ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924052813676 Bake. Shop Library Cakes for Bakers BY PAUL RICHARDS AUTHOR OP BAKERS' BREAD AND OTHER BOOKS ON BAKING <*** (ILLUSTRATED) •*<■* BAKERS' HELPER CO. CHICAGO 1921 Copyright, 1921 Bakers' Helper Company CONTENTS Page I. General Suggestions 11 II. Slab Cake, Box Cake, Loaf Cake 26 III. Cakes for Special Occasions 38 IV. Roll-Cakes, Layers, Etc 54 V. Miscellaneous Cakes 77 VI. Making Pastes 85 VII. French Pastries 118 VIII. Cookies or Hard Cakes — How to "Work Them 128 IX. Machine-Made Cookies 152 X. Small Fancy Cakes 157 XL Yeast Raised Doughs and Pastry 174 XII. Tea Biscuit, Scones, Muffins, Etc 198 XIII. Icings and Fillings ■ 203 XIV. Pies and Pie-Making 220 XV. Puddings, Jams, Jellies 231 XVI. Ice Creams, Ices, Syrups, Etc 236 XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale 247 Index 281 PREFACE THE popularity of Mr. Richards' other works, because of their eminently practical value, is sufficient guarantee of the practical value of Cakes for Bakers. This book is designed especially to fill the needs of bakers who cater to good family trade. The formulas given have been adapted to modern practice, tested thoroughly, and may be relied upon for the production of quality goods, the kind that bring repeat business, at prices satisfactory to the customer. Recipes are the principal thing bakers look for in a book, but good descriptions, with illustrations, and suggestions for the best methods of finishing cakes for sale, constitute very useful supplementary information, and much matter of this character is included in Cakes for Bakers. The illustrations, both of finished goods and details of decorative designs, studied with the text, will afford any baker of ordinary experience all the help he needs for fancy work, as well as for neat and tasteful finishing touches on everyday products. Swedish and Danish pastry doughs are well represented, and any baker used to handling pastry will find no trouble in making them. Full directions have also been given for mak- ing many more of the European style torten and pastries. The varieties in every line offer the baker a wide choice for any class of trade. The publishers feel that a real need will be met, and much help in "selling more cakes" will be given, by publishing Paul Richards' Cakes for Bakers. THE PUBLISHERS. I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS Aerating Agents Baking Periods Baking Temperatures Cake Machines Effects of Altitude Eggs and Their Use Flavorings Flour-Batter Method Mixing — Hand, Machine Pans for Baking Selection of Materials Shortenings Sugars and Syrups Variation in Flours I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS SELECTION OF MATERIALS In cake making the selection and buying of the materials should be the first consideration. The chief ingredients are flour, eggs, shortening and sugar ; and of these the most expen- sive are the butter and eggs, the prices of which vary during the seasons, and in the winter time rise very high. To obtain a uniform cost price the year through for materials used, the provident baker contracts for eggs early in the spring or summer and puts them in storage to use when prices begin to rise during fall and winter. Butter may be bought and stored in June for the same reason. This equalizes the cost of these high-priced ingredients and prices and quality of cakes may be kept up to the same standard. Another important point in cake making is the study of the ingredi- ents and how to compound them into a well-balanced formula. A baker must not be content with simply following the instruc- tions given in formulas. He must think and use good judgment in the compounding of the different materials. Correct weighing and measuring of all ingredients must be observed to ohtain the best results. Conditions and materials vary continually and very much depends on the good judgment of the workman. In the prepa- ration of a cake formula there must be a certain balance of materials to obtain the best results. If this balance is upset, the final result will not be satisfactory. VARIATION IN FLOURS We find a marked variation in the character and baking qualities in the same grades of flour from year to year. In selecting flour for cakes we find that a good grade of soft winter wheat flour is best adapted for cake baking. WiirEeF" wlieaEs*~grown in Ohio, Indiana 'and MissonTf-contSm more gluten than those grown in Michigan. The strong, hard, spring wheat flours are a disadvantage in cakes, as absorption 11 CAKES FOR BAKERS and moistening is accomplished with expensive materials. In some cake formulas a strong flour, or a blend of strong and soft flour, is preferred at times, because it will hold up a cake better than a flour with a soft gluten. There is no standard for cake flours, and the variations we meet in the various flours on account of their different characters must be judged with due regard to suitability^ Some millers prepare a special milled flour for cakes. In some cake bakeries flours are mixed in the bakery, blended with rice flour or corn flour for certain grades of cake. In the making of pie dou ghs, shortbreads and cookies, a moderately soft- flnnr mjis t be used; a ha rd flour would spoil these goods. For certain grades of pastry a strong flour, but not of too harsh a gluten, gives best results. With some shortenings a stronger flour is required than with others. A high quality flour is considered best for pastry ; also for cream puffs and eclairs, etc. New flours are as troublesome in cake making as in bread "making, because they contain too much moisture, but they gain strength with age. " ' — — A Hour of average strength requires about half its own weight in li quid to moisten it sufficiently for the purpose of cake making; and in practicefit is found that % of an ounce oFBaking^powder of normal strength is requirecTto" aerate a pound of flour." " In compounding a cake or making up a recipe, we must judge the strength of a flour, its absorption, action of sugar and shortening, and the amount of eggs by weight, in pro- portion to the flour. EGGS AND THEIR USE In small sponge goods the amount of eggs used varies greatly. For lady finger and other small cakes, where one pound of eggs are used to one pound of flour, a medium grade of cake flour is most suitable, while in others, where 1>'> pounds of eggs are used, a strong flour is preferable. In other mixes of the water sponge cake variety, where the formula calls for less eggs than flour, for instance, 1 pound eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds flour, we prefer a blend of strong and medium strong flour. We know that a pound of eggs will aerate and moisten only a pound of the flour, also 12 CAKES FOR BAKERS that one pound of flour requires half its weight in liquid to moisten and % ounce baking powder for aeration. The 2 pounds flour require, therefore, 1 pound water and lVa ounces baking powder to moisten and lighten the cake in addition to the eggs. Eggs are used somewhat for their food value, but prin- cipally to moisten and lighten the cakes and act as a binder to retain the air cells created during the mixing process, and in baking. Fresh eggs, frozen canned eggs and concentrated eggs are all used successfully in cake making. The fresh eggs broken from the shell are the best. Canned fro zen eggs are ' sold separated i n whites and yolks._ aiso~THe~whole egg brok eTTahd frozen . "The eggs are broken and separated "under Very sanitary conditions, separated and, after being canned, frozen and placed in cold storage until desired for use. Many bakers contract for these eggs when prices are low and the eggs are held until needed by the baker. This makes it very desirable, for even the small baker can have eggs at a stand- ard price. The frozen w hites, if carefully sepa rated, free from yolks, have al Tthe qualities of the whites fr om fresh eggs and keep~weITTn cold storage. If a baker uses frozen canned yolks, itT s preferable to require the packer to mix the separated yolks with a good porti on of whole eggs. This is necessary, because the separatecTyolks, in freezTng7~nnd"ergo a hardening process of a nature which is not fully understood. Some packers mix a large quantity o f sugar with the yolk s to prevent hardening. In using dried eggs^ a baker should be careful to obtain th e entirely soluble article. These eggs are made into a solution a'hthreeTTlike the fresh egg. SUGARS AND SYRUPS Su gars and syrups and also molasses are used for the pur- pose of sweetening. They have a flowing and spreading action in cakes when subjected to heat. In some cakes, such as cookies, macaroons and wafers, they are used in large quantities and are the chief factors to give these goods their crisp and flat appearance and to make them spread and flow. In s oft cake mix tur es, if used in excess, t he cakes will rise and fall in baking and produce a coarse texture. ""Ifi every Bakery "different kinds of sugar should 6e Kept on hantt"to work with. 13 CAKES FOR BAKERS ' Fin e granulated su gar, brown sugar, standard powdlered sugar and XX XX powdered ic ing sugar. Sjt^ad^M^powdered sugar is considered best for soft cake mixing, as coarse sugar does not properly dissoTW in the creaming and causes a poor tex- ture in the cake and often spots on top of the baked cakes. EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE In the high altitudes the usual amounts of sugar used must be reduced considerably or the cake will rise and fall in baking. The a ltitude affect s especially the richer grades of cake. If you' use a pound of sugar in lower altitudes, each pound of sugar may be reduced from 2 to 6 ounces ; the higher"*the_altitude, the less sugar. Shortening and baking powder also require reducing. The air pressure grows less as the altitude increases and less rising or aerating power is required in the formulas. In ladyfmgers and sponge mixtures from 1 to 2 ounces more flour to the pound are recommended. It is also noticed that water boils below 212 degrees and apparently less heat will require longer boiling or cooking than at lower altitudes. General directions given by bakers working. in these high altitudes are to cut down sugar from 1 pound in lower altitude to 12 ounces in higher altitude. Table of Changes for Wine Cake Mixture Altitude Flour Eggs Milk Sugar Lard Baking Powder . Chicago 590 ft. 10 lbs. lqt. lgal. 6y 2 lbs. 31/2 lbs. 6 14 ozs. Denver 5,280 ft. 10 lbs. lqt. lgal. 6 lbs. 3 lbs. 6 ozs. Idaho Springs 7,500 ft. 10 lbs. lqt. lgal. 6 lbs. 21/2 lbs. 5 ozs. Leadville 10,200 ft. 10 lbs. lqt. lgal. 3 lbs. 21 2 lbs. 3 3 /4. ozs. Ladyfmgers and sponge cake stand from 1 to 2 ounces more flour to the pound. For macaroons, etc., reduce sugar or increase flour, and watch results. CONCERNING SHORTENINGS Butter and fats are used for shortening, and the good flavor of fresh butter is considered the best flavor in good cakes. But 14 CAKES FOR BAKERS even the best grades of cake are not always made up from all butter, and a percentage of butter with a good neutral fat is pronounced more" satisfactory _in_many ways! A good high g rade butterin e is prefer able to a low seconoT~grade butter~and is more healtKful. The use of goocTedible vegetabT e fats is rather an im provement. Butter varies greatly~and contains other substances, usually salt and water, while the neutral fats are almost 100 per cent pure and always more uniform, and therefore better than butter from the standpoint of health and as far as cleanliness of production and uniformity is concerned, also in absence of rancidity and reasonable price. Some especially suitable grades are pre pared for c akes, otherjrToT" pastryTand puff pastry can be more easily ma de ^?rom" a good Butterine, especially during warm weather, because it is less affected by the heat. When replacing butter with butterine or other fats which are almost pure fat, only l4n5unces~of the fat should be used to repl ace the 16 ounces of "BuEfer^with^a judicious addition of salt, which is an important factor for flavoring when using~~neutral fats. To meet high prices of butter some "bakers mix a week's supply of butter and substitute together in the dough mixer. The percentage of butter used may be changed to suit the different classes of goods made. The blendin g^ together of bot h fats produces a b etter assimilat ion of the two. AERATING AGENTS Baking powder plays a very important part in the aeration of cakes. Many bakers mix their own baking powder fresh every day to have a uniform article. It is not a good policy to buy a baking powder because it is low priced. Some powders dry out the c akes in baking, ot hers work too fast in the mixture when liquid is added and musTbe handled~qulcEIy. The old favorite standard used in many bakeries is to mix a baking powder with 2 pa rts cream of tartar, 1 part bicarbonate of soda and 1 part of flour or starch . This is a good_bakin/ "powder for al T general purposes! Cream of tartar and soda are also used in many formulas ; that is, two "parts _cream_of tartar are_sifted in the flour and the soda dissolved in the Hquid^or creamed in withTHe~shorteningT'"or both chemicals are sifted into the flour. 15 CAKES FOR BAKERS Because of the high price of cream of tartar, a very good substitute, w hich is even better than cream of tartar, has t>een found in phosphate powders (or cream powders). These powders are made up to the santelffrerigEh as cream of tartar and the gain in using this powder is not in the lower price. It is bet ter f rom the standpoint of health, for the residue, after the~action of the soda is comple'ted^sT not only non-injurious, but distinctly h ealthful in its composition. From the bakers standpomfHEFe gain is in the slow working of the phosphate powder in the mixture. It is not affected by moisture until the oven-heat strikes it, while in other powders, c ontaini ng ta£tsuac_acid, the mixtures must be h urried in the oven! "Ks these cream powders may be used in the same proportion as cream of tartar no change in formula is required. ThjLjjhos- phate powders ha ve not th e same whitening and bleaching effect, nor do they produce the" same moisture, therefore in the whiteTcakes, such as angel cakes and others, where cream of tartar is used alone without soda, cream of tartar is prefer- able and best to use for whitening. As aeration is produced by the addition of baking powder or other chemicals, these sh ould be sifted thoroughl y with the jlour, or with that part of the flour added in the fi nal mixing to assure even distribution, an3~it" is the custom in many bakeries to prepare a mixed flour containing the chemicals. This is best suited for mixtures where only very small por- tions of baking powder are used. For instance, instead of sifting 1 ounce of baking powder into a general pound cake or loaf cake mix, containing 8 pounds of flour, the baker keeps a self-raising flour on hand which contains 1 or 2 ounces of the chemicals for each pound of flour. If the formula calls for 1 ounce of the chemicals, 7 pounds of plain cake flour and 1 pound of the self-raising flour is used and the proportions are increased, adding more of this flour as the formula calls for it. One may blend say 5 pounds of the baking powder with 80 pounds of flour or as required for a week's use. This insures even distribution and makes work easy and small amounts of baking powder may be weighed out accurately. This same method may be followed when using ammonia in small cakes. This chemical is used in very small quantities and some bakery scales are not made to scale 14 ounces or \'.> 16 CAKES FOR BAKERS ounces. By mixing the well powdered chemical with double weight of flour the small quantities may be scaled more accu- rately where only a small mixture is made. MIXING BY HAND OR MACHINE The keeping of the materials used for mixing the cakes at a proper temperature is of the greatest importance to obtain good results. It is as necessary to control a cake dough as it is to control a bread dough. It is also more economical, as a great saving is obtained by keeping the materials in the best condition for mixing. Fats soften and become rancid, eggs become weak and lose flavor, fruits also t suffer in too warm a temperature. It is well to have the cooler or ice box handy to the mixing room to save steps and time. Many of the large bakeries have a large room or refrigerator where the materials are kept often provided with table for rolling puff pastry, which requires cool handling. For mixing cakes by hand or machine the object aimed at is the proper aeration. Doing this labor by hand only com- paratively small mixtures can be made at one time and the proper creaming of more than 3 or 4 pounds of butter with the same quantities of sugar, etc., is about the limit for hand labor, no matter how strong. A man doing this work cannot do it to perfection if these amounts are exceeded, while a machine does this work with ease and the quantity is only limited by capacity of the machine. T3ut even in machine work there is a certain amount that a machine will mix best, and too small a quantity or too large a quantity may produce less satisfactory results. In the process of mixing the sugar and shortening or flour and shortening in certain portions are creamed light, and dur- ing this process the sides of the bowl or mixing kettle must be scraped down several times. The best re sults are obtained by creaming sugar and s hortening oF flour and shortening fully before adding a ny eggs^A rich mixture in which sugar and shortening is creamed very light is apt to curdle when eggs are added, especially if they are warm, while if kept at a cool temperature — from 45 to 55 degrees — and added in small por- tions the mixture will cream up perfectly. If the fat or butter is_toospftat the start in mixing the cream turns oily and when 17 CAKES FOR BAKERS the eg gs are beate n in the o il prevents the forjna±ion„J)f__air__ cells._ All these troubles are avoided by having the materials kept at the proper temperature. The methods of mixing are varied. When using dry milk this is creamed in with the shortening and sugar, and it may be said that dry milk and water produce a better texture in the machine made cake than liquid milk. In the average process of mixing used successfully by hand or machine the sugar and shortening or flour and shortening is creamed light, then the eggs, which may be slightly beaten to mix yolks and whites, are added in small portions to the cream, beating them in well after each addition and thus beat them in as fast as the mixture will take them up. To preve nt^ curdli ng of the butter and sugar cream, a small p ortion of^ourmay be added after adding the second and [ thirdjportion of the eggs. This will keep the cream in good condition. Vff milk "is used this may be added in two or three portions. ^ After eggs are all / added, add a portion of flour, mix smooth, add a portion of the } milk, then the remaining part of flour, then the balance of the milk. This is the better way than to add all the milk before ' adding the flour. In some of the commercial cakes, which are made with compounds and are best beaten up in a machine, a part of the sugar, the shortening, the milk powder and a part of the flour are creamed light. The eggs are beaten light with the other part of the sugar, the egg batter is mixed with the first part, then the liquids are added with flavor and the balance of the flour and mixed smooth. Flour-Batter Method Another method is known as the flour-batter method. In the rich grades __of ; cake known as pound cake, which contain no milk, all of the sugar and eggs are beaten togeth er, flour andsjualfining are creamed in even quantities, the egg batter is mixed withlhe^flour batt er, and the balance of the flour is added last_ There Ts usually very little flour in these mix- tures, and if there is any baking powder to be added this is done with the last part of Ihe~n7 mr.~^ WiiiTE j s addgd to these mixtures whenjhe last part of jlour'is about half mixed in and the mixing, Jnished. The process "is best adapted~for 18 CAKES FOR BAKERS machine, and both parts may be done at the same time, but the process can be done by hand. This method gives be tter aeration, pr oduces a smoother gr ain,_ and less baking powder is required in this process. A mixture containing milk and baking powder, a medium grade of pound cake or loaf cake, may be worked as follows, for example: 3 pounds butter, 3 pounds compound, li/ 2 ounces salt, 9 pounds standard powd. sugar, 2i/ 2 quarts eggs, 2i/ 2 quarts milk, 6 pounds hard flour, 6 pounds soft flour, 11/2 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. Cream shortening with 6 pounds strong flour, beat up eggs and 5 pounds sugar, sift baking powder thoroughly into the soft flour. Dissolve the balance of the sugar in the milk. Do not beat eggs and sugar too light, only about half as light as for sponge cake. In mixing, the egg batter should be rather shaken than mixed in the flour batter to preserve the aeration, then the milk, salt and sugar solution containing the flavor are added carefully, and finally the flour. The process seems rather complicated, but is not so much so in practice. In mixing all the cakes the operations are very much sim- plified if the materials used for mixing are kept at a certain standard; changes in shortening, sugar, flours and baking powders often require a change in the formula. Many bakers are apt not to consider these changes as of importance, which, however, are often the cause of imperfect cakes. Each mix- ture should produce always a certain number of goods and large cakes should be weighed into the pans. The proper sizes of pans should be used for cakes sold by the pound or by the cut. Plenty o f tools make work easy and there are many small but l abor-sa ving m achines such as food choppers, etc., which save niuch time. " Cake Machines The cake machine is a very important factor in the pro- duction of cake; it saves labor, does better work and makes better goods. A small baker may use the cake machine for mixing bread and roll doughs up to four gallons, and the modern machines have usually two sizes of kettles which makes these machines useful even for very small mixes. The machines have several speeds — slow, medium and fast speed, easily regulated" heaters ol se veral sizes are supplied for 19 CAKES FOR BAKERS mixing bread doughs, creaming up shortening and sugar, beat- ing eggs and egg whites. For the making of marshmallow filling and icings the ^cake machintTis almost indispensabl e. Some cake mixtures "may be fully finished in the machm"e7T:or others the hardest part of the work, creaming or beating the eggs, may be done in the machine and the final mixing done in the mixing bowl by hand. In the richer grades of cake where the essential flavor consists of good butter, no other fla vorings are required. When using n eutral tats or compounds~~T delicate flavor of"~ essential oils "o r" high-grade spices is desirable. All flavors should be used carefully, as some of the best cak es are spoiled by the indiscriminate use of poorjlavoring or by~a low price baking__powder. The best flavoring extracts and spices are ^rnore economical than the low priced article if the flavor of the cakes depends on it. Baking Temperatures In cake baking the knowledge of baking temperatures is one of the main features. Exact degrees are difficult to give, as the nature and size of cake regulates the time and baking temperature. The different makes of ovens behave differently, and the meters do not register the baking heat alike, but most all ovens can be fairly well regulated by means of opening doors and dampers and studying the results. Thus by close observation a baker can fix his own scale for the oven he is using. Close observation of the firing to obtain and hold the proper heat, also the differences of a rising heat or declining heat must be watched. It makes quite a difference in baking cakggjfj he oven heat is going up or down. When the tem- perature is r ising the he at is brisk and the oven h as generally j nore top hea tjh^n^o^mjieat. When the oven heat is going down, the h eat de clines gradually, often the bottom lieaFTs "^sjrojlgsr than the top heat. Some ovens retain a steady baking heat better than others^ These variations must be studied in baking. The average heats for cake baking are given about as follows: A temperature of 50 0_ to 550 d egrees is termed a fla sh heat or a quick heat. T his temperature occurs usually when~th e"oven is freshly heated, a nd at this point the oven has always plenty ofjojjjieat "Thi s degre e of heat is only 20 CAKES FOR BAKERS used for a few small goods to give color. After the oven stands for some time the heat evens up,J x)ttom and top heat becomes more evenly distributed, the meter will register from 420 to 450 degrees. This temperature is used for small puff pastry which requires a brisk hea t. 420 to 450 djg grees is also ~a gooa~heat for lady fingers and some kinds of jelly rolls which must be baked quickly to stay sof t so they can beToIIed. T his de gree ls~6TtelTternied a " hot ov en" or "good heat." Larger pu ft paste goo ds such as patties, etc., are best baked in an even heat of from 350 to 420 degrees. A sharper heat prevents these goods from rising properly. A temperature of from 300 to 350 degre es is termed ' " moderate heat" or "cake heat." 350 degrees is used for fairly rich layer cakes, 330 to 340 for cakes baked in frames or in slabs, from lVfc to 2 inches in thicknes s. Light cakes which contain a large quantity o f milk an d bak ing~po wder, very soft m ixtures , also mixtures containing st arch and flour require a stronger heat T quicker baking. A heat of fronf"300 to 350 "degrees is termed a "m oderate oven." This temperature is also called "steady overT' and rich heavy pound cakes , also large slabs, are baked successfully in this heat. The cakes must be well protected, baked in frames with asbestos bottj: In some ovens the heat may be maintained St6aCfiTy7'anCr sometimes increases, while in other ovens not heated con- tinuously the heat declines and drops. In the baking of large cakes' it also depends on the size of batch. If a full oven is baked, the cakes protect each other, so to speak, and the steam rising during baking tempers, the heat and the cakes bake more evenly, and a whole batch of cakes may be baked in a higher temperature than only a few cakes. If it is possible it is best to bake a large batch of cakes, following the rule that certain kinds of cake of the same weight and size will bake more evenly and perfectly than a .few in a given time, or at least make arrangements to bake large cakes to be used for Friday and Saturday trade, leaving some also for the Monday trade. This permits the cakes to be baked in full oven batches which bakes them better. Where this plan cannot be followed, to compensate for th e iqpir nf pfcpaTw, the small batch of loaf cake may be protect ed by making an encl osed space in the oven, forming a frame ot 21 CAKES FOR BAKERS long bread tins filled with, water, or build a frame of . wood blocks previously soaked in water. This will be a great help in having the cakes bake up evenly. A small batch of cakes baked without protection seems "to concentrate the heat upon the cakes and they bake up with a dry crust. The same cake baked in different temperatures will not be the same in appear- ance. Cakes containing fruit require a low but steady heat. Fruit cakes may be baked in a heat from 25 to 280 degrees,^ and mostof the fruit cakes suffer from too muchjieat;. If possible they should be baked with the door and damper closed so that the moisture js_r£tained. A low but ste ady hea t pre- vents the top and bottom from having the~BItter, burned fruit and sugar taste often found in these cakes. The baking time is regulated by the weight and thickness of the cakes, also by the amount of fruit. It is well to have a pan of water near the fireplace in the oven and where the fire is too high or too strong drop it. This prevents hard crusts in baking. The size and thickness regulates the time of baking, but as the class of cakes varies and different heats are required for baking, the time can only be given approximately. Baking Periods Sponge cake, 8-10 ounces each, 30 minutes. Angel cake, 8-15 ounces each, 20 to 35 minutes. Sponge cake, blocks 1^4 inch thick, 2% pounds, 20 minutes. Angel cake blocks, 1^4 inch thickness, 2 :! 4, pounds, 22-25 minutes. Plain pound cake, V2 pound each, 25-30 minutes. Plain pound cake, 1 pound each, 35 to 40 minutes. Pound cake with fruit, li/ 2 pounds, 45 minutes. Pound cake with rich fruit, 2 pounds, 60 to 65 minutes. Pound fruit cake, 5 to 6 pounds, 2% hours. Heavy fruit cake, 7 to 8 pounds, 31/2 hours. The given jime d epends on the ric hness of the c ake and also very much on the t hickness a nd amount of f ruitT so that variations must be judged accordingly. Cakes musFnot be disturbed tqo_early .during baking, which causes them tojunk_ in the center. After baking the cakes are best left until quite 22 " CAKES FOR BAKERS col d, an d fr uit cakes ar e improyed__ifallowed_to age for some time in a moderately co ol temperature. In the small bakeries where there is a large mixed trade often several cakes are made from one mixture such as small loaf cake, wine cake, layers and cup cake. These cakes are often baked in temperatures ranging from 350 to 450 degrees right in succession with good results, while otherwise they would require separate heat. The larger goods are put in the oven in a corner where the heat is steady, with damper open ; next are baked layer cake, and by the time the cup cakes are dropped out ready for the oven the first cakes are partly baked, the cup cakes, which require more top heat, are put in the oven and the damper is closed. Pans for Cake Baking In baking large cakes practical bakers use standard sizes of tins, which may be bought from bakers' supply firms or made to order if so desired. The tins largely used for baking pound cakes and box cake are made of convenient size. The pans are lined with y% inch white wood and the bottom is" covered with as bestos. Pound cake tin s are used wfEE~a~ perf orated cover~which prevents" the cakes from f ormingtoo much crust~and keep s them moist in baki ng] — " The tins are made of heavy white tin with straight sides, lined with % inch to y% inch white wood ; the bottom is cov- ered with heavy asbestos. These tins are lined with paper which remains on the baked cake. To prevent the asbestos soaking up the grease and becoming unfit for use, a piece_of cardboard placed on to p of t he asbestos takes up the grease." This may be chang ed!?" it becomes too TnucIT grease-soaked, saving the asbestos. The Sizes of tins are given: A pan 15x7*4 inches, 4 inches deep, holds 4 pounds plain cake or 5 pounds fruit cake. A pan 20x5 inches, 4 inches deep, holds 6 pounds plain cake, 8 pounds fruit cake. A pan 18x714 inches, 3 inches deep, holds 314 to 3^ pounds plain white or yellow cake — box cake. A pan 11x6 inches, 2 inches deep, hold 3*4 pounds fruit cake. 23 CAKES FOR BAKERS A pan 18x11 inches, iy 2 inches deep, holds 2*4 to 3 *4 pounds wine cake or dark cakes. A pan 19x1114 inches, iy 2 inches deep, holds 2-%, pounds sponge cake or angel food cake baked in dry pans without lining. For special cakes, such as Christmas cakes, wedding cake, the sizes of pans are made to hold weights of from 3 to 10 pounds baked in suitable ti ns or hoops w ith the proper protec- tion of several thicknesses of pape r on s ides and bottom to prevent burning or browning. The usual tins which are used in the baking of sheet cakes can be used by setting a wood frame in the pans to obtain straignt sides, out it is preferable to have some pans of this size* made to order of strong material and straight sides if t he sheets ar e~~put together in two or three layers with jelly or marshmallow. This saves trimming and is more economical when preparing the cakes for sale. FLAVORINGS Butter Flavor Oil and Cake Flavors Bn ttpr flavors are used in many of the commercial cakes with success. The flavor oil as well as the concentrated extracts or oils may be bougmTfrom deale rs in esse ntial oils, and many bakers compound their own riavors. To use the c oncentrated butter flavor , which is at present market price $2.80 per pint, from 3 to 5 ounces are mixed into 100 pounds of neutral fat or compound with from 3 to 4 pounds of fine salt. Sufficient of the flavored compound is prepared for several days' baking. Another metho d used is diluting the essential oils with deodorized cottons eedoil in smaller or large quantities, and salt is used in the mixing of the cakes. Butter Flavor Oil 12 pounds deodorized cottonseed oil, 11/4 pounds oil of orange, % pound lemon oil, i/ 2 pound walnut oil, y 2 pound butterscotch flavor. For a smaller formula use ounces instead of pounds. Use i/ 2 ounce of this oil for 8 to 10 pounds neutral fats. 24 CAKES FOR BAKERS Mansfield's Butter Flavor Oil 1 barrel white cottonseed oil (about 31 gallons), 4 pounds lemon oil, 4 pounds orange oil, 2 pounds rose oil, 2 pounds walnut oil, 2 pounds butterscotch flavor. Use 1 ounce oil for each pound of neutral fat. English Butter Flavor Oil 200 pounds white oil, add 3 pounds orahge oil, IV2 pounds lemon oil, 2 pounds walnut oil, IV2 pounds butterscotch flavor. Use from !/2 to 1 ounce for each pound of neutral fat or com- pound. Lemon or Orange Flavor Oil 6 pounds white oil, 1 pound of best grade of lemon or orange oil. Mix and use sufficient for flavor. Almond Flavor Oil 8 pounds white oil, y% pound sweet almond oil, 4 ounces bitter almond oil. This flavor is used for white cakes, also for flavoring mocha almond cream. A combination of % part orange oil, i/2 part lemon oil, y^ part almond oil, may be used as a butter flavor or cake flavor. Spice Mixture for Dark Fruit Cake To obtain a uniformly spiced cake and to save time in the weighing out of small quantities of spices, mixtures of various spices may be kept on hand in well-covered cans. The addi- tion of a small part of sugar to mixed spices ret ains the essen- tial oil to a better degree. Use fresh ground spices of best grade. Take^"2^ouhds~cinnamon, 1 pound allspice, 1 pound ( mace, ^ pound nutmeg, V2 pound cloves, 1/2 pound ginger, 11/2 pounds powdered sugar. Rub well together and keep in tightly closed jars. For light colored pound or fruit cake a combination of 1 part mace, y % par t nulmeg , also the grated rind of lemons or oranges, is most desirable. 25 II. SLAB CAKE, BOX CAKE, LOAF CAKE WHITE BOX CAKE 11 pounds standard powdered sugar, 7 pounds compound or 5 pounds compound, 2*4 pounds butter, 1% pounds milk powder, 5i/ 2 pounds egg whites, 11/2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 pound cornstarch, \iy-i pounds bread flour, flavor of almond or vanilla or both, 2 ounces salt, 5V 2 pounds egg white, 2*4 quarts cold water. Cream 9 pounds sugar, shortening, dry milk and starch light. Beat egg whites stiff and add 2 pounds sugar. Add second part to first part with flavor desired, mix and add the water with salt dissolved, mix again, then add the flour with cream of tartar well sifted together and mix smooth, beating it well in the final mixing. Bake like pound cake. Silver Cake No. 1 — 8 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 2 ounces salt, % pound bread flour, i/ 2 pound cornstarch, 1 pint milk are creamed together; 3 quarts of egg whites are beaten fairly light and added in small portions to first part. Add flavor and IV2 quarts milk; then 8V2 pounds cake flour, U> pound pow- dered sugar, 21/2 ounces baking powder sifted together. No. 2 — Cream together 7 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound milk powder, 6 ounces cornstarch, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds compound, 4 ounces bread flour, V2 ounce salt, flavor of orange or vanilla. Beat light 2 quarts egg white, V-j ounce cream of tartar, add 1 pound powdered sugar. - Mix with first part and add 3 pints cold water. Then add 1 pound cornstarch or rice flour, 8 pounds bread flour; beat mixture well in the final mixing. White Box Cake — Silver Slice Cream together 5 pounds powdered sugar, 4 1 / : > pounds com- pound, 3 ounces salt, % pound dry milk, 10 ounces cornstarch, 26 CAKES FOR BAKERS 1 pound bread flour, 4 ounces butter flavor oil. Beat light 31/2 quarts egg whites and add 31/2 pounds sugar, IV2 ounces cream of tartar. Bring both together, then add % ounce soda dis- solved in 2% quarts water; add flavor and 6 pounds cake flour, 3 pounds bread flour. Beat light in the final mixing. Bake in 330 degrees. White Cake, Almond Cake, Marble Cake 6 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds com- pound, 2 quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk, 10 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces baking powder. Flavor of vanilla or almond. For almond cake add 1/2 pound of almond paste rubbed smooth with part of egg white or milk. For ma rble cake color a part with melted chocolate or cocoa, m ixin g it smooth with a little m ilk. Spread white mixture' in bottom of pan, cover with cnocoi'ate mixture and cover again with white. Nut meats of various kinds, added to white mixture, makes another variety of block cake or small loaf cake. Use flour cream or s ugar cream method/ or mix as follows : Cream stfgar and butter light, add half of egg whites and rub light, add a couple of handf uls flour, rub smooth ; then add other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix again, add flavor and milk, then rest of flour with baking powder sifted in. Mix smooth without overmixing. Small Loaf Cakes, Slabs, Layer Cake, Cup Cakes 6 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 pounds butter and compound, 3^2 pints egg whites, 5 pints milk, 8 pounds strong cake flour, 3 ounces cream of tartar, l 1 /^ ounces soda. 27 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sift flour, soda and cream of tartar together with 1 pound of sugar. Cream 5 pounds sugar with shortening, gradually beat in half of the egg whites, add about 1 pound of the flour and mix smooth, add other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix White Loaf Cake with Cornstarch again, then add milk, flavor and the remaining flavor sifted well with soda and cream of tartar, mix and beat smooth. Mixture may be made into a large variety of cakes, also in marble cake, as above, by adding chocolate. 3 pounds butter and compound, 6 pounds powdered sugar, 1 quart egg whites, 3 pints milk, 3 pounds cornstarch, 3 pounds cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder, vanilla or almond flavor. Mix like white cake above. Beat well in final mixing, bake in good heat — 350 degrees. White Mountain Cake Use previous mixture, leaving out .cornstarch, using 6 pounds cake flour. Bake in layers, put together 3 or 4 layers w ith icing or marshmallow bet ween, \ce_top_and__sides, and sprinkle thickly with shredded cocoanut. Delicate Cake 31/2 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, -3 pints of egg whites, IV2 Pints milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces corn- starch, 2 ounces of baking powder, flavor of vanilla or almond. 28 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sift and mix flour, starch and baking powder. Cream but- ter and sugar light, beat half of egg whites in by degrees, then add about 1 pound of flour mixture; mix smooth, add other half of egg whites beaten stiff ; then add milk and flavor, then balance of flour and mix well. Bake in moderate oven, or about 300 degrees. Mixture is rather soft, but will bake nicely in moderate oven. May be made in small oval or round sizes, scaled in 8, 12 and 20-ounce sizes. Bake in papered tins. Nut meats or freshly grated cocoanut may be added, or a few chopped nuts sprinkled on top, which is iced with vanilla, maple or caramel. White Layer Cakes 6 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 pounds compound, 11/2 quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk, 4 ounces cream tartar, 2 ounces soda, 8*4 pounds cake flour,, flavor of vanilla or mace. Cream sugar and shortening light, add egg whites in small portions, a couple of handfuls of flour with last portions of eggs; add flavor, lastly flour sifted with soda and cream of tartar. In the mixing of large batches a phosphate cream powder in place of the' cream of tartar is pref erred because~it does not Yfnrk nnf ^ before the layers are put in tne oven. Bake in 375 "to 380 degrees FT" ~~~ 29 CAKES FOR BAKERS White Fruit Slab Cake; Nut Slab; Cherry Cake Cream 6 pounds sugar, % pound dry milk, 1 pound butter, 2 pounds compound, i/ 2 pound flour, y% pound cornstarch. Beat 21/4 quarts of egg whites light, add in three portions to first mixture, mix and add 3^4 pints water, then add 1 ounce cream of tartar, i/ 2 ounce soda and i/ 2 pound of sugar sifted well into 6i/ 2 pounds cake flour. Mix smooth. Add 1 pound finely cut mixed French fruit, or fine cut cherries or apricots or pine- apple, filberts, walnuts or almonds. Bake in blocks or slabs, put together or single, frost, and sprinkle a little of the fruit on top or mix with the icing. Cut in squares or slices. Chocolate Block Cake Use the previous formula and add 1 pound melted choco- late, 114 ounces cinnamon, Va ounce cloves and leave out */> pound of the flour; use 3*/2 pints water. Bake in layer sheets or blocks, put together with marshmallow, frost chocolate and cut in squares or slices. A variety of layers or Neapolitan cakes may be made from white mixtures by dividing mixture and coloring one part pink, one part chocolate, and leaving one part white. Bake in layers or slabs and put three colors together, fill with jam or jelly, and finish with different flavored and colored icings. Browned cocoan ut and chopped nut meats may be sprinkled on icing and the canes cut in pieces to sell for 20 to 30 cents or made up in larger layers. YELLOW BOX CAKES Different methods of mixing these cakes are applied in many bakeries. The use of d ry powdered milk, creamed in 30 CAKES FOR BAKERS with shortening and suga r^Jsjarefe rred by m any bakers as an aid to better texture. In using pure vegetable fats~w hich are richer than butter, i t should be kept in mind that for every pound of butter left out only from 13 to 1 4 ounces of the fat should be used, with additional salt to add flavor. These fats also cream up more quicklyThan butter and the time of cream- ing must be shortened™ In baking box ca ke containing baking powder, the usual pound cake tins may be us ed, but without covers, and these cakes require a higher temperature in baking," a~ temperature ranging from 350 to 400 or 425 degrees, depending on the richness of the cake. Standard powdered sugar produces the best texture, but part of fi ne granulated sugar, also sma ll quantities of corn syrup, m ay be used in the yellow mixtures. Blends of cake flour and bread flour, with a small percentage of cornstarch or rice flour to give a short grain and texture, improve the baking qualities of these cakes. Standard Box Cake Mixtures No. 1 — 10 pounds powd. sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds neutral fat, 1 pound dry milk powder, 4 quarts eggs, 41/2 pints cold water, 6 pounds cake flour, 5 pounds bread flour, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. Reserve 1 pound sugar, sift with 3 ounces baking powder, 6 pounds cake flour, 4 pounds bread flour. Cream 9 pounds sugar, syrup, fats, dry milk, 1 pound of bread flour, light, then add gradually the 4 quarts eggs, then the cold water and flavoring, lastly the mixed flour containing the baking powder. Mix well and bake as directed. No. 2 — 8 pounds sugar, 3*/2 pounds neutral fat, 4 ounces butter flavor oil, 2 ounces salt, 10 ounces dry milk, 3 quarts eggs, 3!/2 pints water, 5 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds bread flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2*4 ounces baking powder, flavor of vanilla, mace, lemon or orange. No. 3 — 7 pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds corn syrup, 3% pounds neutral fat, 2 ounces salt, 4 ounces butter oil, 10 ounces dry milk, 3 quarts eggs, 3% pints cold water, 6 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds bread flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda. Mix Nos. 2 and 3 same as No. 1. Flavor as desired. 31 CAKES FOR BAKERS Gold Cake, Spanish Box Cake No. 1 — 8 pounds sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 3 pounds com- pound, 1 ounce salt, 1% pounds butter, y 2 pound dry milk, l!/ 2 quarts whole eggs, 1 quart yolks, 2 quarts water, % ounce soda dissolved in the water, 3y 2 pounds bread flour, 314 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds cornstarch sifted with IV2 ounces cream of tartar, flavor of orange and lemon. Method of mixing : Cream fats with 4 pounds sugar, corn syrup, dry milk, salt and cornstarch light. Beat eggs with the other 4 pounds sugar. When fairly light bring both parts together, add flavor, mix and add water, lastly add the mixed flour and beat light in the final mixing. Bake in about 300 degrees. Golden Cake, Spanish Cake No. 2 — Cream well together 7^2 pounds powdered sugar, 4 pounds compound lard, 3 ounces salt, iy% pounds bread flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch. When light add gradually 2*4 quarts mixed eggs (half yolks, half whole eggs), then add 2 quarts milk, flavor of orange ; add 8 pounds cake flour, 14 pound sugar and 2^2 ounces baking powder sifted together, mix well, and bake in the regular box cake tins. Standard Fruit Slabs, Richer Grades No. 1 — 5 pounds powd. sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2*4 pounds compound, 1 ounce salt, 5*4 pounds eggs, 1 quart milk, 8 pounds cake flour sifted with 1/2 ounce baking powder. Fla- voring, 6 to 7 pounds mixed fruit. Any variety of fruit may be used in the given mixture. Combinations of cherries and peel, sultanas and currants and peels. Milk must be used with di scretion^ depend ing on strength of the flour. Use the following method of mixing : Flour batter process — Cream 414 pounds flour with 4V2 pounds shortening and salt; beat eggs and sugar together, and when fairly light mix both together, then add milk, then balance of flour containing baking powder, partly mix, and add fruit, finish without over- mixing. No. 2 — 6 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 4 ounces butter oil, 2 ounces salt, 3 pints eggs, 314 quarts milk, 10 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds bread flour, 3 pounds rice or corn flour, 32 CAKES FOR BAKERS 4 ounces baking powder, 6 to 9 pounds mixed fruits, flavor of mace and lemon. For a dark cake brown sugar may be used and IV2 ounces spices added with good results. Use same process of mixing as in No. 1. Plain Nut Block— Black Walnut, English Walnut No. 1 — Cream together 3^ pounds cake flour, 3!/2 pounds butter and compound. Beat together 4V& pints eggs, 4V& pounds sugar. Sift together 11,4 pounds rice flour, 4 pounds cake flour, 11/2 ounces baking powder. Bring flour cream and egg cream together, add flavor, then 2V2 pints milk, then flour with baking powder. When partly mixed add from 1 to l 1 ^ pounds ground walnuts, or freshly grated cocoanut, black wal- nuts, filberts or almonds'. Flavor with almond, vanilla or lemon. The mixture may be made in blocks and also in small cakes to weigh about 1 or 11/2 pounds. When the baked cakes are frosted add some of the same nut meats contained in the cake to the frosting. No. 2 — 8 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 11/2 ounces salt, 2 quarts eggs, iy% quarts milk, 11 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor, 10 to 16 ounces ground nut meats. Mix as usual. Frost with vanilla and a few nuts sprinkled on top of iced cake. Bake in 350 degrees Fahr. Mixture makes 10 cakes, baked in wood-lined pans, size 10%x20xli4 inches, paper lined. Two cakes, scaled 2*4 pounds each, when baked are put together with marshmallow, and cut in 10 slices 5%x3% inches. LARGE CAKES— COMMERCIAL CAKE For high grade cake the old time poundcake, which is noted for richness, keeping qualities and flavor, due to good butter, is still a great favorite with patrons who are willing to pay the top price, and quite a number of bakers are making and selling poundcake of excellent quality. The simple poundc ak e is the base of all of the richer grades o f wedding cakes ana otner hea vy and light fruit cakes, adding the various fruits, peel, spices, etc., in different proportions. In the making of fruited cake, the fruit should be cleaned 33 CAKES FOR BAKERS and carefully examined for any objectionable substance, such as stems, grit or small stones. For the heavy fru ited cakes_ the peel is best cut in. sma ll cubes, not in_s|rips, ex cept f or special citron cakes, where it gives a better appearance if sliced. Almonds should be cut according to size of other fruits, and if any ground almonds_a re used these may be added with the eggs, The mixed frui Tcake batter_should be scalded and filled in the center of the prepared frame or hoop in one mass and gently pressed to sides and corners to smooth it evenly so that no air-space is left within the batter which may cause blisters or hollows in baking. A line of cakes are placed on the market which have the appearance of high-grade cakes and are fine eating, often looking even better than high-grade cakes; and bakers who have to compete with this line of cakes are wondering how they can be made and sold at such surprisingly low prices. Some of these cakes are made of the best materials. The wholesale cake baker buys his materials in large quantities at a lower price than the small cake baker. The large purchases and wholesale manufacture, with modern machinery and methods, enable him to place the cake on the market at a low price. In some of these cakes milk is used to replace eggs, and good neutral fats take the place of butter, the butter flavor bein g reproduced by essential oils. Dry milk is creamed with shortening and sugar, and water added in the place of liquid milk, and much of the fine texture is due to dry milk. a nd the mechanical action of t he cake machines , permeating the cake mixture with air cells. The cake machine is indispensable for these cakes, doing better work than by hand. Small quantities of cake mixtures may be worked by hand, but any amount above 4-pound mixtures is best worked by machine. In the making of cakes we suggest that bakers use discre- tion in the use of neutral fats, to give the best possible value, and get a reasonable profit. There is a class of trade which requires low priced goods; but quality goods have always proved to be a good trade builder. POUNDCAKE The old-time poundcake formulas have changed into many other combinations, and many of the plain cakes which con- 34 CAKES FOR BAKERS tain no fruit are termed poundcake, but contain milk and less eggs, or butter and fats, also baking powder and more flour. The butter used for poundcakes should be of good body, as much as possible free from salt and water. Salty butter must be washed well to remove the salt. ShoulcT neutrai iats be used in the place 01 outter it must be remembered that these fats are richer than butter and 14 ounces of fat take the place of 16 ounces of butter. The flour snould be a good strong soft flour, or a good first patent bread flour, or a blend of both. Old Time Poundcake No. 1 — 1 pound sugar (standard powdered), 1 pound but- ter, 1 pint or pound of eggs, 1 pound of flour. Poundcake with Milk No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound neutral fat, 2 pounds eggs, V2 P m t milk, 3V2 pounds flour. Poundcake with Milk and Baking Powder No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 1 pound com- pound, 3 pounds eggs, \y% pints milk, 6 pounds flour, IV2 ounces baking powder. The flavor of good butter is improved by a small addition of grated rind of lemon or orange, also by the flavor of good ground mace or vanilla extract. No. 4 — 2 pounds 2 ounces standard powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound compound, 2 pounds (20) eggs, 214 pounds flour, flavor of mace and lemon or vanilla. These mixtures may be made by both methods outlined in the chapter on mixing, using the size of tins suggested for large cake. The cakes may also be baked in individual sizes to sell by the piece, sizes from 1 to 2 V2 pounds being made in round, oval, and oblong or- square shapes, with or without center tube. The small as well as the large cakes may be used with various fruits, almonds or other nut meats. It is suggested to frost the individual cake with an icing containing the flavor, also some nuts or fruit cut fine, to give the cakes a distinctive appearance. Special Poundcakes No. 5 — 11 pounds powdered sugar, 6 pounds compound lard, 2' ounces salt, 12 ounces dry powdered milk, 31/2 quarts eggs, 35 CAKES FOR BAKERS 31/2 pints cold water, 7 pounds bread flour, 4 1/2 pounds cake flour, butter flavor. Method of mixing: Sift 11 pounds flour with 1 pound sugar. Cream 10 pounds sugar, compound, salt, flavor and dry milk with 1/0 pound strong flour light, add the eggs by degrees, then add water, and lastly the flour and sugar. Give this a good beating in the final mixing, then scale in the tins, and bake in covered poundcake pans. (See sizes given in opening chapter J "~ No. 6 — 5 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 3 pounds compound, iy 2 ounces salt, 12 ounces dry milk, 3 pounds (30) eggs, 1 quart water, 2 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake' flour. Method of mixing: Cream not too lightly 3 pounds sugar, dry milk, butter compound, salt and 1 pound bread flour. Beat together the egg and 2 pounds sugar, beat eggs only fairly light, about half as much as for sponge cake. Bring both parts together by shaking _the eg gsjightly i nto first par t, add flavor of lemon or^mace'with the~water, mix again, then add the balance of flour and mix smooth. Light and Heavy Fruit Cake From the six formulas given all kinds of light and dark cake can be made. For 8 pounds of the given mixtures add from IV2 to 2 pou nds fruit or nuts, or candied citron or orange peel. "* For a light mixed fruit cake add for 8 pounds of mixture : / 4 pounds seedless raisins, 1 pound currants, 2 pounds mixed J peel cut in dice, V2 pound candied cherries or pineapple, flavon mace and lemon. Dark Fruit Cake 2 pounds seeded large raisins, 4 pounds sultanas, 3 pounds currants, 2 pounds mixed peel, 1/2 pound figs, 1/2 pound almonds, 1^4 pints dark molasses, grated rind and juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon, IV2 ounces mixed spices. Citron Poundcake Add from 11/2 to 2 pounds sliced citron. 36 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sultana Poundcake Add from 2 l / 2 to 3 pounds sultanas. Orange Poundcake Add grated rind of from 2 to 3 oranges ana 1 pound finely cut or ground_c andied orange peel. Walnut, Pecan or Hickory Nut Cake Add from 1 to 2 pounds chopped nut meats. Use sugges- tions given for frosting given with No. 4 poundcake. Plain Pound Cake — Ice Cream Cake 7 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 4 pounds compound, 1 ounce salt, 4 pounds eggs, 2 quarts milk (or 8 ounces dry milk, 2 quarts water), 10 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread flour, !/2 pound starch, 4 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace and lemon. Method of mixing: Put in machine 5 pounds sugar, salt, butter, compound, 1 pound bread flour, y% pound cornstarch (if using dry milk cream up with shortening) . Beat eggs with 2 pounds sugar and add flavor. Add beaten eggs to first mix- ture, then add milk or water, then 10 pounds cake flour with baking powder well sifted together, and mix smooth. Bake this in sheets 1 to l 1 /^ inches thick, in wood frame; two sheets may be put together with various fillings, cut in slices or squares, fully iced and decorated. The mixture is also good for. single sheets to be cut in small cakes, diamonds, dominoes and dipped cakes. 37 III. CAKES FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS WEDDING CAKES Standard fruit cakes, such as Christmas cake and the best grades of other dark fruit cakes, may be used for wedding cakes. To the regular selling price of these fruit cakes must be added the time spent for decorating, also the cost of ma- terials used for this part of the work. As a rule bakers double the selling price of such cakes and in this price is included the cost of finishing and decorating. A wedding cake of average size to be made up in three tiers requires about 20 pounds of mixture. For example: 2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds eggs, 2i/ 2 pounds flour, V2 Pint N. 0. molasses, IV2 ounces mixed spices, 3 pounds sultanas, 3 pounds seeded Malaga raisins, 214 pounds currants, IV2 pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound blanched and sliced almonds, the juice and grated rind of 2 oranges and 2 lemons. This mixture to be baked in three graduated hoops, the tiers to weigh 10, 6 and 4 pounds, respectively. After careful baking in low heat the cakes are trimmed, and each cake is given two coatings. For the first coating a firm royal icing is used to cover and level any rough spots, and when dry, a soft icing is used for the se cond coating. The last coat is best dried quickly in a war m place t o hold the jgloss^ The cakes are then set™~eveniy together in pyramid form on a special stand or board, covered with lace paper. Some confectioners have s pecial stands of elaborate design w hich are hired out for-the^s pecial oc casions. The stands are made of silve r and add greatly to the attractive appearance of the cakes. In finishing the cakes with various decorations, bakers will find it a great aid to use s ome of the many artificial goods sold by bakscs l supply houses. Silver and gold leaves, drage'es, sprays of flowers, vases, bells, slippers, horseshoes, bride and groom on a stand, and other ornaments, make it easy for even the less skillful decorator to finish a cake nicely. _^> 38 CAKES FOR BAKERS Two or three tier cakes are popular; these are usually topped off with an ornament made of gum paste. In some cases an extra price is charged for the ornament, or the decoration may be included. The prices of wedding cakes vary, caterers who make a 39 CAKES FOR BAKERS specialty of such cakes charging from one to three dollars and more for the pound. It is the custom to present the guests at the wedding, when leaving, with a piece of wedding cake. Caterers hake slahs from the same mixture and cut oblong pieces 3 inches by 1*4 7 ' inches. The pieces are Jyjly^fr^stedjjiecorated with initials of bride and groom and placed in more or less elaborately fancy boxes, tied with fancy ribbons, which are handed to the^guests when leaving. L White Bride's Cake, or Wedding Cake White cakes are sometimes favored in place of the dark fruit cakes. These are best made of a solid lady cake or 40 CAKES FOR BAKERS delicate cake mixture without milk, also from the plain white mixtures. They are made with or without fruit, as ordered. Lady Cake with Fruit No. 1 — 3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 2 pounds 10 ounces white butter, 1 quart egg white, % ounce cream of tartar, 3 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces cornstarch (for fruit cake take 3 pounds 6 ounces bread flour, leaving out starch), vanilla or almond flavor, 11/2 pounds sultanas, IV2 pounds cherries cut in quarters, 1 pound finely cut citron, y% pound pineapple, 14 pound angelica (or 4l/ 2 pounds of mixed fruit and almonds). Method of mixing: Cream butter lightly with even parts of flour. Beat egg whites and gradually beat in cream of tartar and 2 pounds of sugar. Bring both parts together and 41 CAKES FOR BAKERS mix lightly, adding flavor. Sift balance of sugar, flour and starch and add last ; when partly mixed add fruit. Lady Cake, White Poundcake No. 2 — 41/2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 3 pints egg white, Vi ounce cream tartar, % pint milk, 41/2 pounds strong flour, flavor of almond or vanilla. 42 CAKES FOR BAKERS 43 CAKES FOR BAKERS No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds white butter, 1 quart egg whites, 1 quart milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, % ounce soda, flavor of almond, or *4 pound of almond paste dissolved in milk. Cream 2 pounds sugar light with 2 pounds of butter, beat balance of sugar with egg whites, dis- solve soda in milk, sift cream of tartar in flour. Bring sugar and butter cream and beaten egg whites and sugar together, mixing lightly, add milk and flour in two portions, and mix smooth. Mixtures No. 2 and No. 3 may be used for chocolate or for marble cake, by taking a part of the mixture and adding powdered cocoa with a little milk, first placing a part of the white mixture in bottom of pan ; cover with chocolate mixture and cover this with white again. Lady Baltimore Cake Use any of the given mixtures, adding some ground almonds or almond paste, flavor with vanilla. This cake may be made also in layers, filled and iced with Lady Baltimore filling (see Fillings and Icings). BIRTHDAY CAKES There is no standard or special style in this line of cakes, but birthday cake is a line of cake bakers should encourage and cater for. These cakes are less expensive and can be more easily made than wedding cakes, and, as they are more fre- quently called for a nicely made cake is apt to bring other trade. The lighter grades of fruit cake, and, in fact, any other cake, such as sponge cake, angel cake and layer cake of all kinds, are ordered for birthday cakes, decorated as the fancy of the patron requires. Decorations vary; the inscription or lettering, consisting of a greeting, or a name, may be used as a center decoration, and lengthy lettering may be placed on the cake in circular fashion, the lettering placed evenly apart in the place of a border and a scroll decoration placed in the center. A border may be piped on top edge and bottom and the lettering may be slightly raised by piping it over several times with a finer tube. If candles are to be placed on the cake, nice artificial candle holders in the form of flowers may be ranged symmetrically around or in the center of the cakes, arranging 44 CAKES FOR BAKERS 45 CAKES FOR BAKERS CAKES FOR BAKERS CAKES FOR BAKERS the decoration accordingly. With these candle holders, also various tinted candles, quite a nice effect may be produced. White scrolls and borders may be piped over with small pink stars or plain piping. A bottom border is desirable to cover up the space where the cakes meet the lace paper. This border is best made of scrolls or shells, applied with a large star tube, standing up on the side of the cake. CHRISTMAS CAKE The dark and rich grades of Christmas fruit cakes have decreased gradually and the lighter grades of fruit cake, plain pound cake and others are more favored by the public. But there is still a good demand for these cakes, and bakers are obliged to produce the different varieties to supply the demand. The"rich grades of cake may be made early and kept on hand a month or ^severa l weeks before the busy seasofTsliarts m, as" thesecakes improve with age. The weeks near to the holidays may be used for the less rich grades of lighter fruit cake and pound cake. In the decorating of Christmas cake, simple designs are the rule, designs which are easily exhausted, as the time required for very intricate and artistic work cannot be spared during the busy season. The style of decoration 48 CAKES FOR BAKERS may easily be varied following the most easily executed design which makes it possible to accomplish the work quickly. If a nice window display is intended, which often proves a great attraction and helps the sales, such display may be prepared early in the season as time permits. Fruit c akes are usually only deco rated on the top. JQie top is iced with fondant or soft ro yal icing ; the border is made of scrolls or in many other variations using rope or loop designs, and the center is finished with the usual Christmas greeting. Colors may be used in the designs, sugar flowers, leaves, dragees, sprays of holly and other helps, which may be bought ready-made, can be used to facilitate the work and make the cakes more attractive. (See XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale, for illustrations of Christmas Cake Tops.) Dark Fruit Cake Good ingredients are essential for all cake; a good tough but ter which creams up we l l is desira ble, and the "jal t shou ld " bTwashed ou t. If a neutral fat is used, salt may be added. The flavor of molasses is objectionable to some patrons and if this is left out a dark brown sugar and sugar coloring m ay be added, as burnt sugar is often extremely oitter. it snould be used sparingly. Some bakers re sort to bro wning th e flour in the oven to obtain darker color. CAKES FOR BAKERS / crushed and passed through a coarse sieve to remove lumps. In the followmg~~recipe§ the proportions of fruiTTTnay - be" changed according to prices obtained. Currants and some grades of candied peel, also nut meats, are very high in price, and small ^se^lessCalifornia rai sins may be used entir ely— in- the pl ace of~ currants. ThereTsTno set rule in the matter of fruits. A good neutraTfat may be used in all cakes containing spices. The_b.aking_oOniit cakes require s great care, a nd to give gloss and to produce a sm ooth~fop ~ the c akes sliould be w ashed w ith solution of one part molasses to four parts of water. The method of mixing fruit cake is practically the same for all good fruit cakes. Sugar, shortening and spices are properly creamed, the eggs are added in small portions, then milk and coloring, if any color is used. The flour is added and a part of the nourjs_ rubbed with the fruit to sep arate it. The cakes are scaled in the prepared tins, smoothid an d washed jviJJKsjwupv The sides and bottoms are well projected in" baking wi th strong paper and the cakes baked in slow heat. Standard Christmas Cake Formulas No. 1—4 pounds sugar, 4 pounds butter, 4 pounds eggs, ll/ 2 ounces mixed spices, li/ 2 pints milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 1/2 ounce baking powder, sugar coloring, 6 pounds seedless raisins, 6 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds currants, 2 50 CAKES FOR BAKERS pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound lemon peel, the grated rind and juice of 4 oranges and 4 lemons. Christmas Fruit Cake No. 2 — 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs (2 pounds), 1 quart milk, i/2 ounce soda dissolved in the milk, 3 ounces of mixed spices, 3 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds W^ -s^^r.. • ■ y J7 l £JKfifS BP •■•'•■ : " wk* * &**& MdK7*:j/' t -is£e* ^sss Sultanas, 1 pound citron, i/ 2 pound cherries cut in halves, V2 pound sliced blanched almonds, 6V2 pounds cake flour. Mix like No. 1. Fruit Cakes with Molasses, Standard Mixtures No. 1 — 41/2 pounds sugar, 5 pounds butter and compound, 5 pints eggs, 1 ounce soda creamed in with sugar and shorten- ing, 8 ounces mixed spices, 1 pint molasses, 10 pounds Sul- tanas, 10 pounds currants, 5 pounds citron or mixed peel, 5 pounds cake flour. Fruit Cake with Dry Milk No. 2 — 7 pounds sugar; 4i/ 2 pounds compound; 2i/ 2 ounces salt; 12 ounces dry milk powder; 6 ounces mixed spices; 4i/ 2 pints of eggs ; 3 pints water ; i/ 2 pint molasses ; i/ 8 ounce soda ; 814 pounds cake flour ; 2 pounds large seeded raisins, 3 pounds Sultanas; 2 pounds currants; 1% pounds mixed peel; i/ 2 pound chopped figs ; V2 pound cherries cut in halves. Cream dry 51 CAKES FOR BAKERS milk with sugar and shortening and finish like other fruit cakes. Low-Priced Fruit Cakes No. 3 — 8 pounds sugar; 8 ounces mixed spices; i/o ounce soda; li/ a ounces salt; 4 pounds compound; 4 ounces butter oil; 2 quarts eggs; 21/a pints molasses; 2V2 pints milk; 12 pounds cake flour ; 10 pounds seedless raisins ; 3 pounds large seeded raisins; 3 pounds currants; 4 pounds fine cut figs; 2 pounds citron; 1 pound orange peel; the grated rind and juice of 3 oranges and 3 lemons. No. 4 — 2V2 pounds sugar; IV2 pounds compound; 1/2 ounce salt ; 1 ounce soda ; 1 pint eggs ; 1 quart molasses ; 1 quart milk; 6 pounds cake flour; 6 pounds raisins and currants; 1 pound mixed peel ; 2 ounces spices. Molasses Cake No. 5 — %, pound sugar, 114 pounds shortening, 3 pints mo- lasses, 3 pints milk, 2 ounces soda, 2 ounces mixed spices, 6 eggs, 6 pounds flour, 3 pounds seedless raisins, IV2 pounds currants, y% pound finely chopped citron. Apple Fruit Cake — Boston Lunch Cake 3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds compound, 1 pint eggs, 3 ounces mixed spice, 3 pints milk, 3 pints molasses, 4 l /o pounds bread flour, 41/2 pounds cake flour, 4 pounds canned apples, drained, finely cut and mixed with 1 pound of the flour, 4 pounds seed- less raisins; 3 pounds currants; V2 pound ground nut meats. Mix apples with other fruits and mix as usual. Scale mixture 3 pounds in pan size 111/2x61/2x2 inches, lined with 1/2-inch wood frame, double paper on bottom, single paper on sides. Cakes sell whole frosted on top, or cut in 3 pieces. Light Fruit Cake — Genoa Cake 41/2 pounds sugar, 214 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 5 pints eggs, 1 quart milk, 7 pounds cake flour, i/> ounce baking powder, 3 pounds Sultanas, 1 pound currants, pound cherries cut in halves, 1 pound citron, i/ 2 pound orange peel, flavor of mace or almond. Mix like poundcake, using sugar or flour batter method. Bake in blocks or small frames. 52 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sultana Genoa 5 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 2 quarts eggs, 2 ounces dry milk, 1 quart water, 8 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, 6 pounds Sultanas, 1 pound of mixed citron and orange peel. Mixed Fruit Cake 6 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, butter flavor, 2 quarts eggs, 5 ounces milk powder, 2*4 quarts water, 2 ounces salt, 12 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking powder, 5 pounds mixed fruit, 1 pound of mixed peel, flavor of lemon and mace. Madeira Cake — Small Loaf Cake 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound compound, 3 ounces dry milk, 3 pints eggs, vanilla flavor, 1 quart water, 1 ounce soda, 5V6 pounds flour sifted with 2 ounces cream of tartar. Mix as usual, but mix well after adding the flour. These mixtures may be used for various kinds of nut cake, adding from % to 1 pound or less of fine chopped almonds, filberts, walnuts, etc., and if the nut meats are very dry a little additional milk may be added. Make small cakes from % to 2-pound sizes. 53 IV. ROLL-CAKES, LAYERS, ETC. It takes some practice to make a jelly roll or chocolate roll just right. The mixtures, especially the bowl mixtures, are made very soft, and must be baked in good heat. If the heat is too'auick^ the sheets are apFto blister^ in baking, which makes an unsightly looking roll. If the oven is too cool, the cakes bake too slowly, dry out and break easily when rolled. "A little practice will soon teTTwhich temperatufe~is^ best sTlited for the" mixture used for these rolls. Level, straight-sid ed pans of the usual size, 19x25x1 inch, should be greased on the sides and covered with ajsh get of pager. The mixture must be spread evenly on the paper in*"- the pan, using a bowlknife. vSponge mixtures may be laid , out with bag and plain lady "finger tube or by using a wide ^ flat tubey While the cakes are baking, put another sheet of ' , strong brown .p_aper on the table, dust this lightly with spring /^ourjjand turn the _baked sheet on t" h"e dusted paper . Now re move the __paper on which the cake is baked (this may be done b y wetting lightly)^ Spread the softened jelly or marsh- mallow evenly over the bakecTs heet, then roll carefully by lifting the paper "orTthe side nearest to you with both hands, press the sides of the sheet over and roll gently without too much pressure. Keep the roll in the paper untH cold. Then unroll the paper a nd brush off the flo ur"before cutting the*roll in piec es. Some of the mixtures may require more heat in baking than others, and again some mixtures must be rolled _c[uickly_if--oven is not just right, while, whenjjuickly bakedj_ they are best given a little_time, when turned ohThe T>ench, before spreading on the jelly; if too soft when rolled the cake is _apt_to_get heavy. To keep in the moisture so they roll' better, the pan may be left turned over the cakes on the bench, especially if many rolls have to be rolled without extra help;, These little points will soon be learned in practice. 54 CAKES FOR BAKERS Swiss Roll For Swiss roll beat together 24 eggs, iy% pounds powdered sugar, in kettle or machine until very light. Then add 1V£ pounds sifted cake flour, flavor of lemon or vanilla. Run out on papered pans, with bag and plain tube, and bake in about 400 degrees. When baked turn over and fill, spreading liber- ally with jelly or creams of different flavors. Eight ounces of cocoa or melted chocolate may be added for chocolate cream roll. This mixture, if carefu lly handled, and not baked too hard, may also be rolled when cold. It stays soft if well covered w^FpaperjOT^ajgn^~The cold roll may be filled with butter cream or other filling. ' The given mixture makes 2 pans or rolls 16x30 inches or 19x25 inches. Sponge Roll 12 whites, 12 yolks, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 pound flour and 1/4 ounce baking powder, sifted together, vanilla flavor. Beat egg whites, adding gradually half the sugar till very stiff ; stir in the yolks and flavor, and lastly, other half of sugar sifted with flour and baking powder. Mix lightly as for lady fingers, and lay out on two pans same as the Swiss roll. When baked fill as directed. Bowl Mixtures — Chocolate Roll 3 pounds sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pint whole eggs, 3 pints milk, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substitute, 10 ounces melted chocolate, 1/2 ounce cloves, 1/2 ounce cinnamon, 4Vfc pounds cake flour. Mixture makes 5 rolls on pan 18x25x1, and each roll cuts in 6 pieces. Roll while hot, fill with marshmallow. When cold cut and frost each cut separately. A fe w chopped n uts may Be sprinkled on each piece. Method : Rub sugar and eggs together in bowl, melt choco- late, adding 2 ounces lard, add to creamed sugar and yolks with spice, then add milk and soda in two portions, mix well, and lastly, add the flour sifted with the tartar substitute. Bake in 350 to 400 degrees.^Filling rolls withjnarshmallow softens the filling and the rolls are best made in thlTalterhoralmd kepF 55~~ CAKES FOR BAKERS in the papers to cool and harden until morning, or set in a cold place, and used when required. Yellow Bowl Mixture No. 1 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs, half yolks, 1 quart milk, 41/2 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substi- tute, 3 ounces melted butter, vanilla flavor. Mixture makes 5 pans. Mix like chocolate roll. Use for jelly roll, marshmallow or maple roll. No. 2 — Two Pan Mixture: 11/2 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, % pint milk, 1% pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, flavor of va- nilla or lemon. No. 3 — Three Pan Mixture: Beat 10 eggs with 2 pounds light brown sugar in bowl, add l 1 /^ pints of milk, then add 314 pound cake flour sifted with 3 ounces baking powder. Mix well in final mixing. Bake on 3 pans. No. 4 — Four Pan Mixture (very low priced) : 3 pounds sugar, 12 eggs, IV2 quarts milk, 4i/ 2 pounds soft cake flour, 4 ounces baking powder, lemon flavor. Mix like other bowl mix- tures. Bake in 375 to 400 degrees. Do not roll too hot. Many Ways of Finishing Rolls No. 1 — Spread with jam or jelly, roll up as usual, when cold sift powdered sugar over the cut rolls. No. 2 — Fill with a good pastry cream filling, roll up, and when sold ice with chocolate and decorate with a row of wal- nuts or pecans along the center; sell by the cut or by the pound. No. 3 — Fill rolls with orange or lemon cream (see Icings and Fillings). Cover the whole roll with apricot or other fruit jam and roll in short cocoanut, or omit the cocoanut and roll in fine gran ulated sugar. JDecorate each cut with a slice of ora nge _jiipped_in^aramel^sugar. Use the various nut creams,~cof-T fee flavored cream, and~other fillings in similar manner, cover I with appropriate icing. Mix lemon cream or orange cream with \ finely cut preserved pineapple, or add a few candied cherries to mixture. The outside of. the roll may be covered with the same cream and rolled in sugar or fine cut cocoanut or other ) nut meats. The rolls may be covered with fruit flavored icing or fondant and sprinkled with chopped blanched almonds light- ly browned or with short cocoanut colored pink or browned. \ 56 / CAKES FOR BAKERS Another way is to color some of the roll mixture pink, and make some small thin rolls from Swiss or sponge cake mixture. Fill and roll up, cover the roll with jam ; then take some of the light colored mixture, bake and roll it around the colored center. This makes a nice looking roll when cut. The rolls may then be finished on the outside similar to other rolls given above. .^-'"The various Mocha or butter creams may be used for filling the Swiss roll mixture when cold. They may then be fi nished with butter cream or other icings as fancy suggests. Still another way is to cojjaj^ajmrt of any of the roll mix- ture with c hocolate, another nar t pink. Use bag and tube and put mixture in alternating colors on the pap'e rTspread e ven and bak"e7"~This makes ribbon roll oF marbled roll which produces _:on£ 5rf6re variety. lVTTe1T"fihisTied~each cut should be placed_ on w axed paper. This is the best way to handle rolls in the store! Lunch Room Rolls In bakery lunch rooms, the rolls a re sold in small cuts to make one portion, and when the fresh fruits are in season, strawb erries, raspberries or fresh ripe pe aches cut in d ice^ are mixed or spre a d ov er a thin marshmallow filling a nd made up fnrjdls,, Each roll is cut into 10 to 12 cuts. They are very popular dishes to serve by the slice, with or without a spoonful of creanj, sauce or cust^rd^^^^, This suggests the use of canned preserved fruits in the 57~" CAKES FOR BAKERS same manner. Apple sauce r oll wi th cream is another popular delicacy for the lunch" room, and has proved a good seller. SPONGE CAKE I n sponge cakes, where eggs are the only lightening agent, great care must be taken in the mixing. These mixtures are ""divided into warm and cold mixtures, ana as a rule in the warm mixtures eggs and sugar are beat en togethe r. In the, cold process the whites^areHbeaten up cold, and the yolks are "stirred lightly_wfEh~ a~part_ of the sugar. The beaten whites are then added in several portions to the yolks and drawn in with the flour. In beating the whites a litt le sugar is added when the white s_siand...up^ ,_It must be put in a little at a time or the mixture will soften and become stick yT"" After mixture is beaten fully with a little sugar, the balance of sugar may be jrawji^i n light ly, but without much mixing. This method is also used for meringue. ' One of the most important points to observe in all mixtures w here eg gs__are beaten light is to have the utensils, beaters and kettle free from the least particle of grease. Even kettles which have been used to creanTbr "beat up fats and have been cleaned may contain fat so aked in the metal, and when beating up a warm mixture this may enter and spoil the mixture by preventing the eggs f rom Toeing beaten up properly? It is'well to have sepa rate kettles for heating eggs. At all times the bringing together of beate n eggs and flo ur must be done Rightly ; the flour must be weTT sTfted land dryT~If w ater or milk is added it should be ho£_but n ot boiling , so it will not destroy the lifting power of the eggs by cookingthe whites. B eating egg whites or whole eggs on' too fast speed is apt to destrQY_ihe lift ing powe r, and ove rheatin g must be g uarded .against- The final mix i ng in of jlour is best done by hand b y turning mixture^ in a bowl.\For small hand mixtures, such as/ lady fingers, etc., after the whites are beaten up and sugar added, the stirred yolks may be mixed in with the beater, not • beaten in, only lightly mixed in. The flour may be folded in by hand, or using a skimmer or spatula ; or in mixtures where the yolks are beaten lightly in a bowl, the beaten whites may be drawn into the mix in se veral portions bef ore _adding the flour. 68 CAKES FOR BAKERS If b utter is added it should be melted and added last, w hen the flour is nearly mixed in, carefully, without overmixing. In warm mixtures it is better to have the flour a little warmed after sifting ; it will jielp the mixture. When beating whites, have them cold andsee that they are free from yolk ; the yolk will prevent wfiites from beating up fully. Some flours are weaker than others, so a baker must use judgment adding a few more or less eggs. Prepare everything, such as tins and paper, etc., before mixing, to get the mixtures in the oven as quickly as possible. Tins or frames are used d ry or gr eased and dusted with_ flour or fine sugar, or lined witn paper] Dry tins must T)e perfectly clean or the cake will stlck~ih~baking or show black spots; dry baked cakes are t urned ups i de down on cloths o r bags w hen taken from the ov en, ancT while cold they are lo osenecT from the sides by pressing the finger lightly around "iKe sides, or a knife may be run around the sides and the cake s knocked out. Ovens with strong bottom heat are apt to bake these cakes too hard on the bottom. A ring of paper may be placed in the bottom of the round tins, a square in others ; this helps to loosen the bottom . For some other cakes the tins may be lighHy~greased with a mixture of about 2 ounces of flour mixed with 1 pound lard, or the tins or frames may be greased and dusted with flour. The cakes may also be baked in paper lined tins. Angel cake tins, or tins with straight sides and large center tube, are very convenient for sponge cake; the turk's-head forms are also used. A very popular size is a large ring form 59 CAKES FOR BAKERS used by wholesale cake bakers. This form is 11 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 inches deep, with a 4 inch wide center tube. The tins are lined with paper used for baking sponge cake and butter sponge, and produce a large looking ring cake about Zy% inches wide. A pan of this size holds from 11/2 to 1% pounds of cake dough. This cake is put up in nice paper board boxes for retail trade. It is also sold by grocers by the cut or slice. Other cakes are baked in papered bread tins, scaled 9 ounces in dough, others again in sizes weighing from 16 to 18 ounces, using round, square or oval tins. Eggs m ay be w armed b y laying the whole egg s in hot ^watgr^just hot enough for "the hand to bear, or the" broken eggs may be heated by setting kettle in hot water and stirring to warm them. The sugar may be sifted on a paper set on a pan and heated in the oven , then both sugar and eggs may be beaJenjapTbgether, by hanct or machine. Lady Fingers — Finger Biscuits No. 1 — 14 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 pound cake flour, flavor of vanilla or lemon. No. 2—1 quart egg whites, iy 2 pints yolks, 3 pounds sugar, half powdered, half granulated ; 3 pounds cake flour. Method : Beat whites stiff with a pinch of salt, add a little at a time y 3 of the sugar; stir yolks light with balance of sugar and add flavor. Add yolks to meringue, mix lightly, and draw in the sifted flour. Another way is to beat whites light, 60 CAKES FOR BAKERS add a little of the sugar, then mix balance into the beaten whites as for meringue, and then add the yolks, simply mixed without sugar, then the flour. Both methods work well. Warm process: Beat together 2*4 pounds sugar, 1 pint yolks, IV2 pints whole eggs, setting kettle in hot water, or warming the sugar and eggs separately before beating up. Beat mixture until it does not flow readily from beater, then set kettle in cold water or beat in cold place until firm. Draw in 2 pounds 2 ounces cake flour and mix lightly but fully. AH lady fi nger-mixtures must be dressed up and baked off as quick ly as poss ible, because the mixtures soften and the cakes run lia"E Have p ans a nd papersr eady before s tarting, set up only a couple of pans at a time, and bake them off? " It is best that one man tends to the baking, while the other dresses the fingers on the paper; this facilitates the handling of the mixture. Fill mixture in bag, using a plain tube. Use thick pans or double pans free from grease. Run in even sized fingers on the paper cut to fit the pans, sift pow dered .S ugar over the finge rsjthen lift p aper by two corners to shake off the surpl us sugar a nd place on the pans. Bake in even heat of from 4uu to 450 degre es to a light brown color. Take the baked fingers off the hot^pans to prevent drying out. Do.^ tjjiot use hot pans for baking again , as the hgaijiay^xa^' the rfingerg_ka fgre t h ey ba ke on top Turn the cool fingers over on the table, wettheTacIT of the p aper with a brush, let soak a few minut es; then put two fingers togefle r. Pile in even rows on store pans and s ift a little ici ng__su gar over -each layer. This adds to the appearance, makmgThem look better "in tne snow case. Plain Sponge Cake Ten to 12 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound cake flour, flavor of grated rind of lemon or orange or vanilla. Work mixture the same as for lady fingers, cold or warm. This mixture may ,, be used for fingers and small drops as well as for small loaf cakes. Bake nTpapered tins TnTgreased and dusted forms:' Plain Sponge Cake With Water Three pounds sugar, 3 pounds . eggs, 3i/ 2 pounds bread flour, 1/2 P mt hot water, flavor of lemon, orange or vanilla. 61 CAKES FOR BAKERS Beat eggs and sugar warm, and when they stand up well add the hot water, mix in ■ fully, then take out the beater and lightly cut in the flour. Fill in pans and bake in good oven. Butter Sponge Cake — Warm Mixture Two and one-half pints eggs, 2 pounds fine granulated sugar, 12 ounces melted butter, 2 pounds strong cake flour, 1 ounce baking powder, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. Beat sugar with eggs as usual, then add flavoring, then care- fully stir or cut in the flour and baking powder, also the melted butter. B y adding an extra half pint of yolks with the whole eggs, this mixture may be made into golden - sponge cake. The cakes may be baked in paper-lined rings, set oh~ pans on greased paper and dusted with sugar before baking, or the mixture may be baked in dry tins, or angel cake tins, turned over after baking on bags to steam and then knocked out. Vienna Butter Sponge One and one-half pints eggs, 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces cake flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 5 ounces melted butter. Mix as suggested for preceding cakes. Bake in turk's-head or angel cake tins or in large ring forms, greased and dusted. Turn from the forms while warm and sift powdered sugar over cake. Low Cost Water Sponge Cake One pint eggs, 1 pint water, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds flour— 1/ 2 cake flour, i/ 2 bread flour, 1% ounces baking powder. Hot Water Sponge Cake for Machine Eleven pounds sugar, 3 pints whole eggs, 3 pints yolks, 4 ounces melted butter, 2 quarts hot water, 8 pounds strong cake flour, 114 ounces soda, 2i/ 2 ounces cream of tartar, lemon, orange or vanilla flavor. Method of mixing: Beat 8 pounds sugar, eggs and soda in machine for about 20 minutes ; then add the other 3 pounds sugar and beat 5 minutes more ; add the melted butter ; then turn mixture into a bowl. Add the 2 quarts of hot water, the 62 CAKES FOR BAKERS flavor, then the cake flour sifted with the cream of tartar. This makes 26 loaves of 18 ounces each. Victory Sponge Cake Three quarts yolks, 3 quarts whole eggs, 10 pounds granu- lated sugar, Sy% quarts hot milk, 8 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cornstarch, 8 ounces baking powder, flavor of lemon or vanilla. Warm eggs and sugar separately, put in machine and beat up until light or from 30 to 40 minutes, then add carefully the hot milk and flavor; fold in the flour, starch and baking powder sifted together, carefully, without over- mixing. Use mixture for sheet cake, jelly roll or large cake. Get in the oven as quickly as possible. Ohio Orange Cakes Two and one-half pints egg whites, 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pound 2 ounces granulated sugar, 1 pound 10 ounces cake flour, 1/2 ounce pure cream tartar, 3 oranges. Method of mixing : Grate rind of 2 oranges and beat light with yolks and granulated sugar. Beat Whites and when stiff beat in about V2 pound powdered sugar, a little at a time, then mix in the balance, as for meringue. Then turn into bowl and lightly mix in the yolks and fold in the flour. Bake in dry pans at 325 degrees. Turn over on bags to let cool. Run knife around the sides and knock out the cakes. /Make a soft \ icing from the grated rind of 1 orange and the juice of J 3 oranges, add half water, and sufficient icing-sugar to make / a transparent frosting. \ Size of pans for 11 ounces of dough : Top inside measure, 8 1/2 inches long, 4% inches wide; side, 3V£ inches high; bot- tom, 3% inches wide. This size cake, iced as directed, is a very good seller. The mixture may be baked in large blocks, dry pans, size HV^xl9^xl% inches deep with straight sides. Scaled 2% to 3 pounds, two pans are put together when baked, with marshmallow or orange cream. Each pan makes 10 cuts. Bake small pans in 325 degrees, blocks in 325 to 330 degrees. 63 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sunshine Cakes One and one-half quarts yolks, IV2 quarts whites, 4 pounds sugar, 3 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, grated rind of 2 lemons. Stir yolks with 3 pounds sugar, add flavor, beat whites, add 1 pound sugar when nearly stiff. Mix like orange cake. Two ounces melted butter improves this mixture. Bake in dry angel cake tins, w ith a ring of paper in bottom, turn over and let cool. Ice with lemon-flavored cream icing. Angel Cakes One pound powdered sugar, 1 pound granulated sugar, 1 quart egg whites, 14 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces cornstarch, 1 ounce pure cream of tartar, vanilla flavor. Beat whites and add cream of tartar. When nearly firm beat in one-quarter of the sugar, mix in balance as for meringue, then add flour and starch and mix lightly but fully. Bake in 325 to 330 degrees. Bake in dry pans and ice with vanilla. The mixture may also be baked in the pans used for orange cakes. Scale blocks of the size given 2% pounds in dough and when baked put two blocks together with marsh- mallow, ice with vanilla cream frosting. This mixture may be varied, making a light sunshine or moonshine cake, by adding from 6 to 12 yolks to the beaten egg whites before adding the flour. Another variety is made by adding from 4 to 8 ounces powdered cocoa, sifted with flour and starch. Frost cake when baked with chocolate, orange, lemon or caramel icing. Chocolate Sponge Cake Take 30 egg whites, 36 yolks, 2 14 pounds coarse powdered sugar, 1/2 ounce cream of tartar, 8 ounces powdered cocoa, i/4 ounce cloves, V2 ounce cinnamon, 4 ounces cornstarch, 1 pound cake flour. Mix and sift together flour, starch, cocoa, spices and i/ 2 pound sugar. Beat up the whites, beat in a handful of the sugar and cream of tartar, then mix in balance of sugar as for meringue. Now draw in the well- mixed yolks, lastly the flour and chocolate mixture. Bake in dry tins with center tube. Bake and turn on bags to cool. Frost with chocolate. G4 CAKES FOR BAKERS A variety of this cake may be made by adding nuts, almonds or roasted filberts chopped fine, and ice with choco- late ; sprinkle a few chopped nuts on icing. Butter Sponge Cake, Bowl Mixture No. .1 — 3*4 pounds sugar — half powdered, half granu- ■ lated — li/fc pounds butter, 1 quart yolks, 1 quart milk, 3^ pounds cake flour, y% pound cornstarch, IV2 ounces baking powder, grated rind of 2 lemons. Beat yolks light with 2 pounds of sugar, cream together 114 pounds of powdered sugar and butter, add flavor and bring butter cream and yolks together. Add milk, lastly flour, starch and powder sifted together. Bake in sheets in paper-lined tins or in angel cake forms. No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 3 pints eggs (30), iy% pints milk, 3 pounds 14 ounces flour, 6 ounces corn- starch, 214 ounces baking powder, vanilla or lemon flavor. Cream shortening light with half of the sugar, beat eggs with balance of sugar, mix and add milk, then flour, starch and baking powder. SPECIAL LAYER CAKE AND TART MIXTURES Poundcake mixtures, as well as the white and yellow com- mercial cake mixtures, may be made into layer cakes or other small cakes sold by the piece or slice. These cakes may be put together in two or three layers, or baked in large sheets or slabs and put together in two or three layers, to be cut into squares. There are many attractive fillings, fruit jams, jellies, butter and mocha creams and icings, and other creams, " besides marshmallow, which may be mixed with nut meats, fruits, figs or dates. A very large variety of nut cakes may be made in layers or small cakes. Quite a combination of indi- vidual cakes may. be made from the light, yellow and dark mixtures, baked in single slabs one inch thick, and the same mixtures may be put together in Neapolitan style, in layers of various colors, with different fillings and icings. French Gateau Mixtures No. 1 — 2!/2 pounds standard powdered sugar, beaten with 1 pint egg yolks, 1 quart whole eggs; 2i/ 2 pounds of butter 65 CAKES FOR BAKERS creamed with 2 pounds* of strong cake flour, 1/2 pound corn- starch. Flavor with mace and grated rind of 2 lemons. Put these mixtures together. Bake in lined pan to make a sheet about two inches thick, in baking heat of about 340 degrees Fahr. The sheets may be cut in six-inch squares, put together with various fillings, top and sides finished in many ways. No. 2 — 1 pound butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, 15 eggs, V/4, pounds cake flour, vanilla or lemon flavor. Cream butter light with 1 pound of flour, beat eggs with sugar, mix both together, add flavor and remaining flour. This mixture, baked in one-inch-thick sheet, in paper-lined frame, is very suitable for s mall dipped cakes. T hey cut best whenaday_jfild, and may be kept on hand, if well covered, for a numb erof d ays. Gateau or Genoa Slab (for Small Cakes) No. 3—2 pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, scant V2 pint milk, flavor of lemon or mace, 2 pounds cake flour. Use method of mixing previously given, add milk last, bake in one- or two-inch-thick slab in frame. The cakes may be cut or split with a sharp knife and filled with the various fillings suggested. ' Genoa Cakes With Fruit No. 4 — 1*4 pounds sugar, % pound butter, 1/2 pound neutral fat, IV2 pints eggs, 1% to iy 2 pounds fruit or peel, 1 pound 14 ounces cake flour, y 8 ounce baking powder. Flavor to suit the fruits added. Bake in small round, oval or square forms, the day before using. The cakes may be finished off in many ways. Mixture makes from four to five small loaf cakes. By changing fruit and peel, and using nut meats, a very large variety of cakes can be made from this mixture. Vienna Tart Mixture, Warm Process No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 30 eggs, 1/2 pound butter, y% pound cake flour, i/ 2 pound cornstarch or potato starch. No. 2—1 pound sugar, 12 eggs, 12 yolks, 1/2 pound corn- starch, V2 pound flour, 9 ounces butter. Method: Beat eggs and sugar warm until the mixture shows a creamy thickness and does not run off the beater easily, then continue beating until it cools so that it can be 66 CAKES FOR BAKERS noticed by the feel of the hand on the kettle. If the mixture does not show sufficient firmness it may be returned to the fire and beaten up warm again and then again cold. The flour and starch are then drawn in lightly, followed by the melted and cleared butter. Flavor with mace and lemon. No. 3 — Another Method : Heat 1 pound powdered sugar in the oven ; melt 9 ounces butter ; beat 22 egg whites stiff, then beat in the hot sugar; add 28 yolks to the meringue, with some lemon flavor; draw in y% pound of starch and !/2 pound cake flour sifted together, and lastly add the melted butter. Vienna Mixture, Cold Process No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 16 yolks, 15 whites of eggs, 1/2 pound cornstarch, V2 pound flour, 1 pound melted butter. Flavor with grated rind of lemon and mace. No. 2 — IV2 pounds powdered sugar, 20 egg yolks, 12 whites of eggs, 1 pound 2 ounces cake flour, i/ 2 pound melted butter. Flavor. Method: Beat whites stiff and beat in one-foUrth of the sugar; stir yolks lightly with the rest of sugar; mix both together carefully, add flavoring and draw in the sifted flour, and lastly add the melted butter. Sand Cakes or Sand Torten Sand cakes are made by the same methods, by the warm or cold process, as the Vienna mixtures just given. Many bakers are using the Vienna mixtures for sand cakes, because a lighter cake can be produced. The regular sand cakes are made with a smaller quantity of eggs, resulting in a more solid cake. Th e regular sand torte forms are imported. They are made from heavy pressed tin/with corrugated_sides and r ound bottom, usually about 16 inches in diameter and 4 incEes deep, with a 5-inch center tube. Many bakers are using a large round tin with straight sides, 11 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 inches deep, with a 4-inch center tube. For the sand cakes the forms are greased and dusted, or a mixture of 2 ounces of flour with 1 pound of fat is used for greasing the tins, and the cakes are turned out of the forms when baked. Some_flther bakers line the form s with paper. The well- known angel cake tins and the Turk's head fornis are also used 67 CAKES FOR BAKERS for baking these cakes. They are sold whole or by the slice or cut, without being frosted. No. 1 — Heavy mixture: 1 pound powdered sugar, 9 eggs, separated, Va pound cake flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch, Vfc pound melted butter. No. 2 — Light Mixture: 1 pound sugar, 10 ounces cake flour, 6 ounces cornstarch, 15 eggs, 4 to 8 ounces melted butter. Flavor of lemon and mace. Method: For cold process, separate eggs, stir yolks until light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat whites stiff and beat in one-fourth of sugar; bring both parts together; add flavor; draw in the sifted flour and starch, lastly the melted butter. For the warm process, beat eggs and sugar warm and cold (see method, Vienna tart mixture), heat and melt the butter; mix sifted flour and starch in egg batter; then add the hot melted butter and fill in the prepared forms. These mixtures require a good heat in baking, the same as sponge cake. ~ ' Nut Cake Mixture for Torten No. 1 — 1/2 pound ground walnuts or filberts, y% pound almond paste rubbed smooth with 4 eggs; add 1 pound pow- dered sugar and stir until light with 16 yolks of eggs; then add the stiffly beaten whites of 14 eggs and draw in 1/2 pound cake flour. Bake in layers in medium heat. No. 2 — Rub smooth 1 pound blanched almonds or other nut meats with sufficient water in mortar; add this to 30 yolks, beaten until light with 1 pound sugar; then add the beaten whites of 24 eggs and draw in i/ 2 pound cake flour. Bake in medium heat. Nut mixtures are m ade also with chocolate. Some others contain small quantities of butter. They may be varied in many other ways. V ienna o r sponge m ixtures may be used, simpl y adding the nuTmeats to t he finished mixture with the flour. ~~ .— — French Chocolate Almond Cake Cream i/ 2 pound butter and V2 pound powdered sugar until light ; add by degrees 24 yolks ; work smooth i/ 2 pound almond 68 CAKES FOR BAKERS paste with 2 eggs and add to creamed sugar and butter; then add 6 ounces powdered cocoa. Beat 12 whites stiff and draw in first mixture ; then add 4 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces corn- starch, flavor of vanilla or spices. Bake in medium heat, 320 to 330 degrees Fahr. Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mixture No. 1—1 pound melted butter, 1/2 pound blanched almonds or almond paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, 8 ounces cocoa, 24 yolks, 24 egg whites, 5 ounces sifted cake crumbs, 4 ounces flour and starch. Method : Rub al monds or paste smoo th with a little water ; stir yolks until light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat whites stiff with one-fourth of the sugar. Add almond paste to yolks, then the beaten whites, crumbs, flour and cocoa, mix, and lastly add the melted butter. No. 2 — 16 yolks, 12 whites, % pound butter melted, 6 ounces cocoa, 8 ounces cake flour, y% pound sugar, vanilla flavor. Mix same as preceding formula. High-Grade American Tart and Layer Cake Mixtures No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 14 ounces butter, 1 quart yolks, 1% pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound cornstarch, the grated rind of 2 lemons, flavor of mace, l 1 /^ ounces cream of tartar, % ounce soda. Method: Cream until light 2 pounds sugar and butter; beat the yolks until light with 1 pound of sugar ; dissolve soda in milk, sift flour, starch and cream of tartar together. Bring butter and sugar cream and beaten eggs and sugar together, add flavor ; mix in a handful of flour until smooth ; add milk ; then balance of flour and mix smooth. Bake in good heat. This mixture is well adapted for special layers and large tart cakes. Put together in from three to six thin layers, using any of the various creams, jellies or other fillings. It is especially nice for birthday torten, where a high-grade cake is desired. No. 2 — !/2 pint of yolks, Vk P m t whole eggs beaten light with 1^4 pounds of powdered sugar. Add 4 ounces butter to y% pint milk, heat together to near boiling point, or about 180 degrees, but do not let boil. Add this to beaten eggs and sugar, mix together lightly, add flavor of lemon or vanilla, CAKES FOR BAKERS then add 1 pound flour — one-half cake flour, one-half bread flour, and 14 pound cornstarch sifted with 14 ounce baking powder, and mix smooth but lightly. Bake in layers or sheets in medium heat. This mixture may be varied by adding nut meats, finely chopped or ground, such as walnuts or filberts, or blanched and browned almonds. The fillings may consist of butter creams or nut creams. Chocolate may be used in the mix- ture as well as in the fillings. Baked in slabs, these may be split and filled, to be cut in diamonds, squares or other small individual cakes. Chocolate Cream Cakes. Melt 8 ounces chocolate with 4 ounces butter ; cream light 3 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 pounds butter; add by degrees 5 pints of mixed eggs ; sift 414 pounds cake flour with % ounce baking powder, add to egg and butter cream; lastly add the melted chocolate, and finish mixing. Flavor with vanilla, or pow- dered cinnamon and cloves. Varieties of this cake are made by adding nut meats of different kinds. Butter Sponge Layer and Tart Cake Beat 1 quart whole eggs and 1 pint yolks light with 2 pounds sugar, warm. When light add i/ 2 pint hot water, mix lightly ; add the grated rind of one lemon ; then add Vk pound cornstarch, 2 pounds cake flour and % ounce baking powder sifted together; mix lightly and add % pound of melted butter. Good Layer and Sheet Cake Three pounds powdered sugar; 2 pounds shortening — half butter, half lard; 1 quart eggs; 1 quart milk; 4% pounds cake flour; 2i/ 2 ounces baking powder. This makes a good all around mixture for slabs, layers and small loaf cake. Chocolate and nut meats may be added if desired. Method : Cream sugar and shortening ; add eggs in small portions; add a handful of flour after last portion of eggs, also flavor; then add milk and rest of flour and mix smooth. Use for squares, small loaf and individual cakes. 70 CAKES FOR BAKERS THE FINISHING OF TARTS AND LAYER CAKES From the given recipes, in connection with the many fill- ings and icings presented in another chapter, the skillful, inventive workman can devise numerous different cakes, mak- ing them taste good and look attractive. The preparation and finishing of the cakes must be done to suit his patrons, as ordered. Too much sweetness in cakes is often disliked. This is a point often disregarded. There are also many bakers who use the rich icings as fillings, where a lighter filling, cream or marshmallow, would be more suitable. A tasty;, not too.~-SW. eet, fruit filling is always appreciated in^ jjcji^cake^ with fond ant icing, and a change of fillings'' anoTicings, by the" use of dTfferenFflavors and colors, often brings increased sales. Nut m eats are very popular for finishing cakjis^ Blanched chopped and Drowned almonds, filberts and cocoanut are excellent fo r finishing th e, sides^which are first coverecTwith a part of thejlllin g used in the cakes , and then covered with the chopped nut meats. Perfect halves of walnuts or pecans, and Frenc h fruit glaces are used to decorate the iced top. Tart cakes are put together in two, three or four layers. Or the cake may be baked in one slab and split in layers after baking. The icing and decoration should always, as far as possible, be in harmony with the fillings and with the flavor an d fruit or nuts contained in the cake, or with the name the cake goes byT When large cakes are to be sold by the cut, or served in slices, it is very handy to have design arranged accordingly. This is best done by dividing the iced top into eight or ten sections, and then drawing double lines to divide each piece from rim to center. Each slice may then be decorated with a scroll, nuts or fruits. Tins and Forms for Baking Tarts Tart layer cakes are best baked in straight-sided tins, from 10 to 12 inches in diameter and having a rim about an inch high. The straight sides are best, because no trimm ing is required ^.- For the cakes which are baked two or. three inches thick, there are wood-framed square tins and also round tins made 71 ~~~~ CAKES FOR BAKERS in one piece, with a large center tube, as well as rings of various sizes, made of heav^y tin, in one piece. A number of rings of different diameter are u sed, which may b e set on „ pans. There are also rings which "open on the side , and which may be set to any diameter de sired, a great convenience in making wedding and other cakes that are set together in tiers. TORTEN Queen Tart or Torte Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with strawberry jam, one layer with a filling of half almond paste and half currant jelly mixed together. The top is covered with a thin coating of marzipan and decorated with a white and chocolate butter cream, the sides being brushed with butter cream and finished with chopped nuts. Dresden Torte Three layers of Vienna or light sand cake mixture, flavored with grated rind of 2 oranges. When baked fill, and coat the top with currant jelly. Let stand for a while, then make a rather stiff macaroon mixture, and with bags and star tube make a lattice over the cake, and also a border. Then put a border of stiff paper around the cake, high enough to reach a little above the top, and set cake on a board in the oven to brown and bake the macaroon lattice and border. When done fill a little more jelly into the spaces, and finish the center of each with firm water icing. Decorate the sides with chopped nuts or otherwise. Duchess Torte Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with vanilla cream, one layer with pjnk- ^plored almond cream, t he top covered thinly wit h marzipan g lac ed with chocolate. Brush side over with apricot jam ana" sprinkle" thickly with browned an d chopped almonds; finish top in white butt er cream; decorate with a few cherries. "~ ' Mocha Torte No. 1 — Two or. three Vienna bottoms, filled with coffee butter cream, glaced with coffee fondant or water icing . CAKES FOR BAKERS No. 2 — One bottom of Vienna mixture with almonds, two bottoms of meringue. Spread first bottom with apricot mar- malade, meringue bottom with coffee cream, to which should be added some ground roasted filberts. Cover top and deco- rate with coffee butter cream, or glace with coffee fondant and decorate with butter cream. Torte Marguerite Make a filling of 14 pound marzipan, 14 pound sugar rubbed fine with a little water, and mix with i/i pound currant jelly. Fill three layers of Vienna or other mixture. Glace with pink, rose flavor, and decorate with white and pink almond butter cream by filling both colors in bag with a small star tube, so that mixture comes out in white and pink. Torte Parisienne Bake three bottoms of French Gateau mixture, fill one layer with vanilla cream and nougat, and one layer with filling used for Torte Marguerite. Spread top with raspberry jam and cover with thin layer of marzipan. Finish with vanilla fondant and. French fruit glaces"! Torte a la Conde Use Chocolate Almond Cake Mixture (see above), baked in one thick layer. When cold cut in two layers, fill with apricot jam, and glace with chocolate. Top may be decorated in portion style, with sweetened whipped cream or with vanilla butter cream. Metropolitan Torte Bake two Vienna bottoms and one nut cake bottom. Fill with the Marguerite filling, mixed with roasted and crushed filberts. Place nut bottom in the center, and before filling soak well in diluted currant jelly. Finish top same as Torte Parisienne. Orange or Lemon Cream Torten These are made in many ways. A Vienna or sponge cake mixture is flavored with grated orange or lemon rind, and the torte is made up in two or three layers filled with orange or 73 CAKES FOR BAKERS lemon cream, or orange-flavored almond paste, or butter cream, or with a combination of these fillings. Similar combinations are made by adding pineapple glaces or preserves, * freshly grated cocoanut or candied orange peel. Flavor glacing with rind and fruit juice. Special Orange Torte Bake layers of French Gateau or Genoese mixture. Fill with orange or lemon butter, and on top of each layer use layer of thin slices of oranges from which the seeds and pith have been removed. Ice with orange-flavored fondant, and decorate with orange split in the natural sections and dipped in caramel sugar. Fruit glace, or both oranges and fruits, may be employed for decorations. Almond Torte Bake bottoms of nut cake mixture No. 2. Fill with almond cream, or diluted marzipan mixture, finish sides with chopped browned almonds, and decorate with almonds or fruit glaces. Macaroon Torte No. 1 — Make a bottom of fairly firm macaroon paste and dress in paper-lined tin. Bake another bottom of the same paste, dressing it with bag and tube on wafer paper, or on a thin short paste bottom. Bake both nicely, spread one bottom with jam or butter cream, place the other layer on top after removing the paper, and decorate with chocolate or other icing. No. 2 — Bake a nicely executed top, dressed on paper with bags and star tube. Loosen paper by wetting the back. Bake one bottom of Vienna or Gateau mixture, fill with raspberry jam, and place the macaroon cover on top. Decorate with royal icing and fruit jelly. Chocolate Macaroon Torte Bake a bottom of short paste, and a top of macaroon paste with chocolate. Fill with a good fruit jam, place baked maca- roon layer on top, and decorate with jelly and royal icing. Nut Torten These are baked in a two or three-inch-thick cake from the given nut cake mixtures, simply iced and sprinkled with 74 CAKES FOR BAKERS nut meats. They are also baked in two or three layers, and filled with various kinds of almond or nut filling. Nut Fillings No. 1 — 1/2 pound nut paste or ground walnuts or filberts, 1/2 pound of powdered sugar, mix smooth with sufficient water. No. 2 — 1/2 pound almond paste, V2 pound walnuts or roasted filberts, rubbed smooth with 1 pound sugar and water. These fillings, in conjunction with mocha cream, pastry cream and the fruit fillings, produce quite a variety of fillings for nut and macaroon torten. Chocolate, caramel or vanilla icings are most suitable with nut cakes. The decorations may consist of blanched almonds, walnuts or pecan halves, or filberts, dipped in caramel sugar, and French fruits may be added with royal icing to finish the torte. Meringue Torte Bake a fairly thick bottom with a border of almond abort paste, or a plain short paste. Cover the baked bottom with raspberry or other good fruit jam. Make a meringue of */2 pint egg whites, 1 pound powdered sugar. Put on a lattice or net work and a good border with bag and tube, dust with sugar, set on board and color nicely in the oven. French Macaroon Torte Proceed as for Meringue Torte. Bake and fill bottom. Make a firm fancy macaroon paste, put on a net work and border with star tube; set on boara7and bake the macaroon cover to a nice golden color. While hot brush over with a syrup to glace, then finish with royal icing and jelly, or deco- rate macaroon top with cherry and angelica before baking, then glace and finish. ( Alliance Torte Bake three layers, using chocolate cake, almond cake, and short paste or a white layer cake. Put layers together with yellow apricot, lemon or orange on one layer, raspberry or strawberry on another. Cover top with a soft macaroon paste. 75 CAKES FOR BAKERS and put on a board, set in the oven to bake the macaroon paste. Then ice with fondant in three colors, strip or marble fashion. From the few samples it will be seen that many other fancy tart cakes may be made from fresh fruits in season, baking bottoms and borders, using fresh fruit fillings, with meringue or marshmallow or whipped cream tops, similiar to strawberry or raspberry shortcake. These cakes, if baked in slabs or thick sheets, may be made up into square cakes, or oblongs, frosted on top in one piece or sheet, cut in blocks and frosted on the sides, or finished with chopped nut meats as suggested. Chocolate cakes, white cakes, yellow cakes and .spiced cakes may be thus put together in two or three layers. /Some white mixtures may be colored pink, and cakes put to- Igether in Neapolitan fashion. In fact, an endless variety may nbecreated by the skiHiuTBaker. The lower-priced cake mix- tures may be used where the trade demands goods of medium quality. 7(1 V. MISCELLANEOUS CAKES KING OF CAKES— ROYAL CAKE These cakes are baked in round forms with a large center tube. The larger sizes are also baked in the l arge ring forms such as are used for butter sponge cake and sand torte. They may also be baked in the l ong t ins used for cream breads. Several methods are used for mixing ana hmshmg the baked cakes. The forms are greased and dusted with flour, or greased and sprinkled thickly with blanched and chopped almonds. When baked they may be left plain and sifted over with vanilla sugar, or they may be iced with fondant and sprinkled with nuts; or some fine cut cherries and nuts and peel may be mixed with the icing; or the cakes may be brushed over with apricot or currant jelly and covered with chopped nuts. The, small cakes are sold by the piece, the large cut cakes by the pound. No. 1 — 1*4 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 28 eggs, separated, 1 pound bread flour, i/k pound cornstarch, 3 ounces sultanas, 2 ounces cherries, 2 ounces citron and orange peel chopped together. Flavor of mace and lemon. No. 2 — 25 eggs separated, V/4, pounds sugar, y 2 pound butter, 114 pounds bread flour, 12 ounces mixed fruit. No. 3 — 24 eggs, V/% pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces cornstarch, 9 ounces butter; flavor with grated rind of one orange, one lemon, and vanilla; 4 ounces sultanas, 4 ounces walnuts, 4 ounces citron chopped and mixed with flour and starch. Method of Mixing: For No. 1 separate the eggs, cream lightly 1 pound sugar and butter, add the yolks by degrees, also the flavor. Sift flour and starch together. Beat egg whites light and beat in 14 pound sugar. Add half of the beaten whites to butter cream, mix lightly, and add half of the flour and starch, then draw in the other half of the beaten whites, and add carefully the rest of the flour mixed with the fruit. 77 CAKES FOR BAKERS For Nos. 2 and 3 — Chop the hard butter in the cold flour in small bits, also add the finely cut fruit. Beat egg whites light and mix in the sugar as for meringue; mix yolks with flavor and lightly mix into the egg whites. Lastly draw in the mixed flour and starch containing fruits and butter, mix carefully, and fill into the greased and dusted forms. Bake in about 350 to 375 degrees Fahr. and finish as directed. Mocha Cream Cakes 3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 21/2 pounds butter, 1 quart yolks, 2% pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound cornstarch, 2V& ounces baking powder, the grated rind of lemon. Cream butter light with the cake flour, beat yolks with 2 pounds sugar, add flavor. Sift cornstarch with baking powder. Lightly mix flour cream with beaten eggs, then add one-third of the milk, mix, and add the starch ; then add rest of milk and mix well. Bake in good heat, in sheets* blocks, layers or small individual cakes. The cakes may be put together with various flavored butter creams or mocha cream, mad e from 11/2 pounds icing sugar,/ creamed light with y% pound of white butter, or nut butter | and 2 egg whites, ly^ ounces cornstarch. Sift half of the I sugar with the starch, cream the other half light with butter, j adding egg whites. Use egg beater or machine if making up j large quantities. Flavor and color as desired. A large variety of these cakes may be made by the use of different flavors. Fruit jams and jelly make a good filling for mocha cream cakes. The sides may be finished with cream and nuts ; border and center decorations may be made of the butter cream in various flavors, and centers of French fruit glaces, cherries and angelica are very attractive. By baking tlie cakes in pan sand frame s, allowing about \y% inche s in t hicknes s when bale edTnice squares and other "small blocFcaires may De made~"RTbTcut and filled. Slices or bars may be made with the long_gt rips of cakes, which~shoula r be aboulTli£_ inches wide ; have al border of butter cream on each side, filling the centerstrip with 'j am or different flavored cream s, then cut in bars, using a s harp Knife dipped in hot waten Or the sheets may be cut in rounds or ovals, the \y%-^ 78 CAKES FOR BAKERS inch strips in squares or diamond shaped. Then the sides may be masked with cream, apricot jam or jelly, and rolled in lightly browned cocoanut or almonds. The tops may be decorated in various flavors and colors with butter cream, using a small star tube; candied fruits and half walnuts or pecans, or split almonds, may be placed on the iced tops. A little experience and skill will produce quite a wide variety of these large and small fancy cakes. Chocolate Mocha Cake 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces butter, 1 pint eggs, x /% pint yolks, 1 pint strong black coffee, 2% pounds cake flour, y of white mixture in bowl, cover with another thin layer of white, again chocolate and white in alternating colors, now fill mixture carefully in paper-lined bread tins, or in small square wood-lined tins or round angel cake tins, paper lined. Ice in white with chocolate stripes or chocolate with white stripes, marble fashion. To produce a tri-colored marble cake a part of the white mixture may be colored a delicate pink, alternating with white and chocolate. Marble icing is very simply done; the cake is first iced in white or chocolate and finished with chocolate, white or pink stripes. The icing and striping must be done quickly, while the icing is soft, so the stripes and body run smooth together. Fill some of the icing used for stripes in a paper cornet and cut off the point, then ice the cake with the opposite colored icing. For round cakes draw circular or spiral lines over the iced cake with opposite color, for square cakes draw straight lines with the icing an even distance apart. Then draw the back of a knife in right angles across the lines, first from one side in even distance apart ; then draw the knife between these lines from the opposite side. This produces the effects given in the illustration. ASSORTED NUT CAKES Quite a variety of nut cakes may be made from white or yellow mixtures given. The sizes must be arranged as re- 81 CAKES FOR BAKERS ^ »* **w* HOW TO DO MARBLE ICING 82 CAKES FOR BAKERS quired. Various sizes of round tins with center tube, small loaf cake tins, may be used for individual cakes sold by the piece; long bread tins may be used for cakes sold by the cut or slice, or the cakes may be baked in wood-framed tins and baked in slabs, or two slabs may be put together and sold by the cut. Black Walnut Cakes, English Walnut Cakes 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 10 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2%, pounds cake flour, 3 ounces ground walnuts, 2 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace and vanilla. Mix as usual, bake in wood-lined and papered pans. A size of pan 121/2x20x114 inches, lined with i/^-inch wood frame, makes 2^ cakes; the mixture of 8 pounds of sugar produces 10 slabs of this size; two slabs put together with marshmallow, iced with vanilla^ with nuts sprinkled on top, makes 10 cuts 5%x3% inches. Pistachio Nut Cake Use white Florence cake mixture, 'flavor orange, add 2 ounces of blanched and cut pistachios for one-fourth of mix- ture; bake in greased and dusted angel cake tins. Ice a deli- cate green, flavor with pistachio. Brazilian Nut Cake Use any good white or yellow mixture, add 1 ounce finely cut Brazil nuts to each pound of mixture; bake in papered square or oval tins, or use tins with a center tube. Ice with rose flavored pink icing, mixed with a few shredded nuts. Pecan Nut Cake, Walnut Cake Bake in sheets or in frames like black walnut cake, put together with almond cream filling or soft almond paste filling. Cut with sharp knife in large squares or diamonds. The top may be frosted with white vanilla or fondant, decorated with perfect halves, the sides finished with fine cut nut meats, or nuts may be used for a border and the center finished with the nuts by which the cake is known, such as pecan, walnut, filbert, etc. Sultanas, finely cut oranges or citron peel, may be added with the nut meats; this forms one other pleasing variety. CAKES FOR BAKERS The nut cakes may be made up in Neapolitan fashion, using chocolate, pink and white layers, adding nut meats to fillings and icings. The cake may also be baked in sheets, three sheets put together iced only on top and sprinkled with chopped nuts, then cut in squares. The small individual cakes may be finished in chocolate, caramel, vanilla or coffee; all these flavors go nicely with nut cake. Some of these cakes are known as "Victoria, Princess, Duchess or Florence Nut Cakes. Golden Rod Cakes No. 1-^Cream \y 2 pounds sugar light with iy 2 pounds shortening. Beat iy 2 pints yolks with 1 pound sugar, add grated rind of orange. Add eggs to sugar and butter cream, mix lightly, then add 1 quart milk, and lastly 3y 2 pounds cake flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Fill in greased and dusted t goIdenrod t ins,and bake in medium heat. Mixture makes 20 cakes, bse the grated rind of orange, half orange juice, half water, and mix with icing sugar to make soft, trans- parent icing. No. 2 — \y 2 pounds butter and lard, iy 2 pounds sugar, 14 eggs, 1 pint milk, Zy 2 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking powder. Will make 1 dozen cakes. Lunch Cup Cakes 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 1 quart milk, 4i/ 2 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda, 12 ounces seedless raisins. Mixture makes 11 to 12 dozen large cups. Grease molds rather heavily to ma ke a flat top. Bake in 325 to iko degrees b ahr. Frost with orange icing. Orange Cup Cake — Small Individual Cakes 21/2 pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds shortening, salt, % p i n t yolks, 11/2 pints milk, 3y 2 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking powder, the grated rind of orange. Mix as usual, bake in cups or in paper lined round or oval tins, small angel cake tins, etc. Vanilla Cup Cakes No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 10 eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. Mix makes 12 dozen. 84 CAKES FOR BAKERS No. 2 — 11/2 pounds sugar, y% pound lard, 4 eggs, 2i/ 2 pounds flour, li/^ pints milk, 2 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. Mix makes 8 dozen cups. Both mixtures may be made in small loaf cakes or layer cakes. Chocolate Cup Cakes 2 pounds sugar, 1/2 pound shortening, 10 eggs, l!/2 pints milk, 4 ounces powdered cocoa or melted chocolate, vanilla or spice flavor, 2V2 pounds cake flour, li/£ ounces baking powder. Makes about 9 dozen cup cakes. Jellied Cup Cakes, Spiced Cups 1 pound sugar, 1 pound compound, 1 pound jelly, creamed together; add l 1 /^ pints eggs in small portions, add 1 ounce cinnamon, iy% pints molasses, IV2 pints milk, 3% pounds cake flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Bake in fairly good heat in well-greased cup cake forms. Vanilla icing. Spice Cup Cake 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, salt, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart water, 1 ounce soda dissolved in water, 1 ounce mixed spices, 4 pounds cake flour. Mix like gingerbread and bake in cups. Spice Cup Cakes with Crumbs l 1 /^ pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 2 quarts molasses, 2 quarts water, 3 po unds cake crumbs, I V2 ounces soda, 3 ounces cream of tartar, 11/2 ounces cloves, 11/2 ounces cinnamon, 6!/2 pounds c ake flour. Soak crumbs in water and dissolve soda. Rub sugar, lard arid spices together, add eggs and molasses, then water with crumbs and soda, then add flour and mix smooth. Drop in well greased tins. Bake in 350 to 375 degrees. Mixture makes 21 dozen. For spiced fruit cup cakes 1 pound or more of ground, rais- ins may be added. Chocolate or cocoa adds to flavor. Drop Cakes No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 14. ounce salt, 1 pint eggs, 1 quart milk, 3 pounds cake flour sifted with 2V2 ounces baking powder. No. 2 — 4 pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds compound, salt, 1 pint 85 CAKES FOR BAKERS eggs, 1 quart milk, 114 ounces ammonia, y^ ounce soda dis- solved in milk, 4 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread flour. Mix like cup cake and drop on well greased and flour dusted pans ; bake in good oven. Sponge Drop Cake 1 pound sugar, li/ 2 pounds cake flour, 1*4 ounces baking powder, sifted together; put in bowl and make a bay, add 5 eggs, % pint of milk and 2 ounces melted butter, vanilla flavor. Mix well together and dress with bag and plain tube on greased and dusted pans, and bake in medium heat. When cool ice bottom of drops in white, pink or in chocolate. A Warm marshmallow filling may be used, colored as desired, and shredded cocoanut sprinkled on icing while soft. GINGERBREADS, MOLASSES CAKES Good grades of molasses are rich in sugar. When using molasses in the bakery, as a rule it is dipped out from the top of the barrel, because it is too slow work to draw it from the faucet. When standing in the barrel, the sugar is apt to go to the bottom, making this part richer in sugar than the top part of the syrup. The richer part of the syrup should be reduced, or less sugar should be used if the formula contains other sugar, otherwise the formula becomes unbalanced, and the e xcess of sugar causes the cakes to rise and fall in the oygBaJaiLkec ^ mola sses cak e re- jtmres^J^eEuTTaTonFln jnoderate heat, and inT^kinglEe' cakes must nofBTjarred or movecTuntllletr'Soft flours should be used, and ginger breadlTcan be made very'pbpular by Using gooTgrades of sugar and butter and good neutral fats instead, of strong lard. ~~ ■—"""* The flavor of gjnger. alone is not very popular, and some grades leave. a very jjitter taste. A s pice mixture containing 5 parts ginger, 5 parts cinnamon, 5 parts allspice, 3 parts cloves, 2 parts mace or nutmeg, is a good one to use; 2_paxts_. v of coriander or cardamom may be added if this flavor is desired. The spices should be mixed well andka pton femH Bakjngjsoda (carbonate of soda) is used, and is" besT*dis-^ solved in milk_Qr_jvater : _A slight addition of salt is desirable with neutral fats. 86 CAKES FOR BAKERS Large slabs are best baked in frames. It helps to make the cakes bake up evenly. Ovens which hold strong bottom heat are apt to burn the cakes on the bottom, which should be weT protected with strong paper. In storing the baked cakes, as they are apt to soften they sh buldj igjj3g_p ned tog ether with- out double papers between to prevent loss by having thenr* stick together] " Southern Gingerbread No. 1 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 1 quart molasses, *4 ounce salt, 8 -eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 ounce soda, 3^ pounds soft flour, % ounce mixed spice or Vk ounce allspice, i/4 ounce ginger. No. 2 — % pound brown sugar, % pound shortening, salt, 1V& ounces mixed spice, 4 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart milk, 1 ounce soda, 4 pounds cake flour. Rub sugar, shortening, soda and spices together, add mo- lasses and mix well, add milk and flour and mix smooth. Mixture will fill pan 18x25 inches, set in wood frame 3 inches high, pan and frame greased and paper-lined. Eggless Gingerbread No. 1 — % pound sugar, % pound shortening, salt, l 1 /^ quarts molasses, l 1 /^ quarts water or milk, 2 ounces soda, 1 to lYz ounces mixed spices, 5 pounds cake flour. This mixture may also be baked in cup cake forms and a few currants or sultanas may be added or sprinkled on top. Ice or leave plain. Eggless Gingerbread with Crumbs No. 2 — 2 pounds brown sugar, 11/2 pounds compound, 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce ginger, 114 ounces mixed spice, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart or more milk, 3 ounces soda, 2 pounds cake crumbs, 6 pounds cake flour. Soak crumbs in milk. Rub shortening, sugar, soda and spices together, add molasses, then milk with crumbs, and lastly the flour. This makes a rather firm mixture, which may be put on flour-dusted table, scaled in papered pound loaf tins, flattened and washed with egg or with syrup. Bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. Frost or leave plain. 87 CAKES FOR BAKERS Loaf Gingerbread 2*4 quarts molasses, mixed with 6 eggs; add 1*4 pounds melted shortening; take IV2 quarts of water, add 2*4 ounces soda, % ounce salt, then add 6 pounds soft flour mixed with 1 ounce ginger, % ounce mixed spices. Bake in 1 pound bread tins, greased and paper-lined. Makes 16 loaves. High Grade Ginger Cakes — Ginger Pound Cake 3% pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound compound, 3% pints eggs, 1 pint milk, 3 pounds of preserved ginger cut in chips, !/2 ounce ginger, 14 ounce mace, IV2 ounces cream of tartar, % ounce soda, 5*4 pounds cake flour. Cream sugar, spices, butter and eggs, add milk with soda, then flour sifted with cream of tartar; when partly mixed add the ginger, finely cut ; then scale out in small tins and bake in pound cake heat. . Raisin Gingerbread l 1 /^ pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart molasses, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spices, 1 ounce soda, 1/2 pint milk, 3 pounds sultana raisins, 4 pounds cake flour. Bake in small pound loaf tins lined with paper. Molasses Fruit Loaf 3 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds lard, 15 eggs, 3 quarts mo- lasses, 3 pints water, 1 ounce salt, 6 ounces soda, 3 ounces mixed spice, 2^ pounds mixed fruit, raisins, citron, lemon and orange peel, finely cut; !/2 pound cocoanut or nutmeats may be added; 12 pounds cake flour. Fruit and eggs may be re- duced for a low-priced cake, more water or milk used if flour is strong. Mixture may be used for layer cake, slab cake, small loaf cake or cup cakes, in fact any size cakes may be made. A spiced fruit layer cake, iced with chocolate and made up with white strips, marble fashion, is a good seller. -. -, ^ Spiced Molasses Cup Cake with Crumbs 21/2 pounds cake crumbs, 2 pounds flour, 1 quart molasses, 1^4 quarts milk or water, li/ 2 ounces cloves and cinnamon, 2 ounces baking soda dissolved in water. Soak crumbs in water, 88 CAKES FOR BAKERS mix with molasses, spices and flour. Fill in well greased cups and bake in medium heat. Ice cup cakes with chocolate. Crumb Layer Cakes No. 1 — % pound sugar, i/ 2 pound lard, 1 ounce mixed spices, % ounce soda, 8 eggs, 12 ounces mixed fruit chopped fine, 2 pounds cake crumbs, lVa pounds cake flour, sufficient milk to mix. Bake in greased and papered layer tins. Put layers together with chocolate or cream fillings or marsh- mallow. Ice with chocolate or caramel, and sprinkle with a few chopped nuts. No. 2 — 1/2 pound brown sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 2 quarts milk, zy% pounds cake crumbs, 5 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces mixed spices, 1 ounce salt, 2 pounds chopped raisins. Bake in layers or large sheets, put together with jellies or marshmallow, ice and cut in bars or in squares. This cake improves when a day old. Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake e^^^' Line round or square cake tins with a plain short paste, and fill about 1 inch deep with this filling: 4 pounds crumbs, 1 pound ground almonds or other nutmeats, 1 pound seeded raisins, y% pound chopped citron. Cream 11/2 pounds sugar and 1/2 pound shortening together, add l-i/ 2 pints eggs, add fruit and crumbs and a little milk. Bake like cake. When cold ice with vanilla water icing. Crumb Tart Cake Fillings No. 1 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound shortening, 1 pound eggs, 1 pound cake crumbs, 2 ounces ground almonds, lemon and almond flavor ; a little milk to mix. No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint eggs, 11/2 pounds crumbs, % pint milk; lemon or mace flavor. Choco- late or nutmeats may be used. Bake in sheets in pan lined with tart paste or in small tart forms. By using various icings and flavors a variety of fancy crumb cakes' may be made. Molasses Crumb Cake-j-Washington Cake Soak 5 pounds crumbs in 5 quarts water, add 4 ounces soda, 1 quart molasses, y% pound oil or melted lard, l/ 2 ounce 89 CAKES FOR BAKERS salt, l!/2 ounces mixed spices, 3 pounds mixed fruit ground fine; then add 7 pounds cake flour and mix well. Bake in large slabs, or in pans lined with a thin rolled pie crust. Ice and cut in squares. Chop Suey Cake No. 1 — 5 pounds cake crumbs, 5*4 pounds flour, iy 2 quarts molasses, 3 quarts water, 4 ounces soda, y% pound chopped nutmeats, 1 pound mince meat, 1 pound brown sugar, % pound shortening. Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes No. 2 — li/k pounds brown sugar, % pound lard, 1 quart molasses, 10 eggs, 1 ounce mixed spice, 3 pounds cake crumbs soaked in 5 pints water, 2^ ounces soda dissolved in 1 pint of water, 4 pounds cake flour, 1 pound or less of chopped nut- meats, 1 pound seedless raisins. Mix like other crumb cake, bake in large pans greased and dusted, or lined with tart or pie paste, or in muffin cups. Mixture No. 2 is also baked in oval rings, which should be well greased and dusted with flour, set on a well greased pan. Use a size of oval ring 31/2 inches long and iy 2 inches wide* 1 inch high. Mixture makes thirteen dozen cakes. Crumb Cake, Fruit or Cup Cake % pound cake, crumbs, % pound compound, 1*4 quarts molasses, 1 quart water, 2 eggs (may be omitted), 1 ounce soda, 1 pound small raisins or currants, 3y 2 pounds flour, cin- namon, vanilla or lemon and a little vinegar. This may be baked in sheets. For fruit and cup cake add a little more flour. WINE CAKE MIXTURES No. 1—6 pounds sugar, 3i/ 2 pounds shortening, 2 quarts eggs, salt, 2 quarts milk, 9i/ 2 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace, lemon or vanilla. No. 2—4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 1 ounce salt, 1 quart eggs, 2 quarts milk, 6i/ 2 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces baking powder. No. 3—5 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 pounds shortening, salt, 3 pints 90 CAKES FOR BAKERS eggs, 2 quarts milk, 8 pounds cake flour, 4 ounces baking powder. No. 4 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 pints milk, 5 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder. Wine cake mixtures may be used for larger block cake and mixed by either method of mixing. They are also made in small loaf tins, baked in papered pound-loaf tins. Layer Cakes No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, 1*4 pounds butter and compound, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 3 ounces baking powder. No. 2 — 10 pounds sugar, half powdered, half granulated, 4 pounds compound, IV2 ounces salt, 1 pint yolks, 2 quarts whole eggs, 3 quarts milk, vanilla flavor, 3 pounds bread flour, 8 pounds cake flour, 10 ounces baking powder (made from cream powder and soda) . Mix like other cakes, beat up light in the final mixing. Mix makes 63 9-ounce layers or 21 3-layer cakes. Yellow Slab Cake No. 3 — Seven and one-half pounds sugar, 3 pounds shorten- ing, \y% ounces salt, 2 quarts mixed eggs, 2*4 quarts milk, 2 pounds bread flour, 6 pounds cake flour, 7*4 ounces baking powder. Makes six pans 19x25x1. By adding 8 ounces melted chocolate to one-third of mixture, and placing three sheets together, chocolate layer in center, mixture may be used for Neapolitan blocks. Jelly, cream, marshmallow or other combinations may be used for filling. Frost top plain white, or sprinkle with a few nuts or cocoanut; cut each block in 18 cuts. Low Priced Yellow Layer Cakes No. 1 — Seven pounds sugar, l 1 /^ pounds shortening, 1 quart eggs, 2 quarts milk, 8V2 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces baking powder. Sponge Layer Cake, Sponge Roll No. 2 — Rub 4 pounds sifted light brown • sugar with 1 quart eggs and beat well, then add 3 pints of milk, 6V2 pounds cake flour sifted with 6 ounces baking powder. Bake in well- n CAKES FOR BAKERS greased papered tins dusted with flour. This mixture may also be used for a plain jelly roll, rolled while hot. Formula for Loaf Cake, Wine Cake, Layer Cake, Cup Caks Three pounds sugar, V/ 2 pounds butter and lard, 11/2 ounces salt, 11/2 Pints (15) eggs, 1 quart milk, 41/2 pounds cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder, flavoring mace or vanilla. Mix as usual. To bake several kinds of cake from same mixture, mix and put large cake in oven first with damper open, next the layers, then drop out the cup cakes, put in the oven and shut dampers. With an oven heat of 350 to 400 degrees and a little practice the variety of cakes may be baked in the same baking heat by using the damper and oven door for regulating. Close watching and practice make for success. STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE Shortcakes may be made in large sheets, using the ordi- nary size baking pans, and two thin sheets, when baked, may be put together with a thin layer of meringue or marshmallow covered with berries. The bottom layer is best made a little thicker, so the juice of the fruit does not soak quite through. Sometimes another layer of berries is put on the top sheet and covered with meringue and cut in squares or portions, where the price can be obtained; but the top is usually left plain or covered with a little sugar or meringue, and a good size berry is put in the center of each portion for decoration. The various sizes of layer cake tins are also used. The layers may be baked thick and split in halves, or two thin layers may be put together with berries between them. Two or three layers are thus put together, and prices are charged accordingly. The cakes may be sold by the piece or slice. If berries are high priced, more meringue or marshmallow and less berries may be used ; large berries are best cut in halves. Some bakers make a single sheet, rather thick, cover this with a thin layer of meringue, berries on top of meringue, and put a lattice of meringue over the berries, or put a full .layer of meringue on top of berries. Dust with sugar, set pan on thick board, and let. brown in the oven. If divided in portions or cuts a ring of meringue may be placed in the 92 CAKES FOR BAKERS center of each portion, and after baking a good-looking berry- is placed in this ring for decoration. These cakes may be made from any plain sponge or sheet cake mixture. Other shortcakes are made similar to a rich tea-biscuit mixture, which is very popular. Progressive bakers use other fresh fruits, ripe peaches, raspberries, blackberries, also preserved sliced peaches, for special cakes. Meringues may be made by covering a baked sheet of cakes with jelly or preserves, cover this with a thin layer of pastry cream and top off with a lattice or a full layer of meringue which may be cut in portions in similar fashion suggested for strawberry shortcakes. This makes a fine selling line of cakes for the bakery lunchroom. Shortcake — Biscuit Mixture No. 1 — Rub y% pound butter,, 3 pounds sugar and 1/2 pint eggs together, add 1 quart milk, and 4 pounds cake flour sifted' with 4 ounces baking powder. Make up in layers or sheets' as desired. No. 2 — Two and one-fourth pounds sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 12 eggs, a good pint of milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 1 ounce baking powder. Bake in layers or sheets and finish as directed. Lincoln or Washington Crumb Cakes or Pie Take 5 pounds crumbs, half roll, half cake crumbs, soak in 4 quarts water and break up good; add 1 pint molasses, 5 pounds seeded raisins, and 3 to 4 ounces mixed spices. Let this soak over night. Roll out a bottom from pie crust and put in cake pan with high rims, 18x25x2. Fill in the mix- ture and cover with a layer of top crust. Prick with fork, egg wash and bake in medium oven for 45 to 50 minutes. Cut in squares when cold. Low-Priced Cakes for Large Institutions Twenty-five pounds sugar, 10 pounds lard, 1 gallon con- densed milk, 3V2 gallons water (or 4i/ 2 gallons sweet milk), 48 pounds flour, 3 pounds baking powder, 2 pounds jelly. The jelly is added to keep cakes moist. Mix may be used for sheet cake or cup cakes. 93 CAKES FOR BAKERS Low-Priced Jelly Roll, Bowl Mixture Four pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs or yolks, 2 quarts milk, 4 to 6 ounces melted lard, 6 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking powder. Flavor as desired. Mix makes four thick rolls. Bake in not too hot oven. Roll while hot. Low-Priced Fruit Cake Two quarts water, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 pound shorten- ing, 21/2 pounds raisins, 4 pounds bread flour, 1/2 pint molasses, cinnamon, ginger, allspice. Cook water, shortening and raisins, let cool, then add flour, spices and molasses. Bake in small single bread pans in medium oven. Makes 20 small cakes. 94 VI. MAKING PASTES The making of a perfect puff paste is an art which may only be learned by close observation and constant practice. The material s should be cold a nd the paste should be worked up in a cool place. T he butter o r oth~er~fats used shouTcTbe tough a nd fr ee from salt. Very s alty _b utter should be rubbed in c old water to r emove the salt and the water should be kneadelTlmt. , Dough and butter should be of the same cons istency. I f a softer variety of butter is used, the dough should be in harmony with the butter. The flour should be a good first patent spring or hard winter wheat flour or a blend of one-third cake n our,"~two-thirds bread flour. A strong"" flour adds to the keeping qualities, but it" too strong a blend of soft and hard flour is preferable. The addition of one .ess for each pound of flour ad ds to the lifting power, and by adding a little cre am of tartar, or vinegar , the gluten becomes more elastic, which is said to improve the paste. Salt in the butter retards, pr events the puff p aste from rising high in b aking, but a little salt added to "^oughT^ especially when using a neutral fat, ad ds to the flavor. A special pa stry butterine is m ade by different firm s which is ideal for making putt past e, but as this product lacks th e flavor of butte r, some butter should be used to supply the "Tack." In places where large quantities of pastry are made it is the practice to mix butter and pastry butterin e together in various proportions Jn the cake machine or dough mixer and use this blend in the making of pufFpaste, pie paste and Swedish or Danish pastries "as required! For "the high-grade puff paste , it is usual to take one pound of butte r for each pound of flou r. But it has been found that less butter pn> duces a less frail structure, which is not so easily broken. Fourteen ounces of butter, or even less when using butterine only (which is richer in fat) , makes a slightly less rich paste, but the rolling in of the butter is more easily accomplished and the same lightness is produced. 95 CAKES FOR BAKERS PUFF PASTES No. 1 — 4 pounds flour, 3^ pounds butter, 2 to 4 eggs, y% ounce cr eam of tartar o r the juice of o ne lemon, a scant quart of iced water. " * No. 2 — 4 pounds flour, 1/2 pound butter, 2% pounds pastry butterine, a little vinega r, a scant quart of cold water. No. 3 — 4 poun3s nour/ 3 pounds pastry butterine, !/2 ounce cr eam o f tartar, 1 scant quart of water. The method of working is practically the same for the three formulas given. Rub 8 ounces of the fat in the flour and mix into a smooth dough, slightly tighter than the butter, because the dough will soften by laying. Work it smooth and form in a square, cover with a cloth and l et the dough los e its spring for half an h our or more in a cool pla ce. To begin the rolling in of the butter, dust the table and dough with flour and roll dough into a long square, three times as long as wide an d about one-half inch thick. Place the butter evenly over two-thirds of the dough, then fold the bare part of dough over half of the butter , then the b utter part ove r on top 11 the dough. This forms a square of three layers of dough with two layers of butter between. Press down the sides of the dough to inclose the butter on all sides, and begin rolling. Lift the who le piece aroun d lengthwise, dust a gain with flo ur, and roll out carefully wi thout too mu c h pressu re — to an oblong abou t one-four th inch th ick; brush off any sur- plus of flour and fold in three. Let dough rest and keep dough covered between rollings to prevent crusting. Give two more rollings and foldings in three, give a rest, and then two more turns. This finishes the paste. F ive tu rns or fold- ings are u_sually_ J giv_eii _for butterin e, but practice together with observation will determine if one more turn or only a folding in two is required to finish the paste. As a rule, if the butter runs out in baking one more half turn may be given. But if the paste bakes out too tight or heavy, like scrap paste, it has been overworked and should have had one turn less. Running out of butter in baking may also be caused by oily butter breaking through the paste in rolling or the paste getting too warm between the turns, which softens the butter. Another trouble is caused by the butter getting 96 CAKES FOR BAKERS too hard if the paste stands too long on ice befo re-ihe rollings are finished. The hard butter will break th rough the s ofter dough. After the rollings are finished t he paste is benefited "byst anding on the ice, a nd is better to cut out. If noTquite" certain that the paste has been rolled sufficiently, a small piece of the rolled-in paste may be bake d_to test it. " '" The rests between the rollings are given to prevent the paste from shrinking. If the rolling and folding were con- tinued without intermissions the dough would become tougher than the butter and shrink in baking. For the same reason, when the pastries are cut out and set on- the pans, a little time must be given on the pan to recover from the effects of the rolling. This assists and helps to make the goods bake r up without jihrinking. P astries to rise high_ and evenly shoTild have" sEarp-cut edges ; dull knives or c utters - push the layers of paste into each other and pre vent even r ising. When cutting out ..patties or tarts it is best to turn tKem" upsi de do wn on the wet pans. This moderates the effects of the pressure. In washing pastries with egg, care must be exercised so the wash~doeiTnot run down on^he cut sides because this would prevent the even rising. All these little details must be obse rved in the making of puff paste goods. It may happen that'if is necessary to use a soft grade of .butter, which is difficult to roll in. About 4 ounces of flour mayTTe worked into the soft butter to tou ghen i t, and 2 ounces of the mixed" butter may be rubbed in the % pound of flour, and the pound of mixed butter rolled in as usual. Quickly Made Puff Paste Chop from % to 1 pound hard butter into 1 pound cold flour, to form small lumps; then sprinkle cold water over, barely enough to mix, shake it up without working, press together and put on flour-dusted slab or table. Pass rolling pin over and fold into a square. Then roll out and fold in three, the same as regular puff paste, giving five turns. The same mixture is made by adding 1 ounce baking powder, or 1/2 o unce crea m of tartar or cre am powd er, and ^4 ounceTsoga, sifting it in t he flour, orttuTSting it in with some flour between the rollings. 97 CAKES FOR BAKERS To Use the Trimmings of Puff Paste T rimmi ngs are rolled together and may be used for goods which do noT require to rise high, such as linings for tarts, for bottoms or slices, etc., but thex_max_bemade into good~~ paste and r econstruc ted by rolling the paste~mto one large / square and rolling in about 4 ounces butter, divided into small bits, for each pound of scraps. Give only a couple of foldings. I From two to three times is sufficient. It should be kept in mind that _p_uff paste isatits best when freshly made. If a dough is aday or two old it loses " lifting power and does not rise so high in baking. If more puff -paste is ma de at one time t han c anj be used the samedayT - it is better to divide the paste in two parts, and~ n*oT~Hnish the l eft ove r part entir ely, giving the last t/wo or three fold- ings the next morning before using. This keeps Ihe layers of butter and dough separated and if put in a cool place will keep in good condition. Mei- ers \ s it; Baking of Puff Pastry The baking heat varies. Very s mall goods require a quicker he at than larger pieces, and a good solid bread heat, ' even but not flashy, is best for the average goods. If the heat is too strong the crust is formed too quickly, not g iving "sufficient time for t he paste to rise. 'This is e specially so in the baking of ^atty^sheUs^ The large patties, known as vol- au-vents, requirev ery car eful b aking. Cream slic es or cream" r olls req uire to be baked crisp, and must' be baked in a slower Tieat; too quick baking would leave a layer of only half-baked" paste in the center, which is not desirable. THE MAKING OF PIE DOUGHS In the making of pie crusts the same rules hold good as in making puff paste. Have the flour, s hortening and water cold, and mix and work up the paste in a cool place . Very— .strong flours , used for bread making, are not a dapted for a good pie dough. Strong flours require more shortening and • make a tough eating crust. Use a good soft wi nter w heat patent flour, if flour is too soft and heavy a little breadHour r .may be added. For shortening, a good firm leaf lard or other CAKES FOR BAKERS firm shortening p roduces the best crust. A l ittle butter_ added gives flavor,' but is very little used in pie doughs. As lard and other shortenings contain no salt, s ome salt must be added to bring out the flavor and make a tasty crust. The salt may be sifted into the flour or ad ded to th e water us ed for mixing. It is well to ascertain "the proper quantity of water required for mixing. This prevents- overmixing, and may be easily found by close observation. This is the best method of obtaining uniform pie crust. Much depends en skill in mixing. Two kinds of crust , top and bottom _crust, of different richness, are used. Bottom crust is made slightly softer and less rich ; too rich a bottom crust is ant to become sog gy in baking. For opjm pies, f or which the bottom is ~Tbaked before the rilling is put in, such as lemon pies or c ream pies, the c rust i s^made sli ghtly richer than tor "fruit pie bot- toms. ' — The Mixing of Pie Crusts Have lard cold and firm, add to the sifted flour and break the lard in small bits, then flatten the pieces of fat with the flour between the hands in thin leaves. Do not rub mu ch, rather squeeze or press, and sh ake the fat and flour toge ther, then a dd the water and rather s hake the in gredients to gether, so flour, water and shortening will hold together. Then t hrow on flour-dusted table, p ress flat with the hand s, and foloLgides to f orrrTa square^ coyer an d let rest in ice box ove r nighty or until it hardens. Pieces o f the proper size to make one cover should be cut or broke n~5ff. to make as little scrap as possible. Bottom crusts are usually made a little softer, but should not be over-mixed and toughened. Large quantities, of pie dough are best mixed in dough mixer, but o vermixing should be avoided, and it is better to divide large mixtures in several batches~if mixing in machine. Pie Paste — Top Crust No. 1 — 5 pounds flour, 3 pounds lard, y% pound butter, 1 ounce salt, 1 quart water. No. 2 — 5 pounds flour, 2 pounds lard, 1 pound pastry but- terine, 2 ounces salt, 1 quart water. 99 CAKES FOR BAKERS No. 3 — 5 pounds flour, 2% pounds pastry butterine or compound, 3 ounces salt, a good quart water. Pie Paste — Bottom Crust 5 pounds flour, from 2 to 21/2 pounds lard or compound, 2V& ounces salt; about 1^4 quarts water is used, according to quality desired. Custard Pie Bottom Three pounds flour, 1 pound shortening, 1 ounce sugar, a little salt. Rub shortening, salt and sugar into the flour, then mix with cold milk or water into a not too soft paste. A couple of yolks may be added for tart paste or when the rim is pinched up for decoration. This crust may also be used for baked bottoms. To obtain a nicely baked bottom f or soft pies, roll bottom out slightly thickexJthan for fruit pies, trim the sides a nd let ^jH f nr. half an hour before baking . This prevents shrink- ing. Dust with a little flour and pJajgTaj i pmpt.y pi e tin with clean bottom o n top of the paste. P ut the bottoms in the oven and bake. When the paste which shows between the two tins_begiag_ to color, the top tin may be removed an d the baking finished. Pastes for Cream Puffs, Etc. Qr£am.jjuf£s-are made according to different standards of quality, but the most impo rtant part is the preparing of the paste, the p roper scalding. In the cooking of the paste, put the water, hot water if handy, with the shortening on the fire. See that the fat is melted and let come to a good b oil. T^enjfejn_the_ sif tedflourjvith the spatula or a strong egg- .Jbeater. Put the paste in mixing bowl or machine and w(j£k_ in the eggs, hy jJegrees, beating the mixture well between each addition. It is best to stir mixtu re a l ittle to remove TKefextreme "heat so as not to cook the eggs, b ut t he paste - must b e hot wh ile working in the eggs^ Stirjn the first part of eggs with s patula o r beater and when cool' enough finish by hand. More or less eggs are required to bring the mix^ ture to the proper consistency. A too s oftjnixtur e causes very th in bottom sand makes a rather fraiTpuff! Too firm~a~' 100 CAKES FOR BAKERS mixture makes them small. Some bakers drop out the puffs by hand, by squeezing the mixture out over the thumb and forefinger, and cutting off with the forefinger of the other hand ; others use the bag and tube. The pans should be very lightly greased and dusted with flour. W ashi ng the tops of cream puffs with egg wash before baking gives a pretty crack and color, but they "may be baked without washing. Am monia is used in nuffs to pr oduce a better c rack. An excess of ammonia produces the contrary effect. (jpoi Tpuff s can be made wi thout it , but a little ammonia is recommended. The mixing a nd panning of the puffs should be done quickly, in as short a time as possible, to get the puffs in the oven_ wh ile the mixture is still warm , because when the puffs cool — and depending on the humidity of atmosphere — a thin crust forms, preventing proper expansion in baking. Eclairs are often made and let stand in the shop for a while so a thin crust forms; this produces a smooth top. The baking requires a good hea t, but the oven should no t be too hot or flashy : the flash heat will cause caps. A good but steady heat should be used and the oven door left open unt il the p uffs are up ; if too hot the damper may be drawn. If the oven is too cool a small puff results. The for- mulas used for puffs may also be u sed for .eclairs , and the ammoniale ft out, to secure a smooth top, because the eclairs lire iced", while the puffs are sold with a litt le powdered s ugar sifted over. Cream Puffs No. 1 — 1% pounds bread flour, 1 pound lard, 1 quart water, .about 24 eggs, 14 ounce ammonia. Mix as directed, add a little milk if required, add the finely powdered ammonia last, and mix well. Leave out the ammonia for eclairs. If both puffs and eclairs are made from the same mixture, finish mixture and set up the" eclairs with bag and plain tube on very lightly greased pans, not dusted with flour. For the puffs add the ammonia, and drop puffs on dusted pans. Mix- ture makes 8 dozen large puffs, or 9 to 9^ dozen eclairs. No. 2 — 1 quart water, 1 pound lard, a pinch of salt, 1V& pounds flour— half spring, half winter — pint of milk, 1 quart eggs. Add the milk to the hot flour paste in kettle; after 101 CAKES FOR BAKERS cooking the paste, put mixture in bowl and work in the eggs ; beat smooth and drop out on dusted pans. No. 3 — 1 quart water, 1 pound shortening, 11/2 pounds strong flour, 16 eggs, !/2 ounce ammonia, milk to mix smooth. No. 4 — 1 pint milk, 1 pint water, 12 ounces butter and lard, 1 pound bread flour, 12 eggs to mix smooth. Boil milk and water with shortening, then add the flour. This makes a rather soft paste before the eggs are added, but gets slightly stiffer when the eggs are worked in. French Fried Cake, Cruller or Spritz Kuchen No. 1 — % pound butter or lard, 2 ounces sugar, IV2 pints water, 1*4 pounds bread flour, 15 eggs. St. Honore Tart Paste for Borders No. 2 — % pound shortening, 11/2 pints milk, 1 pound cake flour, about 1 pint eggs — half yolks, half whole eggs, to make a soft mixture which may be dressed up with bag and star tube so it holds its shape. The cruller paste, as well as the tart paste, is mixed the same as cream puff paste. MERINGUE PASTES Meringue enters often in the ordinary work and is used in many ways, for covering pies, making small fancy tarts, meringue shells, kisses, etc. Meringues are made very simply of beaten egg whites and sugar and are not difficult to make if care is used. All the utensil s must be entirely f ree from _gX£aae_or any kind of fa t,~ because a spot of grease is apt to spoil the whole mixture?" It is well to have a special beater and kettle for beating eggs or meringue, and care should be taken that the sugar is absolutely clean. The egg whites must be free from yolks. A medium grade of not too fine standard powdered sugar is considered best fo r the ordinary meringue. NoT"T=-Light Cold Meringue is used for covering pies and tarts and sugar is used in various proportions. Some bakers figure a n ounce of sugar for every egg w hite, others use from % pouncl to IV2 pounds sugar for each pint of egg whites, and these variations make a more or less strong meringue. ■ _. „____ . CAKES FOR BAKERS Standard Cold Meringue Paste No. 2 — 1 quart egg whites, 6 pounds powdered sugar or 2 pounds granulated sugar and 4 pounds powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Beat up the egg whites in machine or by hand, have the egg whites cold, the sugar dry and sifted. Beat slowly at the start and increase the speed. When the whites get firm, add a little sugar at a time and gradually beat in half of the sugar and cream of tartar. Add flavoring and draw in the other half of the sugar, using the hand or spatula. Avoid stirring and overmixing, which would soften the paste. If color is added this should be done before the balance of sugar is mixed in. This meringue is used for shells, Easter eggs, small pyramids and many other varieties. Hot Meringue Paste No. 3 — 1 quart egg whites, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds powdered . sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Put egg whites and granulated sugar in kettle, set in hot water bath, stir until it feels quite hot to the fingers, then put in machine and beat up on good speed until the mixture stands up well, add flavor and take off the machine, carefully draw in the powdered sugar. VThis meringue may be used for most all kinds of work, e xcept fancy kisses, in which case 3 pounds sugar should be beaten in and 3 pounds mixed in. Hot Meringue Paste No. 4 — Sift 21/2 pounds powdered sugar onto heavy paper and set on pan in the oven to get hot, then beat sugar and 1 pint egg whites in machine until it stands up well ; flavor to suit. Light Boiled Meringue Paste No. 5 — Boil 2^ pounds granulated sugar, 1 pint water, to 240 .degrees, beat light 1 pint egg whites, and by degrees beat in 1/2 pound powdered sugar, then add the boiled hot syrup in a thin stream, beating constantly, and beat until cool. 103 CAKES FOR BAKERS Heavy Boiled Meringue Paste No. 6 — 1 pint egg whites, 3*4 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pint water, V6 pound powdered sugar. Boil granulated sugar and water to 240 degrees. Beat egg whites stiff and add powdered sugar, and finish like No. 5. The hot meringue, also the boiled meringue, are also known as Italian or French meringues. Gum Paste, Tragacanth Paste, Pastillage Put 2 ounces gum tragacanth in l/£ pint cold water, cover and let stand in a warm place for about two days. When the gum has absorbed all the water, press it through a cloth or sieve. Mix with 1 pound icing sugar and work smooth. Put away in a jar and cover with a damp cloth. If the paste is to be used for lozenges, work in 2 pounds icing sugar with flavor and color to suit. For ornamental work, add starch in the same proportion as sugar. This makes a pliable, elastic paste, which can easily be molded in any shape or pressed in molds for figure work. It may be colored in any shade. A little bluing may be added to improve the white color. If the paste is too firm it may be softened by mixing starch and water to a soft paste and adding it, or some glucose may be worked in. Croquant Paste Mix 1 pound icing sugar, 2 pounds flour, and 2 ounces butter with sufficient egg whites into a smooth, workable paste. This paste may be used to make baskets and other ornaments which require a foundation. It keeps its shape well when properly baked. MACAROON PASTES Macaroons are today made from ready-made almond paste, which is more reliable and saves the labor of blanching and grinding the almonds. The old-fashioned way is to take 1 pound blanched almonds, rub or grind them in mortar with some egg whites, then add 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar and make into a workable paste with more egg whites. The pre pared almond paste c ontains sugar, and the rule is to take 1 pound of the ready-made paste, 1 pound coarse powdered sugar— or half granulated, half powdered sugar — and mix 104 CAKES FOR BAKERS with sufficient egg whites to a paste which can be dressed up with bag and tube. In the mixing, grease must be avoided. The paste is best mixed if cut in thin shavings, then working in the egg whites in small portions, then adding the sugar. For plain macaroons the paste should notTbe too soft; this causes macaroons to bake up hollow." Also, if t oo much sug ar is used, the bottom win break in w hen the cakes are removed from the paper. A temperature of 280 to 300 degrees i s abo ut right. Regulate the heat by opening the door, but not the" damper, when bak- ing t"h"e macaroons, if using thin pans, bett er use double pape r under the m acaroons, or bake them on double pansr especially if bottom heat is stronger than top heat. Thick, heavy pans are best for baking. Plain Macaroon Paste Take 21/2 pounds almond paste, 1 pint egg whites, 2V& pounds sugar — half granulated, half powdered sugar. Mix smooth with half of the egg whites, work in the sugar and add balance of egg whites and work in well. The mixture should be just right to stand without running flat. Use a plain %-inch tube and dress on paper about the size of a quarter of a dollar. When dropped out the little point in the center may be pressed down, by using a wet cloth, before baking. It is best to bake th e macaroons as so on as possible after they are set on the paper; if they cannot be baked at" once Jceep them out of drafts to prevent crusting. When bakea and cool, turn over on the table, wet the pape? with a brush, let lay a minute, then turn over and ' take off th e macaroons. It is the custom tn_ P3t,t-fa^ ojnacaroons together, and pile them in symmetrical order in pyramid tashion lor sale. Fancy Macaroon Paste One and one-half pounds almond paste, i/2 pint or more egg whites, 1 pound 10 ounces standard powdered sugar, 2 ounces flour. Flavor with grated rind of lemon or orange, or some powdered cinnamon. Work the paste smooth as given for plain macaroons, with egg whites, add sugar and flavor. The mixture should be soft enough so it can be dressed with bag and star tube in various shapes. The paste 105 CAKES FOR BAKERS may be used cold, but by warming the mixture it is softened and is e asier to use, a nd dries more quickly. This paste is used for decorative borders on large cakes and tarts, and it may be used for making large pyramids from scrolls baked of the same paste, by adding 4 ounces more flour, which produces a more solid cake. The fancy macaroons, also larger scrolls for decorative pieces, may be glaced with a gum wash which dries quickly. This is made as follows : Glazing for Macaroons Mix 1 pound finely crushed white gum arabic with 3 ounces sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and 1 pint of cold water; let stand for 36 hours. Stir and warm to dissolve, then strain and keep bottled in covered jar; apply with a brush. SHORT PASTES FOR LARGE AND SMALL TARTS Confectioners' Short Pastes No. 1 — 3 pounds soft flour, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound pow- dered sugar, 4 eggs. No. 2 — 3 pounds soft flour, 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 4 eggs, 14 pint milk. No. 3 — 3 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, 114 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, 14 ounce powdered ammonia, flavor of mace, lemon and almonds. No. 4 — 3 pounds flour, 1/2 pound compound, V2 pound sugar, 1 ounce baking powder, 3V2 gills water. Almond Short Paste No. 1 — 2 pounds soft flour, 114 pounds butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, % pound ground almonds or almond paste, 6 whole eggs, 4 yolks, grated rind of lemon ; flavor with vanilla, ground cinnamon or almond. Method : Work sugar and butter together in a cool place ; add eggs, almonds and flour, work together, and allow mixture to cool and stiffen. A pinch of powdered ammonia may be added to short paste if a lighter mixture is desired. No. 2—2i/ 2 pounds cake flour, i/ 2 pound butter, i/ 2 pound neutral fat, 1 pound sugar, y 2 pound almond paste, 2 eggs, y 3 ounce ammonia. Method : Rub almond paste smooth with eggs ; add sugar 106 CAKES FOR BAKERS and butter, rub together; add ammonia and flavor; then add flour and sufficient cold water to make a smooth paste. The other short pastes are best made by first rubbing the flour and shortening well together ; then make a bay in center, put in the sugar and eggs, add flavor, mix, and work in the flour. Marzipan Paste for Cake Covering Work together 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound icing sugar and sufficient egg white to make mixture of such consistency that it can be rolled out very thin. Flavor with orange or vanilla. Another method is to work in 1 pound of fondant. Marzipan Paste of Ground Almonds Take 1% pounds blanched sweet almonds, 4 ounces bitter almonds, and grind to a fine paste. Put this paste into a kettle on the fire with 1 pound powdered sugar, and stir until it is smooth and does not stick to the finger. This may be worked with more sugar into a smooth, pliable paste, flavored and colored to suit. It may be mixed with fondant in place of the sugar and molded into any shape. Tf past.p harrlpng it. mav be made pliable with a l ittle syrup or glucose. This paste may be used in many ways. Almond or Marzipan Paste for Decorative Use A firm paste may be nlade by softening 1 pound almond paste with 2 egg whites, 2 ounces glucose. Then work in sufficient powdered sugar to make it of the firmness required. The paste may be cut and shaped in any form, for making bars, wheels or forms of any kind used for window displays or cake tops. Small fruits may be modeled, the coloring mate- rial being mixed with the paste. For imitating fruits the r heeks are tinted with dry powder color, mixed with a little 'starch and applied with a wad of cotton. "" ~~~" ~ — " PATTY SHELLS AND TART CASES Patty shells are served with fillings of oysters or meats, and they may also be used for filling with creams and pre- serves, with the difference that the cases used for sweets 107 CAKES FOR BAKERS may be glazed with syrup, etc., while those used for meats should not be sweetened. The Single Case or Patty Roll the paste out to %-inch thickness and cut with round, square, oval, heart- or diamond-shaped cutter. The plain patty is made from 2% to 3i/ 2 inches in diameter. Set on wet pans, all ow to stand for half an hour, then cut the center with a 2-inch cutter, but onl£aSu£haSj^ftu u gh^aste 1 The top only, i s then carefully wa shed with a light egg wash, seeing the wash does not run down the sides, which would h inder t he paste from even rising in baking. Bake in medium heat. ~ A case cut out of 3/ 8 -incfi~paste"shouid rise to IV2 to I.34, inches high in baking. When baked and while warm, remove the center or to p piece*"Oaf ef Lilly," by running a knife around, and in deep cases a pa rt of the sof t ins ide is removed to leave room for the filling! The tops are "Kept to use as a cover for mea/T fillings "Wherfmaking shallow cases, where the top is not used, jj^ is simply pressed down and the case is ready" for anyTflling. Double Cases This case is made in two pieces. A thin bottom is cut out of Vg-inch paste or scrap paste set on wet pans and washed with water. From paste Vs mcn to 14 mcn thick a disk is cut out, of same diameter as the bottom, and the center is entirely cut out. , The ring is placed evenly on the washed bottom, carefully washed with egg on top only, and after being given a little time to rest they are baked the same as the single cases. If the tops are required they may be baked separately. Continental bakers use a sp ecial plain stamped tart tin which makes a very light and crisp case. The tins are about 2V6 inches in diameter and 1V£ inches deep. These tins are made with a wide turned-over rim or edge, and are lanl upside down on the baking pans. Disks are cut from y 8 -inch paste with plain or scalloped cutter about 3 inches in diameter, and pressed over the bottom and gently into the turned edge s being given some time to stand and recover before baking. Other ready-made cases may be baked in the different shaped fancy molds or tins, and the lightly greased tins lined out 108 CAKES FOR BAKERS with puff paste, short paste or tart paste. To have the case hold its shape the center is filled with rice or beans. Vv'hen baked the beans are shaked out, the case is brushed out, and is then ready for the filling. The beans or rice may be used over again many times. How to Use the Ready-Made Cases Having the cases ready for filling, many kinds of tarts may be made at short notice or to order. Fresh fruits in season, preserved fruits, cream fillings, or combinations of cream and fruits may be used, the fi nishing to uch put on with icing, m eringue, butter cream or whipped cream. These may be topped off with half~a~candied cherry, halves of nut meats or Fr ench fruit gla ces. In this manner an endless variety can be produced. Patty shells for meats and oysters should be high, so as to hold sufficient filling. But for sweet tart cases the rim or border should not be made too high, as it would hide the fillings of fruit or cream. Preserved fruits, made with more or less sugar and others even wifhTnftrany sugar, should be i mprove d by draining off the juice from the fruit through a fine sieve. The juice is b oiled downJ & a syrup by adding to each pint of juice from !/£ to 1 pound of sugar, according to sweetness, and about y% to 1 ounc e grssolved gelatine. The dr ained fruit i s covered with this syrup^and when i t cools a nd TaeginstotKicken is placed in the cases, and the syr up u sid to mask it carefully, so as not to hide the fruit. This musT'bT done at the right moment, whent he je lly thickens but has not set fully. Col oring may be addej[05J:ruit juice if r equir ed. Wnen using f resh fruit, berries, peaches or cherries, a part of the fruit may be crushecP and mad e into a syrup ; the other "f resh a nd fully ripe fruit may be placed in a dish and co vered with this jsyrup and handled in the same manner as the preserved fruit. Apricot, green gage, plum or gooseberry jam is much used for masking other fruits, also for filling. Ap£k^ellyjmd_currant jelly, if used for masking fruits or for covering, should Jo e^ heate d_and used while hot. ^"~ APPLE PASTRIES These pastries are very popular, though apples are one of the less expensive fruits. Apples may be used fresh or 109 CAKES FOR BAKERS stewed, also in combination with raisins and a little good apple jam may be added to the more expensive fruits, such as strawberries, raspberries or cherries, when preparing the fruit. The pastries may be made in the form of turnovers, crescents, small dumplings ; or they may be made in the form of an open tart, or fully covered, or meringued, or the stewed fruit or jam may be filled in ready cases, covered with cream or whipped cream and used in many other ways. French Apple Tarts No. 1 — Roll out bottom of puff paste or short paste, put on a border of the same paste. Spread a thin layer of apple jam in bottom and lay fresh or canned apples cut in even slices on the jam. Bake to a nice color and mask with hot jelly when done. No. 2 — Prepare case as in No. 1. Arrange the sliced apples in circular fashion in the case, sprinkle with sugar and cinna- mon, cover each tart with a buttered paper and bake until done. Remove paper and dust again with sugar. No. 3 — Use ready-baked cases. For filling useslicesof apples cut rather thi ck and sim mered in cinnamon-flavore d §yrup u ntil soft. Arrange slices neatly in the baked case. Place a cherry in the center and mask with the col d syru p. Apple Boats Line boat-shaped forms w ith short paste. Make a filling of finely c hopped app les mixed with ap ple j am and a few sultanas, the grated rindand juice of one orange; and sweet- ened to taste. Fill forms quite ful^.wash rim, _ and cut strips of same paste to form a lattice ; egg-wash and bake to a nice color. Apple Chantilly or Apple Cream Tarts Fill ready baked cases partly with stewed fruit or jam and cover with border and lattice, or a pyramid of whipped cream, then decorate with red colored apple jelly. For cream tart, fill the ready-baked case partly with fruit, cover with pastry cream, and finish with a lattice or pyramid of meringue; brown lightly in the oven. 110 CAKES FOR BAKERS Fresh stewed peaches or apricots may be used in the same way as apples, with whipped cream or pastry cream. TARTS AND TARTLETS Strawberry Tartlets No. 1 — Use ready-baked cases of puff paste, short paste or rich pie paste. Fill a layer of pastry cream in the bottom of each case and cover with sweet ripe berries. These may be finished with a border of whipped cream, meringue or fresh marshmallow. When using meringue, brown lightly in the oven. No. 2 — Bake cases from any of the .pastes as above. Fill with fresh berries, pyramid shape, cover with a jelly made as follows : Let 1 pint simple syrup come to a boil, add 1 table- spoonful dissolved cornstarch, and let boil clear, mix this with 1 pint of apple or apricot jelly. Cover the fruit with this evenly. Another way is to use a gelatine jelly as given above. Raspberries or blackberries may be used in like manner. Cherry Tartlets Remove the stones from the fresh fruit without undue crushing, simmer in syrup, and when nearly cold arrange fruit in cases and mask with the cold syrup. Or the fruit may be baked in the lined cases, sweetened and flavored with cinnamon, and afterwards covered with some hot jelly or cold jellied syrup. Or the baked case may be partly filled with pastry cream, covering this with the stewed fruit and finishing top with meringue or marshmallow. There are many other ways of using the prepared fruit or berries. Stewed figs, prunes or pineapple in ready-baked cases are very handy for the bakery lunchroom, and the cases can be made very attractive by brushing the sides with hot jelly and covering this with shredded cocoanut, chopped browned filberts or almonds, or pistachio nuts. Tartlet Carnival Under this name a variety of fruit cream tarts are made which may be prepared on short notice with ready-baked cases made of pUff paste or short paste, also by using small shallow cakes baked in tart or cup cake forms. Fresh fruits in season, ill CAKES FOR BAKERS very ripe and tender, also the preserved fruit and fruit jams, may be used for these tarts. Peach Carnival Put a spoonful of pastry cream or whipped cream in a shallow ready-baked tart case, cover this with half a fresh or preserved peach or apricot, etc. Cover the fruit with a crisp baked cover of the same paste used for the case, disguise the sides with a border of whipped cream, marshmallow or meringue, finish center with a star or ring, and top off with perfect halves of nuts or a cherry or a fresh berry dipped in jelly. Use other fruits the same as peaches. Another way is to bake small cakes, and cut a small cone from center. Brush sides with jelly or cream and cover with browned chopped nut meats. Put a dot of cream in the cavity, cover the cream with any fresh or preserved fruit and cover the fruit with a pyramid of whipped cream, marshmallow or meringue. Sprinkle a few browned chopped nuts on top, or finish with half a cherry in the center. Open Fruit Tarts In the opening remarks on ready-made cases, the preparing of fruits with or without gelatine glazing, to make them attrac- tive, has been explained. The fresh fruits, as well as the canned fruits, which may be sweetened to taste, allow for quite a large variety which always find a ready sale. When using the canned fruit, drain off the juice carefully and place the drained fruit with a little sugar in the lined cases, baking them nicely. While the fruit is baking, boil the juice down to a jelly, using about 1 pound sugar to 1 pint juice and boil- ing it down until rather thick, so it sets well when cold. The jellies may be slightly colored to make them attractive, if they are too light. Some fruits, such as peaches, apricots or strawberries, require no baking. A little jam may be placed in the cases, and when baked the peaches or other fruit are neatly placed on top of the jam, and the fruit masked with the boiled down jelly before it sets. The tarts may then be finished with border around the edge, using chopped nutmeats, etc. 112 CAKES FOR BAKERS English Cheese Tarts or Cheese Cake A large variety of these tarts, known by the name of cheese tarts, are in fact custards mixed with almonds, nuts, cake crumbs, etc., but contain no cheese in the proper sense. The best grades of these tarts contain large quantities of ground almonds, while in the cheaper grades almond essence takes the place of the almonds. American confectioners use ready-made almond paste or kernel paste in these tarts, and the tarts are generally known as almond tarts. Tart tins with a bent edge, lined with short paste or puff paste and cut out with scalloped cutters, make the best looking tarts. Alexandra Cheese Tartlets Cream together 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint eggs ; add the grated rind of 2 lemons, 6 ounces ground almonds and 1 pound cake flour. Line tins with short paste, put a little good fruit jam in bottom, and fill about three-fourths with the given filling. Bake in medium heat. The mixture should bake nice and round in center. Ice top with vanilla-flavored fon- dant, and sprinkle some browned chopped nuts on the soft icing. The tops may be finished in many other ways. Plain Cheese Cake Filling No. 1 — Cream together 2 pounds powdered sugar, l 1 /^ pounds butter, 12 eggs, the juice and rind of 2 lemons, 2 pounds cake crumbs. Use almond flavor or a few crushed nuts or almonds. No. 2 — 2!/£> pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter or substitute, 16 eggs, 3 pounds soft flour, flavor of almonds. If mixture is too firm a little milk may be added, but the mixture should not be too soft. To these mixtures some currants or sultanas may be added, more or less, according to prices obtained. The tins may be lined with puff paste trimmings or with short paste, and a little jam. placed in the bottom for the plain mixture ; in those with fruit it may be left out. Bake in medium heat, and when cold finish top as fancy dictates. The addition of melted chocolat e or cocoa, with a few crushed walnuts, makes another variety of tarts, which may 113 CAKES FOR BAKERS be iced in chocolate or in marble fashion, or chocolate and white. Congress Tart Fillings No. 1 — 1 pound ground almonds, 2% pounds coarse pow- dered sugar, 4 ounces rice flour or corn flour, 4 ounces cake crumbs, about % pint egg white, flavor of almond extract. No. 2 — 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar, 1 pound ground almonds, 3 ounces rice flour, about 14 egg whites, flavor of lemon or vanilla. The ingredients may all be mixed together and then beaten up in machine or by hand until nice and light. If mixture is too firm, a little water may be added. The tart tins may be lined with puff paste or short paste and a little jam placed in the bottom, then the fillings placed on top with a cross of paste on top of each. Macaroon Tart with Almond Paste or Kernel Paste One pound almond paste or kernel paste, H4 pounds coarse powdered sugar, about y<% pint of egg whites. Mix and finish like macaroon paste, line tins, and place cross of strips on each, the same as Congress tarts. Bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. Cocoanut Macaroon Tart Mix together IV2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2*4 pounds sugar — half powdered and half granulated — add about 114 pounds or pints egg whites. Set on the fire and stir until clear. Heat near boiling but do not let boil. Fill in the lined tart forms with or without jam in bottom. Bake in medium heat— 280 to 300 degrees. Chocolate Macaroon Tart Prenare a filling of almond paste or as for cocoanut macaroon tarts, add from 2 to 4 ounces melted cocoa or choco- late, and additional egg white to make a soft mixture. Bake the same as other macaroon tarts. Filbert or Hazelnut Tarts Take 1 pound coarse powdered sugar, 1/2 pound lightly roasted and ground filberts, and mix into a smooth paste with 114 CAKES FOR BAKERS sufficient egg white. Heat mixture the same as for cocoanut tarts. Then fill in short paste-lined forms and bake. St. Honore Tart, Victoria Tart, Metropolitan Tart Cut out bottoms of puff paste with scalloped cutter; set on wet pans and wash with water. With a bag and star tube dress a ring or border on top of the puff paste from the special French fried cake or cruller paste. Prick puff paste in the center and bake to a nice color. Glaze border with fon- dant and dip in chopped nuts or almonds, or dip in apricot jelly and sprinkle with cocoanut, etc. Fill center with nut cream or vanilla pastry cream and decorate with a dot of jelly. Variations of these tarts, which go by different names, are made by filling center of the baked tarts with fresh or pre- served fruit or fruit jams, covered with whipped cream or various flavored butter creams ; or fill some pastry cream in bottom and cover with jellied fruit as given in the section on fruit tarts. In French pastry shops small tarts often go by French names, which are perplexing. L emon tarts are known as citronettes, nut cream tarts as cremes noisette, small almon cl tarts "or ch ocolate tarts as fan chonet tes aux amandes or au chocolate, etc. In fact, most all the small fancy cakes go by a special name to distinguish the different cakes and fillings. There is much scope for variety and originality in this line for the -practical confectioner. German Cheese Tarts Filling No. 1 — Rub 8 ounces cottage cheese through a sieve, add 4 yolks, 4 beaten egg whites, 6 ounces sugar, a little milk, 2 ounces melted butter, the grated rind of a lemon, a little grated nutmeg. Filling No. 2 — 1 pound cottage cheese, 8 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 6 eggs, 2 ounces ground almonds, 2 ounces chopped orange and citron peel, the grated rind of a lemon, flavor of nutmeg or ma ce. Fill mixture in tart tins lined with puff paste. When done, dust with powdered sugar. A few sultanas or currants may be added to Nos. 1 and 2. 115 CAKES FOR BAKERS American Cheese Filling Take 8 ounces grated American cheese, mix with 8 eggs, 6 ounces sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, a little mace, gradually beat in 1 quart fresh milk. Fill in puff paste lined tart tins and bake. Dust with sugar and cinnamon when baked. Poppy Seed Tarts No. 1 — Let 1 pint milk come to a boil and pour over 4 ounces poppy seed to soften. Let cool and rub smooth in mortar, add 6 ounces sugar, 3 yolks of eggs and 3 egg whites beaten light. No. 2 — li/ 2 pints milk, 6 ounces sugar; let come to a boil and slowly add 4 ounces farina, or cream of wheat. Boil until it thickens, then add 4 ounces of poppy seed, stir and take off the fire. Let cool a little, then add 3 yolks and 3 egg whites beaten light. Fill in puff paste lined tart forms and bake. Dust with sugar or frost with vanilla icing when baked. Ascot Tarts Beat up 1/2 pint egg whites, gradually add 1 pound sugar, then mix in 6 ounces macaroon cocoanut and 4 ounces melted chocolate. Bake mixture in tins lined with tart paste and finish top to suit your fancy. Short Paste Tarts, Tumble Tarts Line small flat tins with plain short paste cut with scalloped cutter. Cream together 14 ounces butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, 5 eggs, or i/ 2 pint yolks, add vanilla flavor, i/ 2 Pint milk, 214 pounds cake flour, % ounce baking powder. Put mixture in bag with a star tube, run a ring around inside of the tart; let stand for a while to dry, then bake. Fill the center of ring with jam or jelly or use a combination of cream, butter cream and jelly. The outside of rim may be jellied and dipped in cocoanut or other chopped nut meats. Alliance Tart Roll out a sheet of puff paste about y 8 -inch thick. Over half of the rolled paste lay a rolled piece of short paste or almond short paste, fold over the bare half of the puff paste 116 CAKES FOR BAKERS and roll to 1,4-inch thickness. Cut in rounds, squares or diamond shape. Set on lightly greased pans, mark with a small round cutter in the center, not cutting quite through the paste; egg wash and bake in medium heat. Lift center and fill open space with butter cream or whipped cream, in pyramid shape, place cover on top of cream so the cream shows nicely. Finish top with icing or whipped cream and half a cherry. Spiced Crumb Tarts Line tart forms with plain short paste. Take 2 pounds good cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 4 eggs, V£ ounce mixed spice, add water or milk to make a not too soft mixture; fill in lined forms and bake. Ice in white, pink or' chocolate. Chocolate, chopped peel, or currants and raisins may be used in this mixture. Lemon Cream Tarts — Citronettes Bake tart cases and 'fill with lemon cream when baked. Cover with meringue and dust with sugar. Bake to a nice color. Richelieu Tart — Noisettes Line tart forms with short paste or puff paste, fill about half with pastry cream containing some nut meats chopped fine ; cover this with a soft macaroon paste mixed with coarsely chopped filberts and bake in medium heat. Glace with a thin fondant icing when baked. 117 VII. FRENCH PASTRIES French pastries consist of a variety of small puff pastries such as Napoleons or cream slices, turnovers, or rissoles, small tart plaits and many other shapes made of puff paste or com- binations of several pastes. The small pastries are usually gla c.ed.by dusting with po wdered su gar and exposing them to a quick heat wh ich melts the sugar to a caramel. An other method_of . glacing is to b rush the baked pastry wrEh a plain s yrup while hot. In late years the term French pastry has been applied to all small fancy cakes, including small tarts, "petit choux" or cream puffs, eclairs, and many other small dipped cakes which are known as "petite fours glace," translated into English, small iced or dipped cakes. While some of these fancy cakes may have originated in France, many of them are made in a larger variety and with greater perfection by other European confectioners. Many of the cakes have a special name in pro- fessional parlance, others are individual creations given a pleasing name by the maker. The possibilities in this line of cake are so large that an endless variety may be produced by the skillful confectioner. In my book, "Pastry for t he Res- taurant," these are specially featured, and "The"" T^unchroom '' and "Paul_Ri chards' P astr y Book" contain many other recipes for French pastry. Cream Slices — Napoleons Roll puff paste into a sheet about % inch thick and as long as the pan, cut into 4i/ 2 - to 5-inch wide strips. Let rest on the pans in a cool place, then prick strips with a fork to prevent blistering and bake in abou t 300 deg rees Fahr. T hese strips require a cooler oven than other p astry, because they should be ^ s ^S2£-^£J ;h JLI^i5i£2^-? n - Wnen baked spreadjDajjtxy cream .n,n_top_af one slice or strip and turn _on other strip, iSottoiiLj SJde up on top of the cream to obtain a sm£ath_suriace_ Torfrosting; ice "with a thin vanilla icing. When icing is 118 CAKES FOR BAKERS nearly dry cut with a sharp knife in slices or cut about 2V& by 5 inches. Two or three thin strips may be put together with jam and pastry cream, frosted and sprinkled with a few chopped nuts or browned almonds. Variation may be made, using chocolate icing, or the cut slices may be "Frenched" by covering top with whipped cream put on with bag and star tube, decorated with half a cherry in the center. Cream Rolls — Cornucopias Roll out puff paste y s inch thick, cut in strips 1 inch wide and about 10 inches 1 long, roll the washed strips on crea m roll tins ; let the strips slightly overlap each other. ''or. cornucopias use pointed cone shaped tins and roll the paste on the tins in cone shape. Let rest on the tins b efore baking, then eggjs&sh and bake in good heat. Dust with sugar when nearly baked, or glace with sugar syrup when baked, and when cool enough to handle remove from the tins. Cream rolls may be fi lled wi th whipp ed cream, pastry cream, marshmallow or m eringu e. ' Cornucopias are usually made smaller than cream rolls. A little preserve, jam orjejllymay be filled in the bottom, a nd t op filled with whipped creainTBuEtBi — cream or meringue. Turnovers — Rissoles The triangle shape is best to use in the bakery for turn- overs, as it prevents the making of scraps. But round shapes are also used, cut out with a 3- to 3Vi-inch-wide plain or scalloped cutter. For triangles roll puff paste out Vs mc h thick cut in 4-inch or 5-inch squares, wash sides with water, fill chopped and sweetened apples or other fruit in the center; fold over the other side, triangle shape, press down sides to inclose the fruit. For the round cuts roll each round slightly thin in center to form a long oval, then wash and fill same as the triangles. Let stand on pans before baking, then egg wash and bake in good heat, dust and glace like cream rolls. These are often baked without filling, and when baked the cream puff filler is used, some cream or jelly being forced in with the pump. Rissol es are, a smaller form of the turnover. Rounds or 119 CAKES FOR BAKERS squares of puff paste are filled and -folded over. The rissole i s then laidjn granu lated s ugar, and set on pan, sugar side down. When nearly baked and glaced on the under side, the top is dusted with powered sugar and put back in the oven on double pan to glace on top. When baked the rissoles are decorated— with strips of apple or currant jelly and royal icing. The rissoles are often made with fresh fruit in season, or with preserved fruits and jams, simply filled, glaced when baked, and decorated. (Pretzels or Figures of Eighty Cut strips of rolled out paste from 9 to 10 inches long — 1/2 to % inch wide, wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Twist strips and form into pretzel on pan and bake in medium oven until nice and crisp. For eights omit the sugar. Form in figure on the pan and bake without washing. When done brush over with hot fruit ^jeTTyr sprinkle one side with finely chopped pistachio nuts and crushed loaf sugar, the other side with chopped almonds and sugar. Crescents and Horseshoes No. 1 — Cut strips of rolled-out paste 4 inches long and 1 inch wide. Lay these strips over tins bent half round and set on pans. These strips may be washed and sprinkled with chopped almonds, or covered with a macaroon paste and laid in chopped almonds before placing them on the tins. When baked and taken from the tins put five large dots of meringue on the under side, dust with sugar, and brown lightly in the oven. No. 2 — Cut wide strips, 2i/ 2 x6 inches ; place a strip of jam or almond paste filling along the center and fold over the paste. Then make eight or ten cuts half through the paste on one side, and set on pans in crescent shape. Wash and glace after baking. Such strips may be twisted after being filled, and set on pans in crescent or horseshoe shape. Palm Leaves, Fans, Parisiennes No. 1 — Roll fresh paste or trimmings into a square of about 18 inches, dust with sugar, roll, pin over, fold in two sides to center, dust again with sugar and fold again, and 120 CAKES FOR BAKERS continue folding and dusting until the piece is only about 4 inches wi de. Dust agaiiTwith sugar and bring one layer over the other. This will maKe a strip about 2 inches wide, 1^4 inches thick. Cut in slices y% inch wide, lay these on very clean, lightly-greased tins, make cuts inside up and down, 2^ inches apart. Bake in hot oven. When partly baked dust with sugar, turn over on the pan with palette knife, dust again, and finish baking. Two of each shape may be sandwiched with jam and decorated. No. 2 — Roll out puff paste about V2 inch thick, cut from it 3-inch strips, cut the strips in 1/4-inch bars, lay these in gran- ulated sugar on the cut side, then lay with the sugar side on clean pans and bake in quick heat. They will spread about li/2 inches when baked. Set them together with jam, on the unglaced side. Ice with a strip of fondant or in fan or sun shape. Bourbon Condes Cover a thin sheet of paste with preserve, plum jam, apri- cot or green gage jam. Cover this with a soft macaroon paste, using bag and tube. Cut in squares or other shapes, and bake in a medium heat. Decorate each piece with a ring of royal icing, with a dot of jam in center. Monte Carlos Roll out and cut rounds of paste, set on wet pans, and wash edges. Fill center with macaroon paste, not covering edge; lay another round on top and press down the edges, mark with a sharp knife around and prick in the center. Wash with egg and bake, then glace with sugar or syrup. Alumnettes — Royal Batons Roll paste out % inch thick. Spread with royal icing. Sprinkle with chopped almonds. Cut in strips 4 inches long and 1^4 inches wide. Let s tand on the pa ns for 15 minutes to dry the icing, then bake in a cool oven. Richelieus Roll out paste and cut out circles, about 3 inches in diam- eter and Ys' inch thick. Cut a slit in the center, and through 121 CAKES FOR BAKERS this slit _paas a .piec e of crosscut paste 4 inche s long and y 2 inch wide, so that the cut side rests on the pan. W ash the circle with egg and sprinkle with granulated sugar and almonds. Bake, and when done coat the end pieces with svrup or jam and sprinkle with sugar or ice with fondant. Mille Feuille Put jam between two thin layers of paste, cut in squares or slices and bake. When nearly done glace and finish baking. Two of these may be put together, masked with hot jelly, and sprinkled with shredded browned almonds. Another way is to cut strips or squares of rolled-out paste which is washed with egg and covered with s treusel. such as is used on the coffee cake. Bake in good heat. Or squares are cut from paste washed and set on pans and a cross of firm macaroon paste is put on. These are baked in medium heat. Croix de Malta — Maltese Cross Cut puff paste rolled l/ 8 inch thick in 3i/ 2 -inch squares. Cut from each corner to y 2 inch of the center. Mark center with small round cutter. Egg wash and bake, glace with sugar or syrup. Push down in center, fill with jelly. Outline cross with white icing. Fleurons and Rosettes Fleurons are cut in cresceni_shap_e^ or in small star sh apes and washed with egg. The star shapes may be filled by marTc- ing the center and glacing the baked shapes. These small sweet pastries may be served with ice creams or fancy jellies and puddings as a garniture. Without sugar they are used for garniture for meat dishes. For ro^etteg^cut out shapes with five- or _six4iQinted_star_ aitter^ wash center, and fold pa intsjg meet in^jthe center^ Wash, glace and bake. These may be filled with various creams or jams, like the others, and slightly decorated if desired. Buckinghams and Florentines Cut thin bottoms of scrap paste 2i/ 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Set on wet pans, wash with water, cut out rings of i/ 8 -inch 122 CAKES FOR BAKERS paste with scalloped cutter and set on the bottoms, laying rings in crushed sugar and almonds. Bake, and when done fill center with whipped cream and place fresh strawberries or raspberries on top. These may first be dipped in hot jelly to glace them. Preserved fruits and jams may be used. For Florentines fill the baked forms with plum or other fruit jam; cover with a pyramid of meringue, sprinkle with shredded almonds, and brown nicely in the oven. Talmouses — Parmesans Make a filling similar to cream puff paste as follows : Take 1 pint milk, 2 ounces butter; let come to a boil. Add 6 ounces flour, and mix into a smooth paste. Take off the fire, and add by degrees 6 ounces grated Parmesan cheese or hard Ameri- can cheese, mix and add 21/2 ounces sugar, a pinch of salt, some nutmeg and the grated rind of half a lemon, 4 yolks, and about one-half cupful of cream, to make a paste not too soft. Roll out puff paste Ys inch thick and cut rounds 3V2 inches in diameter, wash with water. Fill a spoonful of the cheese paste in the center. Fold up the sides over the paste to form a three-cornered-hat shape. Egg wash, bake and glace with sugar. Another cheese filling is made as follows: Mix 1/2 pound dry cheese curd with 3 ounces sugar, 3 yolks, y% ounce cornstarch, a little grated lemon rind, and nutmeg. Roll out puff paste and cut in 3!/2-mch squares. Fill a spoonful of cheese in center. Fold the four corners of the paste to the center, overlapping slightly. Egg wash, bake, and glace as usual. Other Small Puff or French Pastries The preceding recipes show how quite a large variety of puff pastries may be made. The size should correspond with the price obtained, and it is always best to make them of a size so they may be sold with other small fancy cakes in an assort- ment. Decorations and fillings may be varied by using the many icings and fillings. Small Puff Pastries and Tarts A variety of tartlets are made in different ways, by alter- ing their form and design, masking them with meringue, or 123 CAKES FOR BAKERS decorating them with various icings,' or using different col- ored jellies and French fruit glaces. These tartlets are known by the French names of "Darioles," "Mirlitons" and "Fancho- nettes." These tartlets are made by lining small forms with puff paste, filling and baking them with custards of different flavors. The top is finished in many ways. "Darioles" Line tins and fill with a custard made of 1 pint milk or cream, 5 ounces sugar, 6 yolks, 1 ounce cornstarch, then add 4 ounces crushed macaroons. When baked they are usually served plain, with a star of whipped cream or butter cream in center. Darioles au Cafe are filled with coffee-flavored custard. Darioles au Vanilla are filled with vanilla-flavored custard. "Mirlitons" Mirlitons are filled with different nut creams or partly filled with preserves, and covered with the custard. Fanchonettes Fanchonettes are made in many ways, filled with custards, pastry creams mixed with nuts; chocolate or preserved fruit is filled in the bottom. The decoration is made more or less elaborate by piping fancy designs of meringue, these designs decorated again with bright jellies or different colored fon- dant, or sprinkled with chopped nuts. These tartlets are named, according to fillings used, Fanchonettes a la Vanilla, Fanchonettes au Chocolate, Fanchonettes aux Amandes (almonds), and, if filled with fruits, fresh or preserved or in combinations, Fanchonettes aux Fruits, or aux Apricots, aux Peches, etc. A small French tartlet is made like the usual patty shell and baked in the same way. These are finished after baking, dipped in stron g 1 svrup boiled to the crack d egree and sprinkled with various chopped juits^or dipped or masked with hot fruit jelly and covered with nuts, etc. All the different fruits and preserves are used singly or in combinations, and the tarts are named accordingly. These go by the names of Petite Vol au Vents, aux Fruits or a la creme, etc. 124 CAKES FOR BAKERS Many other styles of tarts are made by Continental con- fectioners. Tart forms are lined with short paste, or baked cases of puff paste are made and filled as required. Fruits in season are used, also the preserved fruits. A large variety of apple fillings, fresh or preserved, have proved good sellers. All these pastries, if made carefully and made to look pretty, are now classed under French pastries, but are known under many other names in different localities. MOCHA CAKES— BUTTER CREAM CAKES In the "French Pastry Shops" quite a large variety of cakes are made and given special names to go by, but are also termed French Pastry. The best grades of these cakes are made with a foundation of good Genoise or pound cake baked in thick^ sheets or from a good" light san^'"£br'te~6TTTenha butter sponge, and others simply from a common plain sponge cake or from some plain jelly roll mixture. Two thin sheets are cut and put together, or the thick sheets are cut in strips, sliced and filled with butter cream or jam. Some of the cake mixtures are also baked in cups, small heart shapes, or in rings to save the cutting or trimming. After being filled with various flavored and colored creams or other fillings, the strips are finished on the top by running a strip of cream on each side and a good strip of jam is run along the center. The finished strips are then cut in bars or slices, using a knife dipped in hot water before each cut. When making individual cakes the slices are filled and cut in triangles, squares or diamonds which make the least trimmings, the top and sides are masked with some of the filling and finished in various ways. The other crumby mixtures which cannot be dipped easily are filled, cut in pieces and set on wire trays a little apart, and the icing or the warm fondant is poured over the pieces, covering them entirely. Before the icing sets, each piece is decorated with a dot of icing scrolls, French fruit, etc. The butter cream fillings are the most popular and easily made, the sides of each piece are brushed with some of the filling and covered with cocoanut, browned almonds or roasted fil- berts. The center is decorated in various ways; if butter cream is used this cream is made slightly firmer to keep its shape well. 125 CAKES FOR BAKERS c a fa ca O 3 CAKES FOR BAKERS Quite a large variety of these cakes can be made by using the different fillings and icings in pleasing combinations, keep- ing in mind that the dry sponge cakes require a moister filling than the richer pound and Genoise >cake. By using fruit flavored icings and fruit fillings in the warm season, the richer cream fillings during the cooler months, a constant variety may be produced. These small individual cakes sell by the piece at from 10 to 15 cents each. Special fancy cakes sell for higher prices. One method of making small dipped cake is to bake very thin sheets of cake. Put these together* in from three to six layers, with various fillings, then cut in pieces and dip or cover with various colored and flavored icings and decorate as fancy directs. Small Fancy Cakes Made from Short Paste Use almond short paste or other short paste, or a combina- tion made of puff paste and short paste (see Alliance Tartlet) . Roll out and cut small figures in pairs, such as crescents, squares, rounds, stars, heart shapes, etc. Set on pans and bake, then sandwich together with firm fillings. These may be dipped and finished in many ways. Small. Fancies from Sponge Cake Mixture Use a good ladyfinger mixture or prepare a special mixture from 24 to 28 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1*4 pounds flour. Stir yolks light with three-fourths of sugar, beat up whites and beat in one-fourth of the sugar, then add whites to yolks and draw in the flour. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. Lay this mixture out with bag and plain tube in fancy shapes on paper, bake in medium heal; — about 320 de- grees. Sandwich together in pairs, dip and decorate. Another variety of cakes may be made by baking fancy shapes from the regular plain macaroon paste and sand- wiching these together, or using a similar shape baked of short paste or sponge cake, or of meringu'e paste; sandwich, or fill and dip, and decorate. These fancy cakes when finished may be placed in fancy crimped paper cases when put on sale. 127 VIII. COOKIES OR HARD CAKES HOW TO WORK THEM The production of small cakes is a very important branch of cake making and a certain skill is required to get them perfect. A very large proportion of cookies is now made in the cracker factories, where special machines are used for the different kinds. Some mixtures are made firmer than the hand-made cookies, run out on a panning machine and cut out with various cutters. A bar attachment is used on the same machine for bar goods. A soft cake depositing machine is used for other goods and a similar machine used by cake bakers to facilitate quick work. For the hand-made cookies a general rule is n ot to toug hen the mixture by overworkin g when adding the flour. Soft short winter wheat flour is best adapted for such goods. Some mixtures are~T mproved by giving time to rest after mixing. Mixtures are best wor ked up in a - cool place. Salt must be added when using saltless fats. Some mixtures which contain fruit are best made up with- out rolling out and cutting out. The mixtures are better worked by rolling out in strips and cutting with knife or scraper into pieces, usually from 12 to 16 to a pound. The pieces are then rounded up and set on greased pans, taking care to get them far enough apart. A small board with a .strip for a handle is used to flatten the pieces evenly. Some cookies are washed jwith an egg-wash before baking, others are turned on the pan,~ after being flattened, into granulated jsugar or on chopped nutmeats b efore ba kings- Some bakers sprinkle sugar on the rolled out sheet of paste before cutting out the cakes. Some cookies are baked in steam. This makes them spread anoTg'ives a nice crack, and where no steam is available the cookies may be dampened with a wet cloth or washed to make them spread better. Spices and flavorings" should be employed with discretion. Egg coloring is often used in low-priced goods. 128 CAKES FOR BAKERS SCOTCH SHORTBREAD Shortbreads are very popular. Only b est butter should be used for the hp,^ grprlp^, hut a good shortcake may be made by using half butter and half high-grade butterine. It is said that the re al shortbread shou ld be made w ithout an y moisten- ing, but it is prefer able to add egg or _a little millc without depreciating the. quality. Use a soft rich winter wheat flour and a not too finely ground powdered sugar. No. 1 — 4 pounds -flour, 2 to 2^4 pounds butter, 1 pound sugar, 2 eggs or yolks of eggs. No. 2 — 2 pounds flour, 11/2 pounds butter, % pound sugar, 2 eggs, % ounce baking soda. No. 3 — 2 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, V& pound sugar, 3 eggs. Method of mixing: Rub sugar with eggs, then rub with the butter, not_crgaming, simply mixing in, then draw in nearly all of the flour — except a handful. Mix into a medium soft paste without warming the mixture, then add the re- maining flour. After the -dfijiglt-has rested for a whi le in a cool place it is ready for scaling in pieces and moulding in blo^kli7"or~ f or rolling out in various shapes, pinching up the edges to form a fancy border. The cakes are usually docked with a fork or special docker. Plain round pieces or block shortbreads may be decorated with a piece of citron or half a candied cherry or sprinkled with caraway comfits. Large shortbreads are baked in hoops to protect the sides. These pieces are often decorated with fondant and French fruit glaces and royal icing, crystallized fruit, or otherwise as fancy directs. Small Fancy Shortbreads Roll the shortbread dough about ^4 mcn thick, cut in rounds measuring from 2 to 3 inches with scalloped cutter, set on pans. Then make an almond short paste, mixing 4 ounces ground almonds,' l 1 /^ pounds butter, 10 ounces pow- dered sugar, 1*4 pounds flour and 2 yolks to a smooth paste. Dress with large grooved star tube and bag in various designs or in border shape on the cut-out pieces and bake. For plainer cakes mix % pound butter, 1 pound sugar, i/ 2 pint yolks, V6 pint milk, 2 pounds flour and 14 ounce baking 129 CAKES FOR BAKERS powder. Dress on the cut-out cakes with bag and star tube. Bake and decorate the cakes after baking, using various col- ored and flavored icings. Chocolate may be worked into the pastes for another variety. COOKIES Fig Newtons or Fig Bars Mix together 3 pounds bread flour, \y 2 pounds sugar, 2 ounces baking powder, a pinch of salt. Rub in 12 ounces lard and mix with l*/2 pints milk into a smooth rolling paste; flavor as desired. Roll out into i/ 8 -inch-thick sheet, cut in 3-inch-wide strips. Spread some ready-made fig jam with bag and flat tube in the center, fold the sides over the jam, and set strips on pan. Mark in bars, and cut after baking, or cut in pieces before baking. Fruit or Brown Cookies Eight pounds brown sugar, or, if granulated sugar is used, add 1 pint molasses, 4 pounds compound, 3y 2 pints eggs, 8 pounds seedless raisins, 2 ounces spices, Zy% ounces ammonia dissolved in 1 quart milk, 12 pounds cake flour. Mix"makes 42 dozen. Eggless Crumb Cookie Soak 3 pounds cake crumbs in 1 quart water, add 3 ounces soda; rub together 2i/ 2 pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds shortening, 11/2 ounces spices, li/ 2 pints molasses; mix with crumbs and water, then add 5i/ 2 pounds cake flour. Cut out with 2i/ 2 -inch cutter, lay in granulated sugar, set on pans, make a dent in center, fill in a drop of j.elly and bake. Mixture makes 18 to 19 dozen cookies. Cocoanut Crescents One quart egg whites, 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, i/ 2 pound flour, 5 pounds granulated sugar. Mixjngr edients in JcettJe_gjtJnJ^„wii:^ cool, and dress out with bag and plain tube on paper or flour-dusted greased pans, in crescent shape. Mix should make 12 dozen cakes. 130 CAKES FOR BAKERS Brown Cookie Mixture Two pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound compound, 4 or 5 eggs, 1 ounce soda, y% pint or more molasses, 1 pound cur- rants, 1/2 pint water, flavor sufficient to make a smooth rolling mixture. Add spices, cut out with 23,4-inch cutter. Makes 15 dozen cookies. Fine Ginger Nuts Five pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 3 ounces salt, 2 1/2 ounces soda. Mix together, add 1 ounce ginger, 2 pints molasses, 1V 2 pints water, 9 pounds soft cake flour. Universal Cookie Mixture Seven pounds sugar, 3^ pounds shortening, 1 pint eggs, 2 quarts milk, 13 pounds cake flour sifted with 12 ounces baking powder. Mix may be divided and part of it mixed with chopped nut meats, cpcoanut, fruit, peel, caraway seed, left plain, or washed and sprinkled with coarse sugar, etc. Bake in 375 degrees Fahr. Peanut Slices, Almond Bread One pound cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, about .8 eggs, V2 pound shelled blanched peanuts or almonds, i/4 ounce cinnamon, y s ounce ammonia. Make into a firm dough, cut over several times with a sharp knife to cut the nuts in smaller pieces. Form in long strips set on greased pans, flatten and wash with egg. Bake in medium heat . Cut in slices when baked. Chocolate Almond Bread Three-quarters pound sugar, % pound flour, IV2 pound cake crumbs, y% pound raw almonds, 6 eggs, ^4 ounce am- monia, 2 ounces melted chocolate or cocoa, y% ounce cinna- mon and cloves. Mix and work like peanut slices, make in strips V2 m ch thick, bake and ice with vartilla, and cut in slices while warm. Sugar Cookies No. 1 — 41/2 pounds sugar, 2*4 pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 ounces cream tartar (phosphate), 2 ounces 131 CAKES FOR BAKERS soda, flavor of mace and vanilla, 9 pounds cake flour. Mix- ture makes 25 dozen. Cut out with 3-inch plain cutter. Bake in 375 degrees. No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, l 1 /^ pounds compound, 3 eggs, lemon flavor, 1*4 quarts buttermilk, 2 ounces ammonia, 6^ pounds soft cake flour. Mix and cream sugar, shortening and eggs, dissolve the ammonia in the milk, then add flour. Bake in good heat. Mix makes 12 to 14 dozen. Lemon Cookies — Fruit Cookies 4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 1 pint eggs, 1 pint milk, 6 pounds flour, 4^ ounces baking powder, lemon flavor. For fruit cookies add V2 pound finely chopped citron, 2 to 3 pounds sultanas. Mix like sugar cookies, cut out, wash with egg. Roll fruit cookies in strips, round up, set on pans, flatten and wash with egg, bake in 350 to 375 degrees. Mix makes 20 dozen. Oatmeal Cookies No. 1 — 3 pounds brown sugar, IV2 pounds lard, % ounce soda, % ounce cinnamon, 1/2 pint yolks, l/ 2 pint water, 3 pounds flour, 2 pounds rolled oats, 1^4 pounds seedless raisins. Mix and work like fruit cookies, wash with eggs, turn on pan in granulated sugar. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 10 dozen. No. 2 — 114 pounds sugar, % pound lard, 1 ounce soda, mix in bowl, add % pint molasses, i/ 2 pint milk, then add iy 2 pounds flour, % ounce cream of tartar, 1/2 ounce ammonia, and IV2 pounds bulk oatmeal. Cut with 2i/ 2 -inch cutter, wash with egg-wash. Mix makes from 8 to 9 dozen. Molasses Cookies No. 1 — 6 pounds granulated sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2 quarts molasses, 2 quarts water, 4 ounces soda, 1 ounce cinnamon, i/ 2 ounce ginger, i/ 2 ounce cloves, 16 pounds flour. Makes 30 dozen. Rub sugar, lard and spices together, add molasses, water and soda, then flour. Cut with 3-inch scalloped cutter. Bake on lightly greased pans, in 350 degrees Fahr., with a little steam. If no steam, wash with water. No. 2—2 quarts molasses, i/ 2 pound melted lard, 7 pounds 132 CAKES FOR BAKERS flour, 1 pint milk, 2 ounces soda, spices. Wash with egg and milk and bake in slow oven. Bolivars 2 quarts molasses, 1 quart milk, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces soda, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spice, 9 pounds flour. Scotch Cookies No. 1 — 41/2 pounds granulated sugar, 21/2 pounds com- pound, 16 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 31/2 ounces soda dissolved in a little water, 8V2 pounds flour, cinnamon, allspice, lemon. Cut out with plain 3-inch cutter, egg wash, bake in 350 de- grees. .No. 2 — 5 pounds sugar, 21/2 pounds lard, 5 eggs, y% pint molasses, 1 quart milk, 21/2 ounces soda, 8V2 pounds flour, spices to suit taste. Crumb Cookies No. 1 — 2 pounds C sugar, 114 pounds shortening, 1 quart molasses, 5 eggs, iy% pints water, 31/2 ounces soda sifted in 6 pounds flour, 3 pounds cake crumbs, spices as required. No. 2 — Put 3 pounds crumbs, 1 quart water, % quart mo- lasses, 3 ounces soda in bowl, mix, add cinnamon and lemon, add 21/2 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds lard, mix, and add 5% pounds flour. Cut with 2i/2-inch plain cutter, dip in sugar. A little jelly may be put in a dent made in the center. Mix makes 18 to 19 dozen. Soft Ginger Cookies Mix 214 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds lard, 4 ounces soda, and cinnamon and ginger in a bowl, add 2 quarts molasses, 1 quart milk. Then add IOV2 pounds flour. Cut out with 3-inch scal- loped cutter, wash with milk. Mix makes 20 dozen. Honey Cookies No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 3 quarts honey, 10 eggs, 3 ounces soda, I/2 pint water, 13 pounds flour. Rub sugar and eggs, add honey and soda, dissolved in water. Work, mix well on the bench for 10 minutes. Bake sample and if cookie flattens too much the doUgh requires more working. Grease pans and wet 133 CAKES FOR BAKERS lightly with brush to prevent cookies from sliding while being washed with the syrup. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 32 dozen. Cut with plain cutter. Syrup for wash : Dissolve 1 pound icing sugar in scant y% pint of water. Imitation Honey Cookie No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, 1^ pounds shortening, 1 quart artificial or pure honey, 1 quart light-colored molasses, 1 scant quart milk, 3 ounces soda, 10 pounds flour, flavor mace and -lemon. This mixture is also made with fruit, adding li/2 ounces spices, 1 pound mixed peel (citron and orange) and 1 pound currants or seeded raisins, run through meat grinder. Mix and treat like No. 1. Wash with syrup, and bake in 350 degrees. Hermits 4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, IV2 pints eggs, 1 pint molasses, 1 pint milk, 1-1/2 ounces soda, 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce mixed spice, 5 to 6 pounds currants and seedless raisins, 1/2 ounce ginger, 7 pounds flour. Roll out and cut y± inch thick with 2-inch cutter, wash with milk. Cocoanut may be added with less fruit, or mincemeat may be used in a softer mixture which can be dropped out like a drop cake, on greased and flour-dusted pans. Dark Fruit Cookies Rub together 2V4 pounds sugar, 1 pound 2 ounces com- pound, 6 eggs; add V2 pint molasses, V2 pint water, 1 ounce soda dissolved in water, then 3 pounds 14 ounces soft flour. When partly mixed put in % pound currants or chopped rais- ins, season with cinnamon and cloves, add salt. Roll out and cut with 3-inch plain cutter. Wash with milk and egg. Mix makes about 14 dozen. Cookie improves if a day old. Rough and Readys, or Log Cabin Cookies 3 pounds sugar, li/ 2 pounds shortening, 10 whole eggs, 5 yolks, 1 quart milk, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar (or 4 ounces baking powder), 6 pounds cake flour. Flavor with mace and lemon. Mix as usual, set on pans, dip^ in sugar, then mark crosswise with a fork or cardboard. Bake in 360 to 375 degrees. 134 CAKES FOR BAKERS Graham Cookies 3 pounds sugar, \y<% pounds shortening, 1 pint eggs, l 1 /^ pints milk, 2 pounds • Graham flour, 2 ounces cake flour,' 2y% ounces baking powder. Mix as usual. Drop on greased pans like drop cakes. May be washed and sprinkled with coarse sugar. v\ Bran Cookies Cream 21/2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, V2 pint eggs, 1 pint milk, i/ 2 ounce ammonia together; add IV2 pounds bran, IV2 pounds cake flour to make a smooth dough. Roll out and cut thin, same as lemon snaps. Bake in .30.0 degrees ^ Flavor with vanilla or with spices. Spanish Cookies 3V2 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 3 pounds crumbs, 3 pounds flour, 5 eggs, IV2 pints milk, 1/2 ounce ammonia, 1/2 ounce soda, 1 pound chopped fruit, raisins or currants, V2 ounce mixed spices. Mix as usual. Cut in 1-ounce pieces, roll in ovals, and flatten on pan. Dip on pan in sugar, bake in medium heat. Peanut Cookies 2 pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds shortening, 1 pint yolks, V2 pint milk, flavor of mace, 4 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder. Mix as usual, cut out in shapes desired, wash and sprinkle with chopped peanuts. Bake in medium oven. Cocoanut Cookies Cream together 2 pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds cocoa butter, 2 pints eggs; add i/ 2 pint honey, IV2 pints milk, li/ 2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, about 4i/ 2 to 5 pounds flour, 3 ounces bak- ing powder, vanilla. Mix and cut out any size desired. Egg-wash and sprinkle some coarse desiccated cocoanut on top. Medium .oven. Chocolate Cookies 2 pounds sugar, 1/2 pound butter, 8 eggs, 1 ounce ammonia, y 2 ounce cinnamon, l/ 2 pound cocoa or melted chocolate, 2 pounds cake flour. Mix smooth with very little milk. Bake in various shapes. Ice when done. 135 CAKES FOR BAKERS Almond Cookies Rub IV2 pounds almond paste smooth with 18 eggs and add 4!/4 pounds dark brown sugar. Add 1 ounce soda, mix well, then work in 4V& pounds flour. Egg-wash, sprinkle a few chopped almonds in center. Cut with 214-inch plain cut- ter. Mix makes 35 dozen. Tea Cookies 3 pounds brown sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, a little salt, creamed together ; add V2 ounce cinnamon, 14 ounce ginger, 14 ounce nutmeg and 10 eggs. Dissolve V2 ounce soda and 14 ounce ammonia in 14 pint water, and mix with 4Vfc pounds soft flour. Roll out thin, cut with plain cookie cutter, set on table, dampen with wet cloth, and sift icing sugar over cakes, then pan and bake in moderate oven. Makes about 20 dozen. Lemon Fruit Bar 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pint eggs, scant pint water, 2*/2 ounces ammonia. 7y% pounds flour, lemon flavor, 1*4 pounds sultanas or currants. Cool oven. Almond or Nut Bars, or Cocoanut Bars 1 pound sugar, i/ 2 pound shortening, 3 eggs, 1/2 pint milk, 1/2 pounds short cocoanut, li/ 2 pounds cake flour, 14 ounce baking powder. Or use raw ground almonds or walnuts in place of cocoanut. Mix all ingredients to a medium paste, roll in strips, set on pans, flatten a little, egg wash and bake: Or the strips may be cut on the table and set on the pans, washed and baked. Dark Fruit Bars 1 pound sugar, i/ 2 pound lard, 3 eggs, I/4, pint molasses, % pound crumbs, 1 pound flour, 1/2 ounce baking powder, 1 pound fruit. Mix like nut bars. Cocoanut Bars No. 1—4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds lard, 1 pint eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 ounce ammonia, 2 pounds cocoanut, 6%. pounds cake flour. Mix and form in strips, flatten on pans, egg wash, sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake and cut while warm. 136 CAKES FOR BAKERS Eggless Cocoanut Bars No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, !/2 pint mo- lasses, 1 quart milk, 2 pounds short cocoanut, 1 ounce soda, vanilla, 3 pounds flour. Mix into a soft mass, dress with bag and large flat star tube in fingers on greased pans. Bake in medium oven. Oriental Fruit Bar Cream together 1/2 pound lard, \y% pounds sugar, 5 eggs, I.1/2 pints molasses, % ounce cloves, % ounce cinnamon; add 1 pint milk, \y% ounces soda dissolved in the milk, 41/^ pounds flour. Mix with 2 pounds raisins, 1 pound currants, 1 pound citron, 1 pound figs finely chopped, V2 pound nuts. Scale IV2 pound pieces, roll in strips, set on pans, three strips on each pan, flatten, egg wash and bake in 320 degrees. Let cool. Bars improve if a day old. They may be iced and cut in slices. Drop Cakes — Hermits 5 pounds sugar, 2Va pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 2V2 quarts milk, 4 ounces soda, 8 pounds flour, 3 pounds currants, 3 pounds short cocoanut, 2 ounces cinnamon. Mix as usual. Drop on greased and dusted pans, 20 on a pan. Mix makes 20 pans. Medium oven. Ginger Drop Cakes 1 pound sugar, % pound lard, 5 eggs, V2 Pint molasses, 1/2 ounce soda dissolved in % pint milk, 1% pounds flour, i/ 2 ounce baking powder, 1 ounce ginger and cinnamon. Mix as usual, drop out on greased and dusted pans. Molasses and Spice Drop Cakes Mix 12 ounces lard, % pound sugar, 5 eggs, 1/2 ounce gin- ger, 1 quart molasses, ll/ 2 Pints water, 3% pounds soft flour and 2 ounces baking powder together. Drop out on dusted, greased pans. For spiced drop cookies add spices. Drop a raisin on top of each cookie before baking. Mix makes eight dozen. Soft Ginger Drops 414 pounds brown sugar, 1% pounds lard, 1/2 ounce salt, 21/2 ounces soda, 1 ounce mixed ginger and cinnamon, flavor 137 CAKES FOR BAKERS of lemon, 3 pints molasses, 5 pints sweet or sour milk, 2 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake flour. Mix like molasses cake, drop on dusted pans, with seedless raisins on top. Makes 15 dozen. Yellow Drop Cakes 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 12 eggs, 11/2 pints milk, 1 ounce ammonia, 4 pounds soft flour, 2 ounces baking powder. Mix as usual. Drop on greased and dusted pans. Coco-Butters — Mansfield's Cocoanut Drop Cookies Put in bowl 5 quarts water, 1/2 pound soda, salt to season, 4 pounds lard ; break this all up so the lard is in small pieces, add 6 pounds macaroon cocoanut, stir well together, 26 pounds cake flour, and 12 pounds granulated sugar on top of flour, then mix well. Use this for machine. If dropping out by hand use 24 pounds flour. Drop about size of an egg. Mix makes 65 dozen. ^ Cocoanut Drop Cookies, White 1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound butter, 5 eggs, 1 pint milk, iy% pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, 1 pound cocoanut. Mix and drop out on lightly greased pans. SNAPS, JUMBLES AND WAFERS Lemon Snaps No. 1 — 2V2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 7 to 8 eggs, 21/2 pounds soft flour, 14 ounce ammonia, lemon flavor, milk as required. Roll out thin, cut with small snap cutter, set on greased pans, egg wash, and bake in 350 degrees. Lemon Snaps, to Drop Out with Bag and Tube No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 10 to 11 eggs, grated rind and juice of 4 lemons, 2i/ 2 pounds flour sifted with 1 ounce baking powder. Ginger Snaps to Drop Out No. 1—11/4 pounds sugar, i/ 2 pound lard, 5 eggs, 1 pint molasses, 1 pint water, 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce mixed spice — half ginger, flour sufficient to make a soft mixture. 138 CAKES FOR BAKERS Ginger Snaps with Crumbs, Eggless No. 2 — 1% pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 quart molasses, 1 pound crumbs soaked in 1 pint water, and 2 ounces soda, spices, flour to mix. No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 quart molasses, 1 pint water, 2 ounces soda, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spice, 14 ounce salt, 614 pounds soft wheat flour. Mix as usual. Cut with 2-inch snap cutter, wet on pans, or bake in a little steam. Vanilla Jumbles 2 pounds sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 1 pint milk, y% ounce soda, 1 ounce cream of tartar, 4Vfc pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cakes, lay out in rings with bag and large star tube, on lightly greased pans. Let stand to dry 1/2 hour ; this brings out the star in better shape. Bake in 375 degrees Fahr. Chocolate Jumbles Add 2 ounces melted chocolate to jumble mixture given, sprinkle with granulated sugar. Eggless Jumbles — Jelly Rings 114 pounds sugar, li/ 2 pounds butter, 1 pound lard, 3 pounds cake flour, 14 ounce baking powder, vanilla, egg color. Mix as usual. These are best dressed with bag and large star tube in small patty tins, making rings and leaving center open. Bake in medium oven, dust with sugar, and put a dot of good jam in center. "S" Jumbles 2 pounds flour, 114 pounds butter, % pound sugar, 4 whole eggs, 8 yolks, vanilla or lemon flavor. Butter Rings 2V 2 pounds flour, V/% pounds butter, 1 pound sugar, 9 eggs, a little ammonia, vanilla. Use biscuit or jumble machine and set on pans in small rings. Bake in medium heat. 139 CAKES FOR BAKERS Champagne Strips or Wafers Use butter ring mixture. Use flat corrugated die in bis- cuit machine. Cut in 4-inch strips, bake on double tins. Spiced Crumb Rings Rub 7 ounces butter in 1 pound flour, add 1 pound sifted cake crumbs, 12 ounces sugar, 1/2 ounce mixed spices, mix with 2 or 3 eggs and 1 ounce ammonia, and a little water, into firm paste. Use star die in biscuit forcer, and form in small rings on the pan. Ice rings when baked. Wafer Jumbles iy% pounds powdered sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 214 pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cake, keep cool, and dress with medium-sized star tube on lightly greased pans in ring or "S" shape, or in small bars which may be sprinkled with cocoanut, chopped almonds, or left plain. White Vanilla Wafers or Cats' Tongues 1 pound icing sugar, 1 pound white butter, 10 egg whites, 114 pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Rub butter and sugar light, cream in the egg whites, then add flavor and flour. Dress on lightly greased pans with bag and s mall lady finger tllhP in smfill finger shapes, set well apart, and bake in about 280 degrees Fahr. Tafrp off while warm bv running the palette knife under the cakes. Almond or Lemon Wafers — Almond Strips 2 pounds powdered sugar, l l / 2 pounds butter, 6 eggs, V 8 ounce ammonia, 2% pounds cake flour, flavor of grated rind of lemon or extract. Mix like cookies, set to cool to get firm. Work up cool. Roll out on dusted board or cloth. For wafers cut with snap cutter, set on pans and egg wash. For almond strips cut in 3-inch long, i/ 2 -inch wide bars, wash on table and sprinkle thickly with blanched and finely chopped almonds, set on pans and bake in 300 degrees, or medium oven. Almond Wafers — Rolled Wafers 1/2 pound almond paste, 6 egg whites, % pound powdered sugar, 4 ounces cake flour, 14 pint milk, a pinch of salt, pow- 140 CAKES FOR BAKERS dered cinnamon to season. Mix into a smooth paste, dress with stencil on lightly greased pans. Bend or roll in any shape. The patterns or stencils are made out of cardboard, and the inside of the stencil is cut into the desired shape with a sharp penknife so the edges come out smooth. The mixture is placed on the point of the bowl knife and spread about T \ inch in thickness. The wafers are taken off while hot and bent in leaf shape, cornucopias, etc. Walnut Wafers ' Y2 pound almond paste, V£ pound ground almonds, y% ground walnuts, 1^4 pounds sugar, a scant pint egg whites, y% teaspoonful cinnamon, y± teaspoon cloves and allspice, the grated rind of 2 lemons. Mix into a smooth-spreading paste on the fire until hot, dress in thin ovals on lightly greased pans dusted with flour or dress on sheets of wafer paper, and when baked and cool cut in bars or squares. Swedish Rolled Wafers — Cones The weight of 5 eggs in shell of powdered sugar, the same weight of soft flour; mix with the 5 eggs into a soft spreading paste, flavor with vanilla or with spices. Place a teaspoonful at a time on well greased baking pans, about 12 to 15 in a pan. Spread with back of a spoon very thin, in large ovals. Sprin- kle thickly with shredded cocoanut, and bake in a brisk heat. Bake only a few pans at a time. Draw to oven door and take off the wafers, while the helper rolls them quickly on sticks or forms them in cone shape. The baked wafers must be handled quickly, or they cannot be rolled. They may be baked without the cocoanut, rolled quickly on cone shaped sticks, and when cold the cones may be iced with a boiled chocolate icing or covered with thin fondant and filled with meringue, whipped cream or ice cream, as desired. Ice Cream Sandwich Wafers — Cream Wafers No.. 1 — 1 pound cake flour, 14 ounces sugar, 4 eggs, 4 ounces melted butter, % ounce ammonia. Dissolve ammonia in a little milk, sift sugar and flour together, mix with the eggs and sufficient milk into a thin batter, beating in the 141 CAKES FOR BAKERS melted butter. Bake in wafer irons, which should be well greased. Ice Cream Cone Wafers No. 2 — 2 pounds cake flour, i/ 2 pound rice flour, 1*4 pounds sugar, 4 to 5 eggs, milk sufficient to make a smooth batter. Mix like sandwich wafers, bake in cone irons, and roll on pointed stick while hot. Dietetic Bran Wafers Set 1 pint of water to boil, and when boiling pour over 2 pounds of bran, add 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening and let cool; then work in *4 ounce soda, V2 ounce powdered am- monia and 1 pound soft flour. Roll out thin and cut with wafer cutter. Bake in a cool oven until very crisp. Honey Wafers 1/2 pound sugar, V2 pound butter, 1 pint of honey, 1 pound of soft flour, flavor of mace and lemon. Drop out on lightly greased pans with bag and plain tube size of 25-cent piece, flatten and bake in cool oven. Rolled Brandy Wafers, or Snaps, or Butter Scotch 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint molasses, lemon rind, 1 pound cake flour. Mix all together, place on greased pans far enough apart, bake in cool oven, roll while hot. These small cakes must be handled cool. After mixing set in ice box to stiffen, then roll into a string and cut in small pieces, set far apart on greased tins, flatten and bake as di- rected. Can be rolled on stick or bent over peel handle. SMALL HARD FANCY CAKES Chocolate Drops No. 1—3 pounds powdered sugar, i/ 2 pint egg whites, 6 ounces melted chocolate. Beat egg whites light and beat in the sugar, then set on slow fire or in hot water and beat up until warm, add the melted chocolate and mix well. No. 2— Boil 314 pounds sugar, i/ 2 pint' water, to 240 to 243 degrees. In the meantime beat up 1 pint of egg whites, and when stiff beat in about 8 ounces powdered sugar. Pour the 142 CAKES FOR BAKERS boiling sugar slowly into the egg whites and add 6 ounces melted chocolate. Mixtures should not be too stiff, so the drops flow to form a smooth top. Rose Drops — White Drops Use mixture No. 1 or No. 2 for these drops, omitting the chocolate, color pink, and flavor with rose extract. For white drops omit coloring and flavor with peppermint extract. Drop mixture while warm on lightly greased and dusted pans.^- Let dry, so a skin forms on top. Chocolate drops should dry about three hours ; the pink or white drops require less time to dry before baking. Bake in cool oven. These cakes may be made up in shape of drops, small fin- gers, scrolls or heart shapes, and may be decorated with vari- colored icings and used for Christmas tree confections. Vanilla Cream Drops, or Souffles Mix 20 yolks of eggs with about 3 pounds icing sugar and *4 ounce of ammonia to a smooth, thick paste; flavor with vanilla. More or less sugar may be required to make the paste stiff enough so it does not run too flat when dropped on lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag and small plain tube, make up in the same shapes as chocolate drops. These drops dry quickly and should be baked as soon as a thin skin is formed. The cakes bake up nicely a'nd retain their shape welL Can be decorated like chocolate drops. Patience Drops or Figures Beat 9 egg whites (V2 pint) light, add 1 pound powdered sugar, beat up again, and add 14 ounces cake flour ; flavor with vanilla. For chocolate Patience add a scant ounce of melted cocoa. Dress on greased and dusted pans in round drops the size of a 25 cent piece, or form in figures or scrolls; let dry from 6 to 8 hours, then bake in cool oven. Anise Drops or Fingers Beat together 1 pound powdered sugar and 8 eggs until it thickens the same as for sponge cake, add i/ 2 ounce anise seed, or flavor with a few drops anise oil, add some powdered ammo- 143 CAKES FOR BAKERS nia, as much as will lay on a dime, and mix with 1 pound soft flour. Drop on flour-dusted pans in drops or in small fingers, let dry about 6 hours or overnight, and bake in fairly good oven. Cinnamon Sticks — Half Moons 1/2 pound cake crumbs, l/ 2 pound flour, 6 ounces sugar, 2 eggs, Vi, ounce mixed spice, y s ounce ammonia. Mix with a little water into a stiff dough. Roll in strips, ice with a firm royal icing. Cut in strips or fingers, or in crescents, set on pan and let dry for 2 hours. Then bake to a nice color. Dominoes Mix 1 pound sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces flour, V2 ounce cin- namon, 6 eggs and V2 ounce ammonia into a smooth paste. Ice with a firm royal icing, cut in 2 1 / 2 -inch-wide strips, and cut the strips in 1-inch-wide fingers. Let dry on the pans and bake. When baked form in dominoes, making division and dots with chocolate. Cocoanut Drops IV2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1/2 pint eggs, IV2 pints milk, 2V2 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder. Mix like cakes, drop on greased and dusted pans. Sprinkle with cocoa- nut and sugar. Bake in 300 degrees. SPRINGERLE, CHRISTMAS CAKES No. 1 — 2 pounds powdered sugar, 9 eggs, 2i/ 2 pounds cake flour, 14 ounce ammonia, % ounce anise seed, or anise oil for flavor. No. 2 — 16 pounds sugar, 3V 2 to 3%, quarts eggs, 20 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces ammonia, anise oil. Mixture makes 100 dozen cakes. Mix sugar and eggs and beat light in cake machine, then add flavor and ammonia, then flour. Mix to a smooth dough. Roll dough out 14 inch thick and run over the springerle roller, or cut in pieces and press out in the dusted forms. Cut in squares with sharp knife and set on lightly greased and dusted pans. Let dry 5 to 6 hours and bake in cool oven. 144 CAKES FOR BAKERS Almond Souffles Make a soft macaroon paste with 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound powdered sugar and a scant y% pint egg whites, then work in sufficient icing sugar to make a stiff paste. Flavor with vanilla. Roll out y 8 inch thick on marble slab, dusting the slab with sugar. Cut out in small stars, rings, hearts, etc., and cut, with a very small cutter, a center out of each. Set on dusted pans, let just dry lightly, then bake in cool oven. These small cakes make nice Christmas confections and may be iced, dipped in colored sugar, etc. The cakes rise well in baking. Rose Souffles, Chocolate Souffles Mix 5 beaten egg whites with sufficient icing sugar into a smooth rolling paste, color pink, flavor rose, or add some melted chocolate or chocolate color. Handle like almond souffles and decorate when baked. HONEY CAKES Honey doughs improve with age and are best if made some time before they are used. The aging of the dough is said to improve the acidity, and make the doughs rich and mellow during the ripening period, thus making a better eating cake than fresh-made doughs. Honey doughs are made in many qualities, from pure honey, or part molasses and honey, other syrups are used with sugar and more or less water may be added before boiling. The flguj^hould be a s gft winter wheat flour, and in some honey doughs part rye flour and part soft winter wheat flour are used to make short, mellow dough. In Europe potash and ammonia or soda and alum are used for these doughs, but ba king soda may be used with e gual results in place of potash. A standing rule is used for making honey doughs: Even weights of flour and honey or molasses are used, more flour in proportion to water added. The honfiK« i6--Jieated until it ris es tO-a Jboil: this is checked by adding a little cold water. The syrup is taken off the fire, and with skimmer any impuri- ties which have risen taken off, or it is strained through a fine sieve into bowl or trough. When cooled down to blood 145 CAKES FOR BAKERS heat, or about 98 degrees Fahr., sufficient flour is added to make a medium firm dough. Honey Dough Both honey and molasses vary in their density or sugar content, therefore some doughs bake up richer and act differ- ently than others. In large factories the different doughs are tried out with soda and ammonia a couple days after they are made, to ascertain the amount of leaven required. When making smaller batches it is always best to bake a sample to be certain of results. If the cakes are too light work more stock dough, containing no leaven, into the batch, if too close grained and heavy, increase the soda or ammonia slightly. To 55 pounds honey brought to boil add 40 pounds rye flour, 15 pounds winter wheat flour and mix. Take to 50 pounds of this dough 4 ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia, 8 ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce ground cardamom, 1 ounce nutmeg, l /2 ounce cloves, */2 ounce allspice. Make up in cakes or pep- pernuts. Standard Spice Mixture for Honey Cakes Mix together 10 parts high grade cinnamon, 5 parts all- spice, 3 parts cloves, 3 parts mace, 2 parts cardamom, have all finely ground, and keep in closed jar ready for use. Artificial Honey, Invert Sugar Honey Dissolve 45 pounds corn sugar, or 45 pounds invert sugar, in 11 quarts (22 pounds) water, stir and let come to a boil, add 3 ounces of dissolved tartaric acid, mix and let boil up again, then let cool and use. Honey Stock Dough No. 1— To 50 pounds honey brought to a boil and cooled to blood heat add 50 pounds soft wheat flour, and make into smooth dough as directed. Let rest, well covered, in cool place for about 24 hours before using. For 25 pounds of this dough take 5 ounces of the spice mixture given, add 2 ounces soda, 1 ounce ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. Work this in the dough with dough brake roller to incorporate the leaven and spices. 146 CAKES FOR BAKERS Honey Dough with Brown Sugar No. 2 — Dissolve 6 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water, let boil up, add !/2 ounce cream of tartar and let boil to 220 degrees, or thread (see sugar boiling degrees). Then add 5 quarts honey and mix well, let cool, and add 20 to 22 pounds soft flour, making smooth dough. Stock Dough with Artificial Honey No. 3 — Take half pure honey, half artificial honey, or half molasses, half artificial honey, or the plain artificial honey without any addition, let come to boil, add 1 pint water for 5 pounds honey, stir and let cool. Then make a firm dough with sufficient soft wheat flour. A part of this dough may be used with some better grade of dough for figures and other small goods. Use leaven in the same proportion as in the regular stock doughs and bake sample as directed. Honey and Sugar Dough No. 4 — Dissolve 10 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water, let come to boil, and boil to 220 degrees. Add 10 pounds of honey, mix well, and let boil up together, strain and let cool to blood heat, then add 18 pounds cake flour to make a smooth dough. From the preceding stock doughs, which may be used singly or in combinations, such as half honey dough, half artificial honey dough or part sugar dough, quite a va- riety of cakes are made. About 1 ounce spice mixture is figured sufficient for 5 pounds of stock dough, with 2 ounces soda, 1 ounce ammonia, for 25 pounds stock dough for rais- ing. Thick honey cakes require a slight reduction in soda and ammonia, while for small cakes, such as figures and nuts, etc., a slight increase of ammonia is often permissible. Thick Honey Cake, Braunschweiger For 20 pounds stock dough take 3 ounces spice mixture, li^ ounce ground anise seed, 1 ounce soda, y% ounce ammonia. Mix this smooth with 3 eggs and work in. Bake sample. Roll dough out about % to l/ 2 inch thick, lay on greased and dusted pan, set in a i/2- mcn wood frame. Brush off flour and mark in small cakes about 2Vfcx4V6 inches, decorate each cake with blanched and split halves of almonds, one half in each corner, 147 CAKES FOR BAKERS four to form star in center. Bake in medium oven and brush over with a thin vanilla icing while warm; then cut on the marked places with a sharp knife. These cakes may be cut and baked singly on the pan and iced when baked. Swiss or French Honey Cake Take 5 pounds brown sugar dough, 10 pounds honey dough, 114 ounces soda, 1/4, ounce ammonia, 2*4 ounces spice mixture, l 1 /^ pounds finely chopped raw almonds, V2 pound citron, 1/2 pound orange peel finely cut, y% pound granulated sugar mixed smooth with 2 eggs. Work this well together. Roll out rather thin and cut in small oblongs to weigh about % ounce each. Bake on flour dusted pans and ice when cold. Nuremberg Lebkuchen Take 8 pounds honey stock dough, which contains the raising, add IV2 ounces spices, % pound dropped almonds, and work in 2 eggs. Roll out and cut in small cakes, 2x4 inches, 20 to the pound, and bake on flour-dusted pans in good heat so they do not dry out. Frost with vanilla. These are also made in 314-inch round cakes, decorated in the center with a star of blanched, split almonds, baked to a nice brown color, and iced with thin vanilla icing when cold. Fancy Nuremberg Leckerly No. 1 — 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound granulated sugar, 1 ounce flour, sufficient egg whites to make a smooth paste, flavor of grated lemon rind. No. 2 — 1 pound almond paste, 18 ounces sugar, 8 to 9 egg whites, a pinch of ground cinnamon, 2 ounces melted chocolate. Mix like a macaroon paste. No. 3 — Beat up 1 pound sugar with 11 eggs on a slow fire, same as for sponge cake. When it thickens add 4 ounces chopped almonds, 14 ounces cake flour, 1 ounce spice mixture, and a pinch of ammonia. After the three mixtures have been prepared cut wafer- paper in rounds of about 414 inches diameter, or in oblongs 2x4 or 2x3 inches. Spread the paste about y 3 inch to i/> inch in the center of the wafers, smooth off the sides with a wet knife. For mixture No. 1 put half of a blanched almond in 148 CAKES FOR BAKERS the center of each cake of one-half the mixture ; the other half decorate with a slice of citron. For No. 2, sprinkle top half of the cakes with fine granulated sugar, mixed with nuts, the other half with white or colored nonpareil sugar. For No. 3, let the cakes dry after spreading on the wafer, so a crust forms before baking. Now bake these cakes in a cool tem- perature about 280 degrees, to a nice brown color. Glace the cake with a transparent icing. Six of these cakes are packed in fancy round tins or in round fancy paper packages tied with fancy ribbon, and sold under various names. Elisen Lebkuchen Mix 1 pound ground raw almonds, 1 pound granulated sugar, 3 ounces finely chopped citron, 1 ounce flour, y% ounce cinnamon, a little ground cloves, the grated rind of one lemon, 11 egg whites, a little ammonia, to soft spreading paste ; dress on 3-inch round wafer papers, set on papered pans, and bake in 300 degrees. When baked and cold, ice one-third of mix- ture with chocolate, one-third with pink rose flavored icing, one with pale yellow lemon icing. Pack two of each kind in round fancy tins, holding six cakes. White Lebkuchen Warm 1% quarts milk and dissolve 5 pounds granulated sugar, let cool, then add y% pound lard, the grated rind of 2 lemons, and 4 ounces ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. Then work in about 10 pounds cake flour and mix smooth. This dough is used for figures, hearts and other kinds of small cakes. This mixture can be improved by adding blanched and finely chopped almonds and citron. Anise seed or oil is another favorite flavor for white cakes. Chocolate Honey Cake Take 10 ounces dissolved chocolate, 2 pounds sugar, 1 pint hot milk, and make a stiff dough, adding sufficient cake flour. Work this in 2 pounds honey dough with 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce ammonia, and 2 yolks. Bake a sample, roll out *4 incn sheets, cut in 3^x2 inch squares and bake in moderate oven on flour dusted pans. Frost with boiled chocolate icing. 149 CAKES FOR BAKERS Filled Honey Cakes To 10 pounds of honey dough or mixed dough add 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce ammonia, and work smooth with 3 yolks. Roll into y s inch sheet, cut in 4-inch-wide strips. Cover every other strip with filling given, and lay on the filling some citron cut in long thin slices. Bake in slow heat. Ice strips on both sides and sprinkle with nonpareil sugar, then cut in 2 14-inch wide slices or cuts. Pack side by side in fancy wrapper. Filling for H6ney Cake Mix 1 pound almond paste, 4 ounces bitter almond, 12 ounces sweet almond, finely ground with water to a smooth paste. Work in 1 pound currant jelly or jam, 2% pounds sugar, 1 pound ground sultanas, flavor with a little cinnamon and the grated rind of lemon, add sufficient water to make smooth spreading paste. Use as directed. Macaroon Honey Cake Roll 12 pounds honey dough containing the raisins, and 1 pound ground almonds, into % inch thick sheet. Cut in 4- inch wide strips, cover each strip with a soft macaroon paste, such as is used for plain macaroons.' Cut in small cakes and set on greased and dusted pans. Bake in 300 degrees. These cakes may be iced with almond flavored icing or left plain. Pflastersteine — Cobblestones These cakes are usually made lighter by adding more rais- ing. For 20 pounds honey dough or mixed dough take about 4 ounces spice mixture, 214 ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia, 3 eggs and work smooth. Bake a trial, then roll out in a long string and cut in small nuts. Put in sieve and dust with flour, shaking them well together. Scale in 4- to 6-ounce portions and fill in rings which are greased and dusted, and set on the prepared pans. Bake carefully. When cold brush off the flour and ice, using a stiff brush with white or pink icing. Cobblestones are also baked in large squares in wood frames, iced and cut in pieces. Peppernuts These may be made from the same doughs as used for honey cakes or cobblestones. Varieties may be made by add- 150 CAKES FOR BAKERS ing chopped nuts and citron. Roll dough out and cut with small round cutter, or roll in long strips and cut in even-sized pieces, then round by hand, set on greased pans, flatten, and bake in medium oven. When baked and cold, ice as follows : Boil 5 pounds granulated sugar, 1 quart water to a strong thread, put drops in bowl, and pour the syrup over the drops in a thin stream, stirring constantly until the sugar granulates and forms a white coating. Some bakers simply dampen the well-dried baked nuts with a syrup, then roll them in icing sugar. Other varieties are made from the white sugar dough mix- ture by baking small nuts, which when baked and well dried are covered like the other peppernuts with white or pink colored sugar, flavoring the white syrup with a little pepper- mint, the pink syrup with rose, strawberry or raspberry flavor. Small Mixtures for Peppernuts No. 1 — Heat 6 pounds honey, 4 pounds N. 0. molasses and 1 quart water to near boiling, let cool, add 3 ounces mixed spice, about 14 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces soda, l 1 /^ ounces ammonia. Bake sample and make up as directed. No. 2 — Take 1 gallon molasses, let come to near boil, and strain in bowl; let cool and add l*/2 pounds brown sugar, % pound lard, 4 ounces mixed spice, or 2 ounces spices and 2 ounces ground anise seeds, 3 ounces soda, ^4 ounce ammonia, and sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Bake sample and make up as directed. Honey Dough for Figures Mix together 5 pints honey, 2y 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 quart milk, heat to near boiling, put in bowl, add %, pound lard, 3 ounces mixed spices, a few drops anise oil or 1 ounce ground anise seed. Let cool. Dissolve 1 ounce soda and 1 ounce ammonia, and add to mixture with about 10 pounds cake flour. Use this the next day, for figures, hearts and small cakes of any kind. 151 IX. MACHINE-MADE COOKIES Many of the ordinary cookie mixtures may be adapted to be made by machine, but it requires good judgment to accom- plish this. A mixture may work well on one machine, but not on the other. Some flours work tougher than others, and a tough mixture may not work as good as a shorter mixture. The chemicals, especially ammonia, should be well dissolved. The average sweet biscuit or cookie mixture should never be overmixed. Overmixing toughens the mixture, especially when using a flour of good absorption. A good soft winter wheat flour works most satisfactorily. Many goods are im- proved if the dough is given time to shorten, and rest for some hours. Some mixtures work stiff er in cold weather than in warm weather, and may accordingly require more or less flour or liquid. It is well to bake a sample before running off the whole batch, to see how it works in the machine and in baking. Sugar Cookies, or Light Cookies No. 1 — 36 pounds sugar, 17 pounds compound, 2 quarts eggs, 8 quarts milk, 3 ounces soda, 12 ounces ammonia, 60 pounds soft winter wheat flour, vanilla flavor. No. 2 — 16 pounds sugar, 10 pounds corn syrup, 12 pounds compound, 1% gallons milk, l*/2 pints whole eggs, IY2 pints yolks, vanilla flavor, ^ pound ammonia, % pound soda. Mix sugar and shortening, add eggs, milk with ammonia, then flavor and flour. Mix rather soft. Run on depositing machine with 21/2-inch round die. Before baking wash with sweetened milk wash or egg wash, or dip in sugar. Bake in medium hot oven, or 375 degrees. Syrup Crumb Cookies Eight pounds C sugar, 5 pounds compound, 2 quarts corn syrup, 2 quarts molasses, 3 quarts water, 12 pounds cake crumbs, 4 ounces mixed spices, 1 quart eggs, .20 to 22 pounds 152 CAKES FOR BAKERS flour. Sift soda in flour. Mix as usual. Drop with large die, dip in sugar and bake in a cool oven. Scotch Cookies or Butterscotch Thirty-two pounds granulated sugar, 16 pounds compound, 1 quart eggs, 2 quarts sugar honey (or pure honey), 2 quarts molasses, 14 ounces soda, 7 quarts milk, about 48 pounds flour. Flavor of mace and cinnamon. Mix as usual, drop with 2-inch die, dip with cloth soaked in syrup, or dip in coarse sugar. Bake in medium oven. Coffee Cookies Seven and one-half pounds C sugar, 4V& pounds compound, 2Y2 quarts honey, */2 pint yolks, 2!/2 quarts molasses, 6 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 3 ounces ginger, lemon oil, 25 pounds soft flour, a little water, 1 ounce cinnamon. Sift sugar and cream with compound, add spices, honey and molasses, add lemon flavor and beat in the eggs, then the 'flour. Make a smooth dough, adding a little water if required. Run with 2-inch die. Bake in medium heat. • Fruit Cookies Fifteen pounds sugar, 7 pounds compound, 2 ounces salt, 3 pints eggs, 4 quarts milk, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces ammonia, lemon flavor, about 25 pounds soft winter wheat flour. Mix like sugar cookies. Drop with 2-inch die on pans, sprinkle with small raisins or currants. Honey Jumbles Twenty pounds flour, 5 quarts honey, l 1 /^ pounds sugar, 3!/2 pounds lard, 1 quart eggs, 1 pint water, 6 ounces soda, 6 ounces cinnamon, 2 ounces cloves, 1 ounce mace. Warm honey to about 120 degrees, let cool and add sugar, lard and eggs creamed together; add soda dissolved in water, then add flour, and make a smooth dough. Let stand for 3 to 6 hours, then run on machine with small jumble die. Bake in medium oven. Cocoanut Macaroons with Almond Paste Twelve pounds macaroon cocoanut, 6 pounds almond paste, I 15 pounds sugar — half powdered, half granulated — 3 quarts ' 153 CAKES FOR BAKERS egg whites, 3 pounds corn flour, IV2 pounds wheat flour. Work almond paste smooth with 1 quart egg whites, beat the other 2 quarts light, beat in 2 pounds sugar, and work into the almond paste, then mix in the balance of the sugar and the cocoanut; then add flour. Do not toughen mixture, just mix clear. Drop with 1-inch die on flour-dusted pans. If mixture is too stiff, add a little syrup. Flatten tops with wet cloth, and bake in about 300 to 325 degrees Fahr. Oriental Cocoanut Drops Rub smooth 6 pounds C sugar, 2 quarts molasses, 3% pounds soft lard, add 2 ounces ginger and mace, 3 pints water, vanilla flavor, 2V2 ounces soda, ^ ounce ammonia dissolved in the water; then add 3*/2 pounds macaroon cocoanut mixed with about 12 pounds cake flour, mix clear, and drop on pans with 1-inch die; dip pans onto coarse cocoanut. Bake in moderate oven. Honey Cakes, Iced No. 1 — iy% pounds fine granulated sugar, 21/2 pounds lard, 31/2 gallons honey, 3 pints water, 14 ounces soda, 3 ounces ammonia, 3 ounces salt, lemon oil and mace, 48 pounds flour. Mix sugar, softened lard and honey, add lemon, soda and ammonia, also salt dissolved in water. Mix in the evening and run off in the morning, giving it a mixing before running it off on the machine. Use a plain round die, and bake with a little steam. Ice when baked. No. 2 — 20 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds compound, 6 quarts honey, 12 ounces soda dissolved in 1 quart water, 3 ounces salt, 46 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces honey cake spices. Use plain round die. Bake in moderate oven with a little steam. Spiced Oatmeals Twelve pounds brown sugar, 9 pounds lard, 3 ounces salt, 3 quarts molasses, 8 quarts milk or buttermilk, 5 ounces soda, 6 ounees cream of tartar, 1 ounce cloves, 1 ounce cinnamon, 12 pounds short oatmeal, 24 pounds cake flour. Mix like other cookies, drop on pans, wash with milk or dip in granu- lated sugar on the pans. 154 CAKES FOR BAKERS Mixed Jumbles Ten pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds lard, 3 pints eggs, 2^ ounces ammonia, 2 ounces soda, 4 quarts milk, about 24 pounds soft flour, flavor of vanilla. Cream sugar, butter and lard, add eggs by degrees, then flavor and milk with soda and ammonia dissolved in it. Then add the flour and just mix clear. Run on pans as usual, with jumble die, dip one-third of the jumbles in coarse cocoanut mixed with sugar, some in colored sugar, or in nonpariel sugar, roasted and chopped peanuts, to make a variety. Molasses or Spice Jumbles Six pounds granulated sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 4!/£ quarts molasses, l 1 /^ pints water, 8 ounces soda, 5 ounces ginger, 1 ounce allspice, about 24 pounds soft winter wheat flour. Mix sugar and lard, add spices and molasses and salt dissolved in water. Sift soda thoroughly in the flour. Make a smooth dough. Run with jumble die, and dip on pans in granulated sugar; bake in medium heat. Butter Jumbles Nine pounds fine granulated sugar, 21/2 pounds butter, 4 pounds compound, 1 pint honey, 1 ounce soda, IV2 ounces ammonia, 4 quarts milk, vanilla, or lemon flavor, 25 pounds soft flour. Cream sugar and shortening, add honey and flavor, then the milk with ammonia well dissolved. Sift soda in the flour and mix smooth. Bake in about 340 degrees Fahr. with a little steam. Lemon Cookies Twenty-four pounds granulated sugar, 8 pounds shorten- ing, 4 quarts eggs, 8 ounces ammonia, 2 quarts milk, 36 pounds cake flour, lemon flavor. Ginger Cookies or Snaps Twelve pounds granulated sugar, 6 pounds lard, 1 gallon molasses, 1 gallon water, 3 ounces ginger, 1 ounce cinnamon, 8 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 32 pounds soft flour. Mix like other cookies, having mixture soft enough to pass through wire cut drop machine. Use more or less milk, 155 CAKES FOR BAKERS according to strength of flour used. This holds good in using any other cookie mixture to use with machine; the mixtures must be regulated to suit the flour and machine. Sugarless Cookies, Using Corn Syrup Ten quarts Corn syrup, 10 pounds shortening, 2 quarts yolks, 8 quarts milk, 4 ounces soda, 48 pounds flour, 32 ounces baking powder, lemon flavor and salt. Sugarless Icing Boil 6 pounds glucose and 2 pounds honey or corn syrup with the juice of 2 lemons. Boil to 240 degrees Fahr. In the meantime beat up 1 quart egg whites. When stiff pour the hot boiled syrup slowly into egg whites and keep on beat- ing, medium speed, until nearly cold. Any flavor and color may be added. Icing is best used when freshly made. It may be used like a meringue for pies or for a filling. Flavors such as maple, chocolate, nuts and orange may be added. A .nice co mbinati on filling is made by adding chopped seeded j*aisins,- nuts, ancTgrated 6range~rind. Eggless Cake Mixtures Seven and one-half pounds granulated sugar, 6*4 pounds glucose, 5 pounds compound, 2y 2 ounces salt, 9 quarts milk, 15 pounds cake flour, 5 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds rice flour or corn flour, 22 to 24 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace, vanilla or lemon. For yellow mixture add 1 ounce egg color in milk, for white mixture i/ 2 ounce pure cream of tartar, beaten in with the sugar and glucose. Mix as usual, regulating mixture with more or less milk. Use less milk if adding fruit. 156 X. SMALL FANCY CAKES SMALL CAKE FANCIES OFTEN CLASSED AS FRENCH PASTRIES Bouchee Macedoine Sponge drops are filled with creams or jams and iced Macedoine fashion, half the top dipped in chocolate, the other side finished part white, part pink, with' a silver dragee in center. Bouchee Cerises — Bombes Cerises Sponge drops filled with jam and one whole maraschino cherry, covered entirely with cherry-flavored and colored fon- dant. Bouchee Chocolate — Bombe Chocolate A sponge drop filled with nut cream, covered with meringue shell of same size, covered with chocolate sprinkled with a few browned chopped almonds. Chocolate Bonne Bouchee Two large round or oval macaroons put together with jam, masked with chocolate, and sprinkled with browned almonds. Bouchee Citron — Bouchee de Oranges Sponge drops filled with lemon jelly or jam or orange jam, dipped in lemon or orange colored and flavored icing; sides masked with cocoanut, center decorated with white or yellow star of cream or with cherries and angelica. Othellos and Desdemonas Round sponge drops about 2 inches in diameter, baked and hollowed out, filled with whipped cream or rich pastry cream. Mask with apricot jam. Dip in chocolate for, Othellos, in pink and white for Desdemonas. 157 CAKES FOR BAKERS Gateaux Cerises (Cherry Cakes) Bake small sponge cakes in flat round patty tins, well greased and dusted with flour. When baked remove a small piece from center of top, fill cavity with cherry preserve, cover sides with jam, and roll in short cocoanut. Ice top white, and place half a candied cherry in center. Madelines Bake a light butter sponge or poundcake mixture in small round tins, or in timbale molds. These may be masked with jam or butter cream and rolled in chopped or browned almonds or filberts, finished with a dot of icing in center, or left plain, simply icing top and placing half a cherry in center. Batons Amandes (Almond Bars — Almond Fingers) Cut from Genoise or poundcakes 2 to 3-inch strips y<% inch thick. Cover with a mixture of paste made of 1/2 pound almond paste, 1/4, pound sugar and '5 yolks, roll the covered cakes in blanched and chopped almonds, place in the oven and bake to a nice brown color. "Demi-Lunes Amandes" — Crescents, Half Moons Cut crescents from any good solid cake sheet, or bake crescents of Alliance paste. Cover with the same paste as for Batons, sprinkle with chopped almonds and bake to a nice brown. Almond Crescents Make a filling of i/ 2 pound almond paste, 1/0 pound browned almonds, i/ 2 pound crushed macaroons or part cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 14 egg whites, flavor of cinnamon and grated rind of lemon. Roll puff paste y 8 -inch thick, and cut in triangles, one side measuring about 5 inches, the others 4 inches. Wash with water and put a strip of the filling cm the broadest side, about the thickness of a pencil. Then roll together like Vienna crescents, egg wash, and bake in medium oven. These crescents may be finished in various ways or left plain. Cover with vanilla flavored icing and sprinkle with nuts, or cover with hot apricot jam or currant jelly and sprinkle with crushed sugar and nuts, or glaze while hot with 158 CAKES FOR BAKERS a syrup and leave plain. By using a firm fruit jam in the place of almond filling, crescents or demi-lune aux fruits or aux apricots, etc., may be produced. Almond Strips No. 1 — Take good short paste, roll out y 8 -inch thick, wash with egg, cover with chopped almonds, cut in strips about 3x114, inches, and bake to a nice color. No. 2 — Make a mixture of half almond paste", half chopped almonds, as for macaroons. Spread this paste on strips of wafer paper 3 inches wide, sprinkle with chopped almonds, cut in 1 ^-inch-wide strips, set on pans, let dry a little and bake in about 280 degrees. These strips may be made in crescents, by setting the strips on half round bent tins, and bake/ Wafer Paper Used for Baking Wafer paper is an eatable wafer made up in sheets, which may be bought from bakers' supply firms, and should not be confused with other paper. The wafer paper is made like the hand-rolled ice cream cones baked in irons. A similar wafer is used for ice cream wafers or Nabiscos and ice cream sandwiches. Panier Chantilly, Cream Baskets Bonne Bouchee a la Creme — Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate Bake plain cheese filling in oval crimped tins. When baked and cold cut off the top of center. Cut this in halves. Place two rows of whipped cream on each side for panier Chantilly, pastry cream or butter cream for cream baskets, then place the cut top to form two lids on the cream, allowing the cream to show as in a half open basket. Use a strip of angelica to_ frmn n VianHIp , For bonne bouchee au chocolate, mask the round baked tart with apricot jelly, then cover with chocolate and decorate with nuts. Panier en Genoise Cut oval shapes from any good solid cake mixture baked about 1 inch to 1^2 inches thick. The pieces may be filled or left plain. Cut off a thin slice of the top. Mask sides with 159 CAKES FOR BAKERS currant jelly, run a row of butter cream or whipped cream on top on each side, then cut top in two halves and replace on the cream to form two lids, allowing the cream to show between. Use a strip of citron or angelica to form the handle. Cover sides with short cocoanut. Mocha Slices Cut strips of 1-inch-thick sheets about 3 inches wide, cut and fill with mocha cream, cover with coffee flavored icing. Run a strip of red jelly on each side and two white strips on each side of jelly strip. Cut in 2-inch slices, decorate each slice with a scroll of butter cream, with a dragee in center. FANCY SLICES AND STRIPS Roll out and cut strips of short paste 4 inches wide, and as long as the baking pan. Set on pans and turn over the edge of each strip, crimp up to form a border and partly bake. When baked put a strip of jam along the center and fill with any of the following mixtures : Almond Slices Take y% pound almond paste, % pound sugar, 6 egg whites, a pinch of cinnamon ; mix and stir over the fire and let come to a boil. Take off the fire at once and fill in the partly baked strips. Bake in good heat and cut in slices while warm. Chocolate Slices Beat 6 egg whites, add 1 pound sugar, and stir in 6 ounces of ground almonds; mix and add a little melted chocolate, let come to a boil, bake and finish the same as above. Cocoanut Slices Take l/ 2 pound short cocoanut, % pound sugar, 6 egg whites, stir 1 on fire, fill strips, and bake same as almond slices. Nut Slices Take other ground nut meats and mix in the same pro- portion already given. For a lower-priced covering, some cake crumbs may be added to .the nut mixtures. 160 CAKES FOR BAKERS Cocoanut or Almond Fingers Take 1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound almond paste, *4 pound cocoanut or chopped almonds, 2 to 4 ounces cake crumbs, about y s pint egg whites. Mix sugar, softened almond paste, crumbs and nuts with egg whites to a soft paste; a little water may be added, according to dryness of crumbs, to make it like a macaroon paste. Heat and stir on the fire to soften, but not boil. Roll out a sheet of tart paste or short paste to form a square as wide as baking tin, with a board on the open side. Spread the paste with jam or jelly, then pour the nut paste over the jam, level it, sprinkle with some sliced almonds or cocoanut, and bake in a medium oven. When cold, divide in 3-inch-wide strips and cut the strips into fingers. The preceding nut pastes may be used by adding chocolate, making into finger shapes. Strips and Slices, Fancy Macaroon Paste From rolled out short paste cut 2^-inch-wide strips. Set on pans, and with bag and star tube run a strip of fancy macaroon paste on each side, and one strip along the center of the short paste. Let stand and dry for half hour or more, then bake. When baked run a pink or white icing in one space between the strips, and a strip of chocolate on the other side of the center strip of almond paste, then cut in fingers while warm. Another way is to run one strip of macaroon paste on each side, fill center space with jam, and bake. Then cover jam with icing, which may be put on in strips of two or three colors. Mocha Slices — Chantilly Cream Slice Bake 2 1 /^-inch-wide strips of short paste. Put two strips together with good jam or jelly. With bag and star tube put on a border and center strip of butter cream, covering the baked strip entirely. The center strip may be colored pink, side strips left white; other flavors and colors make quite a variety. Whipped cream or a combination of both creams may be used. Cut in slices with knife dipped in hot water to produce a clean cut. 161 CAKES FOR BAKERS Meringue and Marshmallow Slices Bake 3-inch-wide strips of short paste, or take baked sheets of sponge cake or jelly-roll mixture and cut in 3-inch strips. Cover with good jam. Cover this with a standard cold meringue, raising. the meringue high in center to form a triangle cut. Dust with powdered sugar, set on double pans or board, and brown nicely. The slices may be iced in pink or chocolate and cut with a knife dipped in hot water, same as cream slices. The meringue may be put on with bag and plain tube, first three strips on bottom, then two strips on top of the three, then one strip on the top, pyramid fashion. Other meringue slices may be made of puff paste, baking strips with a border. Put jelly on strip, then cover with various flavored pastry creams, or lemon or orange cream, and cover this with strips of meringue — a soft meringue. Brown nicely, then cut in slices. In this manner many nice pastry cuts may be made, with fresh berries or other fresh fruit in season. These cuts are good sellers in the lunchrooms. Marshmallow may be used in the place of meringue, letting the marshmallow set and dry before cutting in slices without baking, sprinkling the marsh- mallow with finely chopped browned nuts, or icing the slices with chocolate or fondant. Slices may be decorated with jelly or with half a cherry placed on each cut. CREAM PUFFS, ECLAIRS, CHOUX OR CREAM BUNS Cream puffs and eclairs are made of the pastes given in chapter on pastes. The name "Cream Buns" is used largely by British con- fectioners for cakes made from the same paste, also from a cream puff paste containing sugar. The cream buns are cov- ered with a special tin made for baking cream buns; this gives a glossy appearance, and cakes containing sugar do not brown too quickly under cover. "Pate au Choux" is the French name for cream puff paste, which is often made with sugar, the same as St. Honore paste or French fried cake paste. Cream Buns and "Choux" may be made from the following paste: Take 1*4 pints water, 12 ounces butter and lard, 3 ounces sugar, 12 eggs or more to 162 CAKES FOR BAKERS make a smooth paste. Set water, sugar and fats to boil. When boiling add the sifted flour, and mix to a smooth paste; put in bowl and gradually add the eggs in small portions, mixing well between each addition. Mix to a smooth paste, add a pinch, of powdered ammonia. Drop out in small drops, size of a walnut, or set on pans in small 3-inch fingers for eclairs. Cream Puffs Fill the baked puffs with plain pastry cream and set on pans. Sift a little icing sugar over the filled up puffs, and they are ready for sale. Cream Puffs with Whipped Cream Cut a slice off the top entirely and fill with the whipped cream, using a spoon, replace top so as to let the cream show on the sides ; dust with icing sugar. Cream Buns Fill the same as other cream puffs, with pastry cream, whipped cream, or meringue, and dust with icing sugar. Fancy cream buns are made rather small and iced with variously colored and flavored fondant, sprinkled with some browned chopped almonds. Eclairs, Eclair Farcis, Choux Farcis Eclairs are made in various sizes in finger shape, measur- ing from 2 to 4 inches. They are usually filled with pastry cream and, after filling, iced with chocolate, caramel, coffee, or other icings. In the French pastry shops very small eclairs, about 2 inches long, filled and iced, are named "petit eclair farcis," which means, in English, little filled eclairs. Small cream puffs which are filled with various creams or jellies and then dipped in sugar cooked to the caramel degree, or cov- ered with various icings, or brushed with hot jelly or syrup and sprinkled with chopped nuts, are given various names, such as "choux farcis au caramel," or "au chocolate," etc., to denote the filling or icing or flavor. These small eclairs and puffs are covered entirely, like other dipped cakes, and set on wires to drip and dry. Other varieties of these cakes are made of cream puff 163 CAKES FOR BAKERS paste dressed on the pans in the shape of bananas, with pointed ends, filled and iced in pale yellow, with banana- flavored icing. From a firm paste, using bag and star tube, fingers and scrolls in S and C shape are set on pans, let dry a little to hold the shapes, then bake. Fill and ice with trans- parent fondant or other icings and decorate to suit the fancy. MACAROONS AND ALMOND PASTE GOODS The ready-made almond paste has come into almost uni- versal us^e in making macaroons and many other fancy cakes. It is made from pure almonds and is of a quality which always gives satisfaction. The paste is used often with an addition of other nut meats. Almonds are blanched, sliced or chopped fine; filberts or hazelnuts are usually roasted and the brown skin removed; other nut meats, such as walnuts, pecans, etc., are simply ground or chopped and mixed with the paste. To Blanch Almonds Cover the dry raw almonds with boiling water. Let stand in the water for a few minutes, until the brown skin easily slips off when pressed between the fingers, then pour off the hot water and cover with cold water. Pistachio nuts may be blanched the same as almonds. The blanched almonds may be dried on a pan covered with a cloth. If wanted sliced or ch opped fine the b lanched almonds are best us ed w hile softT before drying 1 7~ To~lnake~^lnacaroon ' paste from freshly Blanched almonds, the almonds are rubbed' to a smooth paste in a mortar, and for each pound of almonds 2 pound s coarse powdered sugar and sufficient _ egg w hites are~addeoT!6 make a soft paste which can be dropped ouFwith bag and tube. (Fo'FotEeFmacaroon pastes, see chapter on Pastes.) Plain Macaroons Use the plain macaroon recipe given. Lay out on paper with bag and %-inch tube, drop out about the size of a quarter of a dollar. Macaroons are made in different sizes, depending on whether they are sold by weight or by the dozen. After dropping out, the points should be slightly pressed down with a wet cloth before baking. If macaroons 164 CAKES FOR BAKERS cannot be baked at once, care should be taken that no crust forms on them, because this would cause a coarse, uneven crack in baking. Bake macaroons in a temperature of from 280 to 300 degrees. Use thick pans and one thickness of paper, or double pans or double paper, so the bottom is well protected. Arrange your oven heat by means of door and damper. It is well to leave door and sometimes even the damper open until the macaroons have spread and show a nice crack ; then damper may be closed, also door if required, so the cakes bake to a nice light brown color, which takes about 18 to 20 minutes at the given temperature. Jelly Macaroons Make like plain macaroons and bake as usual. While warm from the oven make dent in center size of pencil, fill with jelly or jam, and put a drop of icing on top of jelly. Another method is to turn the macaroons over on granulated sugar, or' dust them with granulated sugar, shake off the surplus, then bake and fill. Lemon or Orange Macaroons Make the plain macaroon paste slightly firmer and add for each pound of almond paste the grated rind of two lemons or two oranges. Drop them out slightly larger than plain macaroons, turn over on granulated sugar, and bake. When cold remove from paper and ice bottom with lemon or orange flavored and colored icing, let dry, and decorate center of top with a dot of icing, using various colors. Chocolate Macaroons Take 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds 6 ounces sugar — half granulated, half powdered — 4 ounces chocolate, a scant pint of egg whites, a little powdered cinnamon. Melt the chocolate and add to worked-up mixture last. Regulate the stiffness of mixture, making it about the same consistency as plain macaroons. Dress on paper as usual and sprinkle with granulated sugar, or use white nonpareil sugar. Bake in about 280 to 300 degrees on double paper, or use double pans. Care must be taken in baking, because the dark color is deceiving, not to underbake or overbake. These macaroons 165 CAKES FOR BAKERS may be further decorated by making an impression in the top immediately after baking and filling the dent with icings in contrasting colors, placing, a silver dragee in the center. Macaroon Fingers These may be made from the plain macaroon paste and also from the chocolate macaroon paste, making these pastes slightly firmer with a little flour, or adding a few cake crumbs ; or chopped browned almonds may be added. The fingers are dressed on paper the size of ladyfingers, turned over in a mixture of chopped or sliced almonds and coarse sugar, then baked to a nice color. Another way is to take 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound ground almonds, 1 pound cake crumbs, 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar. Work this into a paste with yolks of eggs. This paste is rolled into strips as long as the pan, flattened and washed with egg, sprinkled with chopped almonds and baked, then cut on the pans in neat fingers. Dutch Macaroons Make a soft macaroon mixture, using 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, flavor of cardamom. Lay out with plain tube in round or oval shape and let stand until a crust forms, which takes from 6 to 12 hours. Cut along the center with a sharp thin knife dipped in water, and bake in medium heat. These may be put together with a little firm jam or sold plain. Fancy Macaroons Many shapes may be made from. the plain macaroon paste and also from the special fancy macaroon paste given. With the plain macaroon paste made slightly firmer all kinds of small fancy designs may be piped on papered pans ; the same may be done with the fancy macaroon paste. Different shapes, such as plain rounds, ovals, and dots, are set together in various shapes. These are baked and used for bases to pipe on the icings to suit the shape, using fondant or icings which dry quickly. For the fancy macaroons, which are dressed on paper with bag and star tube, the decorating is done with candied cherries cut in small pieces, angelica or citron cut in diamonds. Blanched and split almonds are also used. Many 166 CAKES FOR BAKERS patterns may be invented by the intelligent baker. For the fancy macaroons dressed on with star tube, it is best to put on the angelica, cherries or diamonds while the mixture is soft. Then let the macaroons stand and dry over night, before baking, in order to retain their shape. These macaroons are baked in a fairly good heat so they brown nicely, and when baked they are lightly brushed over with a gum wash or a simple syrup to give a nice gloss. Removing the deco- rated macaroons from the paper is done by dipping a bag in hot water ; lay this on the table or pan and set the paper with the cakes on top. The cakes will come off easily. SMALL FANCY CAKES OF MODELING PASTE Potatoes, Pears, Apples or Peaches Make a center of stale cake crumbs mixed with a little syrup or soft jelly, and form in the shape of the object to be made. Roll out some modeling marzipan and cut out with a large round cutter. Fold the paste around the centers, slightly forming it in the shape desired, and smooth out the foldings. For the potatoes form oval shapes, roll in pow- dered cocoa, and make the eyes with a small quill. For apples and pears form the center in the shape of the natural fruit, color the marzipan a pale yellow. The top may be made from a whole clove with the berry taken out, the stem of angelica. With a large leaf tube and green colored royal icing a leaf may be piped on the side. When molding the peaches, make a groove on one side as in the peach, then place a stem and leaf the same as for apples or pears. The cheeks of the fruit may be tinted with a wad of cotton dipped in powdered carmine, or by sprinkling on a few dots of red color. Colors should not be used too strong, which makes the cakes lose their appetizing appear- ance. A cake is to be eaten^and strongly contrasting colors should be avoided. I n high-grade marzipan goods the cake ce nter may be left~out and marzipan us ed entir ely. The cost may be re3uced"by addmg~gluc6se "tothe almond paste and working in as much sugar as it will take up. Easter eggs, large and small heart shapes for St. Valentine's day, and many other decorations, may be made of marzipan. Small fancy breads and rolls, twists and pretzels may be 167 CAKES FOR BAKERS shaped, set on boards, just colored in a hot oven, then glaced with a gum-wash. Forms for modeling the paste may be bought from the baker's supply firms. For cake decorating, marzipan or almond paste is preferable to gum paste, because it is good to eat, while gum paste is rather for display only. Cocoanut Macaroons No. 1 — 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 4V2 pounds sugar — half granulated, half powdered, about 2*4 pounds egg white or more, according to dryness of cocoanut. Mix this together in kettle on the fire and stir so it becomes clear and hot with- out boiling. Take off and let cool a little, then drop out with bag and plain tube. The mixture should not be too soft. Flatten tops with damp cloth and bake the same as almond macaroons. No. 2 — 2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 11/2 pounds powdered sugar, 8 ounces corn flour, 1 to 1*4 pints egg whites. Mix on fire like No. 1. Let cool and drop on greased and flour-dusted pans. Macaroons of Freshly Grated Cocoanut No. 3 — Take even weights of moist freshly grated cocoa- nut and granulated sugar, mix well together, then set on fire and stir without scorching until mixture is well heated. Take off the fire, let cool a little and mix with sufficient egg white to form a not too soft mixture, which can be dropped out with bag and plain tube on greased and dusted pans. Bake in about 300 degrees. Chocolate Cocoanut Macaroons Add sufficient chocolate to the hot mixture when taken off the fire, and add for each ounce chocolate 2 ounces more sugar and sufficient egg white to make the mixture of the proper consistency. Cocoanut Crescents, Half Moons Mix 3 pounds cocoanut, 5 pounds sugar, 1 quart egg whites, y% pound flour together, warm on the fire to make a smooth paste, let cool, then dress with bag and tube on pans and bake the same as macaroons. 168 CAKES FOR BAKERS Almond crescents may be made from a fairly stiff plain macaroon paste, dressed in crescent shape or horseshoe shape on paper, sprinkled with a few chopped almonds, then baked like macaroons. They may also be made with a base cut from plain short paste, set on lightly greased pans, the macaroon paste dressed on top of the short paste and baked. Fancy cakes of this kind may be dipped in fondant or iced. These are known in French pastry shops as "Demi-lune aux Amandes." Cocoanut Macaroon, Cold Mixture Beat 1 quart egg whites light, add about 4 ounces granu- lated sugar; then mix together 3% pounds sugar — half powdered, half granulated, 4 ounces flour, 4 ounces cornmeal and 3 to 3V^ pounds short cocoanut; mix with the egg whites. Dress on paper with bag and plain tube, flatten top lightly with wet cloth, then bake in 280 to 300 degrees, on papered tins. MERINGUES AND FANCY KISSES From the meringue paste given quite a line of very attrac- tive cakes can be made. They may be varied in flavor and color, made in combinations with nut meats, containing spices, chocolate or fruit flavors. One variety of kisses and shells are baked on wet boards, soaked in water and covered with paper. The boards are best made of non-resinous wood of a size so they may be soaked in water in the sink or other con- venient place. The boards should be about 2 inches thick. Other kinds of meringues may be dressed on lightly greased and flour-dusted pans or on papered tins. A proper heat for meringues and kisses should be about 240 degrees and the damper should be kept open without having too much draft. Cocoanut Kisses Dress the cold meringue paste, made with 3 pounds stand- ard powdered sugar (or half powdered sugar, half fine granulated sugar), with bag and large star tube in rings of about 2 inches diameter, on lightly greased and dusted pans. Sprinkle with long shredded cocoanut. Turn pan upside down to -remove the surplus cocoanut, then dry to a light brown. 169 CAKES FOR BAKERS Soft Cocoanut Kisses Dress small round or oval shapes on wet paper-covered boards, shake off surplus and dust with powdered sugar. Bake these to a very light brown color, then slide the shapes off the paper, and put two together. Set on papered pans. Jellied Cocoanut Meringue Make like the preceding kisses, cover with short cocoanut, set on papered boards. Dry to a very light color, then put together with a dot of good jelly in the center. Orange or Citron Meringue Flavor meringue with some finely chopped orange or citron peel, dress on wet papered boards with star tube in ovals or nut shape, cover with finely chopped walnuts ; put two together. Filbert Meringues Dress small round shapes on one board and the same num- ber of high cones on another board. Dust with cinnamon. Put both shapes together to represent the filbert. Almond or Pistachio Kisses Dress finger shapes on papered boards, sprinkle with sliced almonds or pistachios, let dry, and put two fingers together. Cocoanut and other nut meats may be used. Apples or Pears Dress round or pear shapes in two colors on the papered boards with bag and plain tube. This is done by placing a little pink colored meringue in one side of bag, and plain white on other side. Drop out in small globules, half round or half pear shape. A strip of angelica may be used to represent the stem ; a whole clove, from which the berry has been taken, the top. Colored sugar may be sprinkled on, and when dry the two shapes may be put together. Chocolate Meringue Color meringue with powdered cocoa, drop on greased and dusted pans in rounds, rings, fingers or scroll shapes, sprinkle with cocoanut or chopped almonds. 170 CAKES FOR BAKERS Other fancy shapes may be made of meringue, using a plain tube for bottom shape. Then use a small star tube and form a smaller shape in different color on top of the plain shapes. Mushrooms These are made in two pieces. Round flat bulbs may be run out on boards or on paper. On another sheet, with a smaller tube, pointed stems are run off and dried in cool oven. The tops may now be taken from the paper and the bottoms dusted with cocoa; then the points of the stems may be inserted in the bottom with a little meringue or other icing. Other combination cakes are made from sponge drops and meringue drops of the same size, put together with various fillings and icings. The meringue drops may be dressed on boards or on dusted pans, baked, "and kept on hand to use as required. Meringue Shells, Easter Eggs These shells are laid out on boards with bag and plain tube in the shape of the ordinary egg. With a little practice they may be laid out smooth, without any point. They are dusted with sugar and dried rather than baked, in a cool oven. When taken off the paper the soft center is scooped out with a small spoon and smoothed down, and the shells are dried a little more. Another plainer way is to bake them on plain paper and simply press in the bottom. The shells are put together, filled with whipped cream or meringue, or with preserves, decorated and iced in different colors. Meringue Baskets Dress up large shells same as for Easter eggs, bake and scoop out, let dry, turn upside down and put on four dots of royal icing or meringue to serve as feet; let dry, then make a fancy border with vari-colored icing - , and fill with whipped cream or ice cream, etc. The handle may be made of a strip of angelica, or handles may be made from royal icing, put on a half round waxed tin, left to dry, and put over the filling. 171 CAKES FOR BAKERS Animals and Figures This requires a little practice, but a large variety may be made by using two colors of paste in one bag, laying them out on paper or lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag and plain tube. Pigeons and roosters are made by starting to lay out the tail; form the body, and lastly draw up the head ; then put on the wings, feet and eyes. Swans and large birds are made on one side only, to lay flat on the pan ; others can be made to sit up straight. For some animals a foundation may be made, forming a flat bottom. Sprinkle this with green colored sugar, then with a plain tube the animal figure is put on, starting at the back part of the body in "S" shape. Next make the head ; put on ears, legs and tail, eyes, and dry in very slow heat. Floral Meringues These may be made by starting with a dot of rose-colored meringue on pan. Let dry lightly, then put on the petals with flat large rose tube, carving the petals around the raised dot, lifting them to give the appearance of an open rose. Dust them lightly with fine powdered sugar, and let dry care- fully. Other flowers are made in the same fashion. Large and Small Tart Cases of Meringue From the standard meringue a plain bottom with a high border is dressed on paper of the size required. With a star tube a fancy top of the same size is also dressed on another paper. The top may be made a fancy border and latticed, in any desired form, and dried in cool oven. These large or small shapes may be kept on hand. Before using put in a cool place, then fill with whipped cream, mocha cream, ice cream, or combinations of berries and cream. Two or more bottoms may be set together and decorated. Strawberry or Raspberry Meringue Tart Specialty Boil together 1 pint strawberry or raspberry juice and 2 pounds sugar, or use % pint water, colored and flavored with extract and citric acid. In the meantime beat up 16 egg whites and add a handful of icing sugar. When sugar is 172 CAKES FOR BAKERS boiled to strong thread, or 230 degrees, pour it slowly into the egg whites, beating constantly until the mixture cools. Fill ready-baked cases or small basket shapes of short paste partly with good strawberry or raspberry jam. Then place a pyramid of the meringue on top of the fruit. Dry lightly; then glace with fondant. Of course other meringue may be used for covering small tarts and cakes in similar manner. 173 XI. YEAST-RAISED DOUGHS AND PASTRY There is quite a range in the quality of the yeast-raised sweet doughs, which are made in various degrees of richness to suit the needs of the trade. All milk, or half water and half milk, may be used, with from 5 to 12 ounces of sugar and from 4 to 16 ounces of butter or butter and lard for each quart of liquid. Eggs should be of the best grades, from 2 to 5 eggs and more per quart. In low-priced goods eggs are left out, color often taking their place, but the eggs give the doughs a lightness which cannot be produced without them. These rich doughs require plenty of yeast to keep in the sweetness and make them perfect. Straight doughs and sponge doughs are both used with success, but to keep in the sweetness many bakers prefer a short quick sponge with plenty of yeast, followed by a short dough, to a long straight dough. Coffee-cake doughs are made rather soft, which method works best, and the time may be shortened or lengthened by using more or less yeast, to suit the conditions of the shop. It is best for these doughs to keep them at a warm temperature and maintain it through- out, during the time on the bench and when proving; chill- ing and cooling must be avoided. (Yeast-raised pastry doughs differ. They must be handled cool when rolling in the extra butter, and must be proved cool for the same reason). A short quick dough may be made by increasing the yeast, making a very soft batter sponge, using all of the liquid. This may be done as follows: For each quart of liquid take 4 to 5 ounces of yeast, and use only 1 pound of flour; set sponge at 90 to 95 degrees. The sponge will rise and drop in about 30 minutes. Add the creamed sugar, shortening, eggs, etc., and make a soft dough, adding the necessary flour, which should be warmed to maintain the temperature. Let dough rise and break, push down, and it is ready for use. A good 174 CAKES FOR BAKERS first patent flour, spring wheat or Kansas hard wheat, is preferred. If the bread flour is very hard and strong, from one-third to one-fourth of soft winter wheat flour may be used. Malt extract may be used to hasten fermentation and strengthen the yeast. Light brown sugar is preferred by some bakers, or half granulated and half brown sugar is used. STANDARD SWEET DOUGHS No. 1 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, or butter and lard (salt according to salti- ness of butter), 1 pint eggs or half yolks, half whole eggs, lemon extract or, better, the grated rind of 2 to 3 lemons, ^4 ounce mace, 4 to 8 ounces yeast. Flour as required to make a medium smooth dough. No. 2 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 2^ pounds sugar, 2y% pounds butter and lard, 5 eggs, flavor of lemon and mace, 4 to 5 ounces yeast. No. 3 — 1 gallon liquid, half and half, 2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 5 eggs or egg color, flavor of lemon and mace, 5 ounces yeast. No. 4 — 1 gallon water, 6 to 8 ounces dry milk, 2 to 2*/2 pounds sugar, 11/6 to 2 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 5 to 6 ounces yeast. The sweet doughs are also used for yeast-raised dough- nuts, jelly balls or Bismarcks, but a rather soft dough is best suited for fried goods. For straight doughs, dissolve the yeast separately; cream sugar, shortening, eggs and flavor; mix liquid and flour, add the dissolved yeast, add sugar and shortening, and mix dough thoroughly. Maintain a warm temperature, from 83 to 85 degrees Fahr., up to 90 degrees for a quick dough. Let dough come up full to the point of losing resistance, then let come half and take. For sponge doughs, use half or two-thirds of the liquid in the sponge ; a large sponge is preferred by many bakers. Set a soft sponge with two-thirds of the liquid, with 2 to 2i/ 2 pounds flour for each quart. Take sponge when it breaks, add the rest of the liquid at the proper temperature, then break up fine and add the creamed sugar and shortening. The creaming of sugar and shortening with eggs improves the 175 CAKES FOR BAKERS texture of the dough. Water may be used in the sponge, milk for doughing, and if using soft flour put the hard flour in the sponge, the soft flour for the dough. Let dough get ready to drop once, then punch down, let come half, and take. The ready doughs may be used for large and small coffee- cakes and for special buns and rolls* Or a part of the dough may be taken after the first rise ; sponge dough when mixed, and add more sugar, butter and eggs to make a very soft dough for form cake. SPECIAL COFFEE-CAKE DOUGHS Special doughs known as Vienna or French coffee-cake, or by the name of yeast-raised pastry, are made from stand- ard sweet doughs. The ready dough is set in a cool place to stiffen, and some cold but pliable butter is rolled into the cold dough and given two times three foldings — the same as for puff paste — and after a little rest it is worked up in various shapes. Danish and Swedish pastry dough, also French pastry dough, are yeast-raised pastry doughs made by a shorter method. A cool straight dough is made, same as the standard doughs given, but with the difference that by using a very large quantity of yeast the butter may be rolled in as soon as the dough is made, instead of setting a sponge or making a long-time straight dough, the method used for regular coffee-cake dough. Butter produces the best flavored goods, and it is advisable to use the best butter where the proper price may be asked. But many bakers use a mixture of butter and pastry butterine which works even better than butter alone, because it is more plastic. When butter is very soft, work from 2 to 4 ounces of flour into each pound of butter; this facilitates rolling. Take a tub of creamery butter and one tub of pastry butter- ine, put in dough mixer and mix together. This mixture is well adapted for rolled-in pastry and for regular puff paste. ROLLED-IN PASTRY DOUGH Take 6 pounds of ready coffee-cake dough made from any of the formulas given. Set to cool, or roll out and lay on dusted pan and set to cool. Roll this into a long square, three 176 CAKES FOR BAKERS times as long as wide, and divide from 1 to IV2 pounds of firm butter in small pieces over two-thirds of the dough. Fold in three, give a little rest, fold again in three, and it is ready to be worked up in a variety of shapes. Work dough up and prove in cool shop. The dough must be handled cool to prevent the butter from running out when working up and proving the goods. QUICKLY-MADE PASTRY DOUGHS Swedish Pastry Dough Make a cool dough with V2 gallon milk, 1/2 gallon water, \y ounce soda, 1 pint eggs, IV2 ounces salt, flavor of mace or vanilla, add 5 quarts buttermilk, 16 to 17 pounds flour sifted with 1/2 pound baking powder. Mix as usual and use for strips, crullers or round fried cakes. MACHINE DROPPED FRIED CAKES 6 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 1 quart yolks, 51/2 quarts milk, 3 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 20 pounds soft cako flour, 6 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce mace. Mix should 194 CAKES FOR BAKERS make 40 dozen. The mixture should be made from cold ingre- dients. Have the grease hot for frying as soon as the mixture is made. Do not set mixture near the hot stove and do not let the dough stand. Flour absorbing more than 6 quarts milk to 20 pounds flour is too strong. Egg whites are too binding, yolks are preferable. YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS AND JELLY BALLS Use the sweet dough recipes given. Roll out the ready dough, cut out with doughnut cutter. Set in cloth lined or dusted boxes or on screens, let double in size, and fry as usual. For jelly balls scale pieces 3!/2 to 3% pounds for divider, or make pieces weighing ll/ 2 to 1%, ounces, round up on bench, give a little proof, flatten and set in boxes or on screens, let double in size and fry slowly till done. When cold fill with jelly, using the cream puff pump or filler. When using no machine, put a little jelly in center of the flattened pieces on the bench, pinch dough up over the jelly and set to prove, then fry. These cakes are finished with a dot of icing when done. Vienna Fried Cake or Bismarcks Use a rich coffee-cake dough, roll out *4 inch thick, cut out rounds with plain cutter, fill half the pieces with good fruit jam, cover with other piece, flatten and cut again with same cutter. Prove and fry like jelly balls. Roll in cinnamon sugar or ice with vanilla icing. French Fried Cakes Use special paste given in chapter on pastes, made like the cream puff paste, or use mixture for cream buns. Mix- ture must be slightly firmer than for cream puffs. Run out with bag and large star tube in rings 2 inches in diameter on stiff sheets of greased paper. Turn over on paper in the hot grease, which should not be quite as hot as for plain fried cakes. The dakes come off the paper easily. Then turn cakes over and turn several times, to fry them very crisp. Instead of paper a white tin pan may be used, made with a square handle on "two sides, about 4 inches wide and high. The pan is turned bottom up to rest on the handle, the bottom is greased and dusted with flour, and the rings are dressed on 195 CAKES FOR BAKERS the bottom. To fry, the pan is turned over into the hot fat, holding it by the handles, the cakes drop off when immersed. This method expedites the frying. French fried cakes are frosted with vanilla icing when cold. FRIED SPRING WAFFLES No. 1 — Cream together y 2 pound sugar, y% pound butter, 6 eggs, flavor of mace or cinnamon, add about 1 pint or more milk and 2 pounds cake flour to make a smooth batter. No. 2 — Beat 7 egg whites stiff, mix 7 yolks, 2 ounces sugar, 1 pint milk, 114 pounds flour to a smooth batter, draw in the beaten egg whites, and add flavor. The irons should be put in the hot fat before dipping them in the cake batter. Dip the hot iron in the batter close to the edge, but not above, and put in the hot grease again, immers- ing entirely. Fry to a nice color. The waffles will come off easily when done by knocking on the iron. ROMAN CASES, TIMBALES OR FRIED CASES No. 1 — 1 pound flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 4 eggs, 1 pint milk, a pinch of salt. No. 2—1 pound soft flour, 4 eggs, 1 ounce sugar, 1 pint milk, salt. Mix into a smooth batter. Special irons are used for baking. These fried cases may be used in the place of patty shells, and without sugar for creamed vegetables, oys- ters, creamed chicken, and other meats ordinarily filled into patty shells. Storks' Nests These fried cakes are made in several ways. A special .basket shapejs made of wire, about 5 inches round and deep. Two of these baskets* are 'fastened together on one side with hinge, so they turn and open; two long handles are put on. The cake mixture is cut into thin ribbons, which are laid in one basket nest fashion, the other basket is turned over the strips, and the whole immersed in the hot fat. When partly fried it is turned out and the frying finished. The old method is to have wide rings to set in the hot fat, and the dough is laid in the rings to fry. 196 CAKES FOR BAKERS Mix 8 whole eggs, 4 yolks, 8 ounces sugar together, add y 8 ounce ammonia and sufficient flour to make a firm dough which may be rolled out thin. Round up lV^-ounce pieces, roll in thin ovals. Now take the pastry jigger and make 5 to 6 cuts, not cutting to edge, so the strips hold together; lift carefully and lay in nest shape in the rings set in the hot fat, and fry crisp. Dust with cinnamon sugar. 197 XII. TEA BISCUIT, SCONES MUFFINS ETC. TEA BISCUIT With Baking Powder No. 1 — Rub 6 ounces butter in 4 pounds cake flour, add 4 ounces baking powder, 2 ounces sugar, *4 ounce salt, mix together with 1 quart milk. No. 2 — 5 pounds cake flour, 10 ounces lard, 1 ounce salt, 2 ounces sugar, 3 pints milk, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces phosphate powder or cream of tartar. Sift sugar, salt and acid into the flour, then rub in lard, add milk with soda, and mix well. Roll out % inch thick and cut with 21/^-inch cutter. Set close together on pans, wash with yolk of egg wash, let rest a few minutes before baking, bake in 400 degrees. Yeast-Raised Tea Cakes or Biscuits 5 pints half milk, half water, 5 ounces yeast, % pound sugar, % pound butter and lard, 1 ounce salt, about 9 pounds bread flour. Make a warm straight dough with ingredients at about 95 degrees. Let rise up fully once, work down and let come up half, work over again. Scale in 6- to 8-ounce pieces, round up, flatten lightly and set on lightly greased tins in well greased rings. Prove in moist prover and bake in good heat. 11/2 to 2 pounds sultanas, or part currants may be used for fruit tea cakes. SCONES American Sultana Scones 7V2 pounds cake flour, 15 ounces sugar, 15 ounces lard, 5 ounces phosphate powder, or cream of tartar, 2V2 ounces soda, V2 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk, 1 pound seedless raisins. Method of mixing: Sift flour with acid and soda, rub in the shortening, dissolve sugar in the milk. Mix dough well — it should not be soft. Scale 10-ounce pieces, round up tight, 198 CAKES FOR BAKERS roll out about % inch thick.' Cut in four, set on pans *4 mcn apart, wash with strong yolk wash on top, carefully, so wash does not run down on the cut side. Bake in 400 to 425 degrees. English Sultana Scones 8 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces cream of tartar, 2 ounces soda, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 pound sultanas, 5 pints milk and water. Mix like American scone, making a softer dough, but working it well to toughen. Scale in 10- to 12-ounce pieces, round up well, but do not roll them quite as thin (about 1/2 inch thick). Now cut in four with a sharp knife and set close enough so the cuts meet on the bottom lightly when baked. Egg wash carefully, so the cut side shows up white when baked. Bake in good heat. Scotch Scones or Irish Sodas 14 pounds winter wheat flour, 3^ ounces cream of tartar (or cream powder), 3^ ounces baking soda, 4 ounces salt, 10V& pounds buttermilk. Mix lightly without toughening mix. Scale 2-pound pieces, pin out rounds about 1 inch thick, cut in four and bake at once on hot plate. The plate should be just hot enough to bake the scone without burning. When scone is baked on one side it is carefully turned and baked on the other side. Another variety is made by adding a pound of cornmeal, leaving out a pound of the flour. FANCY SCONES Self-Raising Flour for Fancy Scones 24 pounds soft cake flour, 12 ounces cream of tartar, 6 ounces soda. This flour is well mixed and kept on hand. Cream Scones Take 6 pounds of self-raising flour, 1 pound sugar, iy 2 pounds butter and lard, about 2 quarts sweet or butter milk. Mix into a smooth dough. Scale in 5- to 6-ounce pieces and round up, pin out and cut in three or four pieces, egg wash twice, let stand a little, and bake in hot. oven. The scones may be turned when half done, on the pan, and finish baking. 199 CAKES FOR BAKERS Tea Scone A small tea scone is made from the same mixture with or without adding eggs. Pieces of dough 11/2 to 2 ounces are rounded up and pinned out to 2*/2 to 3 inches in diameter, put on clean tins, washed with egg, pressed down in center and baked. When partly done they are turned over on the tins and the baking finished. Fancy Sultana Scone Take to 6 pounds of self-raising flour, % pound butter, %, pound sugar, %, pound sultanas, 4 to 6 eggs, and mix with about 3V2 pints buttermilk into a smooth dough. Scale in 12-ounce pieces, round up, pin out and cut in 4 pieces. A similar large scone is made in one round only, cutting partly through and baking without turning. ENGLISH MUFFINS Take 6 pounds medium strong cake flour, sift with 1 ounce baking soda. Make this into a soft sponge with about 5 pints water and 3 ounces yeast at 95 degrees Fahr. Cover and let rise and drop again. Stir the sponge down and let rise for 20 to 30 minutes. While the sponge is rising again, get ready the hot plate and grease the rings. The rings used are from Zy% to 4 inches in diameter and about %, inch deep. The grid- dle should be perfectly clean, and should not require any greasing. Dissolve IV2 ounces salt and IV2 ounces cream of tartar in 1/2 pint of milk and stir well into the sponge. It is now ready for baking. A small dipper which holds just enough batter to fill one ring about half full is best to use. Regulate the batter with milk to proper consistency, according to strength of flour. If batter is too thick the muffin loses gloss; if batter is too thin it is likely to run through under the rings. Do not stir batter much after cream of tartar is added, or muffins are apt to be heavy. Place the rings on the griddle in rows and fill out; when batter in the rings is cov- ered with holes lift off the ring and turn the muffin over on the other side. Have some space left on the griddle, so the muffins can be set on one side, to keep track of the first ones baked. The muffins should not be overbaked — this would make them tough. 200 CAKES FOR BAKERS A similar muffin or crumpet is made without soda or cream of tartar, making a firmer sponge by taking 3*4 pints water and milk, 2 ounces yeast, 5 pounds soft winter wheat flour. Give the same treatment as for muffins. Let rise and drop, stir down, add 1 ounce salt and let rise again. Prepare some boxes or pans by sifting on flour 2 inches deep. Make impressions a little distance apart in the flour with the bottom of a cup. Fill them with some of the dough to* weigh about 2Y2 ounces by dropping it out like drop cake — by squeezing the dough out over the thumb and forefinger and cutting it off with the forefinger of the other hand. Let stand covered until proved, then lift carefully and set on the hot griddle. Let color slightly, then turn over on other side. Brush off the flour when baked. These muffins should be about 3 inches in diameter and nearly 2 inches thick when baked. BUNS— SELF-RAISING FLOUR FOR BUNS 24 pounds soft winter wheat flour, 4 ounces soda, 8 ounces cream of tartar or phosphate powder. Mix and use as di- rected. RaSpberry or Jelly Buns Cream 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces butter and lard, add 8 eggs and about 1 pint milk, or more to make a smooth dough, with 3 pounds of the self-raising flour. Mold up round in 2-ounce pieces, flatten out, and put in the center of each a little jam. Pull over the sides to enclose the jam, turn over and wash with egg, dust with sugar and cut crosswise, so that the jam shows when baked. Pan and bake in good heat. Lemon Buns These may be made in the same manner, using lemon jelly. A more simple method is to round up and dip the buns in granulated sugar, put on the pans, then make an im- pression in the center of each bun and fill the cavity with some jam or jelly before baking. Cocoanut, Sultana and Rice Buns For cocoanut buns mold round, wash and lay in coarse desiccated cocoanut, dust with sugar and bake. For sultana 201 CAKES FOR BAKERS buns, add about 8 ounces sultanas to mixture, mold round, wash and flatten, sprinkle a few chopped almonds and sugar in center, and bake. For rice buns add 4 ounces ground rice to paste, make up in ovals or rounds, dust with sugar and bake. A variety of buns may be made by adding finely chopped candied lemon, or orange or citron peel. Almonds or peanuts make another variety. Streusel, chopped almonds or roasted chopped peanuts may be used on top. Less eggs may be used for low priced goods. Bridge Buns, Bath Buns, Brooklyn Bridge Buns 1 pound sugar, y 2 pound butter, 1 to 4 eggs, 1 ounce soda, 3 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 quart milk, or sufficient to make a soft mixture. Add from 1 to l 1 /^ pounds mixed fruit, flavor with lemon or mace. Drop out like drop cakes on lightly greased pans, egg wash. Leave plain or sprinkle with crushed loaf sugar and chopped almonds. Bake in good heat. 202 XIII. ICINGS AND FILLINGS In cake bakeries it is the custom to prepare a number of stock icings, sufficient for one or more days, and from these icings a number of other combination icings and fillings may be made by adding various flavors and colors, crushed or finely cut fruit, nut meats and fruit juices. Some of these icings keep well for several days ; others are made up fresh daily to ba in the best condition. All icings may be mixed by hand in small quantities, but the cake machine is almost indispensable for making it up in large quantities, and marshmallow filling cannot be beaten perfectly by hand. The machines produce a better quality, besides saving labor and time. Economies are necessary, even in the making of icings and fillings, and goods of wholesome quality can be made up by using albumen, gelatin or gum solutions in the place of fresh egg whites. There are a number of icing powders in the mar- ket which may be used with success. To replace egg whites in icing, egg albumen is used in the proportion of 4 ounces to 1 quart of water, in combination with gum arabic or g um tragacanth ; 3 ounces albumen and 1 ounce gurnis~used for 1 quart of wateE The gum produces a better gloss. Some bakers use a gum solution of iy% ounces gum to 1 quart water; some others a solution of 5 ounces albumen and 3 ounces gelatin dissolved in 3 pints of water, to replace fresh egg whites. This is also used in the place of eggs, with some coloring added in small cake mixtures that need a binder, such as cookies and low-priced cakes. Gelatin frosting is made by dissolving 2 ounces of gelatin in 1 quart of water; let it soak well, then boil and strain. A little cream of tartar or a pinch of alum added will improve this solution, which will form a jelly when cold. Eggj£iugs___ and gum or gelatin icings are i mproved by adding some cream of tartar or lemon juice for whitening and flavoring, but all these icings dry out more or less, depending on the humidity of the atmosphere. To keep 'icings soft, glycer in, butter, or neutral fats are added in small quantities. Glycerin and short- ~"~203~~ CAKES FOR BAKERS ening are used in proportion of 1 ounce glycerin, or 4 ounces of shortening, to 10 pounds of sugar used in the icing. STOCK ICINGS Fondant, icing is Jhe best icing, j It has a fine taste, better eating qualities, keeps a good "gloss, and while it is not as quickly and easily made as other plain icings it is preferred for good work. As it may be made from granulated sugar, it is really l ess expensive t han other icings made from XXXX powdered sugar] ' — ■ These stock icings may be made up a nd kept on JhancL,. It is well to keep the vessels clean, scraping down" the sides after taking out a part of the icing. The vessel s hould be kept covered with a dampcloth^ or a little water sprmEIecTon top, to -prevent the forming of ahard crust. " Fondant Making The proper method is to have a slab s uch as is used for candy making, and a set of square l" incfiTbars, two of 3 feet long and two of 2 feet long. This forms a square on the slab, which is sprinkled with a little water before the boiled sugar is poured on, and holds about 18 pounds of fondant. The boiled sugar must be poured thin on the slab, so that it cools quickly. Candy makers use large circular slabs which are cooled with water underneath. This facilitates the work, which is done by a machine. Take 12 pounds granulated sugar, 2 pounds glucose, or 14 ounce cream of tartar if no glucose is used. Dissolve on the fire by stirring. The sugar should be well dissolved before the boiling starts in. While the sugar is boiling, wash the sides of kettle down with a wet brush to prevent granulation. Take off any scum which arises. If no glucose is used, add the cream of tartar when the sugar starts boiling. The cover may be kept on the kettle and the jjsteam will prevent the sugar from granulating on the sides oTEerae. JLerTJoir^40_t o 242 degree s'; arict pour the sugar" on the wet slab, between Ihe" bars. A Tittle water should be sprinkled on top to prevent the forming of a crust. Let it cool, turn in the sides and work the sugar back and forth with the paddle until it forms a white cream. Scrape in the sides, let the sugar rest on the slab for half an hour to soften, cover 204 CAKES FOR BAKERS with a damp cloth, then knead with the hands into a smooth cream and put away in cans, covered with a damp cloth. Fon- dant will keep in good condition for weeks. To use take as much as required from stock into a small pan, set in hot water and stir until the fondant is melted. Do not melt fondant without stirring, and do not heat above 98 to 100 degrees, or the icing will set too hard and lose its gloss. Colors and flavors may be added while melting the fondant, and it may be diluted with a little water, or better, a syrup. If fondant icing appears too transparent for some purposes a little white . egg icing may be added. Melted chocolate in sufficient quan- tities can be added for chocolate fondant icing. In the bakery where a machin e is handy, a nice fondant frosting may be made as follows, Dut care must be taken not to make it in too large quantities, as the boiled sugar is apt to granulate from the center, being kept to cool in a deep kettle: Boil 8 pounds sugar, y% pound glucose, or y± ounce cream of tartar, with 3 pints water to 235 degrees, pour the boiled sugar in large mixing kettle used for machine. Sprinkle the inside of kettle with a little water, and after pouring in the boiled sugar add some water on top to prevent forming of a crust. Set kettle with sugar in large pan or t ub of cold water, and when cold put kettle in machine and let beat up, using the one-arm beater, on slow speed. If granulation does not set in readily rub some of the sugar on the sides of the kettle with spoon or paddle until it whitens ; stir this part into the other sugar and let machine run until a white cream is formed. Then transfer in other cans and put away for use. Imitation Fondant This is quickly made by letting 1 pint water, li/ 2 pounds sugar come to a boil, adding a little lemon juice or cream of tartar. Stir this syrup into sifted icing sugar, of the right consistency for dipping or frosting, and use warm. This method may be used in an emergency, but is not quite as good as the real fondant. White Stock Icing Put 1 pint egg whites, or dissolved albumen, with 6 pounds icing sugar into machine; let run on second speed to make a 205 CAKES FOR BAKERS stiff, white frosting. (This icing at this stage may be used for decorating, adding one ounce cream of tartar or the juice of one to two lemons, making it so that it may be used for piping.) Let machine run on slow speed, and add one quart of water heated to 150 degrees (hot, but not boiling) ; add' sufficient icing sugar to make it of the proper stiffness so it may be used for frosting layer cakes without running off. For other pur- poses more water and sugar may be added. Let machine run for 25 to 30 minutes, until icing is nice and light. Flavor and color as desired. By adding 10 pounds of fondant to this icing it may be greatly improved. Albumen and Gum Icing for General Use Dissolve 3 ounces albumen in 1 quart of water; strain and add 1 ounce of powdered gum arabic ; put in machine with 8 pounds of granulated sugar and 1/2 ounce cream of tartar. Let it dissolve, then beat up on medium speed for 10 minutes, then let machine run on slow speed. Dissolve 2 quarts of corn syrup in 1 quart of hot water; add to first mixture; let mix and dissolve, then add from 8 to 12 pounds of icing sugar and let this beat up light. Flavor and color as desired. Chocolate Stock Icing 1 pound block chocolate (chocolate liquor), 5 pounds icing sugar, 3 ounces butter, 1 pint hot water. Cut chocolate in small chips; set to melt with the butter on the oven door or on top of oven, to melt slowly without burning ; put sugar and hot water in machine, let run on slow speed, add the melted chocolate and let mix well, to incorporate the chocolate with- out overmixing. This icing keeps well for several days. Chocolate icing loses its gloss from overheating, it should feel just blood warm, or about 98 degrees to be right. If frosting thickens too much, thin with a little water; or better with a syrup made by dissolving 3% pounds of granulated sugar in 1 quart of hot water. This syrup may also be used for a wash for some kinds of rolls and buns. Caramel Icing Melt 5 pounds of light brown or granulated sugar on a slow fire, stirring constantly until it assumes a dark brown 20G CAKES FOR BAKERS color. Care should be used so the sugar does not burn too much and acquire a bitter taste. When the right color is obtained, add 1 quart of water, stir and let boil to dissolve the sugar into a syrup, then add V2 pound of butter; let melt and come to a boil. Put this syrup in machine, adding enough icing sugar (while the machine is running on slow speed) to make it of the proper stiffness. This icing must be heated on the fire and used while warm and not made too soft. A little practice will soon teach the right stiffness. If color is too dark it may be mixed with white icing or fondant. Combina- tions of chocolate and caramel icing with vanilla flavor are popular; also the icing may be mixed with ground nut meats and used for fillings for special cakes. Maple Icing The best maple icing is made from pure maple sugar, or from half maple sugar, half brown sugar, or granulated sugar. Dissolve 12 pounds of broken maple sugar in 3 quarts of water on the fire, add 4 ounces of butter ; mix this syrup, while warm, in machine with sufficient icing sugar." If the icing is too light, color with caramel. Maple flavors may be bought from supply firms. , Water Icing Water icing is simply made by mixing jcing. _sug ar__with ^warjjussiaier to the proper consistency, adding flavor as de- sired. Water icing is r ather heavy, therefore expensive, and does not keep its appearance w ell. For this reason an addition of egg whites or 'marshmallow ls~an imp rovement. By adding any d^slredTIaToTi^R^ used in many ways. A water icing may be made up by using a small addi- tion of boiled starch and corn syrup or glucose, working it up in machine. Dissolve one pound glucose or syrup in 3 pints of hot water, and add 5 pounds of granulated sugar; let this dissolve well and let come near the boil, put it in the machine, add 1 pint of water which has been made into a starch with ll/£ ounces of cornstarch, mix well together and then add suffi- cient icing sugar, % ounce cream of tartar and let beat up well. Flavor as desired. This icing is used for yeast-raised goods in some bakeries. 207 CAKES FOR BAKERS Royal Icing This icing is used in diluted condition for covering large cakes which are to be decorated. It forms a nice gloss cover if dried quickly in a warm place. For decorating the icing is made as follows: For each pound of sifted icing sugar, take about three egg whites and a small pinch of cream of tartar. Mix well in a bowl with spatula until the icing stands well and can be drawn to a point and keeps its shape. This icing should not be too stiff or be stiffened by adding sugar, because it is difficult to use for decorating with fine tubes. It needs proper beating to make it stand up well; the icing dries quickly and should be kept covered with a damp cloth. Do not scrape down sides and try to work hardened icing in the other icing; it forms lumps and chokes up the tubes. Do not let it stand in a warm place. Do not use too much acid; it softens the icing, makes it weak. This icing may be colored as desired. For chocolate decorating, add melted chocolate or cocoa in sufficient quantities. If the icing does not stand up well after it has stood some time, it must be rebeaten, adding a little egg white to make it work and stand up well ; it is best used as soon as it is made. Boiled Icing 2 pounds granulated sugar, 14 pint water, a pinch of cream of tartar boiled to 240 degrees, i/ 2 pint of egg whites beaten stiff, adding 1 ounce icing sugar.- Pour the boiling sugar in a thin stream into the beaten whites, beating constantly, add- ing flavor as desired. This icing is used in various ways, mixed with crushed nut meats or candied fruits. It is used for icing as well as for filling for cakes made up family style. From 14 to I/2 ounce of dissolved gelatin may be beaten in while warm, and it can be used like a marshmallow icing or filling. Boiled Chocolate Icing Put V2 pound of chocolate with a scant pint of water on the fire and stir until the chocolate is well dissolved, then add 21/2 pounds of granulated sugar; mix well and let it boil to a strong thread. Take a part and test between the fingers. Take off the fire and stir with paddle, rubbing it on the sides of vessel until it thickens and a skin forms on top. If mixture 208 CAKES FOR BAKERS is too stiff add a little sugar or water. Use while hot and quickly. For dipping or covering, set goods on wire tray, and dry on the oven door to produce a good gloss. Special Icings Quite a number of special icings may be made by using the different fruit juices made into a clear syrup ,and the hot syrups mixed with icing sugar to the proper consistency. Finely cut French fruits may be added, also figs, dates, or chopped nut meats. Lemon and orange icing may be made by mixing the finely grated yellow rind and juice with a part of water with icing sugar, or in fondant. Black strong coffee may be used for coffee icing. Burnt Sugar Coloring (Caramel) This is made by placing a pound or more of brown or granulated sugar in a shallow pan on the fire, let melt and stir constantly so it does not burn. When the sugar begins to boil it will gradually become a very dark brown — almost black, and will rise in the pan. Now add carefully about y% pint of water or more to the sugar, let boil and dissolve into a dark thick syrup, strain and bottle for use. This coloring is used to give the proper shade to maple, coffee and other frosting, also for an imitation caramel icing. COLORS FOR ICINGS The most popular colors for icings are white, pink, choco- late and a variety of shades of brown. For orange or lemon a delicate orange or yellow color is best to use, as strong colors are often objectionable. Stronger colors are only permissible in, special decorations of cake, where they fit in or are specially ordered by patrons. Formerly many colors were made by the confectioner ; but today it is more practical to buy the factory- made colors, which may be bought in all desired shades. READY-TO-USE FILLINGS I wish here to speak a good word for the ready-made fill- ings which may be bought from bakers' supply houses. These fillings are made by specialists with the best facilities and up-to-date equipment, by men who have made a study of pre- 209 CAKES FOR BAKERS paring this line of goods. Some of them may be bought cheaper and better than a baker can make them, considering the time and labor it takes to make and keep the goods in the best con- dition. The goods are made up in different grades to suit all classes of trade, and the baker who wants the very best can obtain the higher grade goods at a fair price. There are some of the commercial jams and jellies in the market which are to be used cold for fillings. These fillings soften and cannot stand the baking heat. But there are other jams which are prepared to withstand the baking heat without running out. The goods should be ordered according to how they are to be used, suited for baking, or for a cold filler; and as most of the supply firms stand back of their goods, the baker will get the right kind. Marshmallow Filling This filling is one of the most profitable for the baker to use, and a filling very popular with the public. If properly made it gives bulk, makes a nice and fluffy filling which stands up well. One pound of good filling is sufficient to fill from five to six two-layer cakes with a half-inch thick layer of marsh- mallow, making them look like a three-layer cake. One point that must be observed in the use of marshmallow is to use it when fresh made. It stands well for almost a day, and when used for filling layers and blocks it is best applied as soon as it is made. After it stands it sets, and when cold stiffens. If worked over or stirred after it is set the air cells that produced the lightness are broken; it loses bulk and be- comes heavy. If used freshly made and left to set between the layer or block cubes, it stands up well and cuts nicely. After taking it from the machine the marshmallow stands up nice and dry, so that it may be used for decorating, covering and fillings for tarts and pies, cream rolls, and many other goods. Various flavors may be made up from one batch by dividing the batch, adding melted chocolate and beating it in the warm filling, adding fruit juice flavor and color to another part, or adding nut meat and fine-cut preserved fruits. Brown sugar or part maple sugar, part brown sugar, may be used for maple marshmallow. A butter cream filling may be made by adding creamed up 210 CAKES FOR BAKERS or softened butter in proportions from 1/2 to 1 pound to 5 pounds of filling and beating it in a cold place until it stiffens, adding flavor as desired. Left-over marshmallow filling may be added to a new batch when the new batch is nearly finished and beaten light. If a large amount of left-over filling is rebeaten with a new batch, it is well to cook the sugar one or two degrees higher to obtain the proper consistency. Marshmallow Filling with Egg Whites or Albumen Twenty pounds granulated sugar; 4 quarts water; 1 ounce cream of tartar; 2 quarts egg whites, 2 ounces Jap gelatin; or, in place of egg whites, 12 ounces albumen soaked in 114 quarts of water over night. Boil sugar, 2 quarts water, 1 ounce cream of tartar to 240 degrees. Dissolve the Jap gela- tin in two quarts of water on the fire. In the meantime beat up the egg whites (or dissolved albumen) in the machine. When the whites are beaten light, let machine run on medium speed and slowly (in a thin stream) pour in the boiling sugar. The mixture will go down some at this point, but it will rise again. After adding the sugar, add the well-dissolved gela- tin, pouring it in slowly, then let the machine run on faster speed and beat until it stands up well on the beater. The given amount fills one of the large 18 to 20 gallon kettles, the largest size used with cake machines. Jap gelatin is pre- ferred in this formula. If other gelatin is used, take 4 ounces in the given mixture. For maple marshmallow use brown sugar or part maple sugar as suggested, or use maple extract and caramel coloring. Eggless Marshmallow No. 1 — Soak and dissolve 5 ounces gelatin and 3 ounces powdered gum arabic in 3 quarts of warm water; strain in kettle; add 10 pounds of sugar, and stir on the fire without boiling (just warming) ;.then beat up in cake machine until light. Flavor to suit. Keep in cool place well covered. Re- warm for use. No. 2 — Dissolve 4 ounces of gelatin in 1 quart of water at about 150 degrees Fahr. Stir until dissolved. It should not cool down below 140 degrees. When perfectly dissolved add 211 CAKES FOR BAKERS 5 pounds of powdered sugar or icing sugar and % pound warmed glucose or corn syrup. Beat this up in machine on fast speed. It will take about 20 minutes, then add % ounce cream of tartar to whiten and continue beating until it stands up nice and light. At this point melted chocolate or cocoa may be added sufficient to obtain a nice chocolate flavor. SPECIAL BUTTER CREAM FILLINGS— MOCHA CREAMS Vienna Butter Cream Ten eggs, l 1 /^ pounds sugar, 1 pound unsalted butter. Mix and beat eggs on a slow fire until it thickens. Do not let it boil. Take off fire and stir cold on ice, or setting kettle in cold water. Stir butter to a light cream, then add gradually in spoonfuls the egg cream — beating constantly. Flavor vanilla or chocolate, coffee, etc. Use this for filling and deco- rating. New York Mocha Butter Cream One-fourth pint egg whites, 3Vs> pounds icing sugar, 1 pound of unsalted butter, 3 ounces cornstarch. Cream butter light with about 1 pound of sugar, adding the starch, then gradually work in the egg whites and remainder of sugar until nice and light. Chocolate Mocha One-half pound butter, 11/2 pounds compound lard, 7V£ pounds icing sugar, 5 to 6 yolks, sufficient melted butter; chocolate to obtain a good flavor. Chocolate makes a firmer cream, and a little milk is required to make it right for deco- rating and filling. Coffee Mocha Add coffee extract and caramel coloring to produce the right flavor and shade to butter cream. Almond Butter Cream — Almond Mocha Add almond extract to plain mocha cream, or cream 1/2 pound almond paste with V 2 pound of butter, 5 to 6 yolks, add 2 pounds icing sugar and flavor of lemon or vanilla. Add milk sufficient to make it of proper consistency for filling or deco- rating. 212 CAKES FOR BAKERS Pastry Cream for Filling Layer Cakes and Tarts One quart milk, 8 ounces sugar, 1 ounce butter, 3 ounces cornstarch, 5 to 10 yolks or whole eggs ; flavor as desired. Set milk and part of sugar to boil, leaving some cold milk to dilute the cornstarch; mix eggs and balance of sugar with diluted starch ; beat well together. When milk is near boiling, mix a little of the hot milk in starch and egg mixture, add this to the boiling milk, stirring constantly until it thickens. Take off, turn cream in shallow dishpan, add the butter, stir and let cool and add flavor. If the cooked cream stands with- out stirring a dry skin forms and the cream sets coarse. If stirred several times during cooling this may be prevented. By using more or less starch a firmer or softer filling is obtained. From the above given pastry cream the following fillings can be made, 1-quart batches: For Lemon or Orange Cream Filling — Add the grated rind and juice of one lemon or orange after taking it off the fire, and mix thoroughly. For Cocoanut Cream Filling — Add 4 ounces freshly grated or desiccated cocoanut to any lemon or orange or vanilla flavored cream. For Almond Cream Filling — Add 3 to 4 ounces browned and crushed almonds to vanilla flavored cream. For Chocolate Cream Filling — Add 2 ounces grated or melted chocolate to warm cream. Crushed nuts or almonds may be added to chocolate cream. For Coffee or Mocha Filling — Take 1 pint strong black coffee and 1 pint milk when cooking the cream; if a darker color is desired, add caramel to give the right shade. For Special Light Cream Filling — From 5 to 6 egg whites beaten light may be added to the cream before taking it off the fire, stirring it in quickly without overmixing to preserve its lightness, right after the starch and yolk mixture. This makes a fine filling for tarts and small goods. CUSTARD OR PASTRY CREAM FILLING One gallon fresh milk, 1 pound sugar, 8 to 9 ounces corn- starch; 10 to 12 whole eggs, vanilla flavor, a pinch of salt. This cream is used for an all-around filling for cream puffs, 213 CAKES FOR BAKERS eclairs, and other purposes where a less rich cream answers. Set 31/2 quarts of milk on the fire with half the sugar; mix starch, remaining sugar, with V2 quart of cold milk, then add eggs and mix well. When milk is coming to a boil add the starch and egg mixture, stir until it thickens, take off the fire, put in shallow dishpan to cool, add salt and when cooled add flavor. Stirring the cream now and then while it is cook- ing prevents the forming of a skin and makes a smoother cream. English Lemon Butter Fifteen lemons, 20 eggs, 2^2 pounds sugar, 14 pound but- ter. Grate the yellow rind carefully on the sugar, so as not to grate off the white, which is extremely bitter; add the strained juice; put in double boiler, add the melted butter and stir and let boil until it is of the consistency of preserves. Let stand and set for some days before using. This preserve is made up in large quantities by British confectioners at a time when lemons and eggs are low-priced; it keeps well if put in jars. A similar jelly or butter may be made into orange butter filling. Take the grated rind and juice of 10 oranges, the juice of 5 lemons and proceed as for lemon butter. Plain Lemon or Orange Filling One quart of water, 1 pound sugar, the grated rind and juice of from 3 to 5 lemons (for orange filling the juice and grated rind of 3 oranges, juice of 2 lemons), from 5 to 10 yolks, 3y 2 to 4 ounces cornstarch. Dissolve this starch in % pint of cold water and mix with the yolks. Grate the rind on the sugar. Put sugar, water and juice of fruit to boil. When it boils, add the well-mixed starch and egg yolks and stir until it thickens. Take off and stir cool, adding 2 ounces of butter. This filling, by using 3 to 3i/ 2 ounces of starch, will make a nice lemon or orange pie or tart filling. Three and one-half to 4 ounces starch will make a slightly stiffer filling which may be used for layer cake, etc. If used as a filling for pies, the previously baked bottoms should be filled with the hot mixture ; it will set and cut like a custard when cold. Varieties may be made from this filling by adding cocoa- nut to lemon or orange filling. 214 CAKES FOR BAKERS Pineapple Filling Take 1 pint of grated pineapple, 1 pint of water, adding the grated rind and juice of 1 orange or lemon if desired and finish with other ingredients as given. Florodora Filling Take even parts of pineapple, orange and cocoanut filling. Whipped Cream Filling A good cream for whipping should contain from 35 to 40 per cent butter fat, and should be at least 24 hours old. Cream not pasteurized gives more volume, beats up better than pasteurized cream. Beat the cream in a cold place or set kettle in a pan of iced water when beating. Beat slowly at the start, and gradually increase the speed. After beating the cream so it can be drawn to a point, add for each quart of cream 4 ounces of well-sifted powdered sugar and vanilla flavor; mix carefully without overmixing and keep in a cool place. Whipped cream, if standing for some time, softens, milk and sugar gather on the bottom. The sediment may be drawn off and the cream rewhipped, adding a few spoonfuls of fresh cream or rich plain cream. Do not stir whipped cream after the sugar is added, as it causes loss of volume. A spoon is best used for filling cream puffs. Cut the puffs and fill. For filling charlotte russe or cream rolls, use the cream when freshly mixed for same with bag and tube. If using the cake machine for beating whipped cream, watch closely the point when it thickens, as a slight overheating turns the cream into butter, making it coarse. There are some preparations, solutions of gum, which may be used with a poorer grade of cream, but it pays to use the best grade. If a whipped cream is used at once for filling, a small addition of gum powder or powdered gelatin, or ice cream powder may be mixed in with the sugar, or beaten in before adding the sugar. This prevents the sediment of sugar and milk going to the bottom and holds up the cream to a better degree. In an emergency, if short on whipped cream, a meringue may be added to whipped cream. Proceed as follows: Soak 1/2 ounce gelatin in cold water, press out the water and dissolve 215 CAKES FOR BAKERS the gelatin by heating and have ready for use. Beat up 1 quart of whipped cream as usual, also 1 pint of egg whites separately. Gradually beat 8 ounces of sifted powdered sugar into the egg whites, and when it stands up well, pour in the gelatin in a thin stream, beating constantly; add flavor, and mix the meringue carefully into the whipped cream, lightly but fully, so as not to destroy the lightness of the cream. This mixture sets slightly after standing and is best used immediately. Do not stir mixture after adding gelatin and meringue. HOUSEHOLD FILLINGS Special fillings which give cakes a home-like flavor. Caramel Filling Mix 1 pound of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream; add 1 ounce bitter chocolate, 1 ounce butter and 2 ounces of molasses. Mix and boil to "soft ball"; pour this boiling mixture on 3 beaten egg whites, beat cool ; add 4 ounces chopped nuts and use between layers of spiced cakes, which may be frosted with caramel or with chocolate. Camelina Filling Mix well together 4 yolks, y% pound sugar, 2 ounces butter, the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges. Boil in double boiler until it thickens. Take off and add 2 beaten egg whites and 4 ounces of finely chopped candied orange and lemon peel. Use this filling between layers of white or yellow cake. Frost cake with icing made of the grated rind and juice of oranges mixed with icing sugar. Almond Chantilly Filling Mix even parts of whipped cream and meringues with blanched, browned and crushed almonds, between white layer cakes. Frost with vanilla fondant mixed with chopped browned almonds. Angel Pistachio Filling Add to 1 pound of fresh-made marshmallow 4 ounces of finely cut pistachio nuts, or half almonds, half pistachio nuts, 216 CAKES FOR BAKERS flavor with orange flower extract. Use between layers of angel cake or white cake, frost cake a delicate light green, sprinkle with a few fine-cut pistachios. Lady Baltimore Filling Make a boiled icing (see boiled icing), mix with finely cut pecans and figs, flavor with rose water, use with almond flavored or nut flavored white cake as a filling and icing. Charleston Filling Make a boiled icing with l 1 /^ pounds brown sugar, V£ pint water mixed into 4 beaten egg whites ; flavor with lemon rind and juice. Use with maple-frosted white or yellow cake, or chocolate-caramel icing. Cairo Filling Boil V/% pounds of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream and 1 gill of black strong coffee to the "soft ball" ; take off the fire and beat in 2 ounces of butter. Use this filling between layers of spice or chocolate cake, flavored with cinnamon. Frost with maple or coffee icing, sprinkled with a few chopped nuts. London Filling Take 1 pound of blanched almonds, V2 pound of seeded raisins, 4 ounces figs, simmer in a light syrup with the juice of 1 lemon to a soft filling ; add to some boiled icing, and use with fondant covered cakes, sprinkled with a few chopped nuts. Berlin Filling Mix even parts of good currant jelly, almond paste, browned and crushed filberts into a smooth spreading paste. Use between layers of butter sponge cake or rich pound cake containing almonds or nuts. Finish top of cakes by spreading a thin covering of raspberry jam, and over this a cover of marzipan paste. Then frost with fondant and decorate as desired. Neapolitan Filling Use boiled icing or marshmallow, divide in three parts, color one part pink, flavor raspberry, color another part a 217 CAKES FOR BAKERS light green, flavor pistachio, leave one part white, flavor almond. Fill between thin layers of butter sponge cake or other rich layer cake to make a 4-layer cake. Frost top with tri-colored icing in stripes, which may also be put on in marble fashion. Mapleine Filling Boil y% pound of maple syrup with 4 yolks until it thickens ; take off, add a spoonful of butter, then beat cold, mix with chopped nut meats, flavor with nutmeg. Use with maple- frosted cakes. Apricotine Filling Mix hot apricot jam into some marshmallow or stiff meringue, adding a few crushed nuts or almonds. This makes a nice filling for all kinds of layers. Apple Filling Make a nice white apple sauce, let cool and mix with whipped cream, flavor cinnamon, in proportion to !/2 pint firm apple sauce to 1 pint of whipped cream sweetened and flavored. This makes a fine filling for apple shortcake as well as layer cakes. It may be used for covering the top of cakes, finishing it with a lattice of currant jelly or apple jelly. Marguerite Filling Mix into 1 pint of warm pastry cream, i/ 2 ounce of melted gelatin, add i/ 2 pound of fine-cut candied fruit, some chopped walnuts and crushed macaroons. Fruit Fillings with Gelatin Simmer fresh or preserved fruit in a light syrup to soften, cutting it in small dice. Do not stir soft fruit to preserve the shape. Drain off the juice and syrup and add for each pint of the syrup 1 ounce of dissolved gelatin. Let the syrup get cool and when it thickens pour over the cooled fruit. This may be mixed with whipped cream, or the fruit may be used singly or in combinations for fillings in cake or in tarts, also in combination with nut meats of all kinds. All fillings containing whipped cream or gelatin are best handled cool and kept in a cool place. 318 CAKES FOR BAKERS Crushed Fruit Fillings Berries, cherries, peaches, apricots and grated pineapple may be made into fillings by adding to each gallon of crushed fruit from 6 to 8 pounds of sugar, with a little acid for some fruits which contain very little acid. Stir and let boil until it falls in flakes from the paddle or skimmer and put away for use. For less expensive fillings a part of apple pulp may be used with the crushed fruit and boiled down until it jellies. Use good cooking apples for this purpose. (See "Fruit Jams and Jellies." 219 XIV. PIES AND PIE-MAKING In the modern pie factory all of the fruit used is prepared by cooking. While fresh fruit makes a very good flavored pie, for commercial purposes the fresh fruit is too costly to be used without adding a filler, unless fresh fruit is plentiful and a good price can be obtained. Pies made from fresh fruits in season are always in good demand. One large pie bakery which preserves fresh fruit in season, having a large cold storage plant, simply puts the fruit in packages which are frozen solid in the cold storage. The fruit is taken out on requisition as needed, and allowed to thaw out for a few hours before using. Handled in this manner, the fruits retain their flavor to a better degree. Fresh apples are used in some bakeries during the time the price is even with the canned fruit ; if prices rise canned fruit or dried fruit is used. PIE FILLERS By using a good filler a good full pie can be made that can be sold at a profit. Economical bakers use the parings of the green fruit to make a filler. The peelings are covered with water, and boiled until the juice may be pressed from the skins. The extract is then sweetened and thickened with cornstarch and boiled clear. This thickener may also be used in berry pies as a filler. When using canned fruit a better filler is made by straining the juice off the fruit, adding sufficient sugar to this juice and letting it come to a boil ; add tapioca or starch and let thicken, then pour this over the fruit, mix and let cool. A gallon can of apples requires about 1^4 pounds sugar, spices, 2 to 2% ounces starch, and 1 ounce good butter, to make a good filler. This makes a better filler than simply chopping and mixing the canned fruit with sugar, spice and starch, and filling it in the pies. Pie Filler from Ground Tapioca To make a good filler use tapioca ground like cornmeal. This may be bought from bakers' supply firms. Take 12 220 CAKES FOR BAKERS quarts cold water, 6 pounds sugar, 2 pounds ground tapioca. Mix and put kettle on the fire, and stir until the milky appear- ance disappears, when the mixture is done. The mixture should not boil — only become clear. Take a reasonable amount of this filler and use it with canned fruit or fresh fruit. Tapioca is almost neutral and without any flavor and does not interfere with the delicate flavor of the fruit. A similar filler may be made with cornstarch, but corn- starch has a flavor that interferes with the fruit flavor and often breaks and becomes watery when standing for some time. Flavoring of Fruit Pies Apple pie, which is the most popular fruit pie, is seasoned with cinnamon or nutmeg. Some use allspice. The seasoning is often done carelessly, so it happens that no uniformly flavored fruit pie is made. Some practical bakers mix the sugar used for sweetening the pies with a combination of spices to secure an evenly seasoned pie, as follows: To 2 pounds granulated sugar add 10 ounces cinnamon, 4 ounces mace and ground nutmeg, 2 ounces allspice and 1 ounce salt. Mix this well, and use sufficient of the spiced sugar to flavor by adding it to the prepared fruit, with more plain sugar as required. Pie Stock from Dried Fruit When using evaporated fruit, take the quantity needed for a day's work. Pour over it boiling water to sterilize bacteria, then wash off with cold water, and soak over night in cold water. When using apples figure 1 pound of apples to five pies. This will give the number of pounds to be prepared for the day's output. It is advisable to chop or grind the dried fruit into small pieces, after which it should be allowed to soak in cold water for twelve to fourteen hours. To use, drain off the surplus water, add sugar and spices, and it is ready for the pie. Some ready-made filler may be added. Canned Fruits in Pies — Buying Canned Fruit All canned fruits contain more or less water or juice. In buying canned fruits, the best method is to open samples of different brands and grades, weigh the solid contents, com- 221 CAKES FOE BAKERS pare as to quality and price, and select the best. It is better to pay a fair price and not look for the cheapest grade. Never buy peaches with the peel on for pies as they are very bitter, unfit for use. Cheap, inferior grades consist largely of unripe or overripe fruit, or the cans contain very little of the fruit and plenty of water. Many of the canned fruits and even some fresh fruits lack flavor and acidity. A little salt added often helps to bring out a better flavor, and a little acid added also improves the fillings. Citric acid and tartaric acid are derived from fruits, and a solution may be made from 1 pound acid crystals dis- solved in 1 quart warm water, a little of which may be added to the pie fruit to give the proper snap. The same solution is used at soda fountains to season fruit syrups. DRIED FRUIT PIES Dried Berry Pie with Filler Soak and cover 5 pounds evaporated berries in 14 quarts cold water. Let come to a boil and cook a few minutes. Mix 6 pounds sugar with 2 pounds ground tapioca, add to berries, and stir until mixture clears, let cool and use. Raisin Pie Filling Put 6 quarts water, 4 pounds sugar, 10 ounces tapioca on the fire, stir until it clears, then add 8 pounds seeded raisins, mix and let cool. The addition of the juice of two lemons improves this filling. Prune Pie Wash prunes and soak in cold water. Let boil until soft and remove the stones. For each quart of stoned fruit add 8 ounces sugar, 1 pint water; season with spices, or whole stick cinnamon, rind and juice of a lemon. Let come to a boil and thicken with iy 2 ounces tapioca or starch. Let cool and use. FRESH BERRY AND OTHER FRUIT PIES Gooseberry Pie For gooseberry pie the cleaned fruit is best stewed, and if the fruit is very high in price, finely chopped apples may be 222 CAKES FOR BAKERS added to the berries, or some filler used. Take 12 ounces sugar and V2 pint water for each pound of berries. Let fruit, sugar and water come to a boil, then add from 11/2 to 2 ounces starch or tapioca, dissolved in cold water; stir and let boil clear. Cherry Pie Mix the pitted cherries with sufficient sugar to sweeten, let stand for the juice and sugar to form a syrup, drain off the syrup, let come to a boil, adding sufficient thickener dis- solved in cold water, let boil clear, and mix with the fruit. Blueberry Pie For 10 .quarts berries take 21/2 quarts water, 6 pounds sugar, dissolve and let come to a boil, thicken with about 8 ounces starch or tapioca, let clear, and mix with the berries. Season with a little salt, cinnamon and fruit acid. Cranberry Pie Take 10 pounds berries, 12 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 to 3 quarts water. Dissolve 12 ounces starch or tapioca in 2 quarts of water and mix with the boiling berries, boil up once and let cool. Mock Cherry Pie Soak 5 pounds seedless raisins over night. Let 5 pounds cranberries, 2 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, come to a boil, then add the soaked raisins and 6 ounces cornstarch or tapioca ; let thicken and cool. Rhubarb Pie Peel and cut rhubarb in small pieces of uniform size. If very young and tender no cooking is required. Add for each pound rhubarb 12 ounces sugar, i/ 2 ounce cornstarch, mix and let soften, then fill in the pies. Or mix 10 pounds rhubarb with 5 pounds sugar, let stand to draw the juice overnight, strain off the juice, and set to boil, adding about 4 ounces of dissolved starch ; pour over the rhubarb and let boil and thicken. Use more sugar when filling the pies. Some bakers prefer to mix one-third chopped apples with two-thirds of the rhubarb for this pie. 223 CAKES FOR BAKERS Rhubarb Preserving Peel and cut in pieces, put in fruit jars, and fill with cold water; this will keep all winter. To use, drain off the water and add sugar and cook like fresh rhubarb. Peach and Apricot Pie Drain the juice off the canned fruit, and for each gallon can add l 1 ^ pounds sugar; let juice and sugar come to a boil, then add 4 ounces starch dissolved in half a pint of cold water. Mix and let boil until it thicksns, then pour over the fruit and let cool. A little fruit acid and a drop of bitter almond extract improves the flavor. Pineapple Pie To 1 gallon can grated pineapple add 2 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, and let come to a boil. Then add 12 ounces tapioca or starch dissolved in 1 quart water, let thicken, and take off the fire. Flavor may be improved by adding fruit acid and extract of pineapple. Pineapple Filling for Open Pies To each quart pineapple add 1 quart water, 1% to 2 pounds sugar; flavor with juice and grated rind of 2 to 3 lemons or oranges. Dissolve 5 ounces cornstarch in a little cold water, mix with 8 to 10 yolks, and when sugar and pineapple come to a boil stir in the starch and yolks, let thicken, and fill in the ready baked bottoms. Finish with meringue. Strawberry and Pineapple Pie Mix 1 quart of pineapple and 11/2 pounds sugar, let come near a boil, and add 1 quart or more picked strawberries; thicken with li/ 2 to 2 ounces dissolved starch as usual. Fill in pie bottoms when cool. Cover pies with a lattice and border, egg wash and bake, or bake without washing and sift pow- dered sugar over when done. MINCE PIE AND MINCEMEATS Most all bakers buy their mincemeat from reliable firms who make a specialty of putting up mincemeat. There are quite a number of very good condensed mincemeats in the 224 CAKES FOR BAKERS market, which are very handy to use in the bakery, saving time and labor. Mince pies are made usually with a full cover, like apple pies, and lunchrooms make often a specialty of this kind of pie and serve the pies hot to their customers. Mincemeat No. 1 — 15 pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds lean boiled beef, 2*/2 pounds suet, 5 pounds seeded raisins, 5 pounds currants, 2 pounds candied orange peel, 2 to 3 pounds citron, 5 lemons — rind and juice, 5 pounds brown sugar, 1/2 gallon cider, 5 ounces mixed spices, 2 ounces salt. No. 2 — 30 pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds suet, 5 pounds boiled beef or beef hearts, 10 pounds seedless raisins, 10 pounds currants, 6 pounds mixed peel — citron, lemon and oranges, 15 pounds brown sugar, 3 ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce cloves, 2 ounces nutmeg, 3 ounces salt, cider to moisten the mixture. The peel and cores of the apples may be made into a filler instead of using cider. Cover. the peelings with plenty of water, boil and stir until very soft, then strain off the liquid and sweeten with sugar, adding a little fruit acid. Use this in the place of cider. Some bakers use some of the low-grade pail jelly and mix this with the mincemeat. Dried apples may be used to take the place of green apples, and prepared the same as pie stock from dried apples. Lemon peel and orange peel from the fresh fruit, left over in the making of sherbets or fruit ices, may be saved and used instead of buying can- died peel; the rinds may be simply boiled tender, changing the water a couple of times during boiling, then chopped fine before adding, or preserved for use. In the mixing of mincemeats the boiled beef and suet, also apples and candied peels, are chopped fine. Cider or fruit juice may be mixed with the sugar and heated to dissolve and sterilize the cider, then it may be mixed with the dry ingredi- ents, and let stand in a cold place for at least one week before using. Mock Mince Pie Stew raisins same as for raisin pie, add sufficient chopped apples, raisins, peel and spices, add cider or apple juice with sugar to sweeten, and bake like ordinary mince pie. 225 CAKES FOR BAKERS PUMPKIN AND SQUASH PIES No. 1 — 1 gallon can pumpkin, 1' gallon fresh milk, 1 pint whole eggs, 1 pint yolks, 4 pounds brown sugar, 6 ounces flour, 2 ounces spice mixture. Mix in cake machine, putting sugar and eggs with spices in machine, mix well, then add the pumpkin, mix again, then add milk and mix well. Let stand for a while. Before filling the mixture in the pies mix up well, beating it so a foam forms. This foam bakes and forms a cover, holds the top together in baking and prevents cracking. Spice mixture used: 1 pound cinnamon, 1 pound ginger, 1/2 pound mace or nutmeg, *4 pound cloves, 1*4 pounds salt. Mix this well together and use in the pumpkin pies as sug- gested. No. 2 — 1 quart can pumpkin, 1 pound sugar, 5 eggs, 3 ounces strong flour, 1/2 ounce spices, 1 quart milk. Mix makes 7 pies. Fresh Pumpkin Pie No. 3 — 3 pounds fresh pumpkin cooked and rubbed through sieve, 12 ounces brown sugar, I14 pints eggs, 3 ounces flour, IV2 ounces mixed spices, 3 quarts fresh sweet milk, 4 ounces melted butter, lightly browned. Mix like No. 1. Pumpkin Pie with Dry Milk No. 4 — 1 quart pumpkin, 6 eggs, 1% ounces strong flour, Y2 pound milk powder, 12 ounces brown sugar, y 8 pint molasses, 1 ounce mixed spices, 2 quarts water. Mix the dry ingredients, then add eggs, pumpkin, lastly the water, let stand for one-half hour, mix well and use. Squash pies are made.the same as pumpkin pies. CUSTARD PIES Use straight fresh milk containing the full cream. Take 4 to 5 eggs, 1 to IV2 ounces cornstarch, 4 ounces sugar for each quart milk. Mix sugar, starch and eggs well, then add milk gradually, mix well, and flavor with vanilla or nutmeg, with a pinch of salt. Baking of Custard Pies Custard pies are filled in the oven. The ready bottoms are set in the oven, often with a little custard filled in before the 226 CAKES FOR BAKERS pies are placed in the oven; this prevents the blistering or drawing up in the oven. The filling is done with a dipper made for this purpose, to which a long wooden handle may be attached. Custard must be baked carefully. Overbaking causes the milk and eggs to curdle. If underbaked, milk will be found in center. To ascertain that the custard is done, take the clean, .dry point of a knife and insert it in the center of the pie. If the point comes out dry, the custard is done; when not done, milk will be found on the blade. A little close observation will soon teach you to know when the custard is done. Custard Pie — Egg Saver Take 4 ounces cornstarch, 2 eggs, 4 ounces sugar, for each quart fresh full cream milk ; mix well before filling in the pies. Flavor with vanilla or nutmeg. Chocolate Custard Pie Mix 10 ounces sugar, 2^ ounces cornstarch, 3 ounces pow- dered cocoa, with 8 eggs; gradually add 1 quart boiling milk, mix well, then add 1 quart cold milk, flavor of vanilla or cinna- mon. Fill in the bottoms and bake like plain custard pie. Cocoanut Custard Pie Fill a small handful of shredded or fresh grated cocoanut into the pie bottoms, add a little custard, then fill pies in the oven the same as plain custard. LEMON. AND ORANGE PIE FILLINGS No. 1 — 1 quart water, 1 pound sugar, 4 to 5 lemons, 5 yolks, 3V& ounces cornstarch, 1 to 2 ounces melted butter. No. 2 — 1 quart water, % pound sugar, 3 lemons, 3 ounces cornstarch, 1 ounce butter. Method of mixing: Dissolve starch in cold water and mix with the yolks, grate the rind of the lemon on the sugar, set water, sugar and lemon juice to boil. When it boils stir in the starch and yolks, stir until it thickens ; take off the fire, add the butter, then while warm fill in the previously baked bot- toms. 227 - CAKES FOR BAKERS Mixture for Covered Lemon Pie No. 3 — 7 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, 8 ounces butter, 10 lemons, 1% pounds cornstarch, a little acid solution, egg color. (See fruit acid solution under canned fruits) . Mix and prepare like No. 1. Tapioca may be used in preference to cornstarch and the whole lemon with the seeds removed may be ground fine arid used m the filler. Orange Pie Make the same as lemon pie, using less of the grated rind, adding some lemon juice or some fruit acid if oranges are very sweet. Lemon Cream or Orange Cream Pie The lemon pie mixtures No. 1 and No. 2 may be made into a nice cream pie, using milk instead of water. Cook milk, sugar and grated rind together, and when it boils add the dis- solved starch mixed with the yolks ; when it thickens, add the lemon or orange juice the last thing. Stir well, and take off the fire. Fill in the baked crusts, then cover with meringue as usual, dust with sugar, and let color nicely in the oven. Pineapple Meringue or Pineapple Cream Pie Use lemon or orange pie mixture, adding some grated or finely cut canned pineapple to either and leaving out a part of the grated rind and juice of the lemons. CREAM PIES Take to each quart of milk 4 ounces sugar, set to boil, dis- solve 2i/ 2 ounces cornstarch in i/ 2 pint milk, add 4 or 5 yolks and 4 ounces sugar, stir and dissolve. Mix some of the hot milk with yolks and starch, and when the milk comes to a boil, add starch and yolks and stir until it thickens ; then add about 1 ounce butter, flavor with vanilla, or grated lemon or orange rind, fill in the ready baked, bottoms and finish with meringue. Cocoanut Cream Pie Add about 4 ounces grated or desiccated cocoanut to the hot mixture, flavor vanilla or orange. 228 CAKES FOR BAKERS Chocolate Cream Pie Add 2 ounces cocoa or melted chocolate. Butterscotch Pie No. 1 — Make like plain cream pies ; flavor with lemon and use brown sugar in the place of granulated sugar ; or use part brown sugar and part granulated sugar, with a little good but- ter. Finish like meringue pie. No. 2 — Bring to a boil 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pint water, 8 ounces butter. Mix together 8 eggs, 4 ounces cornstarch, ' 2 quarts milk, add this to the boiling mixture and mix well, then bake until set. SPECIAL PIES Dairy or Fruit Cream Pie A thin layer of vanilla cream is filled in the baked bottom, covered with fresh strawberries or raspberries, sliced peaches or preserved fruits, or jam, and this in turn covered with whipped cream or with meringue. These pies are very nice for the lunchroom. Jellied Pie A very popular pie is made in some lunchrooms from pre- pared "one-minute" gelatin powder to use up surplus fruit on hand which might otherwise become unsalable. Oranges are peeled, seeds removed and the pulp cut in small pieces, mixed with sliced bananas, pineapple, white grapes, etc., or with berries in season. About three packages of the unsweetened powder are dissolved in a quart of boiling water and let cool, until nearly set. This is then mixed with the sweetened fresh fruit, and when it begins to set filled in the ready baked cold pie crusts. This gelatin may be colored as required. A cov- ering is made from a marshmallow or meringue, to which some dissolved gelatin is added. This is set in a cold place to cool and stiffen, and ready to serve. It is not advisable to keep these pies in warm weather — they must be kept cool and served cold, the same as the dairy cream pies with whipped cream, or served from the refrigerator. 32? CAKES FOR BAKERS Banana Pie Peel and slice bananas, thin, sweeten with sugar, add a pinch of butter, ginger or allspice, some lemon or orange juice. Bake with a full cover, or if in open fashion cover with me- ringue when done. Combination Fruit Pies Apples may be mixed with raisins and mixed peel, or with rhubarb, quinces, cranberries, grapes, or raisins. Pie a la Mode A cut of almost any kind of fruit pie is served with a spoon- ful of ice cream on the top or side. Boston Cream Pie — Martha Washington Pie Bake a layer cake or sponge cake in deep pie tins or layer tins. Let cool and split in halves. Fill with a good pastry cream or nut cream or with whipped cream, put together, and ice, or sift powdered sugar on top. Washington Cream Pie Line pie tins with a short paste or rich pie crust. Mix together 1 pound cake crumbs, V2 pound ground almonds, 6 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 6 eggs, and a little milk, add 14 ounce baking powder, and fill in the lined tins. Bake, and ice with vanilla fondant. Chocolate may be added and the pie finished like meringue pie. Strawberry or Peach Meringue Pie — Fresh Fruit Bake bottoms of good top crust. Sprinkle a layer of light cake crumbs in bottom, then cover with well ripened straw- berries or raspberries, or peeled and sliced peaches. Finish with a lattice and border of meringue, or a full cover of me- ringue and brown nicely in the oven. Marshmallow or whipped cream may be used in the place of meringue, and the pies kept in a cool place until ready to serve. A similar pie, with fruit, may be made like the Boston cream pie, placing the ripe fruit on cream between two layers of cakes and sifting powdered sugar on top, or decorating with whipped cream. 230 XV. PUDDINGS, JAMS, JELLIES PUDDINGS During the cold months, and especially during the Christ- mas month, plum puddings find a good sale. The usual brown bread tins, or in fact any tin with a cover, may be used, small earthenware bowls are also used by many caterers, to steam or boil the puddings. They are best steamed, but if no steamer is handy a large kettle or boiler, with a perforated bottom set in which will hold enough water to supply the necessary steam, can be used. Grease the tins or bowls well and dust with flour. Fill tins about three-fourths full, so as to give room for the puddings to swell, then put on the cover with a piece of wet floured (or tie the bowls in a wet and flour-dusted) cloth, and boil or steam for from 2 to 4 hours, according to size of pudding. The water must be replenished with more boiling water as it boils down. Let the pudding cool down in the tins when done, over night. To remove, set tins in hot water and they will come out easily and keep their shape. Plum Pudding No. 1 — 2 pounds bread crumbs, 1*4 pounds finely chopped suet, 8 ounces flour, 1*4 pounds brown sugar, 12 eggs, 1 pint milk, 14 pint rum or brandy, 1 pound sultanas, 1 pound seeded large raisins, 1 pound currants, 8 ounces mixed citron and orange peel, finely cut, *4 ounce cinnamon, V2 ounce mixed allspice and nutmeg, the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, ^4 teaspoonful soda. Mix the dry ingredients and add the liquids. Add more milk if mixture' is too firm, fill in moulds as directed and steam from 2 to 4 hours. No. 2 — 2 pounds crumbs, Vfa pounds flour, l 1 /^ pounds suet, y% pint molasses, iy% pounds sugar, 3 pounds raisins, 1 pound currants, 1 pound citron, y% pound orange peel, \y% ounces mixed spices, 14 ounce soda, y% ounce salt. No. 3 — 3 pounds crumbs, 3 pounds brown sugar, 4 pounds suet, 2V2 ounces Salt, mix with 16 beaten eggs, 2 quarts milk, 231 CAKES FOR BAKERS 1 quart N. 0. molasses, 5^ to 6 pounds cake flour, 1 ounce cinnamon, V£ ounce mace, V2 ounce allspice, 21/2 ounces baking powder. Mix and add 6 pounds seeded raisins, 6 pounds cur- rants, or half small raisins and currants, l 1 /^ pounds citron, y% pound orange peel, 4 lemons — grated rind and juice,. 1 pound almonds finely cut. Mix well and steam as directed. They may be taken from the tins when cold, wrapped and labeled attractively, ready for sale. A Variety of Fruit Puddings Besides the given plum puddings a variety of lighter pud- dings can be made in the bakery, using stale bread crumbs to the best advantage. Standard Fruit Pudding 1 pound bread crumbs, 1/2 pound flour, V£ pound chopped beef suet, V6 pound sugar, 1/2 pound seeded or seedless raisins, V% pound currants, 14 pound chopped citron, */2 ounce mixed spice, 2 to 4 eggs, % teaspoon soda, salt, milk to mix, the grated rind and juice of one lemon. Mix like plum pudding. This may be made into a plum pudding adding y 2 pint mo- lasses in the place of sugar. For Cocoanut Pudding: Leave out raisins, currants and spices, add 1/2 pound freshly grated or shredded cocoanut, and 4 ounces finely chopped orange peel. For Fig Pudding, add y% pound finely cut figs, and some candied citron or orange peel. For Date Pudding, add l/ 2 pound dates cut in small pieces. For Lemon or Orange Pudding, add i/ 2 pound of finely cut lemon or orange peel, the grated rind and juice of one lemon or orange. Sultanas, seeded raisins, sliced peaches, apples, or apricots may be used in similar ways. These puddings may be boiled or steamed in molds. They may be served in lunchrooms, or sold whole the same as plum puddings, and bakers can work up a nice trade during the cold months. JAMS AND JELLIES The making of jams and jellies has been discontinued in the bakery, and very good articles may be bought for less 232 CAKES FOR BAKERS money, considering time and labor required. This part of the work is done by specialists and with perfect appliances in the factories. Goods are made in different grades, and the high- grade goods may be obtained at a fair price. Jam Making The methods of making jams is practically the same for the different fruits. All jams and jellies should be cooked rapidly over a hot fire or in a steam- jacketed preserving kettle, in order to obtain the best flavor and bright color. Large fruits may be thinly sliced, berries may be used whole, but do not remain whole in the cooking. For jam the fruit, sugar and if necessary a little water are stirred over the fire con- tinuously. A part of glucose added with the sugar is pref- erable, as it prevents crystallization. Jams are cooked until a drop put on a plate will retain the shape of a bead without spreading, and in the commercial jam making a thermometer is used similar in shape to the dough thermometers. The jam is usually cooked to 222 degrees Fahr. When finished at this point, the jam drops off in flakes from the side of the spoon, instead of coming off in drops. It becomes quickly thicker when cold, but for baking purposes jams may be cooked a few degrees higher, up to 224 to 225 degrees Fahr. The general rule for jams and jellies is to use 1 pound sugar for 1 pound pulp or fruit juice, but a more delicate flavor is obtained by using only % pound sugar. Glucose may be used in proportion of from 1 to 2 pounds glucose to 10 pounds sugar. When making berries into jam it is best to use a part of berries under-ripe, say half of each, the other part fully ripe. The ripe fruit gives the flavor, while the slightly under-ripe berries give the jelly-like consistency to the finished product. In the cooking of jams shallow vessels are best suited for the evaporation and cooking required. Put the cooked jam or jelly in containers when cooled down to 176 degrees, then seal with melted paraffin. Apple juice is less expensive and is very useful in adding to other fruits such as berries, which are in some seasons very scarce, and apple juice is used often in even proportions with the juice of berries to reduce the cost of production. 233 CAKES FOR BAKERS Fruit Jam To 10 pounds berries take 8 pounds sugar, mix and stir until it drops in flakes from the spoon, then fill in the con- tainers as directed. Apple Jelly and Jam The peeling and core of apples, or the entire apples, are covered with water and boiled for half an hour, then filtered through cheesecloth and boiled down to three-fourths of the volume. This filtered juice may be added to the juice of ber- ries and other fruit as mentioned previously, or, when making a pure apple jelly, for each gallon of apple juice 8 pounds sugar are added, stirred until dissolved on the fire, then boiled continuously until it jellies. When the sugar is first dissolved it will run syrup from paddle or skimmer. The next stage it will string, arid" at the next it will break from the paddle in drops. To judge, place a drop on a cool surface. It will bead and not run flat. A good test is to let the jelly cook sufficiently so the drops are rather heavy and slide off in a flake. The jelly point is near 218 and 221 degrees Fahr. For apple jam, cook apples with sufficient water and when soft press through a sieve. Cooking the fruit with the peel makes a firmer jam. For 10 pounds of this pulp take 6 pounds sugar, cook and stir constantly until it jellies. For a clear jam add the grated rind and juice of 2 or 3 lemons. For a red jam, use the dark red skinned apples with same propor- tions of sugar, or 2 pounds of cranberries or raspberries may be added. Pulp expressed from jelly making may be used in cheaper grades of jams. For cherry jelly, raspberry jelly, strawberry jelly or black- berry jelly, use the same proportions of sugar, and equal parts of apple juice may be boiled down with these fruits and fin- ished as usual. Commercial Apple Jelly Use 6 pounds apple juice, 2 quarts water, 4 to 6 ounces agar-agar (Japanese gelatin), i/ 2 ounce citric acid, 2 quarts cranberries, 10 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds glucose. Soak gelatin in 1 quart water, boil cranberries soft in 1 quart 234 CAKES FOR BAKERS water, and strain. Mix with other ingredients, add the dis- solved acid and gelatin. Let boil to the thread degree or 220 degrees. Other flavors or fruit juices, such as raspberry, cur- rants, etc., may be used with the apple juice in the same pro- portions. Where there is not sufficient acid present in the fruit to make the jellies "jell," factories add some acid to make them stand better. These acids are known as coagulants or fruit acids. They are made by dissolving 1 pound tartaric acid in 1 quart water, or 1 pound citric acid in 1 pint water. These acids are used in the proportion of about 2 ounces of the solution in 10 pounds jelly or less, depending on the amount of acidity in the fruit. 235 XVI. ICE CREAMS, ICES, SYRUPS, ETC. Ice creams, to conform with pure food laws, should con-, tain. not less than 14 per cent milk fat. The best plan is to use a good grade of cream,- that is, to use an 18 to 20 per cent cream, as the adding of sugar, flavor, etc., reduces the cream several per cent. STANDARD FORMULA FOR PLAIN ICE CREAM To 10 quarts 18 per cent cream, add 4 pounds granulated sugar; dissolve sugar thoroughly by stirring; add 2 ounces dissolved gelatin, flavor with about 2 ounces vanilla extract. This mixture may be used for a variety of ice creams. Chocolate Ice Cream For chocolate ice cream, dissolve 12 ounces chocolate or cocoa with i/£ pound sugar and sufficient water on the fire to form a thick syrup. Add this to the given mixture and freeze as usual. The hot process of making the cream is often pre- ferred when using chocolate or fruit, producing a smoother cream but less bulk. Chocolate Ice Cream, Hot Process Use Standard formula given. Put sugar and finely cut chocolate or cocoa (from 12 to 16 ounces) into kettle, and a little of the cream, stir on the fire until dissolved, gradually add the rest of the cream, and heat the mixture to near boiling point or to about 180 degrees, but do not let it boil. Then take off the fire, strain, and cool before freezing. Coffee Ice Cream Follow the same method, heating sugar and cream to 180 degrees, take off the fire, and add from 10 to 12 ounces finely ground coffee. Cover and let draw for thirty minutes, strain, add gelatin and caramel color if required, let cool thoroughly, 236 CAKES FOR BAKERS and freeze. Some ice cream makers prefer to add the coffee extracted in about a quart of boiling water to the cold mixture given. . STANDARD ICE CREAM WITH EGGS— NEW YORK ICE CREAM For 10 quarts 20 per cent cream take 4^ pounds sugar, 12 whole eggs, or 20 yolks of eggs. Set 6 quarts cream on the fire with half the sugar ; beat the eggs lightly with the other half of the sugar, and when light thin the eggs with a part of the hot cream. Then put eggs and cream together on the fire, stirring constantly. As soon as the mixture on the fire begins to thicken (which may be ascertained by its coating the spatula or beater), add the remaining 4 quarts cold cream to check the boiling. Take off the fire, strain and cool, add flavor, and freeze as usual. Gelatin may be used in this cream if desired, adding the dissolved gelatin when nearly cool. The proper cooking requires close watching at the point when the eggs begin to thicken. The cream should lose the raw egg taste, but not come to a boil. Boiling would curdle the eggs and prevent the proper amalgamation of cream and eggs. Most of the different flavored creams may be made as sug- gested by the cold process, especially chocolate, caramel, vanilla and nut creams. Fruit creams have better flavor without eggs, and the cold mixtures are preferred. For fruit creams, such as strawberry, raspberry, and peach, mash about 2 quarts fully ripe fruit, adding a part of the sugar, and when the cream is partly frozen, add the crushed and sweetened fruit and finish freezing. For nut creams, almonds should be blanched and browned, then crushed; fil- berts roasted and the skin removed, then crushed; walnuts and pecans, simply chopped fine. From 1 to 2 pounds nutmeats may be added to the quantity of ice cream called for in the Standard recipes. Burnt Almond Ice Cream — Nougat Ice Cream Brown 1 pound blanched almonds. Put 1 pound sugar on the fire, stir until it melts without burning, and when it turns a golden brown add the browned almonds, mix, and turn out on pan or marble slab to let cool. Crush the almonds with a 237 CAKES FOR BAKERS rolling pin and sift through a wide mesh sieve. This mixture may be kept on hand for use, adding from 4 to 8 ounces to each gallon of cream before .cooking; or if only a small quan- tity is required, add sufficient to the ready frozen plain vanilla or New York ice cream. Hazelnut or Filbert Ice Cream . Add from 4 to 6 ounces browned crushed nuts to each gal- lon of vanilla ice cream, with a small quantity of caramel coloring to give a light brown shade. Pistachio Ice Cream For each gallon of cream add 8 to 12 ounces blanched pis- tachio nuts, and flavor with pistachio extract. If almonds are substituted, take 12 ounces blanched almonds, run through chopper or crushed fine, flavor with pistachio, and color cream a delicate light green. Bisque Ice Cream To each gallon of partly frozen cream add from 12 to 16 ounces dried and crushed macaroons, or a mixture of crushed wafers and browned almonds, passed through a wide mesh sieve. Vanilla flavor preferred. Tutti Frutti Ice Cream Take 1 pound candied cherries, 1 pound mixed French fruit glace, 1 pound walnut meats. Chop the fruit in small pieces and cover with a light syrup, let simmer on slow fire to soften, then set aside and let cool. This may be kept on hand in jars. Add IV2 pounds of this mixture to 1 gallon partly frozen cream and finish freezing. v Nesselrode Ice Cream Add to tutti frutti mixture Vk pound finely cut seeded raisins, 4 ounces citron. Tutti frutti ice cream and Nesselrode ice cream are often frozen in brick form, or in fancy melon forms, cut in slices, and served with a rich custard sauce or whipped cream sauce. 238 CAKES FOR BAKERS FROZEN PUDDINGS Plum Pudding To 1 quart chocolate ice cream or tutti frutti ice cream, flavored with spices and colored with caramel, add sufficient French fruit glaces, chopped nuts and raisins, flavor of cloves and cinnamon. Freeze in brick mold from 2 to 3 hours. Serve with a cold custard sauce. Royal Ice Cream — Royal Pudding To 1 quart New York ice cream add y% pound candied pine- apple, 2 ounces cherries, 1 ounce blanched pistachio nuts cut in shreds and y% pint whipped cream, and freeze again in brick mold for 2 to 3 hours. Serve with a cold custard sauce. Cold Chocolate Sauce iy% pounds sugar, 1 pint water, 8 ounces chocolate. Mix and dissolve on the fire, let come to a boil and strain. Let cool and flavor with vanilla. Sauce Mousseline Beat 1 pint 35 per cent whipping cream on ice until nearly firm, sweeten with 4 ounces powdered sugar. Flavors of vanilla, maraschino, noyeau and others are used in this sauce. There are quite a number of fancy ice creams used for special occasions. (Two chapters are devoted to these "Fancy Ice Creams and Frozen Punches" in Paul Richards' Pastry Book, as well as a chapter on parfaits, mousses and biscuits glaces.) FRUIT ICES AND SHERBETS A very simple way of making ices and sherbets is to weigh and measure sugar and liquids, add fruit and flavor, mix and stir until the sugar is well dissolved, making a preparation, using the different fruits, similar to a lemonade. Standard Lemon Water Ice Take 5 pounds granulated sugar, 15 to 20 lemons (or V/% pints juice), 6 quarts water. Grate the yellow rind of 10 lemons on the sugar, rubbing it well into the sugar to obtain the essential oil, add water, stir to dissolve the sugar, let 239 CAKES FOR BAKERS infuse for one hour, then add the juice of the lemons, strain and freeze. Lemon Sherbet Add to above 5 beaten egg whites or 1 ounce of dissolved gelatin before freezing. Orange Water Ice or Sherbet 5 pounds sugar, 6 quarts water, 10 to 15 oranges, according to size, 14 pint lemon juice, the grated rind of 5 to 6 oranges, and the expressed juice of all. Prepare the same as lemon ice, let infuse, strain and freeze. For sherbet add the beaten whites of five eggs or one ounce dissolved gelatin before freezing. Pineapple Ice or Sherbet 5 pounds sugar, 2 1-quart cans grated pineapple, y% pint lemon juice, 5V& quarts water. Fresh ripe pineapple may be used in proportion. Let infuse, strain and freeze. Some ice cream makers simply mix the grated pineapple into ready frozen lemon ice or sherbet. Strawberry, Raspberry and Peach Ices To 5 pounds granulated sugar add from 3 to 4 quarts crushed fruit pulp. Mix well and let infuse, then add 5*^ quarts water and some lemon juice or citric acid solution; to obtain a tart flavor ; add color if required, and freeze as usual. For peach flavor add the crushed peach kernels, or a drop of bitter almond extract. Fruit acids are often used to tone up fruit ices where no lemon flavor is desired, or when lemons are high priced. The lemon water ice formula may be used as a standard for nearly all the ices and sherbets, simply changing the flavors and omitting the grated lemon rind. By adding about i/ 2 ounce melted gelatin to each gallon of ice, sherbets are pro- duced which are practically water ices of a lighter nature, usually less rich in sugar and fruit. Fancy fruit ices may be made by peeling and coring one dozen nice cooking apples and boiling them soft in a gallon of water; add 3i/ 2 pounds of sugar, then add a stick of cinna- 240 CAKES FOR BAKERS mon, stir and let cool, strain and season with lemon juice, then freeze. This mixture may be colored pink, flavored vanilla or rose, or flavored with raspberry juice; or the cinnamon may be left out and the mixture flavored with peppermint, colored a pale green. Pears may be used in the place of apples, or grape juice may be added. This produces quite a variety of fancy ices. Frozen Punches Punches are made by adding some fancy cordial, such as maraschino, creme de menthe or noyeau, to sherbets. Frozen Fruit Salad — Macedoine of Fruit These ices are made from fresh fruits in season, also from combinations of fresh and preserved fruits and of candied fruits. Take oranges, bananas, pineapples, peaches, cherries, raspberries or strawberries, also grapes. Peel the oranges, remove white pith and seeds, cut grapes in halves, large straw- berries in quarters, other fruits in dice. Cover the fruit with a syrup for two hours, then drain and mix with a pineapple or lemon ice. Pack the mixture in a freezing can without the dasher, let freeze without agitation, so the fruit does not get broken and become mushy. This is a good means of using up fruit if there is plenty on hand. The same mixture may be served without being frozen, by simply packing it in ice to keep cool, and serving it as a fruit salad at the fountain. BRICK ICE CREAMS Single- and double-lid molds holding one or two quarts are used, also special long and narrow molds which make a small slice, suitable for ice cream sandwich. Bricks are made from plain cream, also in different flavors and colors as required. The double-lid molds are the most handy, because the ice cream can be easily removed, while the single-lid mold has the advan- tage of being closed at the bottom, and there is less danger of any brine getting in and spoiling the cream. The brick molds should be well filleS, so that in putting down the cover some of the cream will squeeze out on the sides to seal the mold. For packing, put some salted ice in the bottom of the 241 CAKES FOR BAKERS tub, lay in the bricks, cover with layers of ice and salt. When ice and salt have melted the cream will be frozen hard. It takes from two to three hours to harden 1-quart and 2-quart bricks. To remove the cream from the mold, dip the mold for a moment in lukewarm water, wipe off the adhering salt with a cloth, take off the cover, and let the cream slide out on the paper used for wrapping, or cut in portions and wrap sepa- rately. Pack at once in cans which have been packed in ice previously. There are special square packing tanks made with removable shelves, which facilitate the quick handling and serving of these creams. ICE CREAM FREEZING The ice cream freezers are made in various types and sizes. Where electric power can be secured it pays to use power freezers, which are made in large and small sizes. It makes the work easy. Some of the freezers have a crusher attach- ment which may be bought for a reasonable price. Freezing Mixture of Ice and Salt A proportion of 1 part salt to 12-15 parts crushed ice is about right for freezing creams. The ice must be broken fine enough so it melts evenly and goes down around the freezing tub easily. Much ice can be saved by salting the ice in the tub. A speed of about 90 to 95 revolutions per minute of the machine is considered the most suitable. To freeze the cream, fill the freezing tub 'around the can about half full with the crushed ice, add a layer of salt, then use alternate layers of ice and salt until the tub is filled. The salt will gradually work down and promote the freezing. If the mixture is properly cooled before . putting in the freezer, only 15 to 18 minutes' time should be required to freeze the cream ; ices and sherbets take longer. Care must be taken to have the ice properly crushed; large pieces not only retard freezing, but often cause dents in the freezing cans, and holes eventually appear in these dents, allowing leaks likely to spoil a whole batch of ice cream. It should be kept in mind that it is the brine which does the freezing. Leaky tubs or ill-fitting bungs often let out the brine and retard freezing. The ice which has been used for freezing should not be used to freeze 242 CAKES FOR BAKERS a second batch, as it loses strength. But it may be used for packing frozen creams by mixing with some fresh ice and salt. This is the better way. Too rapid freezing often causes loss of volume, also a granular texture. Over freezing also results in loss of volume, because the "swell" goes down, and often causes small grains of butter to form in the cream. Too'much salt is as great a fault as too little, as with too much salt the cream freezes too quickly, causing loss in "swell" and a granular texture. In the freezing of the cream, the ice cream mixture is beaten to lightness by the agitator, and at the same time the mixture freezes and • gains volume. This point of freezing requires close attention, as the frozen cream should be removed from the freezer and poured into the packing can, or, where only one batch is to be frozen the agitator may be taken out and the frozen cream left in the freezing can to harden. If the freezing should be continued it would cause loss of vol- ume, the cream would harden, the swell caused by incorporat- ing air would go down. By transferring the frozen cream at the right time, repacking it and letting it harden in the can, the volume is retained. If ice cream is stirred or handled after it is partly hardened it will lose bulk. For this reason it is more profitable, if outside orders are taken, to fill the freshly frozen cream in the packing cans and let it harden in them. BINDERS AND FILLERS IN ICE CREAMS Binders and fillers will act at the same time as a stabilizer, give body to the frozen cream by preventing the formation of small ice crystals, prevent granulation and coarseness, and keep the frozen creams in good condition for several days. There are a number of preparations in the market — ice cream powders, cream thickeners, etc., and the firms selling these goods give directions how to apply them. Of all these goods mentioned, gelatin takes the first place, and for this reason it is almost universally favored by ice cream makers. Only the best grades should be used, low grades having a gluey odor which easily affects the flavor of pure cream. All gela- tins are slightly acid, hence require careful handling. If overheated in milk or cream they are likely to curdle the cream. This may be prevented by soaking the gelatin in cold 243 CAKES FOR BAKERS water sufficiently to dissolve it when warmed. Dilute the mix- ture by adding sugar or syrup, then stir and strain this solu- tion into the ice cream mixture. Adding gelatin gives a smooth texture to creams and prevents the forming of ice crystals, but if used in too large quantities it causes the cream to be- come sticky, or pasty. Gelatin is used in the proportion of about 4 ounces in a 40-quart batch of cream. Soak and dis- solve in as much water as it will absorb, warm and dissolve gently, add 4 ounces sugar, stir and dissolve. Strain this on the ready cream, which contains sugar, stir and mix thor- oughly before freezing. SIMPLE SYRUP This syrup can be easily made in any quantity. It is made by dissolving 12 pounds sugar in 1 gallon water. Sugar and water may be simply mixed with warm water to dissolve per- fectly, then strained through cheesecloth to have it perfectly clear. The less the syrup is heated in the making, the better it will be. A slightly heavier syrup is made from 14 pounds sugar to the gallon of water, and 1 pound of the sugar may be replaced by 1 pound glucose, to be dissolved with hot water. This syrup is used in the bakery for washing or glacing buns as soon as they are taken from the oven, and is best applied with a soft brush. SUGAR BOILING DEGREES Candy makers use the thermometer for high cooked goods and the saccharometer or syrup gauge for syrup used for crys- talizing candies. The thermometer does not register low cooks, such as 220 degrees, accurately, so the syrup gauge gives better satisfaction. Degrees of Degrees of Name of Degrees Thermometer Saccliarometer Syrup— Small Thread 218 to 220 32 to 33 Large Thread 228 to 230 35 to 37 Blow 230 to 240 38 to 40 Soft Ball 242 to 244 42 to 45 Hard Ball 250 to 255 Boiling sugar after Small Crack 260 more 1 ? Mm 45 f e " , ._ grees, becomes too Hard Crack 285 to 315 dense for the syrup Caramel 320 to 360 f e \"fbi' e therefore un " 244 CAKES FOR BAKERS Sugar is from pearl to thread for syrup, blow and feather for crystallization and conserves, ball, crack and caramel for candy and spun sugar work. There are other definitions for boiling, such as catch or soft ball, small soft ball, large ball, soft crack, snap, hard crack, medium crack, high crack — all are used to denote the different degrees. Finger Test The other way of testing, without the thermometer, using the finger, a stick of wood or wire or skimmer, may be fol- lowed. Small Thread: When the syrup has boiled for some time, dip tip of finger or stick in the syrup and test between the thumb and forefinger. If it can be drawn into a fine thread which breaks if drawn out, it has reached the proper degree. Large Thread: Continue boiling and try as before until the thread can be pulled without breaking to the full spread of the fingers. Blow Degree: Dip a skimmer or a wire bent into a loop, blow through the holes ; if bubbles appear it has reached this degree. Soft Ball: Dip finger in cold water or use stick, then in the boiling sugar and quickly back into the water. Try the sugar. If it can be formed into a soft small ball it has reached the degree which is used for cooking sugar for fondant or for marshmallow. Hard Ball : A little more boiling, with the same test, will form a harder and larger ball. Small Crack: Boiling is continued. If when tested the sugar breaks with a slight crack or bites hard and does not stick to the teeth, it has attained the small crack. Hard Crack : If sugar breaks short and crisp with a snap, it is at the hard crack degree. Caramel : In a few moments the sugar will turn quickly and take on a golden yellow color; this is the caramel degree. At this stage it is used for fancy sugar work, nougat, spun sugar, web sugar, handles for baskets and other work. It 245 CAKES FOR BAKERS should be taken off the fire at once when it reaches this stage, and the kettle set in cold water for a moment to quickly stop more boiling. If boiling is continued the sugar will turn a dark brown and smoke and burn. At this stage it is used for coloring. Water is added and it is boiled into a syrup which keeps indefinitely if bottled for use. Information about sugar work, candy making, ice creams and syrups for soda fountains is given in "Candy for Des- sert," by Paul Richards. 246 XVII. PREPARING CAKES FOR SALE In the large cake bakeries, which confine their business to a small variety of cakes, the baked cakes are placed in racks or shelves to cool. The lighter varieties are made ready at once; the box cakes are frosted and cut, wrapped and placed in cartons ready for shipping. The richer grades of pound cakes and fruit cakes are wiped with a cloth and wrapped in waxed paper. The heavy, rich grades of fruit cakes, also Christmas cakes, which improve with age, are often baked several weeks before the holidays. The baking paper is left on the^cakes, and the cakes are wrapped in waxed paper. A stamp is used to denote the day of baking. The retail baker is obliged to produce a larger variety of cakes, large and small, and I give here an outline of how one successful retail baker prepares his cakes for sale. This baker has quite a large trade in block cakes. Many of the cakes are baked in blocks. When baked they are about 11/4 inches thick; two blocks are put together with a half -inch- thick layer of marshmallow filling, making a block about three inches thick. The cakes are frosted and cut in pieces. Angel Food Cakes are baked in three sizes. Round cakes are baked in the usual forms with a center tube. A 2-quart size is scaled 15 ounces and frosted with white vanilla. The cakes are placed on paper plates. A chocolate angel cake of the same size is frosted with chocolate and sells for the same price. Another cake is baked in a tin 19x1114x11/2 inches, with straight sides, and scaled about 2% pounds. Two of the baked cakes are put together with marshmallow, finished on top with vanilla frosting. The cakes are placed on paper on boards of white wood, and in the store these blocks are cut in ten pieces. The baker has made a frame of white tin, the exact size of the cakes or blocks, which divides or marks each block in ten even slices ; also one for a larger size pan 19x25x1 inch for large sheet blocks, which makes 18 cuts. This makes 247 CAKES FOR BAKERS it easy for the sales people to cut the cakes exactly and quickly. Orange Cakes are made in two sizes. Small cakes are baked in a pan with top 8^x4% inches, bottom 8x3% inches, 21/2 inches deep. Large blocks are baked in the same size tins as the angel blocks, scaled about 2i/ 2 pounds, two put together with marshmallow, finished, iced and cut in the same sizes as the angel blocks. The small orange cakes are very popular. These cakes are scaled about 11 ounces; are flavored with orange rind, and are frosted with a thin frosting made of the juice and flavored with the rind of the oranges. Sunshine Cake is baked in round tins, the same as angel cake tins, and scaled about 9 ounces. The cakes are flavored with the grated rind and juice of lemon and frosted with lemon-flavored frosting. Devil's Food Cake is baked in pans of the same size as the angel cake tins, with the difference that the pans are lined with white wood, %-inch thick on sides and ends, then lined with paper. The baked cakes, which are scaled 2*4 pounds in each pan, are put together in blocks with marshmallow and frosted in chocolate; a few chopped nuts are sprinkled on top, or the top is made in marble fashion — each pan to make 10 cuts. A straight sided pan, 18x25x114 inches, is also used ; two sheets are put together as above, producing 18 cuts. Walnut Cakes are made up in blocks the same as the devil's food, put together with marshmallow which contains a few ground nuts; the top is frosted white and sprinkled with chopped nuts. Cut in 10 pieces. Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes are made up in blocks the same as the nut cakes. Two sheets or blocks are put together with maple marshmallow, frosted with caramel or maple-flavored frosting, with a few nuts sprinkled on top, and cut in 10 pieces. Neapolitan Cakes are made from a yellow layer cake mix- ture, baked in straight-sided papered pan 19x25xli/ 2 inches. One sheet is colored with chocolate, and three sheets (the chocolate in the center) are put together. The fillings are varied frequently — creams, jelly and white or maple marsh- mallow are used for filling; the top is frosted with white lemon-flavored frosting; a pan is made into 18 cuts. 248 CAKES FOR BAKERS A variety of white and yellow poundcakes are made ; baked in pans which hold about 3^ pounds cake dough. The pans are lined with white wood, made of a size 18x7x3 inches, with double paper or asbestos on bottom. The cakes are usually frosted on top with a delicately-flavored frosting. A pan of this size is made into 6 cuts. MISCELLANEOUS In some of the white cakes, cherries are added, about 2 ounces of cherries cut in halves or quarters for each pound of cake batter. Others contain citron, or sultanas. The frosting used on the different cakes is made to suit, adding a few finely-cut cherries, citron, or sultanas to the icing. The large fruit cakes, block fruit cake, raisin poundcake and citron cake are sold by the pound or by the cut. The best grades, sold by the pound, are covered with a well- flavored thick frosting. Some other cakes are sold plain. Frosting cakes sold by the pound are the most profitable, for the reason that one pound of frosting or sugar costs less than one pound of rich cake. For these cakes a size of pan is used which allows for cuts in even pounds; this prevents loss in sales. Some of the fruit cakes are cut in halves and the cut side exposed to show the fruit and grain of the cake. This method is also followed with various other cakes, white, light yellow fruit cakes and poundcakes. Some of the cakes may be cut and wrapped in 1-pound packages, using transparent paper. The cakes are sealed with fancy stickers and tied with small ribbon — candy-box fashion. This makes a very attractive package to take home. Fancy Cakes Quite a variety of fancy cakes are made up in different shapes, using a solid mixture to which are added nuts or almonds ground fine. Chocolate and nut cakes are baked in hoops to hold 1 pound of the cake batter. These cakes are baked the day before using; the next day they are split through and put together with nut cream, mocha cream or chocolate. The same creams are used on the sides, and the sides are rolled in chopped roasted nuts, a border piped on the frosted cakes, or the cake is decorated with some halves 249 CAKES FOR BAKERS of nuts or almonds; or a cherry with angelica leaf decora- tion is put in the center. The same mixtures are baked in sheets in a pan with straight sides, the same as Neapolitan cakes. Two pans are put together with jelly, marshmallow or cream fillings ; each pan is cut in 18 pieces about 2V£ inches wide, 214, inches high, 6 inches long. Each piece is fully frosted, some in chocolate, others white or pink, and the IK^m 1 ^H^M 1 ' * -if J&ra LiftlL '^'V^TTI ■r"T ^^ v^wi -4'dS v j ■^musL^^H cakes are decorated with nuts or cherries, some of them fin- ished with butter cream, etc. From the same cakes square cakes are made and put together with various fillings. For some cakes a meringue is used, spread on the side and top; the cakes are sprinkled with nuts or cocoanut and then put in the oven just long enough to color meringue and nuts a delicate brown. Other Layer Cakes are made in a large variety; white and yellow layers are filled with various fillings and frosted 250 CAKES FOR BAKERS in different flavors and colors in accordance with the fillings, which gives the patrons quite a choice. The layer cake tins are made with straight sides. Eight-inch layers are scaled about 10 ounces. ###f##"4!MP*#4MP#*#*f<# Small loaf cakes, such as Duchess Cake, made from the well-known mixtures, are baked in papered 1-pound bread tins, scaled about 1 pound, frosted in white, caramel or maple frosting, with a few chopped nuts or some browned cocoanut sprinkled on top. Fancy Layer Cake Chocolate rolls are filled with marshmallow. Maple rolls, made of a yellow mixture, are filled with a brown maple marshmallow. These rolls are usually made the day before using, to let the marshmallow set; they are cut in 6 pieces, 251 CAKES FOR BAKERS each cut frosted with chocolate or maple frosting, placed on paraffin paper, 12 cuts on each pan. Cup Cakes Cup cakes are made from light and dark mixtures. Lunch cup cakes are frosted with orange f rostingfi dark cups or spice cups are frosted in chocolate. Some of the light cup cakes are frosted with white vanilla icing, and some of them are sold plain, without being frosted. This policy of finishing the cakes attractively is followed also with other cakes. This bakery carries also a nice assortment of small fancy cakes and pastries which sell rapidly ; they are made from the best materials and make a fine display. Quite a good many- orders for cakes for special occasions, such as parties, wed- dings and birthdays, are taken, and such cakes are exposed at the counter for show or as an advertisement. During the holiday season, quite a number of large layer cakes are sold. These are made up in 9- or 10-inch layers ; two layers are put together, frosted, and decorated with a simple decoration, greeting, etc. For Washington's birthd ay white layer cake is decorated with a bunch of cherries. A stem of~ angelica is inserted in candied cherries; leavesTare also made of angelica. Christmas cakes are fixed mTTolly fashion, mak- ing a spray of angelica and red wintergreen candy berries. Displaying Small Goods The small cakes, such as lady fingers, macaroons and cookies, are always packed in symmetrical order on papered white tin pans. They are stacked in pyramid fashion, which gives a nice appearance. The pans are refilled and rearranged if a part of the cakes are sold, to make them always look their best. In packing the lady fi ngers, each layer is sifted over thinly with some" fine icing^sugar to make them " look~Best. This method of packing" and sugaring is also u sed for fried cakes J Jelly_bansand doughnuts. ~~^ The yeast-raised sweet goods are also carefully finished. Scones and tea biscuits are washed wi th a good yolk of egg wash, which gives them a rich appearance. Some "of 'these goods are washed with a syrup to give a good gloss! Cream 252 CAKES FOR BAKERS puffs, chocolate eclairs and other pastry are made up in a large variety. There are quite a number of other goods, not named here, but this will give you an idea of what can be done towards keeping up the quality and getting the price for it. It may be added that all goods should be marked with neatly printed cards, giving the name of the goods and the prices they sell for — by the piece or by the dozen. This practice makes the patrons familiar with the names of the different products as well as their prices. It facilitates selling in the rush hours, for customers know just what to ask for, and just the amount they must expect to pay for the goods. All bakery goods are put up in specially made paper fold- ing boxes, made to fit the different sized cakes, so they may be carried home without crushing. The goods are frequently advertised in the local papers and special sales are announced, at which certain cakes are sold at a lower price at a certain day or hour. This brings many patrons who also buy other goods. The varieties of cakes are frequently changed, to have something different, or different looking, on display; this attracts buyers. CAKE MAKING AND CAKE BAKING DON'TS Buying Materials Don't change materials used in cake making too fre- quently. By keeping to the same grade of materials the goods Gan be turned out with more uniform results. If you change the flour it may require a change in the recipe to coliformlvTfhThe different properties. ■ — Have on hand different kinds of sugar , such as granulated, standard, powdered and XXXX ^cing sugar and one or two^ grades of brow n sugar. Standard powdered sugar makes the best soft cakes be- causelt is more easily blended "with "tFe "other i ingredients, mixes quicker and dissolves, prevents overbeating or over- heating the mixture, and gives a better appearance to the cakes. If possible have a uniform cost price for materials by contracting for and laying in butter and eggs in the spring 253 CAKES FOR BAKERS or early in the summer, or by buying and placing them in cold storage. Butter and Other Shortenings Don't^ use any badbu tter. Butter takes up any odor easily, and some of the~ low gr ade butter becomes rancid more readily, and often acquires a fi shy odor if kept in stor- age. The shortening should consist of g ood butter or a neutral fat, especially in making poundcake's^ In selecting butter, care should be taken to choose a qual- ity having a good heavy body and f ree to a certain extent from sa lt an d water, so that the creaming up produces the ""proper lightness in the cake. This applies also to other fats. There are various grades of neutra l fats and compo und s on the market, but they are not all su itable for c ake wor k. Best results are obtained froifTa fat which contains a very" small amount of water and has a flexible, waxy feeling. In bakeries where butter is used with oTSher~fats, a good method is to blend butter and the other shortening in the dough mixer. This is best done by first placing the butter in a warm place to soften down to the consistency of the other fat, then mixing both fats. This will produce a uniform fat and make it better for creaming. In warm weather a firmer compound may be added to the butter. The proportion of butter and other fats may be changed as the prices permit. When using good butter, Don't use any other strong flavor to spoil the good flavor of butter. Don't forget to add salt if using a compound or neutral fat. Salt brings out the other flavors used and makes the cake more palatable. Naturally, if using butter which contains salt, less salt must be used in the goods, and the amount must be left to the discretion of the baker. Usually from y 2 ounce to 3^/ ounce of salt may be used with every pound of saltless fats.V Temperature of Materials Don't think that any old temperature may be used in mixing. Keep materials cool. Keep butter and other shorten- ing at a temperature of_45 to 55 degrees F ahr. ; such a tem- perature is desirable for fats and eggs. 254 CAKES FOR BAKERS ■< In creaming by hand or machine t oo much heat or a higher temperature is likely to make mix get heavy and curdle. Too cold milk also may cause curdling, if a mixture s tarts t o curdle a small quantity "of "Hour beaten in will help to restore if— it will cream up better. Don't guess in compounding a cake mixture. Be exact in weighing and measuring ingredients. Remember that conditions and material vary, and often a failure is caused by lack of knowledge. Don't fail to cream your shortening and sugar or shorten- j jng and Hour ligh t enough, before adding the eggs; and when adding eggCaHcTthem as fast as they can be taken in with- out overheating them at this stage. Then add flour without S over-mixing. ~ r ~ If using large quantities of milk and wate r, d on't add it all at one time. Add a portion of the flour, cream that in well, then" adcTpart of the milk, t hen a dd the rest of the flour, then the rest of the milk. It makes qui te a difference in the "appearance of the "cakes if this care is exercised. ~~ In scaling"off or dropping out cakes be exact. If any of the mixture is left, don't divide it between the rest of the cakes, rather make a small cake of it to obtain extra money for it. Don't count your eggs, weigh or measure them. This method is better for regular work. Don't over-flavor your cake; be careful with flavoring. Don't use a baking powder because it is cheap. Use_the best on the marketTor~make your own baking powder. TJon't use cheap spices ; use the best. Don't neglect to scrape down the sides of the bowl when mixing or when filling out the mixture.X If scrapings are left j to the last, they Will show in the cakes, causing imperfections in the texture. In mixing cakes by the flour batter method and beating \ip egg with or without sugar separately, don't beat the eggs ( /too light, only fairly light, or they will lose strength. Also, use less baking powder — less than when using the sugar and "\ butter cream process. Don't neglect your oven. Watch the oven heat and note the time it takes to bake the different goods, because uneven baking causes as much trouble as uneven mixing, 255 S, CAKES FOR BAKERS Don't forget that the larger the cakes are, the more ^protecti on they require in 'baking (in tne way of wooden s frames and thick layers of paper) ; also that for small ca kes a higher degrelPol heat may be tfsed than for the larger cakes. ~ IHT making cakes which are sold by the cut, pound or slice, try to use a tin which makes cuts of a certain size, so there are no trimmings to cause waste. Don't distur b large cakes in the oven un til they are prop- erly set. Always set your cakes in an even - and~straight jpositiojTto prevent them from baking lop-sided, a condition which may be caused by uneven oven bottom. Don't make too many kinds of cakes all the time, but change varieties occasionally to be in accord with the season. A small variety of cakes is easier to make, can be produced with less waste, and it is easier to train help to make them right, and to watch the materials. Don't try to make too cheap a cake. The cake must be good — not only good enough. Try to turn out better quality than bakers generally make. Many economies may be prac- ticed without lowering the quality of the cake. Don't think you can hold trade by starting to make a first-class product, and then lowering the grade. Rather hold up the quality and raise the price or change the size. Don't sell below cost. Make a profit on everything you sell, but be satisfied with a small profit. Don't forget that thought and system in working the various cakes saves money and fuel. By baking off the cakes which require a strong heat first, the oven will be suitable tor the larger and richer cakes. Don't let a high-priced man do work that a boy can do — it is not economical. Selling Cakes Don't forget to display your goods always to best advan- tage. Never let .your window display or your showcase have a rundown sort of appearance. Always keep your goods exhibited in an attractive manner. Have the shop and shelves as well as the goods invariably neat and clean and inviting. Change your display frequently, so it has always 256 CAKES FOR BAKERS an appearance of freshness. Avoid sameness — always have something different. Small cakes should be packed in sym- metrical order on papered white tin pans stacked in pyramid fashion, and the pans refilled and rearranged if a part of the cakes are sold. Pains should also be taken to set out other varieties of cake to the best advantage. Don't neglect to mark your goods with neatly printed price cards giving the names they go by and the price they sell for. It facilitates selling in the rush hours, for customers know just what to ask for and just the amount to be paid for the different goods. Price cards are silent salesmen. They make the patrons familiar with the names of the different goods as well as their prices. In selling such goods as cream goods, which are apt to sour, if any are returned make good the loss. It will hold your customers. Remember, "the patron is always right." Don't be a stay-at-home. Visit other cities and bakeries to see and learn from others. Don't think you know it all. Keep an open mind, learn from others, and adapt the better way to your business wherever you can. ORNAMENTAL WORK A large decorated cake or a fancy window piece is always an attraction — especially if surrounded by a nice assortment of smaller fancy cakes skillfully arranged. The retail baker has the best opportunity to introduce new cakes to his cus- tomers. Something new and appetizing always attracts ; it is a great selling force, which attracts and holds new trade. A number of window show pieces are illustrated, several log cabin display pieces, and a variety of Christmas cake tops. Large display pieces can be made with little expense, using a dummy made of wood, tin or cardboard (or other com- bination), if only intended for display. These pieces keep well, and may be changed as occasion requires. There is such a large variety of smaller fancy cakes that the display may be changed and something different may be exposed for sale every day. A little care and time devoted daily to the display will prove of great value and stimulate the trade. It takes initiative and some effort to introduce something new, but 257 CAKES FOR BAKERS it has been our experience that novelties and specialties and a frequent change in the goods are sure to bring results — not immediately, but gradually. Small cakes, such as layer cakes, made with various fillings and icings, are good sellers, and the variety of fillings and icings is so extensive (as may be seen in the special chapter 258 CAKES FOR BAKERS on Icings and Fillings) that almost continuous changes of very attractive cakes can be made. Layer cakes of all kinds, made of white, yellow and dark mixtures, crumb cake, spice cake, chocolate cake and other cakes, put together in com- bination with one or several fillings made into one, if com- bined suitably, produce a variety of changes which are often highly appreciated by the public. Monotonous sameness of cakes, fillings and frostings is not conducive to large sales; and while it may be necessary to increase the price of deco- rated cake, it need not be too high to attract buyers. Nuts may be used sparingly, or may be mixed with browned cake crumbs for use on the sides of cakes. White ~ana"ch ocolate fondan t may be used for a thin covering; butterj ■-creams~may be"~mad"e " l ess expen sive by adding_some good neutral nut butter. Most all cakes look better if their edges 259 CAKES FOR BAKERS and s kies are c overed with chopped brow ned cocoanut or al monds , or coated with a t hin jeIIy~or sy7up~and covered with white cofi2anulL__ The top finishings may be made plain in various colors, and trimmed with contrasting colors. Some of the cakes may be decorated with a little piping, others finished with chopped nuts or halves of nuts, or trimmed with pieces of cherries, angelica or jelly piping. Meringue and Almond Paste Decorations For large special tart cakes and how to finish them, see chapter on Special Layer Cakes and Tart Mixtures. Meringue and almond paste decorating make another pleasing variety; a stiff meringue for spreading on top and sides, with dec oration of • border and scrolls, using star tube, "IsTquickly executed, leaving some open spaces in the center and be- tween the scrolls ; the sides may be sprinkled with choppe d nuts. The cake should Be put in tne oven, setting it on a board, just 1ong~enough t o color nicely. When the cake has cooled, the spaces are filled in with jelly or fondant, or with a center of cherries and an- gelica. Almond paste, made like the fancy macaroon paste (given in another place) constitutes a very fine eating decoration, and may bs made to look as appe- tizing as it tastes. The paste may be spread on the sides of the cake and roughened with a fork. The border may be made in scroll shape, the center in lattice fashion, then lightly browned in the oven. When cold the panels may be filled" with jellies, fondant or chocolate, and finished in various styles. There are many ways of decorating cakes, and the fashions are changing frequently. The suggestions given about decor- ating small cakes can be more elaborately applied for the larger cakes. In the chapter on tart cakes and layer cakes, the object in decorating has always been kept in mind. These cakes are decorated so that there is n othing on the cakes that 260 CAKES FOR BAKERS interfere with their eating quality . But there are styles of cakes (especially the wedding cakes) where this line is not drawn very closely, and artificial helps, such as gum paste ornaments and figures, artificial flowers, leaves, etc., are used for beautifying. 'These artificial ornaments are a great help to the less accomplished decorator. There are many branches of decorating work, such as the making of flowers from royal icin g, gumjj a ste, al mond pa ste ^r_bo iIed sugar; gum paste work, skeleton piping and bobbinet_ work are used for making cake ornaments. Nougat and boiled sugar are also used for making castles, vases, or bas- kets ; other fancy pieces are made of meringue or spun sugar. It is advisable that all who wish to become expert in the art of decorating should learn a little free-hand drawing and study some books of designs, of which there are quite a good 'many; To acquire~skill~in the - handling of the various orna- 261 CAKES FOR BAKERS meriting tubes used forjsiping, a beginner ma y u se a composi- tion of compound lard a nd^ourTfbeating this up and keeping" it in a cool place. ThisTmixture may be used with a bag and tube, the same as royal icing, using a dummy form of wood, tin or cardboard. With the various tubes, fancy bordersT scrolls, wreaths and leaves may be made, and the mixture can be used over and over again without loss of material. With a little^ skill and patience one will soon become expert in this work. Gum Paste Work To make gum paste for ornamental work, put 4 ounces gum tra gacanth into a jar, cover with water and let it soak 262 CAKES FOR BAKERS for 24 hours, s tirring occasionally so it may dissolve. Strain / ancTtwist through a cloth to remove all lumps, then mix with i 2 pounds icing sugar to a smooth paste. Take one-fourth of this paste and mix with 2 pounds icing sugar (or part starch) into a pliable paste, keeping it well covered. A variety of ornaments can be made from this paste. Plaster of paris molds, sulphur molds, or rubber and tin forms, are used. The paste is pressed in the molds; it dries in a short time, and keeps its shape well. The modeling is often done by hand, but such work requires much experience and practice. Flowers and figures are painted with colors diluted in syrup. Many of these ornaments are made in "TacTories where this work is carried on in a practical manner. Making Medallions and Chocolate Centers Border and face casts for medallions are often_ made out of sulphur ; they may also be bought from confectioners' supply houses. To make half casts for molding, the oiled object may be pressed half way down, in soft plaster of paris and removed when the plaster hardens. But a better way to 263 CAKES FOR BAKERS 264 CAKES FOR BAKERS 265 CAKES FOR BAKERS make such casts is to take common potters' clay, and press half of the object into the clay, leaving exposed only the part of which the cast is to be made. Brush the exposed part with oil, place a frame around the object and pour in the plaster. The plaster must be prepared quickly by sprinkling the pow- der in cold water, stirring at the same time, till it form a thick, creamy mass; then pour it in the frame to surround and cover the object. For casting faces of coins and medal- lions, sulphur is often used. The sulphur is melted on a slow fire, the object oiled and the cast is made the same way as with plaster of paris. To Prepare Chocolate for Casting Take 2 pounds bitter chocolate, melt slowly with 1 pound cocoa butter, then stir in 3 pounds well-sifted icing sugar and some chocolate color to produce the desired shade. The molds must be perfectly clean and dry. Fill molds with the melted chocolate; let set in cool place for about two hours, then knock out of the molds. These may be made round, in horseshoe or in heart shape, and make very nice cake centers. The chocolate centers are usually varnished with a gumglac- ing made of 4 ounce s gum benzoin and 1 2 ounces spirits, set in a warm place, and frequently shaken until dissolved. "This glacihg is applied with a""sof t "" brush and dries quickly. The different designsare decoratS5Toff the cake in~many"ways, in colors to suit. By setting the design in the center of the cake only a border and side decoration will be required, and the cakes may be quickly and effectively finished. Chocolate medallions are specially desirable for finishing Christmas cake, where only little time can be given to elaborate designs. SUGGESTIONS FOR LINE ORNAMENTING Almost everyone in the cake and fancy bakers' calling has had some experience in cornet work, called in Europe piping. All value the sundries related to ornamental work, "whTch"caiT be purchased from the supply houses, as they facilitate the decorative effect ; but I think nothing looks so artistic as free- hand line work done by one that has practiced it to some ex- tent, especially if it is done on tinted or chocolate ground. What I mean by tinted is royal or fondant frosting of appro- 266 CAKES FOR BAKERS priate flavors and colors of light shade, such as orange, mocha (coffee cream), violet, pistache (pea green), rose pink and chocolate, light and dark. A practiced and steady hand can only produce exquisite results. The royal icing for such work must be light yet tough. Make it with as littl e acid as possi- Tup JB"/>/>e-\ S/OE BoKOifi. ble; stir it up light while it is rather heavy, and reduce it with a few drops of white of egg as i t comes to perlect whiteness anTTighThess^ Toojmichjj^idlln a frosting make£_coarse^ "porousneiiT^which, when forced from the corneT causes the "TrequenFbreaks, so if you attempt this kind of work bear the process of making the frosting in min<^start it pretty stout. \ without acid, and beat it until it shows pretty white ; then add \ 267 sj 268 269 CAKES FOR BAKERS the rest of whites of egg by small quantities until it attains the disTredlighTness; On fondant and water-frosted cakes different colored fruit jellies, such as apple (white and pink), currant, apricot and green gage, when forced through a fine flour sieve, then run on to the cakes with a fine cornet, between the icing designs, Ca.Ke Top Side jBcr&er looks very rich if not overdone, also a judicious application of small silver dragees, or a few large, smooth. sugared almonds, white, pink or blue, place symmetrically between the designs, give a very good effect ; of course, if there were one hundred columns written and page after page drawn, the field would not be exhausted, as one design is an inspiration to the next 270 CAKES FOR BAKERS one, and so on, but the start is practice, experiment and perse- verance. These are the best teachers, with a good eye for form and design. Talent needs only a hint for development. Around the edge of the plate there are little sketches which ======:==::=======:==Trr _^^^^^ from the simplest out- "■ «— ^^^^^^=i^^=5==iafis ii n8S may be trans- _ __^_ V .- N ~^._^ formed into a great * rYYYYYYYYT variety of designs A, b, c and d show how A/^AArAAAA/^/^ some strai £ ht lines °f though in varied thick- nesses, may be used to •***™"*"*-"* good effect. In Fig. ^^^ — ^^^^—^ "i" is shown how a OQb cDG g)(s_dfo__^G_^ 6 £G &) foliage effect is drawn — - — -— ----- on a scro u by starting lightly close to line and under steady drawing ' ~ pressure swelled, then P<§^<^^ ( l ! J > ^^^.^£^.^^ ended t0 a point ' When ' '-" ~~~~~ — drawing a steady line or continuous vine- give e, and f, g, h, k- hold the cornet at leas three to four inche| ■ ^^^. /a^^^/Wl)^ above the board or — - - : -7%; , - -'-ss cake, that is, after you have started with a! point on the object. r\r\rsr SKELETON PIPING, NET AND SCROLL WORK Very nice decorations may be made with this kind of piping, but some practice in piping is required to carry out the designs in detail. For the making of large pieces — such as houses, castles, etc., and other straight-sided ornamental work made for the show window — combinations of nougat, gum paste or even supports of wood are used. The design is 271 CAKES FOR BAKERS 272 CAKES FOR BAKERS 273 CAKES FOR BAKERS CAKES FOR BAKERS 275 CAKES FOR BAKERS put together and covered with a thin-flowing icing, and when dry the piping is done to cover the supports. The objects to be piped are drawn on paper and laid under glass, or a baking pan is heated, rubbed over with white wax or paraffin and dusted with icing sugar, and the objects — such as scrolls, lat- tice or other designs — are drawn on. The design is then piped on with bag and tube and royal icing and left on the sheet to harden. It may then be easily removed by warming the sheet lightly, or simply by a slight jar. Then the objects may be set together with icing and small ornaments fastened on the cake with icing. An Easter Display B obbinet w ork is done in a similar way ; but there is less danger of breakage of the designs, because a white or pink jgau ze nettingjs used, an d the p iping is done on this netting. FoTsome piecesiTHelietting is_eu t close to the outlined o bjectT so as to make it invisible ; for other objects it is trimmed off closely with the scissors after the icingis__dry. VerjTfine lace work can be done to n1ake - cOTonets7anTarnmiber of fancy scrolls, rolls or cylinders can be made by piping th eobjects on the gauze. Lay it flat on the table, then lift it quickly 276 277 CAKES FOR BAKERS while soft, laying it on a bent tin, rolling it around a broom stick or rolling pin — in fact, at any angle or shape desirable. By having several pieces of tin bent in a variety of curves or angles a great many ornaments may be executed readily. For some kinds of work, such as large scrolls, handles of baskets and other work, piping o n both sides is requir ed, if both sides are seen. Other work, like baskets and outside pieces (such as roofs, etc.), requires no duplicating. The sides of houses, etc., which are piped in lattice fashion, are best made with a strong supporting edge piping, which gives good support to the fine lattice piping. When making large or small scrolls to be set together for centers of an ornamental cake, these pieces are best piped on both sides ; four or six are set together with icing. They may be placed upright around a center support which is set in the center of the cake. Large and small "S" and "C" scrolls may be set together in pyramid fashion, and the top finished with a few candy flowers and leaves in the form of a small bouquet. MAKING FLOWERS FROM ROYAL ICING, BOILED SUGAR OR GUM PASTE AND ALMOND PASTE There are special tubes which may be used to make flowers from royal icing. A pin-shaped nail with a flat or slightly concave head is made for this purpose, and may be bought from confectioners' supply houses. The icing is' put in the cornet with the special leaf tubes used for the different flowers; the pin is taken in the left hand, the cornet in the right hand ; the center of the rose is formed with a star tube in the center of the pin's head ; the leaves are formed with the leaf tube. With the different tubes the leaves are made in different shapes. The trick of making the rose leaves lies in the turning of the nail. The nails are prepared by brush- ing with melted wax or paraffin and when the flowers are made they are stuck in a board of soft wood and left to dry. Flowers and Leaves from Boiled Sugap Sugar is boiled to the hard crack (or about 315 degrees Fahr.), taking 6 pounds sugar, 1 pound glucose, 1 quart of water, or (leaving out the glucose) 1/2 teaspoonful of cream 278 CAKES FOR BAKERS of tartar. Pour out on the marble slab and when cool, cut in pieces. Melt a small portion on a slow fire. Use dry paste colors, and color each part of the sugar when the sugar is melted on the oiled slab. This work must be done near the gas stove or near the oven door, to keep the sugar in a pliable condition. Take a small part of the sugar and form in petals of flowers, cutting the shape with the scissors and pulling and shaping it with the fingers. After making the different sizes of petals they are formed and fastened around a center, to represent roses, tulips, calla lilies and other flowers and buds. For the leaves a part of the sugar is colored green, and the stems may be imitated with chocolate color. The petals may be made from yellow-colored sugar or from gum paste and then fastened by heating on the fire. To imitate nature, the flowers may be touched up and painted with a small camel's hair brush. Flowers may also be made from gum paste or from decorative almond paste, colored and molded by hand into leaves, and put together like flowers made from candy. Spun Sugar and Web Sugar This sugar is prepared in the same manner as for flowers and leaves. Scroll ornaments — vases and baskets and other large fancy pieces — are made from this sugar. Molds are used for vases and baskets and run on the inside or on the outside of the oiled forms in the form of lace work or lattice, and when almost cold or before it sets too hard, it is taken off the forms. For scrolls and handles, etc., the design is run on a pane of glass under which the paper design is placed, or the design is drawn first on the marble slab, oiled, and the sugar is poured on. The melted sugar is placed in a bowl-shaped spoon with a long spout, and the flow of the sugar is regu- lated by raising or lowering the spoon. The thickness of the thread depends on the state of the sugar. Complicated pieces are made in sections, which are put together when perfectly cold, and fastened together with sugar boiled to the caramel degree. The pieces may be further decorated with royal icing and candied fruit ; other fruits, like grapes or cherries, may be dipped in sugar boiled to the caramel degree. Almonds and other nuts or slices of orange, etc., may be used to deco- 279 CAKES FOR BAKERS rate or fill the baskets. A good eye is essential in making fancy pieces of this kind ; certain lines of gracefulness must be studied ; dimensions and distances must be carefully observed in the various designs. Observation and love for art are the best teachers, and with application and patience a baker need not be a great draughtsman or sculptor to do this work. 280 INDEX PAGE Aerating Agents 15 Albumen and Gum Icing 206 Alexander Cheese Tartelet... 113 Alliance Tart 116 Alliance Torte 75 Almonds, Blanching 164 Almond Bars 136, 158 Almond Bread 131 Chocolate 131 Almond Buns, 185 Almond Butter Cream 212 Almond Cake 27 Almond Chantilly Filling 216 Almond Cocoanut Macaroons. 153 Almond Cookies 136 Almond Crescents 158 Almond Fingers 158, 161 Almond Filling 181 Almond Half Moons. . .144, 158, 168 Almond Flavor Oil 25 Almond Kisses 170 Almond Macaroons 153 Almond Marzipan Paste. .107,260 Almond Mocha 212 Almond Paste 106, 278 Almond Paste Filling, Soft. . . 181 Almond Paste Goods 114, 164 Almond Short Paste 106 Almond Slices 160 Almond Souffles 145 Almond Stollen 179 Almond Strips 140, 159 Almond Torte 74 Almond Wafers 140 Almond Zwieback 187 Altitude, Effects of 14 Alumnettes 121 American Cheese Filling, Tarts 116 American Layer Mixtures .... 69 American Sultana Scones.... 198 American Tart Mixtures 69 Ammonia 16 Angel Cakes 64 Angel Pistachio Filling 216 Anise Drops or Fingers 143 Anise Zwieback 187 Apple Boats 110 Apple Chantilly 110 Apple Cream Tarts 110 Apple Filling 218 Apple Fruit Cake 52 PAGE Apple Jelly and Jam 234 Apple, Pastries 109 French us Apple Tart no French HO Apricot Pie 224 Apricotine Filling 218 Artificial Honey 146 Ascot Tarts H6 Assorted Nut Cakes 81 Baking of Puff Pastry 98 Baking Periods 22 Baking Powder 15 Baking Powder Tea Biscuit. . . 198 Baking Temperatures 20 Banana Pie 230 Bars Almond 136 Cocoanut 136, 138 Nut 136 Bath Buns 202 Batons Amandes 158 Royal 121 Berlin Filling 217 Berlin Fruit Filling 182 Berry Pies, Dried 222 Fresh • 222 Binders and Fillers, Ice Creams 243 Birthday Cakes 44 Biscuits, Baking Powder Tea. 198 Yeast-raised 174 Bismarcks 195 Bisque Ice Cream 238 Black Walnut Block 33, 83 Black Walnut Cake 83 Blanching Almonds 164 Block Cakes 33, 83 Blueberry Pie 223 Boats, Apple 110 Bobbinet Work 276 Boiled Chocolate Icing 208 Boiled Icing 208 Boiled Sugar Decorations .... 278 Bolivars 133 Bombes Cerises 157 Bombes Chocolate 157 Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate. 159 Bonne Bouchee a la Creme. ... 159 Boston Cream Pie 230 Boston Lunch Cake 52 Bouchee Cerises 157 INDEX— 'Continued PAGE Bouchee Chocolate 157 Bouchee Citron 157 Bouchee de Oranges 157 Bouchee Macedoine 157 Bourbon Condes 121 Bowl Mixtures 55,65, 94 Yellow 56 Box Cakes 26 Standard Mixtures 31 White 26 Yellow 30 Bran Cookies 135 Brandy Snaps — Wafers 142 Braunschweiger Honey Cake . . 147 Brazil Nut Cake 83 Brick Ice Creams 241 Bride's Cake, White 40 Bridge Buns 202 Brooklyn Bridge Buns 202 Brown Cookies 130, 131 Buckinghams 122 Bundkuchen 178 Bun Doughs 181, 185, 201 Spice Flavoring for 184 Buns, Almond 185 Bath 202 Bridge 202 Brooklyn Bridge 202 Citron 185 Cocoanut 201 Cream 163 Currant 184 Hot Cross 184 Jelly 201 Lemon 185,201 Orange 185 Peanut 185 Pecan Butter 180 Philadelphia Butter 189 Pineapple 185 Plain Sweet Dough for... 181 Rice 201 Raspberry 201 Self-Raising Flour for... 201 Streusel 185 Sultana 184, 201 Burnt Almond Ice Cream .... 237 Burnt Sugar Coloring 209 Butter 254 Butter Buns, Pecan 189 Philadelphia 189 Butter Cream Cakes 125 Butter Cr.eam , Fillings 212 Almond 212 Chocolate 212 Coffee 212 New York 212 PAGE Vienna 212 Butter Flavor Oils 24, 25 Butter Jumbles 155 Butter Rings 139 Butter Sponge Cake 62 Bowl Mixture 62, 65 Cold Mixture 62 Warm Mixture 62 Tart Cake 70 Layers 70 Vienna 62 Butter Streusel 183 Buttermilk Crullers 194 Buttermilk Fried Cakes 194 Butterscotch Cookies 153 Butterscotch Pie 229 Butterscotch Wafers 142 Cairo Filling : 217 Cake Covering, Marzipan. . . . 107 Cake Machines 19 Cake Materials, Buying 253 Cake Making Don'ts 253 Cake Pans 23 Cakes for Large Institutions. 93 Cakes for Special Occasions . . 38 Canned Fruit, for Pies 221 Camelina Filling 216 Caramel Coloring 209 Caramel Filling 216 Caramel Icing 206 Carnival Tartelet Cases 107 Double 108 Fried 196 Meringue 172 Ready-made 109 Roman 196 Single 108 Tart 107,172 Cats' Tongues 140 Champagne Strips or Wafers. 140 Chantilly Cream Slice 161 Chantilly Filling, Almond 216 Charleston Filling 217 Cheese Cake 188 English H3 Cheese Cake Filling, Plain. ... 113 Cheese Filling 183 Cheese Tart, English 113 German H5 Cheese Tartlet, Alexander.... 113 Cherry Cakes 30 Cherry Pie 223 Mock 223 Cherry Tartlets Ill Chocolate Almond Bread 131 Choc. Almond Cake, French . . 68 INDEX-^Continued PAGE Chocolate Block Cake 30 Chocolate Bonne Bouchee. .157, 159 Chocolate Centers 263, 266 Chocolate Cocoanut Macaroons 168 Chocolate Cookies 135 Chocolate Cream Cakes 70 Chocolate Cream Pie 229 Chocolate Cup Cake 85 Chocolate Custard Pie 227 Chocolate Drops 142 Chocolate Honey Cake 149 Chocolate Ice Cream 236 Chocolate Icing 206, 208 Chocolate Jumbles 139 Chocolate Macaroons 163 Chocolate Macaroon Tarts .... 114 Chocolate Macaroon Torte .... 74 Chocolate Meringue 170 Chocolate Mocha . . . : 79, 212 Chocolate Mocha Cake 79 Chocolate Roll 55 Sacher Mixture 69 Chocolate Sauce, Cold 239 Chocolate Slices , 160 Chocolate Souffles 145 Chocolate Sponge Cakes 64 Chocolate Stock Icing 206 Chop Suey (Tutti Frutti) Cake 90 Choux (Cream Buns) 162 Choux Farcis 163 Christmas Cakes 48, 144 Christmas Fruit Cakes 50 Cinnamon Sticks 144 Cinnamon Streusel Coffee cake 187 Citron Buns 185 Citron Meringue 170 Citron Pound Cake 36 Citronettes 117 Cobblestones (Pflastersteine) . 150 Cocoanut Bars 136 Eggless 137 Cocoanut Buns 201 Cocoanut Cookies 135 Cocoanut Cream Pie 228 Cocoanut Crescents 130, 168 Cocoanut Custard Pie 227 Cocoanut Drops 144, 154 Cocoanut Drop Cookies 138 Cocoanut Fingers 161 Cocoanut Kisses 169 Soft 170 Cocoanut Macaroons 168 Macaroons, Almond 153 Chocolate 168 Cold Mixture 169 PAGE Cocoanut Macaroon Tart 114 Cocoanut Meringue, Jellied . . . 170 Cocoanut Pudding 232 Cocoanut Slices 160 Coco-Butters 138 Coffee-Cake Doughs 176, 181 Coffee-Cakes 187 Fruit 187 Coffee Cookies 15*3 Coffee Ice Cream 236 Coffee Mocha Cream 212 Coloring, Burnt Sugar 209 Colors for Icings 209 Combination Fruit Pies 230 Commercial Apple Jelly 234 Commercial Cakes 33 Cone Wafers, Ice Cream 142 Cones, Swedish Rolled 141 Confectioners' Short Pastes . . 106 Congress Tart Fillings 114 Cookies or Hard Cakes 128 Machine-made 152 Corn Syrup Cookies 156 Cornucopias 119 Cranberry Pie 223 Cream Baskets 159 Cream Buns 163 Cream Cakes, Chocolate 70 Cream Drops, Vanilla 143 Cream Fingers 185 Cream of Tartar 15 Cream Pies, Boston 230 Pies, Chocolate 229 Pies, Cocoanut 228 Pies, Fruit 229 Pies, Washington 230 Cream Puffs 101, 162 Pastes for 100 With Whipped Cream 163 Cream Rolls 119, 185, 186 Twisted 186 Cream Scones . . . 199 Cream Slices 118, 161 Cream Tarts, Apple 110 Lemon 117 Cream Wafers 141 Crescents 120 Almond 158 Cocoanut 130, 168 Crescent Rolls 186, 191 Croix de Malta 122 Croquant Paste 104 Crullers or Spritzkuchen 102 Buttermilk 194 Hand-made 194 Crumb Cakes 90 INDEX— Continued PAGE Fruit 90 Lincoln 93 Molasses 89 Oriental Fruit 89 Washington 93 Crumb Cookies 133, 152 Eggless 130 Ginger Snaps 139 Crumb Filling, Soft 181 Crumb Layer Cakes 89 Crumb Pies -93 Crumb Rings, Spiced 140 Crumb Tarts, Spiced 117 Fillings 89,114 Crushed Fruit Fillings 219 Cup Cakes 27,92,93,252 Cup Cakes, Chocolate 85 Crumb 90 Crumb Spice 85 Jellied 85 Lunch 84 Orange 84 Spiced 85 Vanilla 84 Currant Buns 184 Custard or Pastry Cream .... 213 Custard Pies 226 Bottom Crust 100 Chocolate 227 Cocoanut 227 Dairy Cream Pie 229 Danish Pastries 177, 190 Danish Pastry Dough 177 Darioles 124 Dark Fruit Bars 136 Dark Fruit Cake 36 N , 49 Dark Fruit Cookies 134 Date Pudding 232 Decorating Cakes 257 Decorations, Meringue and Paste 260 Decorative Paste, Almond, Marzipan 107 Delicate Cake 28 Demi-Lunes Amandes . 130, 158, 168 Desdemonas and Othellos .... 157 Devil's Food Cake 79 Dietetic Bran Wafers 142 Displaying Small Goods. . .252, 256 Dominoes 144 Don'ts — Cake Baking and Making 253 Doughs, Bun 181, 185, 201 Coffee Cake Special 176 Honey 146 Quickly Made Pastry 177 Rolled in Pastry 176 PAGE Standard Sweet 175 Yeast-raised 174 Zwieback 180 Doughnuts, Yeast-raised 195 Dresden Torte 72 Dried Berry Pie with Filler. . 222 Dried Fruit, Pie Stock 221,222 Drop Cakes 85, 137 Chocolate 142 Drop Cakes, Ginger 137 Molasses 137 Spice Sponge 137 Yellow 138 Drop Cookies, Cocoanut 138 Drops, Anise 143 Chocolate 142 Cocoanut 144, 154 Patience 143 Rose 143 Vanilla Cream 143 White 143 Duchess Cake, White 81 Duchess Torte 72 Dutch Macaroons 166 Easter Eggs, Meringue 171 Eclairs 162 Eclair Farcis 163 Eggless Cake Mixtures 156 Eggless Cocoanut Bars 137 Eggless Crumb Cookies 130 Eggless Gingerbread 87 With Crumbs 87 Eggless Ginger Snaps 139 Eggless Jumbles 139 Eggless Marshmallow Filling. 211 Eggs and Their Use 12 Elisen Lebkuchen 149 English Cheese Cake 113 English Cheese Tarts 113 English Lemon Butter 214 English Muffins 200 English Sultana Scones 199 English Walnut Cake 33, 83 Florentines 122 Fancy Cakes 249 Fancy Cakes, Small. . .127, 142, 157 Fancy Kisses 169 Fancy Macaroons 166 Fancy Macaroon Paste 105 Fancy Scones 199 Fancy Slices and Strips 160 Fans 120 Fig Bars 130 Fig Newtons 130 Fig Pudding 232 INDEX-^Continued , PAGE Figures and Animals 151 Honey Dough for 151 Patience 143 Filbert Ice Cream 238 Filbert Meringues 170 Filbert Tart 114 Filled Fruit Rings 188, 191 Filled Honey Cakes 150 Filled Rings 188 Fillers, Ice Cream 243 Pie 220 Fillings and Icings 203 Fillings for Cakes.. 81, 203, 212,213 Fillings, Household 216 Filling for Honey Cakes 150 Ready-to-Use 209 Fillings, Pie 221 Fillings, Yeast-Raised Dough. 181 Finger Biscuits 60 Fingers, Almond 158, 161 Anise 143 Cocoanut 161 Cream . . .' 185 Lady 60 Macaroon 166 Finishing Rolls, Many Ways 56 Finishing Tarts and Layer Cakes 71 Flavoring of Fruit Pies' 221 Flavorings 24 Fleurons and Rosettes 122 Florodora Filling 215 Floral Meringues 172 Florence Cake — white or yel- low 80 Florentines 122 Flour, Self-Raising 16, 201 Flours, Variation in 11 Flour-Batter Method 18 Flower Decorations, Making . . 278 Fondant Making 204 Imitation 205 Form Cakes 178 Freezing Ice Cream 242 French Apple Tarts 110 French Chocolate Almond Cake 68 French Chocolate 68 French Fried Cakes 102 French Gateau Mixtures 65 French Honey Cake 148 French Macaroon Tart 115 French Macaroon Torte 75 French Pastries 118 French Pastry Dough 177, 190 Fresh Fruit Pies 222 Fried Cakes 192 PAGE Fried Cakes, Buttermilk 194 French 102,195 Hand-Made 194 Machine-Made 194 Vienna 195 Yeast-Raised 192, 195 Fried Cases 196 Fried Spring Waffles 196 Frozen Fruit Salad 241 Frozen Puddings 239 Frozen Punches 241 Fruit and Nut Filling 182 Fruit and Nut Rolls 189 Fruit Bars, Dark 136 Fruit Bars, Lemon 136 Fruit Bars, Oriental 137 With Crumbs 136 Fruit Cakes 36, 41, 50 Apple 52 Crumb 90 Dark 36, 49 Heavy 36 Light 36, 52 Low Priced 52, 94 Mixed 53 Standard 50 With Dry Milk 51 With Molasses 51, 88 Fruit, Coffee-Cakes 187 Fruit Cookies 130, 132, 153 Dark 134 Fruit Cream Pie 229 Fruit Crumb Cake, Oriental . . 89 Fruit Fillings 183 Crushed 219 With Gelatine 218 With Nuts 182,183,218 Fruit Glacing 183 Fruit Ices and Sherbets 239 Fruit Jam 234 Fruit Loaf, Molasses 51, 52, 88 Fruit, Macedoine of 241 Fruit, Modeling 167 Fruit Pies 221 Combination 230 Flavoring 221 Fruit Salad, Frozen 241 Fruit Sherbet 239 Fruit Slab, Standard 32 Fruit Tarts Ill Fruit Puddings 232 Fruit Rings, Filled 189, 191 Fruits, Modeled 167 Gateaux Cerises ( Cherry Cakes) 158 Gateau or Genoa Slab 66 INDEX^Continued PAGE General Suggestions 11 Genoa Cake 52 Slab 66 Sultana 53 With Fruit 66 Gingerbreads 86 Crumb 87 Eggless 87 Loaf 88 Raisin 88 Southern 87 Ginger Cakes 88 Ginger Cookies 133, 155 Ginger Drop Cakes 137 Ginger Drops, Soft 137 Ginger Nuts, Fine 131 Ginger Poundcake 88 Ginger Snaps 155 To Drop Out 13S With Crumbs, Eggless... 139 Glacings, Cake 183 Fruit 183 Macaroons 106 Gold Cake 32 Golden Cake 32 Golden Rod Cake 84 Golden Rolls 185 Gooseberry Pie 222 Graham Cookies 135 Grand Duchess Cake 81 Gum Icing 206 Gum Paste 104, 278 Half Moons 144, 158, 168 Hamburg Zwieback 186 Hand-Made Fried Cakes 194 Hand-Made Crullers 19 1 Hand Mixing 17 Hard Cakes '. . . . 128 Hard Fancy Cakes, Small.... 142 Hazelnut (Filbert) Ice Cream 238 Hazelnut Tart 114 Hermits 134, 137 Hickory Nut Cake 37 Honey, Artificial 146 Honey Cakes 145 Braunschweiger 147 Iced 154 Cakes, Chocolate 149 Cakes, Filled 150 Filling 150 French 148 Macaroon 150 Spice Mixture for 146 Swiss 148 Thick 147 Honey Cookies 133 PAGE Imitation 134 Honey Doughs 146, 147 Honey and Sugar Doughs.... 147 Honey Dough for Figures. . . . 151 Honey Jumbles 153 Honey Wafers 142 Horseshoes 120 Hot Cross Buns 184 Hot Water Sponge Cake 62 Household Fillings 216 Hungarian Zwieback 187 Ice Creams and Ices 236 Binders and Fillers 243 Cream Cake 37 Cone Wafers 142 Freezing 242 Freezing Mixture 242 Sandwich Wafers 141 Standard Formulas 236 Iced Honey Cakes 154 Icings 203 Albumen 206 Boiled 208 Caramel 206 Chocolate 206, 208 Colors for 209 Fondant 204 Gum 206 Maple 207 Marble 82 Royal 208 Special 209 Stock 204 Sugarless 156 Water 207 White Stock 205 Imitation Fondant 205 Imitation Honey Cookies 134 Individual Cakes, Small 84 Invert Sugar Honey 146 Irish Sodas 199 Jam Making 233 Jam Roll 189 Jellied Cocoanut Meringue. . . 170 Jellied Cup Cakes 85 Jellied Pie 229 Jellies 232 Jelly Balls, Yeast-Raised 195 Jelly Buns 201 Jelly Macaroons 165 Jelly Rings 139 Jelly Roll 54, 91 Low-Priced 94 Jumbles 138 Butter 155 Chocolate 139 INDEX-^Continued PAGE Eggless 139 Honey 153 Mixed 155 Molasses 155 "S" 139 Spiced 155 Vanilla 139 Wafer 140 Kernel Paste Tarts 114 King of Cakes 77 Kisses, Almond 170 Cocoanut 169 ■ Cocoanut, Soft 170 Pistachio : 170 Lady Baltimore Cake 44, 80 Lady Baltimore Filling 217 Lady Cake .. : 42 Lady Cake with Fruit 41 Lady Fingers 60 Large Cakes 33 Layer Cakes 54, 70, 80, 91, 92 American Mixtures 69 Butter Sponge 70 Crumb 89 Finishing 71 Small 27 Special Mixtures 65 Sponge 91 White 29 Yellow 91 Lebkuchen, Elisen 149 Nuremberg 148 White 149 Leckerle, Nuremberg 148 Lemon Buns ". 185,201 Lemon Butter, English 214 Lemon Cookies 132, 155 Lemon Cream Tarts 117 Lemon Cream Torte 73 Lemon Filling 214 Lemon Flavor Oil 25 Lemon Fruit Bars 136 Lemon Ice, Standard 239 Lemon Macaroons 165 Lemon Pies 227 Covered 228 Cream 228 Lemon Pudding 232 Lemon Sherbet 240 Lemon Snaps 138 Lemon Wafers 140 Light Cookies 152 Light Fruit Cake 52 Lincoln Crumb Cake or Pie. . 93 Line Ornamenting 266 PAGE Loaf Cakes 26, 92 Small 27, 53 White 28 Log Cabin Cookies 134 London Filling 217 Low-Priced Cakes 93 Lunch Cakes, Boston 52 Lunch Cup Cakes 84 Lunch Room Rolls 57 Macaroons 164 Macaroons, Chocolate 165 Chocolate Cocoanut 168 Cocoanut 153,168 Dutch 166 Fancy 166 Glazing for 106 Jelly 165 Lemon 165 Orange 165 Plain 164 Macaroon Fingers 166 Macaroon Honey Cake 150 Macaroon Pastes 104 Tarts 114 Macaroon Torte 74 Almond Paste 114 Chocolate 74 French 75 Macedoine, Bouchee 157 Macedoine of Fruit 241 Machine-Dropped Fried Cakes 194 Machine-Made Cookies 152 Machine Mixing 17 Machine Sponge Cake 62 Machines, Cake 19 Madeira Cake 53 Madelines 158 Maltese Cross 122 Maple Icing 207 Mapleine Filling 218 Marble Cake 27, 81 Marble Icing 82 Marguerite Filling 218 Torte 73 Marshmallow Filling 210 Eggless 211 Slices 162 Martha Washington Pie 230 Marzipan Paste 107 Almond 107,260 Modeled Fruits 167 Materials, Buying 11, 253 Materials, Temperature 254 Medallions and Chocolate Cen- ters 263 INDEX^Continued PAGE Meringues and Fancy Kisses. . 169 Meringue Animals and Figures 172 Meringue Apples and Pears . . 170 Meringue Baskets 171 Meringue, Chocolate 170 Citron 170 Cocoanut 170 Decorating 260 Easter Eggs 171 Filbert 170 Floral 172 Jellied Cocoanut 170 Orange 170 Meringue Pastes 102 Heavy Boiled 103, 104 Hot 103 Light Boiled 103 Standard Cold 103 Meringue Shells 171 Meringue Slices 162 Meringue Tarts 172 Meringue Tart Cases 172 Meringue Torte 75 Metropolitan Tart 115 Metropolitan Torte 73 Mille Feuille 122 Mincemeats 224 Mock : 225 Mince Pie 224 Mirlitons 124 Miscellaneous Cakes 77 Mixed Fruit Cake 53 Mixed Jumbles 155 Mixing, Hand or Machine .... 17 Mixing of Fried Cakes 193 Mixing Pie Crusts 99 Mocha Creams 79, 212 Mocha Cream Cakes 78, 125 Mocha, New York 212 Mocha Slices 160, 161 Mocha Torte 72 Mock Cherry Pie 223 Mock Mince Pie 225 Modeled Fruits 167 Modeling Paste 167 Small Cakes From 167 Molasses Cakes 86 Molasses Cookies 132 Molasses Crumb Cake 89 Molasses Cup Cake 88 Molasses Drop Cakes 137 Molasses Fruit Loaf... 51, 52, 88 Molasses Jumbles 155 Monte Carlos 121 Mousseline Sauce 239 Muffins, English 200 Mushrooms 171 PAGE Napoleons 118 Neapolitan Cake 65, 76, 84 Neapolitan Filling 217 Nesselrode Ice Cream 238 Net and Scroll Work 271 New York Ice Cream 237 New York Mocha Butter Cream 212 Noisettes 117 Nougat Ice Cream 237 Nuremberg Lebkuchen 148 Nuremberg Leckerle 148 Nut Bars 136 Nut Block Cakes 33 Nut Cake Mixture for Torten 68 Nut Cakes, Assorted 81 Brazil, etc 83 Nut Fillings 181, 182, 185 Nut Fillings, Fruit 182 Spiced 181 Torten 75 Nut Poundcakes 37 Nut Roll 189 Nut Roll, with Fruit 189 Nut Slab 30 Nut Slices 160 Nut Torte 74 Oatmeal Cookies 132 Spiced 154 Ohio Orange Cake 63 Oils for Flavoring 25 Open Fruit Tarts 112 Orange Buns 185 Orange Cakes, Ohio 63 Orange Cup Cake 64 Orange Flavor Oil 25 Orange Macaroons 165 Orange Meringue 170 Orange Cream Torte 73 Orange Cream Pie 228 Orange Filling 214 Orange Pies 227 Orange Poundcake 37 Orange Pudding 232 Orange Torte, Special 74 Orange Water Ice (Sherbet) . . 240 Oriental Cocoanut Drops 154 Oriental Fruit Bars 137 Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake.. 89 Ornamental Work 257 Ornamenting, Line 266 Othellos and Desdemonas 157 Palm Leaves 120 Panier Chantilly (Cream Bas- kets) 159 Panier en Genoise 159 INDEX-^Continued PAGE Pans for Cake Baking 23 Parisienne Torte 73 Parisiennes 120 Parmesans 123 Paste, Almond Marzipan 260 Almond Short 106 Confectioners' 106 Croquant 104 Gum 104 Kernel 114 Macaroon 104, 164 Making 95 Marzipan 107 Meringue 102 Modeling 167 Puff 96 Short 106 Tragacanth 104 Pastes for Borders 102 Pastes for Cream Puffs 101 Pastillage 104 Pastry Cream for Pilling 213 Pastry Doughs, Danish 177 French -. . 177 Puff, Making of 95 Rolled-in 176 Swedish 177 Yeast-raised 174 Patience Drops or Figures .... 143 Patty Shells 107 Double Case 108 Single case 108 Peach Ice 240 Peach Pie 224 Peach Meringue Pie 230 Peanut Buns 185 Peanut Cookies 135 Peanut Slices 131 Peach Carnival 112 Pecan Butter Rolls 189 Pecan Cake 83 Peppernuts 150, 151 Pflastersteine 150 Philadelphia Butter Buns 189 Phosphate Powders 16 Pies and Pie Making 220 Pie. a la Mode ■ 230 Pie Crusts, mixing 99 Pie Doughs, Making 98 Pie Fillers 220 Pie Fillings 221 Pie Paste, Bottom Crusts 100 Pie Paste, Top Crust 99 Pie Paste, Mixing 99 Pie Stock, Dried Fruit. . . .221, 222 Canned Fruit 221 TAGE Pineapple Buns 185 Pineapple Cake Filling 215 Pineapple Ice (Sherbet) 240 Pineapple Pies 224 Cream 228 Meringue 228 and Strawberry Pie 224 Piping, Skeleton 271 Pistachio Filling, Angel 216 Pistachio Ice Cream 238 Pistachio Kisses 170 Pistachio Nut Cakes 83 Plain Sweet Dough for Buns . . 181 Plum Puddings 231 Frozen 239 Poppy Seed Fillings 182 Poppy Seed Tarts 116 Poundcakes 33, 34 Citron 36 Ginger 88 Nut 37 Old-time 35 Orange 37 Plain 37 Special 35 Sultana 37 White 42 Poundcake with Milk 35 with ' Baking Powder 35 Preparing Cakes for Sale 247 Preparing Rhubarb 224 Preserving 232 Pressburg Zwieback 187 Pretzels or Figures of Eight 120, 189 Prince Henry Layer Cake 80 Princess Fruit Filling 183 Prune Pie 222 Puddings 231 Frozen 239 Fruit 232 Plum 232, 239 Royal 239 Puff Paste making. 95 Quickly Made 97 Trimmings 98 Puff, Small Pastry Baking of . . 98 Pumpkin Pies 226 Fresh and with Dry Milk. 226 Punches, Frozen 241 Queen Torte 72 Quickly-made Pastry Dough. . 177 Quickly-made Puff Paste 97 Raisin Coffeecake 188 INDEX-^Continued PAGE Raisin Gingerbread 88 Raisin Pie Filling 222 Raspberry Buns 201 Raspberry Ice 240 Raspberry Meringue Tart. . . . 172 Ready-made Cases 109 Ready-to-use Fillings 209 Rhubarb Pie 223 Preparing Filling 224 Richelieus 121 Richelieu Tart 117 Rice Buns 201 Rings, Filled Fruit 189, 191 Rings, Jelly 139 Rings, Twisted 139 Rissoles 119, 190 Roll Cakes 54 Chocolate 55 Finishing 56 Lunch Room 57 Sponge 55, 91 Swiss 55 Rolled-in Pastry Dough 176 Rolled Wafers 140, 142 Rolls Cream 185, 186 Crescent 186, 191 Golden 185 Jam 189 Nut and Fruit 189 Pecan Butter 189 Philadelphia Butter 189 Swedish 190 Turkish 191 Roman Cases 196 Rose Drops 143 Rose Souffles 145 Rosettes 122 Rough-and-Readys 134 Round Coffee Cake 188 Royal Batons 121 Royal Cake 77 Royal Ice Cream 239 Royal Icing 208, 278 Royal Pudding . 239 "S" Jumbles 139 Sacher Mixture, Swiss Choc. . 69 Salt Pretzels Sand Cakes 67 Heavy Mixture 68 Light Mixture 68 Torten 67 Sauce Mousseline 239 Scotch Cookies 153 Scotch Shortbread 129 Scones, American Sultana.... 198 Cream 199 PAGE English Sultana 199 Fancy 199 Fancy Sultana 200 Scotch 199 Self -Raising Flour 199 Tea 200 Scotch Scones (Irish Sodas) . . 199 Scrolls 191 Scroll Work 271 Selection of Materials 11 Self-Raising Flour 16 for Buns 201 Selling Cakes 256 Sheet Cakes 70, 93 Sherbets, Fruit 239 Shortbreads, Scotch 129 Small Fancy 129 Shortcake 92 Biscuit Mixture 93 Shortenings 14, 254 Short Pastes for Tarts 106 Almond 106 Confectioners 106 Short . Paste, Small Fancy Cakes 127, 157 Silver Cake 26, 81 Silver Slice 26 Simple Syrup 244 Single Case Patty 108 Skeleton Piping 271 Slab Cakes 26 Cherry 30 Nut 30 Small 27, 66 Standard Fruit 32 White Fruit 30 Yellow 91 Slices, Almond 160 Chocolate 160 Cocoanut 160 Cream 118, 161 Fancy 160 Macaroon 161 Marshmallow 162 Meringue 162 Mocha 160, 161 Nut 160 Peanut 131 Small Fancy Cakes 127, 157 Modeling Paste 167 Short Paste 127 Small Fancy Shortbreads 129 Small Goods, Displaying 252 Small Hard Fancy Cakes 142 Small Puff Pastries and Tarts 123 Snails 191 Snaps, Jumbles and Wafers. . 138 INDEX— Continued PAGE Snaps, Ginger 138, 139 Lemon 138 Soda, Bicarbonate of 15 Sodas, Irish 199 Soft Almond Paste Filling 181 Soft Cocoanut Kisses 170 Soft Crumb Pilling 181 Soft Ginger Cookies 133 Soft Ginger Drops 137 Souffles, Almond 145 Chocolate 145 Rose 145 Vanilla 143 Southern Gingerbread 87 Spanish Box Cake 32 Spanish Cookies 135 Special Butter Cream Fillings 212 Special Cakes 38 Special Coffeecake Doughs . . . 176 Special Icings 209 Special Layer Cake Mixtures . . 65 Special Orange Torts 74 Special Pies 229 Special Poundcake 35 Special Tart Mixtures 65 Spiced Crumb Rings 140 Spiced Crumb Tarts 117 Spiced Cup Cakes 85, 88 with Crumbs 85 Spice Drop Cakes 137 Spice Flavoring, Buns 184 Spiced Jumbles 155 Spice Mixtures for Cakes. .25, 146 Spiced Molasses Fruit Crumb Cake 89 Spiced Nut Filling 181 Spiced Oatmeal Cookies 154 Sponge Cake ' 58 Butter Sponge 62 Chocolate Sponge, Bowl Mixture 63, 64 Hot Water 62 Machine made 62 Plain 61 Small 127 Victory 63 Water 61 Sponge Drop Cakes 86 Sponge Layer Cake 91 Sponge Roll 55, 91 Springerle .' 144 Spritzkuchen 102 Spun Sugar 279 Squash Pies 226 Standard Box Cake Mixtures. . 31 Standard Christmas Cake 50 Standard Fruit Pudding 232 PAGE Standard Fruit Slabs 32 Standard Formulas, Ice Cream 236, 237 Standard Lemon Water Ice. . . 239 Standard Spice Mixture, Honey Cakes 146 Standard Sweet Doughs 175 St. Honore Tart 102, 115 Sticks, Cinnamon 144 Stock Doughs, Coffeecake. 176, 181 Honey 146 Stock Icings 204 Stollen 179, 188 Almond 179 Best Grade 179 German 179 How to Make 179 Plain Sweet Dough 180 Storks Nests 196 Strawberry Ice 240 Strawberry Meringue Pie 230 Strawberry Meringue Tart... 172 Strawberry and Pineapple Pie 224 Strawberry Shortcake 92 Strawberry Tartlets Ill Streusel 183 Buns 185 Coffeecake ' 187 Strips, Almond 140, 159 Champagne 140 Fancy 160 Macaroon 161 Sugar, Spun 279 Web 279 Sugar- Boiling Degrees 244 Sugar Cookies 131, 152 Sugar Honey 146 Sugarless Cookie's (Corn , Syrup) 156 Sugarless Icing 156 Sugars and Syrups 13 Suggestions, General 11 Sultana Buns 184, 201 Sultana Genoa Cake 53 Sultana Poundcake 37 Sultana Scones 198, 199, 200 Sunshine Cakes 64 Swedish Pastries 177, 190 Swedish Pastry Dough. 177 Swedish Rolls 190 Swedish Rolled Wafers, Cones 141 Sweet Doughs, Standard 175 Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mix- ture 69 Swiss Honey Cake 148 Swiss Roll 55 Syrup Cookies 156 INDEX^Continued PAGE Syrup Crumb Cookies 152 Syrups 13, 236, 244 Talmouses 123 Tapioca Pie Filler 220 Tarts and Tartlets Ill American Mixtures 69 Apple 110 Apple Cream 110 Ascot 116 Congress Fillings 89, 114 Finishing 71 Lemon Cream 117 Cases 107, 172 Cheese 113, 115, 116 Macaroon 74 Mixtures 65 Nut Mix for 68, 74 Open Fruit 112 Pastes 102, 106 Poppy Seed 116 Queen 72 Richelieu 117 Short Paste for 106 Small 106 Special Mixtures 65 Tin and Forms . . .' 71 Tumble 116 Vienna Mixtures 66 Tartlet, Alexander Cheese.... 113 Carnival Ill Strawberry Ill Tart Paste for Borders 102 Tea Biscuits, Baking Powder. . 198 Yeast-raised 198 Tea Cookies 136 Tea Scone 200 Temperatures, Baking 20 For Honey Materials 254 Timbales, or Fried Cases 196 Torten 72, 188 a la Conde 73 Alliance 75 Almond 74 Chocolate 74 Dresden 72 Duchess 72 Lemon Cream 73 Macaroon 73, 74 Marguerite 73 Meringue 75 Metropolitan 73 Mocha 72 Nut 74, 75 Nut Cake Mixture 68 Orange Cream 73 Parisienne 73 PAG*. Queen , 72 Sand 67 Special Orange 74 Tragacanth Paste 104 Tumble Tarts 116 Turkish Rolls 191 Turk's Heads 178 Turnovers 119, 190 Tutti Frutti Cake 80, 90 Tutti Frutti Ice Cream 238 Twisted Cream Rolls 186 Twisted Rings 188 Twists, Scrolls and Snails 191 Universal Cookie Mixture .... 131 Vanilla Cream Drops 143 Vanilla Cup Cake 84 Vanilla Jumbles 139 Vanilla Cream Souffles 143 Vanilla Wafers, White 140 Variation in Flours 11 Victoria Tart 115 Victory Sponge Cake 63 Vienna Butter Cream 212 Vienna Butter Sponge 62 Vienna Fried Cakes 195 Vienna Tart Mixture 66 Vienna Zwieback 186 Wafers 138 Almond 140 Champagne 140 Cream 141 Dietetic Bran 142 Honey 142 Ice Cream Sandwich 141 Lemon 140 Rolled 140, 142 Swedish Rolled 141 Walnut 141 White Vanilla 140 Wafer Jumbles 140 Wafer Paper for Baking 159 Waffles, Fried Spring 196 Walnut Block, English 33, 83 Walnut Cakes 33, 37, 83 Walnut Wafers 141 Washington Cake 89 Washington Cream Pie 230 Washington Crumb Cake or Pie 93 Washington Pie, Martha Water Icing 207 Water Sponge Cake 62 Web Sugar 279 Wedding Cakes 38 Whipped Cream Filling 215 INDEX— -Continued PAGE White Box Cake 26 White Bride's Cake 40 White Cake 27 White Drops 143 White Duchess Cake 81 White Florence Cake 80 White Fruit 41 White Fruit Slab Cake 30 White Layer 29 White Lebkuchen 149 White Layer Cakes 29 White Loaf (with Cornstarch) 28 White Mountain Cake 28 White Poundcake 42 White Stock Icing 205 White Vanilla Wafers 140 Wine Cake Mixtures 90, 92 Yeast-Raised Doughs and Pas- try 174 Fillings for 181 PAGE Yeast-Raised Doughnuts . . 192, 195 Jelly Balls 195 Pastry 174 Yeast-Raised Tea Cakes or Biscuits 198 Yellow Bowl Mixture 56 Yellow Box Cakes 30 Yellow Drop Cakes 138 Yellow Florence Cake 80 Yellow Layer Cake 91 Yellow Slab Cake 91 Zwieback Doughs 180, 186 Zwieback, Almond 187 Anise 187 Hamburg 186 Hungarian 187 Pressburg 187 Vienna 186