corresponded offici- ally always in Mahratta. For my own share I had had 272 criminal cases to dispose of, thirteen of which were indictments for murder ; of civil cases and appeals I find no record among my letters, but no doubt they may have been mislaid or lost. My revenue for the financial year was all collected — except about 3000 rupees, which still had to be remitted 1855.] THE resident's VISIT. 257 — and amounted to 10 lakhs and 66,000 rupees of all sorts ; which, allowing for large deductions, exchanges, &c., became Es. 886,565 13 3. The revenue for the previous year had been, accord- ing to the local accounts, Rs. 699,805 11 8, so that there had been an increase of Es. 187,260 1 7. The amount of land previously under cultivation had been 1,192,395 beegahs ; that for the present year 1,221,947 heegahs, or an increase of 29,552. Further particulars are unnecessary, and would scarcely interest the general reader. In spite of a little fever, from which I suffered at Nul- droog, I was in rude health. I enjoyed the climate of the district, and along the edge of the table-land it was generally cool in the hottest weather. I was always able to work at least twelve hours every day, and often more, except on Sundays, when I always read the service in my tents to my English clerks. Every department of the district was now in fair working order, and I was quite prepared to show the Eesident, if he came to see it, as it was hinted he would, all my interior economy, and wished it to be compared with other districts of the same class. The Eesident and his staff left Hyderabad on the 20th December, and I met him at KuUianee, in the Nizam's territory, on the 1st January 1855. He received me very kindly. As I rode into camp he was just starting on his elephant, and he asked me to come with him, which I did, and we were soon deep in friendly talk about all sorts of things. We travelled together to Nuldroog, where I had plenty to show him — all the treasury books and accounts, the jail, &c. &c. ; and I had collected the putwarries of a number of villages R 258 STOEY OF MY IJFE. [chap. xm. and their books, and explained my system to him. He was pleased to say "he could hardly believe that so perfect a system could have been organised ; " g,nd he was more and more satisfied as we proceeded further, and the books of other groups of villages were shown to him. He did not like Nuldroog at all, and said there must be another head-station — and in this view I quite coincided ; but there could be no change made for the present. I was very anxious to lay my projects for irrigation- works before him, and he marched with me to Tooljapoor, where the largest tank had been marked out, and this seemed to decide him in regard to the more extended system which I had advocated. He said he was very anxious to show that the " assigned districts could do as much for their size as the Punjaub," and promised to send on to Government all the plans and estimates that could be prepared. He could propose no change in judicial matters, as my small code was working very satisfactorily ; and he confided to me that I was the only Deputy -Commis- sioner who had attempted to introduce anything of the kind. At the request of the people, I chose the site of a new market -town near Nelingah. There were more than a hundred applications for sites, so I designed a market-place and a hall of assembly ; and the Eesident having given his sanction, we began to build at once. Nelingah was now a place of trade and a resort of mer- chants, yet how it was reduced ! The old accounts showed its revenue to have been 12,000 rupees a-year ; now it did not reach above 3000. In August I lost the valuable services of my assistant 1855.] MOKE WOKK. 259 Cadell. He had gone to Hyderabad on leave for a month, and when there, Bullock, who was Commis- sioner in Berar, applied for furlough to England on medical certificate ; the Eaichore Commissioner was ordered to act in Berar, and CadeU was sent to Eaichore. I was very sorry to lose my friend. He had managed four out of my ten divisions admirably from the first ; he was always kind, courteous, and considerate to natives of every degree, and had won golden opinions from all. We had worked well together, and he was thoroughly acquainted with his duties in every respect. Personally, I was very much attached to him, and shall never forget, while I live, our pleasant days together. No assistant was appointed in his stead, and the whole work of the province fell upon me, without any additional pay ; but I was grateful for excellent health, though I hardly hoped it would long hold out under the terrible strain now put upon me. We had no rain till September ; but the new roads, to the commencement of which a tardy sanction had at length been given, provided labour for upwards of 4000 men, women, and children, and saved them from starva- tion. I also cleared out the fort altogether, and thus employed 1500 more persons : every old wall was levelled, and the stones were thrown into hollows and covered with earth. In October heavy rain fell all over the district, and we thanked God that all dread of famine was at an end. The very early crops had withered, but now every acre of land was being re-ploughed and sown, and the prospects were very cheering. Another road to Tooljapoor was sanctioned and put in hand ; and I had completed thirty miles of one and fifteen of another, having been obliged to do all the surveying and laying 260 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xol out myself. They were only cleared and levelled to begin with, and would be metalled afterwards. My brother-in-law, William Palmer, was at last ap- pointed as my assistant. He had served in a similar capacity in North and South Berar. In the latter pro- vince no system whatever had been introduced, neither revenue, account, nor judicial, and the Kesident had gone there on a tour of inspection. Cadell, too, wrote from Eaichore to say that he had everything to originate there, and he did not like it at all ; but I hoped he was in a fair way for promotion. The work at the large tank at Tooljapoor had been stopped pending formal sanction by Government — but this had been granted ; and after testing all my old levelling by a new instru- ment which my father sent to me from England, the embankment was begun in earnest. In December all looked well — crops were luxuriant, work progressing, and people happy and contented ; and for this peaceful close to a very trying year, I felt most grateful. I again received orders to meet the Resident on his return from South Berar to Hyderabad, at any point nearest to my boundary. I therefore, while waiting for him, car- ried on the survey of the road from Tooljapoor to Kullianee, and contrived to get through from seven to nine miles per day, laying down marks for the con- tractors and workmen. I finally met the Eesident at his camp at Bundapoor on the 14th January 1856. He was exceedingly kind and friendly towards me. He expressed himself dissatisfied with the condition of South Berar, and was pleased to say many flattering things about the order and regularity in aU departments which he had found at Nuldroog. As still farther im- provement had continued since his visit, I would have 1856.] IMPKOVEMENTS. 261 liked to have taken him through part of my district ; but time did not permit of it, and he could not delay longer his return to Hyderabad. There was no differ- ence of opinion between us except in regard to the survey, as to which I consistently maintained my first position, that unless it had a scientific basis, and the surveyors had a practical education and knowledge of their work, they could not deal with village lands like tliose of Nuldroog, some of the areas of which were from 20,000 to 30,000 acres in extent ; and that to per- severe in the Punjaub scheme would not only entail loss of time, but of money also. We had several hot arguments about this ; but at last the Eesident confided to me that the Punjaub work had been an utter failure when scientifically tested, and he showed me some of the correspondence, which was convincing. I was therefore allowed now to work out my own tables in my own way. I had a number of clever pupils, who were ready to set to work at once, and I promised to show results in a very short time, which I hoped would be considered satisfactory. All official clouds and differences were dispersed, and we were of one accord in all matters. In private Mr Bushby was one of the pleasantest of companions ; and we sat up each night into the small hours of the morning, engaged in pleas- ant talk, and schemes for the further improvement of my district. He had sent on all my plans for roads and irrigation -works ; and estimates, exceeding a lakh of rupees, had been passed by Government. All this made me very hopeful. I thought very earnestly at this time of taking fur- lough to England, and seeing my father once more, and 262 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xia of bringing out my children to India, if it were practic- able. My heart yearned to see them and all the dear ones at home, yet there were many difficulties. I had no society, and no means of continuing their education ; and Nuldroog, or life in tents, was quite unfit for them. I could not, either, go home on medical certificate, for, thank God ! my health was first-rate ; and no doctor in Bombay, seeing my ruddy cheeks and strong frame, would have ventured to give me one. So I had no alternative but to wait patiently the tide of events. I was not without a hope that as a head-commissioner was to be appointed to superintend the whole of the dis- tricts, I might be nominated to the post. This would have involved residence at Hyderabad, where I could have had home and friends for my children ; but in this I was disappointed. Alas ! I was not a regular Com- pany's servant, only an outsider, " uncovenanted," and the Company's rules could not be infringed ! Already, I heard from Mr Courtenay, there existed much jealousy in regard to the offices held by " local officers ; " and much as Lord Dalhousie wished personally to serve me, he dared not provoke further dissatisfaction. On the 6th March, Lord Dalhousie departed from Calcutta for England, leaving behind him a minute, which has its place in history, in which he detailed what he had done during his vice-royalty. His last annexation had been Oudh ; but that had not been his own work. It had been for some time imminent, and was finally decided upon by the Court of Directors and the Government of England. It is only in future his- tories of India, and from his own papers, should they ever be published, that the character and acts of Lord Dalhousie as Governor - General can be properly esti- 1856.] LORD DALHOUSIE. 263 mated ; as yet, he has had his eulogists, and his bitter opponents, almost, indeed, amounting to defamers. To my humble perception he was the most practically useful and single-minded ruler that India had ever pos- sessed. His great mind took in every question with a singular clearness, whether it were large or small, momentous or unimportant, and he improved everything he touched. To him India owes electric telegraphs, railways, extension of practical education, large irriga- tion projects, roads, and the removal of many disabiHties under which natives suffered. No one who ever worked under Lord Dalhousie could for a moment question his unerring detection of any weak point, and the great power of mind and application which distinguished him, and at no period of Indian history had the administra- tion of India been so admirably conducted. To receive a word of praise from him was the desire which lay nearest every heart ; and when given, it was never in a cold or niggardly spirit, but warmly and most encouragingly. To myself personally, though I knew him not, he had been, both privately and officially, kind and considerate from first to last; and I only regret that I cannot find among my papers the last expression of his lordship's sentiments towards me, in transmitting a copy of the last despatch of the Court of Directors in reference to the afiairs of Shorapoor. I have spoken of my own work, and have called it hard, lasting from twelve to sixteen hours daily; but this was made up of the petty details of one province. Lord Dalhousie did as much each day, with the direc- tion of all India on his mind. " No one can record," wrote the ' Times,' " for few knew, of his daily toil, or how, with a delicate frame, he overcame it, but which 264 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xin. overworked and destroyed his physical powers, and in 1860 sent him to his grave." When he left her, India seemed secure and peaceful, and he retired with a very sincere conviction that so she would long remain ! I was principally engaged in trying criminal cases, which were both numerous and heavy ; but there were no dacoities now, and these cases belonged chiefly to the period before the cession. As a proof of what I had to do in judicial affairs, I may here mention that Mr Comp- ton, who was judge of Sholapoor, sent me a memoran- dum of the result of his work within a certain period. He had tried 72 cases, whereas my file showed 172 for the same ! My police system was working well. Every patell, or head of a village, was made a local magistrate, with certain powers, and a small allowance ; and as a mark of distinction, the post was much esteemed. It gratified me also to find that my rules for the police were ordered for adoption in every province of the cession. My accounts were made out, and sent up to Hyder- abad with the administration report in July. The increase of cultivation in three years had been 184,000 acres. In 1855-56, 72,000 acres of new land had been taken up, but 34,000 were abandoned in the famine, which would not have been the case had rain fallen, and we should have had, with that, 218,000 acres of increase. As the revenue augmented, petty taxes would be remitted, as I had arranged from the first. This year 40,000 rupees would be struck off, yet the whole revenue would not be seriously affected. I need not give again all the details, as those of the previous year wiU suffice. 1856.] VARIOUS DUTIES. 265 In August Mr T. N. Maltby, of the Madras Civil Ser- vice, was appointed head-commissioner, and Mr Bush- by was relieved from the extra duties which had been imposed upon him, and which were very onerous. We looked out now for changes and amendments, which would form part of a more regular system than we had yet experienced. It was very evident to our com- missioner, in the first place, that without increased establishments, the demands for regular reports, con- stantly increasing, could not be complied with, nor could the strain on any one who could and would do the work be borne much longer. As some relief to me, my head ministerial ofiScer, "Baba Sahib," a very shrewd and excellent revenue ofScer, whom I had brought with me from Shorapoor, was promoted to the rank of extra- assistant ; and he, with my assistant Mr Palmer, relieved me of much of the petty detail which had distressed me before. Cadell had been appointed Deputy - Commis- sioner in South Berar, and Eastern Eaichore had been added to the western portion as part of the new arrange- ments. He was now, I was glad to see, on the highroad to promotion, and he had truly well earned his advance. My work never slackened in amount ; and in reply to my father's query as to how my day was spent, I wrote as follows : " Up at 5 a.m., and go out about the survey of the roads. In by eight o'clock and answer letters, English and Mahratta, till ten ; bathe, and breakfast over at eleven. Then to cucherry work, trials, &o., till 6 P.M., without stirring — often, indeed, till seven. Dine and sit an hour or so with Palmer, if he is there, or with some native fiiend, by way of a rest, which brings up the time to half-past eight or nine. Then to my room, and work at translations or other business till 266 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xin. eleven or twelve. Count up all this and you will see there is no time for anything except hard work ; yet, I am very thankful to say, I have neither pain nor ache." The public works did not slacken either. Every road I had surveyed and marked out was in active progress, and there were now six long distances under the labour- ers' hands. Our new Commissioner had written to me to say that he proposed taking my district the first in his projected tour of inspection. He was to leave Hyderabad on the 20th November ; and as I had a little leisure time and needed rest, I went into Sholapoor on a visit to my kind friends, Mr and Mrs Compton. What a treat this was to me ! She was a highly-accomplished and exquisite musician, and it was delightful to listen to her. I had heard so little music since I had been in England, and had nearly forgotten all I knew ; but it came back to me, and I had the great delight of singing all my favourite duets, Italian and English ; and they were so kind and sympathetic, these dear friends, that my heart warmed to them both, nor did our friendship ever lessen. My pleasant stay ended abruptly, as I had to return to Nuldroog sooner than I expected. Another assistant was added to my staff, Lieutenant Temple of the Madras Army, who, having passed an examination as civil en- gineer, and having been employed in the survey, and as superintendent of roads and tanks, would be of the greatest use to me. He arrived at Nuldroog on the 30th November, and was followed by a second native assistant, Jewanjee Eustomjee, a Parsee, so that now I had two English and two native assistants. Mr Maltby had seen at a glance that it was no use overworking his Deputy-Commissioners. 1856.] TESTING SUEVEYS. 267 During my little visit to Sholapoor I made the ac- quaintance of the surveyor-iu-chief for the railway, and I asked him to come with me to see my embankment works, roads, &c., and, above all, to test my survey with the theodolite. He came to Nuldroog, tested the sur- veys of three considerable village lands, and gave me a certificate that he could find "no appreciable error whatever." Here was a grand triumph for me ! Gov- ernment had refused me a theodolite, and I had been working in my own fashion, and somewhat in the dark. My system with the plane-tables was quite new to my friend, and he did me the honour to ask me for one of my instruments, which I considered a high compli- ment. The certificate he had given me was too valuable to retain, as it entered into full details of his tests, and I forwarded it to the Commissioner. Although he had not seen them in actual working, Mr Maltby ordered at once the adoption of my system of accounts in all departments, and directed it to be put in force in all districts of the Commission. My police regulations had already been adopted, and, at length, what I had been working for so hard seemed to be appreciated ; and I received, by a minute of the Supreme Council, the " special thanks of the Governor-General in Council for my valuable services." And so ended the year 1856, with many thanks to God for all His merciful protection. Everything around me was peace- ful and prosperous ; there was good hope of a fine season ; my roads were opening out lines of traffic all through the country; and trade was brisk and profit- able. I had held many criminal trials during the year ; but 268 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xia the last one in 1856 was more than usually extra- ordinary. A farmer and shepherd, the possessor of some wealth, had two wives — one old, the other young. The elder wife had no family, and he had married a younger one in the hope of having an heir bom to him. Much jealousy existed between the women, though they did not live in the same house, or e%'en in the same village. One morning early, the shepherd was found dead in his sugar-cane field, which he had gone to watch alone during the night. His head was literally knocked to pieces with large stones, but the body could be perfectly identified. There had been a feast in his house the evening before, and a kid had been kiUed by his nephew, and many of the neighbours had partaken of the dinner, at which the shepherd and his elder wife had appeared to be on the best terms. At the inquest and local investigation many suspicious circumstances were brought forward against the elder wife and the nephew, and both were committed by me for trial. One of these was, that the wife of the nephew declared her husband had been absent most part of that night ; and when he returned home he threw a thick sheet over her, which he had with him, saying she must be cold, and that he was going to her village, and she must follow. On this sheet were large patches of blood, which she had not observed at night ; but she had given it to the police when they came in the morning. I had sent the sheet to Hyderabad in order that the blood-stains might be analysed ; but it could not be proved that the blood was human, and the male pris- oner swore that it was that of the kid which he himself had kiUed for the feast. There was a great deal of circumstantial evidence in 1856.] TRIAL FOR MURDER. 269 the case ; but it was impossible to convict the prisoners upon this only, and they were very ably defended by a native advocate. When the defence was closed, I was on the point of recording an acquittal, although I was inwardly sure the prisoners had done the murder ; and I had taken my pen in hand to write, when the woman, a tall masculine figure, began to beat her breast, and cried out with a loud voice — • " Stop, Sahib ! do not write ! You do not know the truth; you would write what is wrong. All that my advocate and the witnesses have said to you is false. Lies ! lies ! lies ! I did the murder, and " (pointing to the nephew) " he helped me ! He knocked him down with a big stone, and then we killed him between us." It was quite in vain that I cautioned her that this confession must be made use of against her if she per- sisted in it. She only said the more — " Lies ! lies ! — we did it, he and I, and he will tell you so himself. Is it not all true ? " she said, turning to the other prisoner. "Don't be ashamed of it. Speak the truth before God and the Sahib." " It is all true," said the young man, quite calmly — " quite true ; and I wiU tell how we did it. Was I not his heir ? and he had always denied me my share because he said he would have children by his new wife. Could I bear that. Sahib ?" "Could I bear his leaving me for a wooden-faced girl?" cried the woman, beating her breast violently. " No, no ! I did it ! I did it ! I and he ; and if he were alive now, and we two were free, we could not let him live. Take down all I say!" she shrieked— "take it all down, and hang me afterwards, for my heart is burning ! burning ! burning ! " 270 STOliY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xm. I recorded their confessions, which were long and very circumstantial, not only corroborating the evidence in every material point, but explaining how the murder had been long planned, — how the woman had engaged five men of a village in the British territory to do it, and had given them two rupees each as earnest-money ; but their courage failed them, and they had given the money back to her : then, as she said, there remained no one to do it but her husband's nephew and herself. After all was recorded, I passed sentence of death upon both. The proceedings were sent on to the Sudder Adalut or Supreme Court of Calcutta, the sentence con- firmed, and the horrible pair hanged together. I shall never forget the look and action of that woman as she cried out to me "not to write," and poured forth a torrent of confession which she could not repress. In another case of dacoity which followed, the clear evidence of the widow of the owner of the house attack- ed, who was a young and very beautiful Brahmin girl, affected me very deeply ; and the subject of that trial forms the opening of my romance of ' Seeta.' The deposition of Seeta given at the first inquiry is that of the Brahmin widow, with very slight alteration. Indeed my operations against the dacoits of my district were beginning to tell heavily upon them. One large gang, very notorious in 1827-29, were at length brought to justice, and stolen property to a very large amount was recovered from them and recognised. A zemindar of the adjacent British province, a great man in his way, was also tried and convicted on many charges of dacoity, and was sentenced to fourteen years' penal servitude ; and these instances of conviction, and many more, purged my province of dacoits. 1867.] CAVE-TEMPLES. 271 New- Year's Day of 1857 found me at Nelingah, where I had been for two days. All was now very prosper- . ous, and the crops were splendid. Every one was in good heart, and applications for waste lands were very numerous ; in a comparatively short time none would remain to be taken up. My new assistant, Temple, had gone to work steadily, and was studying Mahratta with every prospect of becoming a proficient. He liked the people, and they liked him ; and, as I had before done with Cadell, I made several yearly settlements to show him how the work was done, and he was a very pa- tient and good-tempered scholar. He had been with me on the Hyderabad road so far as it extended, and he completed the survey of two branch lines to Nelingah and Sowara to Latoor — all of these I left to him to look after, as he could afford the time ; but the works were making rapid progress everywhere. From Nelin- gah I went to Kharosa, half-way to Owsa, as I was very anxious to see some Hindoo cave-temples of which I had heard a good deal, and none of the archaeologists of Bombay seemed to know anything about them. I found them well worthy a visit — excavated in a cliff of laterite or coarse stone ; but some of the pillars left were richly decorated with carving, and several of the halls of the temples were large and airy. The whole were a miniature, apparently, of the caves of EUora, but very humble copies of these noble temples ; and though there did not exist even a tradition of their origin, I concluded they must have been the work of the Eajahs of KuUianee — either the Chalukyas, or their successors the Yadavas of Deoghur or Dowlatabad. I could discover no inscription to copy and send to the Asiatic Society of Bombay, but I measured the temples 272 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xul and sent plans of them, as I did also those of the fine Buddhist excavations near Daraseo, which in many respects were very remarkable, and had been previously unknown. The day I arrived at Kharosa I received the melan- choly intelligence of the death of the Kesident, Mr Bushby. He had over-fatigued himseK when out on a country excursion, and brought on an illness from which he never rallied. I regretted him very much ; for although we had had some differences of opinion on various local questions, yet to me individually he had been kind and encouraging. We corresponded constant- ly, and he was ever urging me on to attempt and begin further public works, and expressing satisfaction at the result of those already completed. It was impossible to conjecture who might be his successor. After staying a few days at Owsa, for the trial of the prisoners confined in the jail there, I went by the new line of road to Sowara and Nuldroog. This latter por- tion was quite finished, and measured 24 feet in width, looking like a good gravel-walk the whole way. This had before only been a rough track for carts, indeed sometimes merely a path winding among the great basalt boulders. At Nuldroog, the first building I had used as a jail was now too small, and I began enclosing the large magazine with a wall 21 feet high and plas- tering it inside. There were then 400 prisoners in the jail, and I had established a school of industry, which was going on well. Some of the prisoners were mak- ing rope and tape, others weaving, and more manu- facturing carpets of strong cotton— some of these were very pretty, and showed much skill. Nor did I allow the women to be idle ; they made various articles in 1857.] MORE SURVEYS. 273 a kind of knitting which was taught them, and other sorts of work. The prisoners were likewise set to build the new jail wall, and were useful in a multitude of ways. After a good look round Nuldroog, just to see that all was right, and testing all the surveys of villages within reach, I went on to Sholapoor for a few days' rest, and to indulge myself in a little music ; and I promised to go there for a long visit during the rains, when I could not move about my district. My friend the surveyor-in-chief was not at Sholapoor, but Lieut. T. of the Artillery, who had belonged to the Trigono- metrical Survey of Scinde, accompanied me to Toolja- poor, bringing his theodolite with him. He was curious to see what I was doing, and he remained long enough to test my surveys of several large villages — all of which, I am glad to say, he found correct. I asked him to make a report to me on the subject, which he did, explaining in detail the tests he had made, and their results, which I sent on to Mr Maltby — and if the Commissioner had any doubt about our work, I knew this report would remove it ; but he wrote word that he was sure we were fully able to carry it on correctly ; and I was rejoiced to find that my plan of using the plane-tables was turning out so thoroughly successful. I had now leisure to make measurements for the completion of the noble embankment at Bhatoree, which was one of my principal projects. The high-water level showed an area of upwards of two square miles ; the water would have an average depth of 25 feet, and the irrigation channels on the right bank of the stream would carry water to Ahmednugger itself, which needed S 274 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xhl it sorely. This great work had been begun, according to tradition, by Salabut Khan, the great Minister of Ahmednugger, who died in 1588, and whose mauso- leum overlooks the admirable site for the lake which he had selected. As each would benefit alike by the work, the Nizam's and the British Governments were to share its expenses ; and I was so anxious to see it put in hand, that I worked very hard at all the plans, sections, and surveys. Bhatoree was one of the most delightful of all my villages, and I had constant visitors from the cantonment. Lieut. Cotgrave of the Engineers, with an assistant, was sent to help me. Between us all, we finished what we had to do ; and the cross-levels of this basin gave a result of upwards of sixty millions of cubic yards of water-storage, while the expenses of the work would be comparatively moderate. Mr Cotgrave had not had experience of tank-engineer- ing, but he very soon took in the project, and entered into its details with great spirit and zeal ; and on look- ing into the particulars of the former portion which had been completed, we were both exceedingly struck by the profound science which had been evinced by the ancient Mussulman engineers. A survey of the high watershed lying between' my district and the great valley of the Godavery river was necessary in order to calculate the amount of rainfall for storage in the large tanks I had proposed ; and I began this from BhS,toree, and finished about 100 square miles of it, which all fell into the basin I had tested when I came first to the district. I had now gained the amplest data for irrigation pro- jects both here and at Bhatoree ; and when I should find leisure to do so, would submit them with my ad- 1857.] REFUGE IN HOT WEATHER. 275 ministrative report. How anxious the people were for water ! — not only for cultivation, but for their cattle ; and what noble memorials would these works be of our rule in the province I I had discovered among the hills a refuge in hot weather — a village 2470 feet above the sea-level by barometer and boiling-point of water. I did not leave it till the end of March, and then it was quite cold at night and very agreeable during the day. The scenery was beautiful all along the mountains to Ahmed- nugger westwards, and over my own district eastwards j while to the north lay the wide plain of the Godavery, and Aurungabad and its hills beyond. Even with the naked eye I could see the glitter of the marble dome of the great tomb of Aurungzeeb's daughter in the far distance, and of other domes and minarets in the city ; but my time was up — I had to meet my assistant Palmer, and to lay out a new piece of road south to Daraseo and north towards the city of Beer. After aU was done, the rainy season would begin, and we should assemble at Nuldroog. My plans were changed by a note received from Colonel Davidson, who, it appeared, was promoted to the vacancy at Hyderabad, and sent me word that he should be at Nuldroog on the 12th April. I received his note while at Manoor on the 6th, and I had 120 miles to travel over as best I could in order to meet our new chief, who was an old friend of mine. By relays of horses, and a palankeen from Tooljapoor, I managed to reach Nuldroog on the morning of the 10th, as the sun was rising, and I found everything looking very nice. Next day at 4 a.m. the Eesident arrived, and I was very glad to welcome him, and to congratulate him on his new appointment. He had been overworked at Baroda, 27G STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xul and looked ill ; but the offer of the Hyderabad Resident- ship was too temptmg, and he had abandoned his pre- vious idea of going on furlough to England for a few months' leave, until he should have established himself in his new position. As soon as it was light, he asked to be shown all over the fort, expressed his approval of the new jail, and heard all about my schemes for roads, and aU the irriga- tion projects, to which he promised his help and coun- tenance, declaring that one of his first undertakings at Hyderabad would be to complete the road to a junction with my frontier. I explained the progress of the survey, and, in short, everything connected with my work in all departments, and he had not one single objection to offer to any of my plans. He stayed with us till the evening, Temple having ridden in from Owsa during the day ; and we then sent him on, with our hearty good wishes for a safe journey, and after this relapsed into our usual monotonous routine of daily work. I returned to my camp, and made surveys and plans for the last large tank I had to prepare for execution in the ensuing year. It would collect the drainage of 57 J square miles ; would have an average depth of 24 feet, and an area of 13J square miles ; and would, when com- pleted, be a truly noble work. On my return to Nuldroog, my assistant Baba Sahib had met me at Daraseo, and in course of a conversation which we held privately, he told me that very disagree- able rumours had been flying about that disaffection prevailed in the British territory, and that it was reported an attempt would soon be made to turn the British out of India altogether. 1857.] THE FIRST WARNING. 277 I had heard this myself, but it had made no impres- sion upon me. Who could or would think it could be true, while the whole of India lay apparently in pro- found peace? Who could dream of any rising? " Do you remember," said Baba Sahib, " the anony- mous letter sent to you by the Bombay Government some time ago ? I think it was in February ; that was a warning, and kindly meant, though it sounded rude and insolent. Now the almanac for this year 1914 is most alarming ; it goes back to the ' hundred years ' of the battle of Plassey, and declares that the rule of the Company must come to an end in bloodshed and tumult. This is what is disturbing men's minds, and we must be very careful. When I saw the almanac for the year, I had almost determined to write to you to have it stopped, and prevent the public reading of it if possible ; but I knew that you would say such a step would give it too much importance. Do you not hear ugly rumours yourself?" I scarcely liked to confess that I had ; but since Feb- ruary I had been receiving several anonymous letters sent through the ordinary post, with various post-marks, all warning me, as a friend to natives, to take furlough to England and join my family, and leave the district to its fate. They were worded mostly in this way : — "Although you have many friends, and the people worship you, you have still enemies who wiU approach you when the time comes, and you will never know who strikes you down." All these letters were marked " private," or "to be read by himself," and, like other anonymous produc- tions, which were common enough, I had read them and then torn them up. I had not the smallest fear of the 278 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xih. people in my district ; but these letters, taken in con- nection with those which had been sent confidentially to Lord Elphinstone, had more effect upon me than I cared to acknowledge. The advent of 1914 had been preceded by fright- ful cholera and floods in Bengal, discontent about the greased cartridges, and the mutiny of the 19th Bengal Native Infantry ; but such events seemed to have no possible connection with the general uprising of the people ; and even if, in Bengal, they were suspicious of infringements of caste, what could that possibly have to do with the peaceful and apparently loyal farmers of the Decoan? In Bengal, however, there now appeared to be real alarm. Lord Canning's proclamation of May 16th proved that there was, as there seemed to me to be, direct sympathy between what the people of Bengal were warned of by Lord Canning and what I knew was be- ing felt all round me. I could only infer that the evil prophecy of the curious almanac, the same in purport everywhere, had in reality disturbed the minds of the unthinking and superstitious. What could be done ? I heard the same apprehensive reports from Hyderabad. The Eesident and others wrote to me about them ; and from Ahmednugger, Sholapoor, Berar, and other local- ities, came the same tidings : and out of all the letters which reached me and Temple, there was scarcely one which did not make some reference to the subject. I confess I was considerably relieved when I received an order to remit all the money I had in the treasury to Bombay for the Persian war. I felt, in any case, it was better to be without it. I well remember the receipt of the "Extra" from 1857.] THE MUTINY. 279 Meeriit of the 11th May. Who that was in India at that time can forget it ? One could not but shudder at the awful news ; but there arose a hope that it might only be a local mutiny which could be checked without spreading further, and that peace would soon follow ; and yet, if common precaution had been taken at every station as early as February or March, before the evil wind of 1914 began to blow, many and many a valuable life would have been spared. Now it was too late, for throughout the Bengal army disaffection was widely prevalent, and was beginning to bear fruit almost day by day everywhere. Warnings had not been wanting. Friendly natives had endeavoured by many means to put Englishmen on their guard ; but no hints were taken, no precautions used, and the blow fell at last. I cannot find my usual statement of revenue and cultivation for this official year 1856-57, which would have given the details of each department. I only find in a letter to my father, dated June 4, that the net amount of revenue was 919,000 rupees in round num- bers, and that the 40,000 rupees lost by abolition of customs duties had been nearly made up. The increase in cultivation had been very nearly 35,000 acres in the year, which, together with the previous in- crease, made a total of 219,000 since the cession. 237 miles of road had been completed, and much more had been surveyed, marked out, and was in progress. The survey showed a result of 260,000 acres com- pleted ; and the surveyors, who could not do field work in the rains, were now occupied in making fair copies of village maps and registries. These maps were most creditably executed, and some of my pupils evinced decided talent as draughtsmen. 280 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xiil The question of land-tenure was a very puzzling one to arrange, but I could see plainly the advantage of settled classes, and of giving them security of tenure, in order to induce the employment of capital, and the improvement of their estates ; and I proposed that all holders of land should be made proprietors, and that the land should be not only actual property to aU, but that it should be allowed to be bought and sold or mortgaged like any other marketable commodity. Also, as the lands in all surveyed villages had now been defined, that the owners and occupants should have the option of taking out title-deeds for them, on stamped paper, which at the head should have a map of the land or estate, whatever it might be, great or small ; and that in the body of the deed the boundaries and general description of every field or division should be detailed, the estate to become the hereditary property of the holder, subject only to a lien on the part of Govern- ment. I fixed the term of thirty years for the first settle- ment of revenue, at the expiration of which period a revision should be made, and the rent fixed as a perma- nent settlement in perpetuity. When all my rules were drawn up and completed, I made a translation of them into Mahratta ; and having assembled the chief men of villages, the ofiScers and mirasdars, as well as other landholders and occupants, as many as would attend, I laid before them the paper I had drawn up, telling them what I proposed to do if permitted by Government. At first anything so definite and so valuable was doubted, and I believe the people, who had all through their lives been under a system of exaction and oppres- 1857.] SETTLEMENT OF LAND. 281 sion, thought there was some dark sinister plan lying below the surface ; but when they came fully to com- , prehend the projects laid down, and received my assur- ance that title-deeds would be given for all lands, even the smallest holdings, the delight (for I can call it nothing else), the enthusiasm, and the gratitude of the people knew no bounds. It seemed to all as if a new life were opening before them — peace for themselves, and their descendants after them. The Supreme Government had proposed to make a settlement of my Province on the same system as had been adopted in the North- West Provinces, and I had to fight a very hard battle with the authorities to gain my point. I believe I was considered " most impracticable and obstinate," and incurred, I have little doubt, much iU-wiU ; but for that I cared absolutely nothing. I could not uphold any system that I believed would be an injury and a wrong to my people, or become a party to any course which I considered was not only unjust and unpopular to the last degree, but which would abolish all those ancient hereditary tenures to which the people had clung with devoted pertinacity through aU revolutions and vicissitudes for many centuries, and which the old Mussulman kings and rulers of the Dec- can had continuously respected. My view of this question was very strenuously sup- ported by my friend Bullock, Commissioner in Berar; and, in the end, I rejoice to say that we so far prevailed as to enlist the sympathies of our Chief Commissioner on our side, who earnestly protested against the system proposed from Bengal, and was successful in his opposi- tion, inasmuch as the question was deferred for " future consideration." 282 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xin. In writing the ' Story of my Life ' I cannot pass this question over without notice, as it was a point on which, firmly believing myself to be in the right, I de- liberately risked not only the goodwill of the Govern- ment of India at that time, but my own employment as Deputy-Commissioner. I would never have agreed to carry out the unjust measure proposed in ignorance of local tenures by the Government of India, and my friend Bullock and myself were prepared to have resigned our appointments in case stringent orders were issued. on the subject ; and there is no act of my public life which, to this day, gives me more sincere pleasure and satis- faction than my successful resistance to the orders of Government to the settlement being made according to the North-West system. It was hoped the Mutiny would be confined to Ben- gal ; but very early in June the regiment of cavalry stationed at Aurungabad, or a portion of it, was de- cidedly in a mutinous condition, and was, perhaps, only checked by the attitude of the infantry and artillery who were loyal. Application had been made to Ahmed- nugger for assistance, and the General marched at once upon Aurungabad with part of a dragoon regiment and some horse-artillery. Hearing of their approach, some of the native cavalry broke away at once, and proceeded to Hyderabad and Hominabad, exciting much alarm throughout the country. The dread was great lest the whole contingent might be infected with the spirit of the army of Bengal, for most of the Contingent infantry were from Oudh, and thus their example might have spread to the Madras army ; happily, however — most happily and providentially — the Contingent remained otherwise firm. 1857.] UNEASINESS. 283 The re-establishment of a new empire at Delhi would not at all have suited the Nizam ; for his ancestors had declared themselves independent when the empire had fallen into decadence. And this consideration alone, had others been wanting, would have preserved his loyalty. It was impossible not to feel great anxiety at Nuld- roog. After the mutiny among the cavalry was known abroad, and, I think, when the mutineers arrived at Hominabad, they must have had some communication with those who were with me. They seemed uneasy for several days, and the native officer who was in com- mand seemed uneasy too ; but the men professed entire loyalty when I went among them ; and as they were quartered in the town, they could not do much harm to any one. They were watched carefully by the police. Eventually three of the troopers broke away at night and went towards Hominabad — the rest remained at their post. I had no means of pursuing the fugitives, indeed my doing so would not have answered any good purpose ; and even supposing the cavalry had come to Nuldroog, on account of its treasury, and attacked it, as it was reported they intended to do, I had ample gar- rison inside the fort, in police and infantry, to have repelled them. Tlie great gate was the only mode of communication with the interior, and the approaches on all other sides were defended by inaccessible precipices. Sholapoor, too, where the troops were quite loyal, lay within twenty-six miles of us, and a reinforcement could be obtained in twenty-fonr hours at any time if needed ; but the stout old fort no doubt induced a feeling of security which might not have been felt in less well- defended quarters. 284 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xm. On the 23d July, I was very agreeably surprised by a letter from the Chief Commissioner, Mr Maltby, inform- ing me that I had been nominated " settlement officer " and " surveyor-in-chief" to all four districts of the cession, on a salary of 1500 rupees a-month for the present, and 300 rupees travelling allowance. All my maps and proposed plans of settlement had been approved and confirmed, and I was to set about collecting an estab- lishment as soon as possible, so as to begin my work directly the monsoon admitted of my so doing. This was indeed good news ; and I looted anxiously to the time when I could surrender all revenue affairs to a successor, who I hoped would be CadeU, as he knew the district and the people so well, and all were attached to him. My new duties would be infinitely more congenial and agreeable ones to me, I felt ; and to get rid of the interminable details of revenue business would be a very great relief. I was in high spirits at the prospect open- ing before me, and at the thought that all my labour at the commencement of the survey would now bear good fruit for the people and save me much trouble. Mine was, however, " the only district in which any attempt had been made to carry out the orders of Govern- ment, and my proceedings, from first to last, had been eminently successful, and reflected the highest credit upon me." So wrote Mr Maltby ; and I was very much gratified at his kind expressions. I was quite easy about my district in every respect. The revenue would increase up to two lakhs, which would be its maximum, till the conclusion of the sur- vey ; and in all other respects everything was progress- ing steadily and well. There had not been a single case of dacoity for upwards of a year now ! 1857.] A SUEPEISE. 285 But I was doomed to disappointment, and all my pleasant dreams rudely dispelled, at least for the pres- ent, by the receipt of an express from the Chief Com- missioner, on the 24th August, informing me that I had been appointed Deputy - Commissioner of Berar, vice Bullock, who was transferred to my district ; and I was to proceed there with all possible speed. With this public notification came private letters from the Eesident and Mr Maltby, both to say that my immediate transfer was a necessity — but why, they did not tell me. Their letters urged me to make no delay whatever, and the Kesident's note was characteristic : — • "Go to Berar directly, and hold on hy your eyelids. I have no troops to give you, and you must do the best you can. I know I can depend upon you, and I am sure you will not fail me." I would have started that very day, but my camels were out grazing in the country, and Temple was ab- sent, to whom I must make over the treasury and all current business. What would come of the survey now I knew not, nor of my appointment as " settlement oflBcer." I saw the call was very urgent. It was not a time to waste words or thought in idle speculations. My duty was clear before me, and the times were too exciting to venture to ask any questions. I was, how- ever, assured that I should be promoted to be a Deputy- Commissioner of the first class on a salary of 1600 rupees a-month. It became known later that the survey operations had been suspended till more peaceful times, and all public works as well — till the present threatening aspect of affairs was at an end. On the day appointed for me to leave — the 27th 286 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xm. August — I was presented witli a public address from all the official and principal persons of the province. This ultimately received 1622 signatures, and was very gratifying to me. I had not the least concep- tion that such a proceeding had ever been intended. The address was beautifully written in Mahratta, and presented to me on a very handsome silver salver, which I now use constantly. I can never forget the scene in the public cucherry when that address was read to me. My old friend Shun- kur Rao Baba Sahib read it with the tears running down his cheeks, and there were few dry eyes among the vast crowd that had collected. The old cry, " Mahadeo Baba Ee Jey ! " was raised outside and taken up by thousands. It was the first time I had heard it at Nuldroog." I was much moved. Nothing, I thought, could exceed this simple but earnest expression of the feelings of the people towards me, and their manifesta- tion of regard and affection was very grateful to my heart ; and if I had stood between the people and wrong in the matter of land — if I had governed them justly to the best of my ability — if I had insured for them peace, and laid the foundation of prosperity, this was indeed a grateful reward — all I could have hoped or wished for on earth. That night as I left the fort and town, I found all the road and street lined with the people, cheering me with the old shout, " Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " and many were weeping, and pressing round to bid farewell ; and I was followed for more than two miles out of the town with the same cheer, by a crowd from which it seemed difficult to get away. At every village I passed through that night, and till 1857.] AN AFFECTING PARTING. 287 my frontier was reached, the village authorities, elders, and people came with their farewells and best wishes, in crowds, from all points within their reach, praying for my speedy and safe return. My departure from Shorapoor had been affecting and painful to me, but the demeanour of the people here was, if possible, more touching and affectionate. 288 CHAPTEE XIV. 1857-58. I ARRIVED at Jaulnah on the ninth day. I had intended to travel faster, but a feverish cold I caught on leaving Nuldroog, when my palankeen doors were open and a chill night wind blowing through them, confined me to my bed for one whole day and night, and retarded my progress, so that I could not make double marches. The warm greetings and farewells did not cease till I readied the city of Beer in the Nizam's dominions, — everywhere the same reception, most hearty and affec- tionate. The native district officer at Beer, on behalf of the Nizam's Government, came out to meet me with a large retinue, a distance of six miles ; and I found my tents pitched in a very pleasant garden close to the city, and a most ample breakfast cooked at the officer's house, and ready to place upon my table. He pressed me very much to stay as long as I could, but I dared not linger ; and in the afternoon I pushed on again to a village on the Hyderabad road, where there was a good bungalow. Next day I had to cross the Godavery at Shahgurh ; fortunately it was not in high flood, but it was not ford- able. Here I found all my camels, baggage-ponies, and 1857.] A TRYING MOMENT. 289 servants, clustered together on the bank of the river — the ferrymen would not permit them to pass ; and as soon as I came up there were some very ominous cries of Deen I Deen ! * while the ferrymen, who had taken their boat to some distance, waved me off. I had no escort — only four men out of twenty-four who had been sent with me from Beer ; the rest had already crossed the river. I had not brought my own cavalry escort from Nuldroog ; some of them still appeared very rest- less, and I thought it was safer to leave them where they were. As I and my servants were parleying with the boatmen, an old Byragee whom I had never seen before, raised the old cry loudly : " Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " he shouted — and many joined, drowning the Deen ! Deen ! most completely ; while on the opposite side of the river, near the town of Shahgurh, a large body of cavalry came in view, making it very doubtful to my mind what would be the next move. This, how- ever, was soon decided by one of the horsemen, the officer in command of the party, tying a white scarf to his spear, and at the same time despatching two other boats with a few dismounted men to my assistance. On seeing this, the party who had set up the cry oi Deen ! Deen ! bolted up the bank, looking sulky enough, and I saw them no more ; while the three boats took me, my bearers, servants, baggage, and camels, across the river in safety. The horsemen had been sent by an old friend of mine, the Talookdar of Umber, with orders to see me safe over the river. He did not expect me so soon, or he would have sent them before. He had heard that the Mussulmans of Shahgurh had betrayed a very fana- * "For the Faith ! " the Mohammedan call to arms. T 290 STORY OF MY LIFE. [cuap. xiv. tioal spirit, and had said I was not to be allowed to proceed ; and he feared for my safety. This escort would not permit me to halt at Shahgiirh, but carried me on to a village eight miles further, where they had ordered a small tent to be pitched for me, and there I slept. Next morning we all went on to Umber. My old friend was iU, and could not leave his house ; but he sent his son with a large cavalcade to meet me, and entertained me most hospitably all day. My friend, who was able to visit me in the evening, told me that he feared several mutineers of the Aiirun- gabad cavalry were concealed at Sliahgurh, and that a Mussulman priest had been preaching rebellious ad- dresses ; but that he should send fifty men to the cross- ing place for the protection of travellers. I left the escort here that had accompanied me from Beer. The men were sadly vexed at the scene at the river, and that they had not been with me ; but as we could not all have crossed together, I, anticipating no dif&culty, had desired them to precede me. I now dismissed them with a letter to the Talookdar of Beer, thanking him for their services. Next day I marched twenty miles, and arrived at Jaulnah. I was rather amused at the " cloud of cav- alry " sent to attend me by my old friend, whose only regret was that he was not well enough to accompany me himself. Orders had been forwarded to a Parsee merchant at Jaulnah to see that a house was ready for me ; and as the cantonment was nearly emptied of troops, there were plenty at my disposal, and I found myself located in a very comfortable well-fur- nished bungalow belonging to the Colonel of the 6th Cavalry. Here Mai or Gill, who had been for some 1857.] THE MARCH. 291 years employed by Government in copying the Bud- dhist frescoes in the caves of Ajunta, came to see me, and gave me a letter from Bullock, which had come in by express, begging me to wait for him at Jaulnah, which I was glad to do, especially as a heavy fall of rain set in, and marching would have been next to impracticable. Two days afterwards my friend joined me, and told me what had occurred. On the outbreak of the Mutiny several of his cavalry escort had broken away, very much as mine had done, and the whole district was reported to be unsound. He had asked for troops, which it was impossible to send him ; and after a very sharp correspondence on both sides, our sudden exchange of districts was peremptorily ordered. I had been told nothing of this, but had simply acted according to the short urgent letter I had received ; but the prospect of having to keep Berar quiet after what I now heard, was not encouraging by any means. I was likewise told that I must be prepared to find the internal economy of the district very irregular. When Bullock had gone on furlough to England, his successor had not carried out the general instructions promptly, and I should find the progress made slow, but he hoped I would soon set things all right ; he had begun to work hard on his return, and thought he had put matters in training. I told him he would not have much trouble with my district, as it was in capital working order ; and so we parted. This was no time to show vacillation or uneasiness, and I was determined to go through the country and among the people ex- actly as I should have done had I heard no unpleasant rumours. There were no troops to be had, so there was no use thinking about them. As much of the Contiu- 292 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xiv. gent as could be spared, and several half- mutinous regiments of cavalry and infantry, were collected at Edlabad, near Boorhanpoor, and prepared for service with (then) Sir Hugh Rose's force ; and for the time, no bolder course could have been adopted. Nevertheless, the Eesident was assailed fiercely by the press ; accused of shifting the responsibility of managing mutinous troops on others, and of ruining the chances of Sir Hugh Eose's success by placing in his rear a large brigade of the best troops in India, who could not possibly be depended on. But Colonel Davidson knew his men. He issued a spirited address to them, ap- pealing to their loyalty, and encouraging them to go forward and win fame under Sir Hugh Eose. The men obeyed ; and after the brigade joined Sir Hugh, it shared in the whole of the Central India campaign with him, and behaved well to the very last. Colonel Davidson had in view a much higher aim than merely keeping the troops employed in the field. His object was to show that the Nizam had no sympathy with the re-establishment of the monarchy of Delhi ; and that his own troops were assisting the English to quell the Mutiny, and crush the authors of it ; and in this point the Eesident's bold measure was successful beyond his hopes. On the 19th July, the Residency at Hyderabad was attacked by a concourse of Eohillas and other city fan- atics, who were easily repulsed ; but the Eesident was at issue with the Commander of the Hyderabad Subsi- diary Force, who not only differed from him on the question of retaining the Residency at all as a fortified post, but advised its total abandonment, and the location of all belonging to it within the cantonment. Happily 1857.] HYDERABAD CONTINGENT. 293 the Eesident took his own way, and he saw clearly that his desertion of the Kesidenoy would have the effect of weakening the Minister (now Sir Salar Jung, G.C.S.I.), and also the Nizam himself, both of whose lives had been threatened by fanatics. It was when it was de- termined that the Contingent Force should take the field, that my friend had applied for troops, and the utter impracticability of the request was resented. " Berar," wrote the Eesident to me, " which contains more than two millions of people, must be kept quiet by moral strength, for no physical force is at my disposal." Delhi, attacked first in June, and before which a posi- tion only was maintained till the siege began on the 1st September, was taken by storm on the 14th, but resis- tance continued inside until the 20th. Every native in India who could think at all, had. watched the pro- gress of the siege from June to September with the greatest anxiety as to which would win the victory — England or the Moghul ; and many doubted whether ' the small force of English in India could make any impression on the immense power of the native army of Bengal. And the long delay, to which they were so little accustomed in English operations generally, strengthened this feeling considerably. As I approached the head station of Berar, Booldana, I received deputations from the principal landholders, merchants, and bankers of the chief towns, who were all eager for authentic news ; but I could discover no symptom whatever of disaffection. The great Mussul- man colony below the plateau of Booldana had been one of the chief points of anxiety to my predecessor ; and, as soon as I could, I marched there, sending down a 294 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xiv. light tent before me. I gave no other warning, and was quite tinexpeoted by the native officials and my English assistant, whom I found in charge. Though my sudden appearance at the head town of their coun- try, when I had as yet visited no other, at first excited some surprise, and perhaps suspicion, we soon became excellent friends. At first I felt rather doubtful, as nobody came near me, and my servants heard very disagreeable rumours ; but at length one leading man came forward, then another, and another, I suppose, to take my measure ; and then all the people came, many hundreds, and raising the old cry, " Bolo Mahadeo Baba Ke Jey ! " which some one set up, the whole assembly joined in heartily, and proffered service whenever and however I needed it. " They would watch the fron- tier," they said ; " they would not let in Soindia's dis- affected people ; they would follow me to Delhi if I would only take them there ; they wanted no pay — only food, and ammunition for their matchlocks ; they would be true and faithful to the English," — and many more promises were made, and faithfully kept. From that day they never gave me the least uneasi- ness ; and, if I had had occasion to call them out, would, I firmly believe, have done their duty nobly. I wrote what had occurred, privately, to the Resident, by express, and I believe my despatch was a very con- siderable relief to him, as he was under great anxiety about Berar. I need say nothing upon the condition of thfe/ internal economy of Berar at this time. Cultivation and revenue alike seemed. to have declined, and did not exhibit the elasticity of Nuldroog. I had to set things to rights as much as I could, and the Commissioner wrote that he 1857.] BEKAE. 295 would come to me in January. Very hard work fell on me, as my assistants were new to the duties, and had not been trained to a regular system, which, had it been adopted from the first, would have rendered matters easy now to all. There was, too, a heavy arrear of appeals and civil suits ; but every allowance was to be made, for the territory had undergone so many changes from one hand to another ; and my friend Bullock's health having failed, and his being obliged to take fur- lough just after his appointment, had not given the district a fair chance. The climate was very enerva1> ing, and the district so extensive, that I felt very thankful my first appointment to it had been altered for Nuldroog, as I am quite sure my health would never have held out under its relaxing influence. Indeed I felt anxious now as to whether I should be able to stand it ; but this only experience would prove. Booldana was a pleasant place on the south table- land above the valley of Berar, and had been fixed upon as the head station on account of its fine climate ; foi there was the greatest possible difference in the air up there and that in the valley below. The views were beautiful down the wooded ravines, and my early morn- ing rides were far more picturesque than any about Nuldroog. But I had no time to stay there long, and, after a few days' rest, I took my establishment into tho valley, and began work in earnest. It was not by any means pleasant, as I was obliged to find much fault with the managers of divisions, who, being provided with ample instructions, had neglected to carry them out, and had neither kept their own accounts in order, nor those of the villages under them. Neither were the village books nor the records properly kept. These 296 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xiv. were matters of detail, as to which I need not perplex my readers, for, except at great length, they could not be explained intelligibly ; and if they were, it would not answer any purpose. I confess I thought I had been badly paid at Nuld- roog, having received 300 rupees a-month less than had been granted to the Deputy- Commissioner in Berar, solely because the latter had a higher revenue and population ; the area of both was nearly similar. However, it was no use grumbling now. I had done the work at Nuldroog to the best of my ability, and now I was going to try to set things straight here, and I hoped to get the district rapidly into order. As yet I had received no additional pay. I, as second-class Deputy-Commissioner, was holding a first-class district ; Bullock, as first-class Deputy-Commissioner, holding a second-class district. But we supposed some arrange- ment would be come to in time. Although both Delhi and Lucknow had been taken, yet the pacification of the country was far from com- plete ; and rebellion in the Central Provinces, close to my own northern frontier, had made, and was making, rapid progress. There was now much more alarm and uneasiness than before the taking of Delhi, which was far too distant from us to excite more than passing interest. I received many anonymous letters, apparently from friends, warning me of contemplated assassination, and stating that when I was disposed of, the native troops at Ellichpoor were prepared to rise, and, aided by the military and predatory classes of the district, would plunder the chief towns, and join the rebel forces be- yond the Satpoora range which constituted my whole 1857.] REBELLION ON ALL SIDES. 297 northern frontier. At Nimawa, Captain Keatinge had been obliged to conceal himself in the jungle, having his wife and children with him ; and they escaped al- most by a miracle. At Jubbulpore and Sanger, rebellion was at its height, not only in the mutiny of native regiments, but by the risings of petty rajahs and nawabs, and of the people of the district, always noted for their turbulent and preda- tory habits. There was hardly one spot where loyalty prevailed-; for as the regiments broke away from their several sta- tions, with or without violence and murder, as it might be, all restraint was removed from the lawless classes of the people at large, and these were every day growing stronger under the evil spirit and licence which could not be checked. On the eastern portion of Berar lay Nagpore, by no means to be trusted ; and it was owing to the large force of faithful Madras troops who were stationed there that no serious outbreak occurred in favour of the de- posed family, on whose behalf, it was reported, intrigue was busy throughout the whole country. On my west- em frontier lay Khandeish, not secure either. Nana Sahib had active agents there, as he aspired to be Peshwah ; and all the northern frontier of that province was in contact with Scindia's and Holkar's territories, where rebellion was rife. Berar was the centre of these three great provinces, which stretched across the whole of India, and formed, as it were, the barriers that were to prevent the rebel- lion from spreading southwards ; and of the three, Berar was the most important perhaps, as, if the rebels had broken through the passes of the Satpoora range — a 298 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xiv. very easy proceeding — and had been joined by the mili- tary classes and indigenous marauders of the province, it is impossible to say how far disaffection might have extended to the Nizam's dominions. From October, therefore, as the circle of war and mutiny grew wider, reaching my northern frontier, the danger increased almost daily ; and it was only the thorough attachment and loyalty of the people to the English rule which saved Berar, under God's blessing, from insurrection. I have already mentioned the goodwill and proffered devotion of the Mussulmans of the western portions of my district ; and as I travelled up the valley slowly to Akola, I was equally gratified by the conduct of the Eajpoots, who resided there in large numbers. There had been fierce and bloody feuds between these two great classes from time to time, on occasions of religious festivals ; and this seemed a good opportunity for them to break out again ; for I had literally no troops on whom I could rely, and those at Ellichpoor were more a source of uneasiness to me than anything else, as, although they were as yet orderly and quiet, it was felt that any excitement might cause them to break off and join their rebel brethren at Jubbulpore or in Central India. Their officers were very mistrustful of them, for many were from Oudh ; and who could rely on them after the mutiny of Scindia's troops and their march to join the main body of the rebel forces ? I was grateful for the attachment evinced by the Eajpoots of the Akola district, who also proffered ser- vice wherever and whenever it might be of use. All I could do was to ask their aid in watching the passes, and in apprehending parties from the north who might 1857.] LOYALTY OF THE INHABITANTS. 299 Beek to sow rebellion among us. This they promised to do ; and in two instances they actually did so, suc- ceeding in arresting and bringing to justice a number of delegates from Scindia's mutinous troops at Boorhan- poor, whom I tried and sentenced to transportation and penal servitude. And these events prevented any fur- ther attempt of the like nature. There were several petty rajahs of the mountain, tribes of Gonds who received hereditary allowances or stipends from the Berar administrators, and who were responsible for the several passes which led from the north. All these came to me and tendered their ser- vices, nor did any one case occur of disloyalty or neglect. The northern frontier was thus made as secure as I could under these circumstances make it ; but, in Colonel Davidson's expressive phrase, I was literally " holding on by my eyelids." I will not deny that it was a period of fearful anxiety. No aid could be expected from without, and the anony- mous warnings were more frequent than ever, while evil reports flew daily through the country. My servants kept a horse saddled for fne every night in case of necessity for escape. I had no guards except a few police, and I was caiTy- ing on my duties in my tents as usual : making the yearly settlement ; examining village books, district books, and accounts ; trjring appeal and civil cases ; holding criminal trials, and the like. One great bene- fit to me was my being able to speak the vernacular language, Mahratta, fluently. The people felt that I understood them, and came to me freely with peti- tions as to any real or imaginary grievance. 300 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xiv. There had been some corruption at work among my chuprassies or ofiSce attendants, which seemed to be of long standing ; and I one night overheard a conversa- tion between two of them who lay outside my tent walls, when they thought I was asleep, about division of the proceeds of their gains, upon the receipt of petitions, which would have been amusing enough but for the mischief that such extortion for presenting petitions to me occasioned. I at once adopted my Nuldroog plan, which was to have a large box fitted with hinges and a padlock : a slit was cut in the lid, and notification made that all petitions henceforth were to be dropped into it, and that petitioners were to attend every after- noon, when the box would be opened before me, and the papers publicly read. The box was placed in an open space before my tent, and was presently filled with petitions ; the two men, whose confidential talk I had overheard, were then called up. I took my usual seat outside my tent, and after addressing the crowd, I had the men's badges removed, and they were turned out of camp in disgrace. I think, nay, I am positive, that if every Deputy- Commissioner, situated as I was, had such a box, they would find it an admirable plan. It had an excellent efiect in my district, and inspired great confidence among the people. Any frivolous complaint was at once dismissed ; but many corrupt practices and griev- ances were brought to light ; and as each petition was taken out of the box, the name of the petitioner was called out, and every applicant knew that his paper was considered, and heard it read before me. A memor- andum was then written on the back, referring it to the district native officer for report if necessary. 1857.] AMONG THE PEOPLE. 301 I was now fairly among the people j and though so often cautioned and advised of danger, I felt that reli- ance on them was the safest course. Once, in a Bombay- paper, it was stated that I had been attacked and mur- dered ; but I wrote to contradict the report before the departure of the mail for England, and the dear ones at home knew nothing of it ; nor did I, as I see by my letters home, mention any current reports, and, indeed, I alluded very little to the condition of affairs at all, or my own cares. I lived, howeve , in a state of perpetual alarm, and every day added to the anxiety I endured. Every detail of deeds of violence in Central India — of which, almost daily, fresh rumours reached me, some- times very much exaggerated — the arrival of every " express," night or day, in camp — caused unavoidable excitement. Who could say what news it might not bring ? At that time all Deputy-Commissioners of pro- vinces and political ofEcers used to send such expresses, when and how they could, to each other, giving local news, and with a request that the express might be forwarded to the next authority. Many a man in India was " holding on,'' never flinching from his post, dying there bravely in many a terrible instance, or, when hope was gone, escaping with bare life, often through hosts of enemies, and thankful for that mercy. '' What if Berar should go ? " I often thought ; and how could I hope to escape ? How thankful I was that I was alone ^that I had only myself to think of ! Had I had wife and children with me, as many had, my anxiety would have been increased a thousandfold. True, my people appeared steady and trustworthy, and business proceeded as usual, as I moved my camp from village to village ; but Berar was 250 miles long. 302 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xrv. with an average breadth of 60 miles or more, and the population was two millions. Who could answer for all ? And from day to day for some months, one felt as if in the morning one might be murdered before night, or at night be dead before the morning. The Kesident's anxiety on my account seemed to in- crease ; but I assured him in my letters, which were rare, that so far I could not trace any disaffection, and that a good spirit seemed to prevail among the people, even where I had felt most uneasiness myself. Still I often longed to be in the roughest scenes in Central India rather than bear the load of responsibility on my mind day and night : it was a terrible strain upon me. I was at Elliohpoor on the 9th December, and I stayed there till the 13th. It was very cold, the thermometer showing 36° and 40° in the mornings. It was the head civil station of a subdivision of my district, and I was greatly indebted to Captain Hamilton, who superintended it, for his watchful supervision of the frontier. The people were deeply attached to him, and gave him infor- mation freely. How welcome were the large baskets of delicious peaches grown in his garden at Chiculdah, the sanitarium of EUiohpoor ! and I wished I could go up there again and revisit the old scenes. The native officers of the cavalry and infantry both visited me, and I congratulated them on the honours which their regiments were winning in Central India. They appeared to be intensely gratified at the news which reached them from time to time, both in news- papers and private letters, and at the prospect which was opening for further good service under Sir Hugh Rose, whose forces were now advancing into the dis- turbed districts. 1858.] BACK TO NULDKOOG; 303 Many of tlio men also came to me " for a talk," and raised the old cry of my regiment, which was known to all. So I hoped the disaffection of the cavalry at EUioh- poor was a groundless rumour. When the glorious news came from the Northern Provinces, the victory over the Gwalior troops at Cawn- pore, and the second relief of Lucknow, with many other successful engagements in Central India, the year 1858 opened very brightly, and with good hope that the gen- eral campaign against the rebel forces would be brought to a brilliant conclusion in a few months. Already the various combinations of the rebel army and the various rebel chiefs had been much broken ; now they were growing dispirited, and had nothing to fall back upon. When the constant arrival of troops from home made it manifest to all that England was fully roused, and was putting forth her strength and her enormous resources to save and help her sons, the hopes of the rebel leaders fell, and they felt their inability to war against her. I am not, however, writing a history of the time, — that is in far abler hands than mine. I can only relate what affected me personally. My own position was decided by the Governor-Gen- eral, who decreed, as I thought he would, that my friend was to be reinstated in Berar, and I to return to my old quarters — Nuldroog. The Commissioner, Mr Maltby, had. been at Nuldroog, had seen all my work, and ap- proved of it, and had been much struck by the independ- ent, though thoroughly respectful, demeanour of my Mahratta farmers. They had visited him freely, and assured him of their prosperity and loyalty, and he wrote me a very flattering letter on the condition of the district generally. In Berar I had done my utmost to 30i STOEY OF MY LIFE. [oHAP. xiv. redeem irregularities and reconcile conflicting accounts ; but three months had been too short a time to do all I wished, or to leave things as straight as I should have liked. Bullock was to leave Nuldroog at once, and wished me to meet him in the eastern portion .of the district as soon as I could ; and I too was anxious to get back to my old work before the very hot weather began. Berar was beginning to tell upon me ; the old fever had re- turned in periodical attacks, and I was tormented with severe neuralgia, from which I could obtain no relief whatever. I had used the hot springs at Salbudlee with some good effect, but it was not lasting, and I greatly dreaded the hot season. All the accounts had been sent in, and I found that one lakh out of two, set down for remission, was recoverable : the village books were now in order, and only careful supervision was needed. While in the eastern portion of the district, I had been able to perform an essential service to Government which had great effect on the war in Central India. One day I received an express from Colonel Hill, Assistant Quarter- master-General of the Madras army, attached to General Whitlock's force at Nagpore, which had not marched, and was not able to do so, for want of draught and carriage bullocks. He requested I would, if possible, purchase and send to him 600 at once, leaving 400 more to follow ; and added, if I could not manage this, there would be no hope of getting any except from Mysore. The Nagpore province either would not, or could not, supply them. r set to work directly. The province of Berar contains the finest draught cattle in India, and plenty were to be had at moderate prices. No sooner were my wants known than my camp was crowded with noble beasts. 1858.] CLAIM ON KIEWEE BOOTY. 305 In two days I had got half the numher, which were for- warded Tinder an escort of police, and day after day other herds were despatched ; and this enabled the siege-train and heavy stores to be sent on without delay, so that eventually the whole force was set in motion, with an ample supply of trained cattle. I received not only the thanks of the generals com- manding for this assistance, but of the Governor of Madras in Council ; and it was very clear that, if these cattle had not been sent up from the south, Whit- lock's force could not have accomplished what it did in marching upon Jubbulpore, and, by a lucky stroke, capturing the Kirwee treasures. I thought myself fairly entitled to a share of the Kirwee booty for the service I had rendered ; but it was decreed afterwards by Sii J. Phillimore, that as I did not belong to the force, " my chance, though just in equity, was not admissible." In my letters home at this period I wrote very earn- estly on the question of pressing the direct rule of the Crown in the future government of India, and that the time had arrived for a change to be made with ad- vantage.* There was a very general impression that the great Company was only a farmer of the revenues ; and while royal houses would acknowledge and respect the Crown, they would have, especially after late events, no such feeling for the Company. I suggested many other material changes as to high courts of justice and tenures of land, several of which * These letters, addressed to his cousin, Mr Henry Eeeve, were printed for private circulation, and will he found in the larger edition of this work. — Ed. U 306 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. jltv. have been carried out ; and I had the honour done me of some of my letters being read in the " House." Strange indeed was the weird prophecy of Plassey in 1757-58 1 The Company's rule was to last for a hundred years. In 1857-58 it had virtually expired, and 1859 witnessed its total extinction ! It was my intention, after leaving my friend, to go direct vid Aurungabad to Beer. Mr Maltby was now on his way to Berar, and Bullock and I moved on to meet him early in February, when he asked me to accompany him through the district, and to visit with him the caves of Ajunta and EUora, This would have been a very pleasant holiday for me ; but again I was to be disap- pointed. We met the Commissioner near Oomrawuttee, on his way to Ellichpoor, and the very next day came an " express " from the Kesident, directing me to lose not a moment in proceeding to Hyderabad on business relating to Shorapoor. I had seen by the papers a short time before, that the Eajah had been suspected of treason, and that troops had been sent to watch the eastern and western fron- tiers of his district. Now I learned that he had attacked a small force which had been ordered to Captain Camp- bell's assistance — this officer having been sent to Shora- poor on a special mission ; and the Eajah being defeated, had fled to Hyderabad, where he had been arrested. Mr Maltby spoke very kindly to me of all he had noted in the Nuldroog district, and hoped I should soon be again at liberty to continue my work there, espe- cially the survey operations. I ventured to ask whe- ther I might be allowed anything for my labours in Berar ; but he could not say — and my travelling ex- 1858.] VISIT TO HYDERABAD. 307 penses had been a very serious pull upon my resources. 1 was to receive plenty of thanks ; but although these were very gratifying, they did not pay me for the very hard work and terrible anxiety I had gone through : but — there was one comfort — I had "held on by my eyelids ! " I pushed on now by double marches to Hingolee, and thence to Hyderabad, where I arrived on the 18th March, after having travelled 300 miles in sixteen days — not very fast perhaps ; but my continued travelling had blistered my people's feet, and I could not get on quicker. I went of course to Mr Palmer's house, and found him well and cheerful ; but the Eesident would not hear of my being with any one but himself, and sent for me directly. I was very kindly received. He at once increased my pay, appointed me now Commissioner of Shorapoor, on 1800 rupees a-month, or, at the least, 1500, and said his wish was to keep me altogether in the political department. He told me aU the high ofiScials, and chiefly the Gov- ernor-General, were more than satisfied with what I had done in Berar. 308 CHAPTEE XV. 1858. The Eajah of Shorapoor was a prisoner in the main- guard of the " Eoyals " at Secnnderabad, and I went three times to see him. He had deliberately rebelled against the British Government, and was to be tried for his life by a military commission, which would shortly assemble. As may be imagined, he was deeply affected on first seeing me, and he threw himself into my arms, quite unable to speak for some time. Even the honest fellows of the guard were moved, and much surprised that my appearance should have so sudden and extraordinary an effect upon their prisoner. In appearance he was much improved — he had grown stouter, fairer, and more manly ; but though handsome, his features bore unmistakable signs of dissipation and excess, which I was sorry to see. Now, his face was so distorted with his emotions that it was diflScult to judge what it would be in repose. " appa, appa ! " was all he could cry, or rather moan, as he sat at my feet, his face buried in my lap, and his arms clasped tightly around me ; " appa, I dare not look on your face ! I have been so wicked — oh, so wicked ! I have done every crime — I have even 1858.] EAJAH OF SHOEAPOOE'S DISAFFECTION. 309 committed murder I Oh, if the earth had opened, and swallowed me up, it would only have been just. I cannot teU you aU now, ap'pa. My throat is parched, words wiU not come : but to-morrow, apipa, you will come again — do come, and then I will tell you all." It was useless to remain then, and only painful to us both. So I promised to return on the morrow, and went away. It was a sad case, and I feared there was no hope for him — none whatever. His unwarrantable disaffec- tion began with that of the Southern Mahratta country, where some of its chiefs had, as was proved afterwards, laid their plans for a general insurrection, in connection, no doubt, with Nana Sahib, and the general mutiny. in the Bengal army ; and the vigorous conduct of General Jacob alone prevented this rebellious movement. The Eajah of Shorapoor had been early inveigled into these intrigues, and was an active promoter of them. He was invited specially, as an ancient feudatory of thq Peshwahs, to join again the Mahratta standard ; and owing to his reputed wealth and the numbers of his clan, was not a chief to be overlooked by those dis- affected. If he could be induced to take the field with ten thousand men, the Beydurs of the Eaiohore Doab, of Bellary, Dharwar, and Belgaum, as well as those also of Mysore, would rise and follow him as their leader, and could plunder as they listed. His vanity and cupidity were excited, and he fell an easy prey to these representations. Even after the Beydurs of the Southern Mahratta country had received some very severe checks, the atti- tude of the Shorapoor Rajah was considered threatening 310 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [oHAP. xr. and suspicious. He had collected Arabs and Eohilla mercenaries in addition to calling his own clan together, while he was more than suspected of holding communi- cation with foreign mercenaries at Hyderabad. Those were anxious times, and it was impossible to allow any- known conspiracy to exist, without watching it very narrowly. A strong force was sent, under Colonel Malcolm, and placed about equidistant between the Beydurs of Shorapoor and those of the Southern Mah- ratta country ; Colonel Hughes, with a Madras force, watched the eastern frontier of Shorapoor ; and the Contingent troops at Linsoogoor lay, as it were, be- tween, ready to act in concert with either force, accord- ing to necessity. The Eesident, however, was very anxious to save the Eajahj and to rescue him from his evil counsellors, feel- ing a peculiar interest in the boy who had for so long been a ward of the British Government ; and early in January 1858 he despatched his assistant. Captain Eose Campbell, to Shorapoor, to remonstrate with the Eajah, and endeavour to bring him to a sense of his danger, and his promised allegiance to the British Government. This considerate kindness was, unfortunately, thrown away. The Eajah was in the hands of the worst fana- tics of the country, on all sides — even from Mysore and Arcot — and would listen to neither warning nor advice -, and at length, when Captain Campbell received an intimation from the Eajah's own servants and relatives that his life was in serious danger, the force from Lin- soogoor was ordered to support him, and arrived at Shorapoor on the 7th February, encamping near the town. A narrow valley, surrounded on all sides by lofty hiUs and rocks, was pointed out as the camping- 1858.] DEFEAT OF SHOEAPOOE EEBELS. 311 ground ; but Captain Arthur Wyndham, who commanded the force, was too wary to be misled, and moved on to an open plain, where he was comparatively safe from any danger of surprise. At night he was attacked by the Eajah's whole force of Beydurs and foreign mercenaries ; but he held his position bravely, and early in the morning Colonel Hughes, who was at Deodroog, twelve miles distant, and to whom a special messenger had been despatched, arrived with all his troops. It was very plain that had Captain Wyndham remained on the ground first pointed out to him, he would have endured very heavy loss, if not total defeat. As it was, his force suffered but little, but he had inflicted serious damage on the Shora- poor rebels. Colonel Hughes arrived early on the morning of the 8th, and he and Captain Wyndham, with their united troops, drove the Beydurs and others from the hills into the town with severe loss. Unfortunately Captain New- berry, Madras cavalry, was killed in a charge against a body of EohiUas, and his subaltern, Lieut. Stewart, badly wounded. As the city of Shorapoor was very strong, the approaches difficult of access, and the walls and bastions crowded with defenders, they did not attack it at once, but waited for Colonel Malcolm's force, which had moved close to the western frontier of Shora- poor, and had been requested to come on with all possible speed. When this reached the ears of the Eajah, and he heard also that Colonel Malcolm's force had vnth it a large proportion of English troops, who, together with two companies of the 74th Highlanders under Colonel Hughes, made a sufficiently imposing array — he saw 312 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. that there was no chance of escape except by flight; and, in the evening, accompanied by a few horsemen, he left Shorapoor, and proceeded direct to Hyderabad. He believed me to be at Nuldroog, and intended to have given himself up to me there ; but hearing on his northern frontier that I had been removed to Berar, he changed his route, and made for Hyderabad, where he arrived with but two followers left. There, having made a fruitless attempt to gain the protection of the Arabs, he was found wandering about the bazaar, was apprehended, and taken to the Minister, Salar Jung, who at once sent him on to the Eesident. As soon as the Eajah's flight became known, all the Beydurs and mercenaries left Shorapoor during the night, and dispersed, whereupon the English forces marched into the city unopposed, and found it almost deserted. Such is an outline of the occurrences that took place, and I hoped that when I next visited the Eajah, he would disclose to me all the particulars of his rebellion and the causes that led to it. I found him much calmer during our second interview, but very reserved on many points. " Do you remember, appa," he said, " that the day before you left me, you warned me of the evil people who were about me ; and you said, if I did not dis- miss them, and lead a steady life, I should not hold Shorapoor five years ; and I promised you I would send them all away, and look after my own affairs ? " " I remember it well," I replied, " and how you wrote to me and told me that you were in trouble, and would come to me ; and I sent you word to do so at once, for that I should now be near your border. But you never 1838.] INTERVIEW WITH THE EAJAH. 313 came, though I was there nearly a month, and I expected you." " No,'' he said, " they would not let me go to you, apTpa ; and if I had gone it would have been no use ; you could have done nothing. What was to be has come to pass, and I must bear my fate now, whatever it may be. When that evil wind blew, the people came and said it was the time to rise. The English had lost everything in the north, and were beaten every- where ; they could not keep the country, they said, and were flying to England as fast as they could get to their ships. This was told me, appa, by Brahmins and others from the south, from Poena, from every- where. " They promised, by their incantations, to raise me to be Eajah of all the country — from Shorapoor to Raineshwar — and if I marched at the head of my twelve thousand, they said, all the country would rise, and we should be conquerors. Then Mahrattas from Poena, from Slittara, froni Kolapoor, from Mungoond, from Bheem Eao, who had secured all the disaffected people of Eaichore, persuaded me to join them, and offered me what I pleased if I did so ; but still I did not go. I was stiU true to the English and to you. I knew I was right. I did not move a man ; nor did I allow one of my people even to go to the assistance of the Beydurs of Hulgully, their brethren, many of whom were slain. And then my people rebelled against me, and called me a ' coward and a fool,' because I would not let them go. Arabs and Eohillas now came around me, and one man, worse than all the rest, swore to me on the Koran that the Arabs and Eohillas of Hyderabad, and all the Mussulmans, had declared a crusade against 314 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. xv. tlie English; that the Madras troops would not fight, and they would all come and join me if I would rise. And these men and my own evil companions gave me brandy, and made me drunk, and they took my seal and used it, and led me into evil which I could not help, and did not know. " When Captain Campbell came to me with the letter from the Eesident, ask him whether I did not receive him with all honour and respect. But the people about me and the Hyderabad men said he was a Kafir and a Feringhee, and that he must die. Had not all true men put to death any English they could find ? And they told me about Cawnpore and Jhansi, and Delhi, and how all the English had been slain — even women and little children ; and I thought of you — and of your children — girls too, — and I was grieved ; but they made me drunk again, and they determined to murder Captain Campbell the next time he came ; but I sent him private warnings, and this I could prove to you. Ask my uncles ; ask , and , and others ; they will tell you. Ask Captain Campbell if they did not warn him. I speak no lie, why should I ? my life is not worth saving now. I have done too much crime to live ; I dare not tell you all ; you would not touch me or let me come near to you. appa, appa ! why did you leave me ? If you had stayed with me, aU would have been well ! I tell you, if Captain Campbell had come to me again, no one, not I myself, could have saved his life ; the men who were to cut him down were standing ready : but he attended to my warnings, and was saved. " Then the troops came, and when I heard the first gun fired at night, I knew all was gone. I had no faith 1858.] THE EAJAH'S STOEY. 315 in my people's courage, although I had not been able to stop their madness, and I went up to a bastion and stood there all night. They told me — what a lie it was ! — that the Linsoogoor troops had lost their officers and fled ! but when I saw, as day broke, the whole force and the English soldiers driving all my people before them into the city, and a shell burst close to the bastion where I was, killing some, and wounding more — ah ! why did it not kiU me? — when I saw this, I say, 1 knew there was no hope left, and I thought to myself, ' I will go to appa, and give him up the Sumusthan to do with as he pleases.' "I told Eungama (the eldest wife) to hide herself, and to tell the others all to hide for the night, and get on as well as they could to Nuldroog to you. When I got to Narribole, I heard you had gone to Berar, and I turned through the hills and across the jungle to Hyd- eradad, riding the horse you bought for me. This is all my story, appa ; it is true, all of it. If I can remember any more you ought to know, I wiU tell you. I wish you to know everything." Hours had passed while he poured out this tale ; hours of intense suffering to him, and bitter self-re- proach. Sometimes he would stop, and throw his arms round me passionately ; sometimes kneel beside me, moaning piteously ; again he would burst into loud hysterical sobs which shook his frame. I did my best to soothe him, and gradually he gave me the details narrated above. I have given only the heads, which I took down for the Eesident's information. It would be impossible to remember his wild incoherent exclama- tions, his sudden recurrence to old scenes when he had played as a child about me, with his sisters ; of the en- 316 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. joyment they had had in the magic lantern I showed ; of the little vessel on Bohnal Lake, and the happy expe- ditions there : and all those recollections of his innocent early life, made the scenes through which he had lately passed the more grievous and full of reproach. I asked him if he would like to see the Eesident, who had promised to accompany me on my last visit to him if the Eajah wished it. To my surprise, he drew him- self up very proudly, and replied, haughtily — " No, appa ; he would expect me to ask my life of him, and I won't do that. TeU him, if you like, that if the great English people grant me my life, I and mine will be ever true to them ; but I deserve to die for what I did, and I will not ask to live like a coward, nor wiU I betray my people." I think this speech, which I reported word for word, pleased the Eesident better than anything he had heard of the Eajah before. " The poor lad has spirit in him," he said ; " and I wiU not forget aU you have told me of him.'' I went once more to see the Eajah, the day before I left for Shorapoor. I should soon see his wife and his other relations, and I wished to know whether he had any instructions or messages for them. He was calm, though he could not repress his old loving ways to me — but very quiet. I told him I was going by ddk to Shorapoor. " What could I do for him there ? " " Appa" he said, " you remember once I said to you, that the British Government should have Shorapoor if I left no heir ; and I have none. I only wish now I had written this down ; but at that time I had hope still : and I wish now to say, that I want you to have it your- self ; the people love you, and you must never leave it. 1858.] THE LAST INTERVIEW. 317 I will write this with my own hand, if tliey will give me pen and ink and some paper.'' " No," I said, " it could not be as you wish ; and besides, the Government may pardon you when all is known.'' " And spare my life ? No — I will never ask it." " That would not save it," I answered. " If Govern- ment is merciful, they wiU give you your life freely, without your asking it." " What do you think, appa ? Shall I have to die ? " he asked. " I think so," I said. " It would be wrong in me to give you any false hope, or to raise the slightest shadow of one in your mind. Many have been false who should have remained true, and you were a child of the English." "Why do you reproach me?" he asked. Badly. " You know all ; it was not of my own will, when I was in my senses, appa." " I do not reproach you," I said, " for I do know all ; but those who will try you do not. Speak the truth be- fore them boldly, and exactly as you have done to me, and send for me if you think I can help you." " I will surely tell all," he answered calmly ; " but if they press me to disclose the names of those who incited me, I shall be silent. Government is powerful enough to crush them if they rise. But what can they do? Was I not the strongest among them? And yet, where am I now ? Shall I, who have to face death, be faithless to those who trusted me months ago ? Never, appa ! I would rather die than be sent over the black water, or shut up in a fortress always. Suppose they sentence me to that, I could not bear it. No ; the 318 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. xt. meanest Beydur could not live if lie were imprisoned — and shall I, a Rajah?" " If you have to die," said I, a good deal moved, for there was much nobility in his speech, " die like a brave man." " I shall not tremble when they tie me up to a gun," he answered, gravely. " If you could be near me to the last, I should be happier. Only one thing, appa — do not let them hang me. I have done nothing to be hanged for, like a robber. Tell the Resident that is all the fav- our I ask. Promise me to tell him.'' And I promised. " I have nothing now to give you, appa" he con- tinued, " They have taken away all I had, even my amulets ; but take what you will at Shorapoor, in re- membrance of me. As to all my people in the palace, they are yours ; and you will care for them, I know. I shall never see them again now. I ask nothing more.'' Then, throwing himself into my arms, he clung to me for a long time, silently ; then kissing me gently on the forehead, he said — " Go, appa — go now. I shall never look upon your face or hear your voice again ; but I am thankful to have seen you. Tell them all that you have been with me, and that I was not a coward." And so I left him, among the men of the guard, who looked on with kindly wondering eyes. " He was very fond of you, sir,'' said one of the ser- geants, as I passed out, " and before you came was ask- ing for you constantly. You must have been as a father to him." "He was like a child to me," T said, "till evil people came between us, and temptation proved too strong for him. Now, I fear, it is too late to help him." 1858.] FAREWELL. 319 I told the Eesident all that had taken place, on my return, and all the Eajah had said, especially ahout his not wishing to make any disclosures that would impli- cate his associates ; and he respected the poor boy's reticence on these points. ", We will save him if we can, Taylor, when the time comes," he said. " Just now, things must take their course. But I am sure there is good stuff in the lad ; and if we can save his life, he will be all the better for this experience." My bearers to Shorapoor were laid ; my servants and baggage had preceded me by some days — and they would, I hoped, have all ready on my arrival. Mr Palmer had no hope of the Kajah's life being spared, but he took a great interest in him, and only feared that his death might be considered necessary as a warning to all the plotters in the South, of whom, no doubt, there were many, though there had been no actual rising ex- cept the unimportant one at Hyderabad, and the intrigues in the Southern Mahratta country before mentioned. I bade all Hyderabad friends farewell on the 30th March in the evening, and went on by stages to Shora- poor, putting up in the villages during the day, for it was too hot to expose myself to the sun. The nights were, fortunately, cool and pleasant still, and I hoped to arrive at my long journey's end by the 3d April, when I should have travelled over 500 miles. I reached the Bheema river on the morning of 3d April, long before it was light, indeed not long after midnight, hoping to get into Shorapoor soon after day- light ; but it was quite impossible. I found the river- bank crowded with people from all the villages round, come to welcome me back again to my old scenes, and 320 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xt. I had to wait to exchange greetings. Very warm and affectionate they were. " Now," they said, " they would have no more fears ; all would take up their lands and go to work quietly, so long as I remained with them : " and I assured them I should remain. All the head- men, patells, and putwarries, all the principal farmers and traders, assembled to give me the first greetings ; and they told me the road was lined with crowds from all the country side. Many had been waiting for days, as it was reported I should arrive sooner than I did. When I could get away from these, I passed on in the same manner from that village to the next, always with crowds running beside my palankeen, and a blaze of lights carried by the village torch-bearers. Now I had to stop while some old friend dismounted from his horse or pony to embrace me or kiss my feet ; and again, when village authorities came out to meet me with their simple offerings and libations of water. I could, in truth, have dispensed with the crowds, for the dust rose heavily in the air, and there was no wind to scatter it, and the torches increased the heat perceptibly, while to sleep was out of the question. When day broke, the throng seemed greater and greater — men, women, and children pressing on my palankeen to touch my feet, or even my clothes — and, as I neared Shorapoor, vast numbers, apparently thousands, came out to meet me, and my bearers could only advance at a slow walk, often being obliged to halt altogether. So through the first suburb and up the steep road to the city, amidst shouts of the old cry of " Mahadeo Baba," the scream of pipes and Beydurs' horns, and thumping of big and little drums, I was conducted into the first street, where further progress was clearly impossible. 1868.] RECEPTION AT SHOEAPOOE. 321 I had never before seen even this excitable people so frantic ; women weeping passionately, grasping my hands, kissing my clothes, or touching my feet — crying, " Oh, you are come again ; we see you ; we shall suffer no more ! " They raised their children above their heads and showed me to them, showering blessings on me the while. The terraced house-tops were full likewise, and the shouts and cries quite indescribable. It was now eleven o'clock, and my slow progress through the town occu- pied almost an hour more. The sun was blazing hot, and I was faint and wearied out ; still the showers of garlands, the handfuls of sweet powder and dyed rice, thrown on and over me, continued till I was close to the palace guard, when my bearers turned in, and I was free. Captain Wyndham and all the officers had been most anxious, especially when the shouts were heard as I entered the streets ; and my delay was so unaccount- able that they feared I had met with opposition, till they were assured I was only " being welcomed," and therefore abandoned their idea of sending a troop of cavalry, which they had ready, to my assistance. I had never dreamed of such a welcome. It was intensely gratifying, and I was deeply affected by the feeling displayed by all, which could not be mistaken. Captain Wyndham and others had seen something of my reception from the roof of the palace, and had wondered not a little, as I had myself. It proved, at any rate, that I was not forgotten ; and I thanked God for this from my heart very gratefully. The English officers congratulated me very warmly. I was very glad of a refreshing bath and a substantial X 322 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. breakfast, which had been got ready for me ; and then I lay down to have a sleep, which I needed much after the night's work. When I awoke, several old native friends were waiting for me. We were located in the new palace I had built for the Eajah, which afforded good airy shelter for us all. The large upper room was the " mess " and public room, and soon all the male members of the Rajah's family and State officers assem- bled there — Pid Naik's sons, their uncles, and great- uncle. All were as much concerned as I was at the unex- pected events which had led to my second arrival at Shorapoor ; but they told me that for more than a year past they had lived in perpetual alarm at the conduct of the Eajah, who seemed to have become quite deranged by constant intoxication. In the evening I went to see the Eanees who had assembled at the house of the father of the eldest Eanee, close to the palace. As may be imagined, it was a sad and trying scene for us all. I could not either console them or hold out any hope that the Eajah's life would be spared. They had, too, lost all they possessed except the few ornaments they wore. When the Eajah had desired them to escape the night he fled, they had gone out by the northern gate on foot, and made the best of their way to villages, where they were sheltered by the people. Some few women-ser- vants followed them ; but when they heard the Eajah had gone to Hyderabad, and was a prisoner, they took advantage of a proclamation issued by Captain Camp- bell, and ventured back to Shorapoor — not to the palace, as that was occupied by troops and soldiers, but to the house where I found them. Some of their clothes had 1858.] GENERAL AMNESTY. 323 been sent to them, but everything valuable was declared prize property, and was confiscated. When the ladies grew more calm, I told them about my interviews with the Eajah, and the various messages he had sent them. They had almost expected to have heard before now of his public execution. "I could not save him, appa" cried Eungama, the chief Eanee, whom I had petted as a child — " I could not save him ; he was quite mad of late, drinking brandy those horrible men gave him constantly, which made him furious. Then when he was quiet, he used to lay his head in my lap, and call for you, and teU me he knew he should lose the Sumusthan, but that he would die like a soldier at the gates if the city were attacked. Again and again we all implored him to go to you, but we did not know you were so far away ; and he always said if he left, the Eohillas and Arabs would plunder the city, because he owed them so much — and so he stayed." According to an arrangement made with the Eesi- dent, I issued a general amnesty to all except certain persons who had been leaders and exciters of this most miserable rebellion. The people of the city and ot the suburbs were stiU in the villages to which they had fled ; but now they returned. All the shops were opened ; and in a few days the markets were fuU, and firewood, fruit, and vegetables were as plentiful as ever. Captain Wyndham's company occupied the palace, and were ordered to secure aU valuables as " prize.'' My house was tenanted by a company of the 74th Highlanders. The troops of all arms had entered the city ; but though property of every kind had been summarily looted, the people had remained unmolested. In the treasury there remained nothing except a few 324 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. State jewels ; others had been hurriedly secreted, but were returned by those who had them in charge. I do not think a single article was missing, and any coin found had become prize-money. I deeply regretted that all the old records had been either burnt or destroyed, — letters from former kings of Beejapoor and Beeder, Eajahs of Beejanugger ; of the Emperor Aurungzeeb, with the impress of his large hand dipped in sandal-wood ; of the Peshwahs, and others. Great portions of these I had already translated, and had intended to continue when I should have leisure, hoping to complete a very interesting historical State paper ; but all were gone now. The Eesident allowed me to draw on the Eesidency treasury for as much as I required, and I got bills cashed as they were wanted for current expenditure. Many of the patells and heads of villages came in during the first week and assured me as to the cultivation of the country, and that such of the newly-cleared land as could be managed would be taken up at once ; so altogether there seemed a fair prospect of revenue. The investigation upon the occurrences which led to the rebellion was cut short as much as possible. There was no good in raking up old scores, especially as the Rajah, as chief of all, had been the one responsible, and he was on his trial at Hyderabad. There was one man, a Mussulman of Hyderabad, who had preached a holy war at Shorapoor, and had been the instigator-in-ohief of much trouble, and who, in concert with a wicked Brahmin whom I remembered, Krishna Shastree, pre- tended to miraculous power and divination. These two had, by their false prophecies and mischievous coun- sels, deluded the Eajah more than any others ; and, as 1858.] APPEAL FOE MERCY. -325 dangerous characters, were worthy of death, or at least transportation for life. The Brahmin eluded all pursuit, and disappeared. The Mussulman, however, was apprehended after some time at Hyderabad, and sent to me for trial, when evi- dence was produced conclusive as to the projected mur- der of Captain Campbell, in which he was to have taken an active part ; and his own treasonable conspiracies being distinctly proved, he was condemned to death. The sentence was confirmed by the Eesident, and he was publicly hanged at Shorapoor. The great interest of the time was centred in the Eajah's fate. There was no doubt, had he been taken in arms during the attack by Wyndham's force, that he would have been at once tried and summarily executed — and even now there seemed but small chance of his life ; but the Eesident wrote to me saying he thought, if I asked it, the Eajah's life might be granted, especi- ally if I explained with what ruffians he had been sur- rounded, and how misled. I sent an " express " at once with an earnest appeal for mercy. A few hours after my arrival in Shorapoor the old Brahmin priest came to me privately. " Do you remember. Sahib," he asked, " what I once told you, and what the Eanee said when we were with her at her bedside ? " " Perfectly," I answered ; " you said the Eajah would not live to complete his twenty-fourth year, and that he would lose his country." " Yes, Sahib," he went on ; " part of the prediction is already fulfilled, and the rest wiU surely follow — it is quite inevitable." 326 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. " Do you think the Eajah knew of the prediction ? " I inquired. "If he did, it may have made him reck- " I do not think he knew it," replied the old priest ; " for the last time I saw the box it was in the treasury, with the seals unbroken, as you left it." (Captain Wyndham had secured the box, and kept the horoscope with the rolls of calculations as a curi- osity, not knowing their purport.) " We cannot say," I continued, " what may yet hap- pen ; the proceedings are not over, and the Kesident and I are both determined to save the Kajah's life if we can." " It's no use, Sahib," returned the Shastree, shaking his head mournfully ; " your intentions are merciful, but you are helpless before his fate. He will die — how we may not see ; but he must die — he cannot live. You, Sahib, and I, are" the only two living that possess this secret, and you must be so good as to tell me directly you know his sentence. I cannot believe that the Government will spare him. I firmly expect that he will be blown away from a gun." When the Eesident's letter came, I sent for the old Shastree and read it to him, and also my own strong appeal in reply. " I hope the Eajah's life is now safe," I said. " Listen to what I have written. The Governor- General, who is kind and merciful, will scarcely refuse this request, supported by the Eesident." The old man shook his head sadly. " Till the last day has passed to which the calculation extends, I have no hope," he said ; " it cannot be wrong, and but little time remains. It grieves me. Sahib, to go over the figiires again, but the present aspect of the planets is 1858.] SENTENCED TO DEATH. 327 very calamitous to the Eajah, and all through next month the combinations show extreme danger. We cannot help him, and you have done all you could ; you can do no more — only wait." So we did, anxiously. From the time I had quitted Shorapoor, no regular accounts appeared to have been made up ; but I had been joined by my old head accountant, Seeta Earn Eao, now Assistant Deputy-Commissioner, to whom I could offer better pay, and who was rejoiced to serve again under me. He knew all about the revenues of Shora- poor, and could help materially. A schedule of the whole period of the Eajah's administration was drawn out, and the result was that three and a half lakhs, or £35,000, of new debt had been contracted, while every rupee of the former surplus had altogether disappeared. We had much to do -in revising district accounts ; but all was progressing well, and my life was a very pleasant one. I had charming companions in Wyndham and his wife, who became my very dear friends, and our love and friendship will continue while life lasts. They were interested in all my doings, and it used to be a great delight to me to show them all my roads and the im- provements I had made during my residence at Shora- poor. The roads were sadly out of repair, but we scrambled over them on horseback, and I soon had them put to rights again. I could not get back my house while the 74th re- mained; but I held my cucherry in the hospital, and was constructing a large, airy, thatched barrack for the soldiers. At last the news came. The Eajah of Shorapoor nad been sentenced to death ; but the Eesident had commuted his sentence to trans- 328 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. portation for life, which was the most his power ad- mitted of. This sentence had, however, been still further commuted by the Governor-General to four years imprisonment in a fortress near Madras (I think Chingle- put). In addition, the Eajah was to be allowed to have such of his wives as he pleased with him, and his o^vn servants. If he showed evidence of reform and steadi- ness, his principality was to be restored to him. I sent off at once for the Shastree. " Listen," said I, " to the gracious and merciful deter- mination of the Governor-General. The Eajah's life is safe ; and if he is quiet and steady for four short years, he will regain his State ! What could be more con- siderate or more lenient? What becomes now of the prophecy? This letter proves it is false." " I wish I could think so. Sahib," he sighed, " and that my poor young master were really safe ; but, alas ! he is in the greatest danger. Nay, it seems closer than ever now ; but we shall see. Sahib. Sometimes a mer- ciful God puts away the evil omens just as the fulfil- ment of them is imminent. I will go and tell the Eanee this good news. I only wish the time were past, and that I could be happy in it too." The Eanee would hardly believe the message I sent her. She and the other Eanees were to join the Eajah almost directly, and were to make their preparations at once. The head Eanee, Eungama, asked me to come to her ; and when I entered, quite regardless of etiquette, she threw herself into my arms, and danced about in the wildest glee. She had expected the news of her hus- band's death when she saw the old Shastree come into her rooms, and the revulsion of feeling was almost too 1858.] THE OLD PEOPHECY FULFILLED. 329 much for her. She and one other Eanee were to go. The third was no favourite with the Kajah. A few days after, the Eesident's order finally came that the ladies were to be sent off on a certain day to meet the Eajah at Kurnool. Everything had been already prepared ; there need be no delay ; and I in- tended them to start that very afternoon. I took leave of them both in the morning, and had settled down to my work after breakfast was over. It chanced to be a day set apart for the arrangement of yearly allowances and gifts to Brahmins, and all the chief Brahmins were present, and the old Shastree among them. Several were seated at the table with me, assisting me, when suddenly I heard the clash of the express-runner's bells coming up the street. I thought it might be some message from Linsoogoor, or some new arrangement for the Eanees' departure. The runner entered the palace court, and his packet was soon in my hands. It contained a few lines only, from the Eesident : — " The Eajah of Shorapoor shot himself this morning dead, as he arrived at his first encampment. I wiU write particulars when I know them." My countenance naturally changed ; and the old Shastree, who was beside me, and had been reading over Sanscrit deeds and grants to me, caught hold of my arm, and, peering into my face, cried, almost with a shriek — " He's dead ! he's dead ! I know it by your face — it tells me. Sahib, he's dead ! " "Yes," I said, sorrowfully. "Yes, he is dead; he shot himself at the first stage out of Secunderabad, and died instantly." Then ensued a sad scene of weeping and wailing; 330 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xv. and one of my friends in tte adjoining room, hearing the tumult, rushed in, crying, " Thank God, you are safe ! I feared something terrible had happened. Why are these people so agitated ? " " It is terrible enough," I answered. " The Eajah has shot himself, and the news has just come by " Ah ! " said the old priest, as soon as he could speak, " he could not escape his fate, and the prophecy is ful- fiUed." It was, indeed, a strange accomplishment of the pre- diction. In a few days more the Kajah would have completed his twenty-fourth year ; and now he had died by his own hand ! I sent for the Eanee's father, and bade him break the news gently to his daughter. I could not bear to see the poor girl's misery, and I should have to visit her later ; so he and an old friend of his departed to perform their sad task. The day after, I heard by another express the parti- culars. The Eajah had been told of the Governor- General's commutation of his sentence, and was very deeply grateful for the mercy shown to him. He had promised earnestly to try and deserve the consideration which had been extended him, and was particularly pleased that he was to be allowed the society of his two Eanees, speaking joyously of the prospect of meet- ing them at Kurnool. He had travelled in a palankeen, with the ofiScer commanding his escort near him, all the way to their oamp. When they arrived, the officer took off his belt, in which was a loaded revolver, hung it over a chair, and went outside the tent. While washing his face 1858.] THE LAST ACT. 331 a moment afterwards, he heard a shot, and, running back, found the Eajah lying on the ground quite dead. The ball had entered his stomach and passed through the spine. Was the act intentional? I think not. He had a trick always of taking up and examining everything lying near him, more especially if it were new to him ; and he had had this habit from childhood, and I had often checked him for it. I do not think he could ever have seen a revolver — and such a weapon would be too tempting to escape notice ; he would be sure to snap it, or meddle with the lock, and the pistol may have exploded without his intending it at all. No one was with him — no one saw him,— so that only conjectures could be raised about the event ; but I, who knew him well, do not believe it was suicide. Whether accidental or intentional, the result was the same. The Eajah was dead, and his kingdom was lost, ere he completed his twenty-fourth year ; and the grim old prophecy deduced from the horoscope was literally fulfilled I 332 CHAPTEE XVL 1858-59. Towards the end of May, Lord Elphinstone and the Eesident had both been extremely anxious in regard to Shorapoor and its Beydur population, as various risings were being planned in the Southern Mahratta country. There was much disaffection in the Deccan : and I confess that, when I heard of these troubles, I wondered what my Beydurs would do : but they had received sufficient warning in the fate of their Eajah and in the prompt discomfiture of their rebellious neighbours, and not a man stirred or showed the slightest sign of in- subordination. They even assisted me materially in guarding the frontier, and the ferries across the Bheema, against the insurgents who tried to pass through Shora- poor. The Arabs of Hyderabad employed by the late Eajah were satisfied that the Beydurs would soon join them if they could only enter the country, and were not a little discomfited to find these very people guarding their country against their entrance. So, finding they could get no sympathy, all disturbance ceased, and we were once more at peace ; and I could assure Lord Elphinstone, with whom I had been in private corre- 1858.] COUNTRY STILL UNSETTLED. 333 spondence, that no apprehension of the Beydurs being induced to join the rebel party need be entertained. The victories won by Sir Hugh Eose, that of Gwalior, and the death of the Ranee of Jhansi, the capture of the Nawab of Banda and his treasure, Sir Hope Grant's proceedings in Oudh, and the seizure of Tantia Topee — all these went to prove that the power of the Mutiny was broken, and that India would soon be at peace in all its borders. How earnestly I had looked forward to this year as the one in which I should again see all my dear ones in England ! but now leave was impossible to obtain, and indeed no one would have asked it, except it were urgently needed for health's sake. Fortunately I was in too good condition to ask for a medical certificate, though at times I had much suffering. My father proposed to bring my children to me ; but in my present posi- tion I felt it would hardly do. I "had no home for them ; my work was of a very unsettled nature, and the' coun- try was still very much disturbed. I consulted the Resident ; but he earnestly begged me not to risk such a step, adding that he knew I sorely needed change, and it was better to wait another year, when leave could be obtained without difficulty. I felt he was right, and a very serious fit of illness in September warned me that I should soon need rest from work ; but I recovered, and went on as usual again. Authentic ghost-stories are comparatively rare ; but a circumstance occurred at Shorapoor which made a great impression on men's minds, and may be accepted as one. There were two companies of the 74th Highlanders at Shorapoor with Colonel Hughes's force. After the 334 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvi. place was taken, one company was located, as I have before stated, in my house on the hill, the other remain- ing in camp below the town, till they should return to Bellary. One afternoon — I have forgotten the date — Capt. , the senior officer, w;as sitting in his tent writing letters for England, as the mail letters had to be forwarded by that evening's post, and had had the side wall of his tent opened for light and air, when a young man of his company appeared suddenly before him in his hospital dress, without his cap, and, with- out saluting him, said, " I wish, sir, you would kindly have my arrears of pay sent to my mother, who lives at ; please take down the address.'' Oapt. took down the address mechanically, and said, "All right, my man, that wiU do ;" and, again making no salute, the man went away. A moment after, Capt. remem- bered that the dress and appearance of the soldier, and his manner of coming in, were highly irregular, and desired his orderly to send the sergeant to him directly. " Why did you allow to come to me in that irregular manner ?" he asked, as soon as the sergeant came. The man was thunderstruck. " Sir," he exclaimed, " do you not remember he died yesterday in hospital, and was buried this morning? Are you sure, sir, you saw him?" " Quite sure," was the reply ; " and here is a memor- andum I took down from him of his mother's address, to whom he wished his pay should be sent." " That is strange, sir," said the sergeant; "his things were sold by auction to-day, and I could not find where the money should be sent in the company's registry, but it may be in the general registry with the regiment." 1858.] A GHOST STOKY. 335 The books were searched ; the address taken down was proved to be correct, and the circumstance made a profound impression upon all who knew the facts. These Highlanders were capital fellows — very steady in a town where there were all sorts of temptations to excess. As the weather grew cooler, they got up a play — a melodrama ■^- called, I think, " The Maniac Lover," and acted it well in the cucherry. Many of the Shorapoor " gentry " and their wives being invited, the latter sat ensconced behind bamboo screens ; and although no word could be understood, the natives applauded very vigorously. I wrote a ballad, entitled the " Battle of Shorapoor," with a very long string of verses, which became exceedingly popular, and detailed the march of the troops, the fight, with various incidents, and the final discomfiture of the rebels ; and this was constantly sung with great spirit, all joining in the chorus. The men had also games of cricket, skittles, &c., to amuse them, and some were even fond of chess. The ofSoers were pleasant companions, and we gener- ally dined together. They were succeeded by a com- pany of H.M.'s 56th Eegiment in June. I laid out a new road into the town, which was about 24 feet wide and about a mile long, leading from the alley up to the north gate. Its deepest gradient was 1' in 25', and along it carts and pack-bullocks could travel easily. My plantations of mango and tamarind trees were generally thriving, and the oldest ones were now bearing fruit. Bohnal tank required no repairs, and was quite complete in all respects ; but as to the others, nothing had been done, except a little at Kuch- aknoor. No outlay upon public works had been per- mitted since I left. 336 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvi. By June all the arrangements of estates and pen- sions were reported as finished. There were objections to the Eanees receiving their estates back again, for the present at any rate ; but an allowance of £1000 a-year was settled on Eungama, and pensions on the other ladies in proportion. Rungama was very grateful ; she did .not expect half so much. I often paid her a visit, and she was gradually growing more cheerful and resigned. The year closed pleasantly to me, though I could not get leave to England ; but as soon as ever the pro- hibitions were withdrawn, I was prepared to ask for it. The survey in Nuldroog was to be carried on according to my plan, as an experiment, although my present duties did not admit of my taking up the surveyorship. The Governor-General was pleased to record of me that " Captain Meadows Taylor has been deputed to Shorapoor, where his past experience and local know- ledge make his presence most invaluable." At the close of the year 1 had a visit from the execu- tive engineer in the Raichore district, who came to look at my contemplated works, and checked the levels and surveys of the great Kuchaknoor tank. There was a slight error of fourteen-hundredths of a foot detected in the outward bench-marks of the embankment ; but in all other respects my work, even with the imperfect instruments I had used, was entirely correct. I pro- posed to go on and complete the tank ; but until some decision was come to about the principality, no public work of magnitude could be attempted. The Resident had gone up to Calcutta to confer with Lord Canning, and perhaps the fate of Shorapoor would be decided by them. However, in the end, it was left uncertain. 1859.] MORE WORK IN PROSPECT. 337 At the beginning of May 1859 I had finished my tour of the district, and made a settlement for the current year. The country was in a wretched condition. A great mass of the cultivation had been thrown up the year before. The farmers had been deprived of their best lands by the Eajah, who had given them to his favourites. There were no proper accounts, and the whole was in worse confusion than when I had first taken over charge. Numbers of families had emigrated in disgust. I could give very little assurance to any, as to future settlements ; and, indeed, I was forbidden to do so, for Government was still silent as to the destiny of the State. I did what I could, but it amounted to very little. The people would not invest their capital unless the country were to remain under British rule, and I could not conscientiously counsel them to do so. " Directly you went away the last time,'' they said, "the men about the Eajah chose the best of our newly- cleared lands, and they were taken from us and given to them. True, you have now given them back to us ; but can you assure us that the same won't happen again if your back is turned ? Let us wait and see what will happen.'' No change occurred in my position until August, when, in addition to Shorapoor, the whole of the Eaichore Doab was put under my charge; and as Eaichore had been deeply disaffected, I was desired to report upon its condition specially. I did not relish this employment; and I began to fear, too, that this accession to my duties would prevent my going to England, as I had hoped to do, the year following. I was now by no means strong, and I looked to the future with grave anxiety. With Eaichore and Shorapoor Y 338 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xti. combined, I ehould have a country quite 20,000 square miles in area under my jurisdiction, and a population hardly under, perhaps exceeding, two millions. There was but one English assistant, with four native as- sistants, in Eaichore ; but my assistant in Shora- poor, Seeta Earn Rao, was a host in himself, and I could trust that province to him with every confi- dence. It appeared, too, that I was to receive no additional pay for my extra work ; but there was no help for it. The order came, and was obeyed with the best grace I could command. I went to Linsoogoor for a few days, and there per- formed the sad and painful task of reading the burial service over a dear friend's wife, who had died suddenly, and who expressed a wish that I should be the one to perform this last sad office for her. I could not stay long, but simply took charge of the province, returning again to Shorapoor to investigate a trial for murder^a very difficult and complicated case, which no one but myself could dispose of. Captain and Mrs Wyndham accompanied me, and remained till October, when we moved out to Bohnal, to begin my tour. It was a delightful time, cool and pleasant. There had been a good monsoon, and the lake was full and running over. We had charming rides every morning over the roads, both old and new, and which were now as smooth as gravel walks. After a fortnight spent at Bohnal, where the schooner was in capital order and in constant use, we set out for the western frontier, so as to visit the great falls of the Krishna, which I wanted to show my friends. I took them also to the cairns and cromlechs I had dis- 1859.] FALLS OF THE KRISHNA. 339 covered, and we all enjoyed our holiday at the falls most thoroughly. Here the great river Krishna leaves the table-land of the Deccan, and falls, by a descent of 408 feet in about three miles, into the lower level of Shorapoor. The fall itself is not perpendicular, but becomes a roaring cata- ract half a mile broad when the river is in flood. The scene then is indescribably grand, an enormous broken volume of water rushing down an incline of granite with a roar that can be easily heard at a distance of thirty miles, and a cloud of spray dashing up high into the air ; while the irregularity of the incline, its huge rocks, and the deep holes which the waters have excavated, increase the wonderful effect of the cataract, and bril- liant rainbows flash through the spray, changing with every breath of wind. Finally, the water falls into a deep pool, which becomes a whirling mass covered with billows that, rushing in every direction, clash and break against each other, sending up great piles of foam. As a Beydur standing beside me said, " It is like all the white horses in the world fighting together, and tossing their manes into the air." Nor was the simple fellow's illustration without point. At the end of October I started on my first march to Moodgul. I dared not loiter longer, and felt I must see with my own eyes, and hear with my own ears, before I could report specially upon the district. I found a good road to Moodgul, and the canter in the fresh morning air was delicious. Moodgul is a fine old fort, built upon a group of granite rocks rising perhaps 100 feet above the plain. It had been a bone of conten- tion irom the earliest times of the Bahmany dynasty, and alternately fell into the possesRion of the Hindoos 340 STORY OF MY LIFE. [ohap. xvi or the Mussulmans, whichever chanced to be, for the time, the strongest party. Now it was considerably ruined, but most picturesque, and I explored it thor- oughly. I could only stay two days, and these were mostly occupied in inquiring into a dispute relating to a Chris- tian settlement there, which, as it involved religious jurisdiction between his Holiness the Pope and the Arch- bishop of Goa, I was incompetent to decide. The con- gregation were all weavers of blankets, and shepherds, originally converted by one of St Francis Xavier's mis- sionaries from Goa. It had been somewhat richly endowed by the several kings of the Adil Shahy dynasty of Beejapoor, and it still retained these grants through all revolutions. There were two other congregations in the Doab, one being composed of potters at Eaichore ; the name of the place of the other I forget. The church at Moodgul was a humble but respectable edifice, and service was performed by a deacon, the Mass in full being celebrated when a priest came from Goa on -his rounds. On my arrival some time after in England, I wrote to his Eminence Cardinal Wiseman about this congrega- tion, furnishing him with all particulars respecting them, and received a courteous reply, to the effect that my communication was both valuable and extremely in- teresting, and would be duly forwarded to Eome. I hoped next to visit the grand old city of Beejanug- ger, and to add some sketches to my collection. At the town of Kanakgherry the Eajah came out to welcome me, and entertained me most hospitably. Here I saw the finest Hindoo temple I had yet visited. The interior was supported by huge pillars of granite, in the form of 1859.] HINDOO TEMPLE AT KANAKGHEEEY. 341 horses, on wliicli female figures were mounted ; the frieze and ceiling were richly ornamented in carving, I do not think it is much known, but it well repays a visit. After breakfast the Eajah came to me, and Shorapoor and its affairs were the subject of discussion. " Could I give any hope," he asked, " of its being restored to the family ? would the British keep it ? or would the Nizam have it?" I could say nothing, for nothing had been determined upon. My friend, whom I had often before seen at Shorapoor, deprecated the idea of. the Nizam having Shorapoor. " Why should the people suffer mor'e oppression ? " he said. " Of course I would wish to see it given back to the family — my relatives ; but if that may not be, why should the Nizam get it? The 12,000 Beydurs would far prefer the just rule of the English, and would not revert to their evil ways under you." Such was the old gentleman's opinion, and I agreed with him perfectly ; but I had no hope of the restora- tion of the family being allowed. Pid Naik's eldest son, who was the next heir, was steady, sensible, and thoroughly loyal, having opposed his cousin, the late Bajah, in aU his insurrectionary movements ; stiU, I thought the British Government would eventually annex the State as an example and a warning to all others. From Kanakgherry I went on to Anagoondy, where the lineal descendant of the great Eajahs of Beejanug- ger resided. He had sent me a very pressing invitation to come and visit him, and volunteered to show all the marvels of Beejanugger to me on my arrival. Ana- goondy, " The Elephant's Corner," had once been a 342 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvl suburb of Beejanugger, and proved to be one of the most curious places I bad ever visited. To tbe north was a perfectly inaccessible range of bare granite hills, surmounted by piles of fantastic rocks, along the tops of which ran high walls, with bastions at intervals, in the Hindoo style. The only entrance to this labyrinth of rocks was through a very narrow gorge on the eastern side, also strongly fortified by double walls and large bastions. Passing round the corners of these walls, the ground opened out to some degree, and was cultivated, affording a lovely view of the rugged hills on the south side of the Tungabuddhra, a rough brawling river rush- ing through the valley. The Eajah had made a good road through his estate, and showed me many points which afforded exquisite views of wood, rock, and water, with the mountains in the background ; and he always stopped the carriage at these places, to show me the prospect, with evident en- joyment. He was driving a handsome light phaeton, and met me at the barrier. He was a fine active young man, with a very pleasing and intelligent countenance, and we were soon good friends. He had prepared the porch of a temple on the bank of the river for me, and I found an ample breakfast provided, and his own ser- vants in attendance. The situation of the town among these most pictur- esque piles of rook was very curious. I went to return the Eajah's visit in the afternoon, when he proposed to take me to his island in the evening. I willingly agreed. I found his reception-room nicely furnished in the English style ; and we sat chatting pleasantly for a long time. He seemed pleased to find me acquainted with his family history — their wars with the Mussul- 1859.] ANAGOONDY. 343 mans, and their final gallant struggle with the crusade against them in 1565. " Ah I " he said, " my ancestor, Earn Eaj, alone would have beaten them back ; but the coalition of four king- doms of the Deccan proved too strong for him. They are aU gone now, and have left no trace except these cities — not a soul to pray for their manes, or light a lamp in their name ; while I still am here, and represent my great ancestors as their hneal descendant. I have only the ' Elephant Corner ' of the great city to live in, it is true ; but I am quite content, and the Nizam allows me this corner and its dependencies, while the English have granted me some lands on the south bank of the river, and a pension." In the evening he came quite alone, poling a small basket-boat. " I always go down to the island by myself," he said ; " it is such good fun shooting the rapid ; but I have men there to paddle me up again in a bigger boat." I got into the little craft, and he pushed off into the stream, striking as directly across it as the current would allow. We were soon drawn into the rapid, and dashed on for a quarter of a mile at great speed — the Eajah with his long bamboo pole fending the boat from rocks on either side very skilfully, and evidently in- tensely enjoying the excitement. At the end of the shoot, we entered the still water, where the island was situated — a richly-wooded spot, laid out as a garden in the English style, well stocked with fruit-trees and a profusion of roses and gardenias, whose scent filled the evening air with perfume. In the centre was a pretty pavilion, also in the English style ; and this was, the Eajah told me, his favourite resort 344 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvi There were numbers of tame pea-fowl ; and at his pe- culiar call some cranes and flamingoes, with geese and ducks, all came flocking round us to be fed — a motley and curious collection. " These are my pets," said the Eajah, " and my children's too." When it was growing dark, his gardeners brought a large basket-boat to the landing-place, and six stout fellows paddled us up the rapid to my resting-place. I had spent a very interesting day, and my host pressed me much to remain some time ; but this was impossible — my tents had already gone on to Humpee on the south bank of the river, where the old city commenced, and I had much to see there. " If you really must go," said the Eajah, " I will take you there myself in my large boat, and you will then see the views from the river, which are very striking, and more interesting than those on the road ; but I wish you could stay — you are the only Englishman with whom I ever felt on easy terms of friendship ; and none of your people seem to know or to remember who I am."' The Eajah was punctual to the time appointed next morning, and brought a stout crew with him, as we should have to paddle up several rapids ; and before sunrise we were off. It was a lovely voyage of several miles. At each bend of the beautiful river new prospects opened, and new piles of granite rocks, some of them 500 feet in height, came in view, fringed with trees and brush- wood, which softened their grim outlines, and rendered the effects of light and shade most charming. I took many sketches from the water, while the Eajah looked on wonderingly, and longed to be able to do so like- wise. At last the " Gate of the Eiver," as it is called, 1859.] VIEWS FKOM THE KIVEK. 345 came in sight, where the stream lessens to a very narrow pass, bounded by piles of rook of the most fantastic forms imaginable ; and leaving our boat at the landing-place, we walked up to the courtyard of the great temple, in the cloisters of which I found my servants had taken up a comfortable position, instead of pitching my tents. " If I can, I will come to-morrow," said the Eajah ; " but in any case you must not go till I return. I must be with you when you go over the great temple." I promised I would stay, and he took his leave. After breakfast I ordered my palankeen, and wan- dered over the western portions of the city. I saw that the barriers of rocks extended to the south, form- ing a strong line of defence, the only aperture being a pass between them and the spurs of the Eaman Mul- lay Mountain. This was the pass by which the Bah- many king, Mujahid Shah, entered the lines of defence in 1378, and endeavoured to take the city ; but owing to the neglect of one of his generals, who had been directed to occupy an eminence to the west of the city, which was the real key to the place, and who failed in his duty, the king could only penetrate the first line of defence, where a huge image of Hunooman, the monkey-god, stands alone, carved out of a great granite boulder. The king, on seeing it surrounded by Brahmins, charged and dispersed them ; then dismounting, he struck the image with his steel mace, breaking off a portion of the right leg. " For this act," cried a dying Brahmin, " thou shalt die before thou reach the city " — a prophecy strictly fulfilled ; for King Mujahid was assassinated on his 346 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvl march to Gulburgah. In Ferishta, a vivid description is given of this battle ; and the positions occupied by the contending parties are so exactly mentioned, that they are, to this day, easily traceable. I spent all the day sketching. The Eajah's sleeping- palace was a curious conception of Mussulman-Gothic architecture, the upper rooms of which would make a delightful residence if purged from the bats, swallows, and wild-pigeons' nests. The fine tower, with a Gothic pavilion at the top, from whence there is a glorious view ; the elephant stables and treasury, still perfect ; and the ruins of the Eajah's palaces, and their court- yards, which are very extensive — with a host of other picturesque scenes, and masses of ruins, — gave me more than enough to do with my pencil and my brush. Bee- janugger is well described by the Nawab Abd-ul Buzzak, a Persian merchant, who visited the city in 1443, and resided there. His account of the population and general aspect of the city, the rehgious ceremonials, and the splendour of the king's court, are very graphic and eminently truthful. The journal has been trans- lated for the Hakluyt Society, and well repays per- usaL I have described the temple in a volume pub- lished by Mr Murray on the 'Temples of Western India,' and I endeavoured to extract my information from the most authentic sources. 347 CHAPTEE XVII. ( 1859-60. After breakfast, the Eajah arrived in his chair, which he insisted upon my using, while he took my palankeen instead ; and we set off for the temple which had been built by his ancestor, Achoot Eao, in 1534-36. Anything more exquisitely beautiful, or so wondrously finished, could hardly be conceived — except, perhaps, the temple of Nundidroog, which even excels this in some par- ticulars ; but that of Kanakgherry, which I had con- sidered very marvellous, sinks into insignificance before this. I had felt ill all day, and at last, in the middle of my drawing, such violent fever and ague came on as obliged me to give it up very unwillingly ; and as the attack lasted some hours, my sketching came to an untimely end, and I was unable to see the remainder of the temple or the east side of the city. However, before the fever began, I had managed to ascend the " Matun Purwut," a stupendous pile of rooks, by the stone steps which Lad been cut in them ; my bearers easily carried my chair, and from the top — an elevation probably of five hundred feet — I had enjoyed a magnificent view. The whole area of the old city 348 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvn. lay spread out before me — the noble temples, and their lines of building — the ranges of fantastic rocks piled on all sides — the course of the river, for miles above and below the " Gate " — and the blue Eaman Mullay Mountains, and their varied spurs, stretching away to the south. The Rajah pointed out to me all the objects of interest — the battle-fields of Mujahid Shah, and the Lake of Cumlapoor, glittering in the bright sunlight. It was indeed a magnificent panorama, and one never to be forgotten. I was very sorry to say farewell to the Eajah, whose genuine and most courteous hospitality and agreeable manners had made a great impression upon me. I had been told I should find him haughty and repellent : on the contrary, he was entirely free from presumption, full of information and intelligence, active and manly in his habits, and of very prepossessing appearance — in every respect a " gentleman," — and I was glad I had gone out of my way to visit him. One Cesar Federicke, a Venetian merchant, gives a very interesting description of the city in 1565, after the residence there of the victorious Mussulman kings for six months. He says : — " The city was not altogether destroyed, but houses still stand empty, and there are dwelling in them nothing but tigers and other wild beasts. The enceinte of the city is about four-and-twenty miles, and within the walls are several mountains. The houses stand walled with earth, and no place, saving the palaces of the three tyrants and the pagodas, other than made with earth." Evidently, therefore, the city was exactly the same 1859.] EAMANDEOOG. 349 as the Hindoo habitations of the present day, — the walls of houses being of mud, or clay and stone, and the roofs of clay beaten down — very substantial as long as the roof is good, but which crumbles away on the percolation of water. In the large volume which illustrates the ' Temples of Western India,' which I have before alluded to, many fine photographic illustrations of Beejanugger will be found, and the views of the temple of Withul or Wit- toba are especially worthy of examination. From Beejanugger I ascended the pass through the Eaman Mullay Mountain by a beautiful road constructed by the Madras engineers, at an easy gradient the whole way up. I was well enough now to ride, and enjoyed the lovely scenery to the full. At the top I found a nearly level plain, and a total change of climate from India to Europe. Eamandroog is, I believe, about 4000 feet above the sea-level, and its climate is delicious throughout the year. Even during the hottest season the sea-breeze makes its way up, and there is no oppres- sive heat. Here there is a sanitarium, and I had sent word to the medical oflScer in charge that I was coming up for advice. I well remember we had to have a fire lighted that evening as it was so chilly, and that we sat over it till a late hour most thoroughly enjoying it. How I slept that night ! All the evil demons that had been tormenting me — neuralgia, rheumatism, and all their doleful train — vanished as if by magic with the change of air. The doctor said I had been too long without a thorough change and rest from work, and that there was nothing for it but to take furlough and go home to England as soon as I could. He would not answer for my life, he said, if I remained at Shorapoor 350 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvil through another hot season. I enjoyed some days at Eamandroog very much ; my strength and appetite re- turned ; I felt fresh vigour and renewed health, and could take a good long walk without fatigue. How- ever, I might not stay ; time was precious, and I set off again to my work. At Koorgah my district work now fairly began, and was fearfully heavy, while the petitions against one grievance or another became almost too numerous to attend to or settle at all as I could wish. Here the fever returned, and I could only do my work lying on my bed, for I was too weak to sit up much, and I began to fear I should soon fail utterly. For change I went further north to Kopaldroog, a marvellous fort indeed, being inaccessible except by a flight of very rude rough steps which wind in and out among the rocks, and are in some places extremely narrow and unsafe. How many guns were ever carried up, it is impossible to say, but there were several old ones in the upper batteries. I went up this rock once, my bearers having contrived a light conveyance out of an arm-chair, and I travelled along easily. At Kookanoor, near the border of the Dharwar Col- lectorate, I found a very beautiful Hindoo temple dedi- cated to Siva. The pillars of the porch and hall were of polished greenstone, and seemed almost as if they had been turned in a lathe, the different circles of orna- mentation were so exact ; and the designs were cut out as sharply in this tough hard stone, as if they had been chased in metal. Near the town was a curious monolith of sandstone thirty-five feet in height, richly decorated, and having a figure of a cock on the top. There was a long inscription on the pillar, apparently 1859.] HINDOO AECHITKCTURE. 351 in ancient Canarese, and I regretted very much tliat no one was able to decipher it. A little further on I found another superb temple ; the ornamentation of its pillars was truly exquisite, and the designs so delicate that the various patterns were copied by the goldsmiths of the country forgold and silver ornaments. This was the limit of my district, which contained, in addition to the foregoing, many illustrations of the Jain and Hindoo architecture, dating from a.d. 76 to the 13th century. Many of their works are represented in the volumes before alluded to, but very many more certainly remain comparatively unknown. Had I been originally appointed to the Eaichore District, I should have de- lighted in making myself acquainted with all these wonderful and very curious and beautiful buildings ; but as I have recorded, my lines fell in other places, and now I had not the time to devote to them as I wished. The archaeological features of Eaichore would have supplied a noble field for research. It had been the battle-ground of the ancient western Hindoo and Jain dynasties, as well as the Mussulman and Hindoo, and each in succession had left their distinctive marks of occupation. I had now done what I could in the Eaichore Doab, and I have not described my work minutely, as it was of the same character as that I had previously been em- ployed upon, and there would be no use in multiplying details. The fever had again returned, with neuralgia and other trying accompaniments, and I felt that some- thing must soon be done. I could not hold on much longer. It was no use attempting anything more in Eaichore, because it now transpired that the province was to be restored to the Nizam, and Nuldroog also ; 352 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvn. and that, as tlie revenues had largely increased, and were more than sufficient for the purpose for which the original cession had been made, the assignment would now be restricted to Berar, the whole of which, without any reservation, was to be retained, along with some portions to the south and east, which had not been in- cluded in the previous agreement. Evidently the time had come when the Commission would be remodelled, but how it might affect me, it was impossible to tell. Had my health continued good, I should never have dreamed of leaving India, for I loved the country, and I loved the people ; but I felt I could no longer stay now. I had no wish to retire from ac- tive work, and hoped to return to live and die, if Grod willed it, among the people. And I thought in any case I could take leave and go as far as Malta, where my father would meet me, and I could bring back my chil- dren with me, and by that time the new arrangements would be completed, and I should know what position I would occupy when the new treaty with H.H. the Nizam was concluded. I was obliged to admit now, that work was growing very difiicult to me. Medicine seemed powerless to check the perpetual ague and fever, and a debility and want of energy came over me which I could not strug- gle against. The doctor at Linsoogoor told me very plainly that I had no chance of recovery in India, and that if I stayed, my illness must go on from bad to worse. I sent up his report upon my case to the Kesi- dent, at the earnest entreaty of my friends, who thought me very ill, and made an application for two years' leave of absence, which was all I could hope to get under the rules. I860.] FAREWELL TO SHOEAPOOE. 353 I gave over charge of the Raichore Doab to Mr Ricketts, my only Assistant, and, taking a sad fare- well of my friends, whom I never then thought I should see again, I went to Shorapoor to try and close my work there. The Treasury was in a prosperous condition, and I was allowed to take from it the price of my house, for which I fortunately held the late Rajah's note of hand. I was very thankful for this piece of good fortune, al- though I had of course to put up with the loss of interest on my money. At Shorapoor the utmost anxiety prevailed as to the ultimate destiny of the State, but I could give no opin- ion whatever ; and its fate remained yet uncertain. There was much dread that it would be made over to the Mussulmans, their old hereditary enemies ; and I found this fear was disturbing the people very muck " We shall no longer be true Hindoos," was the gen- eral cry. " Cows will be killed in our precincts, and the flesh will be sold in our streets. Hundreds of years have passed since this indignity has been offered us, and now we dare not resist it." What could I say ? or what assurance could I give them that such would not be the case ? I grew better at Shorapoor. I went out to Bohnal, and had a last sail on the beautiful lake. I left in- structions for the completion of Kuchaknoor, in case it should ever be found practicable to go on with it. I looked round all the roads and plantations, and saw them in a satisfactory condition. I settled all estates belonging to individuals on a more permanent basis, and recommended that the Ranees should have theirs restored to them. Z 354 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xyu. My last farewells to all the people were very trying. They saw I could not stay, and had little hope they should ever see me again. On the 25th February they asked me to preside at a last durbar, and presented me with an address in Mahratti, reciting at great length the services which, they acknowledged, I had rendered them during my residence in the State. I cannot describe the scene ; but its passionate char- acter can be imagined from the previous acts and words of the people. None of them had been strangers to me ; many had grown up from children under my sight, and had now children of their own about their knees ; others were old and grey - headed ; and many whom I had known had gone to their rest. It was not an easy task to leave them all ; but I had to go, and I do not think I am forgotten there even now. I intended to depart quietly in the night; but I found the chiefs of the Beydur clans assembled in the streets, and it was as difficult now to reach the north gate of the city as it had been to enter it two years before — only, instead of a clamour of joyous welcome, there was now sad wail- ing of women, while the men walked by me in utter silence. Now and then some one would exclaim, " We have no one now to care for us ; but our women will sing of you as they grind corn in the morning, and will light their lamps in your name at night. Come back to us ; oh, come back ! " It was very sad and very solemn, and can never be forgotten. At every village the people came about me, the mothers holding up their children for me to put my hands upon their heads and bless them ; and it was all so simple, so earnest, and so heartfelt, one could not but feel it-s sincerity. People asked me what I found in I860.] LAST FAREWELLS. 355 tlie natives to like so much. Could I help loving them when they loved me so? Why should I not love them? I had never courted popularity. I had but tried to be just to all, and to secure to the meanest applicant con- sideration of his complaint, by allowing -unrestricted communication with myself. Thousands wished to have signed the address had time permitted it ; but there are quite enough signa- tures to show the attachment of the people to the only Englishman whom most of them had ever seen, and certainly the first who had exercised any authority over them. At Nuldroog the sincere love of the people was shown in the address given there ; in Berar I accepted the loyal and peaceful demeanour of the population as a marked proof of their attachment to me in the most try- ing crisis of the great rebellion. In all I had ruled over 36,000 square miles of area, and a population of upwards of five millions of a most industrious and intelligent people, not only without a single complaint against my rule, but, as I think and hope, with a place in their affections and respect, gained by no other means than by exercising simple courtesy and justice to aE I was often told by various friends, " You do too much for people who will never thank you." I do not think so : I did not do half enough, and I could have done more had I had more help. God is my wit- ness, I tried to do as much as I could, and heartily regretted being obliged, through physical inability, to leave undone many a measure of progress and ad- vancement which I hoped to accomplish. I travelled slowly to Hyderabad, for I could not bear long marches now, and stayed at the Eesidency, where there was still much to do before I could leave. Even 356 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvil now furlougli to England was very difficult to obtain, and, but for the Kesident's private intercession with, the Governor-General, I should not have got it at all. . I left Hyderabad at length, and as the road via Hominabad and Nuldroog was now finished, I went by it as far as Sholapoor ; then there was the railway. At Nuldroog I had left my plate and various articles in the treasury ; but, alas ! some one had, during those troublous times, broken open the plate-chest, and several articles had been abstracted, most of which, however, I afterwards recovered ; but I was much grieved at the loss of a small bag containing all the autograph letters I valued most, and a few little ornaments which my wife had always worn. They were of no value to any one intrinsically, and must have been taken for the sake of the bag, which was prettily embroidered in gold thread. On the road I reached one of the stage bungalows for travellers, and, being very weak, was being lifted from my palankeen by one of my servants, when ' two gentlemen came forward to help me. " Was I Captain Meadows Taylor," they asked, " who was anxiously expQ,cted at Malta?" "Yes, I was;" and they told me they had been fellow-passengers with my dear ones, who wore awaiting me there, and gave me many par- ticulars of them. Going home seemed at last to be growing a reality ! I passed a day and a night at Sholapoor with my dear friend Abingdon Compton, and he urged me, if I missed the steamer, which seemed very probable, as I was too weak to travel very quickly, to go up to stay with his wife at the Mahabuleshwar ; and indeed, he said, I had better not go to England till the next steamer, I860.] JOUKNEY TO BOMBAY. 357" as he knew Lord Elphinstone was at the Hills, and wanted to see me, and, in any case, it was no use my waiting a fortnight in the heat at Bombay. I promised to go if I missed the steamer; but I was in time, having just two days to spare before it sailed. How strangely events happen ! Had I missed that mail, I should have gone to Mahabuleshwar, and should, as I afterwards found, have been offered by Lord Elphin- stone the " Directorship of Jails,'' an appointment which I could have held, worth £2500 a-year ! He had kept it for me ; but finding I had gone home on sick leave, was obliged to bestow it elsewhere. I should have stayed in India, and have taken up my appointment, telling my father to come on at once. I could have remained at the Hills, would have entered a new de- partment of the service where there was no press of work, and where I could travel as I pleased. But luck was against me ! Yet, why should I say this ? I might not have been able to stand the Indian climate longer, even at the Hills, and with lighter work. At all events, God willed it otherwise. I heard before I left, that Nuldroog and Eaichore were to be restored to the Nizam, and that Shorapoor was to be given to him as a token of the appreciation of the British Government of his faithfulness and loyalty in the Mutiny. So, what would have become of me without Lord Elphin- stone's kind offer was not apparent, and I should have at once accepted it had I remained in India. I had a pleasant party of fellow-passengers ; one poor fellow, who had been badly wounded by a bullet in the lungs, was specially consigned to my care, although, as his father said at parting, " You do indeed look fear- fully iU yourself." And so I was ; the relaxing heat 358 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvil of Bombay, and all my final journey and preparations, had exhausted me terribly, and I had grown so fat and unwieldy that to move about was a trouble to me. I asked one lady on board, whose husband had been Political Agent in Miniawar, why they had not come to me when obliged to fly? "We dared not," she said, " go to Berar. We were told you were a marked man, and dangerously popular. There would be no hope for us — nay, we heard you were already mur- dered ! " Yes, we had almost all in that ship been through trying scenes and many dangers, and a merciful God had brought us out safely from the land. We arrived at Malta in due course, very late, after midnight, and no passengers could land till morning. I was sitting with the poor fellow who had been my constant care, and who was so ill that night we thought him dying, when a gentleman came up to me. " The P. and 0. agent has come on board," he said, " and tells me he will take you and me ashore if we like, to-night. I know how anxious you are to go." I put my night things in a small bag, and went. I could not stay behind. It was as much as I could do to get up the long flight of steps into Valetta, and 1 had to sit down often ; but at length the hotel was reached. All was quiet, every one in bed ; but this was no time for ceremony, and in a few minutes I held my darlings to my heart. 359 CHAPTER XVIII. 1860-74. I NEED not dwell upon that time. Any one who has followed me through the latter years of my life in India, so lonely and so utterly cut off from all society of any kind, will appreciate what it was to me to find myself again with those dearest to me on earth, to learn to know them and be known by them. And the days flew by, I feeling stronger, and my face losing the deep-drawn lines of pain about my forehead and mouth, which my children said they " ironed " out ; and so they did, no doubt. I was, however, very far from well, although the excitement and delight of my first arrival had kept me up wonderfully. But Malta was growing hot, and we started for Naples, where we spent some delightful days, taking a fresh excursion every day — one to Pompeii and Herculaneum, the former present- ing exactly the appearance of a Deccan town unroofed ; one to Baia, and another to Vesuvius, which we partly ascended, but my strength was not equal to much yet. My old Indian helmet, with a scarlet pugeree tied round it, with gold ends, attracted much attention, and hats were raised as we drove along ; and on passing the main guard, there rose a cry, " II Generale !" and the 350 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xvul guard fell in and saluted, to our very great amuse- ment. There was a sudden exodus from Naples, owing to a rumour of cholera, and an apprehended attack by Garibaldi, and we decamped with the rest. We landed at Civita Vecchia, a very motley crowd, and a general scramble began for luggage and places in the train. My red pugeree stood me in good stead, however, and the ofScials came forward at once. Everything was at the service of " II Generale " or " Eccellenza." " Air you a Ingine general, sir ? " asked an Ameri- can, as I was entering the carriage. " No, sir ; an Indian officer, but not a general," I replied. "Wal, sir, you air very fair for Ingy, you air. If you was to come to our country, they wouldn't know you for an Ingine ; no, sir, they would not, I tell you, sir." We stayed a fortnight in Eome. We saw all the pictures and the statues and the palaces. We made excursions to Tivoli and to Hadrian's viUa. We saw St Peter's, too, under decoration for a great ceremony ; and above all, I was introduced in the strangest manner to his Holiness the Pope. We had no tickets for the reserved seats for the occasion, not having secured them in time, and our old guide Stefano was sorely distressed at this. He, however, told us not to despair, " he had a great friend, a priest, who was to take part in the ceremony ;" and motioning me to -follow, he marched straight to the door of the sacristy, and beckoned to his friend, explaining to him who I was, and how I had arrived too late to get tickets. I was bidden to enter, and was presented to a very benevolent-looking old gentleman as " II Generale Inglese." I had hardly time I860.] IN EOME. 361 to realise that it was the Pope himself, when he put out his hand to me, while I bent low and kissed it. He told me I was welcome, and desired the priest to see that we had good seats. We were conducted to a little door in one of the great pillars, where, ascending a spiral staircase, we found ourselves in a cosy little box, just large enough for four people, from which we saw and heard everything most perfectly. "Did I not manage that well?" cried old Stefano, rubbing his hands. What a world of new thought and beauty was opened to me ! I revelled in the pictures and in the galleries at Eome ; but even more, I believe, in those of Florence, where we literally lived in the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi. I think, however, I was most interested in the ancient remains — the statues and the busts — not only those of emperors, kings, and statesmen, but of the citizens and their wives, recalling the features of the age to which they belonged, the head-dresses and grace- ful draperies as worn at the period. Many of the women's faces struck me as being truly noble, and their figures too, and as more intellectual and handsomer in type than those of the men. We could have lingered in Florence, in Bologna, in Milan, in Venice so dreamy and so exquisite, for weeks, nay, months ; but time was passing, and we left beautiful Italy — its pictures, statues, noble ancient remains, its churches, and its lakes behind us — and crossed over the Spliigen Pass into Bavaria. Surely the world can contain no fairer spot than those lakes of Italy, and it is quite impossible to decide whether Maggiore, or Lugano, with its wild grand beauty, or fair Come, lying sparkling in the sun, carries off the palm, all are so lovely and all so differ- 362 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. ivm. ent. I do not know, and have not seen, the other Passes over the Alps, but I should think none can exceed the Spliigen and the Vis, Mala in grandeur and in beauty ; nor could I, an old road-maker, cease to marvel at the great science and daring displayed in the engineering work. From Chur — after a detour made to visit dear relations in Bavaria, and stay some days with them in their beautiful old schloss — to Paris, by way of Basle and Strasbourg, a weary railway journey in very hot weather. Paris was almost unbearable from the heat, and we only waited long enough to get a few clothes, and then on to London, and back to home-life once more. My health, which at &st had seemed almost re- established, now again broke down, showing that the evil still existed ; the fever returned perpetually ; and the best physicians, both in London and Dublin, shook their heads. The news from India was not reassuring. The treaty of 1860 was now accomplished ; the Eaichore Doab and Nuldroog were transferred to the Nizam, and the principality of Shorapoor conferred upon him as a free gift in return for his loyal conduct . during the Mutiny. It was clear to me that except my Deputy- Commissionership, I had no hope of promotion, unless I should be made Settlement OfiSoer. My eighteen months' leave expired in November 1861, and I obtained an extension for six months more ; and as I was in London on this business, I had the honour of being summoned by the then Secretary of State for India, who was anxious for information in regard to Berar and its revenue settlement. He seemed to approve of the system I had introduced in Nuldroog during 1856-57, and listened earnestly while I described its details ; he requested me to write him an ofiScial 1861.] A STRUGGLE. 363 letter on the subject, and hinted that, although the Head-Commissionership might not be given to an " un- covenanted servant," the appointment of Settlement OfiScer was one which I could hold. Time passed. I confess I have no distinct memory of events. Constant illness, and, worse than all, a sort of debility of the brain, seemed to possess me, and were most distressing. I had not only lost my energy, but my memory also in great measure, and I was obliged to have every note looked over before it was posted, lest the sense should not bo clear, or a strange jumble and repetition of words should be found. Indeed I grew worse and worse, and the thought that I should, if this continued, be obliged to give up India altogether, made me miserable. My doctors apprehended, I have since heard, paralysis of the brain, and entreated my family to oppose my return to active work. As the expiration of my leave drew near, I made desperate efforts to have it renewed still further, offering to do without pay alto- gether if my place might be kept open for me. Sir Eanald Martin told me six months more would per- haps recruit my health, and promised to back my peti- tion : I had friends too at the India House to help me. But it was of no avail ; the rules of the " uncovenanted service " could not be broken, and my request was re- fused ; so no alternative remained for me except to go out as I was, ill and weak, or to resign the service altogether. It was a hard battle. My heart was in my work, and I ardently longed to go back and try to carry on what I had been planning for the benefit of the people among whom I had lived my life, and whom I loved ; but it seemed as if God, in His wisdom, had taken from me the power and strength I needed. "If you go 364 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvin. back," said Sir Ranald Martin, " to the climate of Berar, you must die : you are totally unfit for duty, and the fever and ague are as bad as ever. Think of your life, and think of your children, and may God help you to a right decision. I never had a more painful case to deal with." I thought over all this earnestly, and asked for help and guidance, and I saw clearly that it would not be right to run into the jaws of death as it were ; so I gave up the struggle, and sent in my resignation with a very heavy heart. No one knows, even now, what a bitter grief it was to me to do this ; but I trust I did what was right. I returned to Dublin very much oast down. I was not able to do anything except paint, and I took refuge in this, and in music ; any attempt at writing set my head throbbing ; and neither words nor thoughts would come. I looked sadly at the commencement of a story I had begun years before in India, and won- dered whether I should ever be able to complete it. A friend, finding me one day sitting on a door-step in Dublin, faint and sick, and shivering with ague, took me home and told me how his brother, who had suffered terribly from Australian bush-fever, had derived much benefit from homoeopathy. I had tried everything else, and every physician of note without avail, and I pro- mised my friend to consult the doctor he told me of, and to give the system a fair trial. I told my story to the kind physician he recom- mended, and also honestly confessed my want of faith in the system. " I don't mind that," said the good man ; " but it is rather hard to ask me to cure a malady of thirty years' standing, when so many great men have failed. How- 1863.] ' IAEA.' 365 ever, I will try to alleviate — I cannot cure it ; and I trust, under God's blessing, to give you some help. But you were right not to return to India." I followed the prescriptions he gave me faithfully, and I amused myself by fishing, painting, and reading very light literature, and tried not to think about anything. The effect was really marvellous. I grew stronger and more energetic, and I felt some of my old power returning to me ; and after a few months I went to my friend and asked his leave to begin to write. " Do you feel able now ? " he asked. " If you do, be- gin ; but you must be very cautious, and do not fatigue your brain. If you feel the least tired or confused, stop." I took his advice, and I began my novel of ' Tara.' The incidents and actions of the story had been planned for nearly twenty years ; and I knew all the scenes and localities described, as I had the story in my mind dur- ing my visit to Beejapoor, and had noted the details accurately ; while my long residence in an entirely native State, and my intimate acquaintance with the people, their manners, habits, and social organisation, gave me opportunities, which I think few Englishmen have ever enjoyed, of thoroughly understanding native life. One day, when talking of my projected book with my dear friend Mrs Cashel Hoey, whom I have known since she was a child, and whose career I have always watched with ever-increasing interest and affection, she said suddenly, " Now you have the plot so clearly de- fined in your brain, come and write it out chapter by chapter ; I will set it down exactly as you dictate to me." We went together to my study, and locked the door, and there for six hours we worked at it, she writ- ing in total silence, and a perfect sketch of the whole 366 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvin. tale was made, the details of whicli were filled up after- wards. I never remember feeling so utterly exhausted in my life ; but the relief when it was finished was intense, and we both were glad that we had resisted the entreaties to us to stop our work, and rest, which my children, fearing for me in my state of health, made more than once in vain. After this, I felt sure of my subject, and wrote confidently, but very slowly, for my brain had not regained its full strength yet ; but the occupation interested me, and was a source of infinite delight. When my book was partly finished, I wrote to Messrs Blackwood, offering it to them, and telling them how it had been promised twenty years before, for ' Blackwood's Magazine,' when I had written the 'Confessions of a Thug.' My book was accepted, and, still writing very slow- ly, I finished and published it in 1863. It was most favourably received. All the leading papers — the ' Times,' ' Morning Post,' ' Athenaeum,' ' Saturday Ee- view,' and the Quarterlies — were loud in its praise ; and I only mention this at length, because I had been very anxious as to my reception in the literary world, after a silence of so many years ; and I was not a little gratified to find myself welcomed once more so warmly. ' Tara ' was the first of the series of three historical romances which I had proposed to write on the three great modern periods of Indian history, which occurred at an interval of exactly a hundred years. ' Tara ' illus- trated the rise of the Mahrattas, and their first blow against the Mussulman power in 1657. 'Ealph Darnell,' my second work, was to illustrate the rise of the English political power in the victory of Plassey in June 1757. 1865.] LITERARY WOEK. 367 ' Seeta,' wticli was to be the third, was to illustrate the attempts of all classes alike to rid themselves of the English by the Mutiny of 1857. 'Ealph Darnell,' which appeared in 1865, was also well received, and I had every encouragement to per- severe. I read a paper upon my discoveries of cairns, crom- lechs, &c., in Shorapoor, before the Koyal Irish Academy, with illustrations and sketches of what I found, which, I believe, completely established the identity of those re- mains in India and in Europe, and, I have reason to think,- was valuable archseologicaUy. It was published in vol. xxiv. of the Society's ' Transactions,' and illus- trated with sixty-eight engravings. This had been a subject which, since I had made the first identification in relation to the cromlechs and cairns of Eajan Koloor, I had followed up with the greatest interest, until I obtained ample confirmation of my views in the cairns on Twizell Moor, Northumberland, in the autumn of 1864. I was placed in charge of the Indian Department of the Dublin Exhibition of 1865 by my friend Dr Forbes Watson ; and on the occasion of the visit of H.E.H. the Prince of Wales to the Exhibition, was called on to attend and explain various matters to him. He was especially struck by the large raised map of the eastern coast of India, constructed to scale by the late Mr Montgomery Martin, which I had painted afresh, and of which the Prince showed a very intimate knowledge. He had evidently studied Indian subjects deeply, and appeared gratified by the information I was able to give in regard both to the natural productions and the articles of manufacture displayed. 368 STORY OF MY LIFE. [oHAP. xviu. My next task was to write the historical and descrip- tive portions of two superb volumes of Photographs of the City of Beejapoor and the Hindoo Temples of the Southern Mahratta country. These volumes were pub- lished by Mr John Murray, the architectural portions being contributed by my friend Mr James Fergusson. This led to my undertaking the descriptive letter- press of a work entitled ' The People of India,' which consisted of a series of photographs of the different races, tribes, and orders of the people all over India, and involved much labour and research. The descrip- tions were necessarily very short, and as much informa- tion as possible had to be compressed into a few meagre lines. The work was brought out by the India Office, and no limit was affixed to it. Up to the present year (1874) six volumes have been completed. I also began a series of Indian articles for Messrs Cassell, Petter, and Galpin's Biographical Dictionary, which, as far as I know, are the only contributions to Indian biography which exist. Of course the space here was also very circumscribed, and aU I could do was to make the notices intelligible and" useful for reference. Thus I worked on, and employed myself as busily as I could, painting during my leisure hours. In 1868 we went abroad and remained away for a year, wintering at that loveliest of places, Mentone — one of the sweetest spots, I think, the world contains. How we all enjoyed it, and what glorious walks, donkey - rides, and excur- sions we made ! and the flowers — but they are too beautiful for description. We used to bring home basket-loads of crimson and scarlet anemones, violets, tulips, and a thousand more, less gay, perhaps, but 1868-69.] LECTDKE ON TANK-CONSTKUCTION. 369 none the less beautiful. I worked on at the biographies and descriptions all the winter, steadily refusing to be tempted out until the afternoon. A project for a ' Child's History of India ' was also growing in my brain, originated by a dear friend, a lady, coming to me one day with an armfal of most stupendous-looking volumes, and saying, as she threw them down wearily, " Oh, Colonel Taylor, do tell me what I am to do. How can I teach the children the history of India out of those ? " And indeed it seemed a truly formidable task. I was not able to set about a history of India just then, but later I confided the scheme to Messrs Longman, who begged I would make mine a ' Student's Manual of the History of India ; ' and this I eventually wrote some time later. The work was very laborious, and involved much minute study, occupying me in all about two years. I had not long returned from Mentone when I was solicited by the Institute of Civil Engineers of Ireland to deliver a lecture upon the method of constructing large earthen embankments and sluices for irrigation tanks in India ; and, as I was much interested in the subject, I made the lecture as comprehensive as I could, and described the system adopted so as to retain the rainfall as much as possible. I had all my own plans, elevations, surveys, and sections, and some details of ancient native work. My lecture was printed in the ' Transactions ' of the Society ; and to my gratification I was not only elected a member, but received a diploma as civil engineer, with liberty to practise as such within the United Kingdom. My hard work over, my History was delightfully in- terrupted during 1869 by an announcement from the Secretary of State for India that Her Most Gracious 2 A 370 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvni. Majesty the Queen had been pleased, on the 2d of June, to appoint me a " Companion of the Most Exalted Order of the Star of India." The honour and gratifica- tion of the gift were enhanced by a communication from his Grace the Duke of Argyll, as he presented me with the Order, that the selection of my name had been made by her Majesty herself. I felt very grateful for this honour — which had been entirely unsolicited by me — not only as a recognition of any public service I had been able to perform during my Indian life, but as an assurance that I had not been forgotten though so long absent. Her Majesty had indeed recognised me at the first levee I attended after my return ; and her words, " I am glad to see you back again," will always be treasured by me, as a very grati- fying proof of her kind interest in so humble a servant as myself. In 1871 my History appeared, as complete as I could make it in the limited space necessarily at my disposal, and I trusted that, having now a compendium, as it were, at their command. Principals of colleges and schools would bring the History of India more into their educational course. I inquired in many direc- tions, but I could not discover that Indian history was taught anywhere. Why, I know not ; for surely there can scarcely be any subject of greater importance to Englishmen than the history of the noble dependencies won by their ancestors, which, one would think, would be both more useful, and perhaps more interesting, than many subjects which seem to form part of the essential education of our boys. I had to take a long rest now. The labour of the History had very much exhausted me, and I spent 1871-72.] PUBLIC LECTURES. 371 the interval in travelling and painting, and was elected honorary member of the Eoyal Hibernian Academy. In 1872 I began ' Seeta,' finishing it in June the same year ; and up to the time I write, I have not begun any more works of fiction. After this ' Story of my Life ' is finished, I hope, if I am spared, to revert to the ro- mantic and medieval period of Deccan history, and write an illustration of it, the plot of which^is growing in my brain. Prom time to time I contributed articles to the 'Edinburgh Eeview,' on various subjects connected with India : every year one or more of these appeared. And I enjoyed this kind of literary labour very much, and am grateful it was given to me to do. Also, from time to time, I gave public lectures on subjects connected with India, both in Dublin, Birming- ham, Whitehaven, and other places. I wanted to bring India nearer to England — to bring its people nearer our people ; and if, by my simple descriptions of life among the natives, any have felt more interest in their Indian brothers and sisters, or have been led to read and study more, my object has been attained. The following were the subjects of some of my lectures : — "Ancient Literature of India." " Village Communities." "India Past and Present." " Some Great Men of India." " Some Great Women of India." And others, of which I have only notes. I always found my audiences interested and amused ; and I believe it only needs such illustrations to arouse an interest in, and bring India home to, the minds of English people. 372 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvin. I lieard frequently from friends in India, who did not forget to tell me about my old people and districts whenever they could hear of them. How Nuldroog and the Raichore Doab are now administered I know not, or whether the revenue remains as it was under English management. Of Berar there is at least no question. I have already stated that a portion of the Bombay survey was introduced in 1860, and its benefit and progress have been wonderful. Not only do the people possess their holdings, instead of being merely " tenants at wiU," liable to be dispossessed by any out- bidder ; but the cultivation has extended, as it was plain to see would be the case, with insured possession. All that is now wanting, to my perception, to complete the land settlement — which is exactly in principle what I proposed for Nuldroog in 1855 — is the grant of title- deeds for estates and area of house occupation ; and I hope these may be eventually issued. The increase of revenue has been enormous, and has accompanied the increase of cultivation. According to the Administra- tive Report of 1870-71, a final total of £905,467 was reached, which showed an increase of £504,985 in ten years ; and as a large portion of the district is stiU. un- surveyed, the revenue will, in the end, there is little doubt, exceed a million sterling. I trust this magni- ficent practical result may induce Government to under- take a perpetual settlement on the sound basis of pro- prietary right, instead of the many shifty measures which have hitherto been in operation. I have little more to add. I went to India with only one friend there on whom I could rely, and upon him I had no claim except a slight relationship. I have had no education so to speak. What I know I have taugth 1873-74.] LAST WORDS. 373 myself. I have gained my position, such as it is now, by steady hard work and perseverance ; and that my humble services have been acknowledged by my Queen and my country in giving me the Star of India, is a recompense for which I am very grateful. My literary work has been a great pleasure to me ; but I can only write about the people among whom I lived, and whom I love and shall always love to the last. Had I known how to write about modern society, fast young ladies, roue young gentlemen, fair mur- deresses with golden hair, and all the "sensation" tribe, I doubt not I should have filled my pockets better ; but it was no use, — I was too old and stiff to chango my ways. The old Tooljapoor Brahmin spoke truly, " Much, very much money, passed through my hands,'' and yet I continue poor. But I am thankful, — thankful for having sufiScient to live on, though not riches ; for loving and beloved children ; for many, many dear friends, who make me welcome always in the North, and in Yorkshire, and in Norfolk (is not the hot corner kept for me at Didlington when I am able to shoot ?) — in London, where I sometimes go for a few weeks to have a glimpse of the great world and its doings — in Dublin, where, in my dear old home, I have a large circle of kind and loving friends. And is not this enough to make me happy and contented with my lot ? One word, one last reflection in regard to India, may not be out of place. It is to advise all who go there in whatever capacity, or whatever position they may hold, — use true courtesy to natives of all degrees. My ex- perience has taught me that large masses of men are more easily led than driven, and that courtesy and kind- ness and firmness will gain many a point which, under a 374 STOKY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xvin. hard and haughty bearing, would prove unattainable. By courtesy I do not mean undue familiarity — far from it ; self-respect must always be preserved. But there is a middle course which, if rightly pursued in a gentle- manly fashion, not only exacts respect from natives of all classes, but gratitude and affection likewise. Grateful to God for all the mercies of my life, for His sustaining power, and the ability to do what I have been able to accomplish through all my life, all that I hope for, in my humble sphere, is that my efforts may be accepted by Him ; and that, in Sir Henry Lawrence's words, " I may be thought of as one who strove to do his duty." MEADOWS TAYLOR. Old Coukt, Harold's Cross, Dubldt, June 187i. 375 CHAPTEE XIX. CONCLUSION. 1874-76. During the autumn and winter of 1874-75, my dear father suffered much from bronchitis and general de- bility ; but in the quiet of his own study, to which his health almost entirely confined him, he wrote his last novel, ' A Noble Queen,' which appeared in chapters in ' The Overland Mail,' and also in ' The Week's News,' and was published by Messrs H. King & Co. His friends earnestly hope that the story may be published shortly in volume form, and thus become known more widely than at present in England.* In India it has been much appreciated, and eagerly looked for on the arrival of each mail ; and, to quote the ' Times of India,' " apart from its historic and literary interest, it abounds with attractive and excellent descriptions of Indian scenery." The story relates to the Mussulman king- . doms of Beejapoor and Ahmednugger ; and its historic heroine is Chand Beebee, the dowager queen of Ali Adil Shah — its ideal heroine being Zora, the young * Since writing the above this has been done. Publishers : Messrs Kegan Paul & Co. — Ed, 376 STORY OF MY LIFE. [chap. six. granddaughter of an exiled dervish. /My father also completed during these winter months the seventh and eighth volumes of the 'People of India.' 1>In May 1875 his eyesight suddenly failed him, and he wrote the con- cluding pages of 'A Noble Queen' with considerable difiSoulty. It was hoped earnestly that this dimness of vision was only temporary, and that, with renewed health, the precious sight might be regained. He visited London in order to obtain the best medical advice, and was told by the physicians that his best and only hope of recovery lay in passing the following winter in some warm, dry climate. " I should like to go to India again, if you think the climate would suit me," he said. And after a long and deliberate consultation, leave was given ; and he was told he might revisit the old scenes, now made yet more attractive by the residence at Hyderabad of his married daughter. When the news of his determination to spend the winter in India reached Hyderabad, His Excellency Sir Salar Jung wrote in the kindest possible terms, express- ing a hope that, if my father fulfilled his present inten- tion, he would consider himself as his guest during his stay, and allow him to make all the arrangements he could for his comfort. This invitation was gratefully accepted, and on the 12tli of September 1875, he and I, with our faithful ser- vant John, sailed from Liverpool in the s.s. Guy Manner- ing for Bombay. The change of air and the sea voyage seemed to benefit my father's general health, though there was scarcely any improvement in his sight. His memory was so wonderfully clear, and his recollection of places and scenes so accurate, that our captain was 1875.] CONCLUSION. 377 astonished, and declared he was led to look for and find out many points of interest that he had, in previous voyages, overlooked. We arrived at Bombay on the 15th of October, and, after a rest of two days, started for Hyderabad. The long railway journey of twenty- seven hours was borne without much fatigue, and my father seemed to rally wonderfully under the delight and excitement of meeting those so dear to him once more. His loss of sight was a sad drawback, but his patience under this terrible affliction was very touching. He could see a little, but not enough to read or write himself, or employ himself in any way ; and this to one of his indefatigably industrious habits was a trial which only those who knew him could appreciate. When not writing or reading he used to draw, or knit, or crochet, and his delight was to surprise his friends with some specimen of his work. His interest in all that went on around him was as keen as ever ; and the numerous visits he received from his native friends afforded him great pleasure. Some came from long distances, only to see him, to touch his feet, or bring their simple offerings of fruit, sugar-candy, and ga;rlands of sweet jessamine ; and it was very touching to see the love and reverence the people bore for him. One, a native of Shorapoor, told him how the people yet bewailed his loss, and how the women sang ballads to his honour as they ground their corn, and related stories of him to their children. He seemed to be so essentially the peoples friend ; and that his memory and his deeds lived still in their hearts, was evident to all who saw the manner of their coming. Owing to the prolonged absence of H.E. Sir Salar Jung, both at Bombay and Calcutta, on the occasions 378 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap, xix ■of the visit of H.E.H. the Prince of Wales, my father did not see so much of the Minister as he otherwise would have done ; and this was a source of much mutual regret. But everything that princely hospitality could suggest, in the providing of house, servants, horses and carriages, and every comfort, was done by Sir Salar Jung to render my father's stay as pleasant and as comfortable as possible. He was able to partake of the hospitalities of the palace, too, on several occasions, especially that of the grand fete given on the arrival of Sir Richard Meade as Resident at Hyderabad ; and he was able also to accept and enjoy invitations to the Residency, and among other friends. One great regret to him was that his health did not admit of his taking the long journey to Calcutta, in order to be present at the great gathering of the members of the " Order of the Star of India." He wrote his apologies to Sir Bartle Frere, begging him, if he would, to make known to H.E.H. the reason of his non-attendance, and received in reply a note which gratified him exceedingly. Not only was Sir Bartle Frere desired by the Prince of Wales to assure Colonel Taylor how much he regretted being deprived of the opportunity of making his personal acquaintance, but he added that he wished Colonel Taylor especially to know what pleasure he had derived from the perusal of his works on the voyage out to India. This gracious message and recognition of his literary labours were very pleasant to him, and afforded another instance, among so many at that time, of the graceful thoughtfulness and kindly feeling of his Royal Highness. In January 1876 my father was once more attacked by his old enemy, the jungle fever, and for many days and nights it seemed doubtful whether he 1876.] CONCLUSION. 379 would be spared to us yet a while. On the advice of his medical attendants, we took him back to Bombay, the climate there being considered better for his com- plaint, as it was more relaxing, and had not the exces- sive irritating dryness of Hyderabad. He remained at Bombay for a month. During this time he received many visits from persons acquainted with his Indian career and literary works, and enjoyed, on several occasions, long and earnest conversations with them, especially on subjects connected with native education and literature. On this latter point he was exceedingly anxious, and it was his purpose, had his life been spared, to have contributed a series of letters to the ' Times of India ' on the subject. In one letter, to a native gentleman friend, which has been largely quoted, after thanking him for his criticisms on ' Seeta,' and admitting that it is im- possible for a writer, not a Hindoo, to describe Brah- minical observances and caste customs with absolute correctness, he thus proceeds : — " Now, why do not you, or some one of your friends, take up the subject of novels or tales, and instruct us on the subject of your people ? If you wrote in Marathi, or Gujerati, you would have a vast audience. If in English, we — if the work were simply and truthfully writ- ten — would welcome the author warmly. Think of the still existing popularity of Goldsmith's ' Vicar of Wake- field,' which is undying ; and how simple and pathetic the tale is. You have matter, too, for a hundred romances in Grant Duff's History, if you follow history ; but that is not needed for general interest so much as writing that will move the hearts of the people, and become the foundation of a national literature of fiction, 380 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xix. healthy, pure, and instructive to future generations. Why should we know only the dark side of Hindooism, and see none of the bright and light side, from the pens of its sons, now so rapidly advancing and advanced in modern science and thought ? Any one of your people who might attempt this department of literature would, if he wrote simply, naturally, and without pedantry, secure for himself not only present reputation, but un- dying fame. I cannot believe the ability is wanting ; all that is required is to be stimulated to healthy exer- tion on a pure model to achieve a decided success." And on another occasion he writes : — " I am glad to hear that my works have been read, if it be only to prove to those who read them that my interest in the people of India, of all classes, is as strong as ever, and increases with time. I would fain see the educated portion striving to strike out new lines of occupation for themselves ; and I do not despair of yet seeing illustrations of native life, native legends, and native history written by yourselves. Such as I am, though we strive never so much, cannot penetrate be- yond the surface of that we see ; and as for myself, in regard to ' Tara,' ' Seeta,' and my other books, where I have tried to work out phases of native character, male and female, I only hope I have produced pictures some- thing like reality, and not caricatures. I think portions of ' Tara ' and ' Seeta ' would translate easily into Mar- athi ; and I should like to hear that extracts of these books were done into Marathi to serve as reading-books for the new generation. Until Marathi and- other native languages have a homely literature of their own, I confess there is the want of a principle which would encourage many to better things." 1876.] CONCLUSION. 381 On the 15tli March we embarked on board the s.s, Australia, belonging to the Eubattino Company, who had with great kindness reserved two cabins for my father's and my own use, without extra charge, in spite of an over-full complement of passengers. We were bound for Genoa, as we intended passing a little time in the south of France until the spring should be far enough advanced to permit of our return home. On the voyage my father became far more ill, and the loss of all power in his lower limbs was a great additional trial. He could no longer walk at all, and was carried up and down from his berth to his chair on deck. We reached Genoa, however, in safety on the 6th April, after a very calm voyage of twenty-one days, and travelled on next day to Mentone, where, becoming gradually worse, and more and more helpless, he sank to rest peacefully and painlessly on the 13th of May 1876. To the last my dear father retained all the brightness of his intellect, and his interest in all that passed. ■ The night before his death he heard read with great plea- sure the account of the arrival of H.E.H. the Prince of Wales in England, and spoke long and earnestly of the royal visit to India ; of the good it was likely to pro- duce there ; of the courtesy which distinguished the Prince's behaviour to all natives of whatever degree, and his wish that such an example might be largely followed. The papers both of England and India were filled with notices, all speaking of the varied and great talents my dear father possessed as soldier, administrator, man of science and of letters ; but we, whose privilege it was to be with him in his home, knew him best as the tenderest and most loving of parents, the wise friend. 382 STOEY OF MY LIFE. [chap. xix. the true-hearted, humble Christian gentleman, ever casting his cares upon Him who cared for him in his strange neglected boyhood and early manhood, and who helped him to become what he was in private life, and to attain the public distinctions which were awarded to him. He rests at Mentone, in that spot so sacred to many English families and homes, amid the lovely scenes he delighted in, and among the sweet flowers he loved so well. A simple cross of white marble marks his grave, on which are inscribed the last words he uttered on earth : — " The Eternal God is thy Kefuge, and underneath are the everlasting arms." ALICE M. TAYLOE. 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